I'm not a 'fella," but I love your video. There are all sorts of useful hints and ideas here. My challenges are a bit different. I am currently working on making .43 Egyptian brass for my 1873 Remington RB starting with .45/90 brass,but this still gives me some helpful suggestions. Please do some more vids on cartridge conversion! Maybe something about making brass for Citadel Martinis with their strange bottle neck 12 ga shells... that's my next project... Thank you so much for posting this. Please keep up the good work! fangirl Karen
absolutely great skills and great video ! could you make a video on 9 x 19 mm case from scratch . in europe we love parabellum , but european governments bolsheviks are limiting our freedom of expression , so we need to adapt ourselves! thank you ! liked and subscribed
Steve have you ever tried making a true rim fire case? Couple of us Winchester collectors have a model 66 RF we're repriming some original cases to shoot. Single shots you can easily work around as you and Dr Shepard (?) have done. Having reloaded since the mid 60s in countless calibers, rim fire for me is the holy grail. Read too many diaries at USU folklore Dept where kids had to collect empties and dad's had to figure out how to reload. You have been an inspiration, thanks.
I have not tried to make new, true rimfire cases. I just don't have the knowledge and skills ti make the necessary drawing dies. I have successfully reloaded and shot original .32, 38, 41, 44 and 50 rimfire cases. Some of these can be seen in my other videos.
Check out my playlist. I have a 2-part video on how to convert centerfire cases to rimfire. The example I show is for a .44. Part 1 is about plugging the centerfire primer pocket. Part 2 is making the offset .22 blank chamber. For smaller cases like .32, the first part is not necessary, they are drilled in the center. Larger cases require an offset. ruclips.net/p/PLaI37ff_Xx68Gt1PeoXtvKtcAr3VWEUrT
Can you share a way to reduce rim size, I only have a small 1/2" capacity table top drill press, I am making 351 Winchester brass and 401 Winchester brass and the cases require reducing the rim, enjoy your videos.
I'm enjoying the video, it's very informative, however I have an obsolete cartridge for which there is no parent case to work from. If anyone has any idea if this works from a brass solid standpoint to create the cartridge from whole cloth. I'm trying to figure out how to get 17.5x28mm rimfire. Yes no joke. And like I said am wondering if machining brass would work. The cartridge is 17.65mm od top tapering out to 17.90 mmat the rim with a 20.10 rim. Offset primer socket of course. The recommended powder charge is 60 g. Any advice would be appreciated.
That's a big one. But I think it could be done. You might want to ask about it on the case reforming sub-forum on the Cast Boolits forum here: castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?218-Case-Forming-Re-forming
@@steveblancard5566 yes, it is big. The projectile is .69 caliber. The rifle is a 17.5 mm danish Snider conversion,type3 Snider. It's been certified safe to shoot by a gunsmith. As a matter of fact he said it doesn't look like it's even ever been fired.To have the brass made by c+c machine is about $320 a little steep. I'm thinking about trying lathing. There is a video on machining brass shotgun shells. So I'm believing it's possible, I just 2anted an experts advice first
You have skills that are just plain not around in the new generations! Bravo Sir!! Enjoying watching your videos!
You have to use what works. I had to cry, I have a Savage Model 99 in .303. I always have an eye out for ammo and brass.
Experience...enough said my good Sir!
I'm not a 'fella," but I love your video. There are all sorts of useful hints and ideas here. My challenges are a bit different. I am currently working on making .43 Egyptian brass for my 1873 Remington RB starting with .45/90 brass,but this still gives me some helpful suggestions. Please do some more vids on cartridge conversion! Maybe something about making brass for Citadel Martinis with their strange bottle neck 12 ga shells... that's my next project...
Thank you so much for posting this. Please keep up the good work!
fangirl Karen
Nice work!
Smart thinking gave me some good ideas
the abrasive is fixed on the surface of the brass and will then damage the chamber. it makes sense to use steel wool
Cool!
absolutely great skills and great video ! could you make a video on 9 x 19 mm case from scratch . in europe we love parabellum , but european governments bolsheviks are limiting our freedom of expression , so we need to adapt ourselves! thank you ! liked and subscribed
Steve have you ever tried making a true rim fire case? Couple of us Winchester collectors have a model 66 RF we're repriming some original cases to shoot. Single shots you can easily work around as you and Dr Shepard (?) have done. Having reloaded since the mid 60s in countless calibers, rim fire for me is the holy grail. Read too many diaries at USU folklore Dept where kids had to collect empties and dad's had to figure out how to reload. You have been an inspiration, thanks.
I have not tried to make new, true rimfire cases. I just don't have the knowledge and skills ti make the necessary drawing dies. I have successfully reloaded and shot original .32, 38, 41, 44 and 50 rimfire cases. Some of these can be seen in my other videos.
i load 43 spanish some of the brass for that is reformed from 348?winchester the bases of that have to be swedged to proper size
I would be very interested in how you make rim fire cases. Enjoyed the video and hope you make more especially full screen.
Check out my playlist. I have a 2-part video on how to convert centerfire cases to rimfire. The example I show is for a .44. Part 1 is about plugging the centerfire primer pocket. Part 2 is making the offset .22 blank chamber. For smaller cases like .32, the first part is not necessary, they are drilled in the center. Larger cases require an offset. ruclips.net/p/PLaI37ff_Xx68Gt1PeoXtvKtcAr3VWEUrT
Can you share a way to reduce rim size, I only have a small 1/2" capacity table top drill press, I am making 351 Winchester brass and 401 Winchester brass and the cases require reducing the rim, enjoy your videos.
Rim diameter or thickness? Diameter can be done by spinning the case in a drill press and using a file carefully remove a little at a time.
@@steveblancard5566 okay, thanks, thought maybe there was a more accurate way, like fitting a tool for cutting the rim in a vise on drill press table.
I'm enjoying the video, it's very informative, however I have an obsolete cartridge for which there is no parent case to work from. If anyone has any idea if this works from a brass solid standpoint to create the cartridge from whole cloth. I'm trying to figure out how to get 17.5x28mm rimfire. Yes no joke. And like I said am wondering if machining brass would work. The cartridge is 17.65mm od top tapering out to 17.90 mmat the rim with a 20.10 rim. Offset primer socket of course. The recommended powder charge is 60 g. Any advice would be appreciated.
That's a big one. But I think it could be done. You might want to ask about it on the case reforming sub-forum on the Cast Boolits forum here: castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?218-Case-Forming-Re-forming
@@steveblancard5566 yes, it is big. The projectile is .69 caliber. The rifle is a 17.5 mm danish Snider conversion,type3 Snider. It's been certified safe to shoot by a gunsmith. As a matter of fact he said it doesn't look like it's even ever been fired.To have the brass made by c+c machine is about $320 a little steep. I'm thinking about trying lathing. There is a video on machining brass shotgun shells. So I'm believing it's possible, I just 2anted an experts advice first
couldnt you swedge the base on the 41 magnum?to 505
I do use .41 mag brass for this rifle. It works well, but the rim is a tad small.
also couldnt you cut your brass out of solid stock?
A lot more work!
A case from solid bar stock will be very weak at the head. Steve's method preserves the strength of the drawn case.
Why do you cut with a parting tool? 🤷♂️
Only because it is very narrow and fits easily in the limited space. But its not required.
@@steveblancard5566 but quality of the cut would be better with a single point cutter. 😉
@@karlfroschauer290 The tool is ground with a slight angle, so it cuts with a very small point. The finish is fine.