Fix Your 3D Printer First Layer Issues | Z Offset Calibration | 3D Printing
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- #3dprinting #3Dprinter #tutorial
ROUGH, BUBBLY or WAVY FIRST LAYER ISSUES and PROBLEMS on your 3D PRINTER? In this video I will show you How to Fix the waves and gaps in your 3d printers first layer with this easy Z OFFSET CALIBRATION
Link to first layer Calibration STL on Printables: printables.com...
How to level your bed: • How to Level Your Ende...
How to Calibrate your E-Steps: • 3D Printer E-Step Cali...
Great guide. I Needed to lower the nozzle down much more than expected, but I now have a great looking smooth first layer. Thanks
THX FOR SHARE THIS. My first layer is perfect now !
Printer: Ender 3 V3 SE
Z Offset before ajust: -2.57
Z-Offset after ajust: -2.67
perfect layers! Thx
This was incredibly easy and useful. Thank you!
Simple, straight to the point, great pictures, perfection. This is my new go-to when i come across someone having issues with z offset.
Wow, thanks for this video great job. I have been struggling to get my prints to stick to the bed consistently, followed your advice in this video and used your layer test and now I get great bed adhesion everytime. thanks again
Very simple, very easy to understand and straight to the point examples that helps a lot!
I have really enjoyed your series so far - Installing Sprite SE, Bed Levelling and now this Initial Layer calibration. I have a nice warm feeling of having a machine that is correctly set up. Next it is the Temperature Tower and then to look at stringing. Thanks for taking the time to pull it all together, it is much apreciated.
WHO IS THIS GUY??! WHY HASN'T HE POSTED MORE??!!
Maaaaaaan... All four of your current videos are... to say the least VERY Impressive especially since you came from the abis.
All four videos, MMUUAA😙👌
Not sure how many videos Ive seen of people explaining this before you, but god damn its been a solid amount, and finally I got perfect results after watching this video and downloading that 3d model. I wouldnt actually believe that adjusting from (in my case) -2.20 to -2.35 would change much (as it meant lazy me doing work :P ), but yup that changed it from disaster to perfection. Thank you very much!
Perfect, one thing I needed to know was what the base layers looked like and what the issues mean.
Now I know I'm a bit too close, thanks!
You’re welcome! Thank you for the comment!
great video taught me alot just got my printer yesterday. you Gained a Sub!!
Thanks for a useful video!
From -2.05 to -1.85 means that the nozzle goes up, further from the bed, right?
Make k1 related stuff and your views will sky rocket!
Simply awesome bro...thank you!
Very helpful! Thank you!
Very helpful thank you
This video helped me so much
Thank you, this helped me.
Great topic, thanks 👍
Thank you for the comment :)
thank you for this! I have a question.. my printer did the job from the inside out in a squared shape, not with diagonal lines, do i need to change anything in the cura software? i have a elegoo neo 4 max . the corners of the squares were not great, because they had spacing. the parallel lines were perfect.
My first layer is great. The second just starts smashing or smearing leaving edges up on each line. Cannot figure it out
That’s likely a flow calibration issue. I maybe actually make a video on that today
Just found your channel and Subscribed. I am not understanding the relationship of the Z Offset numbers. When Offset is set to 0, what is the actual distance of the nozzle from the bed surface?
If I leveled my bed 0.1mm
And I have ugly gaps between lines and infill.
Shall I start do -0.05 and redo it until looking better?. Need to use Cura since I cant adjust it with display.
I am trying to troubleshoot an issue with my printer that could be this but it could be not, I'm not sure... I was printing fine and for no reason on my first layer the layers started to lift up and curl. It was like individual groups of layers would warp upwards in random spots and I can fine any videos on it... would you happen to know why?
how do you fix the first lay lines on a x1c? My layers aren't smooth like yours and i have gaps between my lines. ive tried lowering/rasing the z offset and parts of my test piece is good, but the other parts aren't.
I've dialled in my levelling with a feeler guage, (Ender 3 S1 Pro with Sonic Pad), I did a 1st layer print, 80% of it was OK but had thin stringly lines in top left and towards middle of the plate.
Is this a warped plate?
I have the Ender 3 S1 and despite auto-leveling the bed at temperature I always get an inconsistent first layer or even seperation. At some places the distance will be perfect with the structure of the plate visible on the part and no layerlines while a couple of mm to the side layer lines become clearly visible or, like I said the part even comes off the plate.
Any ideas?
Anyone know ho to do this in Creality 5.0 or Orca or Bambu Studio? Thanks
I'm going mad because I get BOTH rough and strings on the same print. It drives me mad, also never seen a flat surface, lines are always at least somewhat visible (kobra 2 pro)
I really need to know where this gcode z setting is on the Orca Slicer. I found on reddit that it was the Travel Distance Threshold function, which should be active in Filament Settings>Setting Overrides and also in Printer Settings>Extruder.
But I don't know if that's right.
Did you ever figure where the is? My guess right now is PrinterSettings>basicInfo>PrintableSpace>Zoffsset. My FlashForge Ad5M setting only lower and raises by .25 and I need a little less than that, so I Have to use Orcaslicer to do the .05 adjustments. But don't know for sure since I only started a month ago. Thanks
@@emrysbatson3193 for the flashforge if you are using the Flashprint Slicer the Z offset is under the Other tab, you can set it to different setting I found .04 works good for me
but what if right bottom is too far and in the same time left up - is tooo close? How can i proceed here without any adjustable knobs on corners?
ender v3 ke, autoleveling and auto z offset