This is the Walnut Media Blaster Machine I use- amzn.to/3CsdpuA Walnut Shell Blasting Media- amzn.to/3dSZLGJ Manual Carbon Cleaning Method- ruclips.net/video/JoK1rGipeKw/видео.html&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I believe the latest 3.5 and 2.7 eco boost have have gone to duel injection system port and direct injection to help with the problem of direct injection
Totally correct Jack, and sad that it’s very preventable if they wanted to. But likely nothing will be improved now as ICE is abandoned for the brave new world of all EV.
@@DieselRamcharger I understand that is the popular opinion in much of the consumer world but I can tell you without a doubt after 40 years in the industry that is not the case. The 3/36 warranty period is simply a cost vs benefit calculation that has nothing to do with engineering life. The parts and cars are held to a strict 10yr/150K miles standard or more. We design to this as our minimum and ruggedly test to that standard. The fact that we have a design flaw that was missed/ignored does not mean there was malicious intent to get to end of warranty and not one second more. It’s a design mistake and a mistake by management to not fix it in a timely fashion. And now with the push to all EV I doubt anything else will be done and leave it to service procedures like the walnut blaster.
@@380.motorsports Eventually, we will conclude that EV's are a pipe dream for at least the next 50 years. The energy is not available in the grid for 150,000,000 people to get home from work and plug in their 230 volt, 50 amp chargers every afternoon. Mindmills won't do it, solar won't do it. We will need to at least double the current amount of generated power that we have now. That is, if there were enough lithium for that many batteries, which there isn't. Wishful thinking only goes so far, then reality takes over. Those in charge are fully aware but are in too deep to be honest.
We did a similar process on the F-4 fighter. There is a large hopper put on the intake and filled with walnut shells, run the engine to about 90% and start putting the shells through the intake. The first time we did this (1966 when the F-4's were pretty new to the USAF) the procedures for this process did not address the exhaust containing the fast moving walnut shells coming out the rear at high enough speed to de-paint the flight line tool shed building. We were tasked to paint the building. lol,now
Yes Audi has running cars fed walnut shells car runs n no wand necessary no wasting time removing part also I'd say it cleans intake also it's gotta!!!!
Yup, never owned a Ford before - picked up a 2013 Flex. After a few studders of the transmission, I found Brian and found out the transmission fluid should be changed every 30k. At over 226k... I immediately got to work. I've been watching EVERY video of his because it seems like there is a lot of info that applies across the board with the current generation of Fords. My Flex doesn't even have EcoBoost - but here I am watching and learning.
I’m a senior master tech at a Ford dealership and I bought this same blaster back in January and have been cleaning valves on Focus ST’s every since. Thanks for the video.
Just out of curiosity, have you seen the same issue on any Explorer STs? We bought one and I've been reading about the need for a catch can, but I don't want to do anything that can void the warranty.
Has anyone tried rerouting the pcv hose to the intake box under the filter so this carbon gets sucked into air filter before it’s sucked into the motor. Just a idea after watching this
@@semajniffirg230 Catch cans do NOT solve the issues with this. We've had years and years of evidence to prove otherwise. The issue happens as a result of combustion NOT simply blowby.
Brian, many thanks to you for motivating me at almost age 70 to address this on my 2013 Ford Focus ST. Of the three methods you described: media blasting, manually picking the carbon off the valves, and chemicals, I chose the manual method. Your caution about the chemical cleaning having an effect on the turbo bearings and seals steered me away from that method. Brush sets were easily and modestly acquired from Amazon. Bending a 180 degree end on some to the brushes allowed me to reach behind the valve stem to attack those deposits. I can verify that cylinders 2 and 3 had the most intake runner/intake valve oil accumulation. Previous owner had installed an oil catch can that I replaced with a better model afterwards. I used 1/8" wooden dowels inserted in each cylinder and my able assistant to verify when #1 was at the top of the compression stroke. The manual method might sound like the least efficient method, but when I was finished blowing out all 4 cylinders, even after covering the intake runner with a wet rag, there were carbon pieces EVERYWHERE, except down the taped off intake ports! For at home valve cleaning with no possible harm to the turbocharger at minimum cost this seems pretty efficient. Thanks again for the motivation and easy to understand explanations and techniques to follow. To add to EL ROBO's comment, the A-7E Corsair I flew in the US Navy used walnut blasting to clean out the turbine on the miserable TF-41 engine that airplane was saddled with.
I have a video on my channel of my wife's 2013 Fusion (2.0L ecoboost) and how it looked at 32K miles when I walnut blasted the valves. I installed an oil catch can and it seems to have improved the carbon buildup, but it certainly hasn't eliminated it.
I cannot believe THAT is what a walnut blaster looks like. I fully thought this was a giant production of a system and just well beyond my scale of give-a-shit. Excellent news, man. Good video, and I don't even go here.
Nice presentation! good to see that you masked it off thumbs up! The most cost efficient means for me to de sludge the ports is remove the intake and soak in degreaser, while it’s soaking clean each port of the head with a hot wash or degreaser and pressure washer but close each valve obviously and scrape and wash the manifold and that way there’s no risk of missed sludge causing a lock up,seen bent rods from a bad chemical clean dislodging a large enough piece of sludge to hurt!
I'm a tick over 60k. I'll wait until the block splits and then I won't have to worry about this. 😬 Thanks for explaining this process so thoroughly! 👋😎👍
I have a 2010 SHO (3.5) with 130k+ and had valves that I’m pretty sure were never cleaned in it’s lifetime. It’s amazing how much buildup was on the valves and what a difference walnut blasting did to them. I had a misfire on cylinder 4 (usually at WOT) I couldn’t figure out and I’m pretty sure this was the cause.
Did it myself, probably took me 4 hours but someone more experienced could get it done in shorter time. I bought a siphon feed media blaster from Amazon and the walnut from harbor freight.
@@lild123 thanks for the reply. Just got a 2015 Taurus police interceptor Ecoboost with 89k miles. I’m curious to see how bad the carbon build up is because obviously it was driven hard it’s entire life and I’ve been told that helps prevent buildup.
@@Transitional-Authority I believe on standard injection vehicles, giving it the beans will help keep the valves clean but I think direct injection cars are a different story. I could be wrong
Funny how in the 1960's, you had to do wrench maintenance every 10~20K miles, adjust points, replace spark plugs, wires.... then we got engines running so clean and efficient that they were pretty much maintenance free until 100K miles and all you had to do was change the oil....now we are going backwards to where you have to do "wrench" maintenance on an engine every 40K miles.
"Routine" maintenance on a typical Ford engine now includes: timing chain replacement, cam phaser replacement, exhaust manifold stud replacement, plastic oil pan replacement, valve de-carbonizing, etc. Moderate maintenance includes engine block or entire engine replacement. All before 100k miles. Total disgrace.
With the climate cult running the show we won't be using internal combustion engines much longer. In the future we'll be calling the blacksmith to reshoe our horses.
Do u recommend the chemical induction cleaner as a preventative maintenance once the valves are cleaned or clean from brand new ( non turbo motor ) ? Even tho the cleaner might not hit every cylinder as well depending on intake design like u stated? I also understand mechanical cleaning is best . I wild worry about sensors failing or catalytic convert issues from the chemicals ? Thanx .
Back in my Army days as a CE, we used to use crushed walnut shells mixed with laundry detergent to clean out our jet turbine engines on our helicopters. Easy enough to do, and with the help of my door gunner and pilot, it took less then an hour from start to finish. But in late 1970 we had to stop doing that as the crushed walnut shells was cracking the compressor blades and that was causing catastrophic engine failure while flying combat missions. I have no idea what or if a solution was found for douching out our turbines.
We use a highly caustic chemical solution now that dissolves the carbon by flushing it through the hot and cold sections of the turbine, then rinse with water, then start the engine to dry it out. I've been a CE on Hawks for ten years now.
I my world the simple solution it to just get a different engine. Any engine that needs to have valves cleaned every 40 to 60 K needs an engineering change. Keep the good stuff coming.
My daughter has a 3.5 Ecoboost with turbos, I've tried explaining the carbon buildup issues they have down the road , but it's like talking to the wall , so I sent this video to her, maybe she will listen to what you have to say about carbon build up....
I'm interested as well, I have an f150 Ecoboost with just over 100k, and it has some oil in the intake, I try to clean the sensors often, need to get the catch can for it
@@Jacob1986 the newer 3.5 has a supplemental port injector to mitigate this... I can't recall what year it was implemented, though. (345k on my 2011... haven't inspected for carbon yet)
Pretty kool to see walnut being used to in an automotive application. Considering how well it cleans and polishes my spent ammo casing’s. Never even thought about it’s use in automotive
8/24/22. Always love your content &video presentations. Great clear speech & communication to we (Ford) YT viewers describing in detail & camera close ups. Appreciate the time you take to do your research, camera set ups, lighting & sound management in an automotive garage environment. Just another great job! Also hope your family 👪 new baby all doing well! . Stay safe & carry on sir!👍👍👍⚙🛠🍺😊
YES! Back in the late 70's/early 80's - this was a popular "treatment" in the GM engines which had severe carbon build-up issues....about 15+ year ago I mentioned this to a friend of mine who is a MSE at a Ford dealer when he was talking about this issue with the EB engines and there was officially "no fix" other than pulling the heads...... he agreed, if he could only find an old machine out there! GRIN
Former GM tech here. The product you speak of is GM Top Engine Cleaner. This stuff was very effective in cleaning carbon out of an engine. It was originally intended for carbureted engines. However, we were able to use it on the early EFI engines by mixing it 50:50 with gas, then fill a pressure cleaner like the BG one in this video. We'd connect the pressure cleaner to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. We then disabled the fuel pump, then started the engine and allowed it to run off the pressurized bottle. Once the bottle was empty, engine would stop. Enable the fuel pump and take the car for a road test. Shop foreman made us do these cleanings outside the shop, as the Top Engine Cleaner would create tremendous smoke and it stank like a truck full of rotten eggs.
I took your advice and invested in the RXP catch can system. Installed on a brand new 2020 F-150 EcoBoost. So far not a hint of trouble. It catches approximately 2 oz every 3,000 MI
I was thinking about an eco boost but this specific issue gives me pause. I wonder why it is that catch cans are so effective but none of the manufacturers employ them as standard equipment? Thoughts?
@@rbailey225 Cost, issues surface after warranty is up so Ford doesn't care. They like that it sends more work to the dealership network and increases revenue from parts sales.
The EPA has found an effective way to deal with the waste oil. That is to send it back through your engine no matter what it cost you. Catch cans pose the problem of what to do with the waste oil.
Funny how we've come full-circle. I remember the, Tempo I believe, that had the intake build-up issues. The dealership I worked at had the factory Walnut Shell blaster, back then.
Nothing funny about it. Ford just wants to sell cars so the average owner figures that since their car is old it's supposed to run like crap and they trade it in for a new one. No engineering department is this stupid, this is planned.
After purchasing our 2018 Edge in 2020 @ 45k miles, I used solvent and picks to clean the valves. Immediately after, I installed an oil catch can between the crankcase breather and the intake manifold. When I replaced the engine @ 115k (notorious coolant channel defect) the intake valves had virtually no carbon buildup at all. The only thing I hate is having to empty the can when it gets full every couple weeks. The garbage that is being pumped into the intake of these engines is astonishing and it's no wonder the valves crust up.
I like the feedback on using a catch can. I've been looking for a before and after video of someone who has installed one but I have yet to see that video.
That whole situation is something that should have shown up in the Engineering and testing phase of development, they could have added external cleaning injectors. Sounds costly, but look at all the gizmos that are added to lower emissions. The old 1970's air injector system comes to mind . They charge so much for new vehicles but care not about longevity and the investment by the people buying them. I had a 2010 f150 lariat supercrew that the cab bottom rotted off along with the bed support runners, very sad Engineering. I think they made them out of pre rusted steel before going all aluminum. $ 50,000 rust bucket.
it prob did show up but they shrugged and decided "welp, we are selling cars after all , right? " The solution was simple. add more injectors .... that's the real solution. this is just a remedy as the problem will still exist. some companies sell a multi port fuel rail addon and with some ecu programming and a tuner , one could really fix the issue. Some crazy ppls already have. but their goal was a bit different but arrived at the same conclusion
I'm not surprised a clueless boomer would say something so dumb, yes add extra injectors to inject more fuel when the entire point of a direct injected engine is to save fuel. And who would of guessed if you didnt want your truck to rot you should of used a fluid film treatment. Complete clown
I know for a fact that Ford did much better in coating their car bodies during the 60's and 70's and zinc plating fasteners. I inspected a one-year old 2018 Ford Focus and thanks to some collision damage I could see lots of corrosion in the floor area of body. Strange and disconcerting
I’m a idiot about most things including mechanical stuff, I was born without the tightening Gene, means I break it off or not tight enough, but I love this guys videos. I have a 2017 2.7 Ecoboost powered F150, put a JTL catch can on it and at 87k running great.
I wish you guys were closer! I live in northern IL and you guys are about 1.5hours away from me. I definitely feel like I need this done on my 14 fusion 2.0, bought it at 44k and it’s got 85k on it now and I don’t think it’s ever been done before I got it. Awesome video, thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I'm currently going thru the timing chain replacement on my 5.4 3v following your serie of four episodes. Thanks a lot, like someone said in a comment, your you tube channel is better than Netflix. 👍
It's nice to know you know fords..inside and out..my dad was a service station owner way back in the day..Fords were is fav too..things have changed alot over the yrs..its sad ford has this issues with this engine..not good engineering on theses intakes..my dad probably wouldn't be happy if he was alive..still..he restored a 1931 ford club c...won national honors at Hershey, PA in 1984..all stock to every nut and bolt..it was bought as a basket case 4 yrs of him restoring it ..great video friend ..my last ford was a 2016 fusion..loved it ..ford rebuilt my trans..it had shifting issues at 48 though mi...now it shifts better now then when I bought new..its a sleeper ..I run 93 gas octane..and ford full synthetic oil.
What do you call INTELLECTUAL AND PRODIGY and SUBSTANTIAL add one more KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is FordTechMakuloco My teacher More information about ford vehicle Brilliant video tutorial amazing thank you for sharing what you know with us. God bless you and all your family around you Take care and have a great day FordTechMakuloco From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I know its mainly a direct injection issue on the ecoboosts with fords, I always wanted to try one of those blaster. As a pick, and brush takes forever. For the ford haters out there that thinks this is just a ford problem it is not. Every single car manufacturer I have worked on has the same issue, to me the kia/hyundai are the worst Brand with this issue. Its also more apparent with people who pretty much idle their car everywhere. Awsome video like usual
You will never convince many people that idling is bad...ditto for letting them warm up before you drive ...I shake my head as folks warm up their car for ten minuets in shirtsleeve weather...
I have a Kia Sedona with the GDI 3.3 V6 and 104K miles, mostly highway. Use Penzoil Platinum synthetic since new and my PCV system and the hoses are bone dry, so that there tells me the oil has a very low VOC and doesn't boil off as bad as crappy oil does. I change the oil at 3K miles and also do the CRC intake and valve cleaner every 25K miles. I have a borescope and the valves are as clean as this Ford's are after the walnut shell service. As long as the engine isn't an oil-burner and the EGR doesn't dump soot into the intake, the valves will stay clean as long as you do some preventative measures. I'm certain the CRC does the job.
@@stevebell4906 My wife will come home off of work in her 15 buick enclave she will sit there idling 15-20 minutes.. Her Buick has the worst valves ive worked on
I’m a heavy line technician at a Cadillac dealership but I’d love to work along side you and learn from you. I’ve always been a ford guy. Currently driving a 19’ lariat 3.5 eco
Walnut hull blasting was also used to clean up parts of the space shuttle solid rocket boosters after they were fished out of the salt water so they could be flown again.
Walnut blasting has been around for many many years it is no big friggin deal and just very costly if an engine is designed correctly to begin with you would never need any walnut blasting
That blaster does a great job. My only question is why are engineers designing engines that are less reliable, require more maintenance which a lot of people won't do, and make them so complicated and impossible to work on? Wouldn't a normally aspirated small V6 be much more reliable than these small turbo engines? Thanks Brian.
also why doesn't carbon build up on the valves of diesel engines? diesels also have direct injection and lack the port injection that keeps the valve clean. why are we suddenly seeing this issues only with petrol GDI engines
Great vid, showing before and after. Nice tip on taping off openings. Learned my leson as a teen, dropped air cleaner wingnut into carb. 👴 Looked everywhere couldn't find it. Until . . . it put a hole in the head and piston 😁
It’s a dog. No power. Great for around town but loaded up ugh. Towing no no. I had one for a rental while my 2.7 was getting warranty work. Mind you it was 4 days but it was terrible. Lots of RUclips videos on it. My rental was with the 6 speed so the new 10 is now in it so it may help a bit. Good luck.👍🏻
I’ve been thinking about doing this as a side gig. There’s nobody in my city who does it. Not even VW. But there’s tons of gdi cars that are gonna need it
So far on my 2014 3.5L ecoboost F150 at 162,000 miles, no issues. Runs strong and smooth. Regular full synthetic oil changes around 4k miles, occasional Hot Shot Secret (HSS) stiction eliminator (maybe twice a year) and HSS fuel treatment maybe once a year, depending.
Thanks for a no nonsense informative channel you have. I’m 68 years old and have worked on cars from child hood. I have a 2019 edge with ecoboost 2.0. It has started misfiring but no engine light. It does it at all speeds. I changed plugs and coils. No help. Dealership says it is a gearing issue. I know a misfire when I have one. The vehicle has around 70k. The carbon issue sounds like my problem. Do Ford dealerships have a factory approved method of cleaning the intake valves the same or similar to your method. I watched the pick and brush method video you supplied? Again thanks for your sharing of information!
My local stealership did my 1.6 Fusion a couple years ago. I asked if Ford had finally released a work instruction other than, "Replace the head". Nope. They wouldn't tell me what they did.
I would schedule an appointment with Brian and drive whatever it takes to get to his shop outside Chicago. He'll do it right and fix your Edge. FYI we have an Edge Sport with the 2.7L running a catch can.
Walnut blasting took out a few ospreys. It was part of the rebuild procedure for the engines and the walnut would get in the oil passages and take the engines out. I think 3 engines failed total before they figured out what was causing it
Crown Victoria and Interceptor never belonged in the same sentence. A regular 3.5 v6 patrol Charger was faster than a Crown “Interceptor”. Might be reliable but it’s not even kind of fast.
40K and it needs a major service. Sad, just sad. That said, I'm not knocking Ford solely, as GDI is prevalent industry-wide. But there had to be some forehand knowledge that this would happen. Guess that's a make-work "solution" for carmaker's in general. It's not a problem if they can make money off it. Anyways, thanks for showing us the process Brian - that walnut media blaster is a great tool. Money well spent.
Thanks for the great video! How many hours of labor would you charge to do this procedure on a 3.5L ecoboost in a F-150? I am just curious because I know I'll need it sooner or later. I wish you were close to where I lived.
@@jasonbrushett2005 Yeah no, I exercised them every drive. Wot once in awhile to make sure 18? boost achievement awards were given to the engine. This was before the 3.5eb was given intake injectors, it was only DFI.
Very Nice Brian.. I just did a 3.5 Ecoboost in a 2016 Transit not long ago myself. Same machine too. Very nice to not have the huge mess like the old school way of blasting. Just a side tip, There are a few 3D printed special fitted nozzles that fit the intake port nice and tight. Not to bad but I found a problem with them, they are too rigid and found a few back ports rather difficult to get the gun into proper position, so I found myself end up using the rubber one that came with the machine. Using a 3D printed neck may work on a 4 cyl but was not helpful on that V6 in a Transit. 🤣 My point was...Don't waste the time n money on the printed necks. 😎👍 Cheers Bud
@@FordTechMakuloco So have you used that printed port adapter yet on a truck.? After using the rubber hose neck that came with the machine, not sure if more printed adapters are even necessary from what I experienced. Maybe some of those strange shaped ports would change my mind...as it may fit and seal up better. I enjoy and love your channel bud.. watched for several years but very mild with the commenting from me. Still get the thumbs up tho, Always. Keep up the great work you do. Cheers 😎👍🍻
I think a few more hoses might fix something. Also make sure the pistons are plastic because of minimizing pumping losses. Because the environment......
This just re-enforces why I won't buy a vehicle with an ecoboost engine. It's pretty sad that you have to have something like this done at such low mileage.
One of the contractors around our area has a fleet of ecoboost f150’s and they have had great luck with them. Many have over 200,000 miles. Nothing other then normal maintenance for all of them. Is the carbon buildup guaranteed on every ecoboost and does it create problems on all of them? I’m just asking since I see so many on the road and I usually hear great things.
Where I work we have a large fleet of 2012ish f150 3.5 eco with high miles now and the fleet manager says the same thing. He said they're way more reliable than the 5.4 they replaced and there are very few no starts that they've had to deal with. It's part of why i was willing to buy one myself
What would a round about pricing could I expect for a walnut blast for a 2.7 ecoboost engine? I know you probably couldn’t get me an exact price but could you come somewhat close?
@@FordTechMakuloco Wow, very affordable, I’ll look locally. I wish I lived closer to you, you really know Fords like the back of your hand. Thanks a ton for all your help
It honestly depends on where you live due to the average hourly rate in your area. Here where I am, Burlingame California, dealers are about $275+/hr and I charge $175/hr in my shop, so this job will be significantly more than $250. If only... there's a way to teleport all my jobs to areas in the country where everything is less expensive hehe..
@@richardc1295 there was a prior comment here of a Ford sr. master tech that runs this same rig at a dealership so just call ones near you with good service center reviews and ask.
Diesel intakes get gummed up worse because they have the oily engine blowby routed into the intake and the deliberate introduction of sooty exhaust into the intake (exhaust gas recirculation). They have higher combustion pressures that may blast any carbon from the valve seats, however.
Once again you have the best instructional video. What would be your recommendation for a fuel additive t0 use on the 2019 5.0 coyote to help keep the valves clean?👍👍
I’m so excited to do this to my ecoboost mustang . I’m at 25k and they have decent amount of build up . I’m also fbo . This has being one of the main issues I being concerned with. I’m positive I’m not pushing above 400 to the wheels so the coolant leak to the cylinder I’m not so worry lol
Added a catch can to the 2.3 in my Ranger. Emptied it yesterday and had some nastiness come out. Unknown if it will prolong time between cleanings or not, but catching something justifies the purchase
What about an aftermarket conversion to switch the direct injection back into a multiport system? I've heard about high end racing setups doing this for increased horsepower. Could a metal block be machined as an intake "spacer" between the intake manifold & the valves with the fuel injectors re-routed into our "spacer ports"? Other than capping off the now unused direct injection ports & getting longer bolts to secure the spacer & intake manifold, is this a viable option? Besides the obious cost to machine custom spacer plates?
The carmakers (all of them) knew exactly what was going to happen with these direct injection engines. And they just didn't give a shit about it. They profit from this insanity. So glad none of the vehicles in my driveway are direct injection.
2014 Explorer sport, had them cleaned about 95k. I have pictures of the valves, and frankly I have no idea how they even worked. It was absolutely terrible, the shop said it's the worst they had seen.
The solution isn’t to do any of this stuff. Manufacturers should use port injection again like they have been for the last few decades since the 1980s.
@@ohger1 it is crazy to me that this crap would be ingested...I know we can't vent it to air, but what about a spin on ....like you said., We just change every once in a while.
@@zaffo757 We both know the answer.. In an era of 10K mile oil changes and "filled for life" transmissions, they don't want to add a maintenance item regardless of how much grief it prevents the owner of the vehicle. Too bad they couldn't integrate it into the air cleaner as a one piece module .. LOL.
The carbon canisters still exist, generally hidden somewhere sneaky. They're part of the EVAP system that stops.fuel vapour escaping from the tank vent.
@@ohger1 so true. the MFR and the EPA really have ZERO interest in engines lasting more than 4-5 years. Eventually they are going to want to "lease" us the power unit and be forced to turn it in for replacement every couple of years...like they did with diesel in commercial trucks in CA
Putting the GDI cleaner through the PCV valve intake is the best way to go. Because just like you said, the carbon builds up from that point, so what better point to introduce the cleaner, you know?
Great video! I always learn something with every single video you make. How do you feel about catch-cans? I heard they can help prevent this issue...is that actually correct? Or is it just marketing? Thanks!
When I was at Ford back in the late 90s and early 2000s we/I came up with a chemical cleaning procedure and did the job with the head still on the engine. we used Fords EGR cleaning chemical and Fords or it could have been a BG product, intake manifold cleaning chemical and had good results witch cured the hesitation on tip in throttle. It was cleaned with the valve closed and a vacuum pulled out all the goo.
Back in the mid 2000s my best friend was experiencing drivability issues with his Mercedes. The dealer had advised that carbon buildup was the culprit and performed a "de-carbonization" process. They recommended using Techron and more highway miles to abate the issue. He swapped vehicles with his wife who had an all highway daily commute as his commute was stop and go. He ended up getting rid of the Mercedes once the warranty was up. I often pondered why this car experienced this issue. It had a turbocharged engine. It must have had A GDI injection system.
A proper catch can with 1-way check valves will help with oil consumption. With one vacuum line before the turbo and 1 after the throttle body for proper vacuum to lower crankcase pressure. I've used jb induction cleaning on my focus. I have a na focus, and draining my catch can every 5k I find oil in my can. I'm in my second catalytic converter with 120k miles, with a total of 224k miles. I think it's time to take my intake off and inspect my valves again. If you're curious what catch can system I use, I run tracy lewis performance large catch can that I can take a part and reseal with new o rings. I use brake clean to clean out my can every 30k miles.
Great demo on a great working device. How would that work on a V6 3.5 on a transit van? Do you have 90 degree bend attachments for the different orientation of the engine?
This is the Walnut Media Blaster Machine I use-
amzn.to/3CsdpuA
Walnut Shell Blasting Media-
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Manual Carbon Cleaning Method-
ruclips.net/video/JoK1rGipeKw/видео.html&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
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How much is this cleaning?? I don’t want to get over charged
I believe the latest 3.5 and 2.7 eco boost have have gone to duel injection system port and direct injection to help with the problem of direct injection
How does the intake gasket come off? Do you recommend a new intake gasket after this service?
Digger is correct. Having worked in engineering development for many years, technicians certainly reported this issue. Management suppressed it.
Ah yes. Ford back to their own ways.
Sad. It’s a bad design on paper. Even worse is the gasket and coolant between the cylinders. Horrible
Totally correct Jack, and sad that it’s very preventable if they wanted to. But likely nothing will be improved now as ICE is abandoned for the brave new world of all EV.
@@DieselRamcharger I understand that is the popular opinion in much of the consumer world but I can tell you without a doubt after 40 years in the industry that is not the case. The 3/36 warranty period is simply a cost vs benefit calculation that has nothing to do with engineering life. The parts and cars are held to a strict 10yr/150K miles standard or more. We design to this as our minimum and ruggedly test to that standard. The fact that we have a design flaw that was missed/ignored does not mean there was malicious intent to get to end of warranty and not one second more. It’s a design mistake and a mistake by management to not fix it in a timely fashion. And now with the push to all EV I doubt anything else will be done and leave it to service procedures like the walnut blaster.
@@380.motorsports Eventually, we will conclude that EV's are a pipe dream for at least the next 50 years. The energy is not available in the grid for 150,000,000 people to get home from work and plug in their 230 volt, 50 amp chargers every afternoon.
Mindmills won't do it, solar won't do it. We will need to at least double the current amount of generated power that we have now.
That is, if there were enough lithium for that many batteries, which there isn't.
Wishful thinking only goes so far, then reality takes over.
Those in charge are fully aware but are in too deep to be honest.
We did a similar process on the F-4 fighter. There is a large hopper put on the intake and filled with walnut shells, run the engine to about 90% and start putting the shells through the intake. The first time we did this (1966 when the F-4's were pretty new to the USAF) the procedures for this process did not address the exhaust containing the fast moving walnut shells coming out the rear at high enough speed to de-paint the flight line tool shed building. We were tasked to paint the building. lol,now
You need to tell that story on your channel.
I bet you have more that will be entertaining.
Engineering is dope, my Uncle Jim was a high up engineer at chrysler and designed most the stuff you see on the challengers and chargers etc.
Yes Audi has running cars fed walnut shells car runs n no wand necessary no wasting time removing part also I'd say it cleans intake also it's gotta!!!!
I bet the shed looked nice afterward!!
2013 f150 3.5 owner here. 165k km’s. Been a great truck. I can never skip even a second of what this man has to say. Such a knowledgeable mechanic.
Yup, never owned a Ford before - picked up a 2013 Flex. After a few studders of the transmission, I found Brian and found out the transmission fluid should be changed every 30k. At over 226k... I immediately got to work.
I've been watching EVERY video of his because it seems like there is a lot of info that applies across the board with the current generation of Fords. My Flex doesn't even have EcoBoost - but here I am watching and learning.
I’m a senior master tech at a Ford dealership and I bought this same blaster back in January and have been cleaning valves on Focus ST’s every since. Thanks for the video.
Just out of curiosity, have you seen the same issue on any Explorer STs? We bought one and I've been reading about the need for a catch can, but I don't want to do anything that can void the warranty.
Has anyone tried rerouting the pcv hose to the intake box under the filter so this carbon gets sucked into air filter before it’s sucked into the motor. Just a idea after watching this
@@piratius just do the catch can, the dealers and techs are aware of them and know what they do.
@@semajniffirg230 Catch cans do NOT solve the issues with this.
We've had years and years of evidence to prove otherwise. The issue happens as a result of combustion NOT simply blowby.
@@orangejjayI know it doesn't solve it, it definitely does help slpw it down though.
Just had my ST intake valves blasted by Brian, and it fixed my P0316, P0300, and P0302 misfire codes!
Thanks! ...to both Brian and especially the front office at BSG Automotive for taking care of me (and my 2018 Ford Raptor).
Brian, many thanks to you for motivating me at almost age 70 to address this on my 2013 Ford Focus ST. Of the three methods you described: media blasting, manually picking the carbon off the valves, and chemicals, I chose the manual method. Your caution about the chemical cleaning having an effect on the turbo bearings and seals steered me away from that method. Brush sets were easily and modestly acquired from Amazon. Bending a 180 degree end on some to the brushes allowed me to reach behind the valve stem to attack those deposits. I can verify that cylinders 2 and 3 had the most intake runner/intake valve oil accumulation. Previous owner had installed an oil catch can that I replaced with a better model afterwards. I used 1/8" wooden dowels inserted in each cylinder and my able assistant to verify when #1 was at the top of the compression stroke. The manual method might sound like the least efficient method, but when I was finished blowing out all 4 cylinders, even after covering the intake runner with a wet rag, there were carbon pieces EVERYWHERE, except down the taped off intake ports! For at home valve cleaning with no possible harm to the turbocharger at minimum cost this seems pretty efficient. Thanks again for the motivation and easy to understand explanations and techniques to follow.
To add to EL ROBO's comment, the A-7E Corsair I flew in the US Navy used walnut blasting to clean out the turbine on the miserable TF-41 engine that airplane was saddled with.
You are by far the best mechanic on RUclips, especially when it comes to Ford vehicles.
Agree. AKA He's Mr. Ford. Henry Ford would've loved him. Lol
I have a video on my channel of my wife's 2013 Fusion (2.0L ecoboost) and how it looked at 32K miles when I walnut blasted the valves. I installed an oil catch can and it seems to have improved the carbon buildup, but it certainly hasn't eliminated it.
I cannot believe THAT is what a walnut blaster looks like. I fully thought this was a giant production of a system and just well beyond my scale of give-a-shit. Excellent news, man. Good video, and I don't even go here.
Wow, all that on 40k miles (I don't call that a lot) enjoy your channel and all your knowledge. Thanks for your time
Nice presentation! good to see that you masked it off thumbs up! The most cost efficient means for me to de sludge the ports is remove the intake and soak in degreaser, while it’s soaking clean each port of the head with a hot wash or degreaser and pressure washer but close each valve obviously and scrape and wash the manifold and that way there’s no risk of missed sludge causing a lock up,seen bent rods from a bad chemical clean dislodging a large enough piece of sludge to hurt!
Amazing how simple and easy this cleans it, but the prep, dismantling and reassembling is time consuming and a PIA 😃 Great video 👍😎
Literally took 10 min to remove the intake.
@@FordTechMakuloco Sure, for you! For me…a bit longer 🤣Either way, good post 👍
@@FordTechMakuloco how much to do a 2016 f150 3.5 eco boost? I have over 200,000 and no issues.. ✊ 🪵
What about a 2017 2.7 f150 STX? Is it the same approach?
Love your videos and your explanations on what your doing in them..One of the BEST car fix channels period. Major props to you.
I'm a tick over 60k. I'll wait until the block splits and then I won't have to worry about this. 😬
Thanks for explaining this process so thoroughly! 👋😎👍
I have a 2010 SHO (3.5) with 130k+ and had valves that I’m pretty sure were never cleaned in it’s lifetime. It’s amazing how much buildup was on the valves and what a difference walnut blasting did to them. I had a misfire on cylinder 4 (usually at WOT) I couldn’t figure out and I’m pretty sure this was the cause.
Did you do it yourself? Or did you pay someone to do it?
Did it myself, probably took me 4 hours but someone more experienced could get it done in shorter time. I bought a siphon feed media blaster from Amazon and the walnut from harbor freight.
@@lild123 thanks for the reply. Just got a 2015 Taurus police interceptor Ecoboost with 89k miles. I’m curious to see how bad the carbon build up is because obviously it was driven hard it’s entire life and I’ve been told that helps prevent buildup.
@@Transitional-Authority I believe on standard injection vehicles, giving it the beans will help keep the valves clean but I think direct injection cars are a different story. I could be wrong
@@lild123 that would make sense to me given that there is no solvent on the back of the valves regardless.
Funny how in the 1960's, you had to do wrench maintenance every 10~20K miles, adjust points, replace spark plugs, wires.... then we got engines running so clean and efficient that they were pretty much maintenance free until 100K miles and all you had to do was change the oil....now we are going backwards to where you have to do "wrench" maintenance on an engine every 40K miles.
@@tribulationprepper787 It's because of emissions laws, otherwise EGR wouldn't even exist.
"Routine" maintenance on a typical Ford engine now includes: timing chain replacement, cam phaser replacement, exhaust manifold stud replacement, plastic oil pan replacement, valve de-carbonizing, etc. Moderate maintenance includes engine block or entire engine replacement. All before 100k miles. Total disgrace.
With the climate cult running the show we won't be using internal combustion engines much longer. In the future we'll be calling the blacksmith to reshoe our horses.
@@bradduda4300Chevy’s turbo four cylinders don’t require maintenance like that before 100k, because you’re replacing the engine way before then lmao
Do u recommend the chemical induction cleaner as a preventative maintenance once the valves are cleaned or clean from brand new ( non turbo motor ) ? Even tho the cleaner might not hit every cylinder as well depending on intake design like u stated? I also understand mechanical cleaning is best . I wild worry about sensors failing or catalytic convert issues from the chemicals ? Thanx .
Back in my Army days as a CE, we used to use crushed walnut shells mixed with laundry detergent to clean out our jet turbine engines on our helicopters. Easy enough to do, and with the help of my door gunner and pilot, it took less then an hour from start to finish. But in late 1970 we had to stop doing that as the crushed walnut shells was cracking the compressor blades and that was causing catastrophic engine failure while flying combat missions. I have no idea what or if a solution was found for douching out our turbines.
We use a highly caustic chemical solution now that dissolves the carbon by flushing it through the hot and cold sections of the turbine, then rinse with water, then start the engine to dry it out. I've been a CE on Hawks for ten years now.
I my world the simple solution it to just get a different engine. Any engine that needs to have valves cleaned every 40 to 60 K needs an engineering change. Keep the good stuff coming.
agree
My daughter has a 3.5 Ecoboost with turbos, I've tried explaining the carbon buildup issues they have down the road , but it's like talking to the wall , so I sent this video to her, maybe she will listen to what you have to say about carbon build up....
She won't watch it , hmmm how do I know this ?
I'm interested as well, I have an f150 Ecoboost with just over 100k, and it has some oil in the intake, I try to clean the sensors often, need to get the catch can for it
Catch can is good or crc intake cleaner every so often. Toyotas new engines have a dual injector system set up. They alternate to keep the carbob out
Tell her not to brush her teeth for a couple days and how they get built up with plaque, the valves get built up with carbon.
@@Jacob1986 the newer 3.5 has a supplemental port injector to mitigate this... I can't recall what year it was implemented, though. (345k on my 2011... haven't inspected for carbon yet)
Pretty kool to see walnut being used to in an automotive application. Considering how well it cleans and polishes my spent ammo casing’s. Never even thought about it’s use in automotive
8/24/22. Always love your content &video presentations. Great clear speech & communication to we (Ford) YT viewers describing in detail & camera close ups. Appreciate the time you take to do your research, camera set ups, lighting & sound management in an automotive garage environment. Just another great job! Also hope your family 👪 new baby all doing well! . Stay safe & carry on sir!👍👍👍⚙🛠🍺😊
YES! Back in the late 70's/early 80's - this was a popular "treatment" in the GM engines which had severe carbon build-up issues....about 15+ year ago I mentioned this to a friend of mine who is a MSE at a Ford dealer when he was talking about this issue with the EB engines and there was officially "no fix" other than pulling the heads...... he agreed, if he could only find an old machine out there! GRIN
Former GM tech here. The product you speak of is GM Top Engine Cleaner. This stuff was very effective in cleaning carbon out of an engine. It was originally intended for carbureted engines. However, we were able to use it on the early EFI engines by mixing it 50:50 with gas, then fill a pressure cleaner like the BG one in this video. We'd connect the pressure cleaner to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. We then disabled the fuel pump, then started the engine and allowed it to run off the pressurized bottle. Once the bottle was empty, engine would stop. Enable the fuel pump and take the car for a road test. Shop foreman made us do these cleanings outside the shop, as the Top Engine Cleaner would create tremendous smoke and it stank like a truck full of rotten eggs.
@@xeutoniumnyborg1192 THANKYOU!!!!!!! I ken someone with a litle gray hear would remember this "tool"!!!!!
love your work man. you should teach later on in your career. you have a knack for it
I added an oil separator to our 2015 2.3 EB Mustang early on. It collects maybe 2 Oz. between oil changes. Will see if this mitigates build up.
Toyota knew this was going to be an issue. Their 3.5L. It has 2 fuel systems, direct and port.
I am curious about the oil separator also
@@fivepin55 Gen 3 coyote's are the same way
@@shankeriv1301 As are the current EB 3.5s.
@@fivepin55 I believe that VW's EA888 has dual injection in Europe as well (not in the US market).
I took your advice and invested in the RXP catch can system. Installed on a brand new 2020 F-150 EcoBoost. So far not a hint of trouble. It catches approximately 2 oz every 3,000 MI
I was thinking about an eco boost but this specific issue gives me pause. I wonder why it is that catch cans are so effective but none of the manufacturers employ them as standard equipment? Thoughts?
@@rbailey225 Cost, issues surface after warranty is up so Ford doesn't care. They like that it sends more work to the dealership network and increases revenue from parts sales.
@@rbailey225 Probably worried customers will not service them !!
The EPA has found an effective way to deal with the waste oil. That is to send it back through your engine no matter what it cost you. Catch cans pose the problem of what to do with the waste oil.
@@garyalford9394 they can be engineered to route caught oil back into system.
Funny how we've come full-circle. I remember the, Tempo I believe, that had the intake build-up issues. The dealership I worked at had the factory Walnut Shell blaster, back then.
Nothing funny about it. Ford just wants to sell cars so the average owner figures that since their car is old it's supposed to run like crap and they trade it in for a new one. No engineering department is this stupid, this is planned.
After purchasing our 2018 Edge in 2020 @ 45k miles, I used solvent and picks to clean the valves. Immediately after, I installed an oil catch can between the crankcase breather and the intake manifold. When I replaced the engine @ 115k (notorious coolant channel defect) the intake valves had virtually no carbon buildup at all. The only thing I hate is having to empty the can when it gets full every couple weeks. The garbage that is being pumped into the intake of these engines is astonishing and it's no wonder the valves crust up.
I like the feedback on using a catch can. I've been looking for a before and after video of someone who has installed one but I have yet to see that video.
That whole situation is something that should have shown up in the Engineering and testing phase of development, they could have added external cleaning injectors. Sounds costly, but look at all the gizmos that are added to lower emissions. The old 1970's air injector system comes to mind . They charge so much for new vehicles but care not about longevity and the investment by the people buying them. I had a 2010 f150 lariat supercrew that the cab bottom rotted off along with the bed support runners, very sad Engineering. I think they made them out of pre rusted steel before going all aluminum. $ 50,000 rust bucket.
I find ALL Ford products lack any real corrosion protection, from bolts to body panels.
it prob did show up but they shrugged and decided "welp, we are selling cars after all , right? "
The solution was simple. add more injectors .... that's the real solution. this is just a remedy as the problem will still exist.
some companies sell a multi port fuel rail addon and with some ecu programming and a tuner , one could really fix the issue. Some crazy ppls already have. but their goal was a bit different but arrived at the same conclusion
I'm not surprised a clueless boomer would say something so dumb, yes add extra injectors to inject more fuel when the entire point of a direct injected engine is to save fuel. And who would of guessed if you didnt want your truck to rot you should of used a fluid film treatment. Complete clown
I know for a fact that Ford did much better in coating their car bodies during the 60's and 70's and zinc plating fasteners. I inspected a one-year old 2018 Ford Focus and thanks to some collision damage I could see lots of corrosion in the floor area of body. Strange and disconcerting
@@jamesmedina2062 I have seen one year old Ford Explorers on this channel that had rust that my 12-year-old Nissan doesn't even have!
I’m a idiot about most things including mechanical stuff, I was born without the tightening Gene, means I break it off or not tight enough, but I love this guys videos. I have a 2017 2.7 Ecoboost powered F150, put a JTL catch can on it and at 87k running great.
Great video. Very informative. Thanks for showing the before and after and how bad they can get.
Showing the valves after the "first pass" really showed how thick the deposits were too, Brian's stuff is always top notch.
I wish you guys were closer! I live in northern IL and you guys are about 1.5hours away from me. I definitely feel like I need this done on my 14 fusion 2.0, bought it at 44k and it’s got 85k on it now and I don’t think it’s ever been done before I got it. Awesome video, thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I'm currently going thru the timing chain replacement on my 5.4 3v following your serie of four episodes. Thanks a lot, like someone said in a comment, your you tube channel is better than Netflix. 👍
It's nice to know you know fords..inside and out..my dad was a service station owner way back in the day..Fords were is fav too..things have changed alot over the yrs..its sad ford has this issues with this engine..not good engineering on theses intakes..my dad probably wouldn't be happy if he was alive..still..he restored a 1931 ford club c...won national honors at Hershey, PA in 1984..all stock to every nut and bolt..it was bought as a basket case 4 yrs of him restoring it ..great video friend ..my last ford was a 2016 fusion..loved it ..ford rebuilt my trans..it had shifting issues at 48 though mi...now it shifts better now then when I bought new..its a sleeper ..I run 93 gas octane..and ford full synthetic oil.
Hopefully the RXP catch can I installed on my 18 Explorer Sport will help avoid those issues!
Yes indeed!!
What do you call INTELLECTUAL AND PRODIGY and SUBSTANTIAL add one more KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is
FordTechMakuloco
My teacher
More information about ford vehicle
Brilliant video tutorial amazing thank you for sharing what you know with us. God bless you and all your family around you
Take care and have a great day
FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I know its mainly a direct injection issue on the ecoboosts with fords, I always wanted to try one of those blaster. As a pick, and brush takes forever. For the ford haters out there that thinks this is just a ford problem it is not. Every single car manufacturer I have worked on has the same issue, to me the kia/hyundai are the worst Brand with this issue. Its also more apparent with people who pretty much idle their car everywhere. Awsome video like usual
It's a big issue on the 2.0t and 2.5l gdis on hyundais and kias too.
You will never convince many people that idling is bad...ditto for letting them warm up before you drive ...I shake my head as folks warm up their car for ten minuets in shirtsleeve weather...
I have a Kia Sedona with the GDI 3.3 V6 and 104K miles, mostly highway. Use Penzoil Platinum synthetic since new and my PCV system and the hoses are bone dry, so that there tells me the oil has a very low VOC and doesn't boil off as bad as crappy oil does. I change the oil at 3K miles and also do the CRC intake and valve cleaner every 25K miles. I have a borescope and the valves are as clean as this Ford's are after the walnut shell service. As long as the engine isn't an oil-burner and the EGR doesn't dump soot into the intake, the valves will stay clean as long as you do some preventative measures. I'm certain the CRC does the job.
@@stevebell4906 My wife will come home off of work in her 15 buick enclave she will sit there idling 15-20 minutes.. Her Buick has the worst valves ive worked on
I’m a heavy line technician at a Cadillac dealership but I’d love to work along side you and learn from you. I’ve always been a ford guy. Currently driving a 19’ lariat 3.5 eco
Walnut hull blasting was also used to clean up parts of the space shuttle solid rocket boosters after they were fished out of the salt water so they could be flown again.
Walnut blasting has been around for many many years it is no big friggin deal and just very costly if an engine is designed correctly to begin with you would never need any walnut blasting
*at massive taxpayer expense.
Impressive! Never knew a tool like this existed. It sure beats a pick and a brush. 👍
Corksport sells the perfect tool to use for this too.
That blaster does a great job. My only question is why are engineers designing engines that are less reliable, require more maintenance which a lot of people won't do, and make them so complicated and impossible to work on? Wouldn't a normally aspirated small V6 be much more reliable than these small turbo engines? Thanks Brian.
also why doesn't carbon build up on the valves of diesel engines? diesels also have direct injection and lack the port injection that keeps the valve clean. why are we suddenly seeing this issues only with petrol GDI engines
All these issues are from the EPA and companies using thinner oil.
Fuel economy and emissions. That's it.
Never vote Democrat. There, problem solved!
Thank a tree hugger. "Green New Maintenance"
Great vid, showing before and after.
Nice tip on taping off openings.
Learned my leson as a teen, dropped air cleaner wingnut into carb. 👴 Looked everywhere couldn't find it. Until . . . it put a hole in the head and piston 😁
I'd love to hear your thoughts on the 3.3 liter NA engine. I don't need the extra power and am seriously considering going with it in a new f150
It’s a dog. No power. Great for around town but loaded up ugh. Towing no no. I had one for a rental while my 2.7 was getting warranty work. Mind you it was 4 days but it was terrible. Lots of RUclips videos on it. My rental was with the 6 speed so the new 10 is now in it so it may help a bit. Good luck.👍🏻
I’ve been thinking about doing this as a side gig. There’s nobody in my city who does it. Not even VW. But there’s tons of gdi cars that are gonna need it
So far on my 2014 3.5L ecoboost F150 at 162,000 miles, no issues. Runs strong and smooth. Regular full synthetic oil changes around 4k miles, occasional Hot Shot Secret (HSS) stiction eliminator (maybe twice a year) and HSS fuel treatment maybe once a year, depending.
Maybe not an direct injection engine
@@richardbolitho It is, 3.5 L TwinTurbo direct injection eco-boost engine
Thanks for a no nonsense informative channel you have. I’m 68 years old and have worked on cars from child hood. I have a 2019 edge with ecoboost 2.0. It has started misfiring but no engine light. It does it at all speeds. I changed plugs and coils. No help. Dealership says it is a gearing issue. I know a misfire when I have one. The vehicle has around 70k. The carbon issue sounds like my problem. Do Ford dealerships have a factory approved method of cleaning the intake valves the same or similar to your method. I watched the pick and brush method video you supplied? Again thanks for your sharing of information!
My local stealership did my 1.6 Fusion a couple years ago. I asked if Ford had finally released a work instruction other than, "Replace the head". Nope. They wouldn't tell me what they did.
I would schedule an appointment with Brian and drive whatever it takes to get to his shop outside Chicago. He'll do it right and fix your Edge. FYI we have an Edge Sport with the 2.7L running a catch can.
Walnut blasting took out a few ospreys. It was part of the rebuild procedure for the engines and the walnut would get in the oil passages and take the engines out. I think 3 engines failed total before they figured out what was causing it
Another video that makes me feel better about my 3.7 liter F150...
A catchcan will help prevent buildup. Ive got one on my 19 F150 5.0
Thanks Brian nice work as always.
Here's another good reason why I drive a Crown Victoria Interceptor V8.
Crown Victoria and Interceptor never belonged in the same sentence. A regular 3.5 v6 patrol Charger was faster than a Crown “Interceptor”.
Might be reliable but it’s not even kind of fast.
40K and it needs a major service. Sad, just sad. That said, I'm not knocking Ford solely, as GDI is prevalent industry-wide. But there had to be some forehand knowledge that this would happen. Guess that's a make-work "solution" for carmaker's in general. It's not a problem if they can make money off it.
Anyways, thanks for showing us the process Brian - that walnut media blaster is a great tool. Money well spent.
mercedes does not have this problem. they use a centrifuge driven off the cam to seperate the solids form the vapor.
Ford tried to mitigate this issue when they transitioned to DI by equipping sodium filled valves. It was better, but not perfect, obviously.
That's why people install an oil catch can, to prevent build up on the intake valves! Especially with direct injection engines.
Thanks for the great video! How many hours of labor would you charge to do this procedure on a 3.5L ecoboost in a F-150? I am just curious because I know I'll need it sooner or later. I wish you were close to where I lived.
My local dealer mentioned to check the turbos too, around 100k waste gate potential problems soon
@@JasonW. you will never have waste gate issues if you drive that engine hard every so often to keep the waste gate linkage from seizing
@@jasonbrushett2005 Yeah no, I exercised them every drive. Wot once in awhile to make sure 18? boost achievement awards were given to the engine.
This was before the 3.5eb was given intake injectors, it was only DFI.
Have you ever done a before and after dyno test to determine the power and efficiency gained through this process?
Very Nice Brian.. I just did a 3.5 Ecoboost in a 2016 Transit not long ago myself. Same machine too. Very nice to not have the huge mess like the old school way of blasting. Just a side tip, There are a few 3D printed special fitted nozzles that fit the intake port nice and tight. Not to bad but I found a problem with them, they are too rigid and found a few back ports rather difficult to get the gun into proper position, so I found myself end up using the rubber one that came with the machine. Using a 3D printed neck may work on a 4 cyl but was not helpful on that V6 in a Transit. 🤣 My point was...Don't waste the time n money on the printed necks. 😎👍
Cheers Bud
I have the custom fitted 3d printed port adapter for the 3.5L eco but need to buy one for the 4cyl engines yet.
@@FordTechMakuloco So have you used that printed port adapter yet on a truck.?
After using the rubber hose neck that came with the machine, not sure if more printed adapters are even necessary from what I experienced. Maybe some of those strange shaped ports would change my mind...as it may fit and seal up better.
I enjoy and love your channel bud.. watched for several years but very mild with the commenting from me. Still get the thumbs up tho, Always.
Keep up the great work you do.
Cheers 😎👍🍻
Another awesome video! I truly appreciate the details that you provide. Very clear, & concise. 👍👍👍👍👍
I ordered a Maverick with the hybrid drivetrain because of this specific issue instead of the eco boost.
I think a few more hoses might fix something. Also make sure the pistons are plastic because of minimizing pumping losses. Because the environment......
This just re-enforces why I won't buy a vehicle with an ecoboost engine. It's pretty sad that you have to have something like this done at such low mileage.
215k on mt 2011 3.5 ecoboost. Its not an issue.
that's a lot neater than i managed to do it on a couple gm v8's and v6's..........thanks for that idea sir!
One of the contractors around our area has a fleet of ecoboost f150’s and they have had great luck with them. Many have over 200,000 miles. Nothing other then normal maintenance for all of them. Is the carbon buildup guaranteed on every ecoboost and does it create problems on all of them? I’m just asking since I see so many on the road and I usually hear great things.
Where I work we have a large fleet of 2012ish f150 3.5 eco with high miles now and the fleet manager says the same thing. He said they're way more reliable than the 5.4 they replaced and there are very few no starts that they've had to deal with. It's part of why i was willing to buy one myself
Some of the ecoboost have both port and direct injection. From my understanding all the V6 2nd gen ecoboost and newer.
That Media Blaster Setup Is The Bees Knees Brian 😮😀😮
What would a round about pricing could I expect for a walnut blast for a 2.7 ecoboost engine?
I know you probably couldn’t get me an exact price but could you come somewhat close?
I charge $250 for a 3.5L eco so I imagine the 2.7L would be similar.
I would think more than $250 given that rear bank is hard to get to on the 2.7L. If I'm wrong then that's a terrific price! 🥳
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks buddy
I have had two Ecoboost Ford Escapes, but I found a way around this problem. I bought a 2021 Escape Hybrid.
Awesome! How much $ cost could one expect to blast a 3.5 eco boost? Really impressive results.
$250
@@FordTechMakuloco Wow, very affordable, I’ll look locally. I wish I lived closer to you, you really know Fords like the back of your hand. Thanks a ton for all your help
It honestly depends on where you live due to the average hourly rate in your area. Here where I am, Burlingame California, dealers are about $275+/hr and I charge $175/hr in my shop, so this job will be significantly more than $250. If only... there's a way to teleport all my jobs to areas in the country where everything is less expensive hehe..
@@FordTechMakuloco is this a service I can get at my local Ford dealership or is this just something that certain shops like yours offers?
@@richardc1295 there was a prior comment here of a Ford sr. master tech that runs this same rig at a dealership so just call ones near you with good service center reviews and ask.
Thanks, I was just looking for the best tool to clean GDI engines. Great video as usual!!
Nobody ever answers this question.
Diesels dont wash their valves with fuel either, so why don't they suffer from this?
Good question.
Diesel intakes get gummed up worse because they have the oily engine blowby routed into the intake and the deliberate introduction of sooty exhaust into the intake (exhaust gas recirculation). They have higher combustion pressures that may blast any carbon from the valve seats, however.
Once again you have the best instructional video. What would be your recommendation for a fuel additive t0 use on the 2019 5.0 coyote to help keep the valves clean?👍👍
No
Job security in the name of the green fantasy of saving a few ounces of fuel.
I’m so excited to do this to my ecoboost mustang . I’m at 25k and they have decent amount of build up . I’m also fbo . This has being one of the main issues I being concerned with. I’m positive I’m not pushing above 400 to the wheels so the coolant leak to the cylinder I’m not so worry lol
What is the typical cost to get this job done at a shop?
I was quoted $1200 from a local shop for my 3.5
@@ryanrudolph1050 I just received a quote of $895 CAD for my G80 Sport. Wow $1200.
@@ryanrudolph1050 What is the mileage on yours?
@@Blue-moon12 133K
Added a catch can to the 2.3 in my Ranger. Emptied it yesterday and had some nastiness come out. Unknown if it will prolong time between cleanings or not, but catching something justifies the purchase
What about an aftermarket conversion to switch the direct injection back into a multiport system? I've heard about high end racing setups doing this for increased horsepower. Could a metal block be machined as an intake "spacer" between the intake manifold & the valves with the fuel injectors re-routed into our "spacer ports"? Other than capping off the now unused direct injection ports & getting longer bolts to secure the spacer & intake manifold, is this a viable option? Besides the obious cost to machine custom spacer plates?
This video is great! But ideally, I would only want to do this once, then fix a poorly designed system so it doesn't need it again & again.
That was interesting to see how it's done. Great video
The carmakers (all of them) knew exactly what was going to happen with these direct injection engines. And they just didn't give a shit about it. They profit from this insanity. So glad none of the vehicles in my driveway are direct injection.
As always, you do a great job!!
can't we just add a TBI injector to the intake and not have to worry about this? run it for a few minutes every drive.
Toyota, for instance, now has this very system. And injector ahead of the valve, as well as GDI. Best of both worlds.
Thank you...I've heard of this process but hadn't seen it. My first thought was "blasting walnut shells into an engine"?
I would like to see this on a 3.5 ecoboost twin turbo. Mileage, condition pre and post clean.
2014 Explorer sport, had them cleaned about 95k. I have pictures of the valves, and frankly I have no idea how they even worked. It was absolutely terrible, the shop said it's the worst they had seen.
Nice video and thanks. Are you seeing this buildup on the 1.0 ecoboost as well?
The solution isn’t to do any of this stuff. Manufacturers should use port injection again like they have been for the last few decades since the 1980s.
Excellent video
The more I watch these videos it makes we want to pass on Ford in my next vehicle purchase
Ford fixed this problem. 2018 and newer.
We'll fill your head on YT about other vehicle manufacturers junk.
@@Amen.22 what did they do? Did they go back to port injection?
I can hear Henry Ford right now
“ what in heck you mean walnut blasting intakes !??!??? , was this Edsel’s idea again ? “
shouldn't we just try and trap all these fumes and vapor before it ever gets to the intake? Catch can?
LOL, I was thinking about the old style carbon canisters they used to use for emissions. Put a quick disconnect on it and change it every 25K miles.
@@ohger1 it is crazy to me that this crap would be ingested...I know we can't vent it to air, but what about a spin on ....like you said., We just change every once in a while.
@@zaffo757 We both know the answer.. In an era of 10K mile oil changes and "filled for life" transmissions, they don't want to add a maintenance item regardless of how much grief it prevents the owner of the vehicle. Too bad they couldn't integrate it into the air cleaner as a one piece module .. LOL.
The carbon canisters still exist, generally hidden somewhere sneaky. They're part of the EVAP system that stops.fuel vapour escaping from the tank vent.
@@ohger1 so true. the MFR and the EPA really have ZERO interest in engines lasting more than 4-5 years. Eventually they are going to want to "lease" us the power unit and be forced to turn it in for replacement every couple of years...like they did with diesel in commercial trucks in CA
Putting the GDI cleaner through the PCV valve intake is the best way to go. Because just like you said, the carbon builds up from that point, so what better point to introduce the cleaner, you know?
Or stop with the turbo’d engines and all the CAFE madness.
Carbon blasting has been around for a while . I was blasting BMW and Volvo in the eighties.
Yes, we are all aware of the early DI technology in the Audi and BMW vehicles.
You do fantastic work, Great Quality. “Thank You” ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Great video, this is something I definitely need for my 2011 F150 EB. When I did my timing chain with your video series, I saw how terrible the are.
Great video! I always learn something with every single video you make. How do you feel about catch-cans? I heard they can help prevent this issue...is that actually correct? Or is it just marketing? Thanks!
He's done video of the catch can addition previously, look back in the playlist at least a year or two .
When I was at Ford back in the late 90s and early 2000s we/I came up with a chemical cleaning procedure and did the job with the head still on the engine. we used Fords EGR cleaning chemical and Fords or it could have been a BG product, intake manifold cleaning chemical and had good results witch cured the hesitation on tip in throttle. It was cleaned with the valve closed and a vacuum pulled out all the goo.
Back in the mid 2000s my best friend was experiencing drivability issues with his Mercedes. The dealer had advised that carbon buildup was the culprit and performed a "de-carbonization" process. They recommended using Techron and more highway miles to abate the issue. He swapped vehicles with his wife who had an all highway daily commute as his commute was stop and go. He ended up getting rid of the Mercedes once the warranty was up. I often pondered why this car experienced this issue. It had a turbocharged engine. It must have had A GDI injection system.
Or it had lots of blow by getting into pcv
A proper catch can with 1-way check valves will help with oil consumption. With one vacuum line before the turbo and 1 after the throttle body for proper vacuum to lower crankcase pressure. I've used jb induction cleaning on my focus. I have a na focus, and draining my catch can every 5k I find oil in my can. I'm in my second catalytic converter with 120k miles, with a total of 224k miles. I think it's time to take my intake off and inspect my valves again. If you're curious what catch can system I use, I run tracy lewis performance large catch can that I can take a part and reseal with new o rings. I use brake clean to clean out my can every 30k miles.
reasonable price and works good=winner
Wow, what an improvement.
The walnut media blaster system is a similar technology to a brass / rock tumbler, using coated walnut media to clean and smooth minerals, or brass.
You are a hero to many! Keep up the good fight.
Great demo on a great working device. How would that work on a V6 3.5 on a transit van? Do you have 90 degree bend attachments for the different orientation of the engine?