This is a short video for a contactor not pulling in even after it has a 24v call. And no, its not a bad contactor. Please like and subscribe. Thanks for watching.
When you say that you are getting 24volts at the contactor, you aren’t actually. You are getting 24 volts to the outdoor condensing unit, but it isn’t making it to the contactor because one of the high pressure or allow pressure switches is open, correct?
Actually no you are right, I looked a little closer at your video, your pressure switches are on your common side, which would mean you do have 24 volts are the contactor on the hot side, but it wouldn’t close because it has no path to go after.
Thanks a bunch for the very helpful video. I knew I had a problem with one of my high or low pressure switches, and I could potentially bypass them, but I wasn't sure how to do it until I saw your video. I'm back up and running until the HVAC person is out in a couple of days.
They’re breaking the common instead of 24V then. Odd, I see that in automotive, but in A/C it’s pretty rare; at least in my 37 years in HVAC. It’s not a good idea to do it that way because if your common gets shorted somewhere, your safeties are bypassed and the unit could run itself into the ground needlessly. If you’re breaking 24V and it shorts, you’re still protected. Excellent video!
Thanks for the video the trains are supposed to be the best condensing unit but usually they're always the pain in the butt they're not like other condensing units that's for sure what usually works on Goodman's definitely does not work on trains I guess this is very complex mechanism designed to be a pain in the butt to the point you must called a train professional
Ive had 4 techs come look at my trane unit. No one can fix it. It works except it will not pull in contactor by itself, you hsve to push it in. New contactor, verified old one was good. New cap. Old one was fine. Bypassed both pressure switches. Have normal green LED. This unit should go.... by doesnt.
I’m having this exact problem at my customers home. I have 24 volts at both sides of the contactor and it’s not pulling in. I noticed the low pressure switch was melted from changing leaky service valves, I cut the wires and tied them together, and it still doesn’t work
Lennox has a board that gets 24v in and 24v out to pressure switches and come back to board then out to contactor but it wasnt pulling in. I connected 24v wires to contactors and it pulled in and bypassed board and pressure switches.
Yes. If there is a low pressure switch, and the unit is low on freon due to a refrigerant leak, low pressure switch can trip the contactor and keep the contactor from pulling.
That was my question also, or he has magical jumpers. I personally think that when you make a video you should go back and watch it over and see if you make any mistakes. I was confused like many I'm sure. I'm not saying that the producer makes bad videos but even professionals make errors. Other wise it was a good video.
Hi, thanks for the 'right to the point' video. When you hooked up your jumper to ground, it looked like it wasn't a bare ground wire? Or am I seeing things?
Hello sir pls can this also be applied to a three pole contactor only the evaporator I side working but the confessed outside not working and the contactor is good
I know its 2022 but we are having a similar issue with our heat pump the a/c was working a couple of days ago I even checked the vents when my tech was out side and we had 54 coming out. Now we have no voltage going to the contactor I check the board and the high and low limit switch hell we even bypassed them to see if we could get it to work, but still no low voltage going to the contactor. I checked the board on the A/C 24 volts is sitting there but somehow I am missing something and when we do engage the contactor the heater kicks on. Most likely I am going to have to just start from scratch and rewire the bugger I do have a slight feeling my tech my of messed up something somewhere.
It is connected wrong in the air handler. The Y call is going through the blue wire which is Trane and American Standard's normal ground wire at the control transformer. All that is happening is the ground is being provided because of the wire reversal
I just check out a good man condenser with a high pressure switch compressor wo t come on and fan I just couldn't bye pass it .but now I know thank you
I'm having the same problem everything checks out at the thermostat and air handler the voltage checks out at the thermostat wires on the condenser and on the side of the contactor but the contactor will not engage when I engage it manually only the compressor comes on the fan does not rotate unless I remove the fan hot wire from the circuit board and move it up pag. When I did do this while engaging the contactor at the same time I noticed that my low pressure line start to freeze up I did not have my gauges with me at the time because I've been troubleshooting it for wiring tomorrow I will put the gauges on and repeat this process maybe I do have a restriction and those special modifications on the low and high pressure supply lines on the condenser are closed due to low Freon are overfilling
What does it mezn when you see a wire coming out of the ground close to your condenser and its not connected to anything? How do i know if it needs to be connected?
I just looked at a similar unit. Contactor was replaced. Confirmed 24v at wire set coming from C and Y on furnace board to condensing unit. Same types of hi/low switches. Wire coming from low pressure switch was hooked to contactor coil. Even when pulling that wire off and manually depressing contactor, unit coming on. Providing 24v to contactor coil not getting contactor to pull in, very confused.
@@aljammal9891 I see where its attached to the green wire thats grounded on the case, however it looks like he is attaching his jumper lead to a brown insulated wire thats wire nutted to the green wire...is this brown wire not as it seems and actually a bare wire?
Should tell them to make sure they ground the common side of the contractor and not the 24 volt side.
I just had to trace it back last week, this is something so simple but makes it so much easier to diagnose!
When you say that you are getting 24volts at the contactor, you aren’t actually. You are getting 24 volts to the outdoor condensing unit, but it isn’t making it to the contactor because one of the high pressure or allow pressure switches is open, correct?
Actually no you are right, I looked a little closer at your video, your pressure switches are on your common side, which would mean you do have 24 volts are the contactor on the hot side, but it wouldn’t close because it has no path to go after.
Where can I get the jumper cables to test?
Thanks a bunch for the very helpful video. I knew I had a problem with one of my high or low pressure switches, and I could potentially bypass them, but I wasn't sure how to do it until I saw your video. I'm back up and running until the HVAC person is out in a couple of days.
I appreciate the video for real. I learned a lot. I didn't realize the common was being broken in that fashion
They’re breaking the common instead of 24V then. Odd, I see that in automotive, but in A/C it’s pretty rare; at least in my 37 years in HVAC.
It’s not a good idea to do it that way because if your common gets shorted somewhere, your safeties are bypassed and the unit could run itself into the ground needlessly. If you’re breaking 24V and it shorts, you’re still protected. Excellent video!
Yeah I agree with this, that’s why I was a little confused at first, I would much rather see 24v being broken with the switches rather than common.
Thanks for the video the trains are supposed to be the best condensing unit but usually they're always the pain in the butt they're not like other condensing units that's for sure what usually works on Goodman's definitely does not work on trains I guess this is very complex mechanism designed to be a pain in the butt to the point you must called a train professional
Great video sir keep them coming 👍🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Sometimes you can tap on the metal part of the pressure switch with a screwdriver handle and free it up.
Hi,When I taking RTU Data for analyising,I shown some days value continuesly 255, Can you please explain the 255 relation with the roof top unit.
Ive had 4 techs come look at my trane unit. No one can fix it. It works except it will not pull in contactor by itself, you hsve to push it in. New contactor, verified old one was good. New cap. Old one was fine. Bypassed both pressure switches. Have normal green LED. This unit should go.... by doesnt.
What do you mean jumping on the ground? I see you put it on the brown wires and then one on the contactor I see that.
I’m having this exact problem at my customers home. I have 24 volts at both sides of the contactor and it’s not pulling in. I noticed the low pressure switch was melted from changing leaky service valves, I cut the wires and tied them together, and it still doesn’t work
Wow weird it should have worked? What was the problem after all?
You damn sure helped me brother. Thx
Thanks for the video waiting on you to drop another banger
Lennox has a board that gets 24v in and 24v out to pressure switches and come back to board then out to contactor but it wasnt pulling in. I connected 24v wires to contactors and it pulled in and bypassed board and pressure switches.
Will a refrigerant leak cause the pressure switch to trip that contact ?
Yes. If there is a low pressure switch, and the unit is low on freon due to a refrigerant leak, low pressure switch can trip the contactor and keep the contactor from pulling.
Hey bro the ground wire you jumped to looks insulated,can you clarify that with another video so that everyone who is asking can understand thank you
Yes please
Yes, I am confused about that as well.
That was my question also, or he has magical jumpers. I personally think that when you make a video you should go back and watch it over and see if you make any mistakes. I was confused like many I'm sure. I'm not saying that the producer makes bad videos but even professionals make errors. Other wise it was a good video.
I thought the same thing I tried it and burned up my jumpers lol
The same with me also
I jumped it but the contacter won’t pull in. I can push it manually and it cuts on. Is this the contactor?
What did it end up being
No, I changed the contactor. The contactor still wouldn’t be pulling in
Your not getting voltage to pull in the contacter it should be 24 + volts@@Miss.perpetual
This video save my life today. Thanks a millon man
What's wrong with the contractor..
Ya good video. Much appreciated 🤙🤙
Hi, thanks for the 'right to the point' video. When you hooked up your jumper to ground, it looked like it wasn't a bare ground wire? Or am I seeing things?
Well you just saved my ass brother. I’ve been scratching my head for 2 hours on a rooftop in 96 degree heat trying to figure this out. 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you new service tech here I just subscribed
That’s great! Thank you. I hope these videos will help! Just send me a comment if you have any questions, I may be able to help!
So what if I have the same issue, 27 volts on the coul, no pressure switches at all and not coming on?
Why isn’t power ran through the switches to the contactor? That’s ass backwards.
Hello sir pls can this also be applied to a three pole contactor only the evaporator I side working but the confessed outside not working and the contactor is good
I’m confused when you said ground. So I can just clamp it on a insulated wire?
No. To the ground
Like the bare copper wire
@@HVACTechTips sorry for the dumb questions, high voltage ground?
Yes.
I know its 2022 but we are having a similar issue with our heat pump the a/c was working a couple of days ago I even checked the vents when my tech was out side and we had 54 coming out. Now we have no voltage going to the contactor I check the board and the high and low limit switch hell we even bypassed them to see if we could get it to work, but still no low voltage going to the contactor. I checked the board on the A/C 24 volts is sitting there but somehow I am missing something and when we do engage the contactor the heater kicks on. Most likely I am going to have to just start from scratch and rewire the bugger I do have a slight feeling my tech my of messed up something somewhere.
I am having the same problem did you figure it out?
@@daniela.9445 Yes we had a broken wire behind the thermostat once we eliminated the wire we got the unit to turn on.
@@Osinivos4 thank you very much
Glad to see you post brother.
although a short video it was very informative and will solve my issue. Thanks for sharing
It is connected wrong in the air handler. The Y call is going through the blue wire which is Trane and American Standard's normal ground wire at the control transformer. All that is happening is the ground is being provided because of the wire reversal
I just check out a good man condenser with a high pressure switch compressor wo t come on and fan I just couldn't bye pass it .but now I know thank you
Thanks got a question is it to late to start an HVAC career at 40 ?.
Nope just do it I started at 37
Not at all. Just started at 44
I'm having the same problem everything checks out at the thermostat and air handler the voltage checks out at the thermostat wires on the condenser and on the side of the contactor but the contactor will not engage when I engage it manually only the compressor comes on the fan does not rotate unless I remove the fan hot wire from the circuit board and move it up pag. When I did do this while engaging the contactor at the same time I noticed that my low pressure line start to freeze up I did not have my gauges with me at the time because I've been troubleshooting it for wiring tomorrow I will put the gauges on and repeat this process maybe I do have a restriction and those special modifications on the low and high pressure supply lines on the condenser are closed due to low Freon are overfilling
Thanks for the video.
You say ground but I can’t see it
Can I do this on Rheem if so how
GOD Bless you!
Did you just put an alligator clamp on a insulated wire?!?
Maybe? 🤣
👍
You look like Dubs
You saved my butt. Owe you some cold ones.
Super helpful buddy! thanks
Where does the HPS wires plug into the contactor then? One wire each on the contactor 24v side?
The common side of the contactor
Goat
Hi
How can I contact with you?
So what if the unit has low Freon, and the contactor is not pulling, but has a pressure switch?
That's where the low pressure will cut out, depending on how low it is that is
Thank you very much!!!!
Thanks
You just got another subscriber. Wife is happy. There for I'm really happy. God bless you.
Thank you sir
What does it mezn when you see a wire coming out of the ground close to your condenser and its not connected to anything? How do i know if it needs to be connected?
I just looked at a similar unit. Contactor was replaced. Confirmed 24v at wire set coming from C and Y on furnace board to condensing unit.
Same types of hi/low switches. Wire coming from low pressure switch was hooked to contactor coil. Even when pulling that wire off and manually depressing contactor, unit coming on.
Providing 24v to contactor coil not getting contactor to pull in, very confused.
Can someone explain how the jumper works without having bare wires? He put the jumper on top of the wire. I am very confused!! Thanks y'all!!
That ground wire was a bare wire , look at it one more time👍
@@aljammal9891 I see where its attached to the green wire thats grounded on the case, however it looks like he is attaching his jumper lead to a brown insulated wire thats wire nutted to the green wire...is this brown wire not as it seems and actually a bare wire?
Once again I agree