Greg Long: Big Wave Rider | Nat Geo Live
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- In 2012, international surfing champion Greg Long set out to ride the biggest wave of his life. The monster wave nearly killed him. To truly recover, Long knew that he had to face the wave once more.
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Greg Long: Big Wave Rider | Nat Geo Live
• Greg Long: Big Wave Ri...
National Geographic
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![Full Movie: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing - Greg Long, Gary Linden, Todd Glaser [HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L-sF4nC-g0o/mqdefault.jpg)
![Full Movie: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing - Greg Long, Gary Linden, Todd Glaser [HD]](/img/tr.png)
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This is an amazing story, a beautiful outcome. Greg Long has developed new life jackets and other safety devices which will help all those who work in the oceans and now being used by the coast guard and sea going vessels. Good thing they saved him ;)
Greg you're a living Legend!!Deep Respect!!Good that you're still around!!
Buddy that’s not just an “occasional little step out of your comfort zone”
Lollll
Most people misread us, this is not crazy, not a death wish, not adrenaline junkies, this is a genuine pursuit of what is really possible in life. How far can I go? Fear is real, and necessary, risk is real and must be managed properly. Life is an experience that should be enjoyed. Otherwise, what is the point?
I dont think that i would ever want to be a big wave surfer, but Greg Long has inspired me so much in this video. I honestly don't know what else to say except simply just... THANK YOU.
Beautiful bio-pic. These big wave guys are the nicest going around...Greg's on top of that heap for so long.. Peace to you brother...
The big wave riders truly are the most humble. And the ones with outrageous personalities can back it up. It's no bullshit.
@@clarkewi except McNamara
Jet wave kook
Hes the reason greg ate it he snaked him
'Gerg'! Because I was fortunate enough to cross paths with you in Pisac, Perú in 2014 (approx), I know you as much more than 'a surfer'; moreover, you're such a gentle, humble, kind soul my Hermanito! I'll never forget that night at the fire outside the Maha Temple... I was sitting right next to as you lay there... reliving that life altering experience from the Cortez Bank. Amazing journey to say the least. Wherever you may be these days, I always wish you love, compassion, and eternal blessings! -Dan
Hate to tell you - you are not the only one this has happened to as a surfer - it has happened to me three times now in Australia !! It does not have to be a huge swell to get drowned - try any reef break or sand bank that rises rapidly from depth in Australia and it will kill you !
Mark Dickenson Haha but were you out in 30ft surf in the middle of the Pacific. Although this shit is a little hyped up
no waves in Australia, the whole thing is one big continent filled with dirts
Purely Inspirational. Thank you.
I surfed for 16yrs of my younger life I lived on Kauai between 73-75 and 77-80 I can relate to Greg Longs story.First time I went
to Kauai it was in December one day while
I was driving along the West shore I looked
out to see 30 foot waves as far as the eye could see of course no one was out,I would have taken a helicopter to get out side.The thing is the waves where perfect shape!
Final I am one of the few to Patel out at
queens pond polihalie and live to talk
about it
Solid guy and a well spoken driven human. Cheesy overdone platform for communicating his life thus far.
Greg is super human! This is a totally amazing story! Thank you for sharing it!
don't let how nice he seems fool you. this guy is beast. total savage on big waves
Thanks for making me cry Greg, waves to die with, truly, love
Dude is tough as nails. Much respect!
Dude your a great speaker
Dreamboat 😍 I am in love with this mans mind. I know nothing of surfing but the message he gets across is inspiring 🙏🏻
Very well done. The ocean, in time, will get its way. Time and age makes the drop even more difficult.
All the best and good luck.
Originally from Hermosa Beach, California
Well done greg. What a well spoken young surfer. Never used the word "Dude" once ;))
yeah that's because it was uh, you know, totally written beforehand
Whats wrong with saying dude
stcrude Greg Long is very well spoken regardless.
Greg is a well respected person in hawaii. in and out of the water.
What an amazing viewpoint in life. Thank you for the view of being human...
Great stuff.
One of the nicest guys you will meet in and out of the water. Cheers! See you soon in PH @ Pico Alto.
Mahalo Nui Loa from Hawaii 😎 the island of Oahu. Solid Documentary on your adventures in your career of Big Wave Surfing and Traveling the globe.🤙
This video caught my attention recently. It's about fear, resilience, listening to that inner wisdom and honoring what is true in each moment. I found it inspiring and validating; it's good to know I'm not the only one dealing with fear around those things I love most (work, money, love, the list goes on).
Questions that come to mind:
What scares me?
When I feel fear, do I push past it? Sometimes even when I shouldn't?
If I let fear stop me, am I letting myself down? (only I know the truth about what the fear is telling me / asking of me)
If I turned around and faced my fear, what might happen?
Who do I choose to be in the face of fear?
What will I do to use fear as a guide and teacher?
Am I willing to get started on this now?
Valley go home!
Fear is the most liberating drug. You don't need drugs. Just do scary things. I love to surf and have been doing it for over 50 years. Now I see that even paddling out on a smallish day is a committment because you are stepping into the ocean where things are beyond your control. My advice to you is to take up an ocean sport and you'll see what I mean. You don't have to be Greg Long - he and a short list of others are on the outer realm.
Amazing athletes, for sure. These guys are amazing. I once heard big wave surfers compared to free solo rock climbers (no ropes) but that's not a fair comparison. If you make a mistake on a massive wave, the odds are way more than 50/50 of survival. Make a mistake on a big wall while free solo-ing, and you are 100% dead every single time.
Ageed! I've surfed some bigger surf, and there's no way you'd catch me rock climbing.
and rock walls dont move; very odd comparison
Theres way to many differences to compare the 2.
Respect
wow great story
Waterman.... very cool bro you left your mark for sure.
Respect.
Thank you!!!
No se nadar, pero me encanta ver como lo hacen, es impresionante ante esas majestuosas olas que se ve el ser humano tan pequeño, es impresionante, gracias
incredible story!
your in my heart
I just love this video,,,so inspiring..
Nice Job. congratulations
this is a great documentary!!!
Why were both of them on the same wave in such dangerous conditions? Which one dropped in on the other?
inspirational & amazing thanks
awesome, absolutely awesome
so darn cooooool!
Great courageous Greg
Very nice. Congratulations.
Inspirational!!!
I surfed with him in maldives
I would very much like to see Mr Greg Long in Portugal , alongside Mr Garret McNamara surfing Nazareths Cannon ...
Try our food and meet our locals ( the People , we don´t have sharks here ... )
Nuno Marques Yes - peniche is good to, nice place to stay in bal - eal on the point?
remember what happened at Cortes Bank when Garrett got jealous and dropped in on him and caused him to have that life threatening Wipeout he probably doesn't like Garrett and doesn't want to surf around that guy
even if garrett didnt have drop in he wouldnt be able to make that wave, have you seen the footage? Greg was simply in the wrong spot, very unlucky, sometimes you wipeout in a very big wave and you just come up like nothing happened in a matter of seconds, other times you wipeout and for some reason you are so pushed down you take so long to come up.
I love him now 🌺😎🤙🇺🇸
Only a surfer knows the feeling.
Vest have made big wave surfing SOOo much safer
That was awesome!! Inspiring! :)
Emozionante!
Awesome
He sings with ‘Avalon’ sometimes.
whats the song at the beginning? when hes getting barreled
waves are fun ...
"I competed competitively" lol
Well you technically can compete for fun so why can't you compete competitively lol
Nice 😄😊
Heavy.
whats the intro song playing with his voice-over?
whats this song during the rescue
+Rupert Vladimir
Other lives- dust bowl
como puedo saber lo que dice??
Ou yes nice locos carcharias .!
"..if we don't occasionally step outside of our comfort zones.." ( re:statement during1st minute of film)....Like, every single day, our life revolving entirely around stepping outside of our comfort zones, yeah....
Interesting attempt at explaining it.....though l more tend to believe that we're straight up addicted to adrenaline, creating methods for it's intensive release within the body-mind, in the same way that it is actually the dopamine, released from within their own bodies, and naturally occurring therein, which is the high and the addiction triggered and set off, (and also similarly: to a level many times higher than what would it would otherwise be within oneself) by the user of an amphetamine.
..As big wave surfers, and the like, we're adrenaline junkies.....
Similar results in what is released naturally within the body that creates both of the actual highs, and similar addiction to the rush created within, therefrom, with different forms of risk and possible cost or consequence involved therein, also. Many and great differences, but with a great many similarities in regards to what drives the addictive aspects within.
My grandpa knows him
He can reincarnate as a dolphin.
how does he have the balls to surf those waves
Contrived
who tf disliked
I did, and probably a lot of others, that have been around him and his family. This is a cheesy version. They were just nice people at the beach.
Who would give this a thumbs down? Must be haters...
Why haven't they developed a small oxygen tank that could attach securely to the chest or back with a tube by the mouth. Not that hard
.308or5.56? Been wondering same thing since I first saw tow in start up.
They have.
You mean like a scuba tank but smaller ?
Its just too crazy down there to reach up and detach a tank or mouthpiece and bring it to your mouth. Youre getting rag dolled around violently. Youll waste alot of oxygen struggling to hold on to the thing. Better solution is flotation, insuring that u at least pop up. A vest is equipped with a couple of air bags and co2 cartridges to inflate the vest when a pin is pulled.
There's no time for that... It's chaotic under the wave. The surfers get disoriented.. Something that pulls you back up, like a vest, is much quicker and more effective
Socal cheese ick - so many other dudes charge just as hard - dude is way too into himself
What? heaps of people surf, not so many surf waves THAT big, you are delusional.
Talk about cheesy and boring!
:) :) :)) u crazy lol but RESPECT!!!!!
Tl was sad
Ehh he get respect.
In the for marijuana is stupid Ted conferences
Neils de gassbag, so sick of that egomaniac
How to make something exciting into something totally boring.
Cry Baby
troll baby
good idea on the talk? but zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz....falling asleep, cut it down to 12 minutes.