I became the lead at my property this year. In the past we've always had at least 1 other experienced maintenance person to help brainstorm different issues or just offer a simple answer when I'm over-complicating an issue. I don't have that anymore. Your videos have been that extra voice for me and I appreciate it. Even basic stuff like this can help. Sometimes I just know by behavior and past experience to replace a certain part but it's nice to get more in-depth tutorials about why. I'm getting more sharp and accurate with diagnosis with your vids and some of the comments from viewers 👌
If you're a homeowner and want to, and the coil still works, you can take these contactors apart and sand a shiny new flat surface on the contacts with about a 600 grit sandpaper on a flat table. works great. just like new. reduce, reuse, recycle, and save money too.
It seems I always remember the crankcase heater being fed in the contactor line side. I always thought manufacturers used the single pole contactor to cut manufacturing costs.
I was wondering why some units have a single pole and double pole. I have a crankcase heater for my unit but it comes with a double pole from factory though.
Nice video. Only you did not torque the lugs to the proper in/lb settings. That information is on the contactor. (25 in/lb for screws, 40 in/lb for lugs, most often).
Yes this is true, one might need a dedicated torque screwdriver to be preset to know when proper torque is reached from the clicks. That's what I would recommend using for your first 1-5 years of replacing contactors and such. But once you have been doing this for over 20 years and have replaced and installed about 1,000 contactors you get a good 'feel' for what 25 inch/lbs is on a contactor. Not diy advice 👍
@ApartmentMaintenancePro You are partly right. I have been teaching students that they need to torque contactors. It's the students that are in the trade that don't realize correct torque. So veteran tradesmen are the ones that need the torque wrench the most. In my experience. Thank you for the reply.
You are wrong in this video. And should not be given information to someone they will get shocked when you went L1 to T1 you showed zero go from ground to T1 and you will have 120v this is a 2pole single throw breaker if you have 240v on L1 L2 then the side that does not have the throw it carries the power across the metal bar.
Хобби
I became the lead at my property this year. In the past we've always had at least 1 other experienced maintenance person to help brainstorm different issues or just offer a simple answer when I'm over-complicating an issue. I don't have that anymore. Your videos have been that extra voice for me and I appreciate it. Even basic stuff like this can help. Sometimes I just know by behavior and past experience to replace a certain part but it's nice to get more in-depth tutorials about why. I'm getting more sharp and accurate with diagnosis with your vids and some of the comments from viewers 👌
Thanks for watching! Check out the apt maintenance Facebook group great resource and active members to answer questions as well 👍
NCVT !😊
Don't be a part swapper. No bad habits!!
No fluff straight clear explanation. Good video. Thanks.
If you're a homeowner and want to, and the coil still works, you can take these contactors apart and sand a shiny new flat surface on the contacts with about a 600 grit sandpaper on a flat table. works great. just like new. reduce, reuse, recycle, and save money too.
4:08 Take note of that 1:1 replacement. It'll save you a lot of headaches if your a DIYer!
Great explanation dave thanks 🙏👍
Excellent video. You got yourself another follower sir!
Thanks good explanation 🙌
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Good show thanks
thanks Dave!!!!
Thanks for sharing! 👍💯
Great video brother 🤘💯🌎
Appreciate it👍
Thanks for video. By the way contactor doesn’t has mark L1 & L2 T1 & T2 is’t doesn’t matter opposite directions.
Well done
Thanks dave 👍🏻
Welcome!
That will do it!
It seems I always remember the crankcase heater being fed in the contactor line side. I always thought manufacturers used the single pole contactor to cut manufacturing costs.
I think you want those separated on l1 to t1. Though not sure why it would matter
Great video. I'm having a contactor issue now. So I'll replace the contactor. Hopefully this will work?
Well did it work?
@@Brekstahkid no
I was wondering why some units have a single pole and double pole. I have a crankcase heater for my unit but it comes with a double pole from factory though.
Not sure. Wire could be fed from bottom of contactor as well
Yes
👍👍👍👍🔥🔥
🍻
Nice video. Only you did not torque the lugs to the proper in/lb settings. That information is on the contactor. (25 in/lb for screws, 40 in/lb for lugs, most often).
Yes this is true, one might need a dedicated torque screwdriver to be preset to know when proper torque is reached from the clicks. That's what I would recommend using for your first 1-5 years of replacing contactors and such. But once you have been doing this for over 20 years and have replaced and installed about 1,000 contactors you get a good 'feel' for what 25 inch/lbs is on a contactor. Not diy advice 👍
@ApartmentMaintenancePro You are partly right. I have been teaching students that they need to torque contactors. It's the students that are in the trade that don't realize correct torque. So veteran tradesmen are the ones that need the torque wrench the most. In my experience. Thank you for the reply.
@@leealtmansr.3811 Thanks for the input 🙏
How come you didn't try to clean it?
you said its dead but showed 280.08
non-loading meter. just ghost voltage. This exact meter takes awhile to get used to
First comment😀
You are wrong in this video. And should not be given information to someone they will get shocked when you went L1 to T1 you showed zero go from ground to T1 and you will have 120v this is a 2pole single throw breaker if you have 240v on L1 L2 then the side that does not have the throw it carries the power across the metal bar.