Honda BF 4stroke Outboard CARB CLEANING, DISASSEMBLY & INSPECTON
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- This is Part Two of removing and cleaning your Honda BF series outboard engine carburetors. If you missed Part One the link is down below.
In this video, I disassemble the Honda BF50 Outboard carbs, check all of the gaskets and o-rings, clean out all of the jets and fuel passages, and reassemble.
While owning this engine I performed this process at least four times possibly more due to me using regular pump gas. It only took me a few times to realize that using pump gas in these motors was a huge mistake. The slow jet is super small and can get clogged VERY easily.
PART ONE Video - • Honda BF50 4 stroke OU...
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Probably one of the best, most thorough, and detailed videos I’ve ever seen... not just on the BF50, but on all of RUclips.
Haha. Thanks hope it helped 👍🏼
Maybe you can help me out... I bought a 17’ whaler for my 2 boys. I had to do a total rehab, including replacing the foam and the floor. My only real issue, is the wiring at the console. I’ve been looking for months. I have the harness schismatic, but I’m lost when it comes to real world wiring. Emergency kill switch, ignition, tach etc. any ideas where I could see a real world install?
Honestly wiring is not my favorite. I know enough to get most jobs done but I tend to avoid those jobs if I can. Wish I could help but I’m probably not the best to give advice on that.
Great job explaining everything where can you order the intake manifold gasket from thanks
2:53 An impact driver with a tight fitting philips bit did the trick for me
Great video. Honda part numbers below:
17384-ZV5-000 intake airbox gasket
17151-ZV5-000 intake manifold gasket
16221-ZW4-000 carb spacer gasket (x2 for both sides of spacer)
16150-ZW4-000 low speed idle intake jet
16010-ZV4-005 carb gasket set (bowl and jets)
I account for like half of the views on this video. I have a BF outboard that has a hard time starting, and rough ideling. Seems like a carb cleaning would be a good thing to try. Thank you for a very informative video, good footage and nice narrating. :)
I had rough running issues with this motor for the entire time I owned it. Some days it ran like new and then the next day it would run like crap. I learned no matter what gas I was using I would still have issues if the boat sat for more than a couple weeks. I started fully draining the fuel out of the system when I knew the boat would be sitting for a while and this helped a little. I could never really get it to run 100% all of the time. I have a feeling the carbs just needed to be replaced but I wasn't willing to spend the money. I ended up selling the boat this motor was on.
@@BackyardBoatworks ditto. I have a BF10 - tempramental behaviour, first start fine, then won't restart until fully cooled. If the carb access was easier (for me!) I'd have a go at cleaning, to be honest I feel like passing on the motor and just getting another make.
@@BackyardBoatworks *"$#$$#2`#
Your keyboard is broken
Could I get the part number for the rebuild kit you used? Great video and very helpful.
Thanks a lot!
I have a bf 75 A 75hp 4 cylinder. What would be the part number for the jet set(slow jet), because my tubes are cracked as well???
Good information! During a deep cleaning, the slow jet emulsion tubes on my carburetors were also found to be cracked at the bottom. This is unfortunately an expensive part but necessary and so replaced.. Personally, I use a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench with a good fitting flathead bit for the jets. No hassle with slipping resulting in damaged jets.
This guide just saved my ass. Thanks for the great content
Informative vids
Thanks.
Well, I have a comment. Those bowl screws are not Philips. They are JIS (common on Japanese small engines), which is close in design, but far enough off that they will strip easily with a Phillips. A small set of vice grips grabbing the sides of the screw is best for breaking these free. These carbs have lots of room to allow for this. A Philips can then be used to finish removing/installing them.
I'm not sure you were very accurate with the naming of the parts, but your disassembly did help me when I did mine. Thanks!
Thanks Captain. I wasn’t the first one to take them apart which is why they were already stripped. Sorry if my part terminology wasn’t spot on. Next time I’ll make sure to get it perfect so you can better understand the process. Maybe you should make a video and correct everything I did wrong 🤷🏼♂️ just sayn.
I wondered if slow jet tube had holes in middle.Mine needs a new one.All crusty and blocked over.Exactly what I needed to know.Thanks!
The first time I did this the slow jet was cracked and I replaced it. They typically have hairline cracks so it’s always ideal to replace them.
If you just did this job a couple months ago,why are you doing it again.
Shit gas and shit carb design.
You make it look simple. I’m thinking of giving this a try. My engine is running great at faster speeds
But I’m getting stalling at low idle. Is there a cleaner that can be used that might clean up the jets or carbon deposits?
Question,
How much compression should this motor have approximately?
I believe the factory specs suggest 199PSI on all cylinders at 500RPM. You may see lower than that but the biggest thing to look for is that all of your cylinders are within 10% of each other. You may see readings like 155/155/158 which would be fine. Anything like 155/135/155 is bad.
I found a good thread that talks about how to check compression on these motors.
www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?397258-Honda-BF50A-Compression-check
Hi I have a 2o hp Honda carb. Should there be a hole in the cap that holds the jet in place. Many thanks Paul
I have a bf 75 and it will not idle very well with the choke on and will not run at all with the choke off. I'm guessing its clogged "slow jets" due to fuel. I thought stabilizer would have helped but I should have known better and that I should have disconnected the fuel and purged the carburetors after every use since ethenol free gas is hard to come by. I do that for small motors like lawn mowers and chainsaws.....my question is that it looked like that 50 had 3 carbs, mine I'm guessing has 4. Those gasket kits are around 50$ am I correct?
If it’s running on choke it’s possible you have an air leak in your intake gasket. With the choke on your are forcing it to stay running which I wouldnt do very long. I had similar issues with this motor and yes a lot of the issues came from the slow jet being clogged but it could also be a worn out gasket. I would tear it down and replace all of the gaskets and also check the condition of the slow jet. You might need a magnifying glass to look for hairline cracks in it. It will be very hard to see the cracks.
After the second time rebuilding these carbs I started draining them after every use. It was the only way to avoid headaches.
I didn't run it long like that just a few minutes in the hose.... Think I should check the intake gasket before I mess with the carbs? Thanks
Yeah I would start there but it could be the seal under each carb.
thanks for the video, helped me a lot, would not of seen the jet holes you mentioned, already ordered those , little pricey but what choice do we have,, my problem was a little strange hope it resolves, mine didn t want to max out in rpms,, but its a start,, I already am re doing all the fuel lines etc thanks again
What is the silver round thing on the side of carb mine is leaking like crazy
Thanks for the video, good job. Do you have any links for purchasing the carb kits on amazon or other? I have an BF50 on a sailboat and it doesn't get run hard. It starts fine, idles for a minute then begins to idle rough and sometime dies. It's better if I take it out and run it hard for a few miles. I change the oil every season and this year its incredibly dirty. Could it just be carboned up from idling too much? Always use the marina fuel.
It’s been a while since I did this so I don’t know the part number off hand. But a Google search should return some part numbers. The seal and gasket kit is separate from the jets. I would expect that your “slow jet” is either clogged or cracked. That why you cannot run at idle. That is the same problem I would have. As soon as I gave it gas the fuel flow would shift to the larger jet and the boat would run fine. Pull the slow jet out and check for damages. I’d suggest just replace all of them.
@@BackyardBoatworks Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have been searching online and only found OEM individual parts and prices and a few parts discounted on eBay. No rebuild "kits" like for other manufactures. It's about $240 including T&S for parts gaskets and jets. I also checked into having it done at a local dealer @ $200 per carb labor plus parts. New OEM carbs are +/-$200 each but there seems to be a dozen model #'s, some discontinued. Hmmmmm. Like I said, I have only used the gas at the marina and drained the carbs each fall. The motor has less than 200 hrs run time. I'm kind of disappointed with it.
$240 is about right for everything including all new gaskets and jets. You don’t need new carbs I can almost guarantee that and you should only buy OEM Honda parts. Anything else is a waste of money.
Just because you buy gas at the Marina doesn’t mean anything. If they haven’t cleaned their tanks or filters you can still get crap in the gas. If anything a Marina will have a lot less maintenance in their tanks and equipment compared to say a WAWA that sells Rec90.
Because the slow jet in these motors is so small it can get clogged very easily. It’s not the motors fault it’s the shit gas we buys that’s to blame. I was draining the fuel out of the carbs every time I used the boat if it was going to sit for more than a week.
@@BackyardBoatworks Ill cost ya over a hundred to do that, LOL but like I said,, what doesn't cost a hundred bucks these days
Great video, Thank you.
Thank you.
I have a BF30A tiller with pull start. After sitting a few days it takes like 50 pulls for it to start with choke on . Once it's running for awhile it will start first or second pull for the rest of the day no problem... then after sitting again for a day or two ...same scenario ...40-50 pulls before it starts. Primer bulb hose is brand new but I noticed it doesn't get firm when priming at first start ...but does once motor has been running awhile . Any ideas.Carb issue maybe?
Not sure. Sounds like fuel issue.
Yeah brilliant video man - well done - I will definitely be doing this to my bf 40 - thanks!
I have a bf 50 hp clean the carburetors it does not remain running at idle and I know what it can be for
Clean the jets
@@BackyardBoatworks the slow jet is the fine length that goes inside the diffuser
Yes
@@BackyardBoatworks clean all the jets for 2 times and it starts and stops in relanty I don't know what to do is something so easy
Can you send me a link to the carb kit or tell me where to purchase it great video man
Great video ! Will tackle this job soon.
Thanks
What’s up man I live down street wanted to know if you work on boats:)
No I don’t
@@BackyardBoatworks lol it’s was a trick question obviously do, i took off the carb from my 25hp Honda BF25A and I can’t seem to remember how to reattach the little linkage, anyways you can help brother
Thanks so much for the video. very helpful. I have the same engine. May I ask where you get the rebuild kits. I look on Amazon and Ebay, i'm not sure if its the right kits.
Any Honda parts supplier.
I bought a used bf40. I can get it to start with choke on but as soon as I let choke off motor stops. I adjusted the idle up and got it running for a few minutes and took it out for about 5 minutes as soon as I went back to idle it quit running. I could use the choke to restart but soon as i choke was off it would die. Any suggestions. Thanks for great video.
When you use choke you’re cutting off air flow to the carb causing an rich air fuel ratio. It’s not good to keep doing that because you are forcing the engine to run. You either have an air leak or you most likely have a clogged or cracked slow jet. The reason it dies on idle is because there’s two jets in the carb one that fuel flow at idle and another that flows off idle. The slow jet has very small fuel passages that clog up easily with bad gas. Use my videos to remove the carbs and replace everything including all of the gaskets, seals, and buy new jets. Good luck.
You had to do a carb job two months ago on the same carb? Is there something that can be done to not have a motor that needs a carb job every two months?
Not really. These carbs are by far the worst I’ve ever owned. The best you can do is drain the gas out 100% after every use.
Hello, at 7:49 the part you call the slow jet that has the o ring on one end is that hollow from end to end .I cleaned my carb and i could see the cross holes in each end however i could not look through the brass piece from end to end .The carb was dirty and gimmed up and motor would not run .Now it runs but needs the carb on. I suspect it that piece in your hand they is blocked IF it is hollow
Yes it’s supposed to be hollow. You should be able to see through it to the other side. Also check for cracks.
Wow. I must have a memory problem because I’m going to have to watch the a dozen times I go through this process. Great video with detail!
Great Video, I'm going to give this a try to get my BAWS-300183 running. Question: Where do you get your parts? Great if I could get a kit of all the common replacement parts before I begin.
Hello Jeff sorry I missed this comment. I purchased the OEM kit from a local Honda Marine Dealer but you can find them easy on EBAY or other marine supply shops.
Shit i like to see 👏👏👏Great video 👍🏼
Thanks
Do you have the part number for the seal kit??
This is the kit that I used but you need to check your application as they can vary based on year and HP etc
16010-ZV4-005
Those center caps would not come off I ended up breaking a chunk off the carburetor and ruined it had to buy a new carb very expensive. There must be a trick to getting them out.
Not sure what you mean by caps ?
@@BackyardBoatworks That's the screw you had to get a bigger screwdriver.
@@pitsmcgoo put a screw driver in the slot and give it a few gentle but firm taps with a hammer. Should break loose pretty easily after that.
I wonder if any aftermarket providers came up with a replacement slow jet that didn't have the intrinsic issues of the OEM part
The issues with the jet are mostly due to the very small fuel passages. I do not think anything in aftermarket form would be able to solve that issue. Back in the early 2000s we did not have as poor of fuel quality that we have today and I expect it wasn't as big of an issue. The other issue is the hairline cracking but I expect that also wouldn't see much improvement with an aftermarket version. Its just metal fatigue.
Thank for your thoughts. Your videos are very helpful. My father an I are attempting this tomorrow for the first time. Pray for us 😅
Do you know if ita the same fir a BF60 efi (electronic fuel injection?)
No. This is carbureted. Totally different.
you wont have problems with efi, because the air cant get to the gas to make it turn to gum.
Tengo un motor 3o honda corriendo pierde carrerA
What function does the air box play?
Its just the main air intake for the carbs
Immensely helpful
Thanks
I was...... a carburetor guy,, but I can tell you this,, my next outboard will be fuel injected, no doubt
Haha. My Yamaha 90 2-stroke runs like a dream.
@@BackyardBoatworks If I had the engineers from honda, most certainly would ask what's up with those jets? I know Honda is the shit, but,,,,,,, really? they must know about ethanol
Agree 100%. I’ve never had an experience with jets like that Honda.