Love your videos, true professional and educator! Would love to see some of the pull tests follow up videos from the school. Had a question of when you use silicones vs polyurethane caulking's. I primarily seal exterior buildings/masonry/windows. I feel like there's a lot of hate going around the industry for Urethanes but we've had great success with Sika 1A and Masterseal products. Do you have a go to manufacturer? Thank you
No offense Sir but you are completely clueless!! This is absolutely unacceptable and unbelievable to anyone who is even mid level caulking skills. Taping?? No one Tapes anything that knows how to caulk. This is a crew of border jumpers wall jumpers whatever Or what others refer to as a Biden Crew Mexicans with the faces all covered up No Green cards No business even being in the country let alone working and Your tax dollars are paying for this absolute Shit show fake news liberal bullshit. I’m an old broken down 63 year old geezer and I would still have 10 times that brick joint footage done without taping anything and actually have a Seal ( which is supposed to be the purpose of caulking) and it would look good by Real caulkers standards. This is absolutely brutal and only America. Unions need to be skills test challenged before allowed to Even Bid on caulking jobs nowadays to expose this corruption liberal racism and everything else that this disaster represents
Good sealant, maintenance requires annual inspections. If there’s failed sealant, it must be removed and replaced. It is always good to check with the material manufacturer for the proper sealant replacement.
Does the chalk need to go up the whole expansion joint? I just bought a house and the top 1m of the approx 2.5m tall wall has no filling. I have no idea if this is broken down sealant and there was sealant or if it's normal to only do the bottom portion. In your video, I only saw the bottom of the expansion joints being sealed. I am worried about rain.
They just put full four inch wide half inch thick expansion white foam stuff between brickwork in England and it’s way better and smarter than this sloppy mess
My mason did, I feel, a poor job on the expansion joint caulking on the 2 all brick additions on my all brick home. He waited about a year to get it done. It's getting redone, either by him or a pro caulking company. I'm in Wisconsin. I would like your opinion and advice on caulking product and color. May I send you a photo. Address? I need answers quickly so it can get done yet this year. Thank you.
These guys are not Real Caulkers. I knew plenty of Real caulkers who would caulk and knife ( actually seal) at least 10 of those brick joints in less time than these guys are taking to tape and NOBODY TAPES WHO ACTUALLY KNOWS HOW TO CAULK!!
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 brick vertical expansion joint, very similar to the one in your video. The current caulk was slathered all over the place and is now cracking on a 17 year old home. Plan is to remove the old caulk and replace with a newer and cleaner looking application. Unsure if backer foam was used, but I plan to use that too, as you demonstrated in your video. Thanks! Edit - I see your recommended caulk below in a previous response. Thanks!
What’s kick ass about it? I’m a retired broken down old geezer and I could have run and knifed that way better and no Fucken tape no one that ever worked as a caulker taped anything
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 whats your thoughts on pine sticks and soap water? i notice you only use the tools you invented (cool btw). i ordered a pair on amazon
@@FacePalmTheWorldArmy I am familiar with pine-sticks or whittle-sticks as they are sometimes called because they are carved into a shape that fits the joint. Just about everything has been used to tool sealants, including potatoes. Using a modern tool that is tapered to fit the joinery is preferred. As for using soapy water, dry tooling is ALWAYS required to ensured adequate adhesion. Sometimes caulkers will use soapy water to better the appearance. This is also called slicking the sealant. This is acceptable provided that dry-tooling is first. However, a skillful caulker should seldom need to use soapy water to achieve a good appearance.
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 do you build the brick wall then cut the expansion joints or do you build the brick wall with the expansion joint in place? Look forward to hearing from you, thanks in advance.
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 Awesome!! I work for a commercial caulking company , Luciana Restoration out of Broomall PA. We do a lot of work in Lakewood, I'm from South Jersey and I have been a commercial caulker for a lil over 10 years. I've been watching your videos for awhile now and I really like what you guys do..
@@kylewright5441If you’re a caulker and think that this guy’s videos are good or that any of his caulking looks acceptable Then your Standards your company standards are So much lower than any of about 5 different ones I’ve worked for Caulkers are the absolute fussiest pickiest nit pickers of anything in the bricklayers union.They wanted perfect those brick joints are completely unacceptable according to at least 2 of the companies that I worked for Standards might be Really non existent now
Taping the brickwork Unbelievable!! Brick joints are really a bitch to try and get perfect ( not like that mess) and oftentimes the bricklayers don’t tool the back corner of windows jamb and there’s holes in the mortar all over and the caulking will want to migrate into the mortar joints but if you’re a skilled caulker you can sorta side knife tool and just seal the joint and sometimes those types of structures are all hollow no insulation no weeps no drainage system like in every other country but no standards USA if you try and put backer rod into some of these style windows it will just fall into the void and there’s really no way to pack them sometimes the windows should be bigger and less huge gaps
@@WayneBelcher-tc5pdYeah I know what your saying with that I think, But There are Some Brick and Windows that are just Awful craftsmanship either the Brick opening is just Way too big or they measured wrong and ordered the wrong size windows and There’s No way that you could do the backer rod stick thing. The Windows are literally Too far back There is No Return just a Huge opening where you can literally see inside the cavity wall. Having No Inspectors on jobs was a real problem back then and it’s worse now Entire building window systems are really flim flam sometimes Old buildings had Standards with tight fitting everything
Mr.Wayne good to see you on video clips. I miss my caulking gun 🔫
I'll like to see the hilti firestop caulking on top of wall installation
Love your videos, true professional and educator! Would love to see some of the pull tests follow up videos from the school. Had a question of when you use silicones vs polyurethane caulking's. I primarily seal exterior buildings/masonry/windows. I feel like there's a lot of hate going around the industry for Urethanes but we've had great success with Sika 1A and Masterseal products. Do you have a go to manufacturer? Thank you
No offense Sir but you are completely clueless!! This is absolutely unacceptable and unbelievable to anyone who is even mid level caulking skills. Taping?? No one Tapes anything that knows how to caulk. This is a crew of border jumpers wall jumpers whatever Or what others refer to as a Biden Crew Mexicans with the faces all covered up No Green cards No business even being in the country let alone working and Your tax dollars are paying for this absolute Shit show fake news liberal bullshit. I’m an old broken down 63 year old geezer and I would still have 10 times that brick joint footage done without taping anything and actually have a Seal ( which is supposed to be the purpose of caulking) and it would look good by Real caulkers standards. This is absolutely brutal and only America. Unions need to be skills test challenged before allowed to Even Bid on caulking jobs nowadays to expose this corruption liberal racism and everything else that this disaster represents
If you think that this guy’s a good caulker then you don’t know a single thing about the industry sir no offense
How often must this be done? Got a house with joint showing gaps after 2years. Is it simply going over the old caulk or do I need to take it out?
Good sealant, maintenance requires annual inspections. If there’s failed sealant, it must be removed and replaced. It is always good to check with the material manufacturer for the proper sealant replacement.
Does the chalk need to go up the whole expansion joint? I just bought a house and the top 1m of the approx 2.5m tall wall has no filling. I have no idea if this is broken down sealant and there was sealant or if it's normal to only do the bottom portion. In your video, I only saw the bottom of the expansion joints being sealed. I am worried about rain.
The sealant should fill the whole joint top to bottom and in most cases terminates at the end of the substrate being sealed.
They just put full four inch wide half inch thick expansion white foam stuff between brickwork in England and it’s way better and smarter than this sloppy mess
My mason did, I feel, a poor job on the expansion joint caulking on the 2 all brick additions on my all brick home. He waited about a year to get it done. It's getting redone, either by him or a pro caulking company. I'm in Wisconsin. I would like your opinion and advice on caulking product and color. May I send you a photo. Address? I need answers quickly so it can get done yet this year. Thank you.
Send me a photo at wayne@uniproseal.com
Sending an email. Thank you!
These guys are not Real Caulkers. I knew plenty of Real caulkers who would caulk and knife ( actually seal) at least 10 of those brick joints in less time than these guys are taking to tape and NOBODY TAPES WHO ACTUALLY KNOWS HOW TO CAULK!!
What’s a recommended product to fill the joint?
What type of joint are you trying to seal?
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 brick vertical expansion joint, very similar to the one in your video. The current caulk was slathered all over the place and is now cracking on a 17 year old home. Plan is to remove the old caulk and replace with a newer and cleaner looking application. Unsure if backer foam was used, but I plan to use that too, as you demonstrated in your video. Thanks! Edit - I see your recommended caulk below in a previous response. Thanks!
@@BlahBlah-em2ed Thank you for the clarity. In your case a premium polyurethane sealant will work fine. Something like Sika 1A or Sika 15LM
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 great. I’m familiar with that product. Much appreciated. Good day Sir!
Kick ass
What’s kick ass about it? I’m a retired broken down old geezer and I could have run and knifed that way better and no Fucken tape no one that ever worked as a caulker taped anything
That is awesome
Tape?
You must have caulked or seen real caulking this guy is a wanker
You ever seen caulked control joints on a rubble stone wall?
Yes I have, but in order to make it look decent we recessed the joint slightly. then, to match the joinery we sanded the joint.
what kind of Caulk you use
DowSil 790
Where can I find that roller tool or what is it called?
Colorado Steel Sash Company in Seattle. Ask for the large roller knife.
You can use a packing knife works better
how long did you wait to pull the tape?
The tape should always be pulled immediately after tooling.
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 whats your thoughts on pine sticks and soap water? i notice you only use the tools you invented (cool btw). i ordered a pair on amazon
@@FacePalmTheWorldArmy I am familiar with pine-sticks or whittle-sticks as they are sometimes called because they are carved into a shape that fits the joint. Just about everything has been used to tool sealants, including potatoes. Using a modern tool that is tapered to fit the joinery is preferred. As for using soapy water, dry tooling is ALWAYS required to ensured adequate adhesion. Sometimes caulkers will use soapy water to better the appearance. This is also called slicking the sealant. This is acceptable provided that dry-tooling is first. However, a skillful caulker should seldom need to use soapy water to achieve a good appearance.
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 awesome, thank you so much for your advice and video.
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 do you build the brick wall then cut the expansion joints or do you build the brick wall with the expansion joint in place? Look forward to hearing from you, thanks in advance.
Where at in NJ where ya??
Near Lakewood Township
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 Awesome!! I work for a commercial caulking company , Luciana Restoration out of Broomall PA. We do a lot of work in Lakewood, I'm from South Jersey and I have been a commercial caulker for a lil over 10 years. I've been watching your videos for awhile now and I really like what you guys do..
@@unitedprofessionalcaulking9038 can you help me ? I want information
@@ivan11pantera8 - What do you need help with?
@@kylewright5441If you’re a caulker and think that this guy’s videos are good or that any of his caulking looks acceptable Then your Standards your company standards are So much lower than any of about 5 different ones I’ve worked for Caulkers are the absolute fussiest pickiest nit pickers of anything in the bricklayers union.They wanted perfect those brick joints are completely unacceptable according to at least 2 of the companies that I worked for Standards might be Really non existent now
Damn I almost didn’t notice the brickwork is butchered who cut into the joints all over that brickwork?
He tooled it wrong
These guys are brutal and Wayne is a clown
Taping the brickwork Unbelievable!! Brick joints are really a bitch to try and get perfect ( not like that mess) and oftentimes the bricklayers don’t tool the back corner of windows jamb and there’s holes in the mortar all over and the caulking will want to migrate into the mortar joints but if you’re a skilled caulker you can sorta side knife tool and just seal the joint and sometimes those types of structures are all hollow no insulation no weeps no drainage system like in every other country but no standards USA if you try and put backer rod into some of these style windows it will just fall into the void and there’s really no way to pack them sometimes the windows should be bigger and less huge gaps
@@WayneBelcher-tc5pdYeah I know what your saying with that I think, But There are Some Brick and Windows that are just Awful craftsmanship either the Brick opening is just Way too big or they measured wrong and ordered the wrong size windows and There’s No way that you could do the backer rod stick thing. The Windows are literally Too far back There is No Return just a Huge opening where you can literally see inside the cavity wall. Having No Inspectors on jobs was a real problem back then and it’s worse now Entire building window systems are really flim flam sometimes Old buildings had Standards with tight fitting everything
Taping brickwork 🥴