A lot of this is "Watch Alec handle an orb" *I have some more advice after this attempt* Something went a little wrong with this pour and I think it was that I didn't spend enough time twirling it around and/or there wasn't quite enough glue in the mix so the coating didn't thicken as much as I needed. The appearance as it dried wasn't perfectly opaque. I cleaned it up and started again with better results. So here's my overall guide in written form: 1. Mix equal parts by weight water, acrylic craft paint, and PVA glue. Consider going a touch heavy on the glue. 2. Stir thoroughly while avoiding introducing bubbles. 2. a. If ya gotta vacuum chamber, have at it. Or you can try some other methods to reduce bubbles. Some bubbles are OK as many will pop, but too many and you'll have speckles here and there. 3. Pour mixture onto inside surface of glass. _Spend a long time (at least 15 minutes) moving the object around and repeatedly re-coat all areas as the mixture begins to thicken._ You'll see what I mean. 4. Elevate item and allow excess to drip out. Allow to dry overnight. Good luck!
I can relate... from around 3 to 15 years i was fascinated by flashlights... i made then, bought them, used them. It was not a fear of dark, just amazed by the power of have a light generator on my hand. :)
When you showed the original lamp, and then brought out the frosted version, I felt like there was a missed opportunity to talk about the magic of buying two of them.
As someone who often thins paint for transparency, my recommendation instead of PVA glue and water, would be to just head to your local craft store and pick up a bottle of clear acrylic paint medium. It will still be thinable with water, but it will dive a more durable finish that will absolutely not yellow with age.
That's a really good idea. No guesswork about how the mixed chemistry will work, and confidence about long term stability. Art/craft supply stores are great resources even for more technical projects.
@@gwiz6278 I don't think he's trying to reinvent the wheel. I think that he never considered the idea in the first place and as he stated in the video couldn't find anyone else talking about how to do this.
COOL - I wanted to set up a company a few years ago doing freestanding indirect lighting lamps. I loved the geometry needed to achieve the uniform light combined with the aesthetics. to look right it has to be technically good. You cant just make a "thing".
@@ghostify6502 Either find a local lamp company or just start making your own lamps. Lamps are very easy to make as they're literally just a plugged cord and a bulb holder on the end. Just learn how to wire it together if you don't already know and get building (I know a few people who sell lamps between FB market place and etsy and make a living)
@cadneemountai2791 this whole channel is just a bunch of "things" that he finds cool usually due to how theyre not useful in any modern circumstance anymore
Couple of suggestions: For people who do not have a vacuum chamber (we do, for metal casting), you can use a "small device that vibrates at high speed", usually battery powered and available in multiple sizes and shapes. Applied to the base of the container it will encourage small bubbles to merge and move to the surface. Next - a mixture like this can stand for a long time if tightly capped. mix in a jar that is "just large enough", cap it and let sit for a day. virtually all bubbles will come out. next - to pop bubbles have some toothpicks handy. And in place of cups, purchase model maker stands at a craft store. They are just small wire or plastic pyramids that are designed to support something with minimum contact area.
if you have visitors, remember to hide the setup, so they dont notice the vibrating device thats available in multiple sizes and shapes, or there might be questions! Or you can explain that its an industry standard device, usually referred to as an "engineers best friend"
I love that he pointed out that the equal parts are measured by weight. As a chef, I often come across recipes that make it seem like volume and weight are interchangeable as it's (at least for cooking) the case with water. Figuring out the exact ratios can be a huge pain, which can be prevented by this one little note.
A bit 20s mobster style... Cool... It should be the same procedure, just two layers, one green paint, the second one white, to give a better light reflection downwards
"accountants lamp" "bankers lamp" "lawyers lamp" or "judges lamp" are some search terms to hit on items like that. Like the transparent green visor youd see someone cracking on an adding machine wear especially in throwback scenes of the 1940s, the green was believed to be better for preserving eyesight if you had to be exposed to artificial light all day. I agree, the green and gold is a great classic early-mid 20th century paper pusher look. My dad had one on his desk for the longest time......of course they got rid of it when that modern day 'everything flat white soulless ugly with jaunting squares everywhere and died poop in the sun taupe' look came into vogue....damn them....
From a person who paints with acrylics, bleached titanium white pigment is opaque, zinc white pigment is translucent, you could use unbleached titanium to get a warm white. As a side note I use a mirror as my palette when painting so I can figure out just that, the transparency, and it peels right off to be used again and again. Perhaps zinc white may give a more frosted appearance. Acrylic gel medium can be watered down, the dif between liquid, gel medium and paste is the length of the molecule; liquid is short and runny, paste is long chains and is thick. All can be watered down. Acrylic artists mediums tend not to yellow.
From a person who has done finger painting back in elementary school, your comment is impressive, almost supernatural, as I ponder how much unique knowledge and experience you must have to be able to write such a comment.
Painter's tape around the edge to make a lip might buy you some time before the drips get too out of hand. Another tip is doing a high pour to prevent bubbles. If you don't have a vacuum chamber and you want to get the bubbles out of a thick liquid mix, pouring it high so it makes a thin long stream helps prevent them.
This may truly be the best RUclips channel ever created. Mostly subjects I don't remotely care about and yet I'm still watching the whole thing with all my attention, and still end up remembering and using what he explains in my life somehow
Absolutely. More often than not the things he talks about are things I had no prior interest in. But I think one of the reasons he's so good is by the time he's done, I find myself getting excited to go out and make my own milk white lamp, or buy some weird outdated media player, or finally use my dishwasher the way it was supposed to be used, etc. Lol
Finally! Watch paint dry episode 😃 Love your work, the attention to detail, thoroughly researched topics and the level of interest you bring to mundane appliances. Dishwasher episodes have been my favorites and I've forced many people to watch them to boredom 🤪
After the social and gastric overstimulation of the holidays, watching paint dry was exactly what I needed tonight to wind down. And not just watching paint dry, but watching Alec watch paint dry with great enthusiasm.
Alec found a unique way to make his audience watch (literally) paint dry! 😁 Excellent video! I'm wondering if there's a way to give it a mat finish (inside) to help with diffusion of light (ideal for LEDS)
PVA glue is very similar to the "medium" or binder in acrylic paint... so if it ends up yellowing, some "fine art" grade acrylic paints and mediums that are specifically formulated for light fastness and to prevent yellowing would probably work. Like... Liquitex basics titanium white and use either matte medium or gloss medium to "dilute" the white (to adjust the transparency). Optionally throw a layer of varnish over the top to help protect it and add super extra yellowing protection.
My technologically fascinated and fascinating friend, you mixed paint, water, and glue in your basement while talking to a camera and as of now there are 711k views. It's not just the camera but all of us who appreciate what you do, sharing enthusiastic enlightenment. I've learned much from your videos. Your efforts have educated and brightened my life forever. P.S. I've been searching for an inexpensive way to make milk glass for a white whale project for ten years. You have my utmost thanks.
You can use a palm sander to get bubbles out of liquids! Just turn it upside down and remove the sandpaper, then hold the cup on the sanding surface. The vibration agitates it enough to make the bubbles rise quickly.
This is very similar to what my Dad does for shading his greenhouse in the summer when it gets too hot. He uses PVA mixed with powdered chalk and water. It's handy because the whole thing can be peeled of in one piece when the temperature drops back down.
We always used to use lime from a builders merchant or ironmongers to whitewash cellar walls and greenhouses etc. This was long before pva glue was invented and it worked perfectly and was very cheap. In the UK it can be bought from B & Q stores.
@@Rob-e8w neither chalk nor lime won't let that much light through, which is what you may want in a greenhouse in summer, but not so much in this lamp case.
I’ve been doing this for years with just store bought ‘buttermilk’ I think it’s called in English. It smells a little as it sets but when dry it’s fine, washes of easy with water. That means it’s not water resistant though, might try your dad’s trick for some situations it could be the better option.
A few tips from the miniatures side of RUclips: Like James Wood said, matte medium would be a good substitute for PVA, but so would Mod Podge (very similar to Elmers, with slight differences that might help out, not sure in this case). Also, to help with the bubbles, pour your mixture from height. The long stream it will form will help keep bubbles from traveling down from the cup. For other colors, alcohol ink might be worth trying. It's gained recent popularity for painting because it's more translucent.
I would just like to add that I tried a high pour and this mixture is too thin for that to work. It actually made many more bubbles! It really is quite liquidy - which to be clear (heh) is what I wanted for consistency in coat. Using a little torch lighter to pop bubbles on the glass seemed to work the best. Also, in subsequent attempts imperfections kept appearing in the same pattern - so I think they're actually the result of surface imperfections sort of catching the glue as it passes. They almost had a tail like a comet! Not sure how commonly that might happen, but these shades are hand-made so they probably have more variability as a result.
@@TechnologyConnextras smiled and looked up at my bedroom lamp as I watched this. It has three frosted globes that are now multicoloured with streaks (a bit Barbarella-ish😀) as I used a similar paint pour technique (used by fluid pour artists etc) - there's the odd blob on mine too, it's where the acrylic hasn't fully mixed with the glue/water. Another great video btw👍😀
Since it was mentioned, matte paint versus gloss... I'm not sure how much the glue (and/or Mod Podge) interferes with this, but since you're applying it to glass, gloss is probably the better option as it will create a smoother surface contact. The differences will be microscopic until the light is turned on, at which point I'd imagine there might be something of an odd pattern that would be visible. The visual appeal of the pattern is going to be largely subjective, but for the purposes of an even and regular surface, I'd think gloss is the better option.
@@padoco73 I've heard that a lot of glossy stuff actually uses crushed glass so I could see the glass in the mixture helping to fill in gaps and improve transparency.
Pouring tip: when pouring silicon liquid tooling into a mold, we would always pour from high up to allow the silicon to "ribbon", or pour out in a very thin sheet or stream, as it would squeeze out a lot of the bubbles, and usually wouldn't entrain more when it pooled. Your mixture may not be thick enough to do this properly, but it's worth a shot?
A friend taught me a painting tip when working on smaller pieces that don't weigh too much (such as your lampshade); I've been using it on ceramic planters. When you're trying to paint something all at once, there's always the problem of the paint being messed up where it comes in contact with the surface it rests on, in your case the plastic cups. Find a couple pieces of quarter-round molding at the hardware store. Home Depot sells one made of white plastic which is even better than the wood (at least for this use). Set the molding down on its rounded side, so when you place your painted item on it, it has only minimal contact with the surface, resulting in a much smaller area of paint that gets disturbed while drying. This has worked really well for me and has drastically cut down on the amount of touchup work. Good luck!
If you get a vacuum chanber, don't vacuum it TOO much because the water in the glue can boil and turn it into a bubble bath. Also get a silicone cooking sheet and hold it between the opening and a board. You then have a closed bowl and you can really speed up the coating process
Was looking for this comment before I posted anything. I work in refrigeration and we pull a deep vacuum before charging, specifically to get any moisture _out_ of the system
@@ArnaudMEURET Maybe a good idea. I use a vacuum pump all the time at work, but a shop vac might just be a good alternative in this case,and be easy to set up Perhaps an aquarium with a plexiglass top with a hole cut for the hose and just some putty to seal it. Of coarse i am 100% certain i will never have to frost the glass of anything in this lifetime. 😆 But nice to know someone made a how-to video about it anyway. lol
I'm impressed by how nice this looks. I have to admit, I don't really like the lamp with clear glass, but with the white color applied they are quite pretty.
I was diagnosed with insonnia, i take 2 different medication: zolpidem and trazodon, but in the last few months your videos change my life. You have a calm, relaxing voice and mood. I love your contents, you are my new bed time story :) keep going and thanks
A couple of bubble-popping tips from the world of silicone/resin molds: - pouring the solution from a higher position so the stream is very narrow which can pop bubbles mid-stream - hitting the bubbles with a heat gun/hairdryer to inflate and pop them
"pouring the solution from a higher position so the stream is very narrow which can pop bubbles mid-stream" Ahh yes, the ribbon pour! Hello my fellow tool (maker). 😃 Casting, mold making, tooling, is a great way to get a feel for material handling. SIdenote: the two part silicone jacket mold, while a pain in the butt, is an absolute godsend for complicated geometries. Just had to share that with someone who might appreciate it too. Oh, and incase you havent happened across it yet, you know how hexane and paraffin is a preferred industry silicon release.......normal old every day nothing special blue Dawn dishsoap works better and is a million times cheaper. A few squirts in a cup and a few drops of water to thin it a touch (but no foaming!) grab a chip brush and paint it on. Its so much easier to deal with the stroke marks too. No more tetchy silicone allergic reactions ruining your cast!
Aren't those like ... green on the outside, but white on the inside to reflect a decent amount of light onto the desk for writing and stuff? So ... I guess green with THIS method ... would be kinda ... weird. (maybe 2 layered ... but who knows how this would work out)
@@TheScytheMoron with pva glue the green top or inner coat would melt away trying to put layer 2 of white. Theres no adhesion nor absorption happening to prevent that i think?
I really liked the style of this video! It has a different vibe than normal. I enjoyed the DIY aspect of it, and it felt like you were more connected to us. Well done!
Honestly I *love* that lamp design in general save for the colourless glass - very easy to see how that not only looks weird but also how it makes the light less pleasant overall. I wonder how much more popular it would have been if they'd used milk glass or some other colour instead.
FYI I find ethanol (I use methylated spirits) can thin PVA glue quite nicely, either instead of water or in combination with water. I find it makes it quite smooth and makes it dry a little faster as the ethanol evapourates.
15:34 - there is a technique referred to as high pour. You lift up the container high and pour the liquid slowly in a thin line or band and it minimizes the bubble forming and if there are already bubbles, you can get rid of them that way. Sometimes gently tapping the container can agitatet the bubbles to raise to the tip and it helps them pop (you can try the container that holds you mix or the bulb in this case). You an also introduce some heat to the bubbles but I'm not so sure about those details. The Crafsman (yes, no T in his name) has some videos on silocone that can help you.
@@lavinia-whateley I'm pretty sure it would start to dry the glue, resin doesn't cure with heat, but you'll evaporate the solvent faster with PVA glue.
For the bubbles after pouring, you might have better luck using a small torch (eg. a creme brulee torch) and very quickly sweeping over the surface. Be careful not to hold in any one spot for any amount of time. This is what artists who do acrylic pouring do, and it seems to work really well. Otherwise, it looks like a great job! Well done :)
To add: the heat of the torch causes the air in the bubble to expand violently, popping it from inside-out. Heat guns can work but if you want perfection a small torch is the better option.
About the oven drying attempt: "White PVA, Polyurethane glues, contact cements typically fail above 150 f or 80c." Woodworkers will usually use a heat gun to take apart glued joints. You reflowed the glue when you heated it up.
I tried your recipe and it worked out pretty well! I don't know if it truly improved on the technique but I set the lamp bowl on a bowl of water. The humidity prolonged the drying and allowed the paint suspension to flow to a more consistent coating thickness. It took longer to dry but I think using humidity allows the bubbles to work their way out. I don't know how to send you a picture but you probably get the idea.
We call them paddle pop sticks in Australia, but we're so infused with American culture here that popsicle stick is also completely understandable. I love the precision of your thinking and work. It's a breath of fresh air
You can use a blow torch right after coating the paint to get rid of the bubbles. Well known trick amongst acrylic paint pouring artists... Also, if you add Floetrol or silicone lube to the mixture you can get nice "cell" patterns if you're into that.
While this is an excellent idea, it should also be noted that most glues are notorious for carmelizing. If you do use a blow torch, I would think you'd need to be very brisk while doing so to avoid any browning. That said, you are absolutely correct in that the bubbles should be mostly eliminated.
I’d recommend a heat gun or hairdryer personally. What Alec mixed is basically a thin acrylic paint pour as the pouring medium that most acrylic pour artists use is literally just pva glue.
Omg. You are a savior. Lol. This is exactly what I’ve been looking for to update a 1990s light in my kitchen until we do a full remodel. Much appreciated.
I do acrylic paint pouring art all the time which is essentially what you did. To get rid of the bubbles you can immediately grab a small butane torch like the ones used for cooking. Run it quickly over the painted surface while it’s wet. Be careful not to touch the flame to the paint and watch the bubbles pop. Also I wonder how well it will last as the bulbs still put off heat even though they are led. I would recommend skipping the glue and water and use flotrol that u can get from Home Depot or Lowe’s. Also acrylic paints don’t usually yellow or crack as they are somewhat flexible. You can also try fabric paint or leather paint as it’s meant to be flexible. Anyway you had a fantastic idea. Hard to believe they don’t make a spray on milk substance.
‘Pass me a popsicle stick please’ would be a totally understandable phrase here in New Zealand. What I’m not so sure of is why I’m so into this video, when I know I will never perform the process myself. Excellent work.
@@Dranok1 Yes! Odd blend down here, weighted towards UK but some US influence. ‘Popsicle’ would be the ice lolly (flat wooden stick like a doctor instructing ‘say aaaah’), ‘lollipop’ would only be a small rounded white Chupa-Chups stick. Hoping that brand is globally understood. Useless for painting a lamp quickly, anyway.
I am pretty impressed by your result, particularly because the lamp light in the finished product becomes far more comfortable to look at without having to squint or feel like the direct light is overwhelming close up, so I would probably want to use something like this if I ever get a lamp with a clear glass top, especially because of the comfort it would provide to my eyes.
This whole darn video is like watching paint dry!!! Actually I watched the whole thing in real time thinking what an awesome idea this was and how much I enjoy the look of milk glass and thinking of crafty projects where I could use this.
+1 to what others have suggested: give acrylic medium a try instead of glue. Medium is the glue and thickness of paint, you can actually make your own paint by mixing pigment power right into medium to create exactly what you need!
FYI this is the IKEA ÅTERSKEN lamp, no longer available in table lamp but they do have a similar ceiling lamp, and also some wall sconce lamps (oddly already with white/frosted glass)
Given how hard it is to have next to you at eye level, I'm not surprised. If they just made it with glass like this, though, it would have been perfect!
I'd suggest using an acrylic paint reducer instead of water and maybe airbrush transparent paint instead of craft acrylics. It might get rid of your bubble problem but it may be thinner and require more coats. There are also UV protective clear coat additives you could use instead of glue, that would keep that white from yellowing and help with durability but it would mean taking the paint off would be more work. Of course if you could get this done much nicer and faster with a spray gun but that's not exactly as cheap and simple as this.
yeah there are better modern alternatives to PVA and water. Spray painting is also more manageable, just need to go light on coating and rectify details, imperfections and transparency with more passes. The more layers are applied, the more uniform the result is.
I also though about anti-UV varnish to avoid yellowing but creating a prime layer and a finishing layer of it, instead of simply mixing it with acrylic. I guess would protect more.
Concerning paint for Christmas lightbulbs, make sure to look at art student grade paints, those usually have more specific information on their characteristics, while also not becoming too expensive for what is a cheap use, as opposed to artist grade paints. There's certain pigments which are transparent, and those can let light through when applied in thin layers. Some examples: - Naphtol red (look for cadmium red hues if the pigment isn't explicitly stated) - Diarylide yellow (a yellow-orange, like the one seen in modern pavement markings) - Pthalocyanine blue (a highly saturated and really intense blue, still transparent) - Greens made by mixing Aryline yellow (light yellow color) with Pthalocyanine green (dark and highly saturated turquoise color) - Dioxazyne violet
This is fantastic, like that is a SHOCKINGLY even coating! And it has an easy to remember formula of common materials! And most importantly, it's reversible, you can scrape it off the glass if you ever change your mind! And you could make the craft paint ANY COLOR TOO. The possibilities have me really excited :D Thank you so much for sharing your discovery/methods
A similar mixture can be used to give 3D PLA prints a metallic coating. Use very fine metal powder instead of the craft paint and a little less water. Works also very well. It's a mixture we used long a time ago in the 70s to pimp small objects around modell train landscapes. 🙂And yes, build milky glass lights for modell street lights.
The "Milk Glass" fixture reminds me of all of those real Milk Glass ceiling lights and table lamps that my grandparents had in their 1950's constructed home, and they all eventually got replaced over the years. The clear fixture looks like the dome on top of the robot from the original "Lost In Space" TV series. 😉
Honestly, I've been watching your videos for ages and I have to say it's good to see you smiling. It looks like you really enjoyed making this one. Looking forward to more videos!
If you want to do colours, I recommend using acrylic ink. You can even get these inks in varying opacities. Also, mixing with water tends to cause the paint to bead up, as water has high surface tension. Add a drop of dishwasher rinse aid (I know how you feel about this...!) To defeat the surface tension. Finally, on bubbles, you can pop them all with a lighter or if you have a kitchen torch - makes very light work. Great work on this - looks like a really effective method!
In terms of lowering surface tension I wonder if adding some EtOH (like Everclear) to the mix would result in fewer bubbles. However, I'm not sure why a spray acrylic paint wouldn't get the same result as his homemade mix technique.
@@xsleep1 tbh, it probably would. In model making, we use something like mod podge mostly as a sealer - the effect of using water and PVA here is basically the same, protecting the paint from being easily damaged by the shade clips or when changing a bulb.
@@KnomChomper the easiest way is going to be to find a green acrylic that most closely matches your desired outcome. Mixing paints is difficult to recommend in text, as pigments used in different paints don't always blend the same - some greens will use only green pigment, others will have a blend of cyan and yellow, so adding a yellow pigment to the blend won't always have the same impact, even if the starting colours are the same. Just remember that expensive paints win out here, as they will contain more actual pigment. Cheap paints tend to become translucent when thinned (though that might be desireable in this instance!)
in painting and other chemical mix the dosage is mainly by weight as it's more precise than volume and it allows using ingredients in solid forms. Also for chemical reactions discrepancies in molar mass is the major reason measurements are done in weight instead of volume.
Currently, I am in the process of remaking a light fixture and changing the glass to resemble milk glass. But I didn't know how to do it. You are the only one doing lightning milk glass. Thanks for the tutorial and showing how to mix the products. I'm so excited to try it after watching your video. Thanks and wish me luck!😊❤
@@TechnologyConnextras Haha, looking forward to the sequel! But yeah, i was wondering what would work best, i kept thinking you'd mention some paint remover/acetone, like, what would've been the ratio for that solution? Btw, the lamps reminded me of Metroid.
I love your channels so much. The combination of you finding interesting things to say and teach on topics I’ve often never even considered before, and explain yourself clearly, while being so comfortable speaking on camera, is just such a winning combo. Also, I’ll almost certainly use this technique someday. So thank you for that! Now if you could come up with some way to make ‘smoked glass,’ I’d be eternally grateful.
If you're really concerned about yellowing, the magic word is "archival". Searching "archival pva glue" does reveal some results, so I believe there are options. May cost more, though. For reference, light bulbs use powdered white silica.
About the bubbles - a common way bakers and concrete crafters will use to pop bubbles in their mediums is by picking up the container and tapping it against a table/horizontal surface. (Unless you're making macarons, where they'll violently slam the cooking sheet on the bench) It brings any bubbles from deeper in the batter/cement up to the surface to pop!
Alec -- I love you, man. What a cool video getting to see you more casual and "no-effort" while still excitedly and methodically talking about your interests and fun nerdy things you learn about. Keep up the great work; I have nothing but good things to say about you :)
I use lineco pva glue for my book binding that's supposed to never yellow. It's a little more expensive than Elmer's but if yours does ever yellow it might be worth it to look into lineco.
Oh boy I was wondering how we were following up the christmas light painting insanity. Glad there's another entrant in the "Alec goes insane over lights" lineup. Just to be clear I'm 100% behind this. It looks great.
I began a course on watercolour, having never ever used it before, and I find these unedited videos to be very therapeutic. It helps me concentrate and feel not so alone. Thank you for 'talking to a camera' in your spare time.
A one day build? Not what I expected but even more delighted, brilliant idea. Btw for anyone curious, the lamp is called ikea ätersken table lamp if you can manage to find one.
An idea to get the edges without drips (at least at first)... Use some plastic wrap to "seal" up the opening long enough to roll the mixture over all the interior surface area then remove the plastic wrap for the drying process
I love green glass lamp shades, so I will definitely be trying this technique out using green paint. Also, you can make a really simple vacuum chamber if you have a vacuum sealer and a mason jar adapter. Use a wide mouth jar that the cup fits inside of.
+1 I'm not sure if this heart of this message got through to everyone here, but you do not need to put the whole glass shade into a vacuum chamber to remove the bubbles. You merely need to vacuum the cup of mixed glaze before you apply it to remove the bubbles you stirred in. And for that, you can get away with a rather small vacuum chamber. Heck, you could get away with a hand vacuum pump like a MityVac on a mason jar, because you don't even need (or want) all that strong a vacuum. You certainly don't want to start boiling the water in the paint. All you need to do is inflate any bubbles to the point that they rise out of the solution.
You've summarized my food storage method pretty well. Vacuum sealer + mason jar adapter = dry goods that stay fresh for much longer than usual. (Also leftovers that last forever, but I'm not sure that's a selling point for most people.) It's not quite as good as a vacuum chamber, but it's damn good. And for food that really has to last a long time, throwing in a small oxygen eater packet helps a lot. And yes, I also use this to remove bubbles from liquids, so it works well.
for clear color "dye" that you mentioned, take a look for acrylic inks. If you want something with a very high pigment load, look for paints marketed for miniature painting -- they have a very high pigment load since they're expected to be heavily diluted. Vallejo Game Inks would do great -- they're partially transparent and the dye is in solution instead of suspended in medium. I've used it to "dye" clear plastics by spraying diluted ink with an airbrush.
Use a a torch or fireplace lighter to pop those bubbles without traces. That's how it's done after pouring larger surfaces of resins. Also, I believe that using more of your liquid would make it easier and more evenly covered as well as more evenly dripping while drying. Small computer fan blowing into the center from beneath would probably help it dry faster as it will force moist air out.
@@katiebarber407 i think you'd risk heat fractures in the glass since usually those 2 part epoxy resins are exothermic and can give off quite a bit of heat in the curing process also I think they shrink a bit in the curing and are not particularly flexible. They also are very picky about other liquids changing the proportion blend and affecting the cure
Awesome tip on the paint and Elmer's glue! Etching cream sucks really, really bad. It gives you a tiny bit of surface texture but that's about it. The best (and by far the quickest) way to frost glass is to sandblast it and use 80-120 grit garnet. It does a spectacular job in just a few seconds. You may need to reduce the air pressure to your sandblaster though. I had glass cracking problems above 90 PSI. Staying below 80 PSI, at least with my sandblaster, seems to be more kind to the glass. The effect is not the same as the milk glass in your video though.
I haven't seen it, I don't believe But I'm honestly surprised that no one makes frosted milk glass. Frosted glass (in the manner that you just suggested) with a similar milk glass process as shown in the video
@@Spiker985Studios i mean it can exist, these are different techniques achieving different effects. depending on the shape of the object, milk the inside and sandblast the outside, it would definitely diffuse a lot better than just the pva glue.
Pro tip: tape the edge. Masking tape can help resolve drips going on the outside, and you can score whatever widths you need with a craft knife before scoring the end and ripping it off that way for thinner edges if you do not want to create a higher edge.
Very nicely done. That looks amazing. And getting a vac chamber changed my life. I use it mostly with silicone and resin for model making but it has 1000s of uses. One thing that might help in the absence of a vac chamber (for anyone out there following along) when you pour it in do so slowly and from a higher elevation. Just a few feet and a gentle thin ribbon will pop tons of bubbles as gravity stretches them out. That's what we used to do with silicone per-aformentioned vac chamber.
This is VERY useful for me, i love making decorative lamps, and is always on the look out for nice glass pieces and light diffusers, im gonna try this :)
A technique for bubbles I’ve seen in epoxy pours is to hit the surface really quickly with a torch. The heat seems to make the air expand and pop the bubbles. Plus you get to play with a torch and that’s always fun
Exactly what I was thinking! I don't think it would scorch the PVA since the trick is to just skim the surface real quick. Not enough heat for long enough to do any harm!
I was going to say use a heat gun at distance to remove the bubbles.A hair dryer on low but hot might even work. Also at scale flood the glass shade, empty and move on to the next one?!
You always come up with something different that I haven't seen. I think I'm going to try the painting glass. You're truly a creative person and probably a good person to hang out with
I've always liked your videos, but the excitement of a successful experiment comes through! And even if things yellow a bit eventually, it's so straight forward I'm excited to try this technique!
This is the first time the secondary channel has been recommended to me, and though the first channel is my favorite, I love how informal this one is and how relaxing it is to see Alec like this
Interesting technique. I have collected a few miniature glass bottles for an LED desk lamp project but hadn't figured out how to frost them yet. Going to give this a go!
In the UK, we call "popsicles" either "ice lollies" or just "lollies" - with lolly being short for lollipop, and the sticks are called "lollipop sticks".
Wow, it's interesting and quite clever. Those sticks could be referred to either as "ice cream sticks" or "lollipop sticks" in Russia, there's no such concept fusion.
You are not only mixing paint in the basement at 10:43 but making new friends all over the world and hanging out with the old ones. It's like an introvert friendly warm reception.
This came out looking really really good, I have to say, visually at least on camera it fools me pretty good. A few small tips. After you mix, pour it into a second container. You start close to the container them pull it up higher up as soon as you stablish a stream. Does two things. It will reduce bubbles (the mix will drip in a long thin stream, which will make it easier for gas bubbles to leave the liquid on its way down), and also guarantee you only have the well mixed parts in your final mix, because stuff near walls is always prone to not mix. You can also use the same pouring technique when putting it inside of the glass. You probably can do it in two layers. First a apply a version of the mixture with a paintbrush as a thin layer (I am assuming a thinner mix is better, but messing around is worth it), so that it can dry fast. Once it is tacky, you then do something like you did here to fill in the gaps in the brush strokes and make it perfect, but hopefully needing to worry less about the edges, they can be done entirely by brush later if needs be. Alternatively, just cap the bottom hole with packing tape, make a hole at the center to pour the mix in, do how you did, then when you flip it upside down, put a cup under said hole to collect the extra goop. After dry, cut the tape off rather than just peeling it off to avoid tearing out your freshly applied coating.
Thank you for this video! We converted an old kerosene hurricane lantern into a lamp with a flame bulb, but the flame bulb was a little too obvious and large. This method was the perfect solution! I'm extremely impressed with the results so far, and it's not even dry yet. So simple, and I already had all the supplies in my house.
A lot of this is "Watch Alec handle an orb"
*I have some more advice after this attempt*
Something went a little wrong with this pour and I think it was that I didn't spend enough time twirling it around and/or there wasn't quite enough glue in the mix so the coating didn't thicken as much as I needed. The appearance as it dried wasn't perfectly opaque. I cleaned it up and started again with better results. So here's my overall guide in written form:
1. Mix equal parts by weight water, acrylic craft paint, and PVA glue. Consider going a touch heavy on the glue.
2. Stir thoroughly while avoiding introducing bubbles.
2. a. If ya gotta vacuum chamber, have at it. Or you can try some other methods to reduce bubbles. Some bubbles are OK as many will pop, but too many and you'll have speckles here and there.
3. Pour mixture onto inside surface of glass. _Spend a long time (at least 15 minutes) moving the object around and repeatedly re-coat all areas as the mixture begins to thicken._ You'll see what I mean.
4. Elevate item and allow excess to drip out. Allow to dry overnight.
Good luck!
"Easy way make"
@@LanceThumping Ha, been staring at the title for ages and didn't catch that. Tanks!
I would have focused on the rim first, while the volume was high, slowly rolling it. Then you can take care of the easy part in the center afterwards.
@@TechnologyConnextras Happens to the best of us.
The only thing that could make this video more exciting is to add the drying part of the paint in real time.
I love how this channel is part history of a hardly known format, part how complicated tech works, and part Alec's apparent obsession with light bulbs
I can relate... from around 3 to 15 years i was fascinated by flashlights... i made then, bought them, used them. It was not a fear of dark, just amazed by the power of have a light generator on my hand. :)
this is why i love the channel haha (the light bulbs got me into the channel and stuck around for the rest)
Alec Love Lamp
Has anyone checked he's not a moth?
not just light bulbs, *light diffusion*
When you showed the original lamp, and then brought out the frosted version, I felt like there was a missed opportunity to talk about the magic of buying two of them.
I came to write this. I found myself saying that sentence very often.
At this point I have a pavlovian response...even without Alec saying it out loud, I mentally added " Through the magic of buying two!"
That's for the main channel, not extras
No effort has been left in the video. Truly must have taken a lot of hard work to make sure of it.
As a Brit of a certain age I thought Alec was going to say "Here's one I made earlier"
As someone who often thins paint for transparency, my recommendation instead of PVA glue and water, would be to just head to your local craft store and pick up a bottle of clear acrylic paint medium. It will still be thinable with water, but it will dive a more durable finish that will absolutely not yellow with age.
Also, airbrushing... Coats as thin as you want.
@@GamesFromSpace Air brushing requires hardware though, and tends to make a mess
That's a really good idea. No guesswork about how the mixed chemistry will work, and confidence about long term stability. Art/craft supply stores are great resources even for more technical projects.
Yep. He's trying to reinvent the wheel
@@gwiz6278 I don't think he's trying to reinvent the wheel. I think that he never considered the idea in the first place and as he stated in the video couldn't find anyone else talking about how to do this.
Alec I don't know how you managed to pull it off but you finally made watching paint dry interesting.
Cheers to you brother
I've been designing and building lamps for 35 years (professionally) and I am TRULY impressed with your results!
COOL - I wanted to set up a company a few years ago doing freestanding indirect lighting lamps. I loved the geometry needed to achieve the uniform light combined with the aesthetics. to look right it has to be technically good. You cant just make a "thing".
@@piccalillipit9211 you totally can just make a "thing"!
I'm quite interested to know how one enters such a profession. That sounds like a very fulfilling job
@@ghostify6502 Either find a local lamp company or just start making your own lamps. Lamps are very easy to make as they're literally just a plugged cord and a bulb holder on the end. Just learn how to wire it together if you don't already know and get building (I know a few people who sell lamps between FB market place and etsy and make a living)
@cadneemountai2791 this whole channel is just a bunch of "things" that he finds cool usually due to how theyre not useful in any modern circumstance anymore
Couple of suggestions:
For people who do not have a vacuum chamber (we do, for metal casting), you can use a "small device that vibrates at high speed", usually battery powered and available in multiple sizes and shapes. Applied to the base of the container it will encourage small bubbles to merge and move to the surface.
Next - a mixture like this can stand for a long time if tightly capped. mix in a jar that is "just large enough", cap it and let sit for a day. virtually all bubbles will come out.
next - to pop bubbles have some toothpicks handy.
And in place of cups, purchase model maker stands at a craft store. They are just small wire or plastic pyramids that are designed to support something with minimum contact area.
Great idea. I think 🤔 my wife may have something that would work.
if you have visitors, remember to hide the setup, so they dont notice the vibrating device thats available in multiple sizes and shapes, or there might be questions!
Or you can explain that its an industry standard device, usually referred to as an "engineers best friend"
I'm gonna stop this beating around the bush, who knew that a sex toy would be so great for removing bubbles from a liquid?
You can say electric toothbrush, we've all been there
@@kitsunekaze93 If you have visitors, just use a rumbly gamepad for PC and let it rumble using some software
I love that he pointed out that the equal parts are measured by weight. As a chef, I often come across recipes that make it seem like volume and weight are interchangeable as it's (at least for cooking) the case with water. Figuring out the exact ratios can be a huge pain, which can be prevented by this one little note.
This would be fun to see in green for me. I always loved the old desk lamps with the green glass.
A bit 20s mobster style... Cool... It should be the same procedure, just two layers, one green paint, the second one white, to give a better light reflection downwards
Had the exact same thought! I would be afraid to use a too light shade of green though.
Yes I thought the same thing.
If I could make similar lamps and not spend $300 on real one that would be great.
I just want some uranium glass now.
"accountants lamp" "bankers lamp" "lawyers lamp" or "judges lamp" are some search terms to hit on items like that. Like the transparent green visor youd see someone cracking on an adding machine wear especially in throwback scenes of the 1940s, the green was believed to be better for preserving eyesight if you had to be exposed to artificial light all day.
I agree, the green and gold is a great classic early-mid 20th century paper pusher look. My dad had one on his desk for the longest time......of course they got rid of it when that modern day 'everything flat white soulless ugly with jaunting squares everywhere and died poop in the sun taupe' look came into vogue....damn them....
From a person who paints with acrylics, bleached titanium white pigment is opaque, zinc white pigment is translucent, you could use unbleached titanium to get a warm white. As a side note I use a mirror as my palette when painting so I can figure out just that, the transparency, and it peels right off to be used again and again. Perhaps zinc white may give a more frosted appearance. Acrylic gel medium can be watered down, the dif between liquid, gel medium and paste is the length of the molecule; liquid is short and runny, paste is long chains and is thick. All can be watered down. Acrylic artists mediums tend not to yellow.
From a person who has done finger painting back in elementary school, your comment is impressive, almost supernatural, as I ponder how much unique knowledge and experience you must have to be able to write such a comment.
damn you know your stuff!
Using glass for a pallette is brilliant, thank you. I hate wasting materials.
@@blah2blah65 that was it, all I know, I just used it all up
Painter's tape around the edge to make a lip might buy you some time before the drips get too out of hand. Another tip is doing a high pour to prevent bubbles. If you don't have a vacuum chamber and you want to get the bubbles out of a thick liquid mix, pouring it high so it makes a thin long stream helps prevent them.
Came here today this
use a lighter or micro butane torch, they use the technique for epoxy tables to pop bubbles
That is an excellent idea.
I have learned something valuable today.
@@jc5495 Remember not to do this with flammable paint.
This may truly be the best RUclips channel ever created. Mostly subjects I don't remotely care about and yet I'm still watching the whole thing with all my attention, and still end up remembering and using what he explains in my life somehow
Absolutely. More often than not the things he talks about are things I had no prior interest in. But I think one of the reasons he's so good is by the time he's done, I find myself getting excited to go out and make my own milk white lamp, or buy some weird outdated media player, or finally use my dishwasher the way it was supposed to be used, etc. Lol
Finally a channel that is almost making paint dry interesting
Finally! Watch paint dry episode 😃 Love your work, the attention to detail, thoroughly researched topics and the level of interest you bring to mundane appliances. Dishwasher episodes have been my favorites and I've forced many people to watch them to boredom 🤪
After the social and gastric overstimulation of the holidays, watching paint dry was exactly what I needed tonight to wind down. And not just watching paint dry, but watching Alec watch paint dry with great enthusiasm.
Alec found a unique way to make his audience watch (literally) paint dry! 😁
Excellent video!
I'm wondering if there's a way to give it a mat finish (inside) to help with diffusion of light (ideal for LEDS)
LOL on the paint dry thing
Perhaps replacing the PVA glue with Mod Podge, which comes in gloss, matte and flat, IIRC.
That stuff is usually available right near the craft paint.
He did say while stirring that he's been scraping the bottom this whole time!
My thought exactly! Watching paint dry 😅
@@wishunter9000 I would counsel against that, did you not get the part where trying to speed things up may lead to undesirable side effects? 😛
PVA glue is very similar to the "medium" or binder in acrylic paint... so if it ends up yellowing, some "fine art" grade acrylic paints and mediums that are specifically formulated for light fastness and to prevent yellowing would probably work. Like... Liquitex basics titanium white and use either matte medium or gloss medium to "dilute" the white (to adjust the transparency). Optionally throw a layer of varnish over the top to help protect it and add super extra yellowing protection.
Mod podge dudes lol
varnish will itself turn yellow though
My technologically fascinated and fascinating friend, you mixed paint, water, and glue in your basement while talking to a camera and as of now there are 711k views. It's not just the camera but all of us who appreciate what you do, sharing enthusiastic enlightenment. I've learned much from your videos. Your efforts have educated and brightened my life forever.
P.S. I've been searching for an inexpensive way to make milk glass for a white whale project for ten years. You have my utmost thanks.
Really tempted to try this with green paint, I’ve always loved those old brass library lamps with the green glass shades.
'posh people lamps' as I've heard them called.
I think it's known as a "Banker's Lamp"
Would require two coats as those are white underneath, I think
lawyer lamp
You'd probably need to include some white paint, since other colors usually aren't opaque
I love these channels because it feels equally relatable and like a kind grandpa is leading everyone through a project.
Yeah he's got the grandpa music and everything... on his other videos. It works
You can use a palm sander to get bubbles out of liquids! Just turn it upside down and remove the sandpaper, then hold the cup on the sanding surface. The vibration agitates it enough to make the bubbles rise quickly.
I thought you were talking about sanding the finished coating. Maybe go to your wife's bedside table for inspiration if you don't have a palm sander.
@@dougcox835 *laughs, then laughs again in electric toothbrush*
Other vibrating devices might work too.
@@ivanskyttejrgensen7464 yeah of course a industrial concrete vibrator would work great!
@@BloodSprite-tan hey I'm not here to kink shame anyone, if it works for you then it works for you man
I have only ever seen your documentary style videos and it's trippy watching your crafty videos with a totally different aesthetic and personality
Was just thinking that too! It's interesting to see them act so candidly and unscripted!
@@Benjamoose pronouns are they/them?
This is very similar to what my Dad does for shading his greenhouse in the summer when it gets too hot. He uses PVA mixed with powdered chalk and water. It's handy because the whole thing can be peeled of in one piece when the temperature drops back down.
Chalk sounds like a great idea
@@baan7782pretty sure chalk is what is generally used for that purpose, haven't heard about the PVA glue though. Sounds handy!
We always used to use lime from a builders merchant or ironmongers to whitewash cellar walls and greenhouses etc. This was long before pva glue was invented and it worked perfectly and was very cheap. In the UK it can be bought from B & Q stores.
@@Rob-e8w neither chalk nor lime won't let that much light through, which is what you may want in a greenhouse in summer, but not so much in this lamp case.
I’ve been doing this for years with just store bought ‘buttermilk’ I think it’s called in English. It smells a little as it sets but when dry it’s fine, washes of easy with water.
That means it’s not water resistant though, might try your dad’s trick for some situations it could be the better option.
A few tips from the miniatures side of RUclips:
Like James Wood said, matte medium would be a good substitute for PVA, but so would Mod Podge (very similar to Elmers, with slight differences that might help out, not sure in this case).
Also, to help with the bubbles, pour your mixture from height. The long stream it will form will help keep bubbles from traveling down from the cup.
For other colors, alcohol ink might be worth trying. It's gained recent popularity for painting because it's more translucent.
I would just like to add that I tried a high pour and this mixture is too thin for that to work. It actually made many more bubbles! It really is quite liquidy - which to be clear (heh) is what I wanted for consistency in coat. Using a little torch lighter to pop bubbles on the glass seemed to work the best.
Also, in subsequent attempts imperfections kept appearing in the same pattern - so I think they're actually the result of surface imperfections sort of catching the glue as it passes. They almost had a tail like a comet! Not sure how commonly that might happen, but these shades are hand-made so they probably have more variability as a result.
@@TechnologyConnextras smiled and looked up at my bedroom lamp as I watched this. It has three frosted globes that are now multicoloured with streaks (a bit Barbarella-ish😀) as I used a similar paint pour technique (used by fluid pour artists etc) - there's the odd blob on mine too, it's where the acrylic hasn't fully mixed with the glue/water. Another great video btw👍😀
I tried using mod podge the mixture separates as it dries
Since it was mentioned, matte paint versus gloss...
I'm not sure how much the glue (and/or Mod Podge) interferes with this, but since you're applying it to glass, gloss is probably the better option as it will create a smoother surface contact. The differences will be microscopic until the light is turned on, at which point I'd imagine there might be something of an odd pattern that would be visible.
The visual appeal of the pattern is going to be largely subjective, but for the purposes of an even and regular surface, I'd think gloss is the better option.
@@padoco73 I've heard that a lot of glossy stuff actually uses crushed glass so I could see the glass in the mixture helping to fill in gaps and improve transparency.
Pouring tip: when pouring silicon liquid tooling into a mold, we would always pour from high up to allow the silicon to "ribbon", or pour out in a very thin sheet or stream, as it would squeeze out a lot of the bubbles, and usually wouldn't entrain more when it pooled. Your mixture may not be thick enough to do this properly, but it's worth a shot?
He said in another comment that he tried a high pour and it actually made more bubbles because of how thin the mixture is.
A friend taught me a painting tip when working on smaller pieces that don't weigh too much (such as your lampshade); I've been using it on ceramic planters.
When you're trying to paint something all at once, there's always the problem of the paint being messed up where it comes in contact with the surface it rests on, in your case the plastic cups.
Find a couple pieces of quarter-round molding at the hardware store. Home Depot sells one made of white plastic which is even better than the wood (at least for this use).
Set the molding down on its rounded side, so when you place your painted item on it, it has only minimal contact with the surface, resulting in a much smaller area of paint that gets disturbed while drying.
This has worked really well for me and has drastically cut down on the amount of touchup work.
Good luck!
Or just turn the cups over.
If you get a vacuum chanber, don't vacuum it TOO much because the water in the glue can boil and turn it into a bubble bath. Also get a silicone cooking sheet and hold it between the opening and a board. You then have a closed bowl and you can really speed up the coating process
Was looking for this comment before I posted anything. I work in refrigeration and we pull a deep vacuum before charging, specifically to get any moisture _out_ of the system
A pressure pot might be a better solution.
Not afraid to look stupid: would a household vacuum cleaner be enough to at least help get most (some) bubbles out, or pop?
@@ArnaudMEURET Maybe a good idea. I use a vacuum pump all the time at work, but a shop vac might just be a good alternative in this case,and be easy to set up Perhaps an aquarium with a plexiglass top with a hole cut for the hose and just some putty to seal it. Of coarse i am 100% certain i will never have to frost the glass of anything in this lifetime. 😆 But nice to know someone made a how-to video about it anyway. lol
I kinda want to see that.
I'm impressed by how nice this looks. I have to admit, I don't really like the lamp with clear glass, but with the white color applied they are quite pretty.
I was diagnosed with insonnia, i take 2 different medication: zolpidem and trazodon, but in the last few months your videos change my life. You have a calm, relaxing voice and mood. I love your contents, you are my new bed time story :) keep going and thanks
Now there's a backhanded compliment if ever I saw one one!😏😂
has the coating yellowed over the past 11 months?
Has the coating yellowed over the 11 months since that?
Has the coating yellowed since the 2 weeks since that?
Has the coating been yellowing as we speak?
What about as I speak?
Me
A couple of bubble-popping tips from the world of silicone/resin molds:
- pouring the solution from a higher position so the stream is very narrow which can pop bubbles mid-stream
- hitting the bubbles with a heat gun/hairdryer to inflate and pop them
"pouring the solution from a higher position so the stream is very narrow which can pop bubbles mid-stream"
Ahh yes, the ribbon pour! Hello my fellow tool (maker). 😃
Casting, mold making, tooling, is a great way to get a feel for material handling. SIdenote: the two part silicone jacket mold, while a pain in the butt, is an absolute godsend for complicated geometries. Just had to share that with someone who might appreciate it too. Oh, and incase you havent happened across it yet, you know how hexane and paraffin is a preferred industry silicon release.......normal old every day nothing special blue Dawn dishsoap works better and is a million times cheaper. A few squirts in a cup and a few drops of water to thin it a touch (but no foaming!) grab a chip brush and paint it on. Its so much easier to deal with the stroke marks too. No more tetchy silicone allergic reactions ruining your cast!
this only works if the liquid is thick, otherwise you'll end up frothing the paint.
I'm curious how it'd look with green since you mentioned coloring. Sorta like those old brass desk lamps with green covers.
Hmmm... That would look nice in green
That was my thought. It'd be best with a nice deep green.
Aren't those like ... green on the outside, but white on the inside to reflect a decent amount of light onto the desk for writing and stuff? So ... I guess green with THIS method ... would be kinda ... weird. (maybe 2 layered ... but who knows how this would work out)
@@TheScytheMoron with pva glue the green top or inner coat would melt away trying to put layer 2 of white. Theres no adhesion nor absorption happening to prevent that i think?
@@TheScytheMoron could do a green layer and then, once dry, this white layer inside, no?
I really liked the style of this video! It has a different vibe than normal. I enjoyed the DIY aspect of it, and it felt like you were more connected to us. Well done!
the "different vibe" of literally watching paint dry
Honestly I *love* that lamp design in general save for the colourless glass - very easy to see how that not only looks weird but also how it makes the light less pleasant overall. I wonder how much more popular it would have been if they'd used milk glass or some other colour instead.
They are starting to come out with some more tinted glass lamps at ikea now, maybe they got the memo
FYI I find ethanol (I use methylated spirits) can thin PVA glue quite nicely, either instead of water or in combination with water. I find it makes it quite smooth and makes it dry a little faster as the ethanol evapourates.
And if the lens is acrylic or polycarbonate, the ethanol will frost the glass all by itself. I use ethanol to make almost any paint or urethane glossy
ive used acetone and Isopropyl alcohol as alternatives to Ethanol
15:34 - there is a technique referred to as high pour. You lift up the container high and pour the liquid slowly in a thin line or band and it minimizes the bubble forming and if there are already bubbles, you can get rid of them that way. Sometimes gently tapping the container can agitatet the bubbles to raise to the tip and it helps them pop (you can try the container that holds you mix or the bulb in this case). You an also introduce some heat to the bubbles but I'm not so sure about those details. The Crafsman (yes, no T in his name) has some videos on silocone that can help you.
maybe you can try and pick up the coating from the bottom of the cup using something like a turkey baster, leaving the bubbles at the top
@@lavinia-whateley ive also seen people use gas torches and lighters.
@@lavinia-whateley I'm pretty sure it would start to dry the glue, resin doesn't cure with heat, but you'll evaporate the solvent faster with PVA glue.
On the other hand some well distributed heat might help reduce the 15 Minutes...
. . .
Whatever.
_I'm so sorry, I just had to do it._
_Final Fantasy 8 was my entry into the series_
For the bubbles after pouring, you might have better luck using a small torch (eg. a creme brulee torch) and very quickly sweeping over the surface. Be careful not to hold in any one spot for any amount of time. This is what artists who do acrylic pouring do, and it seems to work really well. Otherwise, it looks like a great job! Well done :)
Heat guns are cheap, don't use fuel, and the temperature can be configured. Plus, the airflow helps pop bubbles.
@@GamesFromSpace yes, I forgot to mention heat guns. 🤷♂️
I was looking for this, first thing I thought when he mentioned bubbles being an issue
To add: the heat of the torch causes the air in the bubble to expand violently, popping it from inside-out. Heat guns can work but if you want perfection a small torch is the better option.
Good idea. This works for epoxy too.
17:11 I'm unreasonably happy to learn there's someone else out there in the world that feels the exact same way about owning a vacuum chamber as I do.
I love how chill and conversational this video felt. This is a great format and I love no effort november
As a longtime fan I just have to say, I really love the unrelenting positivity. Your snark is delightful, but the sheer joy was entirely contagious.
About the oven drying attempt:
"White PVA, Polyurethane glues, contact cements typically fail above 150 f or 80c."
Woodworkers will usually use a heat gun to take apart glued joints.
You reflowed the glue when you heated it up.
I tried your recipe and it worked out pretty well! I don't know if it truly improved on the technique but I set the lamp bowl on a bowl of water. The humidity prolonged the drying and allowed the paint suspension to flow to a more consistent coating thickness. It took longer to dry but I think using humidity allows the bubbles to work their way out. I don't know how to send you a picture but you probably get the idea.
You set it open side down over a bowl of water? I'm trying to picture it in my head
I don’t often get first but when I do, I’m glad it’s here
We call them paddle pop sticks in Australia, but we're so infused with American culture here that popsicle stick is also completely understandable. I love the precision of your thinking and work. It's a breath of fresh air
"Lolly stick" would be the equivalent UK term, but again we'd know exactly what you meant.
You can use a blow torch right after coating the paint to get rid of the bubbles. Well known trick amongst acrylic paint pouring artists... Also, if you add Floetrol or silicone lube to the mixture you can get nice "cell" patterns if you're into that.
While this is an excellent idea, it should also be noted that most glues are notorious for carmelizing.
If you do use a blow torch, I would think you'd need to be very brisk while doing so to avoid any browning.
That said, you are absolutely correct in that the bubbles should be mostly eliminated.
@@padoco73 PVA glue is acrylic - and I'll bet the craft paint is also acryclic. That said, I'd use a heat gun to be on the safe side.
@@jpdemer5 honestly, a hairdryer on high could work as well
I’d recommend a heat gun or hairdryer personally. What Alec mixed is basically a thin acrylic paint pour as the pouring medium that most acrylic pour artists use is literally just pva glue.
You can also use a toothpick
Omg. You are a savior. Lol. This is exactly what I’ve been looking for to update a 1990s light in my kitchen until we do a full remodel. Much appreciated.
“As I said, this is messy, you will make messes, embrace the mess. Life is messy.”
Thank you, I needed this today.
I do acrylic paint pouring art all the time which is essentially what you did. To get rid of the bubbles you can immediately grab a small butane torch like the ones used for cooking. Run it quickly over the painted surface while it’s wet. Be careful not to touch the flame to the paint and watch the bubbles pop. Also I wonder how well it will last as the bulbs still put off heat even though they are led. I would recommend skipping the glue and water and use flotrol that u can get from Home Depot or Lowe’s. Also acrylic paints don’t usually yellow or crack as they are somewhat flexible. You can also try fabric paint or leather paint as it’s meant to be flexible. Anyway you had a fantastic idea. Hard to believe they don’t make a spray on milk substance.
i think the yellowing concern was with the glue, not the paint
I would just go with airbrush with acrylic paint. No need to pour, glue or water only airbrush thinned paint.
@@Baronello good idea
@@LieseFury your probably right. So then I would eliminate the blue because it’s probably not necessary.
‘Pass me a popsicle stick please’ would be a totally understandable phrase here in New Zealand. What I’m not so sure of is why I’m so into this video, when I know I will never perform the process myself. Excellent work.
Paddlepop stick might be more common in Australia, I don't know why, we just get attached to brand names, same with Esky.
Well, this is all in English... The Swedish word would translate into "ice cream pin".
Two interesting variations from countries I imagined used English closer to the mother tongue. In the UK of course it's a lollypop stick.
@@Dranok1 Yes! Odd blend down here, weighted towards UK but some US influence. ‘Popsicle’ would be the ice lolly (flat wooden stick like a doctor instructing ‘say aaaah’), ‘lollipop’ would only be a small rounded white Chupa-Chups stick. Hoping that brand is globally understood. Useless for painting a lamp quickly, anyway.
2 year update in December? I wanna know how these have aged
I am pretty impressed by your result, particularly because the lamp light in the finished product becomes far more comfortable to look at without having to squint or feel like the direct light is overwhelming close up, so I would probably want to use something like this if I ever get a lamp with a clear glass top, especially because of the comfort it would provide to my eyes.
This whole darn video is like watching paint dry!!! Actually I watched the whole thing in real time thinking what an awesome idea this was and how much I enjoy the look of milk glass and thinking of crafty projects where I could use this.
Came to the comments to make sure somebody made that joke.
+1 to what others have suggested: give acrylic medium a try instead of glue. Medium is the glue and thickness of paint, you can actually make your own paint by mixing pigment power right into medium to create exactly what you need!
Yes. This. Solves every problem and even the potential problem of yellowing.
I’ve watched other people do stuff like this and get bored. But this was fascinating, fun, and calming. Your commentary is hilarious.
FYI this is the IKEA ÅTERSKEN lamp, no longer available in table lamp but they do have a similar ceiling lamp, and also some wall sconce lamps (oddly already with white/frosted glass)
Given how hard it is to have next to you at eye level, I'm not surprised. If they just made it with glass like this, though, it would have been perfect!
Nearest ikea is a 230 mile round trip. (it's in Phoenix and I live in Tucson).
@@WaynoGur and its such a boring drive...
@@WaynoGur shipping items to your door is a thing
@@marcogenovesi8570 But you don't get the meatballs 🤔
I'd suggest using an acrylic paint reducer instead of water and maybe airbrush transparent paint instead of craft acrylics. It might get rid of your bubble problem but it may be thinner and require more coats. There are also UV protective clear coat additives you could use instead of glue, that would keep that white from yellowing and help with durability but it would mean taking the paint off would be more work. Of course if you could get this done much nicer and faster with a spray gun but that's not exactly as cheap and simple as this.
this, my mother is an artist and she swore by ammonia as a reducer.
Airbrush paint is just pre-reduced acrylic paint. And it’s usually reduced with distilled water…..
Source: I airbrush.
yeah there are better modern alternatives to PVA and water.
Spray painting is also more manageable, just need to go light on coating and rectify details, imperfections and transparency with more passes. The more layers are applied, the more uniform the result is.
@@SudosFTW IIRC ammonia is only used with oil-based paint and it won't work with other types.
I also though about anti-UV varnish to avoid yellowing but creating a prime layer and a finishing layer of it, instead of simply mixing it with acrylic. I guess would protect more.
Concerning paint for Christmas lightbulbs, make sure to look at art student grade paints, those usually have more specific information on their characteristics, while also not becoming too expensive for what is a cheap use, as opposed to artist grade paints. There's certain pigments which are transparent, and those can let light through when applied in thin layers. Some examples:
- Naphtol red (look for cadmium red hues if the pigment isn't explicitly stated)
- Diarylide yellow (a yellow-orange, like the one seen in modern pavement markings)
- Pthalocyanine blue (a highly saturated and really intense blue, still transparent)
- Greens made by mixing Aryline yellow (light yellow color) with Pthalocyanine green (dark and highly saturated turquoise color)
- Dioxazyne violet
This is fantastic, like that is a SHOCKINGLY even coating! And it has an easy to remember formula of common materials! And most importantly, it's reversible, you can scrape it off the glass if you ever change your mind!
And you could make the craft paint ANY COLOR TOO. The possibilities have me really excited :D Thank you so much for sharing your discovery/methods
A similar mixture can be used to give 3D PLA prints a metallic coating. Use very fine metal powder instead of the craft paint and a little less water. Works also very well. It's a mixture we used long a time ago in the 70s to pimp small objects around modell train landscapes. 🙂And yes, build milky glass lights for modell street lights.
Never tried it with metal powder, but I can confirm this works with graphite and Mod Podge. Jut rub it down with some aluminum foil to make it shine.
The "Milk Glass" fixture reminds me of all of those real Milk Glass ceiling lights and table lamps that my grandparents had in their 1950's constructed home, and they all eventually got replaced over the years. The clear fixture looks like the dome on top of the robot from the original "Lost In Space" TV series. 😉
And the bulbs are ugly.
Honestly, I've been watching your videos for ages and I have to say it's good to see you smiling. It looks like you really enjoyed making this one. Looking forward to more videos!
Any updates on yellowing after a year?
And cracking
Need a collab with Baumgartner Restorations where he cleans the layer off with Qtips while piling Sass on the choice of materials.
less bubbles is more better... words to live by. Those lamps look fantastic, thanks for sharing this.
If you want to do colours, I recommend using acrylic ink. You can even get these inks in varying opacities.
Also, mixing with water tends to cause the paint to bead up, as water has high surface tension. Add a drop of dishwasher rinse aid (I know how you feel about this...!) To defeat the surface tension.
Finally, on bubbles, you can pop them all with a lighter or if you have a kitchen torch - makes very light work.
Great work on this - looks like a really effective method!
In terms of lowering surface tension I wonder if adding some EtOH (like Everclear) to the mix would result in fewer bubbles. However, I'm not sure why a spray acrylic paint wouldn't get the same result as his homemade mix technique.
@@xsleep1 tbh, it probably would.
In model making, we use something like mod podge mostly as a sealer - the effect of using water and PVA here is basically the same, protecting the paint from being easily damaged by the shade clips or when changing a bulb.
What do you think would be a good recipe for getting that classic green library lamp look?
@@KnomChomper the easiest way is going to be to find a green acrylic that most closely matches your desired outcome.
Mixing paints is difficult to recommend in text, as pigments used in different paints don't always blend the same - some greens will use only green pigment, others will have a blend of cyan and yellow, so adding a yellow pigment to the blend won't always have the same impact, even if the starting colours are the same.
Just remember that expensive paints win out here, as they will contain more actual pigment. Cheap paints tend to become translucent when thinned (though that might be desireable in this instance!)
@@bazzatron9482 thank you! So just 1/3 of each but instead of the paint use a high quality acrylic ink that closely matched the color I’m going for?
I'm glad you pointed out it's equal parts by weight, because I usually think of equal parts by volume
in painting and other chemical mix the dosage is mainly by weight as it's more precise than volume and it allows using ingredients in solid forms. Also for chemical reactions discrepancies in molar mass is the major reason measurements are done in weight instead of volume.
Currently, I am in the process of remaking a light fixture and changing the glass to resemble milk glass. But I didn't know how to do it. You are the only one doing lightning milk glass. Thanks for the tutorial and showing how to mix the products. I'm so excited to try it after watching your video. Thanks and wish me luck!😊❤
Nice! For cleanup and/or starting over, isopropyl alcohol should easily dissolve both the acrylic paint and PVA glue.
Can now confirm this worked great! (bubbles got to me so... round 3!)
@@TechnologyConnextras Haha, looking forward to the sequel!
But yeah, i was wondering what would work best, i kept thinking you'd mention some paint remover/acetone, like, what would've been the ratio for that solution?
Btw, the lamps reminded me of Metroid.
I love your channels so much. The combination of you finding interesting things to say and teach on topics I’ve often never even considered before, and explain yourself clearly, while being so comfortable speaking on camera, is just such a winning combo.
Also, I’ll almost certainly use this technique someday. So thank you for that!
Now if you could come up with some way to make ‘smoked glass,’ I’d be eternally grateful.
just add smoke
@@MrGollum27 Yeah, just swirl some of that left over liquid smoke from the last BBQ.
If you're really concerned about yellowing, the magic word is "archival". Searching "archival pva glue" does reveal some results, so I believe there are options. May cost more, though. For reference, light bulbs use powdered white silica.
Basically all PVA inherently yellows, is the thing - archival probably just means it's acid-free and won't cause paper to degrade.
About the bubbles - a common way bakers and concrete crafters will use to pop bubbles in their mediums is by picking up the container and tapping it against a table/horizontal surface. (Unless you're making macarons, where they'll violently slam the cooking sheet on the bench) It brings any bubbles from deeper in the batter/cement up to the surface to pop!
Alec -- I love you, man. What a cool video getting to see you more casual and "no-effort" while still excitedly and methodically talking about your interests and fun nerdy things you learn about. Keep up the great work; I have nothing but good things to say about you :)
I use lineco pva glue for my book binding that's supposed to never yellow. It's a little more expensive than Elmer's but if yours does ever yellow it might be worth it to look into lineco.
This was so much fun to watch! Your excitement is really contagious! Thank you for sharing!
I appreciate that you didn’t speed up your process. This is what doing arts and crafts is like, and I find it delightful 😊
Oh boy I was wondering how we were following up the christmas light painting insanity.
Glad there's another entrant in the "Alec goes insane over lights" lineup.
Just to be clear I'm 100% behind this. It looks great.
I began a course on watercolour, having never ever used it before, and I find these unedited videos to be very therapeutic. It helps me concentrate and feel not so alone. Thank you for 'talking to a camera' in your spare time.
The natural pacing of the unedited videos gives it a very Bob Ross vibe.
@@mox3909 yes it does!!
This was the most relaxing DIY + vacuum chamber purchase justification thought process I'll see all year
Thank you! I also own this lamp and *this* was exactly what I was thinking of for the last few years
A one day build? Not what I expected but even more delighted, brilliant idea.
Btw for anyone curious, the lamp is called ikea ätersken table lamp if you can manage to find one.
The problem with Idea products is, to ask for one specific item, you need to know how to pronounce its product name first. 🤣
@@dashcamandy2242 Just be Swedish. Problem solved.
An idea to get the edges without drips (at least at first)... Use some plastic wrap to "seal" up the opening long enough to roll the mixture over all the interior surface area then remove the plastic wrap for the drying process
My thoughts exactly!
I love green glass lamp shades, so I will definitely be trying this technique out using green paint.
Also, you can make a really simple vacuum chamber if you have a vacuum sealer and a mason jar adapter. Use a wide mouth jar that the cup fits inside of.
Would then suggest you do 2 coats, one by the glass green, then once dry a white inner coat to diffuse the light.
+1 I'm not sure if this heart of this message got through to everyone here, but you do not need to put the whole glass shade into a vacuum chamber to remove the bubbles. You merely need to vacuum the cup of mixed glaze before you apply it to remove the bubbles you stirred in. And for that, you can get away with a rather small vacuum chamber. Heck, you could get away with a hand vacuum pump like a MityVac on a mason jar, because you don't even need (or want) all that strong a vacuum. You certainly don't want to start boiling the water in the paint. All you need to do is inflate any bubbles to the point that they rise out of the solution.
You've summarized my food storage method pretty well. Vacuum sealer + mason jar adapter = dry goods that stay fresh for much longer than usual. (Also leftovers that last forever, but I'm not sure that's a selling point for most people.)
It's not quite as good as a vacuum chamber, but it's damn good. And for food that really has to last a long time, throwing in a small oxygen eater packet helps a lot.
And yes, I also use this to remove bubbles from liquids, so it works well.
this is honestly some great content to put on in the background. getting lots of cool info while not demanding the full attention
for clear color "dye" that you mentioned, take a look for acrylic inks. If you want something with a very high pigment load, look for paints marketed for miniature painting -- they have a very high pigment load since they're expected to be heavily diluted. Vallejo Game Inks would do great -- they're partially transparent and the dye is in solution instead of suspended in medium. I've used it to "dye" clear plastics by spraying diluted ink with an airbrush.
You might consider using mod podge instead of pure PVA, it's more designed for this kind of application and easy to find in craft stores.
Use a a torch or fireplace lighter to pop those bubbles without traces. That's how it's done after pouring larger surfaces of resins. Also, I believe that using more of your liquid would make it easier and more evenly covered as well as more evenly dripping while drying. Small computer fan blowing into the center from beneath would probably help it dry faster as it will force moist air out.
This, or a heat gun!
That's exactly what I was thinking a blowtorch. and I wonder if using the two part epoxy type resin instead of glue would work better
@@katiebarber407 i think you'd risk heat fractures in the glass since usually those 2 part epoxy resins are exothermic and can give off quite a bit of heat in the curing process also I think they shrink a bit in the curing and are not particularly flexible. They also are very picky about other liquids changing the proportion blend and affecting the cure
The world is a better place because of this channel.
Awesome tip on the paint and Elmer's glue!
Etching cream sucks really, really bad. It gives you a tiny bit of surface texture but that's about it. The best (and by far the quickest) way to frost glass is to sandblast it and use 80-120 grit garnet. It does a spectacular job in just a few seconds. You may need to reduce the air pressure to your sandblaster though. I had glass cracking problems above 90 PSI. Staying below 80 PSI, at least with my sandblaster, seems to be more kind to the glass. The effect is not the same as the milk glass in your video though.
I haven't seen it, I don't believe
But I'm honestly surprised that no one makes frosted milk glass. Frosted glass (in the manner that you just suggested) with a similar milk glass process as shown in the video
@@Spiker985Studios i mean it can exist, these are different techniques achieving different effects. depending on the shape of the object, milk the inside and sandblast the outside, it would definitely diffuse a lot better than just the pva glue.
Pro tip: tape the edge. Masking tape can help resolve drips going on the outside, and you can score whatever widths you need with a craft knife before scoring the end and ripping it off that way for thinner edges if you do not want to create a higher edge.
Very nicely done. That looks amazing. And getting a vac chamber changed my life. I use it mostly with silicone and resin for model making but it has 1000s of uses. One thing that might help in the absence of a vac chamber (for anyone out there following along) when you pour it in do so slowly and from a higher elevation. Just a few feet and a gentle thin ribbon will pop tons of bubbles as gravity stretches them out. That's what we used to do with silicone per-aformentioned vac chamber.
Hey, just a random Thank You for teaching me (and so many others) over the years. Sending all the best.
This is VERY useful for me, i love making decorative lamps, and is always on the look out for nice glass pieces and light diffusers, im gonna try this :)
A technique for bubbles I’ve seen in epoxy pours is to hit the surface really quickly with a torch. The heat seems to make the air expand and pop the bubbles. Plus you get to play with a torch and that’s always fun
Exactly what I was thinking! I don't think it would scorch the PVA since the trick is to just skim the surface real quick. Not enough heat for long enough to do any harm!
I was going to say use a heat gun at distance to remove the bubbles.A hair dryer on low but hot might even work. Also at scale flood the glass shade, empty and move on to the next one?!
They also use a spritz of alcohol to lower the surface tension to do the same thing.
Epoxy is different than jizz glue. I'm not so sure it'd work.
I'd probably run the torch under with the other side of the glass. It would pop the bubble and not affect the mixture inside.
You always come up with something different that I haven't seen. I think I'm going to try the painting glass. You're truly a creative person and probably a good person to hang out with
Fantastic! I'll remember this, it may be very useful one day. Looks great!!!
I've always liked your videos, but the excitement of a successful experiment comes through! And even if things yellow a bit eventually, it's so straight forward I'm excited to try this technique!
This is the first time the secondary channel has been recommended to me, and though the first channel is my favorite, I love how informal this one is and how relaxing it is to see Alec like this
@SerifSansSerif ▪︎ 2ndary channel?
Interesting technique. I have collected a few miniature glass bottles for an LED desk lamp project but hadn't figured out how to frost them yet. Going to give this a go!
Got to say I wouldn't have ever watched anybody else do this process I love you channel
In the UK, we call "popsicles" either "ice lollies" or just "lollies" - with lolly being short for lollipop, and the sticks are called "lollipop sticks".
Wow, it's interesting and quite clever. Those sticks could be referred to either as "ice cream sticks" or "lollipop sticks" in Russia, there's no such concept fusion.
You are not only mixing paint in the basement at 10:43 but making new friends all over the world and hanging out with the old ones. It's like an introvert friendly warm reception.
This came out looking really really good, I have to say, visually at least on camera it fools me pretty good.
A few small tips. After you mix, pour it into a second container. You start close to the container them pull it up higher up as soon as you stablish a stream. Does two things. It will reduce bubbles (the mix will drip in a long thin stream, which will make it easier for gas bubbles to leave the liquid on its way down), and also guarantee you only have the well mixed parts in your final mix, because stuff near walls is always prone to not mix. You can also use the same pouring technique when putting it inside of the glass.
You probably can do it in two layers. First a apply a version of the mixture with a paintbrush as a thin layer (I am assuming a thinner mix is better, but messing around is worth it), so that it can dry fast. Once it is tacky, you then do something like you did here to fill in the gaps in the brush strokes and make it perfect, but hopefully needing to worry less about the edges, they can be done entirely by brush later if needs be. Alternatively, just cap the bottom hole with packing tape, make a hole at the center to pour the mix in, do how you did, then when you flip it upside down, put a cup under said hole to collect the extra goop. After dry, cut the tape off rather than just peeling it off to avoid tearing out your freshly applied coating.
Thank you for this video! We converted an old kerosene hurricane lantern into a lamp with a flame bulb, but the flame bulb was a little too obvious and large. This method was the perfect solution! I'm extremely impressed with the results so far, and it's not even dry yet. So simple, and I already had all the supplies in my house.