Started wiping down machines and sweeping my dad's T&D Shop out at 12yo. At 14 I started in the grinding shop. At 16 I moved to die building and at 18 I took over supervision of the 2nd shift. We built just about everything over the years and many thing other said could not be done. You are correct about the reverse draw for short dia to depth ratios. You are a natural and a person must be born with it.
Amazing! I was actually researching this myself as I have always been into reloading, and recently decided I want to do my own casting as well. I'm very much interested in a detailed series.
John, if you post it I will watch it. I really enjoy all of your videos, and I don't skip through any of it. I think one of the best features of your is showing the real details of what it takes to get to the end product. Thanks and keep posting :-)
You betcha I am interested in more videos along this line. It is the main agenda that brought me to buying a lathe. Got me started, now I gotta get a mill.
This is an awesome idea for a series! I would love all the nitty gritty detail, since I am going to be embarking on this same journey as well. I would love to see your process.
U have a good voice and are a good speaker. U sound like we want to listen to what u have to say instead of wanting to press stop and look for other vids
At 1:05 the video shows someone measuring a bore with a twin pin tool. I bought Hexagon Tesa 3 point Imicro and TRI O Bore inside micrometers. They do a great job correctly measuring bored holes. They catch out of round, barrel shape, bulged bores and many other poor conditions of boring holes.
Clamp the copper with the outer edge of the die first. Continue the stroke to form the completed draw and then cut the part free from the strip. So, a heavy spring holds the part in place while it is being drawn. The drawing cavity is supported by an even heavier spring, rendering it immobile until near the end of the stroke. At that time it gives way, allowing the shearing edges to do their thing. A small pin under a light spring load in the center of the first part of the die (concave side of the part) then pushes the finished part off the die. At the beginning of the stroke, when it first encounters the material, the spring will not offer enough resistance to affect the material, but after the part has been formed and is cut free from the strip, it will be enough to push the finished part off the forming die, where it would otherwise cling as if electroplated on. The stripper pin should NOT be a close-tolerance fit ... .020 wiggle is good ... because you want to prevent a vacuum from forming on the back of the part. Clamp. Form. Punch. Eject. Full soft copper is so malleable that you can start with stock that is already nearly the finished thickness. Make the clearance on the shearing edges 1/3 the thickness of the material per side. IE .030" material needs .010" clearance. Make the punch .020" smaller than the die. You may be able to tighten that up a few thousandths, but those numbers will get you close enough to make parts. You WANT the material to fracture, leaving a compression line on each side of a fracture zone. When those three zones are equal, you have the clearance between the punch and die right. I can't give you the weights on the springs, sorry but I never got that far, but think in terms of valve lifter springs. You can drop one spring inside another to get more resistance, if needed.
With normal cupping, you can just pull the punch back out and it'll strip the cup off just fine. That's what I do anyway. With really small diameter punches as well, the name of the game is polish. Every die surface should be a mirror, and, between every anneal, you must remove any scale so you don't scratch it. This is just from my own personal experience. Also don't use too much lube but also don't use too little. And, if you have a spring loaded stripper under a light spring like you say, if you're a good machinist and made your dies very carefully, it should work for stripping the parts. Unfortunately I wasn't really able to do this with my 22 cartridge case forming project because my hydraulic press didn't have a threaded part on the ram for it and it's very easy to bend the really long thin punch you need for forming 22 lr cases.
Another note, as you step up to 3, 4, 5 times diameter the length you may have to use a reverse draw to keep from ripping the wall apart. As you work the copper or brass it becomes somewhat hardened. This is called work hardening and this makes the next draw more difficult. A tempering can be done (heat treatment) to relieve the built up stress in the wall but may not be necessary if you do a reverse draw. Great jobs man!
cant wait to see it. make it as detailed as you can.like some of the other guys have said you make really good videos so being a little long wont hurt a thing.
Would love to see all steps. Doesn't matter if the video is 5 minutes or 50, as long as there is good content then we will watch. You put up good content so don't worry about time.
What a great topic. Thanks god you got out of nyc and can shoot again. This is a very interesting subject. I'm interested in heat treating. 1144 is used the Parker Hannifin for their hydraulic quick couplers. It makes a great bearing surface when hard. They induction harden it. We used it for 2" drive shafts at work and it cracked. It also cracks if your weld it (high sulfur).
I wish I'd've found your channel about two years sooner! I know you've had a lot of comments on the series, but I just hope you've gone into exhaustive detail about making bullet jackets. I have a small, and very old Craftsman bench lathe, but it'd work great for making the dies the way you've got them set up here. I like it, and I like it a lot! (Your series, on making jacket drawing dies, I mean.) I have a hand press that has lots of the muscle that's needed for moving metal. This is actually exciting for me!
Cast iron has been used on radiosed draw dies. Thow relitively soft, It is polished quickly and easily. So your aluminum may work quite well. Just a thought from a retired tool and die maker. Oh. Another thing that is fun to do is to invert the shell onto what would look like the end of a pipe with inner and outer Rad. The ID of this is the OD of your next shell. It totale controls the line up. Do the punch the same with a radiosed end. Just fun to watch the material being pulled up that outside of the pillar and around th top. Have fun.
Genius!I'm doing a more primitive jacketing,turning a 1/2 copper plumbing cap into something similar to the .73 Fury for 12 ga.Also to make FMJ round nose for the same-shot out of 12 ga fully rifled ultra slug.
Absolutely fascinating, and excellent timing! Please include as much detail as possible, and if this works out for you I'm sure there would be much interest in a brass casings test as well.
How exciting! Put me down for more detail too! How much detail? Well, I don't know. Enough that I have a good understanding of how this all works, but I don't want to see each pass of the lathe either. I'm looking forward to seeing this project!
PLEASE tell me there's more videos on this! I tried skimming through your videos, but there's a toonnn of them (great for you guys, it's alot of work to put out that much quality content) and couldn't find any other bullet vids
Thank you. I want to learn how to draw smaller stuff. My goal is to draw cups for making primers for rifles and pistols and to draw brass for making rim fire rounds. Starting with 22 long rifle, but I would also like to be able to draw cases for 41 Swiss Rim Fire. The most important by far are the cups for primers. I do not have a machine shop. So far I have been making dies for swaging 22 long rifle bullets (no jackets) and dies for sizing the brass for 22 LR. I use a drill press and a dremel with diamond bits for machining.
Great stuff Sir, thank you for the many great videos. I would like to see anything you think would be helpful to anyone trying to learn a related trade or hobby. People who really like this kind of work aren't generally the sort to call it boring or wasted thought / experience. I very much appreciate your investment of energy in the endeavor of inspiring the community to learn and build; genuinely first class.
Hey no problem! I used to be a ebay power seller/china importer. I could ship a ton of crap {literally} from china to my doorstep, on a couple pallets for 1200 bucks. the part the caught my attention was when i read the bill. 800 of it was administrative fees! it was under 500 for the actual sea freight and train freight and eventual break out to a lift gate truck for home delivery! Most of these places like uship are just RAPE. smalltime carriers, no liability.
As a very old Tool & Die Maker I sure like to see others with the born ability to concieve and produce stamping and forming dies of all type. Very nice work! My best projects were deep form dies for all sorts of parts. I like your work and wonder if you have thought about pressure extruded copper or brass alloy casings. A small puck is placed down in a female form cavity and a form punch is pushed in which reverse extrudes the material up the sides forming a casing. Soda and Beer can technology
I feel like they should be contacting you about teaching at the NY techshop when it opens also, a detailed look at this project would be great - I've been wanting to see what would sort of metal forming tools could be made in a shop similar to mine
Sure the tonnage is higher but the material metallurgy is very important. The material must be one that flows. Did you know that Kiddy Fire Extinguishers are formed buy extrusion? Great work and great video!
you can go direct to the carriers websites like DHE {dependable highway express} redding, swift, whatever you see on teh side of the truck. You can get similar quotes right off their sites, but freight quote allows you to compare them quickly and easily. on the flip side i used uship site to quote moving a bandsaw 180 miles and all were well over 1000 bucks. if its palletized, LTL freight is CHEAP.
Oh, I forgot to mention that after my dad sold his T&D shop I went to work for an old German guy who was licensed to manufacture handguns for S&W many of which were made on the old style machines (now antiques). Of course newer designs (1985+) were created on cnc.
I'm up for the detail too. I'm looking forward to see if and how you incorporate any extraction into the punch. I was wondering about maybe putting and extra stepped diameter or two into your punch....that way, when you cut and press it the first time, you wouldn't have to extract it from the female die, just change the male die and press it again. Maybe do all the stepped pressing but the final so that it could be controlled a bit better?
Hi, two thumbs up in my book. Great video and I would like to see every step, as I also reload my own ammo and reload .233. You can never have to much information, well except that one friend that tells you there going to the bathroom and what they are going to do in there. Now that right there is TMI lol
Instead of running it thru die after die after die, perhaps making a single multi-level die but using multiple sized push rods that fit each level so you could essentially push the one copper blank straight down from the top and by the time it reaches the bottom it is the size and shape to surround the bullet core?
Well, i will keep you posted if i see something pop up out there. Tons of machinery out your way. I am originally from the east coast, and am constantly sickened at my struggle to find decent machinery out west. Watch those gov liquidations and prvt auctions! You can have one of those presses shipped 1000 miles for 150 bucks. freight quote dot com is a good site. i shipped a 300lbs machine from phx to north la for 120 bucks. from a residence.
NYC and you learned to make your own bullets------- lol- that must come in handy. but this is a good start- but try this--- if you want to form (ammo) get a cutting torch, melt copper and zinc= brass= cold roll the brass to a plate- 1 millimetre and .5 millimetre----- form press the 1 millimetre in to shell cases-and the .5 millimetre in to primer caps (same method to make primer caps) primer caps you need potassium and choline to make potassium chlorate ( a impact explosive) and then you need to make a ((anvil) it is the striker in side the primer think small circle with a hole in the middle- it hold the chlorate in the primer and when the primer is hit you crush it between the primer case and the small metal with a hole (anival) as for the shells- OD of the formed case -- lets say 9 millimetre- then a reinforced backing of 2 millimetre brass brazing- crimping or one pieces can be made for the backing- brass is wonderful to work with cause it is so easy to form- from that point- get a ((gun shell reloaded)) with resizing dies- you can make the shell small in diameter NOT bigger- start with 9 millimetre and size it down to 22 calibre if you want- you need potassium nitrate (75%) sulfur (15%) carbon (10 %)------- black powder---- nice start------- but there you go--have fun-be safe-------
Nice videos. How hard would it be to fabricate a punch and die set to make primer caps and anvils for reloading? Primers are not currently for sale and I can only reload factory primers so many times. Thank You.
I would love to see it all and if you had the cad drawings downloadable/for sale it would be great to make these on my old Southbend. This video got me to subscribe hit the bell notification and give a thumbs up I am looking forward to the rest of the series!!!
Quick question for you. Able to make a tool to make large pistol primer cups and also a tool for make the anvil for them too. That right there is something I may be very interested in and possibly pursuing
I've got a 770, a KMG grinder (3 speed), a HF mini lathe with far too many hours of use, drill press, bench grinder, horizontal band saw, and some woodworking stuff I've got a friend one town over who lets me use his southbend though - I think I'd be heading over there for this one
Both. I use gas checks in my cast bullets. I had never though to jacketting the whole bullet. I'm wondering if I can resize a jacketed bullet. I am also very interested in generic blanking and the making of progressive dies. Paul
I would like ALL the detail I can get. I am a NEW mini Lathe owner. Used wood lathes a lot. have 2 so know some. I load my own and can't afford to buy all these dies to make from. Also plan on turning my own loading dies in the near future. Looking for a mini mill.
Oh....the punch/die would have to be longer/taller to accommodate the added steps. If it would work, you'd only have to extract twice instead of four times.
What are the dimensions for the dies and what caliber is this for? Also what aluminum and what steel would be best? I was thinking 6061 or 7071t6 aluminum and O1 tool steel round stock.
hi!please tell me the formula (or size) how to calculate the size of a copper billet for 308 caliber bullets ?what thickness is better to take copper ? and what are the diameters of punches and matrices to use when stamping?
John...this is awesome! Thanks for posting these video...I can't wait to watch the rest of them. I just recently decided that because of the exorbitant prices of ammo and the recent unconstitutional legislation (which is null & void) it would be a great idea to make my own ammunition from start to finish. If you have the time I'd to speak with you about the acquisition of the necessary tools and what you think it might cost to set up a semi-automated system or possibly a hydraulic/pneumatic multi-die system to make more than one bullet at a time.
Big Thumbs up John, this one sparked a interest I have,,,I sent you a message about it, if you get time let me know what you think...very interesting stuff John...amazing!
I'd like to see something about making casings as well.
yeahh me 2
It's possible to cast lead bullets easily... Making casings at home is something that would be really useful. Pls help
@@clive1236 you'd have to turn them, the the hardware for drawing brass thick enough to form that case head would be out of your price range.
@@pacman10182 that makes sense... Thanks👍
Me to
Started wiping down machines and sweeping my dad's T&D Shop out at 12yo. At 14 I started in the grinding shop. At 16 I moved to die building and at 18 I took over supervision of the 2nd shift. We built just about everything over the years and many thing other said could not be done. You are correct about the reverse draw for short dia to depth ratios. You are a natural and a person must be born with it.
Amazing! I was actually researching this myself as I have always been into reloading, and recently decided I want to do my own casting as well. I'm very much interested in a detailed series.
it's every res blooded American boys personal responsibility to know how to do this at this point in time
How interesting. This video is 7 years old, but now I see new comments. This means that the topic is more relevant than the time.
this shows how that casing is made, thanks, the other vids just show machines working, not how the metal is shaped. love to see more of yours
I'm all for it!
Personally I would like a series that goes into all the details
Great to see someone doing this, with all the ability, so please as much detail as possible, thanks
After seven years I'd bet you have already done it just ran across this I hope you have given every detail ! I'm starting from scratch again .
John, if you post it I will watch it. I really enjoy all of your videos, and I don't skip through any of it. I think one of the best features of your is showing the real details of what it takes to get to the end product. Thanks and keep posting :-)
You betcha I am interested in more videos along this line. It is the main agenda that brought me to buying a lathe. Got me started, now I gotta get a mill.
This is an awesome idea for a series! I would love all the nitty gritty detail, since I am going to be embarking on this same journey as well. I would love to see your process.
The world needs more swage die makers
Man, the channel is gold 👌 ❤ wish I could find it earlier. This is exactly what I have been looking for.
It will be interesting to see how you form your primer pockets. Keep the videos coming!
U have a good voice and are a good speaker. U sound like we want to listen to what u have to say instead of wanting to press stop and look for other vids
At 1:05 the video shows someone measuring a bore with a twin pin tool. I bought Hexagon Tesa 3 point Imicro and TRI O Bore inside micrometers. They do a great job correctly measuring bored holes. They catch out of round, barrel shape, bulged bores and many other poor conditions of boring holes.
Finally ! Somebody making a full video on how FMJ ,s are made.
Clamp the copper with the outer edge of the die first. Continue the stroke to form the completed draw and then cut the part free from the strip. So, a heavy spring holds the part in place while it is being drawn. The drawing cavity is supported by an even heavier spring, rendering it immobile until near the end of the stroke. At that time it gives way, allowing the shearing edges to do their thing. A small pin under a light spring load in the center of the first part of the die (concave side of the part) then pushes the finished part off the die. At the beginning of the stroke, when it first encounters the material, the spring will not offer enough resistance to affect the material, but after the part has been formed and is cut free from the strip, it will be enough to push the finished part off the forming die, where it would otherwise cling as if electroplated on. The stripper pin should NOT be a close-tolerance fit ... .020 wiggle is good ... because you want to prevent a vacuum from forming on the back of the part.
Clamp.
Form.
Punch.
Eject.
Full soft copper is so malleable that you can start with stock that is already nearly the finished thickness. Make the clearance on the shearing edges 1/3 the thickness of the material per side. IE .030" material needs .010" clearance. Make the punch .020" smaller than the die. You may be able to tighten that up a few thousandths, but those numbers will get you close enough to make parts. You WANT the material to fracture, leaving a compression line on each side of a fracture zone. When those three zones are equal, you have the clearance between the punch and die right.
I can't give you the weights on the springs, sorry but I never got that far, but think in terms of valve lifter springs. You can drop one spring inside another to get more resistance, if needed.
With normal cupping, you can just pull the punch back out and it'll strip the cup off just fine. That's what I do anyway. With really small diameter punches as well, the name of the game is polish. Every die surface should be a mirror, and, between every anneal, you must remove any scale so you don't scratch it. This is just from my own personal experience. Also don't use too much lube but also don't use too little. And, if you have a spring loaded stripper under a light spring like you say, if you're a good machinist and made your dies very carefully, it should work for stripping the parts. Unfortunately I wasn't really able to do this with my 22 cartridge case forming project because my hydraulic press didn't have a threaded part on the ram for it and it's very easy to bend the really long thin punch you need for forming 22 lr cases.
Another note, as you step up to 3, 4, 5 times diameter the length you may have to use a reverse draw to keep from ripping the wall apart. As you work the copper or brass it becomes somewhat hardened. This is called work hardening and this makes the next draw more difficult. A tempering can be done (heat treatment) to relieve the built up stress in the wall but may not be necessary if you do a reverse draw. Great jobs man!
cant wait to see it. make it as detailed as you can.like some of the other guys have said you make really good videos so being a little long wont hurt a thing.
I am indeed. Yeah, it's solid! The only downside is the belt ratio changes. The variable speed setup is the way to go
Would love to see all steps. Doesn't matter if the video is 5 minutes or 50, as long as there is good content then we will watch. You put up good content so don't worry about time.
Details, every little gritty one.. (and we have missed your videos!)
What a great topic. Thanks god you got out of nyc and can shoot again. This is a very interesting subject. I'm interested in heat treating. 1144 is used the Parker Hannifin for their hydraulic quick couplers. It makes a great bearing surface when hard. They induction harden it. We used it for 2" drive shafts at work and it cracked. It also cracks if your weld it (high sulfur).
I wish I'd've found your channel about two years sooner! I know you've had a lot of comments on the series, but I just hope you've gone into exhaustive detail about making bullet jackets. I have a small, and very old Craftsman bench lathe, but it'd work great for making the dies the way you've got them set up here. I like it, and I like it a lot! (Your series, on making jacket drawing dies, I mean.) I have a hand press that has lots of the muscle that's needed for moving metal. This is actually exciting for me!
I’m a little late to the party but I’d love to watch the whole machining process
Cast iron has been used on radiosed draw dies.
Thow relitively soft, It is polished quickly and easily.
So your aluminum may work quite well.
Just a thought from a retired tool and die maker.
Oh. Another thing that is fun to do is to invert the shell onto what would look like the end of a pipe with inner and outer Rad. The ID of this is the OD of your next shell. It totale controls the line up. Do the punch the same with a radiosed end.
Just fun to watch the material being pulled up that outside of the pillar and around th top.
Have fun.
I would like to see as much as possible! This is sooooo interesting! Realy good project!
Have a nice day!
Genius!I'm doing a more primitive jacketing,turning a 1/2 copper plumbing cap into something similar to the .73 Fury for 12 ga.Also to make FMJ round nose for the same-shot out of 12 ga fully rifled ultra slug.
Absolutely fascinating, and excellent timing! Please include as much detail as possible, and if this works out for you I'm sure there would be much interest in a brass casings test as well.
Exactly why you said you got interested is my reasons and I just found this video.
This is truly fascinating!
Don't forget about draft angles! Makes ejection so much easier.
Yes would like to see much more detail 😊👍
How exciting! Put me down for more detail too! How much detail? Well, I don't know. Enough that I have a good understanding of how this all works, but I don't want to see each pass of the lathe either. I'm looking forward to seeing this project!
PLEASE tell me there's more videos on this! I tried skimming through your videos, but there's a toonnn of them (great for you guys, it's alot of work to put out that much quality content) and couldn't find any other bullet vids
Thank you. I want to learn how to draw smaller stuff. My goal is to draw cups for making primers for rifles and pistols and to draw brass for making rim fire rounds. Starting with 22 long rifle, but I would also like to be able to draw cases for 41 Swiss Rim Fire. The most important by far are the cups for primers. I do not have a machine shop. So far I have been making dies for swaging 22 long rifle bullets (no jackets) and dies for sizing the brass for 22 LR. I use a drill press and a dremel with diamond bits for machining.
just convert your vetterli to centerfire, it's so much easier then loading rimfire brass
Great stuff Sir, thank you for the many great videos. I would like to see anything you think would be helpful to anyone trying to learn a related trade or hobby. People who really like this kind of work aren't generally the sort to call it boring or wasted thought / experience. I very much appreciate your investment of energy in the endeavor of inspiring the community to learn and build; genuinely first class.
SUCH AN AMAZING THING, SWAGING IS AWSOME!.
Would love to see more on this project!
Hi John. I enjoyed the most of your Great and High quality Videos. I wanna see the complete Series of your Projekt. Greets from Germany
Hey no problem! I used to be a ebay power seller/china importer. I could ship a ton of crap {literally} from china to my doorstep, on a couple pallets for 1200 bucks. the part the caught my attention was when i read the bill. 800 of it was administrative fees! it was under 500 for the actual sea freight and train freight and eventual break out to a lift gate truck for home delivery! Most of these places like uship are just RAPE. smalltime carriers, no liability.
Something I am very interested in personally. More information the better in my books.
Are planning to sell these at any time?
Thx for your great videos!
Would love to see the whole process to a final product. Would buy the plans to make my own as well. Great job
As a very old Tool & Die Maker I sure like to see others with the born ability to concieve and produce stamping and forming dies of all type. Very nice work! My best projects were deep form dies for all sorts of parts. I like your work and wonder if you have thought about pressure extruded copper or brass alloy casings. A small puck is placed down in a female form cavity and a form punch is pushed in which reverse extrudes the material up the sides forming a casing. Soda and Beer can technology
I feel like they should be contacting you about teaching at the NY techshop when it opens
also, a detailed look at this project would be great - I've been wanting to see what would sort of metal forming tools could be made in a shop similar to mine
I vote for all the details!
Perfect video. I would like to see it all.
nice video i would like to see the whole process making you punches dies ect and the finished product
Impressed with your work, can u please post the sizes of your dies. Do u have some diagrams or blueprints?
Please show more and with details so I can make my own!
A pretty complex process!
You could probably make rimfire cases for old obsolete rimfire calibers like the 25 Stevens.
Sure the tonnage is higher but the material metallurgy is very important. The material must be one that flows. Did you know that Kiddy Fire Extinguishers are formed buy extrusion? Great work and great video!
I use soft iron which is very easy to get very hard due case hardening, very easy to do.
I'm in for the works.
you can go direct to the carriers websites like DHE {dependable highway express} redding, swift, whatever you see on teh side of the truck. You can get similar quotes right off their sites, but freight quote allows you to compare them quickly and easily. on the flip side i used uship site to quote moving a bandsaw 180 miles and all were well over 1000 bucks. if its palletized, LTL freight is CHEAP.
Can you show the process for making cartridge castings? Rifle and Pistol would be great.
Every detail please! :)
thank you very much for your presentations. how would a novice begin this sort of thing?
Oh, I forgot to mention that after my dad sold his T&D shop I went to work for an old German guy who was licensed to manufacture handguns for S&W many of which were made on the old style machines (now antiques). Of course newer designs (1985+) were created on cnc.
This is cool!
I'm up for the detail too. I'm looking forward to see if and how you incorporate any extraction into the punch. I was wondering about maybe putting and extra stepped diameter or two into your punch....that way, when you cut and press it the first time, you wouldn't have to extract it from the female die, just change the male die and press it again. Maybe do all the stepped pressing but the final so that it could be controlled a bit better?
Hi, two thumbs up in my book. Great video and I would like to see every step, as I also reload my own ammo and reload .233. You can never have to much information, well except that one friend that tells you there going to the bathroom and what they are going to do in there. Now that right there is TMI lol
Detail! Detail! Esp, on the machines used as well, because i'm considering purchasing a small lathe.
Great project. Don't leave out ANY information or steps, and please explain why you do everything you do. And thank you !
John,
Are you going to show how to make swaging dies? I would like to see how to make swaging dies.
thanks,
George
Awesome video, thanks for sharing. Keep it going!
It is all about the details. It might save you from being flooded with questions anyways.
Really cool man.
Instead of running it thru die after die after die, perhaps making a single multi-level die but using multiple sized push rods that fit each level so you could essentially push the one copper blank straight down from the top and by the time it reaches the bottom it is the size and shape to surround the bullet core?
Well, i will keep you posted if i see something pop up out there. Tons of machinery out your way. I am originally from the east coast, and am constantly sickened at my struggle to find decent machinery out west. Watch those gov liquidations and prvt auctions! You can have one of those presses shipped 1000 miles for 150 bucks. freight quote dot com is a good site. i shipped a 300lbs machine from phx to north la for 120 bucks. from a residence.
NYC and you learned to make your own bullets------- lol- that must come in handy.
but this is a good start- but try this--- if you want to form (ammo) get a cutting torch, melt copper and zinc= brass= cold roll the brass to a plate- 1 millimetre and .5 millimetre----- form press the 1 millimetre in to shell cases-and the .5 millimetre in to primer caps (same method to make primer caps)
primer caps you need potassium and choline to make potassium chlorate ( a impact explosive) and then you need to make a ((anvil) it is the striker in side the primer think small circle with a hole in the middle- it hold the chlorate in the primer and when the primer is hit you crush it between the primer case and the small metal with a hole (anival)
as for the shells- OD of the formed case -- lets say 9 millimetre- then a reinforced backing of 2 millimetre brass brazing- crimping or one pieces can be made for the backing- brass is wonderful to work with cause it is so easy to form- from that point- get a ((gun shell reloaded)) with resizing dies- you can make the shell small in diameter NOT bigger- start with 9 millimetre and size it down to 22 calibre if you want-
you need potassium nitrate (75%) sulfur (15%) carbon (10 %)------- black powder----
nice start------- but there you go--have fun-be safe-------
Nice videos. How hard would it be to fabricate a punch and die set to make primer caps and anvils for reloading? Primers are not currently for sale and I can only reload factory primers so many times. Thank You.
I would love to see it all and if you had the cad drawings downloadable/for sale it would be great to make these on my old Southbend.
This video got me to subscribe hit the bell notification and give a thumbs up I am looking forward to the rest of the series!!!
show as much details as you can good job sir
could this process be used to make primer cups?
Yes. Also, I don't know how you'd be able to make the anvil part of the primer.
Quick question for you.
Able to make a tool to make large pistol primer cups and also a tool for make the anvil for them too.
That right there is something I may be very interested in and possibly pursuing
absolutely carry on
Really get into it
I would like to see a lot of detail. I'm very interested !!
I've got a 770, a KMG grinder (3 speed), a HF mini lathe with far too many hours of use, drill press, bench grinder, horizontal band saw, and some woodworking stuff
I've got a friend one town over who lets me use his southbend though - I think I'd be heading over there for this one
Nice instruction video. Do you know ifs it possible to make jackets out of stainless steel or is that not ductile enough? Maybe heat the piece first?
Both. I use gas checks in my cast bullets. I had never though to jacketting the whole bullet. I'm wondering if I can resize a jacketed bullet.
I am also very interested in generic blanking and the making of progressive dies.
Paul
I would like ALL the detail I can get.
I am a NEW mini Lathe owner. Used wood lathes a lot. have 2 so know some.
I load my own and can't afford to buy all these dies to make from.
Also plan on turning my own loading dies in the near future.
Looking for a mini mill.
please make detailed vids about bolets
Can you use 3/8 copper pipe caps and swage them into 9mm jackets?
I want to see everything!!!!!
Can you make a mold for a . 32 cal teatfire cartridge casing mold?
Oh....the punch/die would have to be longer/taller to accommodate the added steps. If it would work, you'd only have to extract twice instead of four times.
Nice, but how to get a reduced diameter at the end of the shell as it is, for example, in rifle cartridges or 7.63×25mm
I have studied the cost aspect of bullet making. Even for hobbyist it needs to be automated to some degree. Twenty strokes for one bullet is a lot.
what about thicker hardened steel jackets(then using a copper jacket over that, of course)?
What are the dimensions for the dies and what caliber is this for? Also what aluminum and what steel would be best? I was thinking 6061 or 7071t6 aluminum and O1 tool steel round stock.
hi!please tell me the formula (or size) how to calculate the size of a copper billet for 308 caliber bullets ?what thickness is better to take copper ? and what are the diameters of punches and matrices to use when stamping?
John...this is awesome! Thanks for posting these video...I can't wait to watch the rest of them. I just recently decided that because of the exorbitant prices of ammo and the recent unconstitutional legislation (which is null & void) it would be a great idea to make my own ammunition from start to finish. If you have the time I'd to speak with you about the acquisition of the necessary tools and what you think it might cost to set up a semi-automated system or possibly a hydraulic/pneumatic multi-die system to make more than one bullet at a time.
The mix.
Very interesting. I’m subscribed. How do you plan to add lead and tapper the nose. Originally, jacketed bullets were open on the bottom.
What about the press power as tons, sir?
Big Thumbs up John, this one sparked a interest I have,,,I sent you a message about it, if you get time let me know what you think...very interesting stuff John...amazing!