Side gates - installing the post/frame
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- Опубликовано: 1 апр 2019
- Installing some gates between a garage & the side of a house. the gate post are tanalised timber but the gates will be made from Pine pse treated with clear preservative & painted later by the owners, the gates are to be made as cheap as poss so the stile & rails are going to be put together using floating tenons made with the XL Domino, glued together with PU glue, Tee hinges and a ring latch handle.
I don't make these videos to make money, I make them to share the tips I've learnt over 36yrs as a joiner, but filming, editing, exporting, reviewing & uploading does take a lot of time so if you have gained anything from any of videos & would like to help me out & donate pls click the PayPal link below, every little helps & will be much appreciated. Thankyou.
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It made me smile when you were talking about utlility pipes etc. We had our garden landscaped recently. The workers managed to sever the gas main coming in, an electric feed to next doors house and almost through a cable TV feed which shouldn't have been running through our property anyway but nevertheless they made excellent guesses at hitting them all first time. Well done, I said. Oh and they managed to damage my rear driveway gate with their muck grabber. All in all par for the course.
Great video, enjoyed watching it
Just occurred to me why I love your vids so much. You take the viewer on, as though you might do for an apprentice. I hope you’ll continue in this way. Even when I already know what you might be explaining, it’s enjoyable to listen through the thought process. I don’t know anyone else who pulls this off as well as you do. It wouldn’t be easy to achieve when your on site and trying to make a living from the work your exhibiting.
Thanks once again.
😉 Thanks,wha can i say 👍 👍 No it isn't easy trying to get on with work & make these vids
Useful video Gid - thanks for posting. The SDS drill made short work of the holes in the brickwork and they look like hard engineering bricks!
Thanks Andrew, 👍 Yeah the SDS will drill through most things, these bricks are hard some more than others, these ones are the harder ones or the bit i think is on it's way out
I was pleased to see you finish the concrete properly, chamfering down and away from the post. Most so called "proffessional " fencers shove in however much concrete they think will do then top it off with soil, That way they know there will be another job when it rots in 5 years.
Not a criticism each to his own, but I always position the wall batten a couple of inches off the ground to clear surface water, and angle the top to shed rain.
Thanks 👍 10mins in i mention that gap at the bottom but i put the treated end down, it's not much different to the post being in the ground.
Great tips Thanks
You're welcome, Thanks 👍
Nice vids Gid, I really like the use of your "small" Milwaukee drill, I never used to think those things had much power in them (the drill not the brand). I think I'll have to have a re-think and treat myself to one, I'm so used to just using my combi drills the every drilling job Tut tut.
Thanks Gary, 👍
I did like the little Milwaukee drill but. the charger broke & recently there's something wrong with the trigger, it doesn't always give full power, prob needs cleaning inside, I'd buy something else other than Milwaukee when it dies 😕 & the right angle drill i bought at the same time only has one speed which is sometimes too fast & a little awkward for screws, you have to feather the trigger, because it's a right angle drill that's not easy in the tight spaces it gets used in 😕
I have a pitbull in my local area who's been in my garden. I get along with him but scarred because j have a 1 year old. I need to get a side gate ASAP
Hi Gid, regarding the bottom of the post attached to the brickwork the problem is it's below DPC so in theory the brickwork (behind it) will be damp, maybe a bit of DPC stapled to the back of post low down up to the Dpc on the house.. Saying that I'd hate to youtube my jobs as I'd get ripped to bits by the experts & dread to think what the Health & safety would do to me. Love your vids, picking up tips all the time.. keep it up.
Hi, Dpc, yeah n no, someone else mentioned this in a comment so sorry I've copied & pasted, Steve builder, is that your trade like Gid joiner 😁 if so you'll know this - a piece of damp course in this situation would be very hard to install without water getting behind it, the outside wall is classed as the wet wall, the one that gets rained on, it's designed to get wet & it's the cavity that stops the transfer to the inner wall, at the bottom inside the cavity it is prob so full of waste/mortar that the cavity is already breached, further up the wall the tie rods have a twist in the centre that should point down to allow any water to drip off before it reaches the inner wall, I've seen huge lumps of mortar stuck to those ties that's fallen down while the house was built essentially breaching the cavity so what's at the bottom? the chance that this would cause damp to come up from the ground to any effect is tiny.
Did you notice the state of the brick mortar around that grate area 🤣, I wasn't concerned about the wood passing by the Dpc.
Thanks Steve, will do 👍 yeah putting my work on film does leave it open to criticism from the armchair pros
Tidy job gid ps thanks for your reply earlier
No prob, Thanks Mark
Quality!
"Nearly twice as much comes out,what's that all about!" Very true.lol
🤪👍
Thanks.
You're welcome👍
hi gid joiner
great thinking to put the gate frame away from the window
as it is much nicer not looking at the back of the gate and of course a much better job ankered on to the wall as always you think things through and that makes all the difference🙂🙂
Thanks james 👍
Yeah, don't know what they were thinking fixing to the porch, 🙃
Hermetically sealed oooooooooooooooooooooooo😁
🤸♂️😀
Brilliant job Gid, looks great have you ever used damp proof course behind wood your fixing to a wall or is it a waste of time ? great video
Yeah it's a waste of time, the outside wall of a cavity wall is classed as a wet-wall, it's designed to get wet then dry out as the weather changes, the cavity inside stops the transmission of water from this wet-wall to the inside drywall, You get damp inside when the cavity is breached/bridged by debris, Although this timber will slow down the drying of the wall it's such a small area it won't matter unless there is already a breach/bridge in the cavity, Thanks 👍
I use that treated easi edge for my gate and frames but always put ink marks on opposite way so don’t see it doesn’t look to good
Yeah, you're right, I saw it when editing, I( do remember turning it around because it had a bend in it but didn't see the writing while working ,🤓 dunno why, I've a stop batten & the door will cover it but might turn it around, i'll have to do some more drilling but yeah it'll look better,
Can I put the post you attached to the building down to the ground instead? Or it will be too close to the foundation? Thanks!
@10:25 I use clear CT1 to seal the ends
Fair enough but sealing completely can lock in any moisture that will get in, wood will last a long time if it can breath & dry out,
Love watching your videos. Curious about the 'cheap as possible' requirement though. Was it - 'Built well, but on a budget' or literally 'as cheap as you can'? ... what happens if you do it cheap, but it doesn't last? then it makes your workmanship look bad? .. so how do you work with customers like that?
Wforl you work with people like that by giving them what they request but pointing out the pitfalls so they have no complaint in the future. "As cheap as possible" doesnt mean a crap job and not everyone can afford quarter sawn oak for a side gate!
Hi, Everyone wants the best for as little as poss but exactly as gb says, pointing out the pros n cons reg design & budget
I have to build this within budget & still earn enough for myself, sorry i could've been clearer, they wanted just Z shaped, rail & braced gates but wanted them to be strong that they could lock from both sides & have a ring latch handle so i suggested putting stiles down either side of the Z to make more like a framed door/gate. ,
Thanks wforl 👍
Gid are you happy with your dewalt thicknesser I’m looking to buy one next week and don’t know if To buy the dewalt or Axminster thicknesser.
Many thanks mark
Hi, yep i'm happy with it, the rise n fall is a little stiff sometimes but a little WD sorts that out, my fault that tho, the roof leaks a little exactly where it sits & it's a little damp in my shed, it's an earth floor under the sawdust, I can't compare it to the Axminster machine cos I've never played with that but i would buy another of these if i had to n would recommend, apart from the blades sharpening I've had no problems, clean cuts with next to no snipe with the 4 point locking mechanism & easily planes the full 300mm without sounding like it's struggling, sharp blades helps with that.
Just had a look at the Axminster Trade AT330T one n i'm not impressed, £699.96!! 😮 looks a little flimsy, only 1,500W motor & the locking sounds/looks like it only locks the rise handle, I would def buy the Dewalt, it locks on all 4 corners, Dewalt are robust machines & 1800 Watt motor, & it's nearly £200 cheaper. FFX newer version than mine £528
Another good video Gid but those cancer sticks aren't good for you ;-)
Thanks steve 👍
I agree - very talented guy and I learn so much from what you do, but try and stop smoking for your long term health. I know it's none of my business but I used to work on a stroke ward and people are always shocked to arrive there when they least expect it (I guess the same applies on cancer and coronary wards..)
Nice work gid !
Are the gate posts not meant to be a little of the ground?
You can, 10mins in i mention that gap at the bottom but i put the treated end down, it's not much different to the post being in the ground.
What about bridging the damp course on the house, doesn't it need a membrane between the post and house?
I have been a subscriber for quite a while now and enjoy your type of videos with your 'thinking out loud' type of approach.
Keep them coming Gid.
Hi, no a piece of damp course in this situation would be very hard to install without water getting behind it, the outside wall is classed as the wet wall, the one that gets rained on, it's designed to get wet & it's the cavity that stops the transfer to the inner wall, at the bottom inside the cavity it is prob so full of waste/mortar that the cavity is already breached, further up the wall the tie rods have a twist in the centre that should point down to allow any water to drip off before it reaches the inner wall, I've seen huge lumps of mortar stuck to those ties that's fallen down while the house was built essentially breaching the cavity so what's at the bottom? the chance that this would cause damp to come up from the ground to any effect is tiny.
Thanks Keith, I appreciate the sub, 👍 yep I'm always working so I'll film as much as poss 😉
here's a tip... the posters the politicians put on polls its plastic and light i get them and rip them up to the size of your timber and screw to the back..great job those posters are great for all sorts mixing sand and cement on etc
yep, you get what you pay for
Good video but had to turn off, god fed up because there were too many adverts
What clear treatment do you use?
I'll let you know when I'm home, it's in the shed, I'll inc it in the next vid, could be Lumberjack, Everbuild or Timbermate clear treatment, i don't have a particular one i buy
Gid joiner thanks, 👍🏻 what size is your workshop? Im currently struggling with the size of my single garage, i really need (want) a planer thicknesser but dont have the room for it or the extractor and will also have no room for sheet goods if i had one, i could extend the garage but only going to gain 1 metre in width! Is it worth it is what im thinking?
Hi, it's always difficult, if you had a double garage it wouldn't be big enough 🤣
I have a 16' x 9' part where you see the table saw table, that's 11' long, the bench with the mitre saw on is similar length about 700mm deep, i have 5 other extensions, the part where the planers are is 2 extensions, that allows me to put 3m through the planer, there's a bit behind the jointer where the lathe is about 10' x 4' but that's going to get altered & there's the 3'sq bit with the extractor & compressor in, The main assembly/spraying area is roughly 12'sq x 9' high, but... i don't have enough room so I'm going to extend it out back, past the tablesaw & mitre saw bit one day 🤣🤣👍
Everbuild I have at the moment 😉
Gid joiner thats alot then! Shouldnt you just merge it all into one? Haha
have you ever thought of using bench dogs for your joinery work ie table with holes
I did ask a firm i used to work for with a cnc router for a price to do an 8x4 mft table, the price was way too much n as you've seen me spraying in there I'd prob just trash it,
its a shame they are a1 bits of kit@@Gidjoiner
why don't you hang off concrete garage
It's a prefab garage, these things fall down on their own, their made from 2ft wide concrete panels held together with 3-4 bolts down either side & aren't anchored to the floor,
oh I wondered many thanks
@@Gidjoiner