This is really helpful, thank you so much. I made my first plate today, not great, but not bad, the developing ideas you have I'm sure will help. Thanks again.
Hey Borut, this is one of the most advanced wet plates tutorials out there. A must see for every fellow wetplater! And I have to say I really like your new book. Not because I have been beside you or even in front of the lens while you have been shooting, but because it's great street photography. Looking forward getting a hand on it. Best currently from Kigali, Rwanda.
Great video Borut! Do you use brighter red lights when developing wet plates? Or maybe move the red lights closer while you develop? I tend to leave my safe lights in the exact same configuration as I have them for printing silver gelatin, and they are too dim to see the midtones when I develop wet plates. I've gotten into the habit of developing for a set time, but your technique seems to give more control.
Oh, yes, much brighter reds than normal safe light. But that said you don't need much light if you know what you're looking for and the light is at the right angle.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography that's where we differ, I'm still very much learning and don't know what I'm looking for and you're a topshit master 😄 Maybe one day I can learn from you.
Great video. Nice to see that good collodion again with you. I see you use a normal Fidelity film holder (?) How did you make it for collodion (thickness of the plate)?
just wondering: is it possible to use a spray diffuser to put on the plate even fewer developer? I'd guess you can evenly spray a plate with as little as one milliliter or two... is it a stupid idea? if yes, why?
Slowly poured developer must be weak because if is too strong (temperature) the plate gets particular developing lines. That's why I prefer fast and furious pouring technique. Spraying would cause developing dots. That said I never tried it, but I will. Thx.
When I'm ending up with milky and foggy looking plates, have I developed it to long? I've noticed on one part, that didn't catch enough developer, that this area seemed to be fine. Maybe the reason is another but I guess I'm doing something wrong with the developer?
I saw you using the measured amount of developer in your previous video, and I copied that method right after. Already my plates are looking better. Thank you sir.
Do you use 99% acetic acid when making developers? My results always look like fog and the image itself is blurry. I can't see it well. I tried varying the exposure time and the development time did not exceed 15 seconds.
Is there any supplier that delivers to Germany or from Germany for the chemicals? I'm now waiting almost two month to get the chemicals and they keep telling me "soon"... :( Just not Fotoimpex from Berlin, it's one that keeps me waiting.
Hm... I should start selling the chemistry, because I know that photographers would appreciate my collodion not to mention that proper negative collodion isn't selling at all. I'm just not a merchant, I want to remain an artist. Perhaps I could ask Michaela from Mamut Foto from Prague, perhaps she can be my dealer. Try Mamut Foto. Or go to FB group Collodion Bastards and ask what's the best source in Germany. Or take the Flixbus and come to Slovenia for a visit, it's cheap.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography awesome, thank you! I've contacted Mamut Foto and asked if they're shipping to Germany. :) I think I'll cancel the previous order on monday and try Mamut Foto if they can send the chemicals to Germany and have the things I need in stock.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Mamutphoto was a great suggestion. Ordered there and got the next day the shipping confirmation. Now I can hopefull start my trail and error attempts in my vacations. Thank you!
You have options. You may eventually want to move up to 8x10 but if you start that big you'll be wasting a lot of expensive chemistry on the learning mistakes we all make. I'd recommend starting with 4x5 and moving up from there. I personally have a 5x7 and an 8x10 camera. I use a 4x5 reducing back for the 5x7, as well as plate reducing inserts for my 8x10 plate holder so I can use either camera to shoot smaller plates. Might be something to consider. Good luck!
The best demonstration yet! Book looks great!
In 2 days my chemistry arrives. Can’t wait to start with wet plate and I love your videos you’re amazing!!
How did it go?
This is really helpful, thank you so much. I made my first plate today, not great, but not bad, the developing ideas you have I'm sure will help. Thanks again.
Hey Borut, this is one of the most advanced wet plates tutorials out there. A must see for every fellow wetplater! And I have to say I really like your new book. Not because I have been beside you or even in front of the lens while you have been shooting, but because it's great street photography. Looking forward getting a hand on it. Best currently from Kigali, Rwanda.
Ha!!! Thank you! Next week I'll send a copy to the axe street!
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Yeah!!
I want to get into this so bad. I love the randomness of it
I love this process. Great vid Borut
A nice follow up to your previous vlog on exposure. Nice to see the development side of some of those plates.
Very good video! thank you!
Thank you. Very useful pieces of information. Lots of knowledge I did not know about. ! Cheers
Borut, you are so inspiring! Thank you for your Work, your videos and your workshops! Topshit!
Thank you my friend. More to come !-)
All this time I thought those were shot glasses for whiskey in the rack. See you taught me something today.
Wonderful vlog!!
so awesome, love the beaker idea.... now I need to wait for the temperature to come down a bit... 42C here today!
Uh... That's hot. We got our first centimetre of snow. I must make a vlog about working in the heat. Well, if you'll need advice, I'm here.
From EGYPT i like your videos 💪💪
Eres un grande!!! and your country also!!!
Topshit stuff Borut! Really need to get myself on a wet plate workshop next year.
Hi great video! Do you use the developer again? Or it’s not possible?
Great video Borut! Do you use brighter red lights when developing wet plates? Or maybe move the red lights closer while you develop? I tend to leave my safe lights in the exact same configuration as I have them for printing silver gelatin, and they are too dim to see the midtones when I develop wet plates. I've gotten into the habit of developing for a set time, but your technique seems to give more control.
Oh, yes, much brighter reds than normal safe light. But that said you don't need much light if you know what you're looking for and the light is at the right angle.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography that's where we differ, I'm still very much learning and don't know what I'm looking for and you're a topshit master 😄 Maybe one day I can learn from you.
What kind of developer do you use? Does the fixer have any effects on the result?
Great video. Nice to see that good collodion again with you.
I see you use a normal Fidelity film holder (?) How did you make it for collodion (thickness of the plate)?
It's simple and efficient. I'll make a vlog about it.
just wondering: is it possible to use a spray diffuser to put on the plate even fewer developer? I'd guess you can evenly spray a plate with as little as one milliliter or two... is it a stupid idea? if yes, why?
Slowly poured developer must be weak because if is too strong (temperature) the plate gets particular developing lines. That's why I prefer fast and furious pouring technique. Spraying would cause developing dots. That said I never tried it, but I will. Thx.
It definitely worth a try. Thx
Once you've sensitized the plate, how long is it usable for and how much time until you should develop?
It depends. I wouldn't recommend more then 15min, but not during the summer
When I'm ending up with milky and foggy looking plates, have I developed it to long? I've noticed on one part, that didn't catch enough developer, that this area seemed to be fine. Maybe the reason is another but I guess I'm doing something wrong with the developer?
Did you make all the furniture in that room? It all looks like re-purposed lumber.
I do have a degree in carpentry, but I'm not that good at it. I've designed it and the proper carpenter made it for me.
No! Your vlog is not long enough! 🌟😉
I saw you using the measured amount of developer in your previous video, and I copied that method right after. Already my plates are looking better. Thank you sir.
Thank you! I'm very happy to hear that! And thank you for buying my book ;-)
Do you use 99% acetic acid when making developers?
My results always look like fog and the image itself is blurry. I can't see it well.
I tried varying the exposure time and the development time did not exceed 15 seconds.
Well, it could be your safe light, it could be developer, or something completely different. Buy the manual of Mark Osterman in the www.collodion.org
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography I am using collodion 5% (KANTO). Is it possible that it is a problem with Collodion itself?
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography
I am South Korean, so I cannot read books in English. Please understand.
Is there any supplier that delivers to Germany or from Germany for the chemicals? I'm now waiting almost two month to get the chemicals and they keep telling me "soon"... :( Just not Fotoimpex from Berlin, it's one that keeps me waiting.
Hm... I should start selling the chemistry, because I know that photographers would appreciate my collodion not to mention that proper negative collodion isn't selling at all. I'm just not a merchant, I want to remain an artist. Perhaps I could ask Michaela from Mamut Foto from Prague, perhaps she can be my dealer. Try Mamut Foto. Or go to FB group Collodion Bastards and ask what's the best source in Germany. Or take the Flixbus and come to Slovenia for a visit, it's cheap.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography awesome, thank you! I've contacted Mamut Foto and asked if they're shipping to Germany. :) I think I'll cancel the previous order on monday and try Mamut Foto if they can send the chemicals to Germany and have the things I need in stock.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Mamutphoto was a great suggestion. Ordered there and got the next day the shipping confirmation. Now I can hopefull start my trail and error attempts in my vacations. Thank you!
I call my combination of diferent collodions "Mut Mix".
Together with Elvis we are laughing out loud.
topshit again my friend!
Parada
As a wetplate beginner, should I go 8x10 or 5x7?
Either way you will learn.
You have options. You may eventually want to move up to 8x10 but if you start that big you'll be wasting a lot of expensive chemistry on the learning mistakes we all make.
I'd recommend starting with 4x5 and moving up from there. I personally have a 5x7 and an 8x10 camera. I use a 4x5 reducing back for the 5x7, as well as plate reducing inserts for my 8x10 plate holder so I can use either camera to shoot smaller plates. Might be something to consider. Good luck!
8x10!
2.04 he says he's not Russian, where's he from then?
Slovenia.
)