VW A4: 1.9L ALH TDI P0234 Overboost
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- Опубликовано: 23 окт 2024
- Thomas
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You helped me solve this EXACT issue over the phone about 4 years ago. Misadjusted actuator. Mine was because replacement turbo that the PO installed was wrongly adjusted from factory.
I might have focused on the pod rod adjustment rather than the stop screw adjustment.... can't remember. Wish I had a more solid diagnostic background... rather than checking random things that could deal with an issue at hand. Nice of you to still be checking in after all these years!
HOld on. Thomas? You also solve problems over the phone?
$5 gets you my phone number with tech support... to be honest, I think people just want to talk with me! =)
$10 Tech support includes service information in pdf form.
XD lol
You sir, are a TDI gangster. Thanks for your videos.
Far from it... far from it... but thank you for watching!
The setting is 18-20hg when it hits the screw. Using a vacuum pump ofcourse.
Thanks for the info!
Gotta say, that is a damn impressive diagnosis and fix. Well done sir. Thanks!
You are too kind!
It was a big difference between the two videos and looks good after you made the adjustment. 😀👍
Definitely something I will be paying more attention to in the future!
Nice. I had SAAB where the previous owner had done some "tuning" on the wastegate. Found that issue when I changed out the turbo after it had started letting the blue smoke out...
I still haven't floored my Turbo E34... to chicken to see what she can do. LOL
Maybe by end of summer or when I get back from Germany... I'll check if MY wastegate adjustment is correct! =)
I got one not boosting enough. 15psi at 4k rpms is all i can get! Driving me nuts trying to figure it out. It's not throwing any codes. Actuator is free. It's set correctly. Starts at 5 ends at 20. 25hg at the vacuum pump and all new lines. I'm going to try adjusting that screw out tomorrow and try that.
Should bottom out at stud at 17"Hg if I recall correctly. Turn the pod rod adjustment to shorten the actuator rod.
E34 in the background... subscribed!!
Thank you. I have two. A white 525i with turbo and a 535i.
ruclips.net/video/kY-2HRUdaqQ/видео.html
Thanks for the excellent video. And all of the good details
Thank you for watching!
Knocked it out of the park mate another great video lots of good information in there sorted!!!
I guess I should be asking you if it's ok to use your mugshot & audio clip as my new "outro".... is it ok? =)
BOOORING??? I never get bored watching your videos. They are all great share your knowledge tips tricks, and a good sense of humor too.
Thanks!
Nice banner of the mech-a-nic channel. A good idea for getting other channels on your screen too.
Figured I'd have some fun!
Hey thanks for all the cool videos. I own a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0 GLS. I just got another car but i want to keep the Jetta. I was thinking of adding a turbo on the Jetta and later on tuning it. But my question is, do I need a turbo to be able to perform a tune on my ecu? Thank you. And keep up the great work on the videos. You’ve saved me time and money
Aylon Pinzon Tuning a stock ECM requires flashing equipment... I have no experience with that. I would hold off until you get a turbo kit to install and then find a tuner shop that can tune or chip the ECM. Search online for turbo kits for the 2.0l If there aren't any, you'll have to build a custom setup. Depending on your location & local emission laws, it might not be a straight forward process. So check your local laws... otherwise you spend $5000 on something that you can not insure.
As always repair well done. What's things do you normally check when encountering an overboost code?
Year, make, model, engine?
@@EXOVCDS 2000 with a 1998 engine, new beetle alh. generic obd2 scan, p1557 (positive over boost)
changed all vacuum lines, musical chaired n18 n75, put in second hand n75 (no change) troubleshooting, unplugged MAF and drove (worse) so replugged MAF, cleaned turbo vanes (oven cleaner, from exhaust side gases, on way to muf) and worked the lever whilst cleaning... am now looking at boost leaks, so thinking between maf and intake, also from turbo compressed air through inter cooler and back up. missing anything?
great video, i am not playing around with the actuator or its settings (might be a faulty turbo actuator or all my n75 are toast mityvac soon), will see specialist if all else fails but have sneaking suspicion you hit the nail on the head and i keep hitting the hammer on my fingers ;)
be well
Boost leaks do not cause over boost codes. Most likely the actuator rod / vanes are not returning fully to the "off boost" position. Further cleaning of vane movement / verifying correct travel of actuator lever from off to fully activated, should fix the overboost code.
Also make sure that the intake is not carboned up.
@@EXOVCDS much appreciated! codes were rare (p1557), really had to provoke it to get a code but partial limp's often, between the MAF and the turbo was a big problem, a hole i fixed.
The sticking turbo i will be cleaning often from now on, the vacuum hoses were a mess, so a little winter clean up, and that hole (near CCV, hose to intake), fixed this problem.
Changing gears above three thousand and four thousand rpm's, are the new norm
thanks Thomas!
Nice find an explanation!
Thanks Mike!
Hello, thanks for the videos. I recently bought a 01 jetta tdi with a intermitant PO234 overboost situation. It will go into limp mode every once in a while. Turn the car off , the next time you drive it it returns to normal performance with turbo. Hope it's something this simple. Could it also be a vacum issue? I thought also stuck veins or N75 valve? Thank you!
Vacuum is needed to move the Turbo Vane Actuator... no vacuum / low vacuum = low boost. Since you have an overboost issue, I would look at turbo vane movement (not returning fully to the low boost position). With the engine off, compare the position of the turbo vane actuator rod / lever when no vacuum is applied... to when vacuum is applied. Not much change in position = stuck vanes / restricted movement due to carbon build up. If there's a big difference, then movement is ok and you might possibly have an intermittent issue with the N75 (not dumping vacuum quickly enough, causing an overboost).
@@EXOVCDS Got it, thank you!
Excellent job
Funny thing was that I din't notice it initially... first thing I checked was if the vanes / actuator rod were stuck in the down position. Actuator moved nicely... I should have noticed the adjustment stop at that time. Wasn't till I lifted the car a 2nd time that I honed in on the adjustment.
I have a A4 B7 1.9 tdi. The turbo went & the garage deleted the egr, still smoking like a locomotive they then changed the turbo. Now the engine light won’t stay off & the car goes into limp Mode if u stay between 1900-2100 revs. They said they wanted to take the car back to the remapping place. I’d already paid him £1600 & he had the car a month so I just wanted the car back off him. Any advice.
If the exhaust is full with oil... it will take some time for all that oil to "burn off". Check the intercooler for excessive oil / residual oil.
Limp mode due to over boost?
Check turbo actuator movement... the actuator rod (or stop position screw) may need to be adjusted.
Can you ever have too much boost?
Good question!
Hi! What does mean the Charge Pressure Solenoid in this case? Mine goes to 100% when I floor the pedal, and stays in that number until I drop the pedal
Duty cycle of solenoid. More boost, more duty cycle. Less boost, less duty cycle. Duty cycle = on/off time.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for answer me so quicky! last question 🙏, does a tightened wastegate can do more duty cycle?
@@ghitar3 I don't know what you mean by tightened. The ALH doesn't have a wastegate. The turbo has vanes that are moved by the actuator. The actuator rod is made longer or shorter. When it is made shorter, then the turbo will boost sooner. When it is made longer the turbo will boost later or not develop full boost... which could result in more duty cycle.
Doubt you will ever find a spec, like a idle screw adjustment it should never need adjustment, nice find though!!!
Someone just posted a vacuum spec! Will have to keep that one in mind! 18-20"Hg to hit the stop!
thanks thomas for the information i have the same problem with my vw 1.9 tdi 105 ch engine bxe diesel .ma car stops after 30 minutes. after it is difficult to start is what the turbo can stop the engine I have a code p0234 thank you
No, turbo can't stop / stall the engine (as far as I know).
When it does not start start... turn the key ON, does the check engine light come on (it should) with the battery light? Yes / no, let me know.
n 109 or cps?
Looks like I have the problem with my 02 golf. Keeps over boosting, I thought it was the actuator rod out of adjusting,I leghthend it a bit, and no change. What's the easiest way to get to the screw?
From under the turbo.
Is the turbo rod lever actually returning fully? You might have to force it through its full travel manually to clear away the carbon around the vanes that is preventing it from moving fully. Some people use oven cleaner to soak the carbon loose.
@@EXOVCDS yes the lever returns back all the way, I've had the turbo off before it's clean. I looked at the stop screw using a boroscope. I'm seeing about 3 threads at the top and alot at the bottom.
The screw is probably too low... like in my video.
Apply 17" of vacuum with a hand pump (engine off)... vane lever should be touching the stop screw. If no, raise the screw.
@@EXOVCDS update: I turned in the screw 2 1/2 turns , readjusted the actuator arm and im showing the actual boost above the requested,the more pedal the bigger the gap
interesting , what if you can't turn the adjustment screw?mine is sized in there solid.
If it has never been adjusted... It's most likely in the correct position. If the vanes do not retract fully, that will also cause an overboost situation. If the vane lever hits the stop screw before the vacuum actuator has 17"HG of vacuum then an adjustment might be necessary. Using a propane heat gun, can help free up seized studs.
thx for the answer, it seems i have to free the screw
Great video Thomas ! Love the scrolling subliminal message 😁😁 Just kidding !
I need to promote other channels... as much as they promote me!
The $5 was added for humor... I'm sure that RUclips will flag this kind of stuff, thinking I'm serious. LOL
I didn't realize Leon was a blonde. lol Nice fix Thomas
Monday's, Wednesday's & Sunday's!
👍
Thank you for watching!
Totally off subject but do you know of any good websites for 88 to 93 parts.
?
Golf, Jetta, Vanagon...?
Watercooled parts / vehicles on the right side of the web page:
www.vwheritage.com/
Thomas EXOVCDS, cabby/golf
What is the stock boost psi of agr 1.9tdi?? Please help
From the service manual (alway a good idea to own one):
‒ Accelerate vehicle in 3rd gear from about 1500 rpm using full throttle.
- at approx. 3000 rpm.
- Specification: 1550...1750 mbar
(8 to 10 psi)
(1000 mbar is sea level... so 550 to 750 is 8 to 10psi)
@@EXOVCDS thankss
@@EXOVCDS for a kkk turbo version?
@@sammcharis service manual didn't specify brand. KKK was a stock turbo, so I would imagine that the service info applies. You can email me and I'll send you (tomorrow) what I was looking at.
@@sammcharis if your N18 is no good... you are overboosting because vacuum is not getting to the wastgate pod?
Where’s the video to adjust that rod?
Nelson Velasco No need for video. 3:51 shows the rod / adjusting screw. If over boosting, raise the rod / screw. 8mm lock nut and a 3mm (I think) allen for the screw.
Nelson Velasco Sorry... 5:31
Thank you so much!!!
I replaced to wastegate and measured the length of the rod of the watergate when I did but now is overboosting. I’ll try this.
customers tampering with their cars..LOL he was trying to Roll coal in a TDI..
LOL... that could have been it!
I doubt that the customer did it... older fellow.