You put backer rod in your joint not because of the ability to shoot less. Even though yes that is a plus side with the rod, but You use backer rod because if you have a 3 point adhesion then the caulking will fail. It won’t allow true expansion and contraction. Make sure you find out if it’s Urethane or silicone. The tremco brand makes a good hybrid of the two
Not only to prevent 3 sided bond but also proper sealant depth and profile. All of which are critical to sealant performance and life expectancy. In this case , unless the sealant is going to be recessed ,the backer rod is way too deep.
That brickwork is Shockingly bad! In the uk we built in a brick width roll of foam that has a 10 mm strip that peels off after the brickwork is built ready to be sealed with a bead of mastic.
A inch of caulking that's to much you should do a 3/8 to 1/2 in at the max any more then that your wasting it and you loose it strength and ability to expand and contract
Expansion joints are just the most silly thing ever. To put a vertical line of weakness in brickwork. I have seen poorly constructed walls nearly falling down and were are they breaking? Along the expansion joint. They are a completely needless point of weakness in a wall and the proof of their needlessness can be seen in 200 year old walls which stretch for miles but which have not suffered for want of an expansion joint.
200 yr old walls used lime mortar that expands with the growth of the brick. Modern day clay bricks will expand and or blow without expansion gaps. I make my money by re building blown or cracked brick walls/houses. I’ve seen houses over two storey pulled down, due to having none!
@@mikefandango2296 It is true that modern mortars, which are harder than the bricks, do cause problems. They should not make mortars like that. They need make more suitable mortars of use the lime based mortars like they used to rather than putting a faultline of weakness in a wall. I have seen a poorly constructed retaining wall 9 inch wall 6 feet high with porous bricks falling down at the expansion joint.
In a brick veneer, there are additional ties installed between the bricks and the timber frame either side of the expansion join. This is supposed to allow the joint to move (open and contract) without the wall falling over.
You’re right about that sir and I would know, spent 30 years in bricklayers union and spent a lot of time trying to caulk and seal ugly sloppy low standards splash job brickwork joints USA might be the only place that is so low no standards that uses control and expansion joints
@@mikefandango2296They most likely had bad mortar originally poorly mixed dead mortar or something Had nothing to do with not having control joints which are Only in No standards USA England Never lowered standards to American flim flam caulk and paint will make it what it aint no standards shit
I was thinking of using a closed cell foam sealant such as Loctite instead of the foam backer rod to form a better seal.... any thoughts or comments on if this would be ok or not? Thx!
Sikaflex or Sonolastic both make products for this application. Probably need to go to a supply house that services contractors and not some teenager at a box store.
Bad idea. Use the backer rod. It is actually a well engineered system. Backer rod and sealant. The optimum joint configuration for long lasting performance is a very consistent hourglass shape. Like this “) (“ where the top and bottom of the illustration represent the sides of the joint.The backer rod gives the sealant the proper profile.
Sealant is necessary to block air and moisture from getting behind the brick. Brick is typically considered a "rainscreen", which is not structural, and blocks about 90-95% of bulk water from reaching the backside. The sealant keeps this rainscreen continuous, rather than having breaks in the facade every 20 feet. Backer rod would loosen and fall out over time, whereas a urethane sealant will last around 5-10 years and a silicone sealant will last nearly 20.
@@dylanjohnson3814 thanks for that. My brother in laws house isn't sealed with silicone instead there is a squishy foam exposed from top to bottom in the expansion joint, I always thought this was missed during construction
You put backer rod in your joint not because of the ability to shoot less. Even though yes that is a plus side with the rod, but You use backer rod because if you have a 3 point adhesion then the caulking will fail. It won’t allow true expansion and contraction. Make sure you find out if it’s Urethane or silicone. The tremco brand makes a good hybrid of the two
Not only to prevent 3 sided bond but also proper sealant depth and profile. All of which are critical to sealant performance and life expectancy. In this case , unless the sealant is going to be recessed ,the backer rod is way too deep.
Never silicone ever
That brickwork is Shockingly bad! In the uk we built in a brick width roll of foam that has a 10 mm strip that peels off after the brickwork is built ready to be sealed with a bead of mastic.
You did not mention the tie expandable expansion joint tie bracket that holds the two parts of the wall together and allows for movement..
Not how we do in UK.its styro foam strip and is built in as we build course by course.interesting how you do in USA.respect from UK.
great video, thank you
How do you do this for a horizontal movement joint. The kind called for by IRC 703.8.2
A inch of caulking that's to much you should do a 3/8 to 1/2 in at the max any more then that your wasting it and you loose it strength and ability to expand and contract
Legit question: Why don’t we mortar these joints? Is there a reason why this is caulked?
What can I do if I'm buying an existing building that doesn't have expansion joints?
Good question hope you get a reply from a professional
You'll probably be fine
Hello Sir,,, my name is Md Asif Sayeed
and I am a Civil Engineer
Can you please show me in 3D views How to react building on the expansion joint
Expansion joints are just the most silly thing ever. To put a vertical line of weakness in brickwork. I have seen poorly constructed walls nearly falling down and were are they breaking? Along the expansion joint. They are a completely needless point of weakness in a wall and the proof of their needlessness can be seen in 200 year old walls which stretch for miles but which have not suffered for want of an expansion joint.
200 yr old walls used lime mortar that expands with the growth of the brick. Modern day clay bricks will expand and or blow without expansion gaps. I make my money by re building blown or cracked brick walls/houses. I’ve seen houses over two storey pulled down, due to having none!
@@mikefandango2296 It is true that modern mortars, which are harder than the bricks, do cause problems. They should not make mortars like that. They need make more suitable mortars of use the lime based mortars like they used to rather than putting a faultline of weakness in a wall. I have seen a poorly constructed retaining wall 9 inch wall 6 feet high with porous bricks falling down at the expansion joint.
In a brick veneer, there are additional ties installed between the bricks and the timber frame either side of the expansion join. This is supposed to allow the joint to move (open and contract) without the wall falling over.
You’re right about that sir and I would know, spent 30 years in bricklayers union and spent a lot of time trying to caulk and seal ugly sloppy low standards splash job brickwork joints USA might be the only place that is so low no standards that uses control and expansion joints
@@mikefandango2296They most likely had bad mortar originally poorly mixed dead mortar or something Had nothing to do with not having control joints which are Only in No standards USA England Never lowered standards to American flim flam caulk and paint will make it what it aint no standards shit
Wheres the control ties required??
Agreed
brick and jointy?
I was thinking of using a closed cell foam sealant such as Loctite instead of the foam backer rod to form a better seal.... any thoughts or comments on if this would be ok or not? Thx!
What kind of Caulk do I need to use?
Sikaflex or Sonolastic both make products for this application. Probably need to go to a supply house that services contractors and not some teenager at a box store.
Bad idea. Use the backer rod. It is actually a well engineered system. Backer rod and sealant. The optimum joint configuration for long lasting performance is a very consistent hourglass shape. Like this “) (“ where the top and bottom of the illustration represent the sides of the joint.The backer rod gives the sealant the proper profile.
Question, do you have to caulk it? Or can you just hsve the foam exposed
Sealant is necessary to block air and moisture from getting behind the brick. Brick is typically considered a "rainscreen", which is not structural, and blocks about 90-95% of bulk water from reaching the backside. The sealant keeps this rainscreen continuous, rather than having breaks in the facade every 20 feet. Backer rod would loosen and fall out over time, whereas a urethane sealant will last around 5-10 years and a silicone sealant will last nearly 20.
@@dylanjohnson3814 thanks for that. My brother in laws house isn't sealed with silicone instead there is a squishy foam exposed from top to bottom in the expansion joint, I always thought this was missed during construction
@@dylanjohnson3814 what kind/brand of sealant you recommend to fill in the brick wall expansion joint?