I had a machining issue on a set of 4.3 Vortec heads recently. When they machined the head and drilled the holes/eyelits for the pushrods ONE of the cutters cut close to .060 off the outside of the port wall. I don't own a sonic checker, as luck would have it as im trying to port match with my snap gauge I get the dreaded wtf!!! Nice little oval hole... :( Thanks to your videos I was able to both hone the push rod hole, cut down a bronze bushing creating a tight press fit Into the PR hole; we also used the JB Weld as a safe gaurd. The bushing sealed the hole perfectly! !! Since this engine is a boosted 15-24# 600hp 4.3 v6 I wanted to guarantee no leaks. Thanks for your video!
How can you tube the exhaust side? The exhaust temps far exceed the JB Weld you use to seal the tubes! Is there another much higher temp epoxy that can be used on the exhaust side?
HeadFlowInc I'm working on a set of Performer RPM heads for the Pontiac V8, they look like a prime candidate for exhaust side tubing of the head bolt holes. All the exhaust ports have huge bumps/bosses in the port....
HeadFlowInc The Epoxy is JUST to fill in any VOIDS, and act like a PRESS FIT of sorts. What holds that in is the PRESS FIT, which is MUCH more Harder on the exhaust side. Get a load of this, I use BRASS on the side as well (Heat Treated Brass) Thin Wall because NONE of the 4130 Chrome Molly Tubes are THIN enough to allow the Head Bolt Hole enough "WIGGLE" room! Remember this, the block is BLIND in the bolt holes, and when you put the Head-bolts in (the washers underneath the bolt holes LOCK any SPENT gasses that MIGHT-AND I say MIGHT try to escape) there is no way anything can go anywhere. One time on a set of the OLD 460 Ford Alan Root Heads Cobra Jet Heads, He wanted to use Studs (this was in 1994 in Nashville, and the guys fastest time WAS 7.52 in the eighth, and after My heads and Intake Manifold "RAISED RUNNER EPOXY" went 5.79!!!) and I had NO CHOICE but to use Thin Wall NON-HEAT Treated and he sprayed N2O, and it burned a little HOLE in the Tube (it burned to the point where it became Aluminum and STOPPED). He ran the car over three years before taring the heads apart when he noticed the burned hole and called me up raising hell. We took the heads apart, and looked down the TUBE and noticed that the only area was the area in direct path of the Spent Gasses. Since the other areas where 100% intact I told him to just "RUN IT", which he listened to me and he had NO PROBLEMS and ran it another 5 years before blowing the bottom end (RODS CAME APART). I lost track of him over the years, and I herd he died some time back, but that was the most intense deal During the 1990's I dealt with. He PUSHED a 3600 lb BRICK (1971 Ford Mustang) through the traps at 5.79. I would LIKE to take credit for my heads taking over 2 seconds off the time; however, After the first 3 runs and it slowed down to 7.88 (I do believe) and him blaming me for the loss of power, we found out after I insisted he run a leak-down test before I was going to give him his money back in full, he had over 20% leak on 6 of the 8 cylinders and 2 cylinders had over 25% Leak!!! When I helped him (stood by him as HE took the engine apart, a local machine shop had honed the cylinders TO DEATH over many years as the guy was a cheap/scape and would NOT get a new block (he did not want to spend the money building another block); he then installed 8 Chrome Molly Sleeves from LA Sleeve, which allowed him to get a 4.450 (I am pretty sure that was the size, or maybe even 4.500 out of a 460 Ford, which cost him over $800.00 for the sleeves alone and over 1000.00 for machine work to save the fucking block, and any Ford guy out there knows the problem with the 460 Block and the TOP of of the block deck being too thin and giving distortion problems). He could have bought a dam SVO block at that time, which is the BOMB in the BIG 460/812 CID builds. Sorry I rambled on so on this, I just have BAD thoughts on that deal, and finally he FULLY apologized and gave me credit (some of it NOT DESERVED as 4.500 BORE on a set of 2.300 Valves I am sure SUCKED the PORTS dry in that head. DAM, I got that off of me after all these years, and he NEVER talked to me after that, I lost a good customer, and what was going to become a friend AFTER I Helped him on all that and DID NOT earn a penny for all that work on the block "JUST TO SAVE MY NAME LOCALLY" THANKS YOU-TUBE VIEWERS, for letting me talking about that deal.
Not too important, as you see the rag under the head does plenty fine, combined with the natural weight of the head VS. Drill speed. Remember that the bit is a Decimal (O.D.) bit that is at least .002 undersize, which is why I then take a sand roll to get that PERFECT crush-tube fit.
Before spending (wasting) ALL that time trying to move an EXHAUST port (good lord) you might want to 1- build, 2- Dyno 3- Test the port the way it is. We LEARNED all this nonsense years ago. Chevy guys all trying to "fix" the Ford exhaust....when you USE the Big Block FORD's Advantage (4.9 Bore) the way it is intended....you WILL NEVER waste your time doing this stuff again...... 1- GO BIG BIG BIG on the bore. 2- Put a huge intake valve. 3- Squeeze it!!! YOU will make HUGE HP! and Guess what? No really guess what? You will never ever ever touch the exhaust port again.... Clean it, raise it, match it....that's all. We make more HP / Cu in than ANY other IRON or aluminum headed conventional Conventional angle BB anywhere.....and we NEVER touch the exhaust port ever.
Yea, sounds like you really got the exhaust port figured out guy, MAYBE!!! Thing is Marc, when we played this everything from the "PLATES", welding them to a raised runner deal and loading the floor with BRASS (A.K.A. Bill Elliott style" (I guess Bill Elliott's all time record setting NASCAR head) was not worth doing either right? MAYBE on the stock iron head I could see the fact (1. build, 2. DYNO. 3. TESTED, and the one mode of "TUBES" on Flow bench yielded 18 CFM with just that one mod, - BUT I KNOW YOU KNEW THAT). And when running on the Clayton 2500 HP dyno with a 3 foot absorption unit NOT USING AN ACCELERATION LOAD, showed a 22 HP gain as the stock on the iron head was at a less than 52% intake to exhaust ration (the intake was just cleaned up and the stock ones were that bad). I just cannot believe what you just said up there about "PUT a HUGE intake valve" on a already FUCKED UP intake to exhaust ratio". I will pass this on to my readers and post this mess, I think most of them (even people who don't even own a FORD engine they race with) will agree with me in saying "FUBAR" on you, and I just wish I would send this to Bill Elliot (actually Ernie Elliot) for him to laugh at.
I had a machining issue on a set of 4.3 Vortec heads recently. When they machined the head and drilled the holes/eyelits for the pushrods ONE of the cutters cut close to .060 off the outside of the port wall. I don't own a sonic checker, as luck would have it as im trying to port match with my snap gauge I get the dreaded wtf!!! Nice little oval hole... :(
Thanks to your videos I was able to both hone the push rod hole, cut down a bronze bushing creating a tight press fit Into the PR hole; we also used the JB Weld as a safe gaurd. The bushing sealed the hole perfectly! !! Since this engine is a boosted 15-24# 600hp 4.3 v6 I wanted to guarantee no leaks. Thanks for your video!
awesome job
How can you tube the exhaust side? The exhaust temps far exceed the JB Weld you use to seal the tubes! Is there another much higher temp epoxy that can be used on the exhaust side?
HeadFlowInc I'm working on a set of Performer RPM heads for the Pontiac V8, they look like a prime candidate for exhaust side tubing of the head bolt holes. All the exhaust ports have huge bumps/bosses in the port....
HeadFlowInc The Epoxy is JUST to fill in any VOIDS, and act like a PRESS FIT of sorts. What holds that in is the PRESS FIT, which is MUCH more Harder on the exhaust side. Get a load of this, I use BRASS on the side as well (Heat Treated Brass) Thin Wall because NONE of the 4130 Chrome Molly Tubes are THIN enough to allow the Head Bolt Hole enough "WIGGLE" room! Remember this, the block is BLIND in the bolt holes, and when you put the Head-bolts in (the washers underneath the bolt holes LOCK any SPENT gasses that MIGHT-AND I say MIGHT try to escape) there is no way anything can go anywhere. One time on a set of the OLD 460 Ford Alan Root Heads Cobra Jet Heads, He wanted to use Studs (this was in 1994 in Nashville, and the guys fastest time WAS 7.52 in the eighth, and after My heads and Intake Manifold "RAISED RUNNER EPOXY" went 5.79!!!) and I had NO CHOICE but to use Thin Wall NON-HEAT Treated and he sprayed N2O, and it burned a little HOLE in the Tube (it burned to the point where it became Aluminum and STOPPED). He ran the car over three years before taring the heads apart when he noticed the burned hole and called me up raising hell. We took the heads apart, and looked down the TUBE and noticed that the only area was the area in direct path of the Spent Gasses. Since the other areas where 100% intact I told him to just "RUN IT", which he listened to me and he had NO PROBLEMS and ran it another 5 years before blowing the bottom end (RODS CAME APART). I lost track of him over the years, and I herd he died some time back, but that was the most intense deal During the 1990's I dealt with. He PUSHED a 3600 lb BRICK (1971 Ford Mustang) through the traps at 5.79. I would LIKE to take credit for my heads taking over 2 seconds off the time; however, After the first 3 runs and it slowed down to 7.88 (I do believe) and him blaming me for the loss of power, we found out after I insisted he run a leak-down test before I was going to give him his money back in full, he had over 20% leak on 6 of the 8 cylinders and 2 cylinders had over 25% Leak!!! When I helped him (stood by him as HE took the engine apart, a local machine shop had honed the cylinders TO DEATH over many years as the guy was a cheap/scape and would NOT get a new block (he did not want to spend the money building another block); he then installed 8 Chrome Molly Sleeves from LA Sleeve, which allowed him to get a 4.450 (I am pretty sure that was the size, or maybe even 4.500 out of a 460 Ford, which cost him over $800.00 for the sleeves alone and over 1000.00 for machine work to save the fucking block, and any Ford guy out there knows the problem with the 460 Block and the TOP of of the block deck being too thin and giving distortion problems). He could have bought a dam SVO block at that time, which is the BOMB in the BIG 460/812 CID builds.
Sorry I rambled on so on this, I just have BAD thoughts on that deal, and finally he FULLY apologized and gave me credit (some of it NOT DESERVED as 4.500 BORE on a set of 2.300 Valves I am sure SUCKED the PORTS dry in that head. DAM, I got that off of me after all these years, and he NEVER talked to me after that, I lost a good customer, and what was going to become a friend AFTER I Helped him on all that and DID NOT earn a penny for all that work on the block "JUST TO SAVE MY NAME LOCALLY"
THANKS YOU-TUBE VIEWERS, for letting me talking about that deal.
Shouldn't the head be clamped down?
Not too important, as you see the rag under the head does plenty fine, combined with the natural weight of the head VS. Drill speed. Remember that the bit is a Decimal (O.D.) bit that is at least .002 undersize, which is why I then take a sand roll to get that PERFECT crush-tube fit.
Before spending (wasting) ALL that time trying to move an EXHAUST port (good lord) you might want to 1- build, 2- Dyno 3- Test the port the way it is. We LEARNED all this nonsense years ago. Chevy guys all trying to "fix" the Ford exhaust....when you USE the Big Block FORD's Advantage (4.9 Bore) the way it is intended....you WILL NEVER waste your time doing this stuff again...... 1- GO BIG BIG BIG on the bore. 2- Put a huge intake valve. 3- Squeeze it!!! YOU will make HUGE HP! and Guess what? No really guess what? You will never ever ever touch the exhaust port again.... Clean it, raise it, match it....that's all. We make more HP / Cu in than ANY other IRON or aluminum headed conventional Conventional angle BB anywhere.....and we NEVER touch the exhaust port ever.
Yea, sounds like you really got the exhaust port figured out guy, MAYBE!!! Thing is Marc, when we played this everything from the "PLATES", welding them to a raised runner deal and loading the floor with BRASS (A.K.A. Bill Elliott style" (I guess Bill Elliott's all time record setting NASCAR head) was not worth doing either right? MAYBE on the stock iron head I could see the fact (1. build, 2. DYNO. 3. TESTED, and the one mode of "TUBES" on Flow bench yielded 18 CFM with just that one mod, - BUT I KNOW YOU KNEW THAT). And when running on the Clayton 2500 HP dyno with a 3 foot absorption unit NOT USING AN ACCELERATION LOAD, showed a 22 HP gain as the stock on the iron head was at a less than 52% intake to exhaust ration (the intake was just cleaned up and the stock ones were that bad). I just cannot believe what you just said up there about "PUT a HUGE intake valve" on a already FUCKED UP intake to exhaust ratio". I will pass this on to my readers and post this mess, I think most of them (even people who don't even own a FORD engine they race with) will agree with me in saying "FUBAR" on you, and I just wish I would send this to Bill Elliot (actually Ernie Elliot) for him to laugh at.