That link does not work. I did find that product in a 12-pack though. Is there another product that would work the same way? I don't want to buy a 12-pack.
After I seal cracks in concrete I pour a little sand over the caulk and it blends in with the concrete and you can almost drive over without sticking to tires.
@@msjoy2005 Some reported to use playground sand or quikcrete sand to pour on top of caulk or filler...it will cause it to dry faster and blend in with the concrete... either gray or white.. Just found out about this tip..
One guy, Mike Haduk, in Pennsylvania uses sand & Portland cement 5:1 to fill the cracks (so that shifting weather doesn't cause it to crack) then caulk with a little dry Portland cement on top that is wetted down so that in the end it looks like concrete and not caulking.
Nice job! If you have lots of cracks to fill or even want to fill your expansion joints, use spray foam. It will save the use of a lot of sealant. I tried the baking rod, but spray foam was much faster and filled the gaps better.
@@ThriftyGarage I think it was called great stuff, but I don't think the brand matters. Keep in mind even after it expands and sets outside of the Crack which it most likely will, I just took a flat head screwdriver and stuffed it back into the Crack. It worked great I can't stress enough to wear gloves!! Lol that shit is hard to get off your hands
If you plan to breathe for a lot longer, I recommend a dust mask when grinding concrete or using a blower nozzle. A lot of older men I grew up around died drowning with fluid in their lungs from dust damage.
I do what you do on brick, repoint. Fill crack with sand and a brush, working it in the crack. GENTLY MIST the area with water. Mix up 2/3rds portland and 1/3rd sand. Trowel/work into the cracks. Smooth with broom 30 mins later. What crack?
Rather than using compressed air first, to blast away the dust, loose bits of concrete and old sealant, etc., a shop vacuum might have been a better choice for getting that stuff out of the area altogether, and cleaning inside the crack better, instead of blowing it around, especially since some of the airborne concrete dust just resettles onto the walls of the crack, which can reduce adhesion by the new sealant. Then, compressed air can remove most of the rest of the dust that the vacuum didn't pull out. After doing this, if you're not in a hurry, it might be a good idea to spray down the crack and the area around it with water, to get any remaining dust to flow downward into the crack, past the point where the new sealant needs to go, leaving the walls of the crack cleaner for the new sealant. You'd need to wait for the wet concrete to dry before applying the new sealant, but you could speed up the drying by placing a fan so that it blows air along the length of the crack. If you've got two fans, place them at the two ends of the crack.
I think you have a good idea and I’m going to give it a try when I do my crack repair. What I may try first is a clean vacuum cleaner instead of the blower to collect the material. I’ve done the caulking before but it doesn’t match the concrete at all and Since it’s time to redo some of the bad areas I’m going to add that step. Thanks for the good comment
Ok finding a young man lately doing this and not working at a coffee shop is very impressive, for sure you will be old and very rich ..thanks for sharing .if you lived here I would definitely hire you.
Fill with some rod add sand to fill major voids then caulk.Add sand on top of caulk to help blend it in to the concrete.Most of my clients don’t want to see a wide area of repair just the crack.Good job though the more of them you do the better you will get at it.
I am new to binging diy youtube videos - but man, how can you handle all of the negative comments! If you don't have anything nice to say, keep it to your damn self! Thank you for taking the time to create the video. Would you recommend backer/filler next time if you had to do it again? And how has this held up over the years? Thanks!
Yes, definitely backer rod. I have two other videos with the same DAP product. You can see my learning process. Thanks for the positive comments and thanks for watching!
Hi Nicole!! I agree with you, but some of this coments also show concern about personal safety. Concrete dust is really dangerous for yor lungs. And whenever you use power tools you have to take all kinds of precautions so you don't hurt yourself or others. Have you done any repairs on concrete floor or walls that have worked for you? I have some cracks on my walls an concrete floor. Thank you. Take care. The weekend is almost here so have a nice weekend. Greetings from Tucson Arizona.
Perhaps they could be less abrasive but these comments can help people as much as the video. I never watch just one video and say, "okay, that's how you do it." I also read the comments for things I don't think of...
It's helpful to point out what not to do like what's done in this video. That's the wrong material to use and it won't last. Don't take advice from non-professionals when working with concrete. Nothing against this channel personally. If I recorded every project I've done that didn't come out right because I did it wrong I'd have quite a collection of content.
For 2x4 size contraction joints... I use pool noodles from dollar store and play sand it saved me a lot of money in Sika self leveling but I only figured that out after I had dumped a bunch of money in the crack.
TheCbone1979 - Thanks for sharing that. I recently came up with the same idea for a wide crack between my foundation and a slab abutting it. I've done a fair bit of concrete work around my home over the years, but I am not gonna tear the slab out and re-pour it since it's only moved about 3 inches in 35 years and it would be a PITA area to form and pour since there are deck stairs resting on the slab. I tried putting expanding foam in the gap, but it quickly became apparent that it would take several cans. I haven't tried the pool noodle method yet, but it's good to read that someone else uses it and that it works for them. I've also considered thick pieces of foam rubber.
Anyone got any input on what to use for a cracked floor in a sauna? The crack isn't as wide as this, but water readily goes through it. Only worried because it's a sauna, it gets hot, though I don't believe the floor gets that hot but I don't really know how hot it gets. (At head height it's regularly 180-200 degrees, accidentally have gotten it as high as 230.
Use backer rod to fill the crack as much as possible. Same idea with caulking windows and doors. The caulk has a limit on how large (depth & width) it can fill and cure correctly while maintaining the proper expansion capabilities.
@@huejanus5505 I have installed sealants professionally for over 40 years and those are 2 of the keys to long sealant life. The others are proper prep cleaning and priming the bonding surfaces. Using backer rod for the proper joint profile( and as you said depth control) and finally use a professional grade product not a cheap consumer product like this👍
@@franktartan6808 Sika, Tremco/ Vulkem, and Sonneborn/ Master Seal all make good self leveling sealants.. They also make semi self leveling for slightly sloped surfaces.
I'd have started filling with minimal expanding foam to fill the voids and cracks. Let it dry, cut it back and fill over top of it with the caulking. A lot less caulking to use and you get a very water tight seal. Otherwise, lots of hard work on your part but your job looks good as well. Well done!
They make this stuff called backer-rod. Foam strips 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. You push the backer rod into crack, sitting about a quarter inch below surface. That way you don't have to use as much sealant
Can you place a little bit more of that product down on those areas where a little bit more is needed? I’m asking because it’s now dry/malleable and I’m not sure if you can go back and apply a little bit more to level that off or if it’s too late? Great video by the way!
If you'd have put sand over the curing filler, nothing would've stuck to it. I've seen this in Next Level Carpentry workshop on filling concrete cracks. He's great pro carpenter and good at instructing DIYers.
@@OCDrBill here is a video that not only shows one way to maintain a control joint but also shows what happens if you fail to install a control joint: ruclips.net/video/pSfgO1kpvLA/видео.html
Next time put some backer rod in the gap so you don't need so much caulk. Look up backer rod if you don't know what it is. It's made for this job and, despite the name, it's not a rod. It's rubber-like. Also, don't throw out the partial tube of caulk. I wrap the end in cling wrap and then slip one of those little finger condoms over the nozzle and it works perfectly. The rest of the tube is good even up to years later - even silico e. I hope you filled that big big gap that you didn't fill in the video. If you live where it freezes, that will cause frost heaving and frost wedgi g. Fill most of it with backer rod then caulk.
Hi I hope this isn't a dumb question but I have cement around my pool, like a large patio area. They cut it years ago and now it's separated and pulled apart. Can I use this application to fix those kind of cracks ?
crazycatlady1313 ... Cracks that wide are best filled with a high strength mortar mix. More than likely your 3” wide cracks are deep too. So ... you might consider filling with sand up to about 2” from the top, tamping it in as much as possible, then fill the rest of the way with the mortar mix. Dampen the sides of the crack to get good adhesion.
I'm sure it would work. But it may not be the best application. I suspect it would take a long time to cure. As well as it would not likely set up hard, but rather more rubber like. I would consider instead some type of self-leveling concrete or the like. Quickrete has a variety of products for different applications.
@@ThriftyGarage thank you, I have no experience with any exterior repairs, or with concrete, but the job is far too small to involve a pro concrete repair person.
Use Sika....Swiss brand making amazing products for concrete repair. They have a lot more presence in Europe. Look for sikaflex self leveling, amazing product
If was your mom you would have got it for no respirator, face shield, Hearing protection and hand protection. I worked in the power industry and i know about hazds of grinder use. Be more careful in other projects.
I don't think a trowel would have worked well. It is "self-leveling" but the top also cures before the middle. And YES using backer rod would be a GREAT idea! I will definitely do that next time.
Sorry bud ......it’s a fail ! An invisible fix it ain’t ! All the dust, erasing concrete texture 2 inches both sides of fracture, all unnecessary. Frankenstein end result. At least I learned how NOT to do it. You live....you learn !
No way! This is the #1 comment for this video. You know, all these Safety Sally comments have definitely helped with the RUclips algorithm promote this video? But in all seriousness, yes, I should have worn some PPE. Lesson learned, but can't change the past. Hopefully y'all can learn from my mistake also.
Hi Joshua!! So what's the best way to fix this cracks on the floor and how about the ones on the walls of concrete block?? I have several on my house. Thank you.
@@leonnegro4504 The best way is to get ahold of a 4 1/2 angle grinder with a crack chaser diamond blade - grind into the crack making it 1/4 inch wide and 1/4 inch deep - use backer rod as needed and caulk what you just ground out. Same thing with the block - grind out crack but, this time instead of caulk; use mortar and a sponge.
I can't believe all of the snide critiques here. Too much testosterone for some of them. They might be right about safety precautions, but some were rude about it. At the same time, others did give a few alternatives that I'd consider. I do have two questions for you: 1) Given the time that it takes to dry, if I have dogs, how can I protect the repaired area without them stepping on the sealant and making an indentation? Would it even matter as long as the crack is filled from the bottom up? I'm not worried about them licking the sealant because 90% of the time I go outside with them, but as I said, I wouldn't want them making paw prints on the sealant if it causes a problem. 2) The sealant that is above the flat concrete surface, does that need to be sanded down to make it even with the concrete driveway? Or is that something that doesn't need to be considered? If it's not a big deal, that's fine. I don't want to sand it smoothly if it's going to ruin the job. I'll wait for your response before going to the hardware store.
Answer #1 many people recommend using sand to coat and protect from leaves or dirt from sticking as well as prevent smearing if stepped on. I prefer the smooth surface without but there is a concern of items sticking.
Answer #2 I would recommend finishing flush with the top of concrete or slightly below. It does not cure hard, more rubber like. I don’t suspect it would sand well. Hood luck on your project and thanks for watching!
You are correct. Unfortunately, this video was filmed before OSHA implimented the Silica Standard. We now know Silica causes cancer and yes you should wear a mask. I plan to do a new video showing the proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). Let me know if there are any additional items that need to be addressed in an updated video.
@@ThriftyGarage I've been involved in OSHA training since 2006 and they were earning about it back then. Not trying to give you shit. Just blows my mind how bad that stuff is and we see it everyday, someone cutting, drilling, grinding some form of silica and no respirator.
YOUNG MAN ! YOU ARE SO SMART😅! PLEASE SHOW YOUR AUDIENCE WHAT THEY SHOULD DO FIRST ! WHERE GOOD , PROPER, FACE MASK PLEASE! EYE GEAR PLEASE! AND COVERING HANDS ,OR BODY WHEN NEEDED ? THINKING OF YOU!
Interesting, I will have to look into it for my next project. How does it withstand the freeze thaw cycles and seasonal expansion and contraction of concrete?
@@ThriftyGarage haha well... it doesn't, just a yearly thing to do, but for the price of 2 tubes of caulking you can buy a 25kg (around 55 lbs) of material which will last you a looooooong time ;)
Here is a link to the Dap 3.0 Advanced Self-Leveling Concrete Sealant: amzn.to/2Rr4OkO
So cheaper varieties don’t live up to claims on the label????
That link does not work. I did find that product in a 12-pack though. Is there another product that would work the same way? I don't want to buy a 12-pack.
I’d look at Home Depot or Lowes
@@Smokey-ft2bpI ⁴5
GE Advanced Silicone has done a great job for my asphalt driveway. It’s hard to beat 100% flexible silicone.
After I seal cracks in concrete I pour a little sand over the caulk and it blends in with the concrete and you can almost drive over without sticking to tires.
Going to try this when i repair my porch
Regular colored sand?
@@msjoy2005
Some reported to use playground sand or quikcrete sand to pour on top of caulk or filler...it will cause it to dry faster and blend in with the concrete... either gray or white..
Just found out about this tip..
One guy, Mike Haduk, in Pennsylvania uses sand & Portland cement 5:1 to fill the cracks (so that shifting weather doesn't cause it to crack) then caulk with a little dry Portland cement on top that is wetted down so that in the end it looks like concrete and not caulking.
Nice job! If you have lots of cracks to fill or even want to fill your expansion joints, use spray foam. It will save the use of a lot of sealant. I tried the baking rod, but spray foam was much faster and filled the gaps better.
Great idea! What brand spray foam do you prefer? We have a video with Loctite spray foam and I really like it!
@@ThriftyGarage I think it was called great stuff, but I don't think the brand matters. Keep in mind even after it expands and sets outside of the Crack which it most likely will, I just took a flat head screwdriver and stuffed it back into the Crack. It worked great
I can't stress enough to wear gloves!! Lol that shit is hard to get off your hands
You really killed it with this concrete repair series. Well done
Yes, it has been a great video series. I hope that one day this video will reach 1 million views!
Sarcasm who?
If you plan to breathe for a lot longer, I recommend a dust mask when grinding concrete or using a blower nozzle. A lot of older men I grew up around died drowning with fluid in their lungs from dust damage.
Well noted.
@@ThriftyGarage W comment, W response. Love to see it.
I do what you do on brick, repoint. Fill crack with sand and a brush, working it in the crack. GENTLY MIST the area with water. Mix up 2/3rds portland and 1/3rd sand. Trowel/work into the cracks. Smooth with broom 30 mins later. What crack?
Sounds professional!
Rather than using compressed air first, to blast away the dust, loose bits of concrete and old sealant, etc., a shop vacuum might have been a better choice for getting that stuff out of the area altogether, and cleaning inside the crack better, instead of blowing it around, especially since some of the airborne concrete dust just resettles onto the walls of the crack, which can reduce adhesion by the new sealant. Then, compressed air can remove most of the rest of the dust that the vacuum didn't pull out. After doing this, if you're not in a hurry, it might be a good idea to spray down the crack and the area around it with water, to get any remaining dust to flow downward into the crack, past the point where the new sealant needs to go, leaving the walls of the crack cleaner for the new sealant. You'd need to wait for the wet concrete to dry before applying the new sealant, but you could speed up the drying by placing a fan so that it blows air along the length of the crack. If you've got two fans, place them at the two ends of the crack.
If you save the ground up material, you could sprinkle it on top to match the caulk with the area worked.
I think you have a good idea and I’m going to give it a try when I do my crack repair. What I may try first is a clean vacuum cleaner instead of the blower to collect the material. I’ve done the caulking before but it doesn’t match the concrete at all and Since it’s time to redo some of the bad areas I’m going to add that step. Thanks for the good comment
Ok finding a young man lately doing this and not working at a coffee shop is very impressive, for sure you will be old and very rich ..thanks for sharing .if you lived here I would definitely hire you.
Thanks Patricia, I appreciate the kind words!
I agree. A democrat would never attempt this kinda job.
@@ryanstevens1855 Lol. What the hell?
@@ryanstevens1855lol what? I don't think being a Democrat stops you from home repairs😆
Lmao boomer
Fill with some rod add sand to fill major voids then caulk.Add sand on top of caulk to help blend it in to the concrete.Most of my clients don’t want to see a wide area of repair just the crack.Good job though the more of them you do the better you will get at it.
Just saw a DYIer use medium expanding foam to fill the crack then place the caulk. Seemed right to save on caulk.
On a more recent video I used foam backer rod. Worked great!
@@ThriftyGarage great, I will check it out.
I am new to binging diy youtube videos - but man, how can you handle all of the negative comments! If you don't have anything nice to say, keep it to your damn self!
Thank you for taking the time to create the video. Would you recommend backer/filler next time if you had to do it again? And how has this held up over the years? Thanks!
Yes, definitely backer rod. I have two other videos with the same DAP product. You can see my learning process. Thanks for the positive comments and thanks for watching!
You'll notice that most of the criticisms include helpful suggestions on what to do.
Hi Nicole!! I agree with you, but some of this coments also show concern about personal safety. Concrete dust is really dangerous for yor lungs. And whenever you use power tools you have to take all kinds of precautions so you don't hurt yourself or others. Have you done any repairs on concrete floor or walls that have worked for you? I have some cracks on my walls an concrete floor. Thank you. Take care. The weekend is almost here so have a nice weekend. Greetings from Tucson Arizona.
Perhaps they could be less abrasive but these comments can help people as much as the video. I never watch just one video and say, "okay, that's how you do it." I also read the comments for things I don't think of...
It's helpful to point out what not to do like what's done in this video. That's the wrong material to use and it won't last. Don't take advice from non-professionals when working with concrete. Nothing against this channel personally. If I recorded every project I've done that didn't come out right because I did it wrong I'd have quite a collection of content.
For 2x4 size contraction joints... I use pool noodles from dollar store and play sand it saved me a lot of money in Sika self leveling but I only figured that out after I had dumped a bunch of money in the crack.
Learning always costs you in one way or another. Usually time or money.
TheCbone1979 - Thanks for sharing that. I recently came up with the same idea for a wide crack between my foundation and a slab abutting it. I've done a fair bit of concrete work around my home over the years, but I am not gonna tear the slab out and re-pour it since it's only moved about 3 inches in 35 years and it would be a PITA area to form and pour since there are deck stairs resting on the slab. I tried putting expanding foam in the gap, but it quickly became apparent that it would take several cans. I haven't tried the pool noodle method yet, but it's good to read that someone else uses it and that it works for them. I've also considered thick pieces of foam rubber.
Another common component people recommend is sand.
Nice job. I did this the other day and used a compressor and vacuum at the same time to prevent the dust.
Thats a lot of caulk. You need to put some sand in first you would use a lot less caulk.
Anyone got any input on what to use for a cracked floor in a sauna? The crack isn't as wide as this, but water readily goes through it.
Only worried because it's a sauna, it gets hot, though I don't believe the floor gets that hot but I don't really know how hot it gets. (At head height it's regularly 180-200 degrees, accidentally have gotten it as high as 230.
I would like to know how long that day lasted before failing. I used day, and had to redo next year, next time try 3M
What kind of grinder is that??
Wear Knee Pads! You'll Thank me in 15-20 years!
Thanks for the video.
Use backer rod to fill the crack as much as possible. Same idea with caulking windows and doors. The caulk has a limit on how large (depth & width) it can fill and cure correctly while maintaining the proper expansion capabilities.
True! Typically you should not exceed the depth of caulk in 1/2 of the width. Those cracks look al ost 1 inch wide, so depth should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch
Any caulking lasts years longer when it’s set at the right depth and only sticks to the sides.
@@huejanus5505 I have installed sealants professionally for over 40 years and those are 2 of the keys to long sealant life. The others are proper prep cleaning and priming the bonding surfaces. Using backer rod for the proper joint profile( and as you said depth control) and finally use a professional grade product not a cheap consumer product like this👍
@@genecarden780 I love when people say "a professional grade product" but dont mention what to use. What is a professional grade product?
@@franktartan6808 Sika, Tremco/ Vulkem, and Sonneborn/ Master Seal all make good self leveling sealants.. They also make semi self leveling for slightly sloped surfaces.
Could you use it to fill the gaps between the slabs when laying a patio ?
I wouldn’t use it on cracks that large. I would use poly sand.
@@ThriftyGarage what's poly sand please
polymeric sand hardens like concrete when water is applied.
no mask, no guard, overfilled, underfilled, dirt. I learned a lot.
Oh well. To each his own. Don't sweat the small stuff.
But did you die?
Lighten up Francis
Joint size should not exceed ½” wide by ½” deep. If joint exceeds ½” use foam backer rod.
When blowing it out maybe hold the air nozzle at an angle sideways to blow debris away towards one side,instead of back at you.
No dust mask?!
I'd have started filling with minimal expanding foam to fill the voids and cracks. Let it dry, cut it back and fill over top of it with the caulking. A lot less caulking to use and you get a very water tight seal. Otherwise, lots of hard work on your part but your job looks good as well. Well done!
?
They make this stuff called backer-rod. Foam strips 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. You push the backer rod into crack, sitting about a quarter inch below surface. That way you don't have to use as much sealant
Yes, backer rod works great!
Not only a dust mask, but a full face shield in addition to safety glasses!
Let’s not get carried away now!
You got me!
Newbie here. Is it not a good idea to fill it with concrete?
Concrete will crack and break. It needs to allow for movement from expansion and contraction with changes in the weather.
Can you place a little bit more of that product down on those areas where a little bit more is needed? I’m asking because it’s now dry/malleable and I’m not sure if you can go back and apply a little bit more to level that off or if it’s too late? Great video by the way!
Nice video thanks
Thanks for watching!
If you'd have put sand over the curing filler, nothing would've stuck to it. I've seen this in Next Level Carpentry workshop on filling concrete cracks. He's great pro carpenter and good at instructing DIYers.
Great tip 👍
last time buy DAP concret sealant, was just like water bottle and could not use it,
That's unfortunate to hear. I've still got a few tubes left over. I wonder how well they store.
Can I repair the cracks whit bando ?
Make a video! I would love to see the outcome.
I use to do this for a living, I’ll never grind another thing with a respirator. I have permanent silica crap in my lungs
How long did it last ?
We have since moved. No issues for a couple of years while we lived there.
Putting fine sand on top of the concrete sealant might keep some leaf debris out too.
Or foam tubing. Job could have been alot quicker and cheaper....
You could of used backer rod to fill in the crack
Great advice 👍 I will plan to do that next time!
What is the name of the product you used for your repair???
DAP 3.0 Self-Leveling Concrete Sealant
After this kind of application can you skimcoat a fresh look over the top of the entire area?
If you did I would recommend that you maintain the control joint.
@@ThriftyGarage How would one go about doing that?
@@OCDrBill here is a video that not only shows one way to maintain a control joint but also shows what happens if you fail to install a control joint: ruclips.net/video/pSfgO1kpvLA/видео.html
Next time put some backer rod in the gap so you don't need so much caulk. Look up backer rod if you don't know what it is. It's made for this job and, despite the name, it's not a rod. It's rubber-like. Also, don't throw out the partial tube of caulk. I wrap the end in cling wrap and then slip one of those little finger condoms over the nozzle and it works perfectly. The rest of the tube is good even up to years later - even silico e. I hope you filled that big big gap that you didn't fill in the video. If you live where it freezes, that will cause frost heaving and frost wedgi g. Fill most of it with backer rod then caulk.
Not only mouth protection...what about your fingers when using that grinder...
"Danger? Hah! I walk on the wild side. I laugh in the face of danger." [laughs in determination] - Name that Movie.
@@ThriftyGarage I'm a qualified boilermaker, welder and never take a guard off.. I still have my fingers..
Do you also have a channel where you fly paramotors? :-)
What? No… why?
@@ThriftyGarage haha, it was a joke. I think you look a lot like Tucker Gott.
Oh, cool! I think I watched his McDonald’s video.
@@ThriftyGarage I thought it was funny to see Tucker repairing concrete
😂
how long before that Dap is dry usually? thanks
According to the label: 24 hours to fully cure. But it's paintable after 1 hour and can be exposed to water after 3 hours.
@@ThriftyGarage cool ...thax
Hi I hope this isn't a dumb question but I have cement around my pool, like a large patio area. They cut it years ago and now it's separated and pulled apart. Can I use this application to fix those kind of cracks ?
Depends on how wide the cracks are. It is very flexible and therefore great for applications where some movement occurs.
@@ThriftyGarage some are 3 inches
crazycatlady1313 ... Cracks that wide are best filled with a high strength mortar mix. More than likely your 3” wide cracks are deep too. So ... you might consider filling with sand up to about 2” from the top, tamping it in as much as possible, then fill the rest of the way with the mortar mix. Dampen the sides of the crack to get good adhesion.
@@cynthiamoon372 Thank you 😊
crazycatlady1313 if you use a high strength motor...coat the vertical sides with some concrete epoxy...better bonding.
Will this work on a large pit (2 × 4 x 1" deep in a covered concrete deck floor?
I'm sure it would work. But it may not be the best application. I suspect it would take a long time to cure. As well as it would not likely set up hard, but rather more rubber like. I would consider instead some type of self-leveling concrete or the like. Quickrete has a variety of products for different applications.
@@ThriftyGarage thank you, I have no experience with any exterior repairs, or with concrete, but the job is far too small to involve a pro concrete repair person.
Seems like this product like many others in DIY video's is only available from the US ! So why am I seeing these videos in the UK?
There are no similar products available in the UK? Not even under different brands?
Use Sika....Swiss brand making amazing products for concrete repair. They have a lot more presence in Europe. Look for sikaflex self leveling, amazing product
@@oliveraguirreconcreterepai4826 Thanks Oliver got a 30 mtr concrete drive that needs urgent attention 👍
Bob Funkhouse don’t watch.
@@williambeam8925 Too late😉
Nice sir
Thanks for watching!
For a concrete crack that wide and long, I would had chosen a high strength mortar mix. More than likely it would have a better match to the slab.
got a recommendation?
If was your mom you would have got it for no respirator, face shield, Hearing protection and hand protection. I worked in the power industry and i know about hazds of grinder use. Be more careful in other projects.
What about using backer fill rods? Should you have used a trowel to smooth it out as last step?
I don't think a trowel would have worked well. It is "self-leveling" but the top also cures before the middle. And YES using backer rod would be a GREAT idea! I will definitely do that next time.
Good job 👍
Nice job. May I suggest you use some sort of knee padding though. You’ll appreciate it later in life.
Sounds like a great idea!
I saw crack repair!! Finally I could get off this stuff. Big let down!
The best crack repair I can give...
Wear a belt.
No Hearing Protection!
Charles Gaputis ....what did you say?
POOR LUNGS BRO
NO MASK???
Yes, I should have worn a mask to prevent inhilation of silica dust.
NEVER take your guard off of your angle grinder.
Peter Kolovos can’t do this job with guard in place...obvious you never have.
Maybe he never had one on. Means he couldn't take it off.
Everybody is a fucking critic...I’ve done similar things 100s of times...still healthy at 71...
NO hearing protection?! Dude,I'd be amazed if you don't already have serious tinnitus by now (2020).
Jerry Campbell WHAT DID YOU SAY?
I can't believe he didn't even wear a mask!
Maly Bryan know it all woman.
Women? Wont be so tough when your lungs fail
Yeah that concrete couldve given him covid
Need a mask your breathing that concrete dust
Silica dust is not good for you.
I used limestone mp2 or SL liquor and don’t fill it much I used backrod
Sorry bud ......it’s a fail !
An invisible fix it ain’t !
All the dust, erasing concrete texture 2 inches both sides of fracture, all unnecessary.
Frankenstein end result.
At least I learned how NOT to do it.
You live....you learn !
Good on the lungs 🫁
Cool video anyway
Thanks for watching! Some life’s lessons are learned the hard way.
Suggestion : power wash the hole to clean it.
That is a great idea!
CaribbeanGuy Trinbago that will open a void underneath and would require more prep and material.
My dumbass would have done zero prep and started pumping.
No dust mask, no ear defenders....making me crazy!
No way! This is the #1 comment for this video. You know, all these Safety Sally comments have definitely helped with the RUclips algorithm promote this video? But in all seriousness, yes, I should have worn some PPE. Lesson learned, but can't change the past. Hopefully y'all can learn from my mistake also.
NEXT TIME JUST PUT A LITTLE SAND IN THE BOTTOM OF THE CRACK THEN PUT THE DAP ON TOP .
That is finish is terrable definatly wouldnt be happy with that!!!
It was much better than what was there before. However, with most things there is always room for improvement. Thanks for watching!
That's unfinished work BRO!
What a mess
Wondering why use that gooy stuff and rather use real concrete. Concrete could be flat leveled with the original
Concrete isn't flexible. When the concrete slab expands and contracts it will break again.
The right tools and you could have got this done in 15 minutes. Im a caulker by trade, ask and ill help.
Hi Joshua!! So what's the best way to fix this cracks on the floor and how about the ones on the walls of concrete block?? I have several on my house. Thank you.
@@leonnegro4504 The best way is to get ahold of a 4 1/2 angle grinder with a crack chaser diamond blade - grind into the crack making it 1/4 inch wide and 1/4 inch deep - use backer rod as needed and caulk what you just ground out. Same thing with the block - grind out crack but, this time instead of caulk; use mortar and a sponge.
@@joshm5015 Thank you for your help!!! I appreciate it!
Next crack
I have two more crack repair videos if you are interested 😉
Mask?
Yes, that would have been a good idea!
@@ThriftyGarage holding up?
@@johnnykurplutzo6789 It has held up great for over a year!
Yeh, I hope that by not wearing a mask, it didn't take too many years off your life. Concrete dust is bad. Thanks for the post
Yeah, me too; thanks for your concern.
I can't believe all of the snide critiques here. Too much testosterone for some of them. They might be right about safety precautions, but some were rude about it. At the same time, others did give a few alternatives that I'd consider.
I do have two questions for you:
1) Given the time that it takes to dry, if I have dogs, how can I protect the repaired area without them stepping on the sealant and making an indentation? Would it even matter as long as the crack is filled from the bottom up? I'm not worried about them licking the sealant because 90% of the time I go outside with them, but as I said, I wouldn't want them making paw prints on the sealant if it causes a problem.
2) The sealant that is above the flat concrete surface, does that need to be sanded down to make it even with the concrete driveway? Or is that something that doesn't need to be considered? If it's not a big deal, that's fine. I don't want to sand it smoothly if it's going to ruin the job.
I'll wait for your response before going to the hardware store.
Answer #1 many people recommend using sand to coat and protect from leaves or dirt from sticking as well as prevent smearing if stepped on. I prefer the smooth surface without but there is a concern of items sticking.
Answer #2 I would recommend finishing flush with the top of concrete or slightly below. It does not cure hard, more rubber like. I don’t suspect it would sand well. Hood luck on your project and thanks for watching!
“Sakrete” or “Pour rock”!!!!
Concrete cracks can’t be repaired permanently.... is just temporary...
Wrong way
I know, I should have gone left to right instead of right to left. There's always next time...
Tough time saying "sealant" there.
Wow...
Speak to you hindi.
What you say chutiya
That car in drive probly needed a wash...heeeee...
YOU DONT REPAIR CRACK…YOU SMOKE IT!!! Duh 😒
Silica is real bad. Put a damn mask on.
You are correct. Unfortunately, this video was filmed before OSHA implimented the Silica Standard. We now know Silica causes cancer and yes you should wear a mask. I plan to do a new video showing the proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). Let me know if there are any additional items that need to be addressed in an updated video.
@@ThriftyGarage I've been involved in OSHA training since 2006 and they were earning about it back then. Not trying to give you shit. Just blows my mind how bad that stuff is and we see it everyday, someone cutting, drilling, grinding some form of silica and no respirator.
Ear protection!
If I could have a dollar for every time I've heard that comment!
YOUNG MAN !
YOU ARE SO SMART😅! PLEASE SHOW YOUR AUDIENCE WHAT THEY SHOULD DO FIRST !
WHERE GOOD , PROPER,
FACE MASK PLEASE! EYE GEAR PLEASE! AND COVERING HANDS ,OR BODY WHEN NEEDED ?
THINKING OF YOU!
The finish was garbage.
Caulking concrete repairs is useless and expensive... There are much better options and cheaper too!
Can you expound on what options are cheaper and better?
@@ThriftyGarage Fiber reinforced cement, dirt cheap and will last longer than caulking.
Interesting, I will have to look into it for my next project. How does it withstand the freeze thaw cycles and seasonal expansion and contraction of concrete?
@@ThriftyGarage haha well... it doesn't, just a yearly thing to do, but for the price of 2 tubes of caulking you can buy a 25kg (around 55 lbs) of material which will last you a looooooong time ;)
Not a good work man. He needs education.
Education or experience?
You may have wasted your time & money.🐒
It keeps the leaves and debris out of the crack and looks nicer than it did before. Well worth the investment IMO.
DAP. Whata joke. DAP is crap!
What is better?
And the moon light makes it glow at night. Awful looking repair!
Its better than it was... why not nust give tips on how to do it better since you must be a professional.