VW/Audi Common Issue | P0011 Camshaft Adjuster Magnet
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- eManual Repair Manuals for Any Vehicle - shrsl.com/43l4o
Very common issue on the VW/Audi 2.0T engines. The Camshaft Adjuster Magnet often becomes gunned up and stops moving as freely. This controls the Oil Control Valve and variable timing so it can cause all kinds of Misfire codes and other issues.
Most common Cause of this; going 10k miles until you change your oil. Change your oil sooner to help avoid this issue.
Sometimes you can get away with just cleaning it, but it's best to replace the parts and do an engine flush.
This resolves the issue most of the time.
eManual Repair Manuals for Any Vehicle - shrsl.com/43l4o
eManual Repair Manuals for Any Vehicle - shrsl.com/43l4o
@Warzone_-X do you have any error codes?
@@Mechani_Colewhy is there oil on my connector for the camshaft adjuster 😭
Should I just replace the connector or both? Or should I say fuck it and replace the whole cam shaft and get cammed 😂
@marosen9260 the Camshaft Adjuster plug can leak into the harness.
@@Mechani_Colehow do I go about getting that fixed? Idk if that’s normal, but my car also pops randomly from the exhaust when idle and I’m having engine hesitation problems😢 no codes btw
Dealership tried to charge me $1000 for this exact issue. Said the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump control module needed to be replaced.
Bought brake cleaner for $5 and cleaned out that cam magnet.
Problem completely fixed. Ordered a new cam magnet for a more permanent solution but the incompetence from the dealer was astonishing.
Sounds about right. Dealerships are awful, the amount of poor work I find on cars only maintained at the dealer would shock you
Incompetence? Sounds like they wanted money.
They were just crooks, like ALL OF THEM...
I so hope its just my camshaft position sensor but thank you for bringing this problem to light. Itll save me a lifetime full of frustration owning an Audi.
You have saved me so much money, I tried everything! My 20 audi q5 was stalling , rough idle etc and 2 engine codes . Pretty much gave up till I just watched your video ! Literally fixed in 5 min!! I took it off and sprayed brake cleaner in it and reinstalled it . Like new !!!Thank you so much
My favorite kind of comment🫡
So when I bought me VW. It started misfiring on on cold start but then would be good. But it was a very rough idle. I was told by many mechanics to replace this part and that part and may be that part. I’m very mechanically inclined myself. I finally got to this camshaft magnet. And it was like the last sensor type part that I had t replaced yet. I took it off and noticed it wasn’t moving back it forth well. So I cleaned it out with brake clean and it would fix it for a little while but then would get bad. So to make a long story short, it was this camshaft magnet that needed to replace all along. And now 250k more miles later. I’ve never had another problem like that. Other than having to do intake carbon cleanings to keep from getting misfires
After you changed the magnet, the problem fixed imediatly? Or you need to make some km
Thank you for this video, I have a 2015 Audi A3 2.0T Quattro and my car starts but then shakes aggressively and stalls causing the RPM to go to 0 and my engine shuts off. I had got many diagnostic from audi. One Audi dealership said it was my timing chain another one said it’s my camshafts being damaged and my timing is still okay then I got these codes and searched it up P0017, P0011, & P0014. These are more so camshaft and crankshaft position sensor at fault and the solenoid needing to be changed when checking the codes on my own. Hopefully once all these are changed it solves my problem
Did it work for you man?
@juiceman dre
Just ordered the magnet and the oil control valve for my 2014 Jetta 1.8 TSI. It started developing a horrible knock right by the area in the last month whenever the engine is idling and is warmed up. No CELs but when I unplug the electrical connector to the magnet the noise goes away immediately. Fingers crossed it’s not the VVT gears inside and this does it. Now I’m wondering if I should have gotten the corresponding large o ring since I’m not sure the magnet will come with it…
Hey! Did the magnet fix the issue for you???
???
How it ends please?
New camshaft
The magnet and oil screen inside of it were all that was needed in mine.
I just found out in my 2016 Golf R that my idle is really bad, i feel little shaking and can definitely hear near exhaust that its not stable. Also found out little oil leakage from Camshaft magnet. I just ordered FEBI Camshaft Magnet and i wish it will solve my problems :) I only ordered magnet for now but i guess its the issue because also OBD11 show me Camshaft faults! :)
Keep us updated if it fixes it!
@@Mechani_Cole definitely gonna update You right after changing it!!
I think im having the same problem on my GOLF 7 GTI Performance CHHA
14869 - Bank 1: Camshaft B (Exhaust)
P0014 00 [032] - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Readiness: 0000 0001
@@Mechani_Cole Soooo, im right after changing magnet and it works! No more shaking feel inside the car and rpm lowered little bit! I have to say it's fixed! Thanks a lot man :D U saved me a lot of nerves
My favorite kind of comments, thanks for the update!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
We keep plenty of the cam magnets and spool valves in stock at my VW dealership parts department. They’re a common failure point on the TSI platform. Which ever VW dealership told you that that car didn’t have it is BSing if they’re going based off the VIN of the car
That's what I thought. I called the local dealer here. Gave them the Vin and was told it doesn't exist by the idiot on the phone lol
Will the scheduled annual oil change avoid this, or should it be semi-annual? At about what mileage does this commonly occur? 2024 model year, here.
Annual oil change? Maybe if you drive less than 5,000 miles a year.
Don't listen to the dealership advice. Change your oil every 5k miles and your engine will last a long time.
2015 s3 67k miles on it just had to replace this. i’ll be honest when i first saw that code i thought it was gonna be an expensive fix. pleasantly surprised
It was shaking a little bit? O what was the problem?
@oscarcampos1275 yeah
How much was it to fix?
I charged this customer $120
Just did this exact same job. Cleaned out the valve with spray cleaner and put it back in. The magnetic control was the entire problem (clogged) with old / burned oil 😮
Yessir! Good work🫡
@@Mechani_Cole You wouldn't believe it. VW, the dealer, said... get this. It was a bad cam and it was a $4,000 fix. Did it all for under $500. 🤯
Did it give cylinder misfire ?
Thanks
@harveys.2821 yes.
Any suggestions on an Audi a4 b8.5 cylinder 1 misfire run solid only at idle,
Replaced many parts but this..
Hey bud. Do you have to lock the timing in before undoing and removing the valve?
Thanks
Dan
I didn't have to. Just broke it free with the tool
Do you recommend changing the control valves at same time as the magnets? I am planning to replace my magnets next month, car on 63k. Thanks 👍
At that mileage just clean them. And stop doing 10k oil changes if you are
@Mechani_Cole thanks, 3k oil changes since I took ownership at 54k... all other fluids replaced during last 5k... next job get thrust washers replaced.... 🤦♂️😂
I have gone to dealer they said crankshaft most likely broken, loud noise coming out of the bank 1 or adjuster/actuator. I have been reading and feel now I know about this car more than many but I have not wanted to do it myself. The dealer says 5000 but may they know jetta tsi will fail somewhere. But I have invested a lot already and I do not want to spend more. I found it from auction for 6000 after totaled car prius 2012. This jetta is 1.8l turbo SE sport. Then changed the intake manifold for 1000 and then the sparkplugs and coild due to misfiring. All four. Then I have misfire and red oil jug light on after getting oil changed at walmart. The original mileage was 107 now it is 127 after a year. I had always the oil light yellow light on even after changing oil and this car got me into fight with almost every oil change I had. The light for oil comes up, yellow. That was on and on for about a year, some would say it is burning oil as there was no leakage, so advised me to sell it or change engine. I found no sign of burning, no soot whatever, but on two occasions found more oil which may have damaged the sensors? I have now several sensor errors mainly the cam shaft position errors. P0341, at first. Now all sorts of p starting with 030000 and engine misfire codes: 030100-4, random multiple cylinder misfire, p152800, p052400, engine oil low pressure, p055F00, Engine oil pressure out of range, and U041600 from NAPA scanner.
For your information is i have already changed the oil pressure sensor and reduced oil pressure sensor(blue, brown), first with after market then my mechanic failed to remove the red oil light on dashboard which beeps sometimes at highspeed mostly, so he advised to check with dealers. They diagnosed it for 179 and found more oil(1 quart more) and suggested oil pressures sensor from after markets are the reason. I did buy these parts from Clarksville, TN Wyanjohnson center but that still did not fix it. It is after this that loud noise came for the first time. May be the sensors were not fitted properly. One mechanic told me the wires for the connectors of oil pressure may not be fitted correctly they were not supposed to move around. So now I am unable to move. NAPA guy recommended totally new engine. I am afraid this will get me to the same problem especially Volkswagen German cars in general have notorious engine failures even at low mileage. I will end up suffering. I do not want to sell it at discounted price. I suspect it could be a simple issue. But nobody seems to give me a reasonable way out. My question is is more oil going to send the actuator to cause loud noise? Merecdes forums say it can. Also when I remove the connector cable to the camshaft actuator then the engine does not die and runs smooth although the gas mileages was not good and at high speed sometimes the RPM stalls at 2 and EPC light comes on. Mostly I drove it disconnected it works fine. I believe the cable is sending position sensor to ECU. So how does disconnecting it helps? If that is the case the camshaft is good, and North Nashville, TN Volkswagen and Mitsibushi center misdiagnosed it. The guy who worked with me told me that their techs are 99% right to be 100% the engine must be torn down. Well, if camshaft is broken or damaged you will have start issue, I do not have that except when at red light or slow traffic, then it dies. So camshaft is not an issue. So what is the noise is coming? One other mechanic said bad oil can cause it and Walmart oil is not good. Castrol oil he already warned me 5W30 is the choice. I met with the mechanics from firestone and walmart they both said it does not matter which brand as long as they are the same number. I believe so because I think oil strength may cause heat issue not sound issues. If I can find the reason for loud noise near the actuator or on actuator then I have found the major issue.
How tight should VVT be in? Is there any specific nm that it should be tightened? When i tighten it a little, the magnet is getting stuck. On 1.5rmp, engine sounds like there is not enoguh air for it. Past 2.5rpm it works fine and on idle it runs fine. But on 1.5 rpm, engine shakes and misfires. Misfire sometimes on cylinder 1 sometimes on 3. I got my VVT broken when tried to remove it to replace timing chain. Had to order new VVT from amazon and i think it is low quality. I did timing job pretty good and checked everything multiple times. So how tight should VVT be?
Question please. Does the magnet have a seal (O ring) inside that will need replacing? The part came without one and don't want to use the old one if there is. Thanks
Just had my magnet and valve replaced by the dealer, cost me $786. Hope my issues are all fixed now, was having misfires on 1, 3, and 4 with a camshaft position sensor fault code.
Holy chet that's an insane amount to charge!
@@Mechani_Cole for the cost of the parts I agree but this one was out of the scope of my diagnostic capabilities. The car is my wife’s daily driver and we really needed it back as quickly as possible.
I am having same issues for my Vw Passat changed coils and plugs still problem exists
@ShivaYallanti important to diagnose before replacing parts for sure
Hey great short video. I have a 2009 A4 3.2 V6. Would this apply to that car? Im getting codes p0016 and p0018
No, it's a different engine with different sensors
Hey, how can you diagnose these adjusters, and do you really need the tool to remove the entire housing or just the part itself?
Yes. You need to remove it and see if it has gunk stuck inside and that it moves freely. Visual inspection is the best way. The tool is cheap and the job is quick. Just remember it is REVERSE threaded for the cam adjuster magnet
Thanks for this, ive inspected mine before but im now getting the occasional p011 code, lemme clean this part and see if that helps
@skelemusic hope it clears it up!
Well has it cleared the problem? Update please?
My vw golf 7 gti in the cold start I feel some tremors and hiccups then in progress all normal but if I put it in D or N stopped I feel again will it be from the magnet covers or the valve?
Possible yes.
@@Mechani_Cole I've also been told about the charred valves, I'm totally lost
Again me, I was watching some videos and in those videos i found that there are 2 gaskets.. one between the chain cover and camshaft and one inside the camshaft(o ring)
Which one should i now change, i am a little confused.. do i have to take the chain cover off?
😀
If the oil leak is coming from the timing cover, then replace the whole cover gasket with a new one. If it's leaking from the O ring, just replace the O-ring
The time cover is fine, there is a gasket(302.690 - elring)
that sits between the cam and magnet and that one is i believe pinched down withe the cover case😀 and the O ring sits inside the camshaft (538.010-elring)
Vw 2.0tsi acceleration issues, misfire cylinder 3, p0027, p0029... Oil changed every 35000km (previous owner messed it totally I know) I hope this would solve my problems 😢
Did it
My '15 VW has a 1.6l TSI and suddenly I got an aggressive jerkiness to it. I seen I had misfire code for each cylinder (made sense) and a multi-misfire code alongside this P0011 and P052A code. Do you think this would fix what I'm dealing with or is there something else I should try or check in correlation to the P0011 and P052A codes?
I would start here. It's the cheapest and easiest think to try before getting a further diagnosis is problem still persists.
Hi mate we have this engine in shop low oil pressure. Apparently the engine was rebuilt after going bad . It drops to 1 bar and puts light on . We have replaced oil control valves and strainer pick up any help would be great its a 2016 2.0 petrol
Is the oil pump good? Did the last tech leave something inside that is blocking the oil passage
Aye what tool did you use to get the valve out ?? I don't have the VW spec tool
@kywildcats941 you need the tool. No way around it. Link in description 🫡
is there a way too tell if it’s they or the timing? i’m looking too buy a car with this code but i don’t wanna be screwed over if the timing is off
Will have a look again at my skoda octavia vrs 2.0 tsi could this magnet cause the engine to sound like a diesel 🙄🙄 just had my timing chain replaced and car sounds no different was quiet as a mouse before it started to rattle
What’s the torque specks on the N205 valve ??
You mentioned a special tool for changing the valve. Could you elaborate?
It's a reverse threaded valve that requires a special tool to remove. Tool is listed in the description. Can't really remove it without it.
Did you have a error code stating that “camshaft adjustment valve - implausible data”?
Not for this one exactly. But that code can be the cause of this similar issue as well
Hi!
Would you be so kind and tell me what to do if i have an oil leak from that magnet? Its leaking from one of the screws that are holding the cam magnet!
Hi👋🏼, that just means the gasket/o-ring is leaking. You can just replace that if the car is running good. It's very easy to replace even with little knowledge on cars. It's best to replace the whole magnet since you are already there. But cheapest to just change the gasket. Just the 1 plug and 3 torx screws holding it in.
@@Mechani_Cole thank u so much for the answer!! So the O ring is rigtht behind the magnet? Between the magnet and cam i mean..
And can I use the same screws or should I change them also.. because some said that I cannot use the same ones😂
You can use the same screws here. Whoever said that is clueless. Yes. Sits right behind there. Can order one online or grab one from the dealer I'm sure
@@Mechani_Cole thank you very much!!!
Hey man dealership trying to charge me 900 for just the cam magnet replaced planning on doing it myself, do they need and computer resetting when replaced?
That's a lot of $ for this job!
Sometimes you need a scanner to reset it after. But if you don't have one, just replace the magnets and then drive it to Aurozone or Oriellys and use their scanner for free
Hi, had a bearing Knock on my audi, cut the crank, replaced pistons, rings, bearings, schemed the head replaced valves on cylinder 3 and i still keep getting misfire on cylinder 3, the compression in the cylinder is quite low but its low on cylinder 2 and 4 as well, but only getting the misfire on cylinder 3 on the VCDS and high values for misfiring on cylinder 3, could the VVT cause this as its strange that only cylinder 3 is misfiring so much, also the misfire is mostly at low rpms, some help would be appreciated.
Does this make a knocking noise when going bad? My mk6 gti is louder than normal and everyone saysnit sounds fine but my ears know my own car and it sounds like a slight knock almost from that area
Yes. Most common noise from this failure
@Mechani_Cole awesome thank you for the quick reply I'm gonna check this out next before timing 🙏
Where is that located? I have exactly the code seen here. Will this also affect the turbo solenoid?
On the left side of the engine up top
Can you provide a link for a magnet on a 2017 jetta GLI
I need a Audi Mecanic in the Orlando area
Hello, I have a 2017 golf 7.5 R and I have a knocking noise when car is up to temperature while idlling. The noise is comming from the location of adjuster magnets. I also can see a little bit of oil on the cover where the oil cap is. Could it be this issue or something else. Pls help!!
Could be, hard to say without looking at it. But not very expensive to do and cross off the list
@@Mechani_Cole What else could it be if not the magnets? Really appreciate your help!
@@Mechani_Cole ruclips.net/user/shorts2wXxYdD-cUk?feature=share Here is the video of the sound.
I’m having the same issue, I changed the magnet but there was oil behind that component, I’ve ordered the control oil valve, I hear there’s a special tool to remove it? Can you help
Yessir! Here is the tool you need - amzn.to/49jRbc4
Keep in mind it's reverse threaded. So righty loosey🤙🏼
Okay thanks I ordered something similar from Amazon with 3 sockets I’m not sure if it will fit lol. This should rectify the issue I’m having surely?
There is no such promise in the world of mechanics. Especially not being able to diagnose it individually. But it's the best shot🤙🏼
Meanwhile Can I Drive with the actuator magnet disconnected? I’m waiting for the tools to do it
Good question, but no. I wouldn't recommend that
@@Mechani_Cole thanks man i will Connect the magnet again
I change those all the time , 5 minute diag, 10 minute repair.
Gravy work all day🫡
My car goes into EPC mode whenever i park on a hill or curb, said purge valve but i changed it says also O2 sensor…
I have a 2015 Audi A3 Quattro 2.0. It starts fine 100% of the time when cold. After warmed up, if I shut the car off and try to restart it I get nothing. It just cranks and sometimes the CEL comes on (not always), but after letting the car cool back down it starts perfectly fine. I have already replaced the HPFP. Could this be the cause?
Interesting. I would definitely take a look at this soleniod. At least take it out and make sure it's operating properly.
Is there a code that the check engine light is putting out? That would be important to know
@@Mechani_Cole I will definitely take a look at it! I can’t remember the code (checked it twice, but it goes out on its own after a few cold cycles). It was low fuel rail pressure (assuming from rough idle and dying) then also cylinder misfires (possibly same)
Also look into fuel pressure regulator. Could be going bad from the sounds of it
Did the car in the video have a fuel pressure sensor malfunction code present also?
@majoritynote no. Just the P0011 code
Will this also give you a knocking noise for a few seconds when restarting your car from warm
It's a possibility for sure. Try a simple oil flush and oil change and see if it helps the issue. If not, have the timing chain inspected, or the magnet cleaned
Just had the timing chains all done and the tensioner with new oil and filter change .
I would remove and inspect the magnet, maybe clean it. Also check spark plugs if they haven't been replaced. Carbon deposits can also start causing that
@Its MechaniCole will try that , thanks for the info 👍
Hows the chain/tensioner look
Looks good. Low mileage too
I have a code P0288 and P0010 but after I cleared it the P0010 went away and never came back however the P0288 did come back which is camshaft A (intake) Position actuator. Could this be a possible cause?
Yes, it's likely. Can always remove it and inspect it. Remember the valve is reverse threaded as well
@@Mechani_Cole okay thank u so much. I know how to tell if the magnet was bad but how would I tell if the valve was bad?
If it doesn't move freely. You can push it in and out.
Can this cause slight rattle on startup and some
Stud seeing here and there
Yeah it can
@@Mechani_Cole So the issue I’m having in the only issue on startup I’ll get a rattle for 2 seconds
@lilsavagegod pretty common with this, stretched timing chain or tensioners going bad soon
@@Mechani_Cole if it’s not the oil control valve and cam phaser. I hope it’s just the tensioner.
Thanks for the video… you can actually clean the old one and make it move just like a brand new one. The magnet can only be bad if you plug it in and it won’t magnetize. If it’s hard to move just clean it.
Hey guys. What’s the name of the “special tool”?
Camshaft Crankshaft Engine Timing Tool -
amzn.to/3HhOHh8
Anyone Can tell the party Number of the tool kits in this video or a link to buy It? Please i Need too much
Everything is included in the description. Here is a link for the tool - amzn.to/3TsLG3B
What codes did you have?
P0011
Hi could, a possible code that comes up be a timing chain code ?
Possible yes
@@Mechani_Cole much appreciated
I cannot bust this thing out. I know it's reverse threaded so I'm not going the wrong way lmao, but it just will not budge. Feels like I'm turning the engine more than it. Haven't seen a single video where people have any issues. Any ideas or advice?
Haven't had one get stuck. But try an impact if possible. If not, try hitting the socket wrench with a hammer. Creating an impact shock helps break them free. Just be sure you are going clockwise
Just changed my upper timing cover gasket, and now I'm hearing a knocking noise from under the cover at idle. Is this the symptom of a bad ajuster magnet? The ajuster magnet had some movement when I shook it and sounded like there's oil inside. I'm desperate man, please help😭. Gen3 1.8 tsi.
Normal for it to move a little and have oil inside. Interesting on the knocking noise. Did you drop anything in there on accident? Or not tighten something all the way?
@Mechani_Cole . I took the cover off and checked, but I didn't find anything. I changed the valve cover gasket as well. That side is fine though. I made sure not to move the cams or the chains. Also, the noise is only there at operating temperature.
Did you remove the spark plugs at all? Any check engine lights? How is your oil level?
@Mechani_Cole I did remove cylinder 1 Spark plug, it was leaking oil before, hence the Valve cover gasket change. I'll check it later. No dash lights, oil level is good.
Ive seen spark plugs wiggle lose and cause a knocking noise before. Double check that
How’s it going, about to do this repair. What’s the name of that tool, where can I pick one up?
What up! Here is a link for that tool - amzn.to/42GFVTP
@@Mechani_Cole thank you so much! Appreciate the information.
Will report back after servicing, appreciate the dialogue!
Hello, i have an golf 7r and have a metallic rattle when i accelerate lightly do you know What is it ?
No idea without seeing it in person usually. Could be several different things
@@Mechani_Cole i have one Short video on my Channel you can hear the sound please ?
I’m having trouble finding the valve on ecs tuning, can you help out?
For which vehicle? Would need the year, make and model
@@Mechani_Cole 2015 Audi S3
If they don't carry it, try FCP Euro.
Are you talking about this? www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-parts/camshaft-adjuster-magnet-with-connector/06l109259akt~feb/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_qgBhDFARIsABcDjOeaLQzWRaRvZ9HhhlWPg_odhXu6EB4TgZg3IztXc5X7gIAlDbowUoIaAuKaEALw_wcB
@@Mechani_Cole no I’m talking about the oil control valve, that has reverse threads
Should be the same as the A3. Both have 2.0 engines. Have you already tried to remove yours and clean it? They don't go bad often and you can inspect it easily. I only cleaned the one in the video. Still working great till this day
I could use some advice. Took my 04 GTI VR6 (202k miles) in to Zimbrick for a diagnostic, the car lost power on the highway and stalled. After a few tries it restarted, lights were still on as well as the dash. It also has a hot start issue, after running to the store or another small trip the car needs about 30+ mins to cool down in order to restart. Zimbrick said one of three codes led to the timing solenoids failing and quoted me 15k in repairs! I've never heard of a quote like this 😳 anybody got opinions? I expected some simple sensors and possibly a quote of up to 5k but 15k is insane.
@dawsondude23 first off both those prices are insane. You can put a fully built VR6 in there for that cost. Even 5k is wayyy to much money.
Get a 2nd opinion. Maybe find a local mobile mechanic that is good with these cars. If Zimbrick is giving you quotes like that it's clear that they think they can take advantage of you and you don't know enough to stop them. Get a 2nd opinion. Scan for codes, get a proper diagnosis from a real VW person and I bets its no where close to that cost
@Mechani_Cole thanks so much for the quick reply, and I agree that I would never pay anywhere near those prices, it's just what I expected from the dealer. Looking into my issues, I'm seeing no more than $600 in parts and labor. I live near a Euro Audi and VW shop down the road, definitely planned on getting a second opinion.
@DawsonDude23 that's a price I can agree on. Local independent shops with good reviews are much better than the dealership
Hey there, is this magnet on a 2012 A3 TDI? Bc I just got my car from the dealer and a dirty one was on my backseat
Thanks in advance
Close, pretty much the same. Hopefully they didn't put a dirty oil filled part on your seats...
@@Mechani_Cole they did, I have a photo to prove it. Where is this part located on a 2012 A3 TDI?
@aben112358 should be the same location as in the video
@@Mechani_Cole thanks man. I'll look manana
@@Mechani_Cole wait, like where the yellow rag is?
Vvt valve
What year is your ve
This one is a 2019 if I remember right
My guy actually charged me 700 in total is that fine??? I have a 2012 GTI
$700 seems insane!
This job takes less than an hour even for an average mechanic. Sounds like a rip off to me
@@Mechani_Cole that’s how I got scam now that your saying this he told me he took 2 days to finish the job but I’m a new car guy so I didn’t know much about parts he just charged me what he wanted
the magnet has oil in it it has to move a little bit slower
Not sure what you mean here🤔
@@Mechani_Coleofc the brand new one is going to move freely, but ass son as you install it in the car and run the car the magnet is going to have oil in it. There for if you take it out again it will not move soo good becouse it has OIL IN IT
Good old V.A.G. vehicles. Always a special tool 🤦♀️
Sometimes you need a special tool just to use the special tool needed even. So much fun🫡
@@Mechani_Cole and I still can't quit them..
I just did for the first time in 6 or 7 years and got an 09 Legacy Gt. We will see how long it lasts though, just went and looked at an A6 today but it was too beat up
@@Mechani_Cole I'm on my 4th mk4 vw. This one's a golf. 🤷♀️🤣 got her for pennies July 2020 and she's my pandemic project. Just got the last light of the German Christmas tree off. Now I'm hunting original bits. Because I'm a crazy person.
Nice! Have you heard of or used car-part.com? Good site for some junkyard searches.
Just replaced the magnet and was back to normal after about 10 minutes and then started messing up again, any ideas ???
Did you change and flush the oil as well? Could also be a timing issue
Just replaced mine. Shop said it was cracked 💀.
"Cracked" is crazy, I haven't seen a cracked one yet
Where did you buy the part ? Do you have a part number
Check the description, I think I listed it there
@@Mechani_Cole is it the same part for the 1.8 Jetta bro ?
What year?
This is way I can't stand new vehicles I hate stupid sensors
It's a love hate relationship for sure. They do provide performance and information we wouldn't have otherwise. This also did remedy the issue pretty quickly. But yes, sometimes they can really be a hassle
dude i literally bought the SAME kit and can not remove the head for the life of me.
Are you turning it the correct way? It is reverse threaded.
If you're going the right way, then use a bigger ratchet or get more leverage should help.
it literally doesn’t fit on, the bottom of the valve is poking ever so slightly on. it fits in the two holes and the top part hugs over it but the bottom part doesn’t. i even tried screwdriver and a hammer but all i’m doing is denting the metal. can’t take it out for the life of me.
That's lame! So the valve itself is definitely bad. But now it's making it so it can't be removed easily?
If the tool doesn't work. I'd use an air hammer, but that's a whole other story.
P0011
P0011
Brake caliper piston tool can be used. And it is definitely not a common problem.
Misinformation 👆🏼
Don't try that people.
Also I've fixed over a dozen of these issues. Just this year. All the same
Hey, I have the same code and issue here. May I know if it’s normal for the oil control valve to be stuck and not be able to be actuated by hand? I’m also unable to remove the control valve despite turning clockwise. It seems to be stuck stuck. I’m also using a small ratchet so not sure if that’s the issue.
Thank you!
It needs to move freely by hand. Use a longer ratchet for more leverage. It's not going to break, but it's tightened by the rotation of the engine so it may be a little tight