Hey there! This is such a simple guide to follow. I plan on using it for a live edge table I'm making for my family! Just a quick question; other guides use a straight bit or a surfacing bit to route out a small portion of the inside so the C channel will sink in slightly and rest flush with the rest of the tabletop. Is this necessary? Or is it just for aesthetics? Thanks so much!
Great video. Question for you. I have a black walnut table that is 1 7/8” thick and 53”x96”. I plan to install c channels and recess them in to be flush. The channels are 1” total depth. The jig I have built is going to allow 1/16 inch on each side of the wings to allow for movement. So dato for each wing would be total of 5/16”. My question is would these channels weaken the slab since I’m routering 1” down and the table is 1 7/8”. It’s a heavy table. Thanks for the help.
Hey, Canadian Woodworks, I love the video. I am about to install C channels on a table project as well. Which router bit exactly did you use for cutting the grooves? My C channels are made of 3mm steel and are shaped exactly like yours.
Hello, I would like to know what dimensions it is recommended to have the part that goes into the wood depending on the thickness of the table top? For example, with a 4 cm table top, which model of C Channels should I use? Thank you and I await your answer!
Thanks for the video. Should the c channels always be installed at right angles to the long grain? I ask because I have a table in which all the grain runs at 30 degrees to the long edge of the table. Can I still run the c channel at right angles to the long edge? Or should it be at right angles to the grain? If I do the latter, it interferes with the leg mounting plates. Thanks!
Does the fixing in the middle weaken the worktop? at this point the tabletop is cut across almost half the thickness, won't it start to sag in the middle over time?
Great video, thank you. I have just bought a poplar slab that I thought would be dry but it came it quite wet (sun dried for 6 months). Currently letting it air dry in the room where it will be. Should I install the C Channels while it dries to prevent cupping right now or is that a bad idea?
Hello how are you doing Paul i would like to say thank you for all your great video's and information hope everything is going well ok take care cheers
Thank you. quick question please. What if the desktop I've made already has a bit of a curve. It's a very very slight curve, but it is visible. Would putting the c-channel help reducing it and also preventing it from getting worst with time? btw, I've made my desktop from walnut wood.
Hi, Yes it will help. But you need to have the top clamped flat when creating and installing the channel. You could also add some cuts along the length on the underside to relieve some stress.
I have a walnut slab table that’s 98” long that has a slight bow in the middle between the legs. Legs are 58” apart. Would C channel be effective to run length wise? all applications I see of c channel are applied in the width axis.
Nice explanation! I found you through a link from Blacktail Studio. So I'm working on a 3" red oak bar top that's 24" deep. Would you think it needs a C-channel in such a relatively short and relatively thick chunk? Thanks!
Great video! In the process of installing a couple of channels. I had a couple of questions, one you answered elsewhere (whether it’s needed to remove material to get the channel flush - not really) and the other, do you recommend to add a bit of glue/epoxy on the inserts so they stay in place? I’ve read it several times but I feel it’s overkill, especially if set in hardwood, and I don’t see you do it here ;-) Thanks!
we have almost never added and glue to the inserts, especially with the Rampa inserts, with the "home depot" inserts maybe yes as they will literally shrink as time goes on.
Hello, i have made tabel top (oak) 40inch wide and 80 long, and thikness is 1.5 inch. Dray wood about 8%. Is it crucial to use C channels? And is there any other option to chose instaed of C channel and braedbord to keep tabel top stable. Thank tou in advance
Is there a reason why you install these oriented with the width and not the length? Also, for a depth of 1", what is the minimum depth on a slab of wood before you run into issues? Thanks so much for the videos!
Big slab tables will usually warp over it's width if there is an issue, these "help" to limit that issue. Can you use it for the length sure and we have, but usually not needed if your lumber is thick enough. Most of our table are 1.5'' and up, so we are always using these for added insurance down the road.
Have you ever tried aluminum C channel rather than steel? I dont know the rigidity differences specifically, but it seems like it would provide support to smaller tables (coffee or dining size)
I bought this set of brass bushings a while back that you are using. I have a Makita rp2301fc router and I need some kind of bushing plate or adapter to get these bushings to work. You have any idea what I need to get?
Great video! Have you ever had any issues with slab tables cupping even though you’ve installed c-channels? I know you guys are very good at drying big slabs, and i know from my own experience just how difficult it is to get a 3” thick, big slab of wood to dry safely, and uniformly down to 8%, and even when they’re dry they tend to move a little some times, incredibly frustrating.. so i totally get the need for using c-channels. But anyway what do you believe it is that causes perfectly dry wood to move, changes in relative humidity? Drying stress? I mean there’s plenty of airflow on both the top and bottom of a table top, and with an equal amount of finish on both sides, uneven moisture changes seems unlikely. Oh and dry wood tend to be very stable in it’s moisture content despite rapid change in RH. i get readings of 8% mc pretty much all year around in my slabs, but still, every once in a while, a table top slab seems to just spontaneously cup, for no apparent reason. Sorry for the long winded question, i guess it would be interesting to hear your thoughts about it. Since slab tables are expensive to make, and this is the kind of thing woodworkers can get in pretty big trouble for, if they’re either reckless and use wet wood, or just unlucky and made a table from a seemingly dry slab, that somehow decided to cup.
Even with perfectly dried wood, a table is usually exposed to sunlight on the top, or a heater vent on the bottom kinda things, so for big slabs even those small things can have an impact. I believe usng these will help keep your tables flat over years of movement. Will they fix a table that is really gonna move no, some wood is like that but most of the time it's not dried fully / correctly to move that much. This is why it's important to know where your lumber comes from, that it is a consistent source of quality dried lumber.
Canadian Woodworks Thanks, but as I understand it, the benefits of an up-cut spiral bit is better chip ejection and faster feed rates, while down-cut spiral bits excel at cleaner top surfaces (I.e., the bottom of the table top in this case). Wouldn’t it make more sense to use an up-cut bit in this particular case because most of the slot will be hidden by the C channel?
Depends on where you're located, we have deals all over Ontario Rob @ Concept 13 in Mississauga Rob @ Stone City in Bath Jesse @ Burnt Brydges in Stratford Riley @ Anderson Woodworking in Powassan Dan & Trevor @ Defined Lumber in London John & Ryan @ Love Your Wood in Waterdown Hope someone is close to you. They should have everything you need!
Hey there! This is such a simple guide to follow. I plan on using it for a live edge table I'm making for my family!
Just a quick question; other guides use a straight bit or a surfacing bit to route out a small portion of the inside so the C channel will sink in slightly and rest flush with the rest of the tabletop. Is this necessary? Or is it just for aesthetics? Thanks so much!
Great video. Question for you. I have a black walnut table that is 1 7/8” thick and 53”x96”. I plan to install c channels and recess them in to be flush. The channels are 1” total depth. The jig I have built is going to allow 1/16 inch on each side of the wings to allow for movement. So dato for each wing would be total of 5/16”. My question is would these channels weaken the slab since I’m routering 1” down and the table is 1 7/8”. It’s a heavy table. Thanks for the help.
Thank you
I’m not sure what is going on at your shop no new videos
I miss you hope you are doing well🇨🇦
Working on it!
Hey, Canadian Woodworks, I love the video. I am about to install C channels on a table project as well. Which router bit exactly did you use for cutting the grooves? My C channels are made of 3mm steel and are shaped exactly like yours.
We use a 1/4'' spiral bit, down cut to minimize and tear out
Hello,
I would like to know what dimensions it is recommended to have the part that goes into the wood depending on the thickness of the table top? For example, with a 4 cm table top, which model of C Channels should I use?
Thank you and I await your answer!
4 cm = 1.5'' so using our channels with a needed depth of .75'' would work great.
Great video Paul 👍🙌👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the video. Should the c channels always be installed at right angles to the long grain? I ask because I have a table in which all the grain runs at 30 degrees to the long edge of the table. Can I still run the c channel at right angles to the long edge? Or should it be at right angles to the grain? If I do the latter, it interferes with the leg mounting plates. Thanks!
Hmm, i'd still run them the same
Does the fixing in the middle weaken the worktop? at this point the tabletop is cut across almost half the thickness, won't it start to sag in the middle over time?
We have not had any issues length wise after install C-channels, this is after 100's of tables.
Great video, thank you. I have just bought a poplar slab that I thought would be dry but it came it quite wet (sun dried for 6 months). Currently letting it air dry in the room where it will be. Should I install the C Channels while it dries to prevent cupping right now or is that a bad idea?
I suggest finding a kiln to have it properly dried
Hello how are you doing Paul i would like to say thank you for all your great video's and information hope everything is going well ok take care cheers
You are very welcome
Thank you. quick question please. What if the desktop I've made already has a bit of a curve. It's a very very slight curve, but it is visible. Would putting the c-channel help reducing it and also preventing it from getting worst with time? btw, I've made my desktop from walnut wood.
Hi, Yes it will help. But you need to have the top clamped flat when creating and installing the channel. You could also add some cuts along the length on the underside to relieve some stress.
@@CanadianWoodworks Thank you!
How many c channels do you typically use? I’m likely going to be working on a 14 ft table…thinking maybe 4-5 of these over the entire length?
I would go with 4 pieces on a 14' table top
Awesome I need that jig
Rob at Concept 13 offers them.
Thanks for the info Paul! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
You bet!
I have a walnut slab table that’s 98” long that has a slight bow in the middle between the legs. Legs are 58” apart.
Would C channel be effective to run length wise? all applications I see of c channel are applied in the width axis.
Hi Nick, yes we have used C-channel like this to help with this issue
Thanks Paul . May I ask where you got your allen key adapter for installing your inserts thanks John
Great question but I don't actually remember!
I really miss your frequent videos :(
Hi, You'll have them again!
Your comment is terrific news in an otherwise pretty crappy day.
Nice explanation! I found you through a link from Blacktail Studio.
So I'm working on a 3" red oak bar top that's 24" deep. Would you think it needs a C-channel in such a relatively short and relatively thick chunk?
Thanks!
If it is dried well and sealed the same on both side, most likely not needed. But you might know that by now as your comment was 3 months ago (-:
Thank you Paul. Where can I order the C-channel, inserts, and bolts?
Thanks for watching, you can purchase from my dealers. We have April Wilkerson in Texas and In Toronto conceptthirteen.ca/
Great video! In the process of installing a couple of channels. I had a couple of questions, one you answered elsewhere (whether it’s needed to remove material to get the channel flush - not really) and the other, do you recommend to add a bit of glue/epoxy on the inserts so they stay in place? I’ve read it several times but I feel it’s overkill, especially if set in hardwood, and I don’t see you do it here ;-) Thanks!
we have almost never added and glue to the inserts, especially with the Rampa inserts, with the "home depot" inserts maybe yes as they will literally shrink as time goes on.
Nice video Paul!
Thanks!
Hello, i have made tabel top (oak) 40inch wide and 80 long, and thikness is 1.5 inch. Dray wood about 8%. Is it crucial to use C channels? And is there any other option to chose instaed of C channel and braedbord to keep tabel top stable. Thank tou in advance
Bread board end is also a great choice, C-channels are not 100% necessary, but they are more insurance over the long haul.
@@CanadianWoodworks ok, thanks, so i can use table without c chaneel and breadboard, and it will be ok, yes?
Why the threaded inserts? Would a good wood screw not be enough?
That's correct, the threaded inserts are much much stronger.
Very smart and efficient. Great video.
Glad you liked it!
Paul your videos are very useful and much appreciated by all . A question from past video on AVID cnc flattener how do you like it?
Thanks, appreciate the feedback. We love our Avid cnc price point + quality is fantastic!
Can these be added to a 3 yr old top that ha developed a little cup. Will it help to bring it back to flat over time? Any other recommendations.
Yes for sure, they will help. I say they are in negotiations with the wood to be flat
Is there a reason why you install these oriented with the width and not the length? Also, for a depth of 1", what is the minimum depth on a slab of wood before you run into issues? Thanks so much for the videos!
Big slab tables will usually warp over it's width if there is an issue, these "help" to limit that issue. Can you use it for the length sure and we have, but usually not needed if your lumber is thick enough. Most of our table are 1.5'' and up, so we are always using these for added insurance down the road.
Have you ever tried aluminum C channel rather than steel? I dont know the rigidity differences specifically, but it seems like it would provide support to smaller tables (coffee or dining size)
I'd think the aluminum would not have the same rigidity, but I have not tried it
What is the size of your depth block?
Just a hair over .75''
You don't inset the c channel so it sits flush with the bottom of the table?
We almost never fully inset it, I'd rather not remove that 1/4'' of material. Because these are bent and powder coated, then look and feel nice.
I bought this set of brass bushings a while back that you are using. I have a Makita rp2301fc router and I need some kind of bushing plate or adapter to get these bushings to work. You have any idea what I need to get?
Shoot, I hate it when things don't work out. I wonder if Makita makes their own inserts or a base plate what works with these? I don't know.
@@CanadianWoodworks Thanks. I am going to check tomorrow with the Makita dealer. Yall make great videos. I really enjoy them and learn a lot.
Paul where did you buy those inserts and bolts
conceptthirteen.ca/collections/bolts-and-inserts
Great video! Have you ever had any issues with slab tables cupping even though you’ve installed c-channels? I know you guys are very good at drying big slabs, and i know from my own experience just how difficult it is to get a 3” thick, big slab of wood to dry safely, and uniformly down to 8%, and even when they’re dry they tend to move a little some times, incredibly frustrating.. so i totally get the need for using c-channels. But anyway what do you believe it is that causes perfectly dry wood to move, changes in relative humidity? Drying stress? I mean there’s plenty of airflow on both the top and bottom of a table top, and with an equal amount of finish on both sides, uneven moisture changes seems unlikely. Oh and dry wood tend to be very stable in it’s moisture content despite rapid change in RH. i get readings of 8% mc pretty much all year around in my slabs, but still, every once in a while, a table top slab seems to just spontaneously cup, for no apparent reason. Sorry for the long winded question, i guess it would be interesting to hear your thoughts about it. Since slab tables are expensive to make, and this is the kind of thing woodworkers can get in pretty big trouble for, if they’re either reckless and use wet wood, or just unlucky and made a table from a seemingly dry slab, that somehow decided to cup.
Im literally dealing with that exact same thing and cant find or figure away to keep my bar top flat even with C-channel installed
Even with perfectly dried wood, a table is usually exposed to sunlight on the top, or a heater vent on the bottom kinda things, so for big slabs even those small things can have an impact. I believe usng these will help keep your tables flat over years of movement. Will they fix a table that is really gonna move no, some wood is like that but most of the time it's not dried fully / correctly to move that much. This is why it's important to know where your lumber comes from, that it is a consistent source of quality dried lumber.
How many c channels do you recommend per table top, by size etc..?
7' and down 2, 8' to 10' 3, 11'+ more.....LOL
Are you using a spiral up cut bit?
Just added some links to the description, yes a down cut is best but we use up cut all the time too (-:
Canadian Woodworks Thanks, but as I understand it, the benefits of an up-cut spiral bit is better chip ejection and faster feed rates, while down-cut spiral bits excel at cleaner top surfaces (I.e., the bottom of the table top in this case). Wouldn’t it make more sense to use an up-cut bit in this particular case because most of the slot will be hidden by the C channel?
@@billk.7889 yes it would
what that size for c chanel?
Where can I buy wood to make cutting boards In ontario?
Depends on where you're located, we have deals all over Ontario
Rob @ Concept 13 in Mississauga
Rob @ Stone City in Bath
Jesse @ Burnt Brydges in Stratford
Riley @ Anderson Woodworking in Powassan
Dan & Trevor @ Defined Lumber in London
John & Ryan @ Love Your Wood in Waterdown
Hope someone is close to you. They should have everything you need!
@@CanadianWoodworks hey, I am in the GTA and these area are within my reach
@@CanadianWoodworks thanks. Much appreciated
hey guys, why did you disappear?
Getting back to it now
yeah but how'd you make the jig. haha
conceptthirteen.ca/collections/c-channel/products/c-channel-jig
No video in 3 months . Hope everything is ok
Hi, we are okay here, hope the same for you,Thanks!