Just a quick note and update - spent the last week and successfully completed my Tiguans 2010 timing chain , guides, and updated tensioner. Tensioner was at seven ( 7 ) notches extended - wow 😮. The engine is now so quiet now - specially at initial crank. The new tensioner is at two ( 2 ) notches. Thank you guys so much for your help - please keep us home mechanics in mind - limited tools etc
Over the last few years I’ve watched many videos on tensioner and chain replacement - and this is the best video for me in so many ways. Thank you - just happen to be do this task over this coming weekend on my 2010 Tiguan - cheers
@@GremcoGarage Hi - now retired - but I help myself and family on the following vehicles: 2011 F150 FX4 ( 5.0 ), 2010 Tiguan, 2010 Mazda 3 ( 2.5 non turbo ) 2016 Elantra GT, 2012 Roque, 2021 F150 ( 2.7 ) - my background is electrical / instrumentation - not a mechanic but always up for a challenge. Future work is on the Roque - Christmas tree lights on the dash - ABS, Traction Control, and Air Bag ; looked at the codes thrown - I think - clockspring - everything resets nicely - but drive off and rotate the steering wheel by 20 degrees - bingo - all lights back.. Then the Elantra transmission fluid change. The usual tire rotation for winter along with oil changes - I preach 3000 Km - noticed the smell of raw gas especially the turbo vehicles if pushed to 5 - 6000 Kim’s. I would like to see more on suspension linkages and bushings - I see my family avoiding replacing these parts on the basis - they look okay from here - LOL 😂 Cheers
This is by no means an easy job. Especially in a 100 degree garage, especially on an Audi with the engine mounted the other way. I spent 3 days of blood, sweat, and tears but managed in the end, for only $400 in parts and tools. Great vid.
I’ve just replaced my tensioner with the updated version and now I’m currently working on getting the cam gears in time on my 2012 GTI, this video is a great little reminder of some of the other steps involved
Mint video. One thing that's usually called for is to let the crank seal in the new timing cover bond with the shaft on the crank pulley for 4 hours before the first crank to avoid future leaks, same as that lower timing cover sealant (24 hours at least for full seal to the block)
Just a note I pulled from Identifix, that exhaust side bolt with the washer on the Camshaft Bridge, there's apparently two types with the VW/Audi 2.0 TSI's, depending on which one you have, there's a different torque spec: M6 bolt: > 8 Nm +90° M8 Bolt: > 20 Nm +90°
I usually remove the pulley and turbo muffler . I have never loosened that 5mm. Im gonna have to try it 👍 also just so u kno if you find the torn screen , there is a tech tip to also replace the intake camshaft. More tenths for you
Doing this job right now, kinda stuck with getting the chain off all the way. I got it off the exhaust camshaft, but it's caught up on the intake side. Any tips? Yours seemed to just jump right out at you
Where did you buy that torque wrench? I really like the design, 3-step LED function and beep signal. Please direct me to an url that has world wide shipping. I'm from Norway btw 😉 PS. The one you link in the video description is not the same.
@@GremcoGarage 6:59 when you’re talking about the updated part with a different style lock due to the tensioner cam breaking often. I work in a Subaru shop & have never seen that issue on this manufacturer. Is that tensioner issue why the tsi engines blow? Tension gets slacked, jumps timing & busts a valve?
Currently in the process of chaining timing chains/guides and tensioner. I ran into a weird problem (for me at least). I put the vehicle at TDC (with verified cylinder 1 in the up stroke and 4 o’clock triangle and slit on crank pulley). Unfortunately, my exhaust cam and intake came will not line up with the 65mm and 125mm overall as specified by Volkswagen. Both my cams are at 1 o’clock roughly. I have rotated the crank pulley multiple times to see if maybe I could finally line the cams up. No luck. Vehicle has a p0016 and has the old tensioner prone to failing, which it has due to how easy it is to push in. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!
Have you already put the new chain on ? If not the car has already jumped a tooth as verified by the p0016 . At this point I would just disassemble the chain and use the copper links on the new chain to set the timing marks correctly
@@GremcoGarage I am in the process of taking off old chains and tensioners but before that. My understanding was that the vehicle has to be at TDC and the cams have to be at the 11oclock exhaust side and 1 o’clock intake side. My cams will not line up like that. Does this mean I have to take off valve cover and manually adjust the cams to be at that position?
ARGH HELP @gremcogarage Great tips dude. , My gause is missing in the cam bridge . I can't see it anywhere any ideas on where to look? could it have made its way to the sump? otherwise I ll just need to reassemble and hope for the best argh help.
Thanks for the comment and the question. 40nm + 2 90s is your answer. What cars are you working on? Are you a full-time mechanics and what other cars would you like to see on the channel?
you didn't shown anything helpful. didn't show how to remove the main tensioner just took the bolts off because you know it locks up with the guide also didn't show how to remove the bracket that goes across the cames where the sensor connects. tow thumbs down
Just a quick note and update - spent the last week and successfully completed my Tiguans 2010 timing chain , guides, and updated tensioner. Tensioner was at seven ( 7 ) notches extended - wow 😮. The engine is now so quiet now - specially at initial crank. The new tensioner is at two ( 2 ) notches.
Thank you guys so much for your help - please keep us home mechanics in mind - limited tools etc
Appreciate all your feedback will definitely keep that in mind
Wow you smoked that timing chain install. Super quick!
Thanks for the comment John. What car are you working on and what other cars would you like to see on the Channel
Just keep the videos coming. Any timing work, on German, Toyotas vehicles 🚗 🛻 are a plus..
Over the last few years I’ve watched many videos on tensioner and chain replacement - and this is the best video for me in so many ways. Thank you - just happen to be do this task over this coming weekend on my 2010 Tiguan - cheers
What cars are you working on? what cars would you like to see in the channel?
@@GremcoGarage Hi - now retired - but I help myself and family on the following vehicles: 2011 F150 FX4 ( 5.0 ), 2010 Tiguan, 2010 Mazda 3 ( 2.5 non turbo ) 2016 Elantra GT, 2012 Roque, 2021 F150 ( 2.7 ) - my background is electrical / instrumentation - not a mechanic but always up for a challenge.
Future work is on the Roque - Christmas tree lights on the dash - ABS, Traction Control, and Air Bag ; looked at the codes thrown - I think - clockspring - everything resets nicely - but drive off and rotate the steering wheel by 20 degrees - bingo - all lights back.. Then the Elantra transmission fluid change.
The usual tire rotation for winter along with oil changes - I preach 3000 Km - noticed the smell of raw gas especially the turbo vehicles if pushed to 5 - 6000 Kim’s.
I would like to see more on suspension linkages and bushings - I see my family avoiding replacing these parts on the basis - they look okay from here - LOL 😂
Cheers
This is by no means an easy job. Especially in a 100 degree garage, especially on an Audi with the engine mounted the other way. I spent 3 days of blood, sweat, and tears but managed in the end, for only $400 in parts and tools. Great vid.
LOL did it on my 2004 RS6 had to take out the engine lucky you
I’ve just replaced my tensioner with the updated version and now I’m currently working on getting the cam gears in time on my 2012 GTI, this video is a great little reminder of some of the other steps involved
Mint video. One thing that's usually called for is to let the crank seal in the new timing cover bond with the shaft on the crank pulley for 4 hours before the first crank to avoid future leaks, same as that lower timing cover sealant (24 hours at least for full seal to the block)
This is the guy I need working on my truck
What kind of truck and where are you from? And what’s wrong with it?
Is this a nascar pit stop chain replacement 😂 so fast it hurts my brain to watch 🤪
glad i remembered that these are the same as mk6 gti's timing wise, very helpful video!
Appreciate the comment glad I could help you out what car are you working on and what cars would you like to see on the channel
Just a note I pulled from Identifix, that exhaust side bolt with the washer on the Camshaft Bridge, there's apparently two types with the VW/Audi 2.0 TSI's, depending on which one you have, there's a different torque spec:
M6 bolt:
> 8 Nm +90°
M8 Bolt:
> 20 Nm +90°
I usually remove the pulley and turbo muffler . I have never loosened that 5mm. Im gonna have to try it 👍 also just so u kno if you find the torn screen , there is a tech tip to also replace the intake camshaft. More tenths for you
Thanks for watching the video. What other videos have you watched?
@@GremcoGarage this is the only one. I just discovered your Channel was in my recommended, I’ll be watching more soon
Thanks a bunch feel free to share the channel if it’ll help anyone else out
What was the spring in the cam bridge. I just did this job and didn't notice it. Should i pull it and check?
@GremcoGarage Where are you located in New York???
Doing this job right now, kinda stuck with getting the chain off all the way. I got it off the exhaust camshaft, but it's caught up on the intake side. Any tips? Yours seemed to just jump right out at you
Where did you buy that torque wrench? I really like the design, 3-step LED function and beep signal. Please direct me to an url that has world wide shipping. I'm from Norway btw 😉
PS. The one you link in the video description is not the same.
Snapon sells them I don’t believe you can buy them directly online you have to buy it off a truck it comes to the garages they might be US-based sure
Complete timing of Tiguan
Whats that sound, just when you started it after replacing
Some peoples put the new chaine in oil before instal it .i think it's the chaine before being it's get lubricated.
Interesting fail point on the chain tensioner locks
What’s the timestamp on the video? What Volkswagen are you working on and what other cars would you like to see on the channel?
@@GremcoGarage 6:59 when you’re talking about the updated part with a different style lock due to the tensioner cam breaking often. I work in a Subaru shop & have never seen that issue on this manufacturer. Is that tensioner issue why the tsi engines blow? Tension gets slacked, jumps timing & busts a valve?
Hi there, do you need to. Make adaptations with vcds after timing chain changed. Regards
Currently in the process of chaining timing chains/guides and tensioner. I ran into a weird problem (for me at least). I put the vehicle at TDC (with verified cylinder 1 in the up stroke and 4 o’clock triangle and slit on crank pulley). Unfortunately, my exhaust cam and intake came will not line up with the 65mm and 125mm overall as specified by Volkswagen. Both my cams are at 1 o’clock roughly. I have rotated the crank pulley multiple times to see if maybe I could finally line the cams up. No luck. Vehicle has a p0016 and has the old tensioner prone to failing, which it has due to how easy it is to push in.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!
Have you already put the new chain on ? If not the car has already jumped a tooth as verified by the p0016 . At this point I would just disassemble the chain and use the copper links on the new chain to set the timing marks correctly
@@GremcoGarage I am in the process of taking off old chains and tensioners but before that. My understanding was that the vehicle has to be at TDC and the cams have to be at the 11oclock exhaust side and 1 o’clock intake side.
My cams will not line up like that. Does this mean I have to take off valve cover and manually adjust the cams to be at that position?
@ivanvega2821 You can adjust the cams with an 18mm wrench with the valve cover still on .
ARGH HELP @gremcogarage Great tips dude. , My gause is missing in the cam bridge . I can't see it anywhere any ideas on where to look? could it have made its way to the sump? otherwise I ll just need to reassemble and hope for the best argh help.
Where are you located
What is the torque of the head bolts?
Thanks for the comment and the question.
40nm + 2 90s is your answer. What cars are you working on? Are you a full-time mechanics and what other cars would you like to see on the channel?
How much did u charge for this job? How is this still under warranty?
Depending on the van, there’s an extension on the warranty
Where is located your shop?
Why can't I take out the oil change pump the chainsaw oil
What about chainsaw oil?
well done and fast!!
Why not replace the balance shaft chain?
Unnecessary expenditure
Very good video
Thanks for the common. What cars are you working on and what cars would you like to see on the channel? Are you a full-time mechanics?
@@GremcoGarage yes I’m a mechanic work for Skoda in the UK keep up the great work.
@@johnp6636 what’s your favorite car to work on?
@@GremcoGarage anything VAG group. What about you?
👍👍👍
Whats the tool at 4:22 called?
DeTensioning tool
Part number is T40243
@@GremcoGarage Thank you! 😎
How much a job like this cost?
$18-$2400 depending on what parts and what grade
Sénégal
U like a doctor
Thanks for the comment what else would you like to see on the channel and what car are you working on?
Audio a 4 engine
Fast
you didn't shown anything helpful. didn't show how to remove the main tensioner just took the bolts off because you know it locks up with the guide also didn't show how to remove the bracket that goes across the cames where the sensor connects. tow thumbs down
Thanks for the input. I will look into this.