Tibor, you must provide them some nutrients but not so much. They need to starve but not at the point to collapse. This tank is running well for 16 months and not just a few days 😉
I have a 55 gal, no Co2. Two generic 53 watt leds. On 10 hours a day. PH 6.6 - 6.8. When planting a new plant. I plant them in the corner where i will add a mirror to the side and right next to the backside of the tank add a high flowing airstone. The leaves tend to reach for the airstone while growing and the extra angle of light somehow seems to bleed red or even purples into the leafs. After about 3 weeks I move them to a looser substrate that's already been fertilized by a root tab previously anywhere in the tank with no problems. Might dose with liquid fertilizer once a month after just because but that's about it. Thank you for the extra tips!
I was watching the videos from the Bulgarian guys, specifically the video with Dave Chow, and daaaaaamn a Portuguese guy?! Ok let me check out what is he doing, cause I'm Portuguese too, and don't see many people talking about aquascaping in Portugal.. And I just found out you have a RUclips Channel. I'm already a fan of your work !! Great tips!
Temos alguma malta em Portugal a fazer aquascaping ao mais alto nível, mas essencialmente para concursos. Não existe assim grande informação ou videos, pelo menos que tenha conhecimento. Espero que gostes do conteúdo.
Awesome video tips on Red plant! I always enjoy your video & easy to understand English spoken. What my concern here is if plants under *Intense light for long, will Algae start to boom as well.... that's the question I always wanted to ask. Thanks again mate, take care.
If you keep a lean fertilization routine, there is less space for growing algae. Of course you should not starve your plants so much, people tend to like to see their plants bleeding (extreme vibrant red) and plants might collapse.
Amazing🙏 Felipe este teu vídeo do início ao fim com uma partilha de conhecimentos tão sábios e fulcrais. Para quem segue a tua carreira atentamente é um orgulho ter um Português neste nível e que nos ensina diariamente com este entusiasmo e paixão que a todos nos motiva para evoluirmos. Obrigado de coração!
Obrigado Sérgio. Tento que os vídeos sejam directos para toda a gente possa perceber, um pouco à imagem do que se passa nos workshops... Improvisando sem uso de guião. Quanto mais natural, melhor. Espero que tenhas gostado. 👍
@@sergiopereira3242 online certo? Porque pelo que percebi, na loja apenas estarmos nós mais uma pessoa que irá orientar os planos do evento ao vídeo e colocar as questões do pessoal.
Filipe Oliveira Online claro 😂, que venha o futuro para podermos todos estar a aproveitar ao vivo de novo com outra valorização desses mesmos momentos 🙏💪
Thank you so much for the very genuine advice. I would implement them soon in my tank in which i was not getting so much reds mainly due to my fertz regime which i was dosing every alternate day..now i would reduce it..keep up the good work..you are a blessing for our hobby world Sir 😊
THIS is the high quality content I subscribed for to watch! First time in a while I've learned something from an aquascaping youtube video. If your production quality was like Green Aqua, I bet you would surpass them in suscribers within a year!
Thanks mate but they have a team working on the production... I need to do everything by myself. I'm OK with that, different content and different approach.. If someone can get something from my videos, I'm happy. 😉
@@FAAOAquascaping I prefer your approach, I like Greenaqua too, but their videos seem too professional and I think a bit alienating. But they are still good.
Thank you for this!!! Red plants add so much beauty and I'm learning all that I can so one day I can put all this to good use! I'm running a low-tech aquarium right now.. and I have some red plants for now.. but I know as time goes on I will need to take special care to assure that they keep their beautiful color. I'm collecting plants for a future build and I'm hoping that I can include CO2 to it! I always appreciate your expertise. And love your aquascapes!! Hope you stay safe as well and I hope you have an amazing day!♥️🐟🌱🌿!!
Hi Mary, the most important is to know how to grow them, then you can go for color. In a low tech you can try Ludwigia palustris or Ludwigia Mini Super Red, they get amazing reds from nothing. The idea is just to starve them a bit, they will stay longer under the light and get amazing colors. It's like being in a diet 😅 Wish you a good weekend. Stay safe and best wishes.
Your videos are simple, yet classy. Your knowledge is sound & your presentation is genuine. It's always nice to know who is behind the aquascape creations, in my honest opinion. And I like what I see. Ok, I'm going to hit the subscribe button now, Mr. Oliveira... 👍👍
@@FAAOAquascaping You're welcome, Mr. Oliveira. If I may say so myself, indeed your simplicity & genuine approach can be seen in your aquascapes... 😊👍 In fact, being a fan of the 'jungle' style of aquascaping, I admire your approach to a jungle-themed layout. Your aquascape looks lush i.e. each species intertwines with each other but in an orderly manner instead of looking unkept or too wild. So, I've been studying your videos. To learn about suitable combination of species, as well as hardscape placement. Great techniques! Thank you for the kind tips, Mr. Oliveira.
Amazing content. Thank you so much for sharing this priceless information with us. You are a very humble person who doesn't want to go alone on this beautiful aquascaping field. Again; Thank you so much!
That's the point of doing videos. The more are succeed, the better. This is just part of something that you can have when you come to my workshops. I don't scape with my mouth shut, however some would wish because I talk too much 🤣
I've seen planted tanks with amazing red colours, however, from what I have seen, the tanks are being starved of Nitrogen to produce those red colours specifically for pictures and videos. How can you keep a tank with that low level of Nitrogen for a long period of time? Surely this is detrimental to the plants, as Nitrogen is important?! It's impossible to get my levels that low, as my tap water has 60ppm of Nitrate. A very informative video. :-)
If your tap water has 60ppm of nitrates I wouldn't use it in large water changes but just like some refills time to time. That would save me some money on fertilizers. You can keep low levels of nitrogen in a tank, just be sure you provide some time to time for plants don't collapse. Then if you use root tabs, if they don't get it in one way, they will get it from the soil, low amounts while they don't get feed on the water, it's simple. 😉
sr what ??? 60ppm of no3 in your water , it very bad , in aquatic , just need 5-20 ppm No3 is enough for tree and fish My aqua is 10ppm-15ppm for tank full pinto and some echinodourus 09
Love your content filipe! Any tip to achieve more coloration un buces? Beside all the tips in this video. Cheers from Argentina, love your scapes man, in the future I will try to replicate the aquaflora one but en mini version of it, the one with have all the stems in the middle behind the woods and ferns
Thanks Alberto, the way to achieve more colouration is exactly the same for all plants... To get more color they need to receive intense light, however people tend to use them in shadow areas to avoid getting algae due to its slow growth.
If your Buce don’t show that much colour they’re not in optimal growing conditions (adequate light, CO2 and nutrients), they don’t have underwater growth, or they’re not a variety that develops colours. In addition to this using RGB LEDs with strong reds and blues or blue and red fluorescent bulbs will reveal better colours.
Vídeo muito elucidativo! Desde sempre fui mais virado para o breeding, em especial de ciclideos africanos... mas mais recentemente iniciei-me no hobby de aquascaping e estes vídeos têm sido ouro puro. Um obrigado pelo bom conteúdo, e claro, os meus parabéns a um dos melhores aquascapers a nível mundial.
💚 Français Anglais Thank you very much for this video. I am looking for advice because I have a twinstar 600 s brand lighting bar. I would like to know up to what intensity of the lamp to operate it. currently the lighting is on for 6 hours a day with a maximum of 80% of the capacity. this model is known to help the red coloring of plants precisely but so far I find mine still too dull. thank you in advance and again well done and in all the videos
It depends of the soil used and plant's mass. I use my Twinstar for about 10h/day and 8h at 100%. But if you are facing issues, the better is to reduce the light intensity but keeping it t least for 7/8h day.
thank you alot sir... appreciate and respect you more... indeed!!! i always love you guys not being personal about knowledge... sharing is caring though... love it...
Thanks Cristian. That is one of the reasons why I keep doing videos. Most of them are just to answer a lot of questions placed weekly, in this way I think will be much easier for everyone to understand.
Hi Filipe,im sure i benefited alot from you video and you have help alot in providing honest informations. I have always wanting to know how to change the colours of some plants to red or near to red.well its all trail and error,im sure this method will work for me n viewers.. well thank you stay safe signing of Nick. ( another awesome video ) 😀👍
Hi Nick, it's not difficult... It's indeed much easier than most of people think but then they will end up to do mistakes when dose daily. Plants must starve!!!
Hello Filipe, very informative Video and a beautiful tank! Which phosphate level do you recommend? My tap water has a phosphate level up to 3,0 mg/l. Thanks. Stay safe.
Yes, I currently have Rotala Macrandra Mini Type 4, Rotala H'Ra, Rotala Colorata, Ludwigia Palustris, Ludwigia Mini Super Red, Cabomba Piauhyensis, Ammannia Crassicaulis and Persicaria sp. "Sao Paulo" spread over multiple tanks.
Hi Filipe. Great video as always. In my aquarium 70 litres of the flexible pipe in glass of aspitazione with the skimmer. It does not aspire well from the skimmer and I do not know if it is a powerful filter (Askoll Pratiko 200) or if it is because it is not a good brand. Can you recommend an offshoot of the glass with skimmer, good for your job? I saw in your video that you have one that seems to work very well. Thank you.
Hi Roberto, I don't know that brand... The better way to get a proper surface skimming is to add an eheim surface skimmer, just put it in a timer to work 5 to 15 minutes every hour and the surface will be clean.
Felipe, your tips worth gold. is there any chance of an online workshop or even a group of students online? I would be grateful to be your student and pay a monthly fee.
Light is definitely the most important thing. It's the source of life and photosynthesis. Without good light will be difficult to achieve amazing results, but it can be done with cheaper ones... I did it in the past but takes so much to get it.
Ciao Felipe! I really hope you are getting well. As for the red plants, I’ve a mid-high white led lamp. Do you think i need necessarily an RGB lamp, or the white one (8500K) could be suitable for Ludwigia Repens and Rotala? Thank you in advance!!!
RGB will enhance the visual coloration, it applies to plants and fish. But plants in general will get coloration anyway if light is powerful enough and if the fertilization routine is balanced. Of course colors will not be so intense, but completely achievable. Have in mind few years ago we didn't have RGB and most of tube lights were, white (warm, daylight and cold white) then combined with purple and blue.
@@FAAOAquascaping Glad to read that!! Thank you so much! And thank you for your previous advices, I’m conducting an algae-free tank for more than 1 year. 🤗 Un abbraccio
Great video as usual! Side question, how do you find keeping pea puffer with the other fish? Any issues. I’m tempted to try but a bit nervous as I don’t have a backup tank
They are very peaceful with other fish. No problems at all with them and I have used them in different tanks and with different livestock as well... So far no problems at all!
Im using Tropica Fertilizers. Is it good to use the specialised one while growing the plants, and than after the trimming when I need those red colours I will use premium? It doesnt contain any nitrogen, so I need to dose some or it will be good?
I'm not the right guy to talk about those fertilizers because I never used them. But check the composition of each one and try to adapt to what I have explained in the video. I'm sure will work, because I use blended fertilizers too in the Netherlands and the results are good!
Hey Filipe, I'm desperate to save my plants, new tank (now on 6th day been doing daily changes), with invitro plants (TC). Using ADA amazonia. I know it leeches tons of ammonia so I'm doing daily water changes 50%, unfortunately didn't find the research on pre-cycling tank before planting, so now I'm trying to save them. Would you recommend any of the following or another solution you may have: 1. x2 daily water changes once in morning once in evening 2. doubling down on stabiliy/nutrafin cycle to create even more healthy bacteria to kill ammonia 3. taking them out of the tank, not sure where I can store them 4. adding iron or micronutrients 5. stop ammo (haven't heard much apparently neutralizes ammonia). I'm praying to the plant gods LOL.
Massive daily water changes. You’ll get through this! The biggest issue with fresh ADA soil is the algae bloom you’ll soon encounter, the plants wont really mind the ammonia otherwise. (Livestock shouldn’t be in tank at this point). Just do huge water changes daily and if algae persists skip a day of light (as needed) until things are back in order.
@@maniniscapes1936 cheers, for now for sure no livestock just want these plants to live :( I have faith in all my green plants, but my altertherna reneickii mini are turning white still a bit of red in middle portion. Bear in mind ammonia is reading 8.0ppm everytime before I've been doing water changes. Haven't gotten an Algae yet on day 6 now. Thoughts on any of the solutions above? thanks
The issue between invitro plants and ADA amazonia is the ammonia... In Vitro plants hate it and since ADA Amazonia leaches lots of ammonia, plants will struggle. Try do do daily water changes 50% if you can to try to lower it... I have used other soils and I never had this issue... It's just the damn ammonia!
@@FAAOAquascaping Thanks for fast response. They should call it ADA ammonia haha but I just didn't realize it would reach alarming levels to the point in would hurt my plants. I really did my due diligence, and now following daily water changes to a "T". Would be disappointing for my plants to die, I invested so much as I wanted to plant heavily in beginning. The cycling method you proposed is def. the solution if I had to go back in time (disappointing they don't advertise it much as it's a pro tip). Well looks like for now only water changes would help? Do you recommend any added micronutrients or more co2 to boost? I'm running co2 right now but just wondering if increasing will give them a lifeline.
CO2 is always welcome, will always help. What didn't die yet will survive. Don't stress if plants don't look so well, they usually recover very fast as soon the parameters are perfect to thrive. Just have some patience, keep the water changes and after 2 weeks it should be OK 😉 For example, potted plants love ADA aquasoil... They grow like mad! It seems we can't get the best of two worlds...
My rotala hra and colorata arent colouring well ,they are completely green, ive been trying for awhile now. Im not sure why as my light is quite intense, i think my ferts are good and i have a good amount of co2. Im worried about increasing the light intensity or duration as i have some issues with green dust algae and diatoms. I have also started using remineralized RO water. Im quite disappointed with the health of the plants in general. Any advice?
Intense light will cause green hair algae in case of unbalance and not diatoms or green dust. Green dust is caused by excess of liquid fertilization and this is why your plants don't get color.
Filipe Oliveira ok I’ll start to dose less. I think it’s also my ADA soil and root tabs which are increasing nitrogen. I’ll also recharge my purigen as it’s almost depleted, my 100ml of purigen is depleted after only 2 months of use and my tank is only 70L I think this shows lots of organics.
I never used those lights... So I can't answer to your question. But you can give a try a lean a fertilization routine and see how it goes for you. Since I have seen some guys complaining about not getting reds from an ADA solar RGB, I can assure you that fertilization is definitely the key and not just the light 😉
Hey Filipe, In the beginning you mention the sunburn. I am wondering if too intense of light can kill certain plants? For example, I have some Staurogyne sp. Bihar planted on a terrace, it’s a beautiful plant that resembles pinnatifida, and is mostly green but gets purple under intense light. I am starting to get some purple but also the leaves are turning reddish then melting and dying... could my light be to intense? My rotala is also curling over and won’t grow as tall as I’d like.
Hi Grant, it seems you have another problem. Your tank might be facing magnesium and calcium issues. When leafs getting curly is lack of calcium and when plant is pale, very weak and tend to die is indeed magnesium issues. Just be sure you have them in the water! Light is not an issue, when it's really intense plants tend to grow towards the soil and some start do spread all over it...
Filipe Oliveira interesting! Thank you, the staurogen is in water just the leaves are getting red then melting but the stem is really healthy. The rotala is super healthy and red but the stem starts to bend sideways then down like 3/4 the way up then shoots out Ariel roots. I will start by upping my trace elements a little bit
If it bends, we call it creeping (moving down due to very intense light) and that also promotes horizontal growth. Just eh melting is a bit weird... It shouldn't happen.
Ive watched this video about 10 times. Im trying to get all my rotala hra and coloratas red but it seems that only the ones that i trimmed and stuck amongst the other stems but not in the substrate turn red. The stems in the substrate are green and grow with quite rounded leaves. I am dosing only 2.8 PPM nitrate a week ,my lights are strong and are on for 6hrs and i have co2. Should i start dosing 0 nitrates? Also does phosphate and potassium impact it?
Just increase the photoperiod to 8h and dose less nitrogen. Do one thing at time and not both... Try to increase the photoperiod first and then if doesn't work, reduce a bit the dose of nitrogen.
it is said that to make rotala red is using soft water and low nitrate level, is it still possible that we use lime stone like seiryu that hardens the water and still have rotala flamming red (assuming that i have low no3, high light) ?
Not really, hard water is still better for them because they will grow even slower and more thick because they have plenty of calcium and magnesium. Just be sure the general and carbonate hardness aren't higher than 15°
Hi, I've been struggling with red plants since I started trying to get them to work. I use chihiros RGB 60 and it's at 50% intensity with the red being slightly more intense. I also dose 1ml of seachem flourish with 2ml seachem potassium during water changes which are done once a week. My total hra lost all of its leaves and started growing green leaves at its top but the roots didn't grow even after 3 months.My experience with ludwigia sp red which is now is that the plants seem to be turning more green than red at the tops. My substrate is tropica. What do you recommend I should do?
Very helpful video Filipe. I'm dosing 2.5ml twice a week of Nitrogen on my two week old 63liter tank, but some plants that used to be red a getting green. Should I reduce it to 2.5ml once a week? Or should I go lower?
Hi Josue, I don't know the concentration of the fertiliser that you are using... 2,5ml can increase the levels to 20ppm for example... Try just 2.5ml once a week and evaluate how the plants react.
I can be wrong because I never used a fluval light, but by just looking to it and see some reviews, I would say that you need two fluval to have the same power of one Twinstar.
Is the red coloration linked to water column levels/foliar absorption of nitrogen?. Won't the substrate availability affect it? I mean either way aren't they getting the required nitrogen. Or is it through foliar absorption can they absorb larger concentration but through roots only lesser quantity? Is it because of that?
Hi Rinu, It was explained in the video... And you still have the other one about my fertilization routine. But anyway, any macro element is absorbed in high amounts and fast by radial absorption of the leafs. When they don't have nutrients in the water, they will try to get them by the roots. This is why it's important to have a rich based soil and provide low amounts of liquid fertilization, plants will grow slower and with more color and volume.
im a noob to keeping plants in my aquarium, i have been watching youtube to learn more about this. i have seen a few where they mention that weekly water changes to help the plants grow better or faster. but they dont explain why. if my water parameters are good why is it necessary to do a 50% change? i have been using liquid fertilizer to nourish the plants as well as root tabs when i change the water it seems like i would be losing some of that liquid fertilizer.right? what am i missing? anyone? anyone?
The most important to grow plants is a good and quality light. Then you can speed up their metabolism by adding CO2. Partial water changes of 50% are good to balance the nutrients, remove excess and replenish some nutrients in case you use tap water. Check the video I did about my liquid fertilization routine, you will understand a bit more why
I have 30 min ramp for sunrise and sunset, then moderate light (50%) for one hour and then 9h at almost full power. Too much light but I have it for one reason, some customers need to have light over their tanks for longer and I need to know how to fight that. Don't exceed 8h day, it's more than enough... More than that you will might get in trouble.
Sometimes we have some dead spots in the soil, that bacteria issue will cause plants to rot. Usually that spot smells really bad. But rot is different of melted leaves, because plant will die afterwards leaving an empty area, plants get lose from the soil. If you have used in vitro plants with ADA aquasoil Amazonia and since the soil leaches a bit more ammonia than others, some invitro plants suffer a bit, this is why some people usually cycle the tank with water and lights off for 2 weeks before planting.
Hi, Very informative and interesting video... it's very much helpful...But i have a question...Along with red plants I do have Ferns and Anubias..How they can tolerate intense light? They are getting burned... Do we have any solution for this...
No issues with ferns... I have them too in my tanks, plus Anubias and Bucephalandras... Just be sure you place the Anubias and Bucephalandras in some shadow areas, ferns they will deal with it. 😉 Ferns don't 'burn' just be sure you don't dose excel over them...
@@FAAOAquascaping Thank you so much for your prompt response. It's really helpful... Every week 25% water is necessary? I wanted to share some pics of my tanks with you. So you can guide me if you don't mind
Diatoms and staghorn aren't related to lean or heavy dose of fertilization... They are more related to silicates or fresh new aquascapes. Some biological issues can cause staghorn as well, but as soon the bacteria fixation is good again, they will be gone.
Isso não existe, têm de ser adicionadas uma a uma depois de previamente alteradas do original criado automaticamente pelo RUclips. Depois é necessário traduzir cada linguagem (o Google translator não funciona se for um texto longo) e adicionar mais uma vez individualmente no RUclips. Para adicionar as legendas adicionais, preciso de um dia de trabalho e isso é coisa que não tenho. Se alguém quiser contribuir posso passar as legendas geradas automaticamente e depois adiciono no RUclips...
Hello, Filipe Great tank and very interesting content. I would really like to try your way of fertilization. .: Week 1 :. Monday: 5ml K Wednesday: 2ml Fe + 5ml K Friday: 5ml K Saturday: Partial water change 20-50% .: Week 2 :. Monday: 5ml K Wednesday: 2ml NO3 + 3ml PO4 Friday: 5ml K Saturday: Partial water change 20-50% Can you tell me in ppm what amount of microelements NPK you trying to have (What you add and what you have in your tap water)? On one of your video, You said weekly nitrogen 10ppm max. I sow in one of the comments that 20ppm of Potassium is more than enough. So what I should try to have in the tank?
I just dose 5 to 10 ppm weekly or every two weeks of nitrogen. In my tap water values are lower than 5, this is why I don't dose after water changes. I let plants take what they get from tap and afterwards I dose just a small amount (5ppm) if I did water change in that week or 10ppm if I do partial water changes every two weeks. Micro elements just the recommended dose once a week and Potassium around 20ppm week, doesn't matter if I did or not water changes that week, I dose always Potassium 3x a week to reach that value. If course this is only possible if we use a rich soil. Plants mus have something in the roots to stay healthy.
Michael Wong It starts from the substrate where there is low flow. If you can stop it there it won’t cover the plants or hardscape. Often light hitting the sides of tanks can start growing Cyanobacteria, so block the light at the substrate level.
El mundo de acuarismo te extraña maestro, que descanses en paz ❤
Oooh I was waiting for this for a long time! Red plants on the way! 💖
Simple and great explanation. Can we maintain the red plants for a long time, is it safe for the plants?
It sounds easy and it's easy indeed! Just don't overfeed your plants and color will come so easily.
Tibor, you must provide them some nutrients but not so much. They need to starve but not at the point to collapse. This tank is running well for 16 months and not just a few days 😉
Excellent video with a lot of usable details. Keep up the good work. Thanks a lot!!!
Rest in peace. ❤ ❤
RIP Brother 😔
Everything this guy says is gold!
My wife doesn't agree with you 🤣🤣
Filipe Oliveira 😂😂😂
Another master class, thanks Filipe.
Obrigado António! 👍
Já chego deixando o like porque sei que o conteúdo é de qualidade!!
Obrigado Alex 👍
Obrigado, Felipe!
i did watch lots of videos about red plant, but nobody explain so well, it is really helpful.. thank you
Such a brilliant video as always. One of the World's greatest aquascapers.
Thanks Errol. 😉👍
Filipe you are a master 😉.
Gracias Lorenzo 👍
Thanks for sharing this Felipe!
👍
Awesome. Thanks for advices Filipe
Thanks mate 👍
I have a 55 gal, no Co2. Two generic 53 watt leds. On 10 hours a day. PH 6.6 - 6.8. When planting a new plant. I plant them in the corner where i will add a mirror to the side and right next to the backside of the tank add a high flowing airstone. The leaves tend to reach for the airstone while growing and the extra angle of light somehow seems to bleed red or even purples into the leafs. After about 3 weeks I move them to a looser substrate that's already been fertilized by a root tab previously anywhere in the tank with no problems. Might dose with liquid fertilizer once a month after just because but that's about it. Thank you for the extra tips!
Very good explanation.. thank you sir
Always nice to hear you man, nice tips as always and lovely tank
Thanks mate👍
Love you teachings....💛💛💛💛
Good!!! I always try to be more simple as possible and genuine. This is usually what I explain on my workshops.
I hope you have enjoyed
@@FAAOAquascaping yes!!! I have really enjoyed your videos on workshop. Keep inspiring us...
Hi Filipe, thank you for the detailed presentation, lots of great info mate. I’ll use this great video for a reference & share it.
I hope it works for you!! 👍
amazing educational session Filipe. Many are lucky to have access to such rich information. Thanks for sharing and stay safe!
Thanks Shawn! Take good care of yourself 👍
Thanks Mr. Felipe!
Nice information. Thankyou sir
I was watching the videos from the Bulgarian guys, specifically the video with Dave Chow, and daaaaaamn a Portuguese guy?! Ok let me check out what is he doing, cause I'm Portuguese too, and don't see many people talking about aquascaping in Portugal.. And I just found out you have a RUclips Channel. I'm already a fan of your work !!
Great tips!
Temos alguma malta em Portugal a fazer aquascaping ao mais alto nível, mas essencialmente para concursos.
Não existe assim grande informação ou videos, pelo menos que tenha conhecimento.
Espero que gostes do conteúdo.
Nice video sir
Awesome video tips on Red plant! I always enjoy your video & easy to understand English spoken. What my concern here is if plants under *Intense light for long, will Algae start to boom as well.... that's the question I always wanted to ask.
Thanks again mate, take care.
If you keep a lean fertilization routine, there is less space for growing algae.
Of course you should not starve your plants so much, people tend to like to see their plants bleeding (extreme vibrant red) and plants might collapse.
Love your video.
nice video ..good genuine information..
Amazing🙏 Felipe este teu vídeo do início ao fim com uma partilha de conhecimentos tão sábios e fulcrais. Para quem segue a tua carreira atentamente é um orgulho ter um Português neste nível e que nos ensina diariamente com este entusiasmo e paixão que a todos nos motiva para evoluirmos. Obrigado de coração!
Obrigado Sérgio. Tento que os vídeos sejam directos para toda a gente possa perceber, um pouco à imagem do que se passa nos workshops... Improvisando sem uso de guião. Quanto mais natural, melhor. Espero que tenhas gostado. 👍
Filipe Oliveira A aguardar por dia 26 - lá estarei a acompanhar-vos 💪🧐
@@sergiopereira3242 online certo? Porque pelo que percebi, na loja apenas estarmos nós mais uma pessoa que irá orientar os planos do evento ao vídeo e colocar as questões do pessoal.
Filipe Oliveira Online claro 😂, que venha o futuro para podermos todos estar a aproveitar ao vivo de novo com outra valorização desses mesmos momentos 🙏💪
Very informative. Thanks
👍
Thank you so much for the very genuine advice. I would implement them soon in my tank in which i was not getting so much reds mainly due to my fertz regime which i was dosing every alternate day..now i would reduce it..keep up the good work..you are a blessing for our hobby world Sir 😊
Just try to dose less. Plants need to starve, if they don't do it will be difficult to get lush reds.
@@FAAOAquascaping yes thank you so much for putting it in the most simplest of words 💕💕
THIS is the high quality content I subscribed for to watch! First time in a while I've learned something from an aquascaping youtube video. If your production quality was like Green Aqua, I bet you would surpass them in suscribers within a year!
Thanks mate but they have a team working on the production... I need to do everything by myself.
I'm OK with that, different content and different approach.. If someone can get something from my videos, I'm happy. 😉
@@FAAOAquascaping I prefer your approach, I like Greenaqua too, but their videos seem too professional and I think a bit alienating. But they are still good.
Great video. Thank you for sharing your wisdom.
Thank you 😉👍
Thanks for the detailed explanation, I knew many professionals don’t share these informations, once again thanks lot, 👏🏻🙏🏽
Thank you for this!!! Red plants add so much beauty and I'm learning all that I can so one day I can put all this to good use! I'm running a low-tech aquarium right now.. and I have some red plants for now.. but I know as time goes on I will need to take special care to assure that they keep their beautiful color. I'm collecting plants for a future build and I'm hoping that I can include CO2 to it! I always appreciate your expertise. And love your aquascapes!! Hope you stay safe as well and I hope you have an amazing day!♥️🐟🌱🌿!!
Hi Mary, the most important is to know how to grow them, then you can go for color. In a low tech you can try Ludwigia palustris or Ludwigia Mini Super Red, they get amazing reds from nothing.
The idea is just to starve them a bit, they will stay longer under the light and get amazing colors. It's like being in a diet 😅
Wish you a good weekend. Stay safe and best wishes.
@@FAAOAquascaping thank you so much!!! I really appreciate the information very much!!!!👍♥️🐟🌿🌱
Amacing as always!!! Lest make fire in that stem plants!!! 🌿🔥
Just after I get the fight against algae done 😉
@@FAAOAquascaping good luck in battle!!! 🤗💪🏻
@@sublimation_x they are almost gone... 😉
Your videos are simple, yet classy. Your knowledge is sound & your presentation is genuine. It's always nice to know who is behind the aquascape creations, in my honest opinion. And I like what I see. Ok, I'm going to hit the subscribe button now, Mr. Oliveira... 👍👍
Thanks Saufi. I always try to be very simple and genuine.
I don't prepare my videos... We have a theme, let's talk about it.
@@FAAOAquascaping You're welcome, Mr. Oliveira. If I may say so myself, indeed your simplicity & genuine approach can be seen in your aquascapes... 😊👍
In fact, being a fan of the 'jungle' style of aquascaping, I admire your approach to a jungle-themed layout. Your aquascape looks lush i.e. each species intertwines with each other but in an orderly manner instead of looking unkept or too wild. So, I've been studying your videos. To learn about suitable combination of species, as well as hardscape placement. Great techniques! Thank you for the kind tips, Mr. Oliveira.
Assim vale a pena perder um tempinho para ver estes vídeos. 👌 Um grande abraço
Obrigado Cajo.
Thanksfor sharing this video sir..
👍
Amazing content. Thank you so much for sharing this priceless information with us. You are a very humble person who doesn't want to go alone on this beautiful aquascaping field. Again; Thank you so much!
That's the point of doing videos. The more are succeed, the better.
This is just part of something that you can have when you come to my workshops. I don't scape with my mouth shut, however some would wish because I talk too much 🤣
@@FAAOAquascaping You are the best entertainer in aquascaping, please keep it up ;)
Great information 🙂👍🏻
😉 Hope will be useful 👍
well said my friend
Thanks Alexander 👍
very interesting! I will try it with my rotalas! thanks for this great video greetings from Paraguay
Another very useful video, thank u 🙏
👍
I've seen planted tanks with amazing red colours, however, from what I have seen, the tanks are being starved of Nitrogen to produce those red colours specifically for pictures and videos. How can you keep a tank with that low level of Nitrogen for a long period of time? Surely this is detrimental to the plants, as Nitrogen is important?! It's impossible to get my levels that low, as my tap water has 60ppm of Nitrate.
A very informative video. :-)
If your tap water has 60ppm of nitrates I wouldn't use it in large water changes but just like some refills time to time. That would save me some money on fertilizers.
You can keep low levels of nitrogen in a tank, just be sure you provide some time to time for plants don't collapse. Then if you use root tabs, if they don't get it in one way, they will get it from the soil, low amounts while they don't get feed on the water, it's simple. 😉
sr what ???
60ppm of no3 in your water , it very bad , in aquatic , just need 5-20 ppm No3 is enough for tree and fish
My aqua is 10ppm-15ppm for tank full pinto and some echinodourus 09
thanks for the knowdlege Felipe greetings from México
Cheers guys!!! I love Mexico 👍
thx for nice video
Muchas gracias por el video Filipe! buenos consejos como siempre! moito obrigado!
Thank you so much!
Obrigado por mais essa aula!
Obrigado Grabiel. 👍
Very beautiful😉✨
Thank you 👍
Love your content filipe! Any tip to achieve more coloration un buces? Beside all the tips in this video. Cheers from Argentina, love your scapes man, in the future I will try to replicate the aquaflora one but en mini version of it, the one with have all the stems in the middle behind the woods and ferns
Thanks Alberto, the way to achieve more colouration is exactly the same for all plants... To get more color they need to receive intense light, however people tend to use them in shadow areas to avoid getting algae due to its slow growth.
If your Buce don’t show that much colour they’re not in optimal growing conditions (adequate light, CO2 and nutrients), they don’t have underwater growth, or they’re not a variety that develops colours. In addition to this using RGB LEDs with strong reds and blues or blue and red fluorescent bulbs will reveal better colours.
great tutorial
Thanks! Hope you have enjoyed 👍
Vídeo muito elucidativo! Desde sempre fui mais virado para o breeding, em especial de ciclideos africanos... mas mais recentemente iniciei-me no hobby de aquascaping e estes vídeos têm sido ouro puro. Um obrigado pelo bom conteúdo, e claro, os meus parabéns a um dos melhores aquascapers a nível mundial.
Obrigado Jorge. Espero que os vídeos ajudem a iniciar nesta vertente do hobby.
💚
Français
Anglais
Thank you very much for this video. I am looking for advice because I have a twinstar 600 s brand lighting bar. I would like to know up to what intensity of the lamp to operate it. currently the lighting is on for 6 hours a day with a maximum of 80% of the capacity. this model is known to help the red coloring of plants precisely but so far I find mine still too dull. thank you in advance and again well done and in all the videos
It depends of the soil used and plant's mass. I use my Twinstar for about 10h/day and 8h at 100%. But if you are facing issues, the better is to reduce the light intensity but keeping it t least for 7/8h day.
@@FAAOAquascaping my soil is ADA Amazonia
I have lot of Rotala (macrandra, H'ra, Bonsaï) staurogine repens, alternanthera reinekii mini, bucephalandra kedagang, eriocaulon, and Cuba.
thank you alot sir...
appreciate and respect you more... indeed!!!
i always love you guys not being personal about knowledge... sharing is caring though... love it...
Thanks Cristian. That is one of the reasons why I keep doing videos.
Most of them are just to answer a lot of questions placed weekly, in this way I think will be much easier for everyone to understand.
Beautiful!
Thanks!!
❤
Great video 😊
Thanks mate!
Really nice video 👊🏻.
Thanks mate 👍
Thank you Fiipe!
You're welcome! Hope you have enjoyed 👍
@@FAAOAquascaping Fore sure :) Will try those tips!
Hi Filipe,im sure i benefited alot from you video and you have help alot in providing honest informations.
I have always wanting to know how to change the colours of some plants to red or near to red.well its all trail and error,im sure this method will work for me n viewers.. well thank you stay safe signing of Nick. ( another awesome video ) 😀👍
Hi Nick, it's not difficult... It's indeed much easier than most of people think but then they will end up to do mistakes when dose daily. Plants must starve!!!
I got you Filipe, good learning love those information you provided. Yearning for more lolx cheerz!! Nick
That makes so much sense. Awesome!
👍
Grazie Filipe
Great information Filipe. I use an all in one ei ferts do i need to change individual ferts to achive this.
Or just reduce the dose of what you are dosing, or dose just twice a week. Plants must starve to get those reds 😉
Thanks for sharing 🙏
Thanks mate!
as always good info, how about phosphates should they be kept low too or not thanks master
I barely dose it in my tanks... But I use lots of rot tabs.
Hello Filipe, very informative Video and a beautiful tank!
Which phosphate level do you recommend? My tap water has a phosphate level up to 3,0 mg/l. Thanks.
Stay safe.
red plants + greens looks great :D "D anyone has red plants in their tanks at home as well?:D "D
I have... And a lot! 🤣
@@FAAOAquascaping so cool Filipe thats super nice, lets see even more red tank plants awesomeness your channel :D "D cheers anyone else?
Yes, I currently have Rotala Macrandra Mini Type 4, Rotala H'Ra, Rotala Colorata, Ludwigia Palustris, Ludwigia Mini Super Red, Cabomba Piauhyensis, Ammannia Crassicaulis and Persicaria sp. "Sao Paulo" spread over multiple tanks.
Hi Filipe. Great video as always. In my aquarium 70 litres of the flexible pipe in glass of aspitazione with the skimmer. It does not aspire well from the skimmer and I do not know if it is a powerful filter (Askoll Pratiko 200) or if it is because it is not a good brand. Can you recommend an offshoot of the glass with skimmer, good for your job? I saw in your video that you have one that seems to work very well.
Thank you.
Hi Roberto, I don't know that brand... The better way to get a proper surface skimming is to add an eheim surface skimmer, just put it in a timer to work 5 to 15 minutes every hour and the surface will be clean.
Moito obligado, tras seguir sus consejos de todos los vídeos de Felipe mis plantas están muy bien y no tengo algas en mi acuario.
Felipe, your tips worth gold.
is there any chance of an online workshop or even a group of students online? I would be grateful to be your student and pay a monthly fee.
Thanks for the tips. I guess its time for me to invest more in high end lighting. Seems the most important to me
Light is definitely the most important thing. It's the source of life and photosynthesis. Without good light will be difficult to achieve amazing results, but it can be done with cheaper ones... I did it in the past but takes so much to get it.
Ciao Felipe! I really hope you are getting well. As for the red plants, I’ve a mid-high white led lamp. Do you think i need necessarily an RGB lamp, or the white one (8500K) could be suitable for Ludwigia Repens and Rotala? Thank you in advance!!!
RGB will enhance the visual coloration, it applies to plants and fish. But plants in general will get coloration anyway if light is powerful enough and if the fertilization routine is balanced. Of course colors will not be so intense, but completely achievable. Have in mind few years ago we didn't have RGB and most of tube lights were, white (warm, daylight and cold white) then combined with purple and blue.
@@FAAOAquascaping Glad to read that!! Thank you so much! And thank you for your previous advices, I’m conducting an algae-free tank for more than 1 year. 🤗 Un abbraccio
the fourth and most important factor in growing red plants is TEMPERATURE. In the tropics we can't turn H.Pinnafitida to red if the temp is above 26C.
Great video as usual! Side question, how do you find keeping pea puffer with the other fish? Any issues. I’m tempted to try but a bit nervous as I don’t have a backup tank
They are very peaceful with other fish. No problems at all with them and I have used them in different tanks and with different livestock as well... So far no problems at all!
@@FAAOAquascaping ok nice and how many do you have? 3?
Hi, what lights you have on this tank ?
Twinstar 900SA
what about kessil lights ?
Im using Tropica Fertilizers. Is it good to use the specialised one while growing the plants, and than after the trimming when I need those red colours I will use premium? It doesnt contain any nitrogen, so I need to dose some or it will be good?
I'm not the right guy to talk about those fertilizers because I never used them.
But check the composition of each one and try to adapt to what I have explained in the video. I'm sure will work, because I use blended fertilizers too in the Netherlands and the results are good!
Thank you master 🙏
👍
Hello Felipe,how are you?
Hey Filipe, I'm desperate to save my plants, new tank (now on 6th day been doing daily changes), with invitro plants (TC). Using ADA amazonia. I know it leeches tons of ammonia so I'm doing daily water changes 50%, unfortunately didn't find the research on pre-cycling tank before planting, so now I'm trying to save them. Would you recommend any of the following or another solution you may have: 1. x2 daily water changes once in morning once in evening 2. doubling down on stabiliy/nutrafin cycle to create even more healthy bacteria to kill ammonia 3. taking them out of the tank, not sure where I can store them 4. adding iron or micronutrients 5. stop ammo (haven't heard much apparently neutralizes ammonia). I'm praying to the plant gods LOL.
Massive daily water changes. You’ll get through this! The biggest issue with fresh ADA soil is the algae bloom you’ll soon encounter, the plants wont really mind the ammonia otherwise. (Livestock shouldn’t be in tank at this point). Just do huge water changes daily and if algae persists skip a day of light (as needed) until things are back in order.
@@maniniscapes1936 cheers, for now for sure no livestock just want these plants to live :( I have faith in all my green plants, but my altertherna reneickii mini are turning white still a bit of red in middle portion. Bear in mind ammonia is reading 8.0ppm everytime before I've been doing water changes. Haven't gotten an Algae yet on day 6 now. Thoughts on any of the solutions above? thanks
The issue between invitro plants and ADA amazonia is the ammonia... In Vitro plants hate it and since ADA Amazonia leaches lots of ammonia, plants will struggle.
Try do do daily water changes 50% if you can to try to lower it...
I have used other soils and I never had this issue... It's just the damn ammonia!
@@FAAOAquascaping Thanks for fast response. They should call it ADA ammonia haha but I just didn't realize it would reach alarming levels to the point in would hurt my plants. I really did my due diligence, and now following daily water changes to a "T". Would be disappointing for my plants to die, I invested so much as I wanted to plant heavily in beginning. The cycling method you proposed is def. the solution if I had to go back in time (disappointing they don't advertise it much as it's a pro tip). Well looks like for now only water changes would help? Do you recommend any added micronutrients or more co2 to boost? I'm running co2 right now but just wondering if increasing will give them a lifeline.
CO2 is always welcome, will always help.
What didn't die yet will survive. Don't stress if plants don't look so well, they usually recover very fast as soon the parameters are perfect to thrive. Just have some patience, keep the water changes and after 2 weeks it should be OK 😉
For example, potted plants love ADA aquasoil... They grow like mad!
It seems we can't get the best of two worlds...
My rotala hra and colorata arent colouring well ,they are completely green, ive been trying for awhile now. Im not sure why as my light is quite intense, i think my ferts are good and i have a good amount of co2. Im worried about increasing the light intensity or duration as i have some issues with green dust algae and diatoms. I have also started using remineralized RO water. Im quite disappointed with the health of the plants in general. Any advice?
Intense light will cause green hair algae in case of unbalance and not diatoms or green dust. Green dust is caused by excess of liquid fertilization and this is why your plants don't get color.
Filipe Oliveira ok I’ll start to dose less. I think it’s also my ADA soil and root tabs which are increasing nitrogen. I’ll also recharge my purigen as it’s almost depleted, my 100ml of purigen is depleted after only 2 months of use and my tank is only 70L I think this shows lots of organics.
Do you think the flood light eg Kessils,Asta120 can produce red color or it needs to be spectrum high intensity light?
I never used those lights... So I can't answer to your question. But you can give a try a lean a fertilization routine and see how it goes for you.
Since I have seen some guys complaining about not getting reds from an ADA solar RGB, I can assure you that fertilization is definitely the key and not just the light 😉
Very informative 😊 how many bubble per second did you enable on ur 90p contest tank?
Thanks Isai. That tank has around 2-3bps in an external CO2 reactor. I think I already shown it in a video... Some VLOG about this one.
@@FAAOAquascaping thanks for the details. I missed that part😊
Hey Filipe, In the beginning you mention the sunburn. I am wondering if too intense of light can kill certain plants? For example, I have some Staurogyne sp. Bihar planted on a terrace, it’s a beautiful plant that resembles pinnatifida, and is mostly green but gets purple under intense light. I am starting to get some purple but also the leaves are turning reddish then melting and dying... could my light be to intense? My rotala is also curling over and won’t grow as tall as I’d like.
Hi Grant, it seems you have another problem. Your tank might be facing magnesium and calcium issues. When leafs getting curly is lack of calcium and when plant is pale, very weak and tend to die is indeed magnesium issues. Just be sure you have them in the water!
Light is not an issue, when it's really intense plants tend to grow towards the soil and some start do spread all over it...
Filipe Oliveira interesting! Thank you, the staurogen is in water just the leaves are getting red then melting but the stem is really healthy. The rotala is super healthy and red but the stem starts to bend sideways then down like 3/4 the way up then shoots out Ariel roots.
I will start by upping my trace elements a little bit
If it bends, we call it creeping (moving down due to very intense light) and that also promotes horizontal growth. Just eh melting is a bit weird... It shouldn't happen.
Ive watched this video about 10 times. Im trying to get all my rotala hra and coloratas red but it seems that only the ones that i trimmed and stuck amongst the other stems but not in the substrate turn red. The stems in the substrate are green and grow with quite rounded leaves. I am dosing only 2.8 PPM nitrate a week ,my lights are strong and are on for 6hrs and i have co2. Should i start dosing 0 nitrates? Also does phosphate and potassium impact it?
Just increase the photoperiod to 8h and dose less nitrogen. Do one thing at time and not both... Try to increase the photoperiod first and then if doesn't work, reduce a bit the dose of nitrogen.
it is said that to make rotala red is using soft water and low nitrate level, is it still possible that we use lime stone like seiryu that hardens the water and still have rotala flamming red (assuming that i have low no3, high light) ?
Yes. The secret is on low NO3 levels an starve a bit the plants.
Filipe Oliveira so the stones that hardens the water don’t really have any effects?
Not really, hard water is still better for them because they will grow even slower and more thick because they have plenty of calcium and magnesium. Just be sure the general and carbonate hardness aren't higher than 15°
Are you using any of the blue leds?
Love ur tank.
Yes. They are present but around 10...15%
@@FAAOAquascaping okay. Thx
Hi, I've been struggling with red plants since I started trying to get them to work. I use chihiros RGB 60 and it's at 50% intensity with the red being slightly more intense. I also dose 1ml of seachem flourish with 2ml seachem potassium during water changes which are done once a week. My total hra lost all of its leaves and started growing green leaves at its top but the roots didn't grow even after 3 months.My experience with ludwigia sp red which is now is that the plants seem to be turning more green than red at the tops. My substrate is tropica. What do you recommend I should do?
Add some root tabs and go for lean fertilization. Ludwigia sp red is one of the most easiest plants ever to get red colors...
@@FAAOAquascaping by "lean fertilization" you mean reduce the amount I give to my plants?
@@kovidsingh1976 check the video about my fertilization routine 😉
It's all there.
Very helpful video Filipe. I'm dosing 2.5ml twice a week of Nitrogen on my two week old 63liter tank, but some plants that used to be red a getting green. Should I reduce it to 2.5ml once a week? Or should I go lower?
Hi Josue, I don't know the concentration of the fertiliser that you are using... 2,5ml can increase the levels to 20ppm for example...
Try just 2.5ml once a week and evaluate how the plants react.
Is there big difference between fluval 2.0 and twinstar you are using? As with my light I cant get results with red plants as you
I can be wrong because I never used a fluval light, but by just looking to it and see some reviews, I would say that you need two fluval to have the same power of one Twinstar.
Is the red coloration linked to water column levels/foliar absorption of nitrogen?. Won't the substrate availability affect it? I mean either way aren't they getting the required nitrogen. Or is it through foliar absorption can they absorb larger concentration but through roots only lesser quantity? Is it because of that?
Hi Rinu, It was explained in the video... And you still have the other one about my fertilization routine.
But anyway, any macro element is absorbed in high amounts and fast by radial absorption of the leafs. When they don't have nutrients in the water, they will try to get them by the roots. This is why it's important to have a rich based soil and provide low amounts of liquid fertilization, plants will grow slower and with more color and volume.
Conteúdo de qualidade , assisti vídeo anterior , perfeita explicação ,Parabéns .
Obrigado William.
can you explain . how much watt of lamp LED to make stemplant going red...?
Wayan, use the references of the lights I have mentioned on the video to see the PAR, then you can go for something similar.
im a noob to keeping plants in my aquarium, i have been watching youtube to learn more about this. i have seen a few where they mention that weekly water changes to help the plants grow better or faster. but they dont explain why. if my water parameters are good why is it necessary to do a 50% change? i have been using liquid fertilizer to nourish the plants as well as root tabs when i change the water it seems like i would be losing some of that liquid fertilizer.right? what am i missing? anyone? anyone?
The most important to grow plants is a good and quality light. Then you can speed up their metabolism by adding CO2. Partial water changes of 50% are good to balance the nutrients, remove excess and replenish some nutrients in case you use tap water.
Check the video I did about my liquid fertilization routine, you will understand a bit more why
What is your ramping times in that tank?
I have 30 min ramp for sunrise and sunset, then moderate light (50%) for one hour and then 9h at almost full power. Too much light but I have it for one reason, some customers need to have light over their tanks for longer and I need to know how to fight that.
Don't exceed 8h day, it's more than enough... More than that you will might get in trouble.
@@FAAOAquascapingyep too much intense light time for my taste. 😅😅
Sometimes bottom leaf of rotala melts why?
Melts or die? This can be caused by lack of light or some trace elements. But I will point out to light issues.
@@FAAOAquascaping but small baby rotala hra are growing from from soil from same stem...
Do you use soil or sand? It can be a bacteria issue or low flow in the area.
@@FAAOAquascaping used Ada Amazonia planting is dence so can be a flow issue.. if its caused by bacteria what to do?
Sometimes we have some dead spots in the soil, that bacteria issue will cause plants to rot. Usually that spot smells really bad. But rot is different of melted leaves, because plant will die afterwards leaving an empty area, plants get lose from the soil.
If you have used in vitro plants with ADA aquasoil Amazonia and since the soil leaches a bit more ammonia than others, some invitro plants suffer a bit, this is why some people usually cycle the tank with water and lights off for 2 weeks before planting.
Hi, Very informative and interesting video... it's very much helpful...But i have a question...Along with red plants I do have Ferns and Anubias..How they can tolerate intense light? They are getting burned... Do we have any solution for this...
No issues with ferns... I have them too in my tanks, plus Anubias and Bucephalandras... Just be sure you place the Anubias and Bucephalandras in some shadow areas, ferns they will deal with it. 😉
Ferns don't 'burn' just be sure you don't dose excel over them...
@@FAAOAquascaping Thank you so much for your prompt response. It's really helpful...
Every week 25% water is necessary? I wanted to share some pics of my tanks with you. So you can guide me if you don't mind
I truly advise you to do it, it's good for the plants and livestock. If you have Instagram account just tag me @faaoaquascaping
@@FAAOAquascaping Hi, I sent you message from instagram also shared few pics... kindly check
I'm trying the leaner dosing and my plants are looking redder!
And my algae is getting a bit better but not really diatoms and staghorn.
Diatoms and staghorn aren't related to lean or heavy dose of fertilization... They are more related to silicates or fresh new aquascapes. Some biological issues can cause staghorn as well, but as soon the bacteria fixation is good again, they will be gone.
@@FAAOAquascaping What would help with biological issues?
Olá Felipe você não consegue por opção de tradução de legendas de linguas
Isso não existe, têm de ser adicionadas uma a uma depois de previamente alteradas do original criado automaticamente pelo RUclips.
Depois é necessário traduzir cada linguagem (o Google translator não funciona se for um texto longo) e adicionar mais uma vez individualmente no RUclips. Para adicionar as legendas adicionais, preciso de um dia de trabalho e isso é coisa que não tenho.
Se alguém quiser contribuir posso passar as legendas geradas automaticamente e depois adiciono no RUclips...
@@FAAOAquascaping ok Felipe muito obrigado
Hello, Filipe Great tank and very interesting content. I would really like to try your way of fertilization.
.: Week 1 :.
Monday: 5ml K
Wednesday: 2ml Fe + 5ml K
Friday: 5ml K
Saturday: Partial water change 20-50%
.: Week 2 :.
Monday: 5ml K
Wednesday: 2ml NO3 + 3ml PO4
Friday: 5ml K
Saturday: Partial water change 20-50%
Can you tell me in ppm what amount of microelements NPK you trying to have (What you add and what you have in your tap water)? On one of your video, You said weekly nitrogen 10ppm max. I sow in one of the comments that 20ppm of Potassium is more than enough. So what I should try to have in the tank?
I just dose 5 to 10 ppm weekly or every two weeks of nitrogen. In my tap water values are lower than 5, this is why I don't dose after water changes. I let plants take what they get from tap and afterwards I dose just a small amount (5ppm) if I did water change in that week or 10ppm if I do partial water changes every two weeks.
Micro elements just the recommended dose once a week and Potassium around 20ppm week, doesn't matter if I did or not water changes that week, I dose always Potassium 3x a week to reach that value.
If course this is only possible if we use a rich soil. Plants mus have something in the roots to stay healthy.
How do you deal with the risk of reoccurring blue green algae with such low nitrogen levels?
Blue green algae comes from very weak water flow and not low levels of nitrogen.
Michael Wong It starts from the substrate where there is low flow. If you can stop it there it won’t cover the plants or hardscape. Often light hitting the sides of tanks can start growing Cyanobacteria, so block the light at the substrate level.