So glad to see this in my feed because now i know itll get popular again. it ticks so many boxes for me, simple pan and retro design, so we can concentrate more on driving skills than our mechanical skills (thats the pit crews job anyhow:) and its closer to grass roots racing where it all started, hot rodding/jalopy racing etc.
As a 50 year RC'er and 20 year hobby shop manager I think Bolink has always been one of the best cars out there. Simple, rugged, affordable and fun . On carpet or a parking lot a half dozen at one time are a blast. Pick a motor for a box stock class and go for it. So happy to see RJ Speed bring them back.
@@jbtricklerc Never left mine. I may be 75 but have refused to grow up. My kids were used to other kids coming to the door to see if their "Daddy" could come out to play.
Cool build video JB...they race these at local indoor carpet track...I've seen them but didn't know much BOUT THEM....pretty cool little car though! Thanks
I found fitting the rear height bushing parts into the chassis before assembly makes life easy because you are pushing down on the bench. Love the video.
So crazy you mentioned hobby connection in Easley, I went there for the first time ever earlier last year looking for information about RC groups/leagues/races.. Glad to have found this channel! I'm in Spartanburg, SC
When you mentioned there might be some differences between the old Bolink kit and the new one, I pulled my old chassis out of the box in my parts pile. You were correct about the rear axle hole in th chassis being just a non adjustable hole on the old chassis. Barely big enough to fit the bushing through. I also noticed where your axle is aluminum, mine appears to be stainless steel(guessing stainless due to the lack of rust after being stored outside in a shed for over a decade. One other difference that I noticed right away was the top plate spanning between the front kingpins. On my older Bolink car, you just had the bottom plate, then the steering knuckle went on with the spring followed by the clips to hold it together. Good call on switching to regular turnbuckles on the steering links. I raced mine 1 time on a carpet track. In practice my car looked fast enough to be competitive against the touring cars I was forced to race against. On the first st lap after the tone, I was already in 2nd place entering turn 2, a 90° corner at the end of a long straight, when a young kid forgot how to hit th brakes and slammed into me. Needless to say both steering collars on the links slipped messing up the alignment enough that I couldn't continue. I decided at that point I would be better for me to just call it a night, as my temper tantrum would have just ruined the fun for everyone else. Glad I'v matured in my older age enough to not take the little things so seriously now😂. Oh, I we as running a 13 turn triple Speed gems motor(I have think I was the Topaz), with a Novac Hammer Pro ESC, and 6cell ni-cad. We at too much motor for a car with no rear susp nation, but it was fun being able to nail the throttle around 50mph on a smooth street and see it instantly start doing donuts 🤣. I didn't know YOU J Speed was making these kits still, looks like I'll need to source some of their parts and get the old Bolink back together, even if it is just to use it as a shelf queen. Where is the track that you'll be racing and his at?, since I'm only about a half hour north east of Columbia. 👍
Old_and_slow I greatly appreciate your comment. That took me back to my beginning. You definitely refreshed my memories and thank you for confirming my suspicions about the updates. Yeah I plan to race this at Turn n Burn and Bump n Run. Both track are in North Carolina but worth a drive to relive my memories for sure. Thank you again.
@@jbtricklerc No problem, just thought it was easy enough to grab my old one and take a quick look to confirm your thoughts. My old car has been moved around probably 20 times in the past 2 years after unboxing it when we moved to our current house, so I knew exactly where it was.👍
The slotted rear axle hole was available on Bolink Legends before they went out. Late 80s, early 90s kits were single hole. Late 90s, early 2000s is when the slotted came into play. I think the kingpin brace and 3 piece front plate started with RJ Speed Ownership. Honestly, my age is now showing here. 😜 With the recent sale of RJ Speed to Barry Hill/MSA Distributing. I'm excited to see what's going to happen.
Wicked ways I had no idea Barry now picked up RJ Speed. That's actually exciting as I've been a Hyperdrive fane for a long time. No worries about age. I feel it too haha
Billy that's a great question. I can't recall off the top of my head. I had a few different lengths in my soar parts box. If I remember later I'll measure and reply then.
Awesome video, this helped with the late model I’m putting together. Any chance you have actual part numbers for the steering linkages,ball cups, etc. I want to pretty much copy what you did lol.
Thank you Corey, I greatly appreciate it. I'm pretty sure the ball cups I used were Custom works. The linkages I have no clue lol. I had a few spare sets in a spare parts bin that I was able to use. I had 2 or 3 different lengths and one pair just happened to be perfect. I'm pretty they were some pan car steering links I had saved.
Thank you RC Terminator. I greatly appreciate it. They are so cool! I've always loved them. Im going to catch up on your episodes over the weekend. Looks like you're having a good time.
@@jbtricklerc so far I’ve had two heat races and a B-main and things didn’t go so well but I got faster each time out had to line out the car because it was set up years ago with rubber tires so switching to foams should help plus dialing in my controller a bit better will help plus getting more lap time with it will help
@@kylekallies3381 I'm super happy to hear you are making progress. that's all it takes, time, tuning, learning and a bit of luck in traffic. Keep it up!
I can't say that I started with this. I got the rc-12 then the days of thunder r/c car it was a pan car. I ended up putting a dually speed controller by novice and the 6 turn by twister. I believe that was the manufacturer. It was the baddest made in the day. I'd like to say it would run around 75mph and was pretty unheard of. I ended up hitting a change in the pavement due to a crack in it. The front graphite of the lower pan exploded. This is when I went to get the parts to fix it and seen the bolink spec oval car racer..I bought it and a futaba mj controller T2PHKA Am 27 with electric speed control. I still have it today. Yeah you had to get flanged bearings. The were illegal to run in racing. I could have sent you the sealed flanged bearings. I have extras I changed the days of thunder car. It is 10th scale and the bolink is 12th
sounds like you had a blast as well. There was some 1/12 scale racing at Easley years ago but it eventually ended up being 1/10 only. Some of the earlier pan cars I had was an old G-Force I believe, then I went to an Associated then on to KSG and then Hyperdrive over the years. Pretty much stuck with Hyperdrive from there. I appreciate the story and comment.
It was either twisted or wicked. I know that they were on the way out because I didn't see any back after I bought that 6 turn. It tore up everything you put it in 4 tech, rustle and stampede were the 3 in-between getting into the gas cars. I still have the days of thunder car. Don't have any idea who put it out and definitely wish I had kept the body. It would catch air inside of it and flip over backwards and literally roll down the road flipping backwards. The body was like putting a shoe box on it.I ended up putting it in the 4 tech. Got tired of buying drivetrane parts the rustler,was quick to go and then the stampede was fun. I would race next to the cars riding by ripped out of the driveway basically 30 35 and just gag the throttle down and it would stand up and leave the car sitting there and people would stop to watch me playing games with the drivers. It was a blast. The street cars didn't do well with the reflectors in the road. Not even when I finally got the Nitro TC3. It was the baddest. I bought it rtr and then bought the team kit and built it. I didn't stop until it was unrecognizable. We all raced them around everyone always asked me what car I was running. Blue anodized as much as I could. Got shock towers from England and rear a arms for my Nitro rc10 gt. I put the o.s. 18 on it and it's a screamer. I did have some honest clean fun. As a young man it was super hard to make the decision to go to the sausage fest instead of the night life Tampa Bay and St.Pete have to offer the young people. I did both but not at the same time and definitely different friends. Funny how life passes before your eyes in a blink of a moment you're the Chester with the touchem cars. You are the only one who doesn't know that is what the young people think.
I put so much money into this that I will be buried or burned with my collection of 6. I put about 3k in my Tc3 And about 25 in one of my Gts. The other I left stock to be able to race at B&B hobbies on US-19 in Hudson Florida. They were the best shop I believe in the south eastern United States
Hello JB, in your opinion, what would you do about tires? Cut the stock tires with a couple of degree camber? Maybe change over to the purple/blue stripe spec tires? Your opinion and thoughts are greatly appreciated. Total newbie here.🤣
Shane, thats a great question and I do know that some do in fact cut camber into the tires though I have never done that personally. The stock Yellow stripes that I ran I actually had good luck with. But for the oval track I ran on and a few of my racing buddies did recommend the blue stripe tires as being the better tire for that application and track. I hope this helps and I greatly appreciat the support and comment.
@jbtricklerc My buddy came up with a little deal with camber in the tires. Granted with foam tires, you can cut camber in the tires. But he came up with an idea of taking a small piece of metal like a half of a E clip. Putting it underneath the kingpin nut underneath one side and it gives it a little camber. I would probably guess around 1°. I like this when I run my rubber tire setup. I suppose now that I think about it. It could also increase caster or decrease caster depending on where you put it.
I'd like to see a video on tools. As I'm only a year into the hobby, I'm still learning. I like learning as much about tools as possible. As a suggestion, what about tool boxes. I still have an automotive mind set, meaning I still think about full size automotive tool boxes and such.
Jeremiah I'll work on getting bone in the future sure enough. As far as a tool box I personally use the Stanley Fatmax. Its a stacking, extending and rolling toolbox. I got it off Walmarts website.
Really enjoyed this build! Can’t believe the simplicity of these things! Yet the fun they provide. No one in our area runs them but there is a smaller scale on road track not far I think these would be fun on. Your body is amazing! I’m getting my start in airbrushing. Curious about the Hotwheels logo… was that drawn out and cut, sprayed colors separately? Or a decal? Really looking forward to diving into all your other videos man. I’m not going to get ANYTHING done today!!! 🤣😂
Lol JFlyer I greatly I really do appreciate the support and glad you're enjoying the channel. Every body I do is all paint mask material and all done in paint. No stickers. Occasionally I may use some headlight a grill sticker but I even usually airbrush those on as well.
Kerry, I honestly cannot remember off the top of my head. I had two or three different lengths in my spare parts bin. I robbed them from there lol. I can try to measure them when I get a chance. I believe the ball cups were just their standard long ball cups. That way you can cut them down if necessary.
I have another question for you. Any tips on securing the front axles in the steering block? I’m having an issue with them spinning while trying to install the wheel nuts. I’ve tried gorilla epoxy and that’s not working.
Great question. I can't recall but if there is a flange to keep it from pulling through the steering block, there's no need to worry about them spinning as long as you're using a locking nut. However, it it's keeping you from installing the nut there's a couple things you can do. One is drill a small hole and use a small set screw to help hold them in place or wrap needle nose pliers in electrical tape and hold the axle it threads while you tighten em down. If theere is play you may need to add some shims on the front as well.
Where did you get you steering links I want to switch mine over to this I do not like the steering setup and the little lock collars .. if you could send me in the right direction as what to look for that would be awesome
I greatly appreciate the comment and support. Honestly, I cannot remember the exact part numbers I used as they were some extra steering links I had in my pan car parts box. However, you can find them on Muddslide Motorsports website. I had three sets of spares, short medium and long in my box. If I remember correctly, I used the medium or long lengths. They sell different length options. with the proper ball end caps, you should be able to take up or lengthen if necessary. I hope this is helpful and thank you again. www.muddslidemotorsports.com/nsearch.html?#search/q=turnbuckles&sortby=rel&main_category=&page=1&size=15&storeid=yhst-26560558224094/1
Very nice. I have a pro mod I need to finish. Having problems with steering and back motor mount. I cant get the rear axle right its to tight or to loose to where its crazy movement
As far as the rear axle carriers, what I did with my car is. I made sure that the carriers were not super loose but not super tight. And then I used shoe glued them in. With shoe go, it's not a permanent fix. If you need to change the right height, you can peel it out. Do you only problem is? You have to let the shoe guru dry if you have to change them. What was my car once? I found the right ride height, I never changed the spacers after that.
what electronics do you use ... sorry if this has been asked .. i built a car but have no clue what esc,servo receiver, battery to use .. ive been told i need a single cell ecs and 2 channel receiver for our local track
Donald great question. Electronics need to be within the class rules at your local track. So to be sure you purchase the correct motor, ESC and battery I'd visit your track and talk to the race director and other racers to determine which ESC,Motor and battery to run that way you know it's right. That way you could avoid the possibility of purchasing the wrong or illegal parts. As far as servo I used a Futaba 9650 which I also run in my pan cars. I've used these servos with success for many years. Regarding the receiver it depends on which radio system you're using brand and such. In my build featured in this episode I used a Hobbywing Justocks ESC and 21.5 motor with a 2S 6000 mah shorty battery. The ESC and battery I used is 2S not single cell like you were told you needed. Hopefully this helps and best of luck to you in your RC racing adventures.
Excellent video! What spec are the bearings? I looked up part number P167875 but it doesn't exist. Please let me know what size bearings will fit, thank you.
Thanks, I greatly appreciate it. I cannot recall the exact sizes as its been a while but I'm pretty sure. However, I recommend a bearing kit or you can use the bearings called out in these kits as a reference. Bocca offers several versions. you can check them out here. www.bocabearings.com/parts/Legend-Kit
Great video and should help me build my Sportsman this week. I want to do the same turnbuckles in the front and I like the servo mounting idea. I do have a question, I know it's not one of your builds but I really liked that Mustang at the end. Any info on it? I'm guessing it is on a short course chassis but I would love to know more about it if possible.
Josh, thank you for the comment and support. I greatly appreciate it. Glad you found the video helpful. It was all super easy to do and I do feel beneficial as well. Feel free to send some pictures when you complete yours as well.
Hey Josh the Mustang was either a Touring car or a drag car. I had a 1968 mustang for both. Both bodies made by Proline Racing. One was on my X-ray that I had for Touring and the other was on a short course based drag car.
Super nice build! What part # was the bearings? And maybe a stupid question but what prevents them from walking inward on the axle as if I’m not mistaken the bushings had a collar. 👍👍
Hey Marcus, Thats correct, the bushing have collars on them to the inside. so when you slide the axle and hubs in the collars and hubs keep the bearings in place. I unfortunately cannot recall the part number to the bearings. If I'm able to find the bag they came in I'll share them here on the post. I found them just googling online and it was a bearing store I've used before.
@@marcuscrammer4317 awesome! It's funny you say that. After my reply I thought "hey, didn't I show the package and number in the video" 🤣 glad you found it all.
www.bocabearings.com/search?p=Q&lbc=bocabearings&uid=618971161&ts=custom&w=Bolink%20legend&isort=score&method=and&view=list&cnt=12&af=model:legend Here's a link for a few options. I can't recall exactly which set I used. There are also other bearing options available as well from other manufacturers from eBay to other bearing stores. Hopefully this helps.
I’ve had a legend car for approx. 3 years and I’ve never had a chance to set it up. My question is how do u set up your transmitter to control your speed?
Shane, great question. The answer can be a bit tricky as it depends on the transmitter that you are using. If you are using a stock style or RTR style transmitter, many of those do not give you the tunability that a mid-range to higher end "racing" transmitters will offer. For example, in my Futaba transmitters (4PM or 7PXR) or nearly any other "race" transmitter, it gives you the ability to adjust the end points of the speed, so I could dial it down to not run a lap faster than say 8 seconds (If I can run a consistent lap). For example the normal end point output is set at 100%, I can turn it down to say 82% which would limit the speed for the 8 second lap I'm looking for (you would have to play with that percentage to figure out the time you are looking for). The various radio manufacturers may call this end point different things, so the manual comes in very handy. As mentioned earlier, many if not most stock style RTR Transmitters do not have this option some do. Then you are left with having to find a gear that limits the speed. I hope you find this helpful and I greatly appreciate the comment and support.
Meramack I'd recommend the CRC tires all the way for rubber tires on a car like this. I believe the yellow stripe and purple stripe foams are still most common generally from my understanding though. But when I go I'm taking the foams and CRC tires with me.
@@gfyracing7632 great question but I'm not sure. I know CRC has two rubber tire sets. Once for the F1 car which is hex drive (or pin drive) and the other set is for pan cars. Take note of that before you purchase or order. They are comparable in size to the standard legend and pan car wheels and tires. I haven't mounted my CRC tires on yet to look but figure they will fit since they run pan car wheels and tires.
Great question. I know some tracks do it as I've seen in facebook. I wouldn't know personally. But if it's a smooth track I imagine they would be fun. I may give it a try one day.
@@bigguyrc9788 I hear ya. I've always been a fan of them and super happy I decided to build one again. I can't wait to get up to turn and burn again to race it.
@@bigguyrc9788 I hear ya there. Reach out to Thunder Alley RC track. I believe it's there I've seen them running some Legends cars on the dirt oval. If you can talk with someone that's done it it would get you better feedback.
Love this video one question I have is do you think have such little suspension helps or hurts the car as far a speed goes? Compared to the newer style pan cars
The thing about legend cars are they are built limited. Not much you can do. The secret is to loosen the side panels. A half a turn off can allow them to flex on the cross shafts and add a bit of "suspension". But otherwise you're limited to what you got. But... Everyone is the same way.
@@jbtricklerc legends cars are a lot more adjustable than you think. Granted, they're not a pan car by any means. Also, I want to share some tips with you. Also, that I learned on my car. One tip is to use an old axle chuck it in a drill. Use the spline side and use it as a reamer to open up the kingpin hole. I mentioned this in other post about opening up the rear hole for the right heights and then shoe gluing them in. Make sure if they are straight before the glue set up. I tried the rear axle set up. That comes stock with the car but I could not get it to work like you did originally so I gave up on the deal and I put a pan car set up in it. Best thing i ever did. It could be because my car was used and maybe it was missing parts I don't know. I just thought of one other thing. I don't think you mentioned it or not, but did you glue the diff rings to the axle and the hub? I know that's an old pancar thing. And I would liked to have seen something on how you mounted the battery in the car. Either by tape or double side, the tape or some kind of fancy hold down. Oh ok, I'll get off my shop box now. I like your videos keep up the good work. :)
@@1dirtovalracer I greatly appreciate the tips and you shared some great info as well. thank you for sharing. I never glued the diff rings before but I do know of people that have. Thank you for the support! Much appreciated.
That's one I never worked on. The only Bolink/RJ Speed cars I ever owned were the Legends cars. The Pan cars I had and ran were old G-Force, KSG or Hyper Drive.
@JBTrickleRC for the money u can't beat the lto is a awesome car for 5.0 break out I'm just trying to figure out the wheel hop in the rear when u corner
So glad to see this in my feed because now i know itll get popular again. it ticks so many boxes for me, simple pan and retro design, so we can concentrate more on driving skills than our mechanical skills (thats the pit crews job anyhow:) and its closer to grass roots racing where it all started, hot rodding/jalopy racing etc.
Thank you for the support and comment MonstroLab. I agree and its definitely a very nostalgic feeling for me. Brings awesome memories and smiles.
I couldn’t agree more I’m trying to get one going now
As a 50 year RC'er and 20 year hobby shop manager I think Bolink has always been one of the best cars out there. Simple, rugged, affordable and fun . On carpet or a parking lot a half dozen at one time are a blast. Pick a motor for a box stock class and go for it. So happy to see RJ Speed bring them back.
I agree and happy to relive my childhood along with it.
@@jbtricklerc Never left mine. I may be 75 but have refused to grow up. My kids were used to other kids coming to the door to see if their "Daddy" could come out to play.
@@alangeddes268 that's awesome! Good way to be and let the good times roll!
Been so looking forward to this and these cars in particular
Thank you BC it was a fun project and I cant wait to get out and run some laps with it as well.
@@jbtricklerc oh, and those e-clips are referred to as Jesus clips, lol
@@BC-rc that's probably the best reference I've ever heard lol
Cool build video JB...they race these at local indoor carpet track...I've seen them but didn't know much BOUT THEM....pretty cool little car though! Thanks
Thank you Modfather! I greatly appreciate it! I'm looking forward to running this again for sure.
I found fitting the rear height bushing parts into the chassis before assembly makes life easy because you are pushing down on the bench. Love the video.
I greatly appreciate the support and comment. Great tip as well.
So crazy you mentioned hobby connection in Easley, I went there for the first time ever earlier last year looking for information about RC groups/leagues/races.. Glad to have found this channel! I'm in Spartanburg, SC
That's awesome to hear and I greatly appreciate the comment and support
I'm in Augusta a little over a hour from you maybe we can get the old cars out and put them about 25mph in the wind
Those look like fun to build
It really was. Super simple build even with my updates I did. I appreciate the support and comment
When you mentioned there might be some differences between the old Bolink kit and the new one, I pulled my old chassis out of the box in my parts pile. You were correct about the rear axle hole in th chassis being just a non adjustable hole on the old chassis. Barely big enough to fit the bushing through. I also noticed where your axle is aluminum, mine appears to be stainless steel(guessing stainless due to the lack of rust after being stored outside in a shed for over a decade. One other difference that I noticed right away was the top plate spanning between the front kingpins. On my older Bolink car, you just had the bottom plate, then the steering knuckle went on with the spring followed by the clips to hold it together. Good call on switching to regular turnbuckles on the steering links. I raced mine 1 time on a carpet track. In practice my car looked fast enough to be competitive against the touring cars I was forced to race against. On the first st lap after the tone, I was already in 2nd place entering turn 2, a 90° corner at the end of a long straight, when a young kid forgot how to hit th brakes and slammed into me. Needless to say both steering collars on the links slipped messing up the alignment enough that I couldn't continue. I decided at that point I would be better for me to just call it a night, as my temper tantrum would have just ruined the fun for everyone else. Glad I'v matured in my older age enough to not take the little things so seriously now😂. Oh, I we as running a 13 turn triple Speed gems motor(I have think I was the Topaz), with a Novac Hammer Pro ESC, and 6cell ni-cad. We at too much motor for a car with no rear susp nation, but it was fun being able to nail the throttle around 50mph on a smooth street and see it instantly start doing donuts 🤣. I didn't know YOU J Speed was making these kits still, looks like I'll need to source some of their parts and get the old Bolink back together, even if it is just to use it as a shelf queen. Where is the track that you'll be racing and his at?, since I'm only about a half hour north east of Columbia. 👍
Old_and_slow I greatly appreciate your comment. That took me back to my beginning. You definitely refreshed my memories and thank you for confirming my suspicions about the updates. Yeah I plan to race this at Turn n Burn and Bump n Run. Both track are in North Carolina but worth a drive to relive my memories for sure. Thank you again.
@@jbtricklerc No problem, just thought it was easy enough to grab my old one and take a quick look to confirm your thoughts. My old car has been moved around probably 20 times in the past 2 years after unboxing it when we moved to our current house, so I knew exactly where it was.👍
@@old_and_slow5471 awesome. I really do appreciate it. Happy to see some interest in others after this upload as well
The rear chassis hole is perfect size for the bushings because their not supposed to spin just the axel. The flanged bearings are the way to go.
The slotted rear axle hole was available on Bolink Legends before they went out. Late 80s, early 90s kits were single hole. Late 90s, early 2000s is when the slotted came into play. I think the kingpin brace and 3 piece front plate started with RJ Speed Ownership. Honestly, my age is now showing here. 😜
With the recent sale of RJ Speed to Barry Hill/MSA Distributing. I'm excited to see what's going to happen.
Wicked ways I had no idea Barry now picked up RJ Speed. That's actually exciting as I've been a Hyperdrive fane for a long time. No worries about age. I feel it too haha
What size turn buckles did u use
Billy that's a great question. I can't recall off the top of my head. I had a few different lengths in my soar parts box. If I remember later I'll measure and reply then.
@jbtricklerc ok thanks I'm building a brake out legend and those steering rod wire pieces that come with it breake so easy
Awesome video, this helped with the late model I’m putting together. Any chance you have actual part numbers for the steering linkages,ball cups, etc. I want to pretty much copy what you did lol.
Thank you Corey, I greatly appreciate it. I'm pretty sure the ball cups I used were Custom works. The linkages I have no clue lol. I had a few spare sets in a spare parts bin that I was able to use. I had 2 or 3 different lengths and one pair just happened to be perfect. I'm pretty they were some pan car steering links I had saved.
Awesome brother I have been looking at these from my hobby store for some time definitely a cool video thanks for the share
Thank you RC Terminator. I greatly appreciate it. They are so cool! I've always loved them. Im going to catch up on your episodes over the weekend. Looks like you're having a good time.
@@jbtricklerc yes sir buddy had a blast wish you where able to make it but I understand we must get together soon
I've been eyeballing this brand on eBay 👍 also I'm picking up a late model from the American rc track in one of the last video you posted!
Jeremiah that's awesome to hear! Best of luck you you as well
I finally got an old bolink legend car
Thats awesome to hear! I hope you have a blast with it and best of luck in your RC adventures. Thank you for the comment.
@@jbtricklerc so far I’ve had two heat races and a B-main and things didn’t go so well but I got faster each time out had to line out the car because it was set up years ago with rubber tires so switching to foams should help plus dialing in my controller a bit better will help plus getting more lap time with it will help
@@kylekallies3381 I'm super happy to hear you are making progress. that's all it takes, time, tuning, learning and a bit of luck in traffic. Keep it up!
I can't say that I started with this. I got the rc-12 then the days of thunder r/c car it was a pan car. I ended up putting a dually speed controller by novice and the 6 turn by twister. I believe that was the manufacturer. It was the baddest made in the day. I'd like to say it would run around 75mph and was pretty unheard of. I ended up hitting a change in the pavement due to a crack in it. The front graphite of the lower pan exploded. This is when I went to get the parts to fix it and seen the bolink spec oval car racer..I bought it and a futaba mj controller T2PHKA Am 27 with electric speed control. I still have it today. Yeah you had to get flanged bearings. The were illegal to run in racing. I could have sent you the sealed flanged bearings. I have extras I changed the days of thunder car. It is 10th scale and the bolink is 12th
sounds like you had a blast as well. There was some 1/12 scale racing at Easley years ago but it eventually ended up being 1/10 only. Some of the earlier pan cars I had was an old G-Force I believe, then I went to an Associated then on to KSG and then Hyperdrive over the years. Pretty much stuck with Hyperdrive from there. I appreciate the story and comment.
It was either twisted or wicked. I know that they were on the way out because I didn't see any back after I bought that 6 turn. It tore up everything you put it in 4 tech, rustle and stampede were the 3 in-between getting into the gas cars. I still have the days of thunder car. Don't have any idea who put it out and definitely wish I had kept the body. It would catch air inside of it and flip over backwards and literally roll down the road flipping backwards. The body was like putting a shoe box on it.I ended up putting it in the 4 tech. Got tired of buying drivetrane parts the rustler,was quick to go and then the stampede was fun. I would race next to the cars riding by ripped out of the driveway basically 30 35 and just gag the throttle down and it would stand up and leave the car sitting there and people would stop to watch me playing games with the drivers. It was a blast. The street cars didn't do well with the reflectors in the road. Not even when I finally got the Nitro TC3. It was the baddest. I bought it rtr and then bought the team kit and built it. I didn't stop until it was unrecognizable. We all raced them around everyone always asked me what car I was running. Blue anodized as much as I could. Got shock towers from England and rear a arms for my Nitro rc10 gt. I put the o.s. 18 on it and it's a screamer. I did have some honest clean fun. As a young man it was super hard to make the decision to go to the sausage fest instead of the night life Tampa Bay and St.Pete have to offer the young people. I did both but not at the same time and definitely different friends. Funny how life passes before your eyes in a blink of a moment you're the Chester with the touchem cars. You are the only one who doesn't know that is what the young people think.
I put so much money into this that I will be buried or burned with my collection of 6. I put about 3k in my Tc3 And about 25 in one of my Gts. The other I left stock to be able to race at B&B hobbies on US-19 in Hudson Florida. They were the best shop I believe in the south eastern United States
🔥💯💪🏾
Thank you Coach! hope you've been doing well! By the way. That new Firebird is literal fire! Love it!
Hello JB, in your opinion, what would you do about tires? Cut the stock tires with a couple of degree camber? Maybe change over to the purple/blue stripe spec tires? Your opinion and thoughts are greatly appreciated. Total newbie here.🤣
Shane, thats a great question and I do know that some do in fact cut camber into the tires though I have never done that personally. The stock Yellow stripes that I ran I actually had good luck with. But for the oval track I ran on and a few of my racing buddies did recommend the blue stripe tires as being the better tire for that application and track. I hope this helps and I greatly appreciat the support and comment.
@jbtricklerc My buddy came up with a little deal with camber in the tires. Granted with foam tires, you can cut camber in the tires. But he came up with an idea of taking a small piece of metal like a half of a E clip. Putting it underneath the kingpin nut underneath one side and it gives it a little camber. I would probably guess around 1°. I like this when I run my rubber tire setup. I suppose now that I think about it. It could also increase caster or decrease caster depending on where you put it.
I'd like to see a video on tools. As I'm only a year into the hobby, I'm still learning. I like learning as much about tools as possible. As a suggestion, what about tool boxes. I still have an automotive mind set, meaning I still think about full size automotive tool boxes and such.
Jeremiah I'll work on getting bone in the future sure enough. As far as a tool box I personally use the Stanley Fatmax. Its a stacking, extending and rolling toolbox. I got it off Walmarts website.
@@jbtricklerc awesome, thanks for the tip 👍 I hope to see you at the track this year!
@@Storyracing387 anytime. Happy to help when I can. And same here.
Really enjoyed this build! Can’t believe the simplicity of these things! Yet the fun they provide. No one in our area runs them but there is a smaller scale on road track not far I think these would be fun on.
Your body is amazing! I’m getting my start in airbrushing. Curious about the Hotwheels logo… was that drawn out and cut, sprayed colors separately? Or a decal?
Really looking forward to diving into all your other videos man. I’m not going to get ANYTHING done today!!! 🤣😂
Lol JFlyer I greatly I really do appreciate the support and glad you're enjoying the channel. Every body I do is all paint mask material and all done in paint. No stickers. Occasionally I may use some headlight a grill sticker but I even usually airbrush those on as well.
@@jbtricklerc gotcha! Thanks for the info! I’m now dying to take a Legends car to the local inroad track. Will see how this goes.
@@JFlyer1973 anytime. Have a blast and thank you again for the support and comments.
what length of the custom works steering turnbuckles and ball cups please
Kerry, I honestly cannot remember off the top of my head. I had two or three different lengths in my spare parts bin. I robbed them from there lol. I can try to measure them when I get a chance. I believe the ball cups were just their standard long ball cups. That way you can cut them down if necessary.
I have another question for you. Any tips on securing the front axles in the steering block? I’m having an issue with them spinning while trying to install the wheel nuts. I’ve tried gorilla epoxy and that’s not working.
Great question. I can't recall but if there is a flange to keep it from pulling through the steering block, there's no need to worry about them spinning as long as you're using a locking nut. However, it it's keeping you from installing the nut there's a couple things you can do. One is drill a small hole and use a small set screw to help hold them in place or wrap needle nose pliers in electrical tape and hold the axle it threads while you tighten em down. If theere is play you may need to add some shims on the front as well.
Where did you get you steering links I want to switch mine over to this I do not like the steering setup and the little lock collars .. if you could send me in the right direction as what to look for that would be awesome
I greatly appreciate the comment and support. Honestly, I cannot remember the exact part numbers I used as they were some extra steering links I had in my pan car parts box. However, you can find them on Muddslide Motorsports website. I had three sets of spares, short medium and long in my box. If I remember correctly, I used the medium or long lengths. They sell different length options. with the proper ball end caps, you should be able to take up or lengthen if necessary. I hope this is helpful and thank you again.
www.muddslidemotorsports.com/nsearch.html?#search/q=turnbuckles&sortby=rel&main_category=&page=1&size=15&storeid=yhst-26560558224094/1
Very nice. I have a pro mod I need to finish. Having problems with steering and back motor mount. I cant get the rear axle right its to tight or to loose to where its crazy movement
I appreciate the comment and support RC_Casey. I hope you get the problems solved with your and get it up and running again.
@@jbtricklerc Thank you
@@cows1990 anytime. Hope you've gotten the bugs worked out. If not reach out to me on Facebook and I'll do my best to help.
@@jbtricklerc cool.
As far as the rear axle carriers, what I did with my car is. I made sure that the carriers were not super loose but not super tight. And then I used shoe glued them in. With shoe go, it's not a permanent fix. If you need to change the right height, you can peel it out. Do you only problem is? You have to let the shoe guru dry if you have to change them. What was my car once? I found the right ride height, I never changed the spacers after that.
what electronics do you use ... sorry if this has been asked .. i built a car but have no clue what esc,servo receiver, battery to use .. ive been told i need a single cell ecs and 2 channel receiver for our local track
Donald great question. Electronics need to be within the class rules at your local track. So to be sure you purchase the correct motor, ESC and battery I'd visit your track and talk to the race director and other racers to determine which ESC,Motor and battery to run that way you know it's right. That way you could avoid the possibility of purchasing the wrong or illegal parts.
As far as servo I used a Futaba 9650 which I also run in my pan cars. I've used these servos with success for many years. Regarding the receiver it depends on which radio system you're using brand and such.
In my build featured in this episode I used a Hobbywing Justocks ESC and 21.5 motor with a 2S 6000 mah shorty battery. The ESC and battery I used is 2S not single cell like you were told you needed.
Hopefully this helps and best of luck to you in your RC racing adventures.
Excellent video! What spec are the bearings? I looked up part number P167875 but it doesn't exist. Please let me know what size bearings will fit, thank you.
Thanks, I greatly appreciate it. I cannot recall the exact sizes as its been a while but I'm pretty sure. However, I recommend a bearing kit or you can use the bearings called out in these kits as a reference. Bocca offers several versions. you can check them out here.
www.bocabearings.com/parts/Legend-Kit
@@jbtricklerc This is great! Thank you for the info!
@@Toy_and_Prop_Masters No problem. I'm happy to help when I can.
Great video and should help me build my Sportsman this week. I want to do the same turnbuckles in the front and I like the servo mounting idea.
I do have a question, I know it's not one of your builds but I really liked that Mustang at the end. Any info on it? I'm guessing it is on a short course chassis but I would love to know more about it if possible.
Josh, thank you for the comment and support. I greatly appreciate it. Glad you found the video helpful. It was all super easy to do and I do feel beneficial as well. Feel free to send some pictures when you complete yours as well.
Hey Josh the Mustang was either a Touring car or a drag car. I had a 1968 mustang for both. Both bodies made by Proline Racing. One was on my X-ray that I had for Touring and the other was on a short course based drag car.
Super nice build! What part # was the bearings? And maybe a stupid question but what prevents them from walking inward on the axle as if I’m not mistaken the bushings had a collar. 👍👍
Hey Marcus, Thats correct, the bushing have collars on them to the inside. so when you slide the axle and hubs in the collars and hubs keep the bearings in place. I unfortunately cannot recall the part number to the bearings. If I'm able to find the bag they came in I'll share them here on the post. I found them just googling online and it was a bearing store I've used before.
Cool! Thank you so much for responding!
I actually managed to take a screen shop of when you’re holding the bag, boca bearings 12-005us 😅
@@marcuscrammer4317 awesome! It's funny you say that. After my reply I thought "hey, didn't I show the package and number in the video" 🤣 glad you found it all.
What is the part number for the bearings you put in instead of bushings. Thanks
www.bocabearings.com/search?p=Q&lbc=bocabearings&uid=618971161&ts=custom&w=Bolink%20legend&isort=score&method=and&view=list&cnt=12&af=model:legend
Here's a link for a few options. I can't recall exactly which set I used. There are also other bearing options available as well from other manufacturers from eBay to other bearing stores. Hopefully this helps.
Thank you. Just got my legends car and can't wait to build it.
@@aaronbaldassi342 no problem. I'm happy to help when I can
I’ve had a legend car for approx. 3 years and I’ve never had a chance to set it up. My question is how do u set up your transmitter to control your speed?
Shane, great question. The answer can be a bit tricky as it depends on the transmitter that you are using. If you are using a stock style or RTR style transmitter, many of those do not give you the tunability that a mid-range to higher end "racing" transmitters will offer. For example, in my Futaba transmitters (4PM or 7PXR) or nearly any other "race" transmitter, it gives you the ability to adjust the end points of the speed, so I could dial it down to not run a lap faster than say 8 seconds (If I can run a consistent lap). For example the normal end point output is set at 100%, I can turn it down to say 82% which would limit the speed for the 8 second lap I'm looking for (you would have to play with that percentage to figure out the time you are looking for). The various radio manufacturers may call this end point different things, so the manual comes in very handy. As mentioned earlier, many if not most stock style RTR Transmitters do not have this option some do. Then you are left with having to find a gear that limits the speed. I hope you find this helpful and I greatly appreciate the comment and support.
Just got an email these are on sale at tower, I was always curious about these
They are a blast! I love mine and hope to get to race it again soon
I have an old Bolink Legend. If I wanted to run rubber tires on a carpet oval, what ones would you suggest?
Meramack I'd recommend the CRC tires all the way for rubber tires on a car like this. I believe the yellow stripe and purple stripe foams are still most common generally from my understanding though. But when I go I'm taking the foams and CRC tires with me.
@@jbtricklerc what size would those be? I haven't raced my legend 2005 and had almost forgotten I even had it until you made this video.
@@gfyracing7632 great question but I'm not sure. I know CRC has two rubber tire sets. Once for the F1 car which is hex drive (or pin drive) and the other set is for pan cars. Take note of that before you purchase or order. They are comparable in size to the standard legend and pan car wheels and tires. I haven't mounted my CRC tires on yet to look but figure they will fit since they run pan car wheels and tires.
The CRC rubber tires bolt on just like foam tires. They're basically plug and play. Although, you may have to play around with your ride heights.
How would these do on a dirt oval?
Great question. I know some tracks do it as I've seen in facebook. I wouldn't know personally. But if it's a smooth track I imagine they would be fun. I may give it a try one day.
@@jbtricklerc Thanks. I've been wanting a cheap way of getting some racing in and thought these would look cool and be fun.
@@bigguyrc9788 I hear ya. I've always been a fan of them and super happy I decided to build one again. I can't wait to get up to turn and burn again to race it.
@@jbtricklerc I'm 10 minutes from Mobile Hobbies and think that would be a fun breakout car, so I thought I would get your opinion.
@@bigguyrc9788 I hear ya there. Reach out to Thunder Alley RC track. I believe it's there I've seen them running some Legends cars on the dirt oval. If you can talk with someone that's done it it would get you better feedback.
Love this video one question I have is do you think have such little suspension helps or hurts the car as far a speed goes? Compared to the newer style pan cars
The thing about legend cars are they are built limited. Not much you can do. The secret is to loosen the side panels. A half a turn off can allow them to flex on the cross shafts and add a bit of "suspension". But otherwise you're limited to what you got. But... Everyone is the same way.
@@jbtricklerc legends cars are a lot more adjustable than you think. Granted, they're not a pan car by any means. Also, I want to share some tips with you. Also, that I learned on my car. One tip is to use an old axle chuck it in a drill. Use the spline side and use it as a reamer to open up the kingpin hole. I mentioned this in other post about opening up the rear hole for the right heights and then shoe gluing them in. Make sure if they are straight before the glue set up.
I tried the rear axle set up. That comes stock with the car but I could not get it to work like you did originally so I gave up on the deal and I put a pan car set up in it. Best thing i ever did. It could be because my car was used and maybe it was missing parts I don't know.
I just thought of one other thing. I don't think you mentioned it or not, but did you glue the diff rings to the axle and the hub? I know that's an old pancar thing.
And I would liked to have seen something on how you mounted the battery in the car. Either by tape or double side, the tape or some kind of fancy hold down.
Oh ok, I'll get off my shop box now. I like your videos keep up the good work. :)
I think the suspense is fine. As long. You're not using it as an offroad vehicle. :)
@@1dirtovalracer I greatly appreciate the tips and you shared some great info as well. thank you for sharing. I never glued the diff rings before but I do know of people that have. Thank you for the support! Much appreciated.
@@1dirtovalracer The limitation is definitely part of the fun no doubt lol. Part of the old school charm for sure.
Have u ever built a rj speed lto pan car
That's one I never worked on. The only Bolink/RJ Speed cars I ever owned were the Legends cars. The Pan cars I had and ran were old G-Force, KSG or Hyper Drive.
@JBTrickleRC for the money u can't beat the lto is a awesome car for 5.0 break out I'm just trying to figure out the wheel hop in the rear when u corner
Once u go hobby u don't go back lol👋✌