Worked for me. Had only 120 v to the contactor and went to the cutoff box and looked inside. Surprise - two 30 amp bussman time delay fuses. Put the ohm alarm and one buzzed the other nothing. Went to the hardware store and got a quick acting fuse (the guy helping said it was the same as time delay). Started to doubt this so I went to the Electrical supply store and found out that I did need the time delay fuse and spent $7 and two days of watching videos by you and Word of Advice on meters and air conditioning. Got er done! Thanks
Sam I can’t thank you enough, your instructions were fantastic I took your advice and went in the same sequence and the end result was 1 loose wires on the load in the disconnect and a blown capacitor 1 hour and 14$ and one great full senior 😊
Sam I just want to say I'm glad I came across your You Tube tutorials. Thank you for doing step by step and talking at a steady tone it's perfect and showing and explaining why at the same time what's your actually doing. Today Jan 25th 2021 at just became a subscriber
Hi there. I would like to say thanks for making this available to guys like us in the field who are still learning the trade. Now- couple of questions- it appears that the capacitor for the fan has recently been replaced. Did anyone check the motor to see what the motor data plate said it required for a capacitor before ordering a new fan?? Seeing the last guy who missed the loose lug could have also installed the wrong sized cap for that fan motor. Also, why was the original cap not used for the fan as you can clearly see from the video it’s a dual voltage capacitor but it’s only being used for the compressor… Just a few observations from a newbie and I am not being critical in anyway, just trying to learn from good people like you who post these videos for guys like me. Again- Thank you!
Great video! You made a seemingly complex issue very simple! I had already swapped the Run capacitor due to some residual resistance. I thought for sure that was the issue but was scratching my head again when it didn't work. I started shooting wires and discovered no voltage across the contactor terminals. That's when I found your video. I measured at the disconnect and sure enough I only had 120v coming in. I thought I had found all the A/C related CBs and reset them multiple times, so I was still at a little bit of a loss, but your video encouraged me to think it through a little further. I finally tracked down a previously undiscovered CB panel under the main power panel/meter on the side of the house. I never realized it was there. Even though the CBs were not tripped, I cycled them and lo and behold the heat pump came on a few minutes later. We had a very cold house the previous night and now enjoying proper heat. Thanks again!
Thank you for the in-depth explanation of every little thing you're doing! I've got a few years as an installer, but I have really no service experience, so this is all crucial, lol.
Thank you Sam HVAC looks so overwhelming and I want to start school in a few weeks, But I learned just be patient and work the steps. Basics and then progress. People will wait as long as it takes once the HVAC man is there! God bless thank you for sharing Sam.
I found this highly entertaining and educational. It helped me track down my problem when I could verify the thermostat was calling for Collins, could hear the contractor energize and could see the plunger depress. Confirm low voltage. I could then test as you showed for 240 volts coming into the contractor from the inside. I got no power there. This was confusing because I already checked the AC and furnace breaker in the electrical panel and already checked the breakers on the furnace itself. After you video I knew I needed to look inside further. I found that my secondary panel was drawing power from the AC breaker in the first breaker box. I did not realize the were related. I checked the second panel and found some electricians that we here over winter time to finish a kitchen in my basement turn off a breaker in the second box and failed to turn it back on when the left. So zero dollar fix for me.... But that’s not all. After fixing my AC I watched the rest of your video and found so much additional info. I learned a lot about this system. Whating you trouble shoot was a worthwhile experience. Liked and subscribed for the help!
Thank you, Sam; very informative video and your comments such as, “If you work this in your mind,” are very helpful and actually helped me focus on homing in on what was really wrong with my AC unit. It’s about 10:30pm where I live and I can’ t wait to work on my AC tomorrow after work using your advice!
Great video. I have the same disconnect and had the following issue happen which someone might run into. I had removed the disconnect and saw the copper plates were a little corroded so I removed them (one screw each) and used some steel wool to clean them up. I noticed three or four of the teeth (8 total) were a little out of alignment so I used a crescent wrench to bend them ever so slightly so they were straight. Upon reinstalling power was lost to the contactor. I had to resend them back to their out of alignment state in order to get power back. Bottom line I think the plates are not thick enough so as to get pinched properly by the receiving female part of the disconnect when inserting. I don’t think bending the female part is doable but I might be wrong. Got it back to working but was disappointed with the quality of the disconnect. Thanks for posting!
Been watching videos for days trying to possibly repair my ac myself. Nothing is helping so far. New run capacitor put on the other day. Will put on new contactor tomorrow as well as start relay and new thermostat. Checked to see if there were any burnt out fuses in attic. Checked all wiring connectors making sure they were tight. I have no disconnect. So now that I've seen this video I'm going to go see if the wires to the breakers are tight. If nothing works after all this...will call a tech to check refrigerant. I did learn that the house cools down a few degrees if I open the door to the attic. Almost 90 in house for about 2 weeks. Subscribed to this channel and think I'll dig through his playlist to see what other marvelous insight and knowledge he has that could possibly solve this painful dilemma. Jesus bless.
oh my, thank you so much. I followed the steps and found the problem and traced it back to the circuit breaker. it wasnt connecting properly. I fixed it by taking out the breaker and reconnecting it. thanks again.
Sam, great video. Im having the same issue, voltage at the disconnect but no 230 at the line in in the contactor. Tomorrow I’ll chk the lines from the disconnect. Thank u
If, your condenser fan has a slight lag. Starting up more than likely your capacitor is starting to go bad. You’ll need to test the capacitor on the fan side of the capacitor is getting weaker you’ll have a slight lag. With your condenser fan starting up, you’ll need to pull the disconnect. Get a stick or screw driver and spin the fan.” If the fan spins freely, you’re in good shape with the motor then you know it’s not the fan motor going out it’s the capacitor going out. I hope this helps you!! 🫶🏻🤗🤗
i had already tested the fuses and they were fine, i replaced the capacitor as it tested bad, i forgot that i had previously turned off the inside breaker. i was looking at your video to test the outside breaker and you mentioned in passing about making sure the inside breaker was off. so, i went and my inside breaker was still off. that is why i had no power even though i had tested the fuses and replaced my bad capacitor with a good one. so, thank you for your helpful video on troubleshooting the power. I bought an inexpensive walmart digital multimeter and looked at where you set your meter. so thanks for the great video!
Sam, what is the name of that small yellow tool you were using to check for voltage coming through? Thanks for the great video. I really like how you show up-close shots of what you are doing and which wires you are specifically testing. Liked, subscribed and notified!!
Hi- I am having trouble with condenser turning on and off within multiple times after start up. >I replaced contactor- didnt work- got 24v at contactor then 11.4v then volts moves all over. >I replaced transformer- same thing. I just watched your video- i wonder if my timer relay could be the issue? I have timer relay + 1 other one. Unit is rheem/2003
Hey Sam, You mentioned to check if blower motor upstairs is working or not. Mine is not working. When you turn on ac at thermostat, nothing happens. Nada, zero. But when you for start it at the blower motor and outside at the contractor, they both seem to start. What you think my issue is? Am I screwed to buy a new unit during this crazy time? 😅
Good job I learn something, question Do the fan unit out side have to come on if I’m using the heating in the house? Nothings happens with the outside unit when I turn on the heating my blower working I feel the heat ,Just nothing outside is coming on
Hello, my copper disconnect has black marks on it. I'm having similar issues with my AC. Two of the wires beneath the pullout are lose too, not sure how to tighten them, as they already seem tight but they move around like the one you showed. So I have black Mark's on my disconnect and contactor not going in. Pretty sure I have voltage to contactor too. Conundrum!
I'm having a similar issue right now and it's so frustrating! I just changed my Contactor and still the fan does NOT work!!! I contacted a technician who is going to arrive tomorrow to take a look. Already put $100 into this already!
@@juliantrujillo8560 actually the first thing I changed was the Capacitor. That didn't work. I changed the Contactor. That didn't work. I changed the Furnace Motherboard. That didn't work. Turns out that the Contactor Wire for some strange reason was Shorted!!! After the Technician fixed that wire. It turned out that the Honeywell Smart Thermostat was broken! At this point you probably guessed how upset I was. Overall I learned alot and the most important thing is that the AC is now working!!!
you didn't explain why you were reading 120 volts to ground from both legs of contactor to ground, but 0 volts across the two terminals. I believe it was because the contactor was pulled in and the good leg coming from disconnect was backfeeding the other side of contactor by way of the compressor windings.
That is correct and also one thing to point out that in 240v circuit there is no neutral: both legs are hot and carrying 120v each. You can inspect each leg separately by measuring at each hot one leg an the ground to make sure you got your 120v.
I wondered how he had 120 on both legs! As Officer Krupke pointed it was the same phase coming through the motor winding's. With a volt meter you can not tell you are measuring the same phase. A 2 channel scope meter would show the missing phase. As the other post here points out 240 does not have a neutral. Each phase is a supply and return. When one is hot the other is the return and vice versa. Consequently, if one phase is out the circuit is broken and you loose the 240. To really test each phase with just a meter, one would have to lift one on the wires to eliminate reading the other phase on it coming from the motor winding's. Now this video makes sense to me Thanks to Officer Krupke.
It's a nice video and I'm four years too late but: The disconnect: The two outside wires, are both hot wires, that run to the panel each one connecting to a breaker (240/breaker, which splits the phase). The inside two wires go to the load meaning out to the compressor, where one basically, what is the compressor and the other ones the fan. I know you kept saying the neutral wire, however, there is no neutral wire! both of those wires are hot and should be black and if somebody decides to do some Jerry rig wiring like you have there with a white wire then by code, they're supposed to arrive a black piece of electrical tape around the wire identify as a hot wire. (generally speaking, you would have a red and a black wire ). Not a big deal just throw a piece of black electrical tape on the white wire. You can tell that they were going to be additional issues just like the fan capacitor that is present. The brown wire, and the brown and white wire are both connected to the same winding in the fan motor. He has each one of those wires going to a capacitor. One side of that capacitor is the common, and the other is for the fan. I can't tell where that brown wire is running, but it looks like it is wired to the side of the unit. The brown wire should go on the fan terminal of the capacitor. And you should get a different color wire or you can get a piece of red tape or black tape and put it on the wire and then connect one end to the capacitor and the other end to the common terminal of the other capacitor that is present so that power is coming from the bigger capacitor and being sent to the smaller fan, capacitor to run the fan. By doing it that way when the thermostat says the 24 V to the contactor and it pulls in it will then send the power out to the capacitor which will allow the compressor to start and also send the power from the capacitor to the fan capacitor for the fan to start . But that would just be the right way of doing it ....
good video!! Question: I'm changing my capacitor (silver) in outdoor unit just because it's 14 yrs old. Should I also change the Hard Start kit (black) ???????
@@findme5270: Unless I don't want to pay the high prices to an A/C tech !! And unless I want a little project to do instead of sitting on a couch watching TV !! :)
Great vid, I learned a lot and thank you for that, but but but I can't get my stupid disconnect on my outside wall next to my air conditioner to pull out, it's like stuck in there or something and I don't want to pull the thing off the wall,,,, any ideas ???? anyone ????
Fan and Compressor were not kicking in. Replace Capacitor, Contactor, Control Board and still did not start. Replaced Low pressure switch and Air Condition (Fan and Compressor) start working.
You mentioned the fan didn't want to start right away. This seems like a diagnosis based on past experience. How much more "peppy" should the fan start that you would feel content with its performance and integrity. In my opinion, the way the fan slowly turned on seemed normal for a fan starting from a completely dead stop.
Before replacing the customers fan motor and charging them $300 that they don't have, you should do an amp draw on that motor before assuming it's bad.. That motor seems fine to me but without an Amp Drawl you'll never know if it's bad since it's running.
Worked for me. Had only 120 v to the contactor and went to the cutoff box and looked inside. Surprise - two 30 amp bussman time delay fuses. Put the ohm alarm and one buzzed the other nothing. Went to the hardware store and got a quick acting fuse (the guy helping said it was the same as time delay). Started to doubt this so I went to the Electrical supply store and found out that I did need the time delay fuse and spent $7 and two days of watching videos by you and Word of Advice on meters and air conditioning. Got er done! Thanks
Great -to the point. Simple. A good pace thru the video. A good teacher. Im a property owner.
Great step by step instructional video. Detailed and easy to follow. Great job!! Thank you!
You can give a man a fish and feed him for a day or you can show him how to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Sam has chosen to make us fisherman.
I guess I am kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good website to stream new series online?
I found it very interesting to see as a refrigerator mesh thanks a lot.
Sam I can’t thank you enough, your instructions were fantastic I took your advice and went in the same sequence and the end result was
1 loose wires on the load in the disconnect and a blown capacitor 1 hour and 14$ and one great full senior 😊
Great trouble shooting vid, you made more sense than most any other I’ve seen.
Sam I just want to say I'm glad I came across your You Tube tutorials. Thank you for doing step by step and talking at a steady tone it's perfect and showing and explaining why at the same time what's your actually doing. Today Jan 25th 2021 at just became a subscriber
Hi there.
I would like to say thanks for making this available to guys like us in the field who are still learning the trade.
Now- couple of questions- it appears that the capacitor for the fan has recently been replaced.
Did anyone check the motor to see what the motor data plate said it required for a capacitor before ordering a new fan??
Seeing the last guy who missed the loose lug could have also installed the wrong sized cap for that fan motor.
Also, why was the original cap not used for the fan as you can clearly see from the video it’s a dual voltage capacitor but it’s only being used for the compressor…
Just a few observations from a newbie and I am not being critical in anyway, just trying to learn from good people like you who post these videos for guys like me.
Again- Thank you!
Great video! You made a seemingly complex issue very simple! I had already swapped the Run capacitor due to some residual resistance. I thought for sure that was the issue but was scratching my head again when it didn't work. I started shooting wires and discovered no voltage across the contactor terminals. That's when I found your video. I measured at the disconnect and sure enough I only had 120v coming in. I thought I had found all the A/C related CBs and reset them multiple times, so I was still at a little bit of a loss, but your video encouraged me to think it through a little further. I finally tracked down a previously undiscovered CB panel under the main power panel/meter on the side of the house. I never realized it was there. Even though the CBs were not tripped, I cycled them and lo and behold the heat pump came on a few minutes later. We had a very cold house the previous night and now enjoying proper heat. Thanks again!
Thanks ,great video. Been a tech for a long time, but spent many years trouble shooting, but your video is 100% the best. Thanks
Clear and thoughtful video. I like the way you explained the voltage and procedures. A+
Thank you for the in-depth explanation of every little thing you're doing! I've got a few years as an installer, but I have really no service experience, so this is all crucial, lol.
Thank you Sam HVAC looks so overwhelming and I want to start school in a few weeks, But I learned just be patient and work the steps. Basics and then progress. People will wait as long as it takes once the HVAC man is there! God bless thank you for sharing Sam.
I found this highly entertaining and educational. It helped me track down my problem when I could verify the thermostat was calling for Collins, could hear the contractor energize and could see the plunger depress. Confirm low voltage. I could then test as you showed for 240 volts coming into the contractor from the inside. I got no power there. This was confusing because I already checked the AC and furnace breaker in the electrical panel and already checked the breakers on the furnace itself. After you video I knew I needed to look inside further. I found that my secondary panel was drawing power from the AC breaker in the first breaker box. I did not realize the were related. I checked the second panel and found some electricians that we here over winter time to finish a kitchen in my basement turn off a breaker in the second box and failed to turn it back on when the left. So zero dollar fix for me....
But that’s not all. After fixing my AC I watched the rest of your video and found so much additional info. I learned a lot about this system. Whating you trouble shoot was a worthwhile experience. Liked and subscribed for the help!
Excellent... this video saved me hundreds!!!
Great job Sam for this very helpful and informative video! Thanks.
Thank you, Sam; very informative video and your comments such as, “If you work this in your mind,” are very helpful and actually helped me focus on homing in on what was really wrong with my AC unit. It’s about 10:30pm where I live and I can’ t wait to work on my AC tomorrow after work using your advice!
l
You are such great deep explaining each and individual issues how to fine the problem, thankyou this is great video
Great video. I have the same disconnect and had the following issue happen which someone might run into. I had removed the disconnect and saw the copper plates were a little corroded so I removed them (one screw each) and used some steel wool to clean them up. I noticed three or four of the teeth (8 total) were a little out of alignment so I used a crescent wrench to bend them ever so slightly so they were straight. Upon reinstalling power was lost to the contactor. I had to resend them back to their out of alignment state in order to get power back. Bottom line I think the plates are not thick enough so as to get pinched properly by the receiving female part of the disconnect when inserting. I don’t think bending the female part is doable but I might be wrong. Got it back to working but was disappointed with the quality of the disconnect. Thanks for posting!
Very nice work! Outstanding results! Congratulations!
I enjoy your videos. Simple to understand and to the point. Thanks for sharing!
Been watching videos for days trying to possibly repair my ac myself. Nothing is helping so far. New run capacitor put on the other day. Will put on new contactor tomorrow as well as start relay and new thermostat. Checked to see if there were any burnt out fuses in attic. Checked all wiring connectors making sure they were tight. I have no disconnect. So now that I've seen this video I'm going to go see if the wires to the breakers are tight. If nothing works after all this...will call a tech to check refrigerant.
I did learn that the house cools down a few degrees if I open the door to the attic. Almost 90 in house for about 2 weeks.
Subscribed to this channel and think I'll dig through his playlist to see what other marvelous insight and knowledge he has that could possibly solve this painful dilemma. Jesus bless.
great tutorial Sam. THANK YOU AGAIN I HAVE LEARNED A LOT.
Great work! Keep the videos coming. Thanks
I love the details, thank you so much!
Awesome plain and simple ,, thank you. Glad I found your Channel
oh my, thank you so much. I followed the steps and found the problem and traced it back to the circuit breaker. it wasnt connecting properly. I fixed it by taking out the breaker and reconnecting it. thanks again.
Sam, great video. Im having the same issue, voltage at the disconnect but no 230 at the line in in the contactor. Tomorrow I’ll chk the lines from the disconnect.
Thank u
Great video.... Thank you for taking time out.😂👍
Really nice video, thank you for how you broke everything down
Your a great guy for this walk through! 👍
If, your condenser fan has a slight lag. Starting up more than likely your capacitor is starting to go bad. You’ll need to test the capacitor on the fan side of the capacitor is getting weaker you’ll have a slight lag. With your condenser fan starting up, you’ll need to pull the disconnect. Get a stick or screw driver and spin the fan.”
If the fan spins freely, you’re in good shape with the motor then you know it’s not the fan motor going out it’s the capacitor going out. I hope this helps you!! 🫶🏻🤗🤗
I appreciate the video. I strongly believe that the ac unit was purposely tampered with so the money could keep on flowing in.
Thanks same love the easy to understand video keep up the good work brotha!👍😎🙏
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I like the way you explain, thanks buddy your videos are very helpfull
Super helpful, thank you for making this video.
Excellent video. I have encountered this exact situation several times.
i had already tested the fuses and they were fine, i replaced the capacitor as it tested bad, i forgot that i had previously turned off the inside breaker. i was looking at your video to test the outside breaker and you mentioned in passing about making sure the inside breaker was off. so, i went and my inside breaker was still off. that is why i had no power even though i had tested the fuses and replaced my bad capacitor with a good one. so, thank you for your helpful video on troubleshooting the power. I bought an inexpensive walmart digital multimeter and looked at where you set your meter. so thanks for the great video!
great video, very easy to follow. thanks
Sehr schöne Erklärung , daß Hilfe viele , danke 👍
Awesome Video Sam thanks. I’m a New Subscriber 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Great job...I learn alot from yr videos.
Im from egypt im like your videos
And your exblain
Great job and tutorial thanks for sharing your knowledge blessing
great video i really learn a lot from you thank you for your time
Sam, what is the name of that small yellow tool you were using to check for voltage coming through? Thanks for the great video. I really like how you show up-close shots of what you are doing and which wires you are specifically testing. Liked, subscribed and notified!!
Hi- I am having trouble with condenser turning on and off within multiple times after start up.
>I replaced contactor- didnt work- got 24v at contactor then 11.4v then volts moves all over.
>I replaced transformer- same thing.
I just watched your video- i wonder if my timer relay could be the issue? I have timer relay + 1 other one. Unit is rheem/2003
Nice video
I love this channel
❤❤❤❤❤
Great tips! Thank you.
You are a master of diagnostic. Good work.
Very helpful information, thxs.
Very good systematic troubleshooting follow the source of power
To me you're assuming the condenser fan motor was bad! Did you check the amperage of the fan motor? And what about the capacitor.
that process of elimination 👌
I love watching ur videos bro, they’re really helpful, I’ve learned a lot,
Hey Sam,
You mentioned to check if blower motor upstairs is working or not. Mine is not working. When you turn on ac at thermostat, nothing happens. Nada, zero. But when you for start it at the blower motor and outside at the contractor, they both seem to start. What you think my issue is? Am I screwed to buy a new unit during this crazy time? 😅
Good job I learn something, question Do the fan unit out side have to come on if I’m using the heating in the house? Nothings happens with the outside unit when I turn on the heating my blower working I feel the heat ,Just nothing outside is coming on
Good find. Thanks for the video
Your the best sam
Hello, my copper disconnect has black marks on it. I'm having similar issues with my AC. Two of the wires beneath the pullout are lose too, not sure how to tighten them, as they already seem tight but they move around like the one you showed. So I have black Mark's on my disconnect and contactor not going in. Pretty sure I have voltage to contactor too. Conundrum!
thanks this cleared up a lot for me
Your the Man Sam nice job.
Excellent video thanks
I'm having a similar issue right now and it's so frustrating! I just changed my Contactor and still the fan does NOT work!!! I contacted a technician who is going to arrive tomorrow to take a look. Already put $100 into this already!
You're about to put in another 200 at least now
You should have change the capacitor ,what what's wrong
@@juliantrujillo8560 actually the first thing I changed was the Capacitor. That didn't work. I changed the Contactor. That didn't work. I changed the Furnace Motherboard. That didn't work. Turns out that the Contactor Wire for some strange reason was Shorted!!! After the Technician fixed that wire. It turned out that the Honeywell Smart Thermostat was broken! At this point you probably guessed how upset I was. Overall I learned alot and the most important thing is that the AC is now working!!!
Great video how long have you been doing hvac?
you didn't explain why you were reading 120 volts to ground from both legs of contactor to ground, but 0 volts across the two terminals. I believe it was because the contactor was pulled in and the good leg coming from disconnect was backfeeding the other side of contactor by way of the compressor windings.
which would read as 0 volts, no difference in potential, basically reading the same two points in ckt.
That is correct and also one thing to point out that in 240v circuit there is no neutral: both legs are hot and carrying 120v each. You can inspect each leg separately by measuring at each hot one leg an the ground to make sure you got your 120v.
I wondered how he had 120 on both legs! As Officer Krupke pointed it was the same phase coming through the motor winding's. With a volt meter you can not tell you are measuring the same phase. A 2 channel scope meter would show the missing phase. As the other post here points out 240 does not have a neutral. Each phase is a supply and return. When one is hot the other is the return and vice versa. Consequently, if one phase is out the circuit is broken and you loose the 240. To really test each phase with just a meter, one would have to lift one on the wires to eliminate reading the other phase on it coming from the motor winding's. Now this video makes sense to me Thanks to Officer Krupke.
@@davesmith6435 thanks for the explanation.
It's a nice video and I'm four years too late but:
The disconnect:
The two outside wires, are both hot wires, that run to the panel each one connecting to a breaker (240/breaker, which splits the phase).
The inside two wires go to the load meaning out to the compressor, where one basically, what is the compressor and the other ones the fan.
I know you kept saying the neutral wire, however, there is no neutral wire! both of those wires are hot and should be black and if somebody decides to do some Jerry rig wiring like you have there with a white wire then by code, they're supposed to arrive a black piece of electrical tape around the wire identify as a hot wire. (generally speaking, you would have a red and a black wire ).
Not a big deal just throw a piece of black electrical tape on the white wire.
You can tell that they were going to be additional issues just like the fan capacitor that is present. The brown wire, and the brown and white wire are both connected to the same winding in the fan motor. He has each one of those wires going to a capacitor. One side of that capacitor is the common, and the other is for the fan.
I can't tell where that brown wire is running, but it looks like it is wired to the side of the unit.
The brown wire should go on the fan terminal of the capacitor. And you should get a different color wire or you can get a piece of red tape or black tape and put it on the wire and then connect one end to the capacitor and the other end to the common terminal of the other capacitor that is present so that power is coming from the bigger capacitor and being sent to the smaller fan, capacitor to run the fan.
By doing it that way when the thermostat says the 24 V to the contactor and it pulls in it will then send the power out to the capacitor which will allow the compressor to start and also send the power from the capacitor to the fan capacitor for the fan to start .
But that would just be the right way of doing it ....
Great video Sam
I'm having problems with my furnace and ac. I've tried trouble shooting thermostat, furnace, and ac with no luck. Can you help?
curious.. There is a duel run Cap, but the installer used another cap to run the fan motor. why wasn't the duel run used?
U lost me on the neutral..I thought 240v did not have a neutral..good video..thanks
good video!! Question: I'm changing my capacitor (silver) in outdoor unit just because it's 14 yrs old. Should I also change the Hard Start kit (black) ???????
If it’s still working I wouldn’t change it. It won’t hurt though
If you aren’t a professional you don’t need to mess with it
@@findme5270: Unless I don't want to pay the high prices to an A/C tech !! And unless I want a little project to do instead of sitting on a couch watching TV !! :)
Awesome tutorial :)
What terminal is ""the neural ""on the contactor???
SO IF ALL THE VOYAGE READINGS GOING TO THE CONTACTOR ARE GOOD, THAN WHAT CAN IT BE?
I’d have identified the white with black tape to signify it’s a hot leg.
Thanks dear brother
Great vid, I learned a lot and thank you for that, but but but I can't get my stupid disconnect on my outside wall next to my air conditioner to pull out, it's like stuck in there or something and I don't want to pull the thing off the wall,,,, any ideas ???? anyone ????
Fan and Compressor were not kicking in. Replace Capacitor, Contactor, Control Board and still did not start. Replaced Low pressure switch and Air Condition (Fan and Compressor) start working.
Why is my condenser shutting off towards evening? Is condenser fan overheating maybe?
I'm confused. Why is there a neutral in there? You have two hots and a ground. What's the purpose of the neutral?
You mentioned the fan didn't want to start right away. This seems like a diagnosis based on past experience. How much more "peppy" should the fan start that you would feel content with its performance and integrity. In my opinion, the way the fan slowly turned on seemed normal for a fan starting from a completely dead stop.
really interesting video.....top work.
Outstanding video
Well done!!!
I'd double check the caps again before replacing the fan motor. And also check the amps on the fan
Well done.
Thanks.
superb video
Great video
Very good video bro 👍🏻
You don't have a neutral on 240 volts!
What city are you located?
At 5:12 the meter looks like it has 962 volts. I was looking for the units and all I see is V, I don't see anything like mV or μV. Weird.
why did the fan motor have to be replaced
Subscribed, good video
Caution There is no neutral in single phase power 2 hots and a ground. He is right on some stuff but not all of it. Be careful what you see on RUclips
Unless of course if you are testing 240V from the receptacle or source!
nice job
I have a question. I changed my thermostat and still my inside and outside unit will not come on. What should I check next ?
Capacitor
Before replacing the customers fan motor and charging them $300 that they don't have, you should do an amp draw on that motor before assuming it's bad.. That motor seems fine to me but without an Amp Drawl you'll never know if it's bad since it's running.
Nice sam
Useful video