It all starts with a good frame and geo, and sorry to say, this is the wrong frame and geo for what you need. Don’t over work this frame, salvage what you can and get a more appropriate geo
Use tokens on the Rear shock. What you need is low air pressure while faster progression. So lower the volume with spacers. If it is still not enough you can also use a shimstack tuning😅 if Cost is no issue I mean.
I cat wait till this Chanel blows up, it’s only a matter of time with these great quality videos. You’ll be at 100k any day now, keep up the good work evan
9:41 stiff suspension is actually what you want for jumps. It’s more predictable and doesn’t absorb as much of your energy when boosting a lip and pumping. Just look at bikes optimized for jumps- minimal travel and super stiff spring rates.
@@Gsityoass well, you bounce and go over the bars, slam your head backwards onto the ground, loose stability due to a bump, etc. It all depends on how high/low you have your rebound and how you jump/go thorugh different corners, etc. Plenty of variables. You can get away with some tunes in certain places and in others you don't. Your skill level matters too obviously
Most of the problems you’re having comes from wanting enduro like performance out of what’s basically an upgraded xc bike. All the money in the world won’t make a 115mm travel bike feel like a 140/160
I ride an SB115 currently and I got the bike super dialed in. 1st try installing a larger volume spacer in rear shock to make it a more progressive. 2nd, I added the slacker 1.7 to give the bike a little more rake and now absolutely love how the bike handles. I have pics I can share of this setup if you like but it turns this frame into a trail beast!
Totally agree here! I had my gears services at the shop, and they said it was just an older frame, and it probably wouldn't shift that well with the new 11sp deore that I'd put on it. So I just rode it shifting kinda ok, but a bit like a potato. Then I finally bit to bullet and got a derailleur hanger aligner tool... Spent several hours learning to use it properly....and holy crap it just TRANSFORMED the shifting. One click, one shift. Every. Single. Time. Can't stress how good this is to get the very best results from your shifting.
@@andycjohnston i might have to get one. I have always tuned the shifter by sight and it always works okay, but it's never that sequential-like snappy response you can get. The one time i got on a really well tuned bike my mind exploded with the wildly fast shifting. The bike i have now was from a pro so it is well tuned now, but i will cry the day that i need to swap the cable because it might not be the same again.
@@Ferrari255GTO I've only been learning for about 6mths, and what I'd say is absolutely you need one. I just got a basic Chinese one. You don't need a Park Tool here for sure. The other thing is to try...but to not have that high an expectations about getting it perfect first time. You probably won't. I know it took me a few tries. I was frustrated, and I had to take it to the shop once too (because I wanted to ride it) But eventually you'll be really proud of yourself. It sounds silly with such a simple thing, but I know I am. What the bike shop can do in less than 30 minutes, sure it might take me 2hrs. But at the end of it I feel like it's a better job. Better because of the level of care and attention that went into it. Good luck, and definitely get that alignment tool!
@@Ferrari255GTO yeah, I think perfection is more what I was talking about too. Like getting that extra 10% in quality shifting can make a huge difference right? (that's what takes me the time)
Okay, now that was some good writing. I knew from the start Chad was just Evan in a different get up, but writing it so Chad was just a figment of Evans consumerist mind was absolutely genius.
@@dylan-5287 It's not! It's Evan trying to steal away Chad's new found fame. Of course, he says this while Chad is away. I expected more from Evan. Very disappointed.
With the BB tool added to the arsenal, it's clear from the build montage that it's not just the bikes getting more legit. Great work taking on all the shop skills to make this series work - Shop tour soon?
I think the SB130 would have been the better frame choice for your riding style. Better geometry and more capable for your intentions. Love the chanel, keep doing what you do!
agreed 100%. i just purchased a norco optic because i needed a short travel bike to be the counterpart to my norco range, which is essentially a dh bike, and it has done that super well. I ride quite hard so having a bike that was was super progressive was important to me and even hitting 8-9 foot drops, it only just starts to hit bottom out on the optic and it turns it into an impact that I can handle as well as one the frame and shock can handle. the sb130 wouldn't been a better choice for him
I agree, My SB130 would have soaked up those moderate drops and jumps no problem. It shines in just that terrain. I think the SB115 is a bit under biked for what he rides.
Definitely wouldve went with the 130 if you were looking for an all around bike to throw around. The 115 shouldve just stayed as the 100 because the 100 made a lot more sense.
But that way you cant sell the frame to a buyers seeking trail bikes. And SB130 they advertise as a "mini-enduro" whatever that means. Marketing + nice paint does miracles.
I get the sense Evan really likes the short travel trail/down country style bikes. All just preferences. I think 140mm/150mm is the ultimate do it all style.
@@dylan-5287 the problem with the SB115 in my opinion is the geometry, there are plenty of 115/120R-130F bikes with much better geo for a much better price, Yeti seems to really only do great on their bigger bikes
@@dylan-5287 they make a few bikes that i wouldnt mind having but theyve kinda gone the same way as Santa Cruz, constantly finding an excuse to raise prices and not really having much to show for it. I ride a Santa Cruz right now and it’ll probably be the last one for a while
Evan-- I've been following your saga since the beginning and am impressed with how far you've come with the channel and your MTB acumen. This YETI is a "fruit of your labor"! Keep up the good work. I wish you continued success with the channel! -- A loyal subscriber
You had a new subscriber at the beginning of this series but this episode reminded me why. So much thought into each episode. From production value to shots and story telling. The recognition of chad being a representation/commentary of consumerism inside us all was so apt and thoughtful Aside from more air, probably more tokens. Also, $15k bike and rubber band Garmin mount? 🤔
That 'confronting chad' moment. Freaking hell man I love your channel for the effort you put in. I won't ever have the kind of money where I'd feel comfortable with a four thousand dollar *frame* but.... man.
Volume spacers. They can be 3D printed if hard to find/expensive. I heard you can even put thick layer of grease behind bottom out O-ring (and shim) to further reduce volume, after fitting biggest volume spacer (if there's not enough progressivity).
If you go with 3d printed volume spacers make sure you use a high quality print and printer. If you use a poor print you could end up with abs shavings in your air spring
Binging your channel. Great content, love how you mix it up, and you're relatable to a lot of riders. As much as I love watching Bernard Kerr and Matt Jones, they're in another league than all of us, so it's cool seeing someone closer to the average rider ... And that's no slight on your skill level. Seth is relatable too, and he's a great rider.
Thanks for building the bike for all you watch. I've never seen such an expensive bike and was amazed at the precision of the parts. I will probably never see another bike like that again
you should check out MTB Savant's video on the Yeti sb100, he recommended using a special Slackr Headset which can adjust the headset angle by 1.8 degrees. You could have the best most expensive gear in the world, but none of it means anything if the setup isnt dialed, super cool seeing the process. probably the realest mtb channel on youtube. Keep up the great work Evan!!
Hi Evan, I saw the problem with your shock and I would recommend adding a volume spacer. Volume spacers add progression to the shock, and progression makes it so the shock is supple at first in its travel, but firm as it compresses. Give that a try.
For the harsh bottom out: 1. Use some volume spacers/reducers on the rear shock and make some testing until find the proper pressure. 2. Dial the compression damper with some clicks of HSC and LSC. 3. Custom tune on the shock. 4. Custom shock 5. Custom suspension tune with a suspension specialist/engineer. If you reach the Custom suspension tune with the engineer and it still don't feel good I do not know what to recommend. Great video and serie.
I honestly love your videos. Your character is brilliant and very likeable , your content is amazing - I always look forward to when one of your videos drop and you’re editing is top notch. Bravo. I can easily see you becoming as big as channels like Berm Peak. It might be time to give up that day job soon! One thing I always question though is… how does your wife allow this?! 🤯. She must be a really supportive partner and have faith in what you’re building here on RUclips! Keep up the great work Evan!
Hey Elliot, I didn't get to respond cuz I was at work yesterday. But your comment really was the best comment I could get. Thank you so much, and tomorrow is my last full time week at my job! Going down to part time and increase the pace of RUclips production (new video tomorrow!)
You need to increase the progression of the rear shock. I don't know how to do it in fox shock, in rockshox you can add a negative megneg chamber and special bands inside. Also the number of bands allows you to change the progression a bit. This changes the volume of the negative chamber and increases the progressiveness. The second option is to add tokens to the chamber to reduce its volume
Megneg does not increase progression. It allows for more range of tuning for mid-stroke support and makes the initial stroke more sensitive. Reducing the air volume of the positive chamber will increase progression. With zero bands in a megneg it’s even possible to get a more linear progression curve more akin to a coil shock.
4:06 hey evan! you get much more consistent with the bends when you push the DAG rather than pull. I have never snapped one while pushing only pulling. have a good one!
try to adding some volume spacers to the shock and fork, it will make it ramp up towards the end of the travel and not bottom out + you can keep your normal pressures to keep to high bump sensitivity.
I agree with some of the other comments. I purchased the SB130 for the extra travel to handle the jumps on the single track trails I have in my area. Volume spacers and a proper tune should clean it up, however if jumping remains an issue, a new rear shock may be an order. As far as Yeti is concerned- it’s by far the best climbing bike I’ve ridden. It also absorbs chunky DH very nicely. It is true what they say- the faster you go, the more capable the bike is. You’ll get it done up nice I’m sure. Keep putting out great content bro!
@@EvansMTBSaga no I actually haven’t experienced that, it seems dumb telling you this as your like a pro bike mechanic but check the lower lincage, I feel like I also had to tighten that, also it’s a sick bike but I think you’re a bit under biked lol, with all the drops and stuff your sending I think you need a sb140 or even 150 depending on how how much travel you want, my friend has a 140 and it pedals really good and is great for jobs and even park days!
Great using a hanger gauge. But move the wheel with it to account for a potentially out of true wheel. And another note. Sram chains should be fitted at the point where the rear wheel is further at from the bike not full compression. It will be slightly to short now (not much of a problem on a bike with the rear wheel path as vertical as this but there you go)
I saw it in one of the prior videos as well and I think there definitely something up with your rear shock setup, probably a lack of air pressure issue. Although, it could also be something internal if the air is setup propper. Been here since like the beginning and I'm happy to see you grow! Keep it up!
@@EvansMTBSaga never seen oil come out an air chamber before. I know my Monarch does have a few ml of oil in there for the shaft but it's never escaped. That might well be damper oil 😬
@@cornishcactus i have air come out of my positive air chamber all of the time. oil coats the shock and when you let air out you are letting out the oil that was next to the air port.
As others have mentioned, Volume Spacers are the answer to the shock performance. I added one or two to my Fox 34 fork and put in a bigger spacer in my Fox Float DPS shock last week, and yesterday's ride was *noticably* more fun and smoother. (I also lowered the air pressure in both a bit to make a bit more squish in the beginning of the travel)
Been hear since the begining 1k subs and the shwin Axum dp when you couldn't say derailer properly or work on one. Amazing progress in just 1y with the bike skills and video production values. Great job Evan you deserve all the success in the 🌍 💯k subscribers here you come you seem a top bloke who anyone would 💜 as a friend. 👍🌟🥳🏅👊👏
That really made it LOOK like a high quality bike... I don't know what it is about that polygon frame but even with the highest quality parts it still looked like a budget bike
lol! love the creativity and artificial drama you insert. Also your willingness to drop BIG bucks to see if the price is really worth it. I dont feel like there is any other MTB youtuber out there doing this. Way to carve out a nice niche for yourself mate. Keep it up. Its corny but I love it!
if you want a bike that is soft and doesnt bottom out you need to buy progressive frames for example you have 2 frames with 150 mm travel right one of them has a 190x50 shock while the other frame has 220x59 the one with 220 shock is much more progressive you can use munch lower psi with those and dont bottom out i learned this from a popular dh urban rider called tg from turkey and its really true i tried 2 frames with diferrent shock lenghts with same shocks and man it is a differrence -Love From Turkey
The answer is YES, if you have owned a Yeti, you know what I am talking about. Except for my PYGA slakline, my yeti was my favourite bike ever. Also the Yeti will be able to take anything you can throw at it, I have a friend who is ex Dh racer and he used to hit HUGE gaps on his sb115.
Get a Works Components angled headset that will slacken the head tube by 2 degrees or so and get some volume spacers for the rear shock. You'll be good to go
You can add more pressure without getting bucked, you just need to slow down the rebound as you do. A volume spacer will do you a lot of good to hone it in. My stumpy Evo bottomed out until I added a spacer, not it's perfect.
The revelation that you and Chad are the same person was priceless. I always wanted a Yeti but even back in the day, late 80's they were still out of reach......
Put a angle adjust headset on it to slacken the headtube angle and since you’ve alr spent so much may aswell go and get the ext coil rebuilt to put on the bike and make it a little more rowdy
I think even when you add volumes spacers to the shock, ultimately you are still only working with 115mm travel so there are just going to be limitations on absorbing impacts from drops and huck to flats.
If you need a more aggressive headtube angle Yeti allows you to run up to 150mm of travel on the SB115. I believe the fox 34 can only go to 140mm, but personally that's the most I'd go for increasing travel anyway. Increasing travel on the front fork increases the axle to crown length on the front fork which raises the front of the bike and slackens the headtube angle, as well it raises the bottom bracket. Also you're complaint on the rear feeling stiff while also bottoming out hard was the same complaint I had about my Yeti SB140. Yeti designs their bikes to be more like a race bike there fore it runs stiff. What I found out is best is to run the fork stiff enough to match the rears progression and to charge harder on the trail. I have found that running stiffer suspension allows you to maintain control better when charging hard on trails as your bike rides higher in the travel, (This is also why Pro EWS and DH riders run their suspension super stiff) Sorry for the long read, and if you do try my suggestions let me know how it works out.👍
Well it's weird. Yeti suggests sag of 30% for Fox 34, but Fox recommends 15-20%. So I'm gonna go back to 18% sag like I had. But I'm also gonna rebuild the rear shock. I guess they make a slackening headset. I'll consider that too
the bottom out resistance was really bad with the stock Fox DPS. which was i why i swapped it out right out the box for a Rockshox Super Deluxe Ult. it completely changed it..
I don’t know how I feel about the progression of this series. I loved that you always stayed away from marketing hype and now you’re on a $15,000 yeti. It feels like you became that dentist friend who said anything under $4000 was rubbish. That’s just my opinion. I’m glad you’re doing what you enjoy so keep it up. Ps. Add a volume reducer
I think it's actually showing you don't need the $15k bike to be enjoying riding trails. The low bike is basically equal to the high bike and he's shown really good price to performance upgrades.
Although....maybe the notion of you get what you paid for is a costly lesson in with certain things...it is an expensive lesson learned that promotes the idea that you spend more money...you get higher quality... and yet does it really? I know that the other side says...it's the rider and not the bike. (Sam Pilgrim comes to mind...yet Danny McCaskill won't be able to do his trials on a kids tricycle either...) I'm not in the category of skills nor ability to pay for higher costing bikes... I'm still riding a broken headtube early 90's Rockhopper and am also wanting to know what to upgrade the Walgoose Ledge X1 with...and also wondering if it is worth putting lots of individual parts together or if it is better to just spend a bit more and have something confidence inspiring (and also competent)... I tend to see where others have spent a lot and have recommended whether it was money well spent or not....and for that....like you... I appreciate someone who rides similar to me and is willing to share what works and what doesn't. 😇💪🙏😎
You either need to add air tokens to the shock. Or you could put a coil shock on which might be easier to adjust with a heavier spring and more pre-lode. And especially if you want to jump, I would put a coil on it
@@EvansMTBSaga Is it because of the width of a coil, or the extra chamber. The 2023 Deluxe coil Select, doesn’t have the extra chamber and may be able to work on this frame
I have the same bike. Try a shock token in the rear. I'm 150-155lbs and I use the .8" token, which is the second from the biggest one, and ride with 160 psi in the shock. I beat on the bike hard and I get both no bottoming out and nice small bump compliance.
Very cool! I didn't video about adding a token and it's been good so far! Glad to hear the bike can take your abuse. Everyone calls me dumb for saying it's a step above an XC bike
@@EvansMTBSaga ok ill check that video out. Interesting point you made about the bottom bracket because my bike has been creaking and I went through the entire linkage and everything and the issue has persisted, so maybe I'll try the one piece bb and see what happens.
for short travel bike rockshox tend to have better proformance for long travel fox is the way so mabey go for one of the new rockshocks forks and shocks as there easy to set up and will probbly work a bit better on this tipe of bike would also reccomend getting a angled headset so you can have a slacker front end. also when letting air out of your suspenshon its best to use a shock pump still as you can damage parts if you just press on the valve
This series really nails that point that you can chase gear stats, but the real important thing is just get a bike that works and forget about it. UNLESS money is no object AND you are a sponsored team rider....
You should do a comparison to an actual pre built 15k bike too if that works out someway. To think that you could've easily bought a top specced Sworks enduro or pivot firebird xtr for the money is just kinda nuts. Though yeah the high bike definitely lost a lot of "budget" money by buying unneccessarily expensive things like the breaks & dropper post
I've actually had the exact same problem with my fox rear shock. Try buying a set of rear shock tokens for like thirty bucks. I didn't actually notice that big of a difference but you might have better luck than me.
I know, sell the frame for half now and get a 145... Carbon is bunk. Great vid tho bud, really making good stuff and apparently getting a lot of "coffee" love haha👍
The first 1,000 people to use the link or my code evansmtbsaga get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/evansmtbsaga05221
It all starts with a good frame and geo, and sorry to say, this is the wrong frame and geo for what you need.
Don’t over work this frame, salvage what you can and get a more appropriate geo
hi are you the one I talked to in the telegram
@@Onimaru003 bro its a scam i got the same message
Someones trying to pretent to be you on Telegram
@@SP-ss4uo yess it iss he cannot verify himself
Use tokens on the Rear shock. What you need is low air pressure while faster progression. So lower the volume with spacers. If it is still not enough you can also use a shimstack tuning😅 if Cost is no issue I mean.
On a Bike with only 115mm of rear wheel travel i think it's normal to have such harsh bottom outs.. but volume spacers will help 🙌
Maybe he can try to close a bit his highspeed compression, it should help
Yeah, he should read this
On a short travel bike it can often help to add ramp-up. But shimstack tuning is completely unrelated to that, although still an option of course.
@@julienmka9592 he has a dps no high speed, if he gets a nicer shock tho that could help
I cat wait till this Chanel blows up, it’s only a matter of time with these great quality videos. You’ll be at 100k any day now, keep up the good work evan
Yeah! Evan is growing like a weed! Hope he remembers the OG subscribers when he hits it big
Yeah
can't*
@@edmundwong2692 ;-;
Regardless of number of view(er)s, he likes spending money for bicycle parts. :D
9:41 stiff suspension is actually what you want for jumps. It’s more predictable and doesn’t absorb as much of your energy when boosting a lip and pumping. Just look at bikes optimized for jumps- minimal travel and super stiff spring rates.
Gotta be carefull with the rebound though
@@Gsityoass well, you bounce and go over the bars, slam your head backwards onto the ground, loose stability due to a bump, etc. It all depends on how high/low you have your rebound and how you jump/go thorugh different corners, etc. Plenty of variables. You can get away with some tunes in certain places and in others you don't. Your skill level matters too obviously
You are 100% correct. Nearly every single dirt jumper is a hardtail.
Most of the problems you’re having comes from wanting enduro like performance out of what’s basically an upgraded xc bike. All the money in the world won’t make a 115mm travel bike feel like a 140/160
I'm hoping that's not true, but I think you may be right
@@EvansMTBSaga he sadly is right
@@EvansMTBSaga someones pretending to be you and messaging us in the comments to go on Telegram.
Apparently I won a new carbon mtb😂
@@joegomes1352 Onyx Vespers
Pssssssst….sb130 Lunchride. You’re welcome.
I ride an SB115 currently and I got the bike super dialed in. 1st try installing a larger volume spacer in rear shock to make it a more progressive. 2nd, I added the slacker 1.7 to give the bike a little more rake and now absolutely love how the bike handles. I have pics I can share of this setup if you like but it turns this frame into a trail beast!
This.... Did the same thing to mine...
Just be careful the slacker voids warranty I had one on my arc. Kind of shitty that they void the warranty with this installed
@@tylerruecker7388 I mean just take it off before using the warranty
Ya for sure. When I bought my yeti frame it wasn’t a warranty exemption at the time. Just noticed the other day it was added
Nice detail using a Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge during the build process. This crucial step is unknown or skipped by so many.
Totally agree here! I had my gears services at the shop, and they said it was just an older frame, and it probably wouldn't shift that well with the new 11sp deore that I'd put on it. So I just rode it shifting kinda ok, but a bit like a potato.
Then I finally bit to bullet and got a derailleur hanger aligner tool... Spent several hours learning to use it properly....and holy crap it just TRANSFORMED the shifting.
One click, one shift. Every. Single. Time.
Can't stress how good this is to get the very best results from your shifting.
@@andycjohnston i might have to get one. I have always tuned the shifter by sight and it always works okay, but it's never that sequential-like snappy response you can get. The one time i got on a really well tuned bike my mind exploded with the wildly fast shifting. The bike i have now was from a pro so it is well tuned now, but i will cry the day that i need to swap the cable because it might not be the same again.
@@Ferrari255GTO I've only been learning for about 6mths, and what I'd say is absolutely you need one. I just got a basic Chinese one. You don't need a Park Tool here for sure.
The other thing is to try...but to not have that high an expectations about getting it perfect first time. You probably won't. I know it took me a few tries. I was frustrated, and I had to take it to the shop once too (because I wanted to ride it)
But eventually you'll be really proud of yourself. It sounds silly with such a simple thing, but I know I am.
What the bike shop can do in less than 30 minutes, sure it might take me 2hrs. But at the end of it I feel like it's a better job. Better because of the level of care and attention that went into it.
Good luck, and definitely get that alignment tool!
@@andycjohnston i mean, i always get them to work, just not perfect.
@@Ferrari255GTO yeah, I think perfection is more what I was talking about too. Like getting that extra 10% in quality shifting can make a huge difference right? (that's what takes me the time)
Okay, now that was some good writing. I knew from the start Chad was just Evan in a different get up, but writing it so Chad was just a figment of Evans consumerist mind was absolutely genius.
What are you talking about? Did you not see Chad wearing his blue shirt and backward-facing hat? 🤔 This isn't Fight Club! We've all seen Chad!
@@onlyonecannoli3952 did you watch the video?????
The hell?? Chad was Evan this whole time? He acted totally differently, I thought it was a cousin or something.
@@jacobg130productions Go look up the definitions for Irony, Sarcasm, and Humor...then get back to me.
@@dylan-5287 It's not! It's Evan trying to steal away Chad's new found fame. Of course, he says this while Chad is away. I expected more from Evan. Very disappointed.
This series has been so good
With the BB tool added to the arsenal, it's clear from the build montage that it's not just the bikes getting more legit. Great work taking on all the shop skills to make this series work - Shop tour soon?
I think the SB130 would have been the better frame choice for your riding style. Better geometry and more capable for your intentions.
Love the chanel, keep doing what you do!
agreed 100%. i just purchased a norco optic because i needed a short travel bike to be the counterpart to my norco range, which is essentially a dh bike, and it has done that super well. I ride quite hard so having a bike that was was super progressive was important to me and even hitting 8-9 foot drops, it only just starts to hit bottom out on the optic and it turns it into an impact that I can handle as well as one the frame and shock can handle. the sb130 wouldn't been a better choice for him
Yep, the 115 is way too short travel for his riding
I agree, My SB130 would have soaked up those moderate drops and jumps no problem. It shines in just that terrain. I think the SB115 is a bit under biked for what he rides.
Definitely wouldve went with the 130 if you were looking for an all around bike to throw around. The 115 shouldve just stayed as the 100 because the 100 made a lot more sense.
But that way you cant sell the frame to a buyers seeking trail bikes. And SB130 they advertise as a "mini-enduro" whatever that means. Marketing + nice paint does miracles.
I get the sense Evan really likes the short travel trail/down country style bikes. All just preferences. I think 140mm/150mm is the ultimate do it all style.
@@dylan-5287 the problem with the SB115 in my opinion is the geometry, there are plenty of 115/120R-130F bikes with much better geo for a much better price, Yeti seems to really only do great on their bigger bikes
@@chadb2077 ah interesting. Didn't even know they treated that bike differently. Yeti is a bit rich for my tastes lmao!
@@dylan-5287 they make a few bikes that i wouldnt mind having but theyve kinda gone the same way as Santa Cruz, constantly finding an excuse to raise prices and not really having much to show for it. I ride a Santa Cruz right now and it’ll probably be the last one for a while
Evan-- I've been following your saga since the beginning and am impressed with how far you've come with the channel and your MTB acumen. This YETI is a "fruit of your labor"! Keep up the good work. I wish you continued success with the channel! -- A loyal subscriber
You had a new subscriber at the beginning of this series but this episode reminded me why. So much thought into each episode. From production value to shots and story telling. The recognition of chad being a representation/commentary of consumerism inside us all was so apt and thoughtful
Aside from more air, probably more tokens. Also, $15k bike and rubber band Garmin mount? 🤔
That 'confronting chad' moment. Freaking hell man I love your channel for the effort you put in. I won't ever have the kind of money where I'd feel comfortable with a four thousand dollar *frame* but.... man.
Volume spacers. They can be 3D printed if hard to find/expensive. I heard you can even put thick layer of grease behind bottom out O-ring (and shim) to further reduce volume, after fitting biggest volume spacer (if there's not enough progressivity).
also, I think you can fine tune the infinite linkage!
If you go with 3d printed volume spacers make sure you use a high quality print and printer. If you use a poor print you could end up with abs shavings in your air spring
@@cameronrobertson9518 in theory, nothing should actually touch the volume spacer, so i dont think shavings would be a problem, but i agree
Binging your channel. Great content, love how you mix it up, and you're relatable to a lot of riders. As much as I love watching Bernard Kerr and Matt Jones, they're in another league than all of us, so it's cool seeing someone closer to the average rider ... And that's no slight on your skill level. Seth is relatable too, and he's a great rider.
Thanks for building the bike for all you watch. I've never seen such an expensive bike and was amazed at the precision of the parts. I will probably never see another bike like that again
This has become my fav channel thanks for making it great!!!!!!
Wow, thanks!
you should check out MTB Savant's video on the Yeti sb100, he recommended using a special Slackr Headset which can adjust the headset angle by 1.8 degrees.
You could have the best most expensive gear in the world, but none of it means anything if the setup isnt dialed, super cool seeing the process. probably the realest mtb channel on youtube. Keep up the great work Evan!!
I briefly saw that product on a Google search! I wonder if it slackens it enough to increase travel by 10mm
Hardtail Party made a video of him adding a Slackr headset on a Yeti Arc. You should also check that video out.
It’s crazy how much this channel has improved. I first discovered it during that specialized epic restoration.
Its a scam bro i got the same thing
Can’t believe this channel only have around 38K subs!!! Come on guys! The production quality is out the chart! 👌👌👌
I don't even own a mountain bike or do any sort of trail biking yet I'm suscribed and I watched the whole series because of the top notch production.
Hi Evan, I saw the problem with your shock and I would recommend adding a volume spacer. Volume spacers add progression to the shock, and progression makes it so the shock is supple at first in its travel, but firm as it compresses. Give that a try.
ALSO! LOVED the 80's music during the Yeti build montage t'was chef's kiss
For the harsh bottom out:
1. Use some volume spacers/reducers on the rear shock and make some testing until find the proper pressure.
2. Dial the compression damper with some clicks of HSC and LSC.
3. Custom tune on the shock.
4. Custom shock
5. Custom suspension tune with a suspension specialist/engineer.
If you reach the Custom suspension tune with the engineer and it still don't feel good I do not know what to recommend.
Great video and serie.
thank goodness you did this it was genuinely hurting to see those parts on that bike.
I love watching youtubers living my dream for some reason
good to see that evan is well informed, and gets his bottom bracket resources from a highly respected establishment.
I honestly love your videos. Your character is brilliant and very likeable , your content is amazing - I always look forward to when one of your videos drop and you’re editing is top notch. Bravo. I can easily see you becoming as big as channels like Berm Peak. It might be time to give up that day job soon!
One thing I always question though is… how does your wife allow this?! 🤯. She must be a really supportive partner and have faith in what you’re building here on RUclips! Keep up the great work Evan!
Hey Elliot, I didn't get to respond cuz I was at work yesterday. But your comment really was the best comment I could get. Thank you so much, and tomorrow is my last full time week at my job! Going down to part time and increase the pace of RUclips production (new video tomorrow!)
wow your channel just keep getting better every time I been follow you for along time now from the first 3 video and really enjoy it.
You need to increase the progression of the rear shock. I don't know how to do it in fox shock, in rockshox you can add a negative megneg chamber and special bands inside. Also the number of bands allows you to change the progression a bit. This changes the volume of the negative chamber and increases the progressiveness. The second option is to add tokens to the chamber to reduce its volume
Megneg does not increase progression. It allows for more range of tuning for mid-stroke support and makes the initial stroke more sensitive. Reducing the air volume of the positive chamber will increase progression. With zero bands in a megneg it’s even possible to get a more linear progression curve more akin to a coil shock.
Great video. This channel is gonna blow up.
Very swag! Crazy to think I used to talk about how great Walmart bikes are and now you are talking how 15,0000$ bikes are ok. I love it!
Get some volume spacers in that rear shock and it should be fine!
Great video, I really enjoy sitting down and watching your videos!
nice to see you went out to Hawes! Fun trails over there for sure!
4:06 hey evan! you get much more consistent with the bends when you push the DAG rather than pull. I have never snapped one while pushing only pulling. have a good one!
try to adding some volume spacers to the shock and fork, it will make it ramp up towards the end of the travel and not bottom out + you can keep your normal pressures to keep to high bump sensitivity.
I agree with some of the other comments. I purchased the SB130 for the extra travel to handle the jumps on the single track trails I have in my area. Volume spacers and a proper tune should clean it up, however if jumping remains an issue, a new rear shock may be an order.
As far as Yeti is concerned- it’s by far the best climbing bike I’ve ridden. It also absorbs chunky DH very nicely. It is true what they say- the faster you go, the more capable the bike is.
You’ll get it done up nice I’m sure. Keep putting out great content bro!
Brother when you name dropped Hambini I paused the video and gave you a round of applause. That is a man who likes a tight fit.
Stoked to see lots of sends in this episode Evan!
I finally found some decent jumps! Kinda far from my house though
lets go you finally got a yeti! i have a 165 and these things are some of the best bikes out there imo
Does your frame flex a lot? I feel like mine moves side to side if I push on the pedals
@@EvansMTBSaga no I actually haven’t experienced that, it seems dumb telling you this as your like a pro bike mechanic but check the lower lincage, I feel like I also had to tighten that, also it’s a sick bike but I think you’re a bit under biked lol, with all the drops and stuff your sending I think you need a sb140 or even 150 depending on how how much travel you want, my friend has a 140 and it pedals really good and is great for jobs and even park days!
Progression rings in the shock could resolve the bottoming out problem i think
Great using a hanger gauge. But move the wheel with it to account for a potentially out of true wheel. And another note. Sram chains should be fitted at the point where the rear wheel is further at from the bike not full compression. It will be slightly to short now (not much of a problem on a bike with the rear wheel path as vertical as this but there you go)
I saw it in one of the prior videos as well and I think there definitely something up with your rear shock setup, probably a lack of air pressure issue. Although, it could also be something internal if the air is setup propper. Been here since like the beginning and I'm happy to see you grow! Keep it up!
The Yeti came with its own Fox shock, but yeah I think there's something wrong with it
@@EvansMTBSaga never seen oil come out an air chamber before. I know my Monarch does have a few ml of oil in there for the shaft but it's never escaped.
That might well be damper oil 😬
@@cornishcactus i have air come out of my positive air chamber all of the time. oil coats the shock and when you let air out you are letting out the oil that was next to the air port.
you are truly amazing !
keep up the good work evan!
sooo stoked for you! You YETI dentist!!
As others have mentioned, Volume Spacers are the answer to the shock performance. I added one or two to my Fox 34 fork and put in a bigger spacer in my Fox Float DPS shock last week, and yesterday's ride was *noticably* more fun and smoother.
(I also lowered the air pressure in both a bit to make a bit more squish in the beginning of the travel)
Been hear since the begining 1k subs and the shwin Axum dp when you couldn't say derailer properly or work on one.
Amazing progress in just 1y with the bike skills and video production values.
Great job Evan you deserve all the success in the 🌍 💯k subscribers here you come you seem a top bloke who anyone would 💜 as a friend. 👍🌟🥳🏅👊👏
Yesss! Yeti! My favourite bike brand!
Volume spacers in the rear shock make it more progressive.
That really made it LOOK like a high quality bike... I don't know what it is about that polygon frame but even with the highest quality parts it still looked like a budget bike
Even without the bike fully set up, you were still doing some sick tables and whips!
Buy a Nine Point Eight angle set for IS41, it's called Slack-R. You can get down to close to 65° if you want
lol! love the creativity and artificial drama you insert. Also your willingness to drop BIG bucks to see if the price is really worth it. I dont feel like there is any other MTB youtuber out there doing this. Way to carve out a nice niche for yourself mate. Keep it up. Its corny but I love it!
if you want a bike that is soft and doesnt bottom out you need to buy progressive frames for example you have 2 frames with 150 mm travel right one of them has a 190x50 shock while the other frame has 220x59 the one with 220 shock is much more progressive you can use munch lower psi with those and dont bottom out i learned this from a popular dh urban rider called tg from turkey and its really true i tried 2 frames with diferrent shock lenghts with same shocks and man it is a differrence
-Love From Turkey
I agree with others that more travel would be beneficial for the type of riding you are doing and the trails here in Phoenix.
Nice video man . Keep going
maan i love this channel always spend in things that no everyone
Evan throw some volume spacers into the shock!!! It’ll make the bottom out resistance higher
Loves your videos !!!!! Keep it going
Hope to see you get a specialized stuntjumper evo one day
The answer is YES, if you have owned a Yeti, you know what I am talking about. Except for my PYGA slakline, my yeti was my favourite bike ever. Also the Yeti will be able to take anything you can throw at it, I have a friend who is ex Dh racer and he used to hit HUGE gaps on his sb115.
Get a Works Components angled headset that will slacken the head tube by 2 degrees or so and get some volume spacers for the rear shock. You'll be good to go
i love your vids you are so under rated
You should try out an oval chainring
Add volume spacers to the rear shock.
You can add more pressure without getting bucked, you just need to slow down the rebound as you do. A volume spacer will do you a lot of good to hone it in. My stumpy Evo bottomed out until I added a spacer, not it's perfect.
The revelation that you and Chad are the same person was priceless. I always wanted a Yeti but even back in the day, late 80's they were still out of reach......
great video!! one suggestion... watch some videos on how to properly oil a chain
Everyone has a different opinion on how to oil a chain
You can use tokens in the rear shock to increse progressivity
add a volume spacer thing for front and rear they work very well. i have it and it stop it from bottoming out in certain parts of trail
7:47 Fastest T-shirt change I've seen.
Good catch! I regularly go back and redo talking scenes to drive the point home and avoid sounding boring
This is the best mtb channel
I like your videos men, keep doing that
Put a angle adjust headset on it to slacken the headtube angle and since you’ve alr spent so much may aswell go and get the ext coil rebuilt to put on the bike and make it a little more rowdy
Get a speacilized stuntjumper frame, best one out there for sure
I think even when you add volumes spacers to the shock, ultimately you are still only working with 115mm travel so there are just going to be limitations on absorbing impacts from drops and huck to flats.
If you need a more aggressive headtube angle Yeti allows you to run up to 150mm of travel on the SB115. I believe the fox 34 can only go to 140mm, but personally that's the most I'd go for increasing travel anyway. Increasing travel on the front fork increases the axle to crown length on the front fork which raises the front of the bike and slackens the headtube angle, as well it raises the bottom bracket. Also you're complaint on the rear feeling stiff while also bottoming out hard was the same complaint I had about my Yeti SB140. Yeti designs their bikes to be more like a race bike there fore it runs stiff. What I found out is best is to run the fork stiff enough to match the rears progression and to charge harder on the trail. I have found that running stiffer suspension allows you to maintain control better when charging hard on trails as your bike rides higher in the travel, (This is also why Pro EWS and DH riders run their suspension super stiff) Sorry for the long read, and if you do try my suggestions let me know how it works out.👍
Well it's weird. Yeti suggests sag of 30% for Fox 34, but Fox recommends 15-20%. So I'm gonna go back to 18% sag like I had. But I'm also gonna rebuild the rear shock. I guess they make a slackening headset. I'll consider that too
a Volume spacer should fix your issues
the bottom out resistance was really bad with the stock Fox DPS. which was i why i swapped it out right out the box for a Rockshox Super Deluxe Ult. it completely changed it..
I don’t know how I feel about the progression of this series. I loved that you always stayed away from marketing hype and now you’re on a $15,000 yeti. It feels like you became that dentist friend who said anything under $4000 was rubbish. That’s just my opinion. I’m glad you’re doing what you enjoy so keep it up. Ps. Add a volume reducer
I think it's actually showing you don't need the $15k bike to be enjoying riding trails. The low bike is basically equal to the high bike and he's shown really good price to performance upgrades.
Although....maybe the notion of you get what you paid for is a costly lesson in with certain things...it is an expensive lesson learned that promotes the idea that you spend more money...you get higher quality... and yet does it really? I know that the other side says...it's the rider and not the bike. (Sam Pilgrim comes to mind...yet Danny McCaskill won't be able to do his trials on a kids tricycle either...)
I'm not in the category of skills nor ability to pay for higher costing bikes... I'm still riding a broken headtube early 90's Rockhopper and am also wanting to know what to upgrade the Walgoose Ledge X1 with...and also wondering if it is worth putting lots of individual parts together or if it is better to just spend a bit more and have something confidence inspiring (and also competent)...
I tend to see where others have spent a lot and have recommended whether it was money well spent or not....and for that....like you... I appreciate someone who rides similar to me and is willing to share what works and what doesn't.
😇💪🙏😎
Get the Quarq Shockwiz and some shock and fork tokens to dial in your suspension.
I think you should tune up your low and high speed compression for the rear shock and same with rebound
You either need to add air tokens to the shock. Or you could put a coil shock on which might be easier to adjust with a heavier spring and more pre-lode. And especially if you want to jump, I would put a coil on it
Yeti says it can't have a coil because of the shock clearance 😢
@@EvansMTBSaga Is it because of the width of a coil, or the extra chamber. The 2023 Deluxe coil Select, doesn’t have the extra chamber and may be able to work on this frame
Im pretty shure that Sound of the bottom out were the forks. Even if the shock bottomed out it doesnt make such a loud noise.
It's for sure the rear and the tire is contacting the frame too ☠️
@@EvansMTBSaga are you running the shock that came with the Yeti frame?
@@EvansMTBSaga The rear tire touches the frame on bottom out? Are you 100% sure that's the right eye to eye and stroke length shock?
It's the shock that came with the frame
I have the same bike. Try a shock token in the rear. I'm 150-155lbs and I use the .8" token, which is the second from the biggest one, and ride with 160 psi in the shock. I beat on the bike hard and I get both no bottoming out and nice small bump compliance.
Very cool! I didn't video about adding a token and it's been good so far! Glad to hear the bike can take your abuse. Everyone calls me dumb for saying it's a step above an XC bike
@@EvansMTBSaga ok ill check that video out. Interesting point you made about the bottom bracket because my bike has been creaking and I went through the entire linkage and everything and the issue has persisted, so maybe I'll try the one piece bb and see what happens.
Upgrade the bike with a straight handlebar, and use tokens on the rear shock as well!
Add a volume spacer In the shock and order one of those angle headsets and make it 66* degrees and should be perfect
Volume spacers will help a lot.
Put more spacers over the handle bars and cut them down. Add a bigger volume spacer in the back and run less pressure.
Thanks man! I hope it works out. I'll do your recommendations and post a video about it in a week
You need at different shock tune from the factory for that frame, that frame requires different stroke characteristics than the polygon.
It came with its own Fox shock 😲. So now I have two lol
for short travel bike rockshox tend to have better proformance for long travel fox is the way so mabey go for one of the new rockshocks forks and shocks as there easy to set up and will probbly work a bit better on this tipe of bike would also reccomend getting a angled headset so you can have a slacker front end. also when letting air out of your suspenshon its best to use a shock pump still as you can damage parts if you just press on the valve
add progression to the shock with volume spacers
Love that 80s montage music 🎶
This series really nails that point that you can chase gear stats, but the real important thing is just get a bike that works and forget about it. UNLESS money is no object AND you are a sponsored team rider....
You should do a comparison to an actual pre built 15k bike too if that works out someway. To think that you could've easily bought a top specced Sworks enduro or pivot firebird xtr for the money is just kinda nuts. Though yeah the high bike definitely lost a lot of "budget" money by buying unneccessarily expensive things like the breaks & dropper post
Blue increases speed by 10% it swag performance
I've actually had the exact same problem with my fox rear shock. Try buying a set of rear shock tokens for like thirty bucks. I didn't actually notice that big of a difference but you might have better luck than me.
I know, sell the frame for half now and get a 145... Carbon is bunk. Great vid tho bud, really making good stuff and apparently getting a lot of "coffee" love haha👍