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Every few races. The hard part is figuring out how many few actually means as it can vary from person to person. I'd check it every other race until you determine when it actually looks to need it. then you'll know about how often you should. Best of luck to you in all your RC racing!

I really appreciate the support and kind words. Thats always been the goal of the channel is to help out newer racers with the information they need to get rolling. Thank you again and best of luck to you in all your RC racing adventures!

Great question. Any of the options you mentioned would be acceptable alternatives. Sometimes, I do alternate batteries. Sometimes I just rerun the same pack (club races or experimenting is what I usually did). At one time, I had my batteries labeled saving the better batteries for the Mains or big races. Most tracks now also have a Lipo bag rule. In other words, I wouldn't be allowed to charge the battery in the car like that anymore and must be placed inside of a fireproof lipo safe bag. Which is a good rule to have for fire safety reasons.

Thank you for the support and comment! I greatly appreciate it!

I greatly appreciate it! I've had a few people reach out as well. Thank you!

@@JohnWisenbaker I greatly appreciate the kind words and happy to know it's still helping people. Welcome back to the hobby!

@@GarryParsons-t3h www.undercoverrc.com/drag-chassis Give that link a try. They may offer a more recent version as well. I greatly appreciate the kind words and support!

Great question! The truth be told is all final adjustments will have to be made at the track. The surface you race on is the only surface that final tuning will truly matter. Benchtop setup and outside driveway or parking lot tuning is needed, it will help you adjust the diff and all the necessary trims. But even then final tuning will be necessary on your race track. As far as the spinning off the start goes, that can be tuned with the diff and or throttle input if your transmitter allows that kind of tuning. Sometimes I'd adjust the throttle curve so it took longer to reach full throttle which helps with off the line spinning. You're heading in the right direction. Just be prepared to make adjustments at the track as well to get it fully ready. Dont be afraid to talk with experienced racers there. Most will be happy to help you get it dialed in as well. Thank you for the comment and best of luck to you! Have fun and take each race day as a lesson and take notes.

@@jbtricklerc thanks for all the good info. The diff was really tight couple guys helped and adjusted it and ran great.

@@wildcardjoker Thats awesome news! Glad you got some help and got it running well! Best of luck to you and I hope you have a blast. Thank you for the support!

I greatly appreciate the kind words and support! I got burned out, racing every weekend and editing videos 3 nights a week was a lot of work on top of working a full time job and being a family man. I plan to return in the future to some capacity, just haven't decided how or when yet lol. But I really truly appreciate the comment and support! It means a lot.

It depends on what you want to do and the setup you are looking for. Since we run internal shock limiters and custom works big bore spring kits (as mentioned and shown in the video), keeping the bump stop would affect the overall shock length of travel and minimize it further which is not wanted for this particular setup. If you want to keep the bump stop and also use the shock setup with limiters as mentioned in the video. I would recommend cutting them to be shorter so your shock can have more travel as the limiters take some of that away. There is always more than one way to do it, I'm just sharing my experience and a tested and proven method for our area of racing. I appreciate the comment and wish you the absolute best in all your RC racing adventures.

@@jbtricklerc yea for sure I definitely see what your talking about I was kinda being over dramatic because how much dirt late models at least in woo and Lucas oil rely on bump stops

I greatly appreciate the support and comment!

Unfortunately, I do not. We do not have any Slash 4x4 classes locally. However, if you look up my "converting a slash to dirt oval" video, A lot of what I do in that video would likely transfer and would be worth a try. If you do, update me and let me know how it works out! I appreciate the support and comment! Best of luck in all your RC racing adventures!

@@jbtricklerc Thanks I am looking at it now.

It is mostly. The rules that we run only allowed an aftermarket steering servo and bandito racing tires and wheels and aftermarket shock springs on stock shocks. I have a slash build on the channel as well where I convert one to a dirt oval car and talk about the springs and internal shock limiters. It may be worth checking out as well. Thank you!

I greatly appreciate the positive feedback! Thank you for the support! it really means a lot!

For the Diff, for sure. In regard to the rear arm... It may be too aggressive. Although some pan cars do run an aggressive rear pod setup that acts similar. It may be worth trying, but be prepared to change it back if its too aggressive. Best of luck to you! Thank you for the comment

I can do my best. What specifically are you looking for? you can reach out on facebook or my email as well.

@@jbtricklerc send me your email please

No problem, I'm happy to help when I can.

I'm pretty sure I was running 30 wt oil in all four.

Thanks a lot

@@acdfus No problem. I'm happy to help when I can.

The Chassis in this video I believe was the GFRP Havoc DD 3.2. I later ran a GFRP Havoc DD 2019 or 2020 version. The 3.2 was only a few years older. Very similar in design with updated features.

@@jbtricklerc Thanks a lot

Thats awesome to hear! I hope you have a blast there and enjoying your new home. All is well here. Thank you, I'm trying to decide how and what I want to return with. Just haven't decided yet.

@jbtricklerc all good sir! As soon as I get the rest of my stuff and get back to the track, I'll start doing some more videos too 👍

I would personally paint it first. However, you will need to let the body sit and cure after painting for a few days before using the shoe-goo. If you do it too soon it could react and smear the paint.

@jbtricklerc thank you and will do thanks to you

Thats a good question. E6000 is another similar product though I'm unsure of its availability out of the US.

Kerry, I honestly cannot remember off the top of my head. I had two or three different lengths in my spare parts bin. I robbed them from there lol. I can try to measure them when I get a chance. I believe the ball cups were just their standard long ball cups. That way you can cut them down if necessary.

I definitely miss faskolor by Parma. I never had any issues with that brand and they offered so many more color options.

They offer a few variations. As long as its for a 1/10 dirt oval foam tire it should work. I cannot remember the exact version I was using. But the link here shows one that would work. Currently out of stock, but I'm sure it can be found elswhere. www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4168

Absolutely, it was once a very popular class and had many racers in it. The car you speak of is always fast and consistent. Great driver.

Happy to help when I can!

Thanks, I appreciate it!

No problem at all. That is what the channel is for, helping newer racers! Thank you for the comment and support!

Its pretty much the same here. They did have a class for these cars specifically for a while and they do allow them in the breakout class as well. They just didn't take off like some thought they would. At least not locally for us.

Thank you I greatly appreciate it! Lol

Great question. It really depends on how big it is. I have repaired some holes using the rock shield I talked about in this video. Putting a layer on the outside and inside of the body to cover it. I've done that If I had to move body post holes a few times actually.

Great video

Dasizniz, the RC world can be extremely similar to actual cars and yet different in certain areas as well. For example, a purpose built RC Oval car will typically be setup with camber very similar to a real car. The Traxxas Slash cars can differ because you are restricted to the stock parts in most cases and not designed for this purpose. This causes some creative experimenting. So I basically setup my slash camber to even wear pattern and tune it into that. A Custom Works or GFRP purpose built car I'll usually put 1.5 to 2 degrees camber all the way around Left side positive and right side negative. So it really depends on car, class and type of racing.

Thanks for the info. I started last year and got a TLR 22 5.0 and made huge gains from the beginning of the year to the end. Just now trying to fine-tune some things like camber, ride height, and mess around with spring rate a little bit more

@@Dasizniz Awesome to hear and it sounds like you are on the right track! Keep it up and best of luck in all your RC adventures! Thank you for the support and comment.

Great question and I believe this is going to be addressed more soon, if not already by a lot of tracks that race these cars. The Brushless versions are becoming more popular and in higher numbers. Typically, a brushed and brushless slash car wont be raced together unless its a breakout class. so for say Super Street or super Stock, they will want to keep the electronics the same across the class. There is a possibility that they will go to the stock VxL setup in the future. Or they may keep the hobbywing 13.5 setup in it. Typically thats been the case, but I've seen a lot of interest in the VXL being used.

Thanks, I greatly appreciate it. I cannot recall the exact sizes as its been a while but I'm pretty sure. However, I recommend a bearing kit or you can use the bearings called out in these kits as a reference. Bocca offers several versions. you can check them out here. www.bocabearings.com/parts/Legend-Kit

@@jbtricklerc This is great! Thank you for the info!

@@EdG407FL No problem. I'm happy to help when I can.

Thanks Sims!

Awesome to hear! Thats what it is here for. Helping others when I can!

Hockey sticks! LOL that's brilliant! I'll have to pass that on to the track owner. Thank you for the comment and support.

I have a Silhouette Cameo cutter. The Vinyl is Avery Paint masking vinyl. They have two versions, one in white and one in yellow. For whatever reason, I find the white paint masking to be much more pliable especially in sharper cornered edges and such. I greatly appreciate the comment and support.

I greatly appreciate the comment and support. Honestly, I cannot remember the exact part numbers I used as they were some extra steering links I had in my pan car parts box. However, you can find them on Muddslide Motorsports website. I had three sets of spares, short medium and long in my box. If I remember correctly, I used the medium or long lengths. They sell different length options. with the proper ball end caps, you should be able to take up or lengthen if necessary. I hope this is helpful and thank you again. www.muddslidemotorsports.com/nsearch.html?#search/q=turnbuckles&sortby=rel&main_category=&page=1&size=15&storeid=yhst-26560558224094/1

Absolutely, It is quite a large track with banking as well. Especially for 1/10 scale. They even hold 1/4 scale races here. very cool place. Thank you for the comment and support.