Just saw this for the first time. I have a tabletop made from beautiful hardwood boxcar flooring that I glued and screwed maple crosspieces to for support and for leg attachment. After 6 months, it twisted into a Pringles chip. Wish I saw this first! Thank you.
I installed my first pair of C-Channels today from bidwellwood. I was pretty impressed with the quality! I was honestly a bit nervous about the operation (not a lot of router experience), but I took my time setting up, made several passes. and it worked out really well. Thanks for this tutorial! It really made the whole thing way easier.
TIP ... at time 8:39 if you screw the insert into the wood without glue first then remove it and use thin CA glue to coat the threads , let dry . The threads into the wood will be very strong . I found this out building RC airplanes. I also found that while applying CA glue the way you did , the glue will dry very fast and it will sometimes be hard to get the insert completely into the wood before the glue set up. But beautiful job on the top
@@jimmyz1686 ... Thin CA glue is used to strengthen the threads. Screw the bolt into the wood making the treads then remove it Now, use thin CA glue in the hole , let dry ! Then screw in the bolt for very strong fit.
First of all, this video is timeless and very helpfyll. You're the first to talk about cleaning the steel...good tip. Unrelated...how do record in your shop without echo. Your audio is fantastic. I've been trying a lot of things and failing miserably😊
Hi, great video and explanations. I have a bamboo slab (69x39 and 1,5" thick) installed 8 years ago on a kitchen island. It started to warp in the last 2-3 years. I tryied a few tricks, like a wet towel to return it flat. It works but it warps again and even worst then before. We do oil it but we forgot to oil the underside. Can I install the C channels and bring it back flat using the water towel and tighten everything up? Also, on a 1,5" thick, how deep should I go to or what size of a C channel should I use? Thanks a million
The c channel also protects your joints. Just because you glued them together doesn't mean the bond was 100%, even if you got good coverage. When me & my dad were making my custom desktop from solid alder, we lopped off one end, & actually removed some of the joint in order to get the length I wanted. It was no big deal, as it barely showed after some decent sanding, so for a little fun we set them on the ground & beat the shit out of them with a hammer to see what failed first. The joint or the glue. Obviously, the joint busted open until we got to the last one, & no matter how hard we hit that wood, it wouldn't give. Installing c channels is an excellent way to insure your joints never fail, if something ever happens, like you accidentally drop the desktop on the ground, then you won't have to worry about a joint failing. The c channel holds them together~
Hello, I would like to know what dimensions it is recommended to have the part that goes into the wood depending on the thickness of the table top? For example, with a 4 cm table top, which model of C Channels should I use? I also attached a photo in which I specified the part inserted into the wood. Thank you and I await your answer!
This is interesting , i have 25.. ply with a bonded 14 manmade floor on top total 40 mm when bonded , what size channel would make a difference do you think? i was looking for a 15 x 40 mm channel . It is to cover a 830 mm span hatch will be walked on so i don't want flex.
Great video Brandon, I'm currently working on my first kitchen table and I'm in the process of putting in these C-channels, but I'm concerned about how they may reduce the strength of the overall table. I understand that these help control warping and twisting, but should I be concerned about how these channels may weaken the table? Specifically on the ends of the table, where the legs are on the inside of the channels. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
They would increase the strength of the table. They're steel structural members. They'd only be weak in a twisting direction, which a table top would only experience with greatly imbalanced loads across the different legs, and even then, it's so unlikely you'll have a moment that would twist two opposite edges in different directions without super uneven floors or some weird loading condition.
Hey Brandon, thanks for the great video. I’m new in my woodworking journey and was just curious if I routed the tops of my legs which have a 80mm x 4mm thick steel flat bar connecting them would it have the same effect?
Yes that's correct. I in fact do have a video of that haha. As wel as one on how to make legs! ruclips.net/video/J7Z69COtzzw/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/ikw_bxkdEAk/видео.html
Brandon - I'm working on a 14'x 4'6" black walnut boardroom table and have ordered 4 channels. Do you think it is enough? Is there a rule of thumb for the number of channels?
But how about the question in the title of this video: do you NEED them. Do they actually prevent warping of the wood? And if so, what is the contribution of the C-channel and what of the cut you made for the C-channel?
The top is what needs them, and yes some tables really do. Also it is one of those things, do you want to wait and see that you did need them, or install them and never be an issue. The c channel is metal and does not warp and bend like wood does. So that is the point of it, to be rigid and not let the boards do what they want, aka ruin your top/table. A big top made of wood can not be thin, so the cut out is fine. If you try for a real thin top, then you are asking for failures down the road, warping/splitting. Have to be real careful with moisture, etc. Do you NEED it, no totally. Will it make your tables better and last longer? Almost 100% on that. There are a few times where you get the perfect wood that has no moisture and barely move, but those are rare and not the norm.
@@Cor97 no problem, there are exceptions to every rule and each wood has it's own needs. So diff methods can be used, like doing a wood trim. Just the bigger the slab the higher chance for warping so bigger need for support/c-chan.
Hmmm… why not set the depth for the channel AND the flathead screw we’re using to to attach to the slab, to avoid spacing issues with flat surface mount or to prevent mounting issues with legs should they overlap.
Does the fixing in the middle weaken the worktop? at this point the tabletop is cut across almost half the thickness, won't it start to sag in the middle over time?
Excellent. Came here trying to figure out how I can stop unpainted 3/4” plywood cabinet doors from warping. Considering a small steel C channel on the inside. Any thoughts? Thank you
would you recommend a piece length wise as well as the pieces you laid? In my instance at ~7' apart legs with a 2" slab desk. Thinking about making a grid arrangement of channel to inlay but maybe over engineering? thanks for any feedback!
Do you think yous guys at Bidwell could make a C channel that attaches to the top horizontal of a leg assembly (for a table or desk top), on center, and also has offset holes to attach to the desk/table top to keep it flat? that would be kind of cool
Great video. What is the purpose of the inserts for the screws? Wouldn't the screws into the wood itself allow for the movement of wood over the seasons?
I also use inserts to fit table legs. They also provide the perfect solution allowing you to unscrew to move the table where the space to move (say thorough a doorway) to another location. Additionally, there is less chance of the wood splitting, thereby providing a more secure binding.
Love the craftsmanship and thanks for the explanation. I don't quite understand the reason you do this. I've made a lot of tables over 6ft jointed maple, walnut, etc and glue and dowels do a fine job of keeping the boards level. Is this to just provide more structural integrity for cupping? If so, how do you manage this for smaller width boards in relation to your c-channel, or do you just make sure your board widths ensure each board will be screwed into the c-channel?
Great video, very clear and helpful. I am thinking about making a 7' x 4' walnut table (6" wide boards) that allows for the insertion of two 20" extensions, which means that the table would be cut in in half across the grain and have a sliding mechanism bolted underneath along the long dimensions with the grain. So each half of the table would be about 42" long by 48" wide. Do you think a C Channel on each side would be needed in this setup?
I am building a table and plan on using c channels. My table will be 5 1/2 ft long and 39 inches wide and 1.25 inches thick. How deep should the c channels go? how much wood should there be from the bottom of the c channel to the table top so it does not loose strength
Great video thanks for posting. One question, do you need to have a slot/bolt for every board in the table? Is it best to have to bolt in the middle of every board? If so, does your c channel supplier allow for custom spacing of the slots? Thanks again.
Okay I'm lost.... you buy standard c channel from the steel yard? What guage? What do you do to put the elongated holes in it? Or is it a product that comes ready? Name?
I’m building a white oak table 46” w x 9’ long (total length will include breadboard ends). Thickness will be 1” but I’ll be adding some 1”x2” edges to give it a thicker appearance. Do you think it’s necessary to have c channels if I have breadboard ends?
If the table top is quite thin (20mm) can the C channel NOT be recessed, and be installed up the other way? Is the recessing for aesthetic reasons only? Or a structural reason?
hey great video thanks for the info. I was thinking of building a desk out of 1.5 inch thick by 8 feet walnut butcher block. Would you recommend a few c channels for a butcher block or because its made up of tons of smaller pieces of wood I should be good?
Thanks for the great video. I am near completion of birch counter top, 36" x 90" for a kitchen island. Per your video, I would like to install three or four C channels. Help!! I checked Bidwell Company to order, and they said they only have one clamp 22" ... none of man many sizes are available. I see no evidence from the site that backorders are available. Do you have any other suggestions companies/places to order a similar quality C channel? Thank you!
Looks like they are back in stock! Here is the link to the 3/4" leg ones. Depending how thick your top is, if its 1-1/2" thick or larger the 3/4" leg will work great. if its thinner you may want to get the 1/2" leg. Be sure to use my code "WALKER" at checkout for 10% off anything on the site! bidwellwoodandiron.com/products/channel-2-0-plus?variant=42290200150253
Great video. Thanks for all the information! I have what may be a silly question. We are building a desk - 96" long and 26" deep. We have a great set of large industrial t-style legs and want to add additional support using C-Channels. Do the channels go across the 26" or 96" side? If 96", how long should the channel be? What is the difference of going along the width versus depth? The desktop will be solid wood. Our options are limited, but it could end up being a bamboo slab. Thanks for any guidance.
I would put them across the 26" width. Probably go with 22" if your slab is over 1.5" thick I would go with the 3/4" leg channel. www.bidwellwoodandiron.com has some awesome new laser cut powder coated channel. If you use my code (walker10) You can save 10% on anything from the website. They carry quite a few woodworking supplies now and are great people. Hope that helps! If you have any other questions feel free to email me. brandon@walkersww.com
I'm hoping you can help me. I bought a beech wood table top online, stained and matte oiled. The seller showed the top at 45 x 24 with metal plates (or battens, about 1/2 width and 22 inches long on the short edge of the table top) about 5 inches in underneath on both ends and one metal batten in the center. Similar to your c-channels but they seem flat and the screws leave no wiggle room for movement. My top arrived with only 2 "metal battens" instead of 3, with each on the ends, not center. The underside of the table top has a rough area that's uneven, I don't know the proper term and there are some cracks coming from it but only on the underside. On the top side it looks like a beginning of a large knot. I'm wondering if I should be concerned and return it? It won't be easy for me to do that, but I don't want to see anything happen to this tabletop after I go through the effort of attaching legs.
20mm (3/4 of an inch) thick round table top 60 " diamater. would c channel work to hold it from bowing? worried only leaving 5mm rough of material on the top of the table that it may break off by the time i cut the slot for the c channel. thoughts? or other ideas to hold it flat?
Go to bidwellwood.com and they have channel with 1/2" leg. It's OK to not recess it also so you don't have to take out so much. Be sure to use my code walker10 to get 10% off channel and hardware! 😁
Hello, i have made tabel top (oak) 40inch wide and 80 long, and thikness is 1.5 inch. Dray wood about 8%. Is it crucial to use C channels? And is there any other option to chose instaed of C channel and braedbord to keep tabel top stable. Thank tou in advance
This is probably a stupid question but I thought I would ask just to make sure. I am going to be making a 36" long murphy desk that comes down from the wall. I think it is going to be a bit long to hold its rigidity. So I was thinking that this idea might work. Will C Channel being laid perpendicular to the length of the boards keep the desk from bending the farther it extends? I was thinking that laying the C channel parallel with the boards would give me a better result.
Hi. I dont get something. You crosscut with the router two rather deep channels in parallel, at a mere 2-3”from each other. Then you mount an insert into the top 1” or less. Once tension rises in the wood, doesnt it just rip a chunk out between the two channels considering wood splits in that dimension pretty easy? I mean its just a two inch long piece if wood where the screw and insert applies all the pulling force, and the steel of course cant buckle. And if it doesnt split: doesnt that mean that the channel is not needed, as cupping force is insignificant/it doesnt cup anyway?? Thanx
@@WalkersWoodworks So if you had coffee tables that were under 5' you think it would be safe not to use them, I only ask because I haven't usually done smaller tables I'm wondering if I could go without using them
Have you ever put them on the top side of a table? I am in the process of designing and building a metal strap table. But I kind of like the looks of the c-channel and not going around the table top.
Can I ask why you used inserts rather than just timber screws? Interesting you put in a c channel - most videos say glue is enough. Hard to know as a beginner! Thanks mate
Great video, Brandon. Thanks. We agree on at least 2 things. I don't care for breadboard ends either. The ends only align with the edges of the top once - when they're first installed. I also don't use many hand tools. What are your thoughts on the Makita track saw? I'm considering buying one in the fall. Stay well and happy. Bill
Great video. You might wanna use a drill guide, next time, so you make the holes for the threaded inserts straight. It looked like you were going on at an angle there bud.
Thank you for these videos. Amateur here just getting started. Any thoughts on using a wood batten in combination with these inserts and longer bolts? I would use the same hole layouts. I have extra hardwood laying around. I know the steel wood flex less. 1.75" Black Walnut boards. Thanks. 52"x84" Table top.
Hey there, I have a question. I’m making a 3.5’ x 7’ dining table from a single 3” slab of white oak and I’m definitely going to use C channel (probably 4 c channels)! Is it better if i build the table top so that the end grain looks like a ‘frown’ instead of a ‘smily face’ because I assume that the slab will want to warp/twist in the same direction as the end grain? Therefore, if/when it does warp it will be pushing down on the steel c channels instead of (if the board was built flipped over) pulling on the threaded inserts and bolts. It seems to me the scenario of pushing on the c channel would better take advantage of the steel. Any thoughts? Thanks!!
Great video man. So basically the c channel helps prevent the table top from sagging in the middle right? Im guessing especially if there are no aprons connected to the legs. Thanks again for making this video!
Can I install 1/2in thick C Channel in 1in thick Maple? This seems to only leave a 1/4in of thickness left after routing the bottom and I feel like this is not good. But 1/2in C channel was all that I could find on the website you recommended. Can I proceed with this 1/2 thick C channel or should I find thinner C-CHannel somewhere? Thanks for the video
1/2" should be fine in my opinion. But I don't usually put it in anything less than 1-1/2" thick. Maybe just don't recess the flat part. Just let it sit against the bottom and rout in the legs of the channel. I've done that before.
Have you ever tried aluminum C channel rather than steel? I dont know the rigidity differences specifically, but it seems like it would provide support to smaller tables (coffee or dining size)
Yep I get all my channel at www.bidwellwoodandiron.com as well as the inserts and hardware. They also sell a lot of other stuff there too and you can get 10% off everything by using my code walker10 Hope that helps out! Have a good one.
My parents have a large 8 seater dining table made from PNG rosewood. It cupped when moved back to australia as I don’t think the wood was seasoned well. It was poorly repaired and has cupped again. How can I make it flat again without removing material before installing c channel? It’d be a bad idea to expect the inserts and screws to pull it flat without tearing out.
Be sure to check out my website for other Projects, Blog posts, Plans and Tools I use! Walkersww.com
i realize it is pretty off topic but does anyone know of a good site to watch new tv shows online?
Just saw this for the first time. I have a tabletop made from beautiful hardwood boxcar flooring that I glued and screwed maple crosspieces to for support and for leg attachment. After 6 months, it twisted into a Pringles chip. Wish I saw this first! Thank you.
I installed my first pair of C-Channels today from bidwellwood. I was pretty impressed with the quality! I was honestly a bit nervous about the operation (not a lot of router experience), but I took my time setting up, made several passes. and it worked out really well.
Thanks for this tutorial! It really made the whole thing way easier.
That's awesome! Thanks for watching!
TIP ... at time 8:39 if you screw the insert into the wood without glue first then remove it and use thin CA glue to coat the threads , let dry .
The threads into the wood will be very strong . I found this out building RC airplanes. I also found that while applying CA glue the way you did , the glue will dry very fast and it will sometimes be hard to get the insert completely into the wood before the glue set up. But beautiful job on the top
why is the glue even needed?
@@jimmyz1686 ... Thin CA glue is used to strengthen the threads. Screw the bolt into the wood making the treads then remove it Now, use thin CA glue in the hole , let dry ! Then screw in the bolt for very strong fit.
I used your link to Bidwell Wood and Iron and started a chat with them...AT 10pm ON A SUNDAY. First rate customer service!
First of all, this video is timeless and very helpfyll. You're the first to talk about cleaning the steel...good tip. Unrelated...how do record in your shop without echo. Your audio is fantastic. I've been trying a lot of things and failing miserably😊
Hi, great video and explanations. I have a bamboo slab (69x39 and 1,5" thick) installed 8 years ago on a kitchen island. It started to warp in the last 2-3 years. I tryied a few tricks, like a wet towel to return it flat. It works but it warps again and even worst then before. We do oil it but we forgot to oil the underside. Can I install the C channels and bring it back flat using the water towel and tighten everything up? Also, on a 1,5" thick, how deep should I go to or what size of a C channel should I use?
Thanks a million
The c channel also protects your joints. Just because you glued them together doesn't mean the bond was 100%, even if you got good coverage. When me & my dad were making my custom desktop from solid alder, we lopped off one end, & actually removed some of the joint in order to get the length I wanted. It was no big deal, as it barely showed after some decent sanding, so for a little fun we set them on the ground & beat the shit out of them with a hammer to see what failed first. The joint or the glue. Obviously, the joint busted open until we got to the last one, & no matter how hard we hit that wood, it wouldn't give. Installing c channels is an excellent way to insure your joints never fail, if something ever happens, like you accidentally drop the desktop on the ground, then you won't have to worry about a joint failing. The c channel holds them together~
Great! That's just like I did it myself. I cannot understand how people may unlike these videos
Haha who knows. I appreciate the support!
Hello,
I would like to know what dimensions it is recommended to have the part that goes into the wood depending on the thickness of the table top? For example, with a 4 cm table top, which model of C Channels should I use? I also attached a photo in which I specified the part inserted into the wood.
Thank you and I await your answer!
This is interesting , i have 25.. ply with a bonded 14 manmade floor on top total 40 mm when bonded , what size channel would make a difference do you think? i was looking for a 15 x 40 mm channel . It is to cover a 830 mm span hatch will be walked on so i don't want flex.
Great video Brandon, I'm currently working on my first kitchen table and I'm in the process of putting in these C-channels, but I'm concerned about how they may reduce the strength of the overall table. I understand that these help control warping and twisting, but should I be concerned about how these channels may weaken the table? Specifically on the ends of the table, where the legs are on the inside of the channels. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
They would increase the strength of the table. They're steel structural members. They'd only be weak in a twisting direction, which a table top would only experience with greatly imbalanced loads across the different legs, and even then, it's so unlikely you'll have a moment that would twist two opposite edges in different directions without super uneven floors or some weird loading condition.
Thank you! Saves me from asking you a thousand questions that I am sure you have already answered! Continue the awesome vids!
Haha thanks!!!
The best video I've seen yet. Very well done and very clear
Thanks so much!
Hey Brandon, thanks for the great video. I’m new in my woodworking journey and was just curious if I routed the tops of my legs which have a 80mm x 4mm thick steel flat bar connecting them would it have the same effect?
Super helpful video, so THANK YOU! How do you determine which size of channel you need for the table?
Where can I get that threaded insert installation tool you used?
Great video! Can you please comment, What do you think, will L-profile steel be effective with same task?
It would not be as ridgid.
Is there any purpose to the inserts? Is there any benefit as opposed to using regular wood screws?
They are much stronger
Great video. So the C channel ensures the table top remains flat? Do you have a video whereby you attach legs to the table top?
Yes that's correct. I in fact do have a video of that haha. As wel as one on how to make legs! ruclips.net/video/J7Z69COtzzw/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/ikw_bxkdEAk/видео.html
Thanks for this video! Question, why are the threaded inserts necessary? Could you use a screw/washer and distribute the pressure similarly? Thanks!
Brandon - I'm working on a 14'x 4'6" black walnut boardroom table and have ordered 4 channels. Do you think it is enough? Is there a rule of thumb for the number of channels?
But how about the question in the title of this video: do you NEED them. Do they actually prevent warping of the wood? And if so, what is the contribution of the C-channel and what of the cut you made for the C-channel?
The top is what needs them, and yes some tables really do. Also it is one of those things, do you want to wait and see that you did need them, or install them and never be an issue. The c channel is metal and does not warp and bend like wood does. So that is the point of it, to be rigid and not let the boards do what they want, aka ruin your top/table. A big top made of wood can not be thin, so the cut out is fine. If you try for a real thin top, then you are asking for failures down the road, warping/splitting. Have to be real careful with moisture, etc.
Do you NEED it, no totally. Will it make your tables better and last longer? Almost 100% on that. There are a few times where you get the perfect wood that has no moisture and barely move, but those are rare and not the norm.
@@SirCanuckelhead Thanks
@@Cor97 no problem, there are exceptions to every rule and each wood has it's own needs. So diff methods can be used, like doing a wood trim. Just the bigger the slab the higher chance for warping so bigger need for support/c-chan.
Nice tutorial. Try using your chisel bevel down for a bit, you tend to get better control
Good tip! I'll try that. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Hmmm… why not set the depth for the channel AND the flathead screw we’re using to to attach to the slab, to avoid spacing issues with flat surface mount or to prevent mounting issues with legs should they overlap.
Could you use use 3/16, or 1/4" flat bar, instead of c channel? Thanks
Tried it, 1/4 X 2 inch stainless steel, The steel bends.
Does the fixing in the middle weaken the worktop? at this point the tabletop is cut across almost half the thickness, won't it start to sag in the middle over time?
same question. i would imagine this makes that section very weak as you pretty much scored through a large portion of the wood.
How thick does your top need to be for c channels? Would you install it in a 1.25" thick top or do you it to be thicker?
I’ve done it on 3/4” tops. Just have to get the right size channel.
Phenomenal video as always. Thank you!
Will a skirt board around the tabletop control seasonal movement?
Not likely
Excellent. Came here trying to figure out how I can stop unpainted 3/4” plywood cabinet doors from warping. Considering a small steel C channel on the inside. Any thoughts? Thank you
Might work. 👍
would you recommend a piece length wise as well as the pieces you laid? In my instance at ~7' apart legs with a 2" slab desk. Thinking about making a grid arrangement of channel to inlay but maybe over engineering? thanks for any feedback!
I'd use stretchers on the base for that.
Do you think yous guys at Bidwell could make a C channel that attaches to the top horizontal of a leg assembly (for a table or desk top), on center, and also has offset holes to attach to the desk/table top to keep it flat? that would be kind of cool
Ya probably so.
can i use half inch C channel for an 1.5in thick tabletop
Yes that should be fine
Great video. What is the purpose of the inserts for the screws? Wouldn't the screws into the wood itself allow for the movement of wood over the seasons?
The inserts allow you to use the flathead screws and are much stronger.
I also use inserts to fit table legs. They also provide the perfect solution allowing you to unscrew to move the table where the space to move (say thorough a doorway) to another location. Additionally, there is less chance of the wood splitting, thereby providing a more secure binding.
Love the craftsmanship and thanks for the explanation. I don't quite understand the reason you do this. I've made a lot of tables over 6ft jointed maple, walnut, etc and glue and dowels do a fine job of keeping the boards level. Is this to just provide more structural integrity for cupping? If so, how do you manage this for smaller width boards in relation to your c-channel, or do you just make sure your board widths ensure each board will be screwed into the c-channel?
Yep just a little extra insurance. Especially on tables that dont hve a full apron to anchor to. But even when they do I still do channel. 👍
Great video, very clear and helpful. I am thinking about making a 7' x 4' walnut table (6" wide boards) that allows for the insertion of two 20" extensions, which means that the table would be cut in in half across the grain and have a sliding mechanism bolted underneath along the long dimensions with the grain. So each half of the table would be about 42" long by 48" wide. Do you think a C Channel on each side would be needed in this setup?
That's what I would do. Check the description for a link to some good channel and hardware. 👍
I am building a table and plan on using c channels. My table will be 5 1/2 ft long and 39 inches wide and 1.25 inches thick. How deep should the c channels go? how much wood should there be from the bottom of the c channel to the table top so it does not loose strength
Very good advice and demonstration 😊
Great video thanks for posting. One question, do you need to have a slot/bolt for every board in the table? Is it best to have to bolt in the middle of every board? If so, does your c channel supplier allow for custom spacing of the slots? Thanks again.
It doesn't really matter. If you get the channel from Bidwell (in the description) they come with precut slots. 👍
Thanks! I bought c channel from a hardware store and plan on milling the slots. I’m sure I’ll end up buying the ones with pre-cut slots next time.
Okay I'm lost.... you buy standard c channel from the steel yard? What guage? What do you do to put the elongated holes in it? Or is it a product that comes ready? Name?
Check the description you can get it ready to go from bidwellwood.com and use the code Walker10 for a discount 👍 they even have the rampa hardware.
In England so need to find equivalent. What is the name or size of the C Chanel.
Thank you Brandon, very informative and alot of help. Until next time. *Chris*
Thanks for watching!!
Well done! Thanks for the video and the links.
Hello, can you tell me where you purchased your c channel, i have not bee able to locate it , and what size did you use ? thank you in advance
I’m building a white oak table 46” w x 9’ long (total length will include breadboard ends). Thickness will be 1” but I’ll be adding some 1”x2” edges to give it a thicker appearance. Do you think it’s necessary to have c channels if I have breadboard ends?
No they should take care of it.
If the table top is quite thin (20mm) can the C channel NOT be recessed, and be installed up the other way? Is the recessing for aesthetic reasons only? Or a structural reason?
hey great video thanks for the info. I was thinking of building a desk out of 1.5 inch thick by 8 feet walnut butcher block. Would you recommend a few c channels for a butcher block or because its made up of tons of smaller pieces of wood I should be good?
Where can I get the insert installation tool you used?
Do we use glue to fix the C-Channels to the table top? will the glue or epoxy add extra strength to the C-Channels in preventing cupping of the wood?
Definitely don't do that. It needs to be able to move as the wood expands and contracts.
Great video and content as usual 👍...thanks for the tag 👊
Thanks for making awesome inserts!
Thanks for the great video. I am near completion of birch counter top, 36" x 90" for a kitchen island. Per your video, I would like to install three or four C channels. Help!! I checked Bidwell Company to order, and they said they only have one clamp 22" ... none of man many sizes are available. I see no evidence from the site that backorders are available. Do you have any other suggestions companies/places to order a similar quality C channel? Thank you!
Looks like they are back in stock! Here is the link to the 3/4" leg ones. Depending how thick your top is, if its 1-1/2" thick or larger the 3/4" leg will work great. if its thinner you may want to get the 1/2" leg. Be sure to use my code "WALKER" at checkout for 10% off anything on the site! bidwellwoodandiron.com/products/channel-2-0-plus?variant=42290200150253
Great video. Thanks for all the information! I have what may be a silly question. We are building a desk - 96" long and 26" deep. We have a great set of large industrial t-style legs and want to add additional support using C-Channels. Do the channels go across the 26" or 96" side? If 96", how long should the channel be? What is the difference of going along the width versus depth? The desktop will be solid wood. Our options are limited, but it could end up being a bamboo slab. Thanks for any guidance.
I would put them across the 26" width. Probably go with 22" if your slab is over 1.5" thick I would go with the 3/4" leg channel. www.bidwellwoodandiron.com has some awesome new laser cut powder coated channel. If you use my code (walker10) You can save 10% on anything from the website. They carry quite a few woodworking supplies now and are great people. Hope that helps! If you have any other questions feel free to email me. brandon@walkersww.com
@@WalkersWoodworks Thank so much!
Do you purchase the C Channel with the wide holes already cut, or do you cut the holes yourself?
He punches them before he breaks the channel.
I'm hoping you can help me. I bought a beech wood table top online, stained and matte oiled. The seller showed the top at 45 x 24 with metal plates (or battens, about 1/2 width and 22 inches long on the short edge of the table top) about 5 inches in underneath on both ends and one metal batten in the center. Similar to your c-channels but they seem flat and the screws leave no wiggle room for movement.
My top arrived with only 2 "metal battens" instead of 3, with each on the ends, not center. The underside of the table top has a rough area that's uneven, I don't know the proper term and there are some cracks coming from it but only on the underside. On the top side it looks like a beginning of a large knot.
I'm wondering if I should be concerned and return it?
It won't be easy for me to do that, but I don't want to see anything happen to this tabletop after I go through the effort of attaching legs.
20mm (3/4 of an inch) thick round table top 60 " diamater. would c channel work to hold it from bowing? worried only leaving 5mm rough of material on the top of the table that it may break off by the time i cut the slot for the c channel. thoughts? or other ideas to hold it flat?
Go to bidwellwood.com and they have channel with 1/2" leg. It's OK to not recess it also so you don't have to take out so much. Be sure to use my code walker10 to get 10% off channel and hardware! 😁
I’m building an 8 ft long barn wood table top with bread board ends . Is there still some utility to adding c channels?
Would a straight steel bar work as well?
Just placing it on The surface?
I’m wondering for a Long piece of art.
Hello, i have made tabel top (oak) 40inch wide and 80 long, and thikness is 1.5 inch. Dray wood about 8%. Is it crucial to use C channels? And is there any other option to chose instaed of C channel and braedbord to keep tabel top stable. Thank tou in advance
This video helped me out so much! Thank you!
This is probably a stupid question but I thought I would ask just to make sure. I am going to be making a 36" long murphy desk that comes down from the wall. I think it is going to be a bit long to hold its rigidity. So I was thinking that this idea might work. Will C Channel being laid perpendicular to the length of the boards keep the desk from bending the farther it extends? I was thinking that laying the C channel parallel with the boards would give me a better result.
That definitely would help strengthen it. 👍
Hi.
I dont get something.
You crosscut with the router two rather deep channels in parallel, at a mere 2-3”from each other.
Then you mount an insert into the top 1” or less.
Once tension rises in the wood, doesnt it just rip a chunk out between the two channels considering wood splits in that dimension pretty easy? I mean its just a two inch long piece if wood where the screw and insert applies all the pulling force, and the steel of course cant buckle.
And if it doesnt split: doesnt that mean that the channel is not needed, as cupping force is insignificant/it doesnt cup anyway??
Thanx
100% agree with no bread boards! Definitely a great idea! Thanks for sharing! Subscribed.
Haha glad I'm not the only one
New to live edge slabs. Is it necessary to use C Chanel for 16“ wide slabs, that sit on 13 tube steel U shaped legs?
You mentioned that you put them in about 12" from the ends. How much space from the sides do you leave?
About 3"
Excellent video! Thank you.
Thank you for watching! Don't forget to check the video description for the link to the c channel 👍
Is there a general size where you decide whether it needs to use them or not I'm thinking if a tables under around 3' feet it wouldn't require it
Usually anything 6ft and up I use them.
@@WalkersWoodworks So if you had coffee tables that were under 5' you think it would be safe not to use them, I only ask because I haven't usually done smaller tables I'm wondering if I could go without using them
How much space do you leave on either side of the c channel to the edge of the table?
About 3"
For the Rampa screws you use did you mean L -20? and D-15? Trying to order some now and not finding the combo you listed. Thanks in advance!
They are listed in the description. 👍 should be M6 15 length skd330
hello can you tell me where you purchased your c channel ? thank you
Have you ever put them on the top side of a table? I am in the process of designing and building a metal strap table. But I kind of like the looks of the c-channel and not going around the table top.
I haven't. But I like where this is headed!
For 1in 1/4 thick table top do you think 1/2in deep c channel will be too deep or should I look for 1/4in deep c channel?
The 1/2" leg would be fine. You don't have to recess it if you don't want. Just cut the slots for the legs.
At what width and length do you add a c channel? I do most behind the couch type tables 14-24 “ wide by 42-48” long thx
Great video! Quick question. How thick do you normally make your table tops?
Usually 1-3/4"
Can you use this method to straighten a top? I have a 4’x6’x2” with ~3/8” bow
Can I ask why you used inserts rather than just timber screws? Interesting you put in a c channel - most videos say glue is enough. Hard to know as a beginner! Thanks mate
C channel is there to keep the table flat and not to hold the table top together.
Great video, Brandon. Thanks. We agree on at least 2 things. I don't care for breadboard ends either. The ends only align with the edges of the top once - when they're first installed. I also don't use many hand tools. What are your thoughts on the Makita track saw? I'm considering buying one in the fall. Stay well and happy. Bill
I love my track saw. One of my favorite tools for sure! I do think I want to get the larger festool one though for slabs.
@@WalkersWoodworks The 75 is a beast. I've had mine for since the early-ish 2000s
what is the thickness of the C channel
Great video. You might wanna use a drill guide, next time, so you make the holes for the threaded inserts straight. It looked like you were going on at an angle there bud.
Thank you for these videos. Amateur here just getting started. Any thoughts on using a wood batten in combination with these inserts and longer bolts? I would use the same hole layouts. I have extra hardwood laying around. I know the steel wood flex less. 1.75" Black Walnut boards. Thanks. 52"x84" Table top.
Ya the wood would help but like you said not like the steel.
Hey there, I have a question. I’m making a 3.5’ x 7’ dining table from a single 3” slab of white oak and I’m definitely going to use C channel (probably 4 c channels)! Is it better if i build the table top so that the end grain looks like a ‘frown’ instead of a ‘smily face’ because I assume that the slab will want to warp/twist in the same direction as the end grain? Therefore, if/when it does warp it will be pushing down on the steel c channels instead of (if the board was built flipped over) pulling on the threaded inserts and bolts. It seems to me the scenario of pushing on the c channel would better take advantage of the steel. Any thoughts? Thanks!!
I'd face the side down that may cup. But as long as the wood is dried properly you shouldn't have much of an issue.
Hi! My IKEA table top is currently sagging, will this work to re-bend it to shape?
It may help but I would use something stronger to actually support it.
@@WalkersWoodworks Do you think a leg would support it? I currently have a about 30 lbs on it.
Please tell me - why use threaded inserts and not just screws?
Much stronger
Great video man. So basically the c channel helps prevent the table top from sagging in the middle right? Im guessing especially if there are no aprons connected to the legs. Thanks again for making this video!
Yea or cupping.
Whats the difference if you use flat bar or angle bar? Rather than c channel
The channel is more rigid.
Excellent. I subscribed and clicked the "All" bell
Can I install 1/2in thick C Channel in 1in thick Maple? This seems to only leave a 1/4in of thickness left after routing the bottom and I feel like this is not good. But 1/2in C channel was all that I could find on the website you recommended. Can I proceed with this 1/2 thick C channel or should I find thinner C-CHannel somewhere? Thanks for the video
1/2" should be fine in my opinion. But I don't usually put it in anything less than 1-1/2" thick. Maybe just don't recess the flat part. Just let it sit against the bottom and rout in the legs of the channel. I've done that before.
@@WalkersWoodworks Ok thanks. Also is there place to find C channel with 1/4in legs and holes already drilled? Or is 1/2in the smallest C Channel ?
The problem is we bend the metal after the holes are cut and the smallest we can bend is 1/2"
@@WalkersWoodworks I see thanks for your help
Just ordered the same threaded inserts for this C-Channel. What size Forstner bit did you use?
I believe it was 3/8"
I didn't see the c-channel listed on the amb site. Do they only sell it in-person
Just shoot them an email. It's kind of a new product but if you contact them with what you need they will definitely get it out to ya!
You ever used tapped wood instead of the inserts? I'm going to do that today and see how it goes. I don't like inserts if I can avoid them
Yes but the inserts are much stronger
Have you ever tried aluminum C channel rather than steel? I dont know the rigidity differences specifically, but it seems like it would provide support to smaller tables (coffee or dining size)
Good
Where do you buy these c channels ? Edit I found in your description
Yep I get all my channel at www.bidwellwoodandiron.com as well as the inserts and hardware. They also sell a lot of other stuff there too and you can get 10% off everything by using my code walker10 Hope that helps out! Have a good one.
@@WalkersWoodworks thanks a lot man appreciate it
Thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks for watching!
My parents have a large 8 seater dining table made from PNG rosewood. It cupped when moved back to australia as I don’t think the wood was seasoned well. It was poorly repaired and has cupped again. How can I make it flat again without removing material before installing c channel? It’d be a bad idea to expect the inserts and screws to pull it flat without tearing out.
You really can't unfortunately. It will need to be resurfaced.
My hardware store doesn’t have C Channel. Wondering if flat steel would do the trick?
Visit bidwellwood.com and use my code walker10 👍
Great video handsome Brando!
😂😂 thanks Sam.
does this help with bowed table with epoxy in the middle?
I definitely put them in epoxy tables.
And where do you buy c channels?
Well done!
How does putting the bars across the width stop the wood sagging length ways?
It doesn't. That would be done with the base either with aprons or stretchers between legs or pedestals.
@@WalkersWoodworks would it be a huge mistake to use c channel along the length of a table that has a plywood base?