I am very fortunate to personally know Guy and just wanted to add YES he really is as knowledgeable and kind as he appears in these videos. Thanks for sharing your plethora of experience with us mortals, Guy!
I had termites and arrived at this video for a solution. Unfortunately, the termites ate my whole house before I got to the "what to do" part of this video. They're now eating my neighbor's house but I hope I can help them with the knowledge I'm about to acquire. Joke aside, great content. Thanks!
How fantastic to make availsble the incredible knowledge you possess. So appreciated. I learned so much just listening. Especially about microwave treatments.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Greatly appreciated. Please let me know if I can ever be of any assistance to you. I am always here to help. Be well my friend.
Very polite and well spoken. I enjoy this program so much. I have 2 sides of my house trenched and treated at the moment going onto number 3 side when the weather looks better. Enjoying this DIY a lot. Thanks so much Guy! You’re a nice Guy!!! Cheers Peter
@@GuysPestSolutions Hello Guy, yes I have a question please. I have been able to trench around 3x sides of my house and treat with Fipronil. The trenching went just below the footings and I applied the recommended volume by watering can. I felt the job has gone really well so far with plenty of time before any rain for chemical bonding with the soil. On the last side of the house there is a narrow garden bed practically right along the entire side of the front of the house. The garden bed is around 60cm wide x 14 metres in length. The garden bed meets the front lawn with a length of continuous rocks abutted for a barrier to the garden soil, right across the the front of the garden bed in front of the house. To attempt to dig the trench in the garden bed across the front of the house footings, would be extremely difficult due to well developed hedge plants that fill the garden bed across the front of the house. Would there be a significant disadvantage if the treatment trench for subterranean termite treatment using Fipronil, was dug just in front of the rocks abutted right along the length of the garden bed and house?
@@Leo6009 If you are trenching, then you are treating for subterranean termites. Please correct me if I am wrong, but I'm guessing that you are not from the United States. I say that because, in the US, we typically do not trench down to the footings. However, that is often the way it is done in some other countries. In the US, the species of termites that are typically found only travel a couple of inches below the surface of the ground and, therefore, you do not want the termiticide too far below the surface. That is why we typically only trench six inches deep. If you treat too far below the surface, then the termites may travel above the treated area. Normally, when termites hit the foundation, they go up and not down. Occasionally they do go down and that is why we do the six inches, but they almost always go up where the wood is. So, if you treat down to the footings, then all the backfill soil must also be treated because subterranean termites just do not travel that deep in the ground. That being said, I'm guessing that some other countries treat differently because they may have a species of termites that do not behave the same way. So, it is important to know where you are from. If you live in the US, then we need to talk about the exact way you did the treatment to be sure that it will actually work. In any event, I really need to see the situation with the garden to answer your question. Would it be possible for you to send me a photo? You can email it to guysyoutube@mail.com. Please note that it's just "mail" and not "gmail." I can most likely provide the advise you need if I can see a photos of what it looks like. I'm sorry that I cannot be of immediate help, but I have learned the hard way that "A picture is worth a thousand words." When someone describes something to me I get a certain picture in my head and it often turns out to be nothing like what actually exists. So, I don't want to give you bad advice. I hope you understand. I do look forward to seeing that photo and I will do my very best to assist you with this. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions I took some photos for you earlier but they can’t be attached or sent here, so as you have offered I have hoped you would offer to view the photos. Thanks. The footings on this house are reasonably shallow and the 6 inch depth and width was followed per the instructions followed. It just happened in places the 6 inches depth was below the footings. We built the house 60 years ago and another 15 houses alongside of it. Cheers Peter
@@Leo6009 I see now. I'm thinking that treating in front of the stone should be fine in your case and that is the way I would do it. That being said, keep an eye out for mud tubes around the house, especially on that wall. It wouldn't hurt to inspect for mud tubes a couple of times a year. I'm guessing that you'll be fine though. Thanks for sending the photos. Best of luck with the treatment. By the way, I visited Sydney back in the late 1960's. I was on R&R from Vietnam. I'm sure things have changed a lot over the years, but I loved the people and I hope they have not changed. I had a wonderful time there and I have some very fond memories from my visit. Be well Peter.
When I first met my wife her very old SWFL wood apt building had drywood termites in every wood window and door trim and every wood floorboard. We had to throw out most of her furniture after we moved as it was infested and ruined. Years later I found a single tiny gallery in one of my old furniture pieces. I was able to heat treat it by placing the disassembled pieces under a tent made of quilts and blowing a space heater under an uplifted corner. I used a meat thermometer on the far side to make sure it got hot enough and I held it there for double the recommended duration. Saved a nice vintage wood framed couch.
Hi Guy, thank you so much for all this info! We unfortunately have drywood termite and will need of fumigation. We are wondering what cleaning you recommend after the fumigation? We have a newborn infant at home and want to veer on the side of safety. The pest control companies we've heard from so far have said no cleaning (such as washing clothes, dishes, wiping things down) is necessary. However, we've read the opposite on some websites online. Would love to hear your expert advice! Thank you!
God bless you with health and long life Mr. Guy.. What you're doing is wonderful: sharing all your knowledge and long experience with us. Your way to talk is perfect understanding even for a no native English speakers like me. ✨️🌟💯💯💯💯💯
Hi Guy - thank you for all your helpful videos! We have drywood termite that needs fumigation but we've also noticed moths (looks like pantry moth) in our house. Would you happen to know whether Vikane will also kill moths? And regarding the fumigation, do I need to worry about the plumbing and the Vikane getting into the water supply? Thank you!
Very informative video and I do have a drywood termite colony infestation that I need to get eradicated from inside my home wall,thankyou for making this video and sharing your expertise
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. If you can afford it, I recommend going with fumigation. Keep in mind that you will get reinfested if you do not do a preventive treatment. Please watch my video on how to treat the exterior of your house. If you do everything in the video, except treating the yard, that will prevent drywood termites. You need to do the treatment every 60 days. If you want to get the best price on fumigation, then please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Appreciate all your helpful termite videos and golden advice! I completed fumigation 3 weeks ago and have some questions: - how to tell active drywood termite activity vs old activity from 3 years ago? In other words, new frass vs old frass? - should I use compressed air or big blower simply shooting air in attic, window sill, kickout holes, etc... to remove termite frass so I have a clean base line? If a termite inspector comes here 3 years from now, they may say I have termite all over my home but those are old frass and may confuse their judgment. - do drywood termite attack from east & west side of the house first (attraction of light)? If that's the case, I will pay more attention to the east & west. I try to use risk-based approach to save time & money !
Those are some great questions. Telling the difference between old and new termite frass can be a little tricky. So, instead of trying to figure out if the frass is old or new, the best thing to do is to remove any frass that you can see. If new frass appears, then you have an active infestation. The termites should be producing frass every day, so it will reappear pretty quickly after you remove it. I don't think using compressed air to remove the frass would be the best way to go about it. I think I would just sweep it up and clean the area with a household detergent. It is possible for drywood termites to be attracted to a particular side of the house because light considerations, damp areas that may be on one particular side of the house, wind direction and speed, and the vulnerability on a specific side of the house. Vulnerability would be things like openings around soffits, fascia boards, windows, doors, pipe penetrations, and that sort of thing. So, light is not the only variable regarding what side of the house they will attack from. Therefore, you cannot limit your treatment to any specific areas of the house. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you had these guys in many locations in your home. You should also know that the gas they used to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. Since it has been three weeks since you fumigated, you may already be reinfested. In some areas of the country this is not the time of year for swarming, but in other parts of the country swarming can happen anytime during the year. So, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I always recommend starting the preventive treatment before the tent goes up, but better late than never. You may still be able to dodge a bullet. Do not trust the warranties that they give you. Most of them will contain language that gives the pest control company the discretion to treat future infestations in a manner of their choosing. That is to say, they are not going to fumigate again next year if you have more termites. They are most likely going to spot treat. This is something you can do yourself or about $30, so don't waste your money on extended warranties, unless they specifically state that they will fumigate again at no charge. Some people tell me that they have that kind of warranty, but I have never seen that language in a drywood termite contract. You need to read these contracts very carefully. The language can be very deceiving. It often sounds like you are getting coverage that you are not actually getting. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. You just need to treat the house): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Everything you say here & your other videos are all solid & proven from my recent fumigation experience. You are 100% correct about the sneaky 'warranty' where termite company also put owners responsible for 'proper' maintenance, caulking, painting, screening or they will VOID the warranty. People need to read these contracts word by word b/c sales rep will not explain it ! Your decades of experience provides us peace of mind during the whole fumigation process & puts us in a much better place vs most home owners. Always looking forward to learning from you. Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays. Please be well & stay well Sir ! 👍
Greetings Mr Guy!Thank you sir for your videos! I am now aware that I have black termites with the wings on the floor one room. they seem to be subterranean. Under one room in my house that was added on at some point by previous owners. It's a slab foundation so I am aware that the new slab that they added butts up against the old slab and apparently there is termite damage in the wall from the past. So I am planning on using the laundry bottle techniques that you have explained around this added on room. Can I do the 6-inch trench around the whole house as well at the same time? I was planning on opening some of the wall where I see the previous damage. And I am looking for fresh activity. I was planning on making the cardboard with Taurus sc as you have explained. And then putting that inside the wall if they are active.. I was considering getting a PVC pipe that might be about 6 ft long or so and driving it underneath the slab and a few spots such as underneath that area of the foundation where the wall has damage in order to plant some of the treated cardboard underground. Does all of this sound okay to you? And thank you for your help and time!
I am so sorry that you were dealing with subterranean termites. If the swarmers have black bodies with no other coloring on them, then these are most likely Eastern subterranean termites or Western subterranean termites, if you live in the western part of the US. Please let me know if you live in the West, and I will give you some additional information about Western subterranean termites. In both cases though, your first line of defense should be to trench around the entire house. I have a video on how to do that, and I will give you a link to it. If you do this properly, then there's no other treatment needed for Eastern subterranean termites. I explain how subterranean termites work in the video, so you will understand why this is the case. You can also do a spot treatment for them, but this really isn't necessary if you do the trenching. Spot treating involves drilling the walls and shooting in a foam. For now though, just watch the video and go to work with the trenching. Using a bait station to treat subterranean termites can be effective, but it's not a sure thing the way trenching is. The biggest problem with it is that it relies on the termites actually eating the bait. Unfortunately, the termites do not always get the memo that there is a free restaurant waiting for them. Also, it is best to get the bait in the ground where the termites are. This means you need to locate their exact point of entry. It is possible to treat them above ground, but this may reduce the chances of them eating the bait. So, I think the quickest and surest way to eliminate the infestation is to just trench around the house. This type of treatment has more than a 99% chance of success. I typically only go with a baiting solution if I run into a situation where trenching is not possible or where it would be very difficult. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Thank you do much for those kind words. You made my day. Please pass me along to others who may need pest control advice. It's always free and I will answer any question about any pest. All anyone needs to do is ask. Be well Joan.
Guy..Thank you for the video, I found it very useful. I am in process of getting quotes for infestation of Drywood Termites in home located in Florida. I found the dropping and winged termites in our kitchen and inspector noted it was a good change they came in new kitchen cabinets that were installed 3 years ago. to date: 1 quote noted to spay only and second quote noted to tent and spray. Based off research, inspections and your video I will get additional quotes and details on each pesticide that would be used. It sounds like tenting while expensive is best method. Should the service I get for these drywood termites include an additional spraying inside and outside of the house( additional charge) ? Thank you
First, let me say that I think you were very smart to do your homework before you dove into treating your drywood termite infestation. As you saw from my video, there are a number of ways to come at drywood termites, but the only surefire way to get rid of them is to tent and fumigate the building. If you fumigate, then there's absolutely no need to do any spraying inside the building. You should spray outside the building, but the pest controllers are not going to do it properly, so don’t buy that service. I will explain more on that later. Any pest controller that suggests spraying in addition to fumigating is simply trying to rip you off for a service that you do not need. The fumigation is going to kill absolutely everything in the building. Here's the thing that you need to know though, fumigation does absolutely nothing to prevent another infestation of drywood termites. If you have drywood termites, then I would be willing to bet the ranch that most of your neighbors have them as well. That means that the termites from your neighbors’ homes are going to swarm and find their way back to your home. So, you can literally get reinvested within minutes after the tent comes down. All is not lost though. There are measures that you can take to prevent this. The first thing that I would do is treat the entire attic with Bora-Care. This product permanently treats the wood so that termites can never survive from eating it. I have a video that I did for people that want to treat their drywood termites themselves and in the latter part of that video I show how to treat your attic with Bora-Care. Of course, this does nothing to protect your windows, doors, and other areas where drywood termites are likely to enter. So, I also have a video on how to prevent drywood termites by doing an exterior treatment of the entire house every three months. If you do this exterior treatment every three months, then you will never have another drywood termite infestation. I am not 100% sure of this, but I believe I have the only video on the internet that shows you how to do this. You should also note that pest controllers will not do this treatment because it requires that you spray the fascia boards and soffits with pesticide and the policy of most pest control companies is to never spray above their heads. That means this is something that you must do yourself and that is why you should not buy that service. Don't worry though, this treatment is perfectly safe for you to do. If you are worried about using pesticides, I also happen to have a video that explains just how toxic pesticides really are and why it would be perfectly safe for you to do this treatment. I will give you links to all of these videos. I will also provide links for the pesticides that you will need. Please note that you do not need to do the Bora-Care treatment on the attic, if you do the exterior treatment every three months, but it wouldn't hurt to have that extra layer of protection. Finally, you want to begin the exterior treatment of your house several days before the fumigation is done. That way the house will be protected the moment the tent comes down. I know I gave you a lot of videos to watch and I sincerely apologize for that, but educating yourself on the problem is very important. Believe me when I tell you that you came to the right place. I will provide you with all the information that you need to get the problem solved at the best price possible. Also, I am willing to stay with you every step of the way until you have everything completed and I will answer any questions that you may have at any point during the process. The best part is that my service is totally 100% free. My reward is to see you solve your problem. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. How to prevent drywood termites video: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html How to treat a drywood termite infestation yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html How dangerous are pesticides video: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html Bora-Care: www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care Taurus SC: www.solutionsstores.com/taurus-sc-termiticide Talstar P (You can also use Bifen IT instead. It’s a bit cheaper): www.solutionsstores.com/talstar-pro Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide
Boracare is good if you replace the siding or the walls in a remodel. Its basically radiator fluid or ethylene glycol as a penetration enhancer mixed with boric salts which are toxic to termites. I make my own because boracare is super expensive.
They are not associated with rats or any other species. However, like other pests, termites do have a life cycle. Different termite species operate somewhat differently, but like rats, their behavior is reasonably predictable. For example, we know that drywood termites cannot swarm for 4 to 7 years after they establish a new gallery, and this is always the case. You cannot exactly set your watch by it, but it is predictable that a new gallery is going to produce swarmers in this time frame. So, the key to dealing with any pest is to first understand how they function. I hope that helps. Be well Becky.
Hello: Thank you for your service - it is highly informative and quite thorough. I live near Stanford and notice some Frass in the interior and one tiny hole above 1) Would this be Drywood termites only 2) Once we cleaned the Frass it has not reappeared about 10 days thus far - Does that mean the swarm has left
When you say that you live near Stanford, are you talking about California? If so, then you are just in the northern most band of the US where drywood termites are known to be a problem. The only species of termites, that I know of, that produces frass are drywood termites. However, there are other insects that produce frass, like carpenter ants. Just based on your description of the problem, and your location, I would agree that these are probably drywood termites. It is highly unlikely that these guys will go away on their own. Just because you are not seeing any frass coming out of the same kick out hole doesn't mean they have not created another kick out hole somewhere else. It would be helpful to know where in the house you found the frass. Was it in a cabinet, around a window, in the drywall, etc. If I know that, then I may be able to tell you what is going on. My guess is that you are looking at an active gallery that has moved passed that area where the frass was. For example, if the kick out hole is in the drywall, then they may now be creating kick out holes in the studs where you cannot see them. If it were me, I would look for frass all over the house. Move the furniture and go up in the attic. A lot of infestations start in the attic. Please get back to me and let me know. Be well my friend.
All borates last forever. They have a lifespan of nuclear waste. However, if the Bora-Care is applied outside, then even if you seal it like you are supposed to, the sealer will deteriorate over time. If you don't keep up on it, then the effectiveness of the Bora-Care may be degraded. There should be no degrading of the effectiveness if you use it indoors, like in that attic. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, very helpful content! For dry wood termites, I heard you say only viable solution if hiring an expert is fumigation treatment due to spot treatment being ineffective / won't know where all the drywood termites have traveled to. Besides fumigation, are you familiar with heat tenting that raises the temperature to eliminate the drywall termites? Is heat tenting effective? Are there any downsides to heat tenting? FYI, I have drywood termites in my attic and crawlspace and already live in my home. I would like to understand chemical free options too like heat tenting treatment. Thanks so much for your advice.
It is a fact that heat will kill drywood termites. The problem is that you need to heat the termites to a temperature of at least 120° for at least a couple of hours. This is not so easy to do because the termites are typically located in the center of the wood, and wood is a natural insulator. That means it is difficult to heat. This problem is compounded by the fact that there's often insulation surrounding the wood, not to mention drywall. Further, there will often be drywood termites located in the fascia boards, roof rafters, sheathing under the exterior siding, and other difficult places to heat. Some companies will put a tent over the house to contain the heat, but not all companies do it this way. Some companies simply attempt to heat the house from the inside. Obviously, failing to tent the house is going to fail because you are not going to adequately heat the areas I just mentioned. Even if you tent the house, it is not enough to raise the temperature to 120°. You need to get the temperature to 120° inside every single piece of wood in the entire house. So, the question becomes, “How do you know if you accomplished this?” There is no practical way to determine if the center of every piece of wood in the house reaches the desired temperature. Therefore, this process is hit and miss at best. It can be successful sometimes, but it is not a sure thing. Also, these high temperatures can cause damage to electronic equipment and that sort of thing, so those things need to be removed from the house before the treatment is performed. Keep in mind that, if you want to reach the desired temperature in the center of all the wood, the actual temperature in the building will need to be much higher than 120°. If any component in that house does not reach the desired temperature, then the process may fail because a gallery was missed. Fumigation on the other hand is a sure thing. The gas goes right through everything and there is no escaping it. The advantage of using heat is that the turnaround time is much faster, and the process is going to be much safer. However, the cost of both of these treatments is probably going to be very similar. If you fumigate, I always recommend staying out of the house for at least 7 days after they tell you it is safe to go back in. There are accidents that happen every year, and some people have died because they went into the structure too soon after the fumigation was done. If you wait an additional 7 days, then the gas will certainly be gone by that time. So, if you do it right, then fumigation is perfectly safe. I always tell people that you should plan a two-week vacation if you're going to do fumigation. If you go with heat, it is pretty much safe to go back in after the process is finished, but I think it is unlikely that this process will eliminate all the galleries. For that reason, I do not recommend using heat. My opinion has always been, and still is, that fumigation is the only sure way to eliminate drywood termites. As far as I know, there is no chemical free way of eliminating drywood termites. Both fumigation and heat treatments have no residual properties. Therefore, since your neighbors also have drywood termites, you need to do a preventive treatment on the building beginning before any treatments are done. This will ensure that you do not get reinfested. I have a video on how to do that and I'll provide a link below. This is a generic video that was created to prevent a lot of pests, but it also works to prevent drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Simply treat the house every 60 days, and you will be good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
I got to say that the last two years here in se Louisiana we've had more swarmers than ever before. I do roofing and sheetmetal work and go to a lot of homes and most all houses at the time of swarmers, have them in there houses. We've had them come in three time. I don't know if they went to work eating my home or others but we still had a mess of cleaning them up.
You folks have drywood termites and Formosan termites. One's bad and the other is even worse. Everybody that lives there should be treating with termite granules and doing a drywood termite preventive treatment as well. I think there are only two kinds of people that live in SE Louisiana. Those that have termites and those that will have termites. Everyone who lives there should be proactive. Be well my friend.
Thanks for this fantastic video. Questions I have are as follow: 1,What the difference between subterranean termite and Drywood termite? 2, If I have seen some dried mud tubes and none of them connected to the gound and I have no leakage in the house. Will the termite still survive?
The difference is between drywood termites and subterranean termites is that subterranean termites attack from the ground and typically leave mud tubes, but drywood termites attack from the air and literally fly to your house. Drywood termites do not leave mud tubes, but do create frass. To learn more about this, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link to that video. When you see mud tubes, that is always concerning, even if they are not in contact with the ground. This should definitely be cause for concern. Sometimes the termites enter through cracks in the slab or foundation and find a way to higher elevations in the home before you start seeing the mud tubes. So, you need to break open the mud tubes with a putty knife and see if there is any termites inside. If you have an active infestation, then you will probably see some of them in there. I would also do a thorough inspection of my home, which would include the entire perimeter of the house, the eaves, the crawl space, and the attic. You may encounter mud tubes in all of these locations. If you do find active termites in any of these mud tubes, then try to obtain the specimen that has a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. At that point you can identify it by watching my video on how to identify termites species. After breaking open the mud tubes, keep an eye on them to see if they are rebuilt. If they are, then there is an active infestation. They should be rebuilt within a few days. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termites species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
I really appreciate your videos and have a few questions about dry wood termites in Florida: 1. Are you saying it’s necessary to treat the home every three months forever? 2. Two sides of my home peak up too high to reach from the ground with sprayer. Do I need to get up there with a ladder and spray the soffits and facia up there? 3. Do I need to treat the attic w/boracare in addition to spraying the outside of the house? 4. Termites are leaving frass at the base of a wall in my vestibule. Should that area be spot treated with the same chemicals used and in addition to spraying the outside of the house?
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. Unfortunately, you do need to do the preventive treatment every 60 to 90 days forever. If you stop doing it, the termites will be able to get back in. You can treat the high places with a hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS. If you are going to do it this way, then you may as well treat your entire house with the hose end sprayer. Please watch my video on how to kill bugs before they enter your home. If you skip to 4.57 minutes into the video, it will show you how to use the hose end sprayer to treat high up places. If you are treating with Bifen XTS, then I recommend doing it every 60 days. That is exactly what I do. The hose end sprayer is super fast though. I can treat my entire house in under 30 minutes, and that includes set up and clean up time. Treating the attic with bora-care is a very good idea because it makes the attic termite proof and a lot of the termites will enter into the attic. However, if you are diligent with the preventive treatment, then you do not need to treat the attic with bora-care. If you want to spot treat an area, I show you how to do it in one of my videos. I will give you all the links. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to kill bugs before they enter your home: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thanks Guy. I will do the treatment myself and I will order the products today. : ) How to you spray FiPro into floor joist ? I would guess you would spray the sides and maybe at an angle ? Also I have some dry wood damage on the subfloor and I don't want to have spray fall on me so should I drill at an angle?
The best way to treat the floor joists is with Bora-Care. Go under the house, remove the insulation, and spray all the wood, including the subfloor, with Bora-Care, mixed one to one with water. See if you can drill tiny holes through the finished floor above. This is possible for hardwood floors. If so, then you can also treat the subfloor from above with fipronil foam. You can do it from below, but it's easier from above. It requires drilling holes every 4 inches along the infested area, about half way through the wood, and shooting fipronil foam into all the holes for about 5 seconds, or until it is coming out the other holes, or coming back out at you. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@yeeebayeeba4268 Thank you for those kind words. Very much appreciated. If you have termite swarmers in your kitchen, then there is a good chance that they are drywood termites. Not always, but most of the time. I recommend that you get a free estimate from a pest control company. Almost all pest control companies will give you a free estimate. Just ask them what the species is. You want to make sure that you are actually dealing with drywood termites and not subterranean termites. The treatment is totally different. If these guys are drywood termites, then you should know that spot treating should only be done if you cannot afford to fumigate. There is almost no chance that you will find all the galleries. Neither will the pros. That's why fumigation is the only sure way to kill them all. While the pest controller is there, ask them what fumigation will cost. At least you will get an idea of what you are looking at cost wise. If you decide to fumigate, then get several estimates because prices can vary a lot. Also, you should know that, if these are drywood termites, then the other buildings around you are infested as well. That means there are more termites flying over to your house on a regular basis, so you need to start doing a preventative treatment to stop more of them from invading. I will give you a link to that video. If you fumigate, then you need to start this treatment a few days before they fumigate. That is because fumigation has no residual action, so the termites can reinfest you literally minutes after the tent comes down. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions OH my goodness. Thank you so very much for that detailed explanation and response. I have a feeling they are subterranean. I think they are coming from a bay window I have in the house. I will go ahead and watch the video you linked. Again, I can't thank you enough for your kindness and expertise.
@@yeeebayeeba4268 I hope that you are correct and these turn out to be subterranean. Drywood termites are expensive to deal with. By the way, I forgot to mention that you can kind of tell yourself if you still have the swarmers. If they are black, then they are subterranean. If they are a reddish color, then they are either drywood or Formosan. Telling the difference between drywood and Formosan is more complex, but plain vanilla subterranean termites are always black. I hope that helps.
@@GuysPestSolutions well, maybe I'm wrong then.... they were definitely not black, but more of the redish vanilla color. I'd never seen it before, but there was about 50-80 of them maybe, in a kitchen area where the light was on. They were killed by setting off a bug bomb. I'm fairly positive I know what area they are coming from, but not sure how far they have moved up or how many are there now. I don't see any tunnels outside, but that part of the foundation is slightly less exposed than the rest of the house. Maybe 2" of exposed concrete before getting into the wall.
Hello Guy! I appreciate the excellent guidance you’ve given in your videos and I am on my way to treating my home for termites. I’ve confirmed subterranean so will be applying the granules as soon as they come in. I do have a question though. This house has a basement where one exterior wall is block for about 4’ up then goes to 2x6 for framing and studs. There are definitely termites in there and I’m hoping they are subterranean and living in the blocks where I can’t see their tubes but can’t be sure so I’m treating that area with the fipronil foam. With *2x8” framing do I need to drill deeper than 1.5”?
I think it is a very good idea to do that spot treatment on those 2 X 6's. That will give the granules a really nice boost. You need to drill deep enough to go halfway through the wood. So, if you are drilling into a 5.5-inch-wide piece of wood, then you need to drill about 3 inches deep. The depth can be nominal. You just do not want to drill all the way through to the other side. You want to drill the holes about four inches apart along the entire affected area. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. Shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until it is either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes. All holes must have foam either going in or coming out. You should know that subterranean termites do not colonize in concrete blocks. They always colonize in the ground. It is possible that they are building mud tubes inside those blocks, but they are not colonizing there. So, if you use the granules and you also spot treat the wood, then that should wipe out the entire colony and eliminate any activity inside the blocks. The exception to this would be if you have Formosan termites. These guys only operate in warm, humid environments. You typically find them in southern coastal states, Southern California, and states that border Mexico. They are also a big problem in Hawaii as well. If you were to have these guys visiting you, then the granules and spot treating would not get the job done. If you want to know if you live in an area where Formosan termites are found, then have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where they operate. I will place a link below for the video. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
Hello Mr. Guy. I live in Western VA, quite outside the range of the drywood termite. But, I noticed frass just as you describe being ejected from the frames of one of my windows. I found this twice and didn't realize what it was, until I went to remove the window for cleaning and found the wood very soft, and almost gone. When I took the window out to fix the frame I found one that looked just like you showed but light green. If we are so far outside the range could this be something else? I've not noticed any damage anywhere else.
If you get this, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I did respond to this question, but it looks like RUclips deleted it. They do that sometimes and I don’t know why. So sorry. Just copy your original comment and past it into the email. Also, please give me your RUclips name. Be well my friend.
Thank you for the very helpful videos and this one in particular. I'm currently in the process of selecting my termite treatment options for drywood and subterranean termites here in California. I've received 4 proposals for the work but narrowed it down to 2 local non-national companies. Both companies inspectors did a thorough inspection of my home and proposed a treatment plan (non-tenting) at a reasonable price that made sense to me. Im not sure which company to go with. Should I go with the company that specializes in termite control only or go with the general pest control company that proposed a more thorough treatment plan?
If you have both drywood and subterranean termites at the same time, then you need to do two different treatments. For the subterranean termites, they need to trench the house. That's it. If they are not doing that, then look elsewhere. You are getting ripped off. For drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate the house. I understand that it is expensive and the cheaper options look really good for you wallet, but they do not work. Drywood termites do not just have one gallery in your home. They can have many of them and those galleries are super hard to find. Even the best pest controllers cannot guarantee that they will find them all. Now, they will give you a guarantee for a year or two, but hose guarantees are totally worthless. All they are guaranteeing is that they will come back and treat a gallery that either you find or that they find after doing an annual inspection. So, galleries are going to get missed and your house will continue to get eaten. Spot treating for drywood termites is like playing Wack-a-mole. Going this way is kind of like being penny wise and pound foolish. Pest control companies should be ashamed of themselves for even offering this type of option. You would be much better served to go with fumigation for the drywood termites. Unfortunately, this will not solve the subterranean termite problem. Those guys may die from the fumigation, but new ones will be right back after the tent comes down because they only colonize in the ground. So, you must trench and fumigate. Finally, even after you fumigate and trench, you ARE going to get reinfested with drywood termites. You took care of the subterranean termites by trenching, but the drywood termites are infesting your neighbors' homes as well and they will happily fly over to your house again and reinfest your place because fumigation leaves no residual action. So, to prevent reinfestation, you need to do a preventative treatment for drywood termites every three months. I will give you a link to a video on how to do that. The problem that you are going to have in California is that they have a law against selling pesticides to non-licensed people. I think there are ways to still obtain products that you can explore and I will try to assist you with that if you like. Unfortunately, pest controllers typically will not do the preventive treatment for drywood termites, so it is something that you must do yourself in most cases. Don't be surprised if most pest controllers don't even know that it can be done. I am so sorry that you are having these problems and I feel bad that I had to give you all that bad news, but everything I told you is the truth. You live in an area of the country where termites are a huge problem and the laws are designed to make it an ongoing and expense thing to deal with. The lawmakers hang their hats on saving the environment, but the truth is that applying pesticides yourself will not harm the environment any more than it will if a pest controller does it, which is not at all. You should watch my video on 12 Things That Pest Controllers Do Not Want You to Know. I will give you a link to that video as well. You will find it to be a real eye opener. I wish you well and I hope it all works out for you. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html 12 Things That Pest Controllers Do Not Want You to Know: ruclips.net/video/7o5AK2svUUA/видео.html
Hi Guy, Thanks for the amazing info. I have a widespread drywood termite infection in my garden whereby the termites have infected at least 5 trees, covering an area approximately 10 x 20 metres. I can also see some faint mud trails on the earth. Would like to check what are the realistic treatment options to eradicate or control this infestation?
This does not sound like drywood termites. I mean, it could be, but it sounds more like Formosan termites to me. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species and get back to me. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi, Thanks for your reply. Based on your video, they look very much like Formosan termites. Would spraying the garden/trees with fipronil & baiting the infected parts of the house with Chlorfluazuron (baiting is what my pest control did for the house) work?
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, RUclips did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me. Please watch my video on Formosan termites. That will explain everything you need to know. I will give you the link. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
First, make sure that what you have are actually termites. Next, determine the species. Drywood termites are treated differently that subterranean termites. For subterranean termites you also need to treat the ground around outside of the house. I will give you a link to a video on how to do that. For inside treatment, just follow the directions in my video on how to treat drywood termites yourself. I will place a link below. Go to the part where I show you how to apply FiPro or other fipronil foam. If you are seeing mud tubes, then scrape off a two-inch section of each tube and shoot the foam into both sides of the tube and on the surface. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and take the fipronil back to the colony to share with the other termites. If you are seeing wall damage or wood damage, then the inside treatment is explained in the video on how to treat for drywood termites. If you are seeing mud tubes, then these are subterranean termites and you must treat the outside of the house. If you are seeing kick out holes and frass, then they are drywood termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Video on how to treat drywood termites yourself and how to apply fipronil foam: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thank you for your videos. Very informative. What would you do if you were building a new house in drywood termite country? Standard wood framing with peel and stick housewrap on the exterior
Thanks for the question. Hands down, this is a no-brainer. After the shell is built and before the house wrap is on or the shingles are on the roof, when all the wood is exposed, you apply Bora-Care to all the surfaces. I mean ALL. You want to spray the top of the roof before the shingles go on and then everything else down from there, inside and out. Normally, I like to mix the Bora-Care one to one with water, but that is going to be somewhat expensive for an entire house and will probably cost a thousand dollars to do. Bora-Care costs about $80 a gallon and one to one only makes two gallons. Still, this is the best way to do it. However, if a thousand dollars is a bit steep for you, then you can mix it one to five and do the job for about four hundred dollars. It works, but not a good. I would spend the extra six hundred and do a perfect job. If you get drywood termites it will probably cost you two thousand to tent it, so it's money well spent. If you apply the Bora-Care to all the wood, inside and out, then your house will be permanently treated for drywood termites, not to mention subterranean termites as well. The Bora-Care lasts virtually forever. I would not even give it a second thought. If you are building a house, this is what you do. All builders should be required to do it. I will give you a link to a video on the application and a link to the product. They tell you that you should mix it with hot water, but cold works just fine. Most videos show you to just apply Bora-Care three feet from the floor up, but that is for subterranean termites only. For drywood termites, you need to treat all the wood in the entire home. Any wood you miss is wood that can be eaten. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html Bora-Care supplier: www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care
Hi Guy. Great job. I have Drywood Termites in my cabinets. Termite inspection person inspected the entire house and only found termites in the cabinets. I did a spot treatment. Emptied all the cabinets and sprayed all the joints hopefully getting the unfinished wood surface. Found some exit holes that I sprayed in but they are very small. This is the product I used: BioAdvanced Termite and Carpenter Bee Killer Plus, Foam, 18 oz. Do you think my approach will work? If the foam is effective how long do I need to wait after spraying to see results. Since the termites are mostly inside the cabinets I thought about taking a fogger and putting it inside the cabinet, turning it on, closing the door of the cabinet and leaving the house. What do you think?
Fogging will do nothing to help. The foam you used should work, if you did it correctly. That being said, it is important to understand how drywood termites work. You need to ask how they got into your cabinets in the first place. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. That is why you are only seeing them in the cabinets. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. They most likely got to your cabinets because they swarmed from an exit hole somewhere inside your home. Exit holes are very tiny and they can be anywhere, so you probably didn't see it. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. The only good news is that drywood termites are very slow eaters and it takes a long time for them to do significant damage. However, if you just let it go, they will eventually cause structural damage that may cost thousands to repair. So, you do have some time to get pricing and to save up some money, but don't put it off for too long. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Just the exterior of the building): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Wow. That was fast. I just posted this video a few minutes ago. Thanks for watching. The answer to your question is yes. They only need to tent for a day to kill the termites, but the problem is that the gas can linger inside the home for several days. It can be trapped inside the wall voids and such as that. So, most companies will leave the tent up for a couple of days and may use it to help vent out the gas and keep people out until it is safe to return. Once the tent is down, folks may think it's safe to return, when it isn't. That gas can and will kill you, so the pest control company needs to make sure that all the gas is gone before allowing you to re-enter the building. I often see the tents remain up for about 72 hours, but I suppose they could take them down as soon as they are finished fumigating. I would like to think that they would at least tape off the doors or tag them somehow to keep people out until they have ensured that the home is safe to enter. My own rule of thumb is to stay out for five days after the fumigation is completed. It's rare, but I have heard of cases where occupants have re-entered too soon and literally died overnight when the gas found it's way out of a wall void and into a bedroom. The pest control company has equipment to test for this, but for me, I would consider it an opportunity to take a one week vacation. There is no way I would ever consider entering a fumigated house the day after it was done. I don't care how safe they tell me it is. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
If you live in Virginia, then you may not have drywood termites at all. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link to it. If they are not drywood termites, then you may be able to treat them for $50 with termite granules. I will give you a link to that video as well. Your comments are not coming through to me in a timely manner, so please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to treat termites with granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Very informative video! My house currently has a drywood termite infestation and am planning to do fumigation. My question is though how long should we stay out of the house after the tent is down? Ive read that it is okay to come in after the amount of gas is really low. But at the same time ive read stories where the gas somehow did not go away days after the fumigation. I was thinking of staying out for 3-4 days after fumigation. But im also kind of paranoid about burglars getting in the house. Thanks!
I actually have two answers for you. The first answer that I'm going to give you is the one that I am supposed to give you. The company that does the fumigation has specialized equipment to test if the gas is completely gone out of the house. After they test to make sure that the house is safe, they will tell you that it is okay to move back in. You can re-enter the house anytime after that point. That being said, the second answer I will give you is what I would do. You know that it's going to take a couple of days for them to put up the tent and do the fumigation. At that point they need to make sure that all the gas is out of the house, and that is probably going to take another couple of days. You are absolutely correct that there are some horror stories out there about companies that have missed gas that was trapped in the walls, and it's seeped out overnight and killed people while they were sleeping. This happens very rarely, but it can't happen. So, if it were me, I would simply use this time to take a little vacation for about a week. You are correct that burglars understand that houses that are tented are vacant. Even though it is extraordinarily dangerous to enter a tented house, some of these people are really desperate for money and they will take that risk. For that reason, you should always make sure that all your valuables are out of the house. Most of the time these folks are not looking to steal your TV or your furniture. Folks that are desperate enough to go into a tented house are usually suffering from drug addiction and that sort of thing. They are most likely not pulling up with a moving truck. Therefore, they are looking for jewelry, cash laying around the house, silverware, or small items of value. So, the best thing that you can do is to simply remove any of these sorts of things before the fumigation is done. If you like, you can also put a Blink camera system in your home for very little money. I don't know if you are familiar with the Blink system, but you can install just one camera if you like and it is motion activated. If somebody enters the house, they will have no choice but to pass by the camera and it will send a notification to your phone that someone has entered your home. All you need to do is to look at the video it sends you and you will know immediately if someone is in the house that does not belong there. At that point you simply call the police. Since most people store their jewelry in the master bedroom, that is the best place to locate the camera. These cameras are battery-operated, so there is no installation required. You simply put the camera down on top of a shelf, or any flat surface, and that's it. There is a module that needs to plug into your router, and then you just need to set up the app on your phone. It's pretty much that simple. I just looked on Amazon and they have a set of two cameras, which includes the sink module, for $95. So, you could set up one camera in the bedroom and one in the living room. If you like, they can also be permanently mounted to the wall. They're exterior grade, so you can also install them outside after the fumigation is over if you would like to do that. I started with just one many years ago, and I now have nine of them set up in different locations around the outside of the house. These cameras are an Amazon product, so they work with Alexa as well. I will give you a link to the sale I found. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Blink cameras: www.amazon.com/Blink-Outdoor-Camera-System-Wireless/dp/B086DKVS1N/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3J5CNJBWGJZS6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aPHbrI96yLHy6FgmRNRDVTF_lyLJsrLmJWF6J9Ztd9UmkKgnQqMCp5Aa-zyho7XNPvPvpwCBG6gzIQnA4oLBuvLIm6LhRLynculFK5PCvChVGMI0l--eSG_jVS4pVTT7nkqQdnd_KM256RLXk4MmrSJhSuELhiIfbZ1126BvS4GN551cYB2jlBTSGTb8MoVHCIDr4N2eCaOEtoNlvFFxFaAjzwkLcBPfUqAXIe8YDJk.ClAeffDLwUfvtuIO_aK7oL8OmHPlOHYxWJo5g2W7p90&dib_tag=se&keywords=blink+camera+outdoor&qid=1709028175&sprefix=blink+camera%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-2
@@GuysPestSolutions Got it! Really appreciate the videos you have been putting out. They have been very helpful for someone who got termites for the first time :)
@@boblee8799 I am always happy to help. By the way it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. This is why you need to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. You should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. It is an absolute must that you start the preventive treatment before the tent goes up. Just thought you should know. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. You only need to treat the exterior of the house every 60 days, as shown in this video): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Good to know the different options. On the rotted/termite damaged wood if to be locally treated by Termidor form. Various comments from the local termite companies. Some said to replace them before treatment, some said treat them first then wait 4-6 weeks to replace them, and some said to wait > 3 months before replacement. What would be more proper way? Is it OK to wait 2-3 weeks?
Hi Doug. You would think that us pest controllers would all agree on this stuff, but that is not the case. All I can tell you is my professional opinion and, like everyone else, I think mine is correct. I will explain my logic and you can be the judge. Termites come in two basic flavors. There are subterranean termites and drywood termites. With subterranean termites, you do not want to replace the wood right away because the colony is in the ground and not in your home. You want to give the termites time to bring the pesticide back to the underground colony and share it with the other termites, so as to wipe out the entire colony. Therefore, you don't want to remove the food source. You want to poison it and then leave it there until the infestation is totally gone. Drywood termites are different though. They do not colonize in the ground at all. They colonize in the wood. Also, the galleries that they create are fairly small. Often limited to just one 2x4 or one piece of molding. So, if you remove just that one piece of molding or that one 2x4, then you are literally removing the gallery and that part of the infestation is gone. Great idea. Right? Well, not so fast. The drywood termites may not have gotten the memo that they are supposed to just infest that one 2x4. It could be that the piece of molding that you removed had a gallery that extended from the molding into an adjoining 2x4. So, if you can be sure that you removed the entire gallery, then doing that is a good idea. However, if that gallery extends to an area that you cannot see, then removing it is a very bad idea. That is because, if you treat the obviously damaged area, the termites will carry the Termidor foam throughout the gallery and poison all the other termites and the entire gallery will die. Here in lies the difference of opinion. On the one hand, if you remove the gallery, then it's gone forever. On the other hand, it only takes a small hole to extend that gallery into an adjoining peice of wood and then you have a gallery that was not treated. By leaving the damaged wood alone until the termites are gone, you ensure that you killed off all the termites in that gallery. After that you can go ahead and do repairs. The Termidor works slowly in order to give the termites a chance to spread it around the gallery. It is not a fast kill product. Now, here is the tricky part. The time it takes to kill off the entire gallery depends upon how well the application was done. If you do the application my way and you do it correctly, then you would probably looking at a total kill time of two to three weeks. However, if you don't do it correctly then it will take longer. Therefore, you should not repair any damaged areas until you probe them for activity. Take a screwdriver and dig into the wood you want to replace and see if there are live termites in there. If there are, then hit them with another shot of the foam and wait another two weeks and try again. That is to say, I would not assign a timeline to it. The bottom line for me is to leave the wood in place until the infestation is totally gone and I would evaluate that ever two weeks by doing an inspection of the affected area. At that point you can do the repairs. That is what makes the most sense to me. You see? Now you know everything you never wanted to know about treating drywood termites. I'll bet you're sorry you asked the question. Lol. Be well Doug.
@@GuysPestSolutions Many thanks, great advice and guideline! To apply your points for drywood termite treatment, imagine a crossbow target with many circles(rectangles) zones, say 5 with the center target being zone 1. Zone 1,2,3 has been treated at the same time by Termidor form, after 2-3 weeks it will be safe to remove and replace zone 1 material. But for zone 3 replacement, zone 4 will need to be examined by the 2 week periodic timeframe, and if zone 4 needs to be treated then examine zone 5, etc. I guess one can apply the concept to different shapes. Now the question is the definition of zone width/length, I read one company's method to do spot treatment, they will extend the treatment to 30 inches (in all directions) beyond the active spot. My best bet for zone 1 will be 10 inches. And continue to probe/monitor outside the 30 inches boundary.
@@dougs3866 Here's the thing about treating drywood termites. The problem is not treating them. That's the easy part. The problem is finding them. They tend to establish small galleries in multiple locations throughout the building and they may be behind the drywall where you cannot see any frass or kick out holes. So, even the best pest controllers have a hard time finding all the galleries. If you cannot find a gallery, then you cannot treat it. That is why I advise people that the only sure fire way to totally eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. If you treat a gallery correctly, then it's going to die out within two or three weeks, no matter how large it is or whether or not it is located in just one piece of wood. The thing is though, how do you know that there is not another gallery in the next wall stud? If you look at my video on how to treat drywood termites yourself, I show you different ways to do the inspection, but none of them are 100 percent foolproof. If you miss even one gallery, then these guys are going to spread again to other areas of the building. Spot treating for drywood termites can be a lot like playing Whack A Mole. That is why I only recommend spot treating if you cannot afford to fumigate. Most pest control companies don't do it correctly, so you are better off doing it yourself. If you do fumigate, you should know that this provides no protection from future infestations and it is very likely that you will be reinfested within a year. That is because your neighbors have drywood termites too and they will swarm to your house fairly soon. The best way to prevent them is to follow the method I describe in my video on how to prevent drywood termites. If you don't do it, then you will be fumigating every few years and your home will constantly be getting eaten. I will give you a link to that video as well. I hope that helps. How to treat drywood termites yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html How to prevent a drywood termite infestation video: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Hi I live in WV. i understand that drywood termites are not in wv, but the frass i have looks only like drywood here is a picture. It is the salt and pepper pellet frass. No dust whatsoever, but lots of pellets
I never say never in pest control. Please send a photo to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Take the photo as close to the frass as you can get without losing focus. I need a crystal clear photo, so that I can look closely at those pellets. Also, please let me know if you purchased any furniture from an area where drywood termites are known to exist. Finally, let me know if you live near the coast. Be well Shirley.
Hi Guy! I live in Colorado and am pretty sure I have a drywood termite infestation in my garage because of the grass piles I'm finding. Would it be ok to send you a photo as well to help identify which termites I have? Thanks!
Have confirmed drywood termites in upstairs bathroom. 2-5 kick out holes found. I cannot tent. Do you have any suggestions to using termidor or Boracare as a spot treatment? Thanks for all your help!!!
Fumigation is the only sure way to get it done, but if that is not an option you can try spot treating it. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it. Be well my friend. Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thank you for your videos! Do you know what I should use to kill termites on my chicken coop? They are eating the coop in the bottom and I don’t think the chickens are eating because I see them walking on the floor.
Is the floor of the coop made of wood? If so, is it unpainted? If so, you can treat it with Bora-Care. I will provide links below. Also, please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species to see exactly what you have. This could affect your house without you knowing it. Mix the Bora-Care one to one with water. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html Bora-Care suppliers: www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html How to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
How do I locally treat drywood termites inside the wall studs in one bedroom wall. There are droppings through a small hole in the drywall. I live in Southern California and used to seeing this.
Before you start spot treating drywood termites, it is important to understand how they work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I will give you a link to my video on how to spot treat drywood termites yourself. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hi, guy, I want to know if I want to DIY to deal with the sub termite, I have drilled many holes on concrete but I cannot pour in enough termiticide into it, if you know any pressured machine can help this ? I also need to do local treatment for drywood termite, I could use these injection tool to push in orange oil or bora care as you recommended, can you give me some advices ? Appreciate your kindness of help.
Let's start with the subterranean termites. First, make sure that they are not Formosan termites. Those guys may need additional treatment. I will give you a link to my video on how to identify termite species. You do not always need to drill concrete. Most of the time you can just trench around it. I will give you a link to my video on how to trench properly. If you have a situation where you cannot trench around the concrete, then all you can do is hire a pro to treat that area. The pesticide needs to be injected under high pressure. This is best left to the pros. Now, let's talk about the drywood termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. My video will show you exactly how to do it. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to trench properly: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Just the exterior of the house): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hey Guy, I have been following your channel. I think I have dry wood termites in my crawl space here in Raleigh NC as I found fras under some of the floor joists runners but see no mud tunnels in the crawl space or the outside of the house. I bought some diy foam and also termite spray concentrate from Lowes which I applied liberally. I also sprayed around all the foundation boards on top of the cinder block and the plastic air vents. Do you think this type of spot will work or should I go ahead and order some bora-care and spray on the runners. Will either of these work without drilling holes in the floor joists beamsI did pull back the insulation and did not see any signs of damage to the plywood subfloor above the runner with my necked I. I have already ordered the granular treatment you recommended in other videos for subterranean termites. As far as the spot treatment under the house is concerned, would checking for new fras be a good way to test for success. I placed a two foot wide clean strip of plastic under one of the runners to check for fras later. Thanks for your advice in advance. John
I think we have a lot to unpack here. The very first thing you need to do is to confirm your suspicions that these are drywood termites. I have seen cases where people have mistaken carpenter ant frass for termite frass. I've also seen cases where people have mistaken mud from subterranean termites as drywood termite frass. It can be very easy to make these mistakes, if you do not know what you are looking at. So, my first recommendation is to stop trying to treat it until you know exactly what it is. Improper treatment can waste time, money, and actually make the situation worse. Most of the products that you can get locally can actually make a termite problem worse. The reasons for that require a lot of explanation, but suffice it to say, it is generally a bad idea to use these products. I understand that the thought of termites eating your house is pretty scary, but the good news is that most species of termites are very slow eaters, and so you actually do have the luxury of time to figure it out. So, please relax, and let's start at the beginning. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Also, please watch my video on how to tell the difference between carpenter ants and termites. These two videos should give you all the information you need to make a determination if you have drywood termites or something else. At that point, please get back to me and I will walk you through all your options for treating the problem. I promise that I will stay with you until you get this resolved. Applying the granules around the house is always a good idea, even if you do not have to termites. So, I would urge you to do that. The only thing is that you need to make sure that you get the correct granules. There are two kinds of granules now and one of them does not work, and may actually make the problem worse. You want the granules that you use imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Lowe's and Home Depot stores no longer sell the correct granules. They are still available from Amazon and I will give you a link to the product. I hope that helps. I will look forward to hearing back from you. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on the difference between carpenter ants and termites: ruclips.net/video/enJPS-h70Bs/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_7&=&crid=3UG5VHBQKWV2Z&=&sprefix=termite
Wow Guy, thanks for getting back to me so quickly and with such detail. I actually received my order of BIOADVANCED granules yesterday. I had already watched your video on identifying a couple of times. A couple of years back I did have an infestation of subterranean in my garage between the concrete pad and an indoor side wall that allowed them to into the ground at the expansion joint. I know they were subterranean now based on your description of their mud tunnels up the brick. With this new situation which could have been happening for a year as I hadn’t been to that area of the craw space for a while. Without finding any tunnels and not actually finding a termite I figured it must be the dry wood termite. After reading your comments though I will be sure to check out your video on the possibility that it might be ants. I will get back to you in a bit. Maybe the spray I used as it said it also kills Carpenter ants will have worked. Anyway, as I did place a wide piece of clean plastic on the ground below the sprayed beams, I would think I would have new fras evidence within in a couple of weeks if I still have a problem. I will get back to you in anycase. In the meantime, I will be putting down the granules as soon as the painters are done. It’s always something with home ownership says the retiree.
@@JRC2053 Sounds good. Please do get back to me and let me know if these are drywood termites, subterranean termites, or carpenter ants. Most of the time, this sort of thing turns out to be just a common variety of subterranean termites, and the granules do a fine job getting rid of them, but it is always a good idea to positively identify the species. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy. Glad I found your RUclips channel since I'm in the middle of replacing the drywood termite infested structures with the new woods. Before replacing the structure with new woods, I would like to spray the infested areas and new woods with some kind of chemical that would prevent termite infestations in the future since I just had the whole house fumigation done. If I were to spray either Spectracide Terminate 1.3 Gal. AccuShot Ready-to-Use Termite and Carpenter Ant Killer Spray or BIOADVANCED 1 Gal. Ready-to-Use Carpenter Ant and Termite Killer Plus (bought from Home Depot) first BEFORE spraying Bora-Care, would Bora-Care still effective to last a lifetime?? Since you mentioned that Bora-Care has to be applied on untreated & un-painted woods to be effective. I have the two above-mentioned chemicals (Spectracide Terminate and Bioadavanced) on hand already and thinking of using them first while waiting for the Bora-Care shipment to arrive. Should I use those 2 chemicals before applying Bora-Care? Thank you so much for your time in making the videos and replying to comments. Lots of valuable info are in your contents!
If you want to replace damaged wood with new wood and make it termite proof, then Bora-Care it's definitely the way to go. Always make sure that you mix it one to one with water for maximum effectiveness. Treating the wood with products that you get from Home Depot probably won't do any harm and probably won't prevent the Bora-Care from working, but they also will not do any good as well. Applying those products is pretty much a waste of time and money. So, if it were me, I would just treat all new wood with Bora-Care. All of that being said, you have a bigger problem. Drywood termites swarm every year, and the gas they used to fumigate your house has absolutely no residual action whatsoever. Therefore, your house is going to become reinfested the first time the termites swarm from your neighbors' homes. Trust me, if you had dry wood termites, your neighbors also have them. These guys are going to swarm again and they are going to find your house again. They may have already done it. Therefore, you should immediately begin to do a preventive treatment on the exterior of your home. I recommend that you do this treatment every 60 days. That is exactly what I do with my house. I will give you a link to the video on how to do it. I suggest that you order the products immediately and do the treatment the moment they arrive. Keep your fingers crossed that you get the treatment done before the termites swarm again. The beginning of the video shows you how to do it with a tank sprayer, but later in the video you will learn that you can also do it with a hose end sprayer. Doing this with a hose end sprayer is way faster than doing it with the tank sprayer, but you are not actually supposed to do it that way. By using a hose end sprayer, you will be exceeding label recommendations for the amount of product you are supposed to apply. However, I can assure you that this will not harm you or the environment. Also, the equipment is a lot cheaper to purchase as well. I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
It depend on where you are located and the size of the mobile home. Normally, you can expect to pay somewhere between $1200 to $3000. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your home at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your home, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
You already know that you need to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your home every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. You should begin the preventive treatment immediately to prevent even more termites from invading your home. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
I have Drywood Termites along a specific wall in a mobile home which is situated in Central Florida. Some of the walls (plywood) are paper thin! Can I remove these panels and simply spray all the joists with Borecare?
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. The first question I have to ask is, are you sure that you have drywood termites or could they be Formosan termites? I'm just curious how you identified the species. I mean, you could be correct, but this sounds like a lot of damage for drywood termites. If you are not sure, then please watch my video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link for it. For now though, let's assume that you are correct. The problem with drywood termites is that they are almost never limited to just one area of the building. They are also very difficult, if not impossible, to locate in every area where they have built a gallery. Therefore, the only sure way to get rid of them is to put a tent over the entire trailer and fumigate. Removing the plywood, as you suggested, and treating with Bora-Care is going to kill any termites they are inside the wall structure and it will make that entire wall structure permanently termite proof. The problem is though, as I have already explained, there is almost a zero possibility that the termites are limited to this one area. I would almost bet the ranch that they are in other walls and probably the ceiling/roof structure as well. So, my recommendations are to make sure that these guys are actually drywood termites, and if they are, then fumigate. If you confirm that these are drywood termites, you should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. To prevent this from happening you need to do a preventive treatment every 60 to 90 days. I have a video on that as well and I will give you a link below. It is important to understand, that if you have dry wood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. These guys swarm for several months out of the year, and they will definitely attack your trailer again the moment they swarm from one of your neighbors homes. Please let me know if these turn out to NOT be drywood termites, and I would be happy to guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to prevent drive with termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Hello sir, I found some termites in one room coming through the sheet rock what we'll have to be done for treatment, my wife and I live with 2 dogs will the sheetrock have to all come out of room and the furniture as well
Whether or not you need to remove the drywall will depend upon how serious the damage is. It is a little-known fact that termites will eat drywall. Most people think that termites eat wood and, while that is true, it is not totally accurate. Termites actually eat cellulose and the reason they eat wood is because it contains cellulose. The thing is though that they will eat pretty much anything that contains cellulose and paper is in that category. Since drywall is covered with paper on both sides, then it is a target for termites. Most of the time, you do need to do drywall repairs, but it is not always extensive. If you have drywood termites, then you may only have a small area that is damaged, and you may just be able to patch, it as opposed to tearing down a lot of it. The only places that you need to really repair would be areas where you can easily push a screwdriver through. A professional drywaller can probably repair these areas without removing a lot of the drywall. Make sure that these are actually drywood termites and not subterranean termites. If you have not done so already, then I would recommend that you call a pest control company and ask for a free termite inspection. If these guys are drywood termites, then I think you already know that the best way to treat them is to fumigate. If they are not drywood termites, then please get back to me and we can talk about the best way to treat for them. In any event, please do not sign a contract until you talk to me about it. Just thank the inspector for their time and let them know that you are going to get several estimates before you make any decisions. After you know the exact species, I can guide you on the best way to proceed with treating them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Can we non-professionals use BoraCare or Termidor SC to spray woods to prevent termites? Does BoraCare or Termidor SC have a lifetime effects on the treated woods ? What about the ones that sell at Home Depot?
Bora-Care will last forever, but Termidor will not, so you should treat wood with Bora-Care. Home Depot does not sell anything that will permanently treat wood for wood destroying pests. At least, I have never seen it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Hi Guy! Great content! I recently had a swarm of Formosan termites (inspector came out and confirmed they are Formosan). During the swarming in the garage. I found them in many different areas in the house. The inspector believes they got into the attic and began dropping down through the vents. I'm not 100% sure that's correct as I saw them on the ground and ceilings. My question is: how do I know if they are in the walls of my home? Pest control is coming out to trench the house with Termidex. Any other suggestions? Do I need to tent the house?
You're kind of blowing my mind a little bit. Formosan termites do not enter through the attic. They are a very aggressive species of subterranean termites and they always attack from the ground. You often do see them in addicts, but that is because they built mud tubes into the attic from the ground. So, they are not going from the attic down, but rather from the ground up. Of course, all of that is irrelevant, because the treatment is the same. The very first thing that needs to be done is to trench around the entire house. Unfortunately, that is not always enough to get rid of these guys. Formosan termites are the only species of subterranean termites in the United States that have the capability to colonize in your home. They do this by building "cartons" in your walls and sometimes even in your attic. These cartons give them the ability to survive without returning to the ground. That means you could have any number of these cartons in your home and the pest control company should be looking for them. Just to be clear, if you have these cartons in your home, then trenching alone may not totally stop the infestation. It will take out a large part of it, but if there are cartons, then you will still have these very aggressive eaters munching away on your home. If you wish to know exactly how Formosan termites operate and what needs to be done to get rid of them, then watch my video on the subject. I will place a link below. This video will show you how to find those cartons. If you find cartons, there are two ways you can deal with them. The way it is usually done is that the drywall is removed and then the carton is removed from the wall, and then the wall is repaired. The other way you can do it is to tent and fumigate the entire house. Removing the cartons is usually the least expensive option. I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
@@Joshtancos_sk8 There are some techniques, know as "integrated pest management," that can be successful to some extent. For example, you can do things like keep trash can lids tightly closed to help prevent rats, or you can seal up cracks and crevices in the side of the building to stop pests from entering, and that sort of mechanical control. However, companies that offer to treat with things that they claim to be natural, are often just selling you snake oil. Some of those things work in certain situations, but oftentimes they do not work at all. Sometimes you need to use them in conjunction with actual pesticides. So, the success or failure of these more natural treatments is largely dependent upon the knowledge of the applicator and the specific target pests in question. As a general rule though, I think you would usually better off using standard pesticides. They are no longer as hazardous as they were in the last century. Just like cell phones, pesticides have come a long way in the 21st century. They are all now safe enough for children to play on after they dry. If you would like to know more about the safety of using pesticides, you can learn the truth by watching my video on the subject. I will give you a link to it. Be well my friend. Video explaining the truth about using pesticides: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
Hi Guy! A termite company identified drywood termites in my attic and crawlspace. Besides tent fumigation, how effective are chemical free solutions for drywood termites like heat tenting? Any downside to heat tenting? I'm already living in my home and want to explore other options too. I heard you say spot treatment is less effective -- the little buggers travel and often not visible. Thanks so much!
It is a fact that heat will kill drywood termites. The problem is that you need to heat the termites to a temperature of at least 120° for at least a couple of hours. This is not so easy to do because the termites are typically located in the center of the wood, and wood is a natural insulator. That means it is difficult to heat. This problem is compounded by the fact that there's often insulation surrounding the wood, not to mention drywall. Further, there will often be drywood termites located in the fascia boards, roof rafters, sheathing under the exterior siding, and other difficult places to heat. Some companies will put a tent over the house to contain the heat, but not all companies do it this way. Some companies simply attempt to heat the house from the inside. Obviously, failing to tent the house is going to fail because you are not going to adequately heat the areas I just mentioned. Even if you tent the house, it is not enough to raise the temperature to 120°. You need to get the temperature to 120° inside every single piece of wood in the entire house. So, the question becomes, “How do you know if you accomplished this?” There is no practical way to determine if the center of every piece of wood in the house reaches the desired temperature. Therefore, this process is hit and miss at best. It can be successful sometimes, but it is not a sure thing. Also, these high temperatures can cause damage to electronic equipment and that sort of thing, so those things need to be removed from the house before the treatment is performed. Keep in mind that, if you want to reach the desired temperature in the center of all the wood, the actual temperature in the building will need to be much higher than 120°. If any component in that house does not reach the desired temperature, then the process may fail because a gallery was missed. Fumigation on the other hand is a sure thing. The gas goes right through everything and there is no escaping it. The advantage of using heat is that the turnaround time is much faster, and the process is going to be much safer. However, the cost of both of these treatments is probably going to be very similar. If you fumigate, I always recommend staying out of the house for at least 7 days after they tell you it is safe to go back in. There are accidents that happen every year, and some people have died because they went into the structure too soon after the fumigation was done. If you wait an additional 7 days, then the gas will certainly be gone by that time. So, if you do it right, then fumigation is perfectly safe. I always tell people that you should plan a two-week vacation if you're going to do fumigation. If you go with heat, it is pretty much safe to go back in after the process is finished, but I think it is unlikely that this process will eliminate all the galleries. For that reason, I do not recommend using heat. My opinion has always been, and still is, that fumigation is the only sure way to eliminate drywood termites. As far as I know, there is no chemical free way of eliminating drywood termites. Both fumigation and heat treatments have no residual properties. Therefore, since your neighbors also have drywood termites, you need to do a preventive treatment on the building beginning before any treatments are done. This will ensure that you do not get reinfested. I have a video on how to do that and I'll provide a link below. This is a generic video that was created to prevent a lot of pests, but it also works to prevent drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Simply treat the house every 60 days, and you will be good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
My home is 120 years old and I have removed all of the drywall and insulation. I have bare wood. I have 2 gallons of Taurus SC. Can I use this instead of boracare to spray all of the wood? I assume I have a nest in a rafters after hearing the soldier termite headbanging after I alarmed them.
If you have the wood exposed, then it's a no-brainer. Always use the Bora-Care. This is a permanent treatment and never needs to be reapplied. The Taurus SC is not permanent. Also, the Taurus SC cannot be used inside the house. Always mix the Bora-Care one part Bora-Care to one part water. Do not mix it one to five. This will kill any termites that are in the wood and prevent new ones. If you are seeing galleries, then drill holes into the galleries, about halfway through the wood and about four inches apart, and shoot fipronil foam into the holes. The holes only need to be wide enough for the applicator tip to enter. Shoot the foam in each hole for about five seconds or until it is either coming back out at you or it is coming out of the other holes that you drilled. Foam should either be going into or out of every hole. This will speed up the process. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Yes it does help tremendously. I appreciate your quick reply and value your knowledge that you are passionate to share for all to hear. I will do just as you said and put my worry to rest. Thank you very very much GUY!
Hi Guy, thank you for your informative videos. Since we can't find anyone to do the whole house Boracare or Microwave can we use something like the FLIR TG165-X to see colonies in studs and joists through drywall ourselves before spot treatment? It's obviously more expensive than the endoscope, but non-destructive and a tenth of the cost of a fumigation. We have had our basement treated with boracare and don't have an attic, but want to be more proactive and can't spray outside due to the dimensions/height of the home (which also cause fumigation tenting to be extremely expensive).
I know that there are some pest controllers who do use thermal imaging to try and detect drywood termites. It's another tool that can be used to help locate galleries, but I think it is unlikely that you will find all of them, and it is not beyond the realm of possibility that you will not find any of them. So, I don't know that it is worth the investment. You may want to try and rent one from Home Depot for a day and just see if you have any luck with it, before you purchase one. If you cannot afford any other treatment method, then spot treating is your best option, but you can probably do a better job yourself than the pest controllers will do. My video on how to treat drywood termites yourself explains exactly how to do it. Spot treating drywood termites is kind of like playing whack a mole. The galleries are going to keep showing up and you are going to need to keep treating them. If you do this yourself, you will quickly get the hang of it, and you will be able to do it better and more cost effectively than farming it out. Please tell me why the dimensions and height of the home are a problem with regards to treating the exterior. I have a few tricks up my sleeve that can help with those sorts of issues. Keep in mind, that if you do not treat the exterior every 60 days, then the termites are going to continue to attack your home. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for your detailed reply, Guy! Your idea of renting the FLIR is a good one. Last night I found a local company that MIGHT use the thermal imaging and might (to my surprise) offer the semi-permanent solution of injecting foam (still waiting on the exact details) into existing drywalled spaces. The issue with spraying the exterior ourselves is that we have a hillside home where certain parts of the exterior feature a ~50 foot drop and uneven very sloped ground below that. I would give you the address but I don't exactly want to do that on youtube for obvious reasons, but if you're familiar with Los Angeles it's a pretty familiar setup, but comes with all kinds of maintenance headaches. So maybe if there's a 50 foot spraying hose extension I could get it done...but otherwise it seems (from my uneducated perspective) impossible to spray often without installing a permanent scaffolding around the house or repelling =P This is also why tenting is extraordinarily expensive...most places would have to get a commercial building sized tent but then do weird stuff to fasten it at the front since the street height is only one storey..
@@andrewlorenzlong If you can find a company that is willing to treat with Bora-Care foam, then that is probably a really good option for you because it is a permanent treatment. I am understandably skeptical that they will be able to treat all the galleries, but the areas that they do treat can never become infested with termites again. At a minimum, this will greatly limit the areas of damage. If you should discover a termite gallery after the treatment, then you can call the company back and ask them to treat that one area. The other nice thing about the Bora-Care treatment is that you do not need to worry about treating the outside because, again, this is a permanent treatment, so you cannot get reinfested. The biggest problem with this method is that it is hard to find anybody that will do it. Now, if you cannot find somebody to do the Bora-Care treatment. Then, it is still a good idea to figure out a way to do the exterior treatment every 60 days. If you send me photos of all sides of the house, I may be able to give you a solution to the problem. You can send the photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I cannot promise that I will solve this for you, but I have been doing this a very long time, and I have a few little known tricks up my sleeve. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I had my home fumigated in August of 2022. I had dry wood termites. I am now seeing swarmers again can i treat them or do I need to have another fumigation?
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home, even though you were fumigated in 2022. However, they should not be swarming already. Like I said, it takes 4 to 7 years for them to be able to swarm. That means that the fumigation may not have worked. It's one thing to see frass after a year, but you should not be seeing swarmers, unless they flew in from the house next-door. If you are seeing a lot of swarmers in the house, then you may want to contact the pest control company and tell them that they failed. They may tell you that you just got reinfested, but now you know better. The termites cannot swarm for at least 4 years. No way they can swarm after one year.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. Hopefully, the company that did the fumigation will stand behind their work and fumigate again, but I wouldn't hold my breath. It's worth asking though. Probably they will just offer to spot treat, which is a waste of time. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
a friend has had dry wood termites in her kitchen cabinets for over 3 years. How bad do you think the damage? thank you. also would you buy a termite infested home?
Both interesting questions. I suppose the answer to both questions is, "It depends." Let's start with the first question. It's always hard to say how bad an infestation is going to be because you really don't know when or where it began. There is a reasonably good chance that it did not start in the kitchen cabinets and also a reasonably good chance that it is not limited to the kitchen cabinets. The good news is that drywood termites are fairly slow eaters and they limit themselves to fairly small galleries. The bad news is that they have the ability to create lots of new galleries all over the place. They may be in the attic, the walls, furniture, and so forth. The problem is finding them. Even the pros have a hard time locating all the galleries. That is the reason why fumigating is the recommended treatment. So, I think it's reasonable to presume that the infestation is not limited to the kitchen cabinets and there are probably any number of galleries throughout the house at this point. It is impossible to tell if there is any structural damage without doing an inspection, so I would recommend that your friend get one done ASAP. The inspections are free, so why not? Just tell her not to sign anything. As I explained in the video, there are a number of treatment options and prices can vary greatly. She should get several inspections done and get several estimates. With regard to purchasing a termite infested home, well, I'm a pest controller. So, for me, I would easily be able to tell how much damage has been done to the building and, if the damage was not that bad, then yes I would purchase the property. For someone who is not a pest controller, the seller customarily is required to have a termite inspection done at their expense. Also, most banks require that the seller pay to have the termite problem resolved prior to the closing and the property needs to be certified as termite free by a qualified pest control company. If there is structural damage, then that should be noted in the inspection report. Homes should also be inspected by a qualified home inspector as well. The cost of this inspection is usually paid by the buyer and prices usually run around two to three hundred dollars. It's part of this inspector's job to find structural damage and any other problems with the building. This inspection is well worth the money. Far too many people cheap it out to save a couple of hundred dollars and then get stuck with some major problems that need to be resolved. It's far better to spend the money and find nothing wrong, than to save the money and find out later that you purchased a money pit. A lot of people don't do it because the sale falls through for some reason after they spend the money and they get tired of laying out a couple of hundred dollars every time they put down good faith money on a home. I get it, but it's just part of the price of buying a home. Anyway, termites would not be a deal killer for me, if there is no serious structural damage, the problem is taken care of, and the price is right. Now, if the price is super good, like a foreclosure or something, and the house is an "as is" deal, I would consider purchasing it even with serious structural damage. It's just that the cost of repairs is going to need to be reflected in the purchase price. So, if the house is worth $300,000 and there is $50,000 worth of structural repairs needed, then I am going to want the property for less than $250,000, because I need to cover the cost of my time to pull it all together and I need some cushion in case things get more expensive than the estimates would suggest. So, my offer may only be $200,000. Like I said, "It depends." I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you so much for your thorough answers! :) My friend rents a condo, so she says she doesn't need to worry about it because that is why she rents LOL I assume it's in all of the condo units where she is at if they are in hers. She said the building was tented about 7 years ago and noticed the frass starting agin about 6 years ago. I would assume the condo is toast by now
@@GuysPestSolutions should I advise her to have the landlord or HOA tent her condo building with her belongings in it before she moves, when/if she moves? would that eliminate the problem of her moving the infestation to a new place?
@@hideoussails1783 That sounds about right. If the building was fumigated seven years ago, then it's a safe bet that it was reinfested not too long after and it generally takes a couple of years to start noticing the damage again. The good news is that your friend is correct. This is not her problem. That is, unless the owner decides to fumigate again. If that is the case, she will need to vacate for several days while the work is being performed. Other than that, it's nothing for her to worry about. Drywood termites are not harmful to people. It should be noted though that these guys can and do infest furniture. Even upholstered furniture often has wood framing that can become infested. Should she ever buy a home, it is possible that she can bring a piece of infested furniture with her and get an infestation in her own house. Just something to keep in mind.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much. I'll let her know :) If they infest the furniture, if they fumigated right before she moved out, would she not have to worry about her furniture in the new place?
That is an interesting question. There has been some laboratory research done on this, but I'm not aware of any field testing in real life situations. So, how cold it needs to get to kill any species of termites is somewhat unclear. I think the general consensus would be that temperatures of 30° Fahrenheit would probably not be sufficient to kill the termites. Their metabolism would most likely just slow down to the point that they would not be active, but it probably wouldn't kill them. Also, you need to take into consideration that just because the temperature outside is 30 degrees, that does not mean the temperature inside the wood where the gallery is located is also going to be 30 degrees. Wood is actually a pretty good insulator, so it would have to be 30 degrees outside for a very long time before the temperature inside the wood would be equal to the temperature that you are seeing outside the building. That being said, drywood termites typically do not survive well in climates where the temperature routinely falls below freezing. It is not the absence of heat that kills them, but rather the absence of humidity. Humidity and temperature seem to be closely related. The colder it gets, the less humidity there usually is. For any species of termites to survive, they need moisture. Subterranean termites obtain this moisture from the ground. Since drywood termites are not subterranean, they colonize in the wood itself. Therefore, they must obtain the moisture they need from the humidity in the air. In places where it is cold all winter long, the humidity drops to a point where drywood termites cannot survive. That is why you usually just find them in southern coastal states, California, and Hawaii. You will also find them in a variety of other countries as well. Typically, you find them near the coast because there is more humidity there. If you watch my video on how to identify termite species, you can see where drywood termites are located in the US. I have a map in that video, and drywood termites only survive in the red areas on the map. I suppose I could have simply said no, but I thought you would prefer to read a more in-depth explanation. I hope that helps. Be well Becky. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Do drywood termites need to pair up to start a colony like the subterranean variety? I sometimes see winged termites but they are alone and if they go into a crack or hole in my exterior of the house it is not likely a mate will be there.
There are over 2,000 different species of termites in the world. To the best of my knowledge, they all require a queen and a king in order to reproduce. Typically, the swarmers travel in pairs, consisting of one queen and one king. In the case of drywood termites, the king and queen fly to your house and enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, in the eaves, or through some sort of other penetration like pipes that enter the building. That being said, it is not uncommon to see just once swarmer. Termites do not live long when they are exposed to the air. They dehydrate pretty quickly, so they have a very limited time to establish a new gallery. Sometimes, either the king or the queen die before they can accomplish this, so you will just see one. Don't be fooled though. Termites swarmers do not usually travel alone. If you see one termite swarmer, it is very likely that they were a lot of others that were flying towards your house at the same time. They're called swarmers for a reason. That is because they travel in swarms. Many of them leave the galleries at the same time, so it is not unusual to see quite a few of them attacking a building. Also, if you see just one drywood termites swarmer, then it means there is at least one building, and probably many more, in your neighborhood that is already invested. One of those buildings may be yours. Since termites swarm every year for several weeks, it is a safe bet that you have been getting swarmed for a long time now, and it is very possible that you are already infested. A lot of the time you never see these guys, until it is too late. It takes 4 to 7 years for a gallery to mature to the point where it can produce swarmers. Also, even though drywood termites produce frass, this frass is often hidden in the walls where you can't see it. After the termites start to swarm, they will travel through holes in this wall studs that were drilled by the electricians to run the wiring. That means they will likely be in multiple places throughout your home, and you may be totally unaware of it. Unfortunately, if you are infested with drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices can vary a lot in this industry for fumigation, so please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. You may not need it right now, but hang on to it in case you do. That video may save you a lot of money. There is also a treatment that you can begin using to prevent a drywood termite infestation. I will give you a link to that video as well. This will do nothing to kill off an existing infestation if you have one, but it will prevent any more drywood termites from entering your home. Please note that if you fumigate, the gas they use has no residual action, and you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Therefore, you need to begin the preventive treatment prior to getting a fumigation done. I recommend doing this treatment every 60 days. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. Just the house.): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
I have a wood shed in my backyard with termites in the floor. The shed is small enough to purchase a tarp at Harbor Freight to act as a tent for gas treatment. I was tempted to run this machine that vibrates the floor like hell to chase them out. I made the shed into a mancave with bookcase full of books, couch, TV, etc. Do I need to remove everything out for the gas poison?
Are you sure that these are drywood termites? Tenting only works for drywood termites and not subterranean termites. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Let me know what you find out and I can tell you the best way to treat the problem. Is the floor covered with carpet, tile, or something like that, or is it just plywood? Are the walls covered with drywall or anything? How large is the shed and is it just one room? Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Gas will work for drywood termites, but what kind of gas were you planning to use? If the floor and the walls are not finished, then there are other treatment options for drywood termites that would be better. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/FN7JyBNSooY/видео.html
@GuysPestSolutions I live in San Bernardino, California High desert. My shed is 12×16 one room. The shed has sheets of plywood floors that are varnished on top. The shed is insulated, drywall, textured and painted, wired with electrical outlets, air conditioning, and French doors. The floor has several pin holes with wood granules mounds like ant hills. There is no sight of any termites to know what species. Thanks.
@@JERRYR708 Please tell me more about the wood granules mounds. Look closely at that material. Is it shaped like tiny pellets or is it more like mud? Can you move it easily with your finger or is it hard? Does it look a lot like sawdust, but is not shaped like tiny pellets?
@@JERRYR708 Do you suppose you could send me a photo of those pellets? Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and use that same technique to photograph this material. Take a photo close up and also one a bit further away for size reference. You can send them to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. This is sounding a lot like drywood termites, but let's make sure. Be well my friend.
I'm not sure how to answer that question exactly. It's a little like comparing apples to oranges. With the fipronil foam, in the aerosol cans, we are drilling holes directly into the wood. That particular application method allows the foam to really find its way through every little nook and cranny that is created by the termites. Also, the hole that you need to drill is much smaller with the aerosol cans than it would be with the B&G foamer. That being said, using a B&G foamer and applying Bora-Care is a great way to attack drywood termites. The only thing is that we generally do not drill holes directly into the wood, like we do with the fipronil foam cans. That is because, unlike the fipronil foam, the Bora-Care will penetrate the wood simply by touching it. That means we do not need to drill all those holes throughout the entire area that we are treating. Generally, with a B&G foamer, all you need to do is drill one hole in between the studs and just foam the wall void. So, you do not need to drill all those holes like you would with a fipronil foam can. Further, unlike fipronil, the Bora-Care is permanent. Therefore, the answer to your question is both yes and no. You can certainly use the B&G foamer, but you need to do it in a different way and the results may even be better than with the fipronil foam. In fact, if you were to give me my choice of the two applications being discussed, I would opt for the B&G former. The only reason I do not dive into that too much in my video is because the foamers are somewhat expensive. Also, you can use the foamer to treat the attic as well. I will share a couple of videos on how to treat the entire house with the foamer. Please understand though that foaming with Bora-Care is not a panacea. The videos make it sound like a sure thing, but you are still likely to miss galleries. Still, it is superior to the fipronil foam. At least, that is my opinion. I hope that answers your question. Be well my friend. Video 1 on how to treat for drywood termites with Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/kXQTc9wwCfQ/видео.html Video 2 on how to treat for drywood termites with Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/7hajP8VrK0I/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for the thorough answer. I have both products but felt that if the boracare kills the colony just as well I like the long life potential of the products and the way it permeates the wood that I might miss. Also the tip is only 3/16th of an inch so I could also hit the studs with lots of activity with some drilled holes. Unfortunately the townhome I just purchased has alot of drywood termites. How would you suggest to do a ceiling with no attic space. It has a cement shingle roof so I prefer to stop the termites seeing how there is alot of weight. Thanks for your time.
@@1nomadman It certainly doesn't hurt to foam directly into the wood with the foamer, but the holes are going to be somewhat wider than with the fipronil cans. For FiPro you only need about a 1/8-inch-wide hole, but with the foamer you may need to drill a bit wider than the 3/16-inch size of the foamer tip. I'm thinking you would want a 1/4-inch hole. It's a bit easier to patch a 1/8-inch hole rather than a 1/4-inch hole. You can experiment a little with it to see what works best for you. To be totally honest with you, I don't know how you can treat above the ceiling effectively. You can try foaming it, but it's really going to be a Hail Mary Pass. This is why you need to fumigate. I understand that the neighbor's often times do not understand the problem and won't do anything about it, but you should definitely try. You know that the termites are probably eating the rafters, so it's just a matter of time before those rafters fail. At that point you are looking at God only knows how much money to fix it. It will run in the thousands to be sure. The entire roof may need to be removed from the entire building, neighbors' and all. Then it's sister rafters and replacing the sheathing and shingles. I shudder to think of what that will cost. The only good news there is that the entire framework can then be treated with Bora-Care before it is closed up again and the sheathing can also be treated before it is installed. That will prevent the problem from happening again, but at what cost? Fumigating makes much better sense to me. You should really try to have a meeting with the neighbors. I would be more than happy to talk to them. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions I tried to convince the neighbors but unfortunately they would not all go for it so I'm kinda stuck. Oddly enough one doesn't believe that they have termites which is laughable because they are only one unit away and I don't think drywood termites discriminate . Maybe a microwave treatment would work 🤔
@@1nomadman I am not surprised that you have neighbors who are in denial about the problem. I would be way more surprised if you had neighbors who were not in denial about the problem. This is the same story that I hear over and over again. Unfortunately, if your neighbor's roof collapses, then your unit may get flooded with water and your unit may even be declared as not structurally sound. That is why, when you buy a townhouse or a condominium, you are kind of marrying your neighbors in a way. That is also why it is a good idea for condominiums and townhomes to have condo associations. When there are condo associations, then neighbors can literally be required by the association to do the fumigation. It's the same with things like making sure the exterior of the buildings are painted a similar or complementary color or making sure that everybody replaces their roof when it needs to be done. In the absence of a condo association then you are left at the mercy of whatever your neighbors wish to do. Unfortunately, one of the big reasons people buy condos and townhomes in the first place is because they do not have the money to purchase a single-family home. That being the case, it is not likely that everybody is going to agree to a major purchase like this unless they have no choice. Sometimes it's because they are just simply in denial, but sometimes it's more logical. If you know anything about drywood termites, you know that they are very slow eaters and it takes a long time for structural damage to occur. So, if one of your neighbors is planning to sell their unit within the next year or two, it might make sense to them to simply sell and not bother with the drywood termites. Of course, the problem that they may run into is that banks usually want a termite inspection and, if the inspector finds the drywood termites, that sale is most likely not going to take place. Either way, people have a way of shooting themselves in the foot. Microwaving is fairly new technology for the treatment of drywood termites. Most of the time, it is only used on the walls, but it is within the realm of possibility that there may be a way to modify the unit so that it can be used for a ceiling such as yours. I'm kind of guessing that you have drywall attached directly to the rafters and that is why you do not have an attic. If that is the case, then it is possible that a microwave unit could resolve the issue, if there was a way to keep it against the ceiling. I have no personal experience with using these units and so I don't know if it's possible or not. You may want to call around to see if you can find a pest control company that uses this type of a unit. You may have difficulty finding one because the technology is fairly new. You may also consider purchasing a Termatrac T3i. These things are not cheap and I think they cost around $2700. Still, your home is a major investment and so it may pay to have this equipment on hand so that you can find where all the drywood termites are located. You could also ask around to see if any of the termite companies use this piece of equipment. I have never had one, but I understand that they are pretty accurate in locating termite activity. If those two ideas are not an option for you, you may try a less expensive option of purchasing a thermal imaging camera. The jury is still out on exactly how effective this equipment is in locating drywood termites, but some people do report that they have had success with it. I think you can purchase one of these units on Amazon for around for $500. You may want to check out eBay as well to see if you can find either the Termatrec T3i or the thermal imaging camera used. Sometimes you can get lucky. If you could score either of these items and practice a little on using them, you may be able to offer your neighbors a free service to check out their units as well. In that same line of thinking, you may suggest to your neighbors that they get a free inspection done by a professional pest control company. The inspections are free, so they may go for it. I wish I had more to offer. You are definitely in a difficult situation. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Recently I have noticed termites inside my house, places are two rooms on hardwood floor, one spot in attic and two spots in crawl space, they did inspection and told me it ll cost $3000 for heat treatment and fumigation will cost $3500 house is 978 square feet. I need your advice. Thank you 🙏
Heat treatments do not work well and can cause damage to a lot of items in the house. Fumigation is pretty much a sure thing, so that is the way I would go. I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It may save you a lot of money. Don't take the first price you get. It pays to shop. When it comes to fumigation, the lowest bidder is usually fine. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you so much, by watching your video I just ordered bora care , planing to do it by myself. Wish me luck thank you 🙏 your new subscribers
@@lobodorji3217 Make sure you mix the Bora-Care one to one with water and not one to five. Don't believe the label. Also, cold water works just fine. No need to use hot water. Don't worry. You will do a good job. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy, do you know if it's okay to leave electronics like TVs, laptops, computers in a house that is being tented? Or does the fumigation destroy them? thanks
It is perfectly okay to leave all your electronics in the house during fumigation. The gas will not harm any of those items. In fact, it's probably a good idea to have them in the house. While there are probably no termites in your electronics, there could be other bugs that have taken up residence in you TV, computer, or such as that and the gas will kill all of those guys as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I have drywood termite swarmers showing up in a place I bought recently and I haven't slept well in weeks... The told me there hasnt been any active termites for 2+ years, and now 2 months into living here I already see swarmers and from my research that means they have been here for a minimum of 4 years already...You mentioned Drywoods are slow eaters, how slow are they? If they have been here for years am I looking at some serious damage??
It's hard to know for sure how long the termites have been there, but if these are drywood termites, they don't operate like subterranean termites. With subterranean termites there is one colony that is always underground somewhere, but with drywood termites there are multiple galleries that are in the wood itself. Galleries tend to be fairly small before the swarmers leave and start new galleries. So, you end up with a number of small galleries with drywoods, instead of one area that is extensively eaten, like with subterranean termites. Since drywoods do eat slowly and the galleries are relatively small, it takes time for them to do serious structural damage, but it will happen. The galleries will get larger over time and, eventually, the infested wood will fail. It is hard to put a timeline on it, but if the problem has been going on for four years, then it is possible that some wood has been seriously compromised. At the same time, it is possible that you are still okay. Your best bet would be to get an inspection done, as outlined in my video. Since different pest controllers approach the problem differently, it is wise to get multiple estimates and opinions. It's one of those things you just need to put your eye on to see what is going on and exactly how bad it is. Drywood termites are hard to find, so the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. I'm sorry that I cannot be of more help. I know that I am not telling you anything that is particularly helpful, but this is the nature of drywood termites. The best advice I can give you is to do what I suggest in the video. Get the inspections done and, if these are drywood termites, do your best to fumigate. Prices vary greatly in this industry, so be sure to get several estimates. Be well Bryan. I am so sorry that you are having this problem. There was no way for you to see it coming.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your response. Unfortunately I live in a townhome and the neighbors have been insistent that they don't see termites so they don't feel the need to tent. I would 100% tent if i could, I would even cover most of the cost even for the other townhomes if they allowed it. I know that they could obviously re-enter the home but I would be cleaning the slate and making them totally rebuild their numbers which would put me at ease. As far as assessing damage already done by them, what type of person would you recommend to assess it? A termite inspector or a General Contractor? or both?
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, RUclips did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please let me know if this has not been resolved and I will explain your options. You may want to use the email.
Hey Guy, what treatment option is left if the house is attached to another because that means you can’t fumigate if the house has an abutting structure? And spot treatment won’t possibly eliminate all the dry wood termites, only the ones you see.
To add more context, our two story house has wood siding and we found areas of frass along the wood siding. A few Termite guys came and said we have dry wood termites but one of them say the only way to get rid of all of them is to replace our siding with hardie board. The other said we can do spot treatment all along the wood siding.
@@pwngladiator I am so sorry to hear that you're in this situation. You are not alone though. There are many people who are facing this problem. It sounds like you have a very good understanding of how drywood termites work. This being the case, I think you already know that the pest controllers that looked at your siding have no clue about what they're doing. The odds of your drywood termite infestation being limited to the siding, would be kind of like winning the lottery. It would be one chance in several million. Trust me, if the termites are in the siding, then they have entered into the walls as well. I would almost bet the ranch that they are also in the attic. The problem is, as you already know, these guys are very difficult to detect. They can be eating away at you wall structures or roof structure for years before you realized that they are there. The pest controllers that you had inspect should have inspected the attic, but what I hear from people all the time is that the pest controllers do not go up there and even have a look. So, it would not surprise me if that was your experience as well. It is getting harder and harder to find pest controllers that are qualified to do this type of inspection. At least they were able to identify the species and so you now know what you are dealing with. The first piece of advice that I always give to people in your situation is to talk to the other owners of this structure to see if they will agree to a fumigation. Any pest controller that tells you that they can spot treat the problem successfully, either does not know what they're doing or they are lying to you. A knowledgeable and reputable pest controller is going to tell you that you need to fumigate. As you are already aware, if you have dry wood termites, then everybody in the entire building has them as well. Of course, the problem people often run into is that their neighbors do not realize they have drywood termites or they do not understand the gravity of the situation. Either way, they are not going to shell out a couple of thousand dollars to get a fumigation done. Still, I think the first thing that you need to do is have a talk with all the owners of the building and explain to them what is going on. You can offer to arrange to have their units inspected by a qualified pest controller. Oftentimes, when people realize that they do have this problem, and their condo or townhome is in the process of being destroyed, they may agree to do something about it. If you offer to do all the leg work, it gives you the advantage of choosing a pest controller that will not try to sell people a spot treatment. If you are fortunate enough to have a condo association, then you can advise them of the situation. In most cases, they would have the authority to mandate a fumigation or at least bring everybody together to vote on the problem. It has been my experience that sometimes these things work and sometimes they do not. Unfortunately, if you cannot convince your neighbors to all agree to a fumigation, then the only real alternatives were outlined in the video. Sadly, none of these options are going to solve the problem. Even if you spot treat your unit and you are fortunate enough to kill all the galleries you have, the termites are going to continue to reinfest because they're going to be coming from adjoining units. Further, if serious structural damage results in an adjoining unit, that may render your unit uninhabitable. So, the bottom line is, if you cannot get the entire building fumigated, then the best you can do is to spot treat yourself or hire somebody to do it. As you already know, the best this will do is to maybe slow down the inevitable. Drywood termites are slow eaters, but it's kind of like failing to treat cancer. Even if it's a slow growing cancer, eventually it is going to kill you. It's the same way with drywood termites. It can take years before there is serious structural failure, but you can pretty much count on it at some point. There is no telling how long the problem has been going on and how much damage is already done. Therefore, the bottom line is that, if you cannot get the building fumigated, then my advice would be to sell and purchase a single-family home. The only good news here is that you probably have the luxury of time. I would not sit on the problem, but you do have time to see if the neighbors will agree to a fumigation. If that fails, then you do have time to sell and look for a single-family home that you can afford. I wish I had better news for you. At least now you are aware of the problem and you understand what your options are. I feel really bad for you and I wish that I could be of more assistance. Unfortunately, all I can do is just confirm the reality that you already understand. If you would like tips on how to hire a qualified pest controller, without getting ripped off, then please have a look at my video on the subject. I will place a link below. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions so we live in the west coast and our structure is actually a single family home (not condo) but they are all connected to other houses on the same block. What makes you think they have gotten into the framing? We’ve only seen evidence of frass on the outside of our siding. Never found any inside of the house. Our wood siding is still structurally good so why wouldn’t the termites be happy with just eating that? And if we replace our siding and expose the stud framing, then can’t we see if we see evidence if they have gotten farther in and do treatment?
@@pwngladiator Are the houses physically touching each other? A photo would be very helpful. You can send one to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I think tearing the siding off of the house would kind of be putting the cart before the horse. That would be an expensive thing to do, just to learn that it did not solve the problem. The reason I do not believe that the problem is limited to the siding is because that is not how drywood termites work. Unlike subterranean termites that live in the ground, drywood termites are kind of the Air Force of the termite species. These guys swarm for several months every year and they fly directly to your home and can enter through any type of crack or crevice that they can find. That means if they are in your siding then it's a fairly safe bet that they have also found cracks or crevices that are around your windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Further, siding is not very thick, so it would not be beyond the realm of possibility that they ate their way through to the other side and are swarming inside your walls. It is very possible that you would not see frass inside the house because they are kicking the frass out on the sides of the 2 x4's that are located inside the walls. The reason the termites are not happy just eating your siding is because drywood termites do not work that way. That would be subterranean termite behavior. Drywood termites like small galleries and they create many of them throughout the building. Every time they swarm, they are looking for new locations to invest. It is important to understand that the swarmers are actually reproductives, looking for a new place to start a gallery. By the time you realize you have a drywood termite problem, you usually have many galleries located throughout the building. Now, I always tell people that I have learned to never say never in pest control, so it is always possible that I am incorrect. However, I think removing the siding, just to find out that you have a much more serious problem, will do nothing but add a lot of expense to your ultimate solution. That is to say, the overwhelming odds are in favor of a much more widespread infestation than it is a localized infestation that is limited to the siding. Yes, if you do remove the siding, and if you remove the underlayment that is behind the siding, in order to expose the studs, then you can see if there is an infestation in the studs. However, that still will not tell you if there is an infestation in your attic. So, if it were me, the very first thing I would do is inspect the attic. If you have them in the attic, then it's almost a certainty that you have them in the walls as well. If the problem is limited to the siding, then all you really need to do is spot treat the galleries. Those are easy to find because they ALWAYS create kick out holes. If there is a gallery that has no kick out holes, then those kick out holes are on the other side of the gallery that are inside your walls. In any event, removing the siding would not be a cost effective or necessary solution. At least, that's how it seems to me. I hope that helps.
Dampwood termites like to colonize in wet wood instead of the ground. It is possible for them to colonize in your home, but that would only be the case if you had very wet wood. That can happen from leaks that are not repaired. As a general rule though, we do not see them in homes very often. If you are seeing them in the soil, you need to make sure that they are dampwood and not a different species. If you are seeing them in the ground and if you live somewhere like Arizona, then they could be desert termites. We usually do not treat dampwood termites that are outside because they are good for the environment. The most obvious treatment is to remove the wood. Please let me know where you live and let me know exactly what you are seeing. I will do my best to help figure it out. Be well my friend.
I'm not sure what you mean by "personal support." I will answer any question you may have and I do that for everybody, including pest controllers. I have several pest controllers who are now seeking advice and I gladly give it. I have also spoken with folks on the phone as well. You can write to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com to ask specific questions if you like. I am always happy to help. Be well Joan.
I'm afraid that all the treatment options are listed in this video. The only one that is guaranteed to work is fumigation. You can do a spot treatment yourself, but it is highly unlikely that you are going to find all the galleries. Still, if you cannot afford fumigation, then my video on spot treating yourself is your best course of action. It's the only one on the web that will show you how to do it right. I will provide a link below for it. Please let me know if you have any questions after you watch the video. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to spot treat drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
That is correct. Of course, I have been doing this long enough to never say never, but you should not be seeing drywood termites in Washington or Oregon. That being said, I have seen cases where someone purchased a piece of wooden furniture from the red area and brought it home to a colder climate and the interior of the house had some drywood termites. This is very rare though and the termites usually don't survive for long. They count on the moisture that is found in more tropical climates and the colder climates are usually very dry in the winter, so they don't survive. So, I can say with a reasonable degree of certainty that you are probably not dealing with drywood termites if you live in Washington or Oregon. That being said, I am now getting reports of a new species of termite that has not been seen in the US before. It is an invasive species of subterranean termites that I think is coming from somewhere like the Philippines. I have had a couple of people send me photos of their crawlspaces and there were termite towers under there. That is not something that previously existed in the US. So far, I have only heard of this in California, but you know it's going to spread. I also encountered a species of termite in Arizona that I was not able to identify. I sent a photo to several entomologists and they were not able to identify it either. Even the entomologist in Arizona could not identify it. That is why I never say never. You never know when an invasive species is going to show up and throw you off your game. Nevertheless, I'm pretty certain that drywood termites will not survive where you are. I hope that helps.
You generally do not find termites on curtains, so this may be something else entirely. Most pest control companies will do a free inspection for you and, if you show them the specimen, they should be able to tell you what it is. Please take this seriously because it could even be a bedbug. After you have it identified, I can most likely tell you how to treat the problem. I hope that helps. Be well Cherrie.
Hello , I currently have a two story home with drywoood termites according to hulett pest company. We decided to go with the injection method into termite galleries since it’s more affordable. Do you think this will work? Is there anything else I can purchase to use from Home Depot that can help kill them as well ?
There is nothing you can purchase from Home Depot that will help the situation. As I point out in my video, the only sure-fire way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. It sounds like you opted for a spot treatment, which is far from a sure thing. If the pest controller is really good and very lucky, then he/she may get them all, but I would not take it to the bank. Also, if they are not treating the attic with Bora-Care, then there is a good chance that it won't work. Even after you get all the galleries eliminated, then you can become reinfested the next day. If you have drywood termites, then it is quite likely that your neighbors have them as well and they will most likely fly over to your house again at some point. The only way to prevent this is to treat the exterior of your home every three months. Pest control companies will not do it for any price. It is something that you must do yourself. That is because it requires spraying the eves and facia boards and pest controllers usually will not treat above their heads. I have a video on how to prevent drywood termites and I will place a link below for it. My recommendation is to pay the money and fumigate. Then do the preventative treatment every three months. I know that is probably not what you want to hear, but it's the honest truth. I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Be well my friend. How to prevent drywood termites video: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you very much for your advice. It’s been really stressful situation. So update from yesterday the inspector from hulett did the injections into the areas in the house that he saw holes . He also went to the attics and sprayed some type of gas into it. But he said from looking around he didn’t not see too much wood damage in the attic and he did not see any live termites up there. No major damage located. And he was not able to find any termites of damage inside the garage attic. But they said they will continue to come every 60 days and inject additional areas and let us know if it’s probably best to just fumigate. Thank you I will check the video you posted now.
@@sweettooth7625 I always hate being the bearer of bad news, but from your description, the pest controller did not do a proper treatment. Here's the thing about drywood termites. You cannot just treat where you see the holes. These guys can be in wall studs and the kick out holes can be on the sides of the studs that are behind the drywall, so you will never see the kick out holes. So, if the pest controller just treated where he saw holes, then there is almost a 100 percent chance that there are still galleries in your walls that have not been treated. Also, there is almost no way to properly inspect an attic. Think about it for a minute. Your ceiling joists have insulation between them. Often times insulation that was blown in. In any event, he would have had to literally remove all that insulation to properly inspect the ceiling joists for kick out holes and frass. I seriously doubt if he did that. If he found any termite activity at all in the attic, then I can assure you that he did not find all the galleries up there. Again, just based on your description of the treatment, it would be an incredible stroke of luck if the pest controller found and treated all the galleries. If you want to understand what I am talking about and the right way to do a spot treatment, I happen to have a video on it and I will place a link below. This video was made for do it yourselfers, but it is also the procedure that the pros should be doing. I know that this is not something you want to do yourself, but you will find the video to be very educational on the subject. I talk about the right ways to inspect for drywood termites and the right way to spot treat them. I also explain all the reasons why spot treating may not be successful. I would urge you to watch this video, so that you have a full understanding of what you are dealing with. Your home is being eaten by termites and, if you fail to stop it, then it's not going to end well. This will end up costing you a lot more money in the end. It's the old saying, "You can pay me now or pay me later." If you pay later, then it's going to cost a lot more money after you have structural damage. So, please watch this video. It is so important. Again, I am so sorry to have to deliver undesirable news. How to treat drywood termites yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
I receive questions from all over the world, but I think you are the first from India. I had no idea that anyone from India would be watching my videos. It is very humbling. I am not familiar with all the species of roaches in India, but I believe that the most common ones are American, German, Oriental, and Brown-Banded. Of these, the one that is most likely to cause a serious infestation are the German roaches, although you can sometimes get a problem with the Brown-Banded and Oriental ones as well. American roaches can come inside, but they typically like to stay outdoors and will only come in when they do not like the climate conditions outside. They don't survive well inside, so they are not usually a major problem. So, my first recommendation is to figure out the species. A good place to start is to watch my video on German cockroaches. That video will allow you to identify if these guys are German or not. If they are, then the video will show you how to treat them. If they are German, then do everything in the video. If they are not German, then you may be able to get away with just doing phase one in the video. I will place a link below for the video. That being said, I do not know what pesticides are available in India or what suppliers will ship there. So, you may need to do a bit of research to find the pesticides that I recommend. Often times Amazon will ship anywhere, but not always. You can also try ePestSupply. I know that they do ship internationally, but I do not know if they ship to all countries. They are somewhat more expensive than Amazon, so I would try them last. I will place a link below for them. I hope that helps. Thank you so much for watching. Be well my friend. How to Exterminate German Cockroaches video: ruclips.net/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/видео.html ePestSupply: www.epestcontrol.com/?msclkid=b985fffb25651c620ea89db3339cedac&**LP%20Branded%20-%20A&*ePestSupply?msclkid=b985fffb25651c620ea89db3339cedac&A%2ALP+Branded+-+A&AePestSupply
I have a question. I have valleys in my roof with no rain gutters. The flow of water is heavier in these valleys onto the facia board. It seems I have a lot more termites on the facia in areas where I have roof runoff in these valleys. Does this make sense?I would imagine I need to spray every three months in these valleys in the facia area and also perhaps put rain gutters in?
The valleys should have been installed so that the water runs off past the top of the fascia board, so it shouldn't matter unless you have a roof leak. If the roof is in good condition, then the termites cannot enter through the shingles. This is something that you would need a roofer to check out. Most of them will come out for free to have a look. I'm sorry that I cannot be of more help with that. Be well my friend.
I am so sorry that you are dealing with this. If you are sure that these are drywood termites, then it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. After the fumigation is done, then you can repair the fascia boards. Also, prior to the fumigation, it would be a good idea to have the roof inspected to make sure that it is in good shape. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
It's a good idea to get someone that knows what they are looking at. You need to inspect the roof rafters, ceiling joists, floor joists (unless it's a slab home), flooring underlayment, roof sheathing, and so forth. You also need to do your best to determine if there is damage to bearing-walls. If you want an idea about how to do this, you can watch my video on how to treat a drywood termite infestation yourself. I go over inspection methods in that video. I will place a link below. If you can actually see the exposed wood, like in the attic, then you just look for kick out holes and frass and you try to push a screwdriver through the wood everywhere you can. Walls are a lot more problematic, which you will see in the video. I hope that helps. How to Treat a Drywood Termite Infestation video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@hideoussails1783 How you do the inspection is going to depend upon the type of condo you are talking about. If it has multiple stories with each floor having a unit, then it can be very problematic. However, if it's more like a townhome where you have your own roof and the unit runs from the ground to the roof, then it's basically done the same way as a single family home. In either case though, the problem is that there could be damage to adjoining units. It is one of the many reasons why I recommend that folks never buy any type of condo or townhome. It makes pest control much more problematic and don't get me started on condo associations. They may look like a good deal because they are cheaper than a single unit home, but they can end up costing you a lot more in the end. You literally have no say when the roof will get replaced, when painting the exterior is going to get done, when water mains need replacing, when the building is going to be fumigated, and on and on and on. All of which you are required to pay for. If you don't pay, the association can literally foreclose on your home. Your wallet can get eaten alive with these things. Then, if some of this stuff is not done, the building can become structurally unsound or infested with all sorts of pests. Condos are always a potential nightmare and that is why I would avoid them if at all possible. While it is true that your association dues generally include money to replace the roof and other maintenance items when they reach their useful life, the dues generally do not cover unforeseen stuff, like termite fumigation, water damage that is not covered by insurance, and that sort of thing. So, for me, I have never considered purchasing a condo. I hope that helps.
@@GuysPestSolutions Yes, multi story condo. Thank you for potentially saving everyone from a nightmare situation :) Probably better to rent a condo and avoid hassles and be able to sleep at night. I also hear HOAs can change their rules on you. Forget that mess, just asking for problems with HOAs. Thank you again. I was also thinking another problem with condos is they are infested with vacation rentals and the nightmare of having to deal with rotating strangers next door bringing their vermin in their luggage
I had about 30-50 Formosa swarmers in my attic yesterday. I live in coastal south. They had no wings on them. My house is only 7 years old and had professional pest control for atleast 4 of those 7 years. The Orkin guy said they are living in my blown insulation. Sounds ridiculous to me..they quoted me almost $4k to blow treated insulation into the attic.
That's too funny. You were wise not to fall for that. Some insulation is made out of cellulose and termites do eat cellulose, but the insulation is almost always treated with a permanent pesticide that will kill termites. Trust me when I tell you that your Formosan termites are most likely not eating your insulation. If you see them in the installation it is because they are building or have built a carton where the installation is located. You should know that Formosan termites are a serious problem because they are very fast eaters, and can do a lot of damage very quickly, so you need to get on this right away. This is something you can treat yourself and you can probably do a better job then the pros can. You can get everything you need for a couple of hundred dollars. I have a video on how to do it. Even if you want to contract this out, you should still watch the video, because it will teach you a lot about Formosan termites. I will give you a link below. Good grief. How is it possible that Okin can hire somebody that incompetent? You know, now that I think of it, you would be wise to make sure that this guy identified the species correctly. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. It's not as hard as you may think. I will give you a link to that video as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
@@Writerx83 Drywood termites are much different than Formosan termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. It is very common to see them in the attic. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. You can send me a photo of one of the swarmers, but it is very difficult to tell the difference between Formosan and drywood termite swarmers, just by looking at a photo. The easiest way to tell is to look for mud tubes and frass. If you watched my video on how to identify termite species, then you know what mud tubes and frass looks like. You are most likely going to find one or the other. Formosan termites do not produce frass, and drywood termites do not create mud tubes. So, if you find mud tubes, then you have Formosan termites. If you find frass, then you have drywood termites. It's pretty much that simple. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
I got a quote for like 900 to do a termite treatment. He told me the tent isn’t Necessary. Do you think I should do the tent to guarantee they are all dead, then do the treatment?
The pest controller wants to spot treat the problem, which never works. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@dirtrider9268 This sounds like drywood termites, but it could be subterranean termites. That is not clear. $900 would be consistent with either trenching for subterranean termites or spot treating drywood termites. That would be a good price for trenching, but a waste of money for drywood termites. Be well my friend.
Yeah, I admit that I'm pretty boring. It's funny. Some people write to me to tell me that I talk too slow and I'm boring. Fair enough, but I don't understand why they think I don't already know that. My wife mentions it to me all the time. Lol. It's not like they are discovering some unknow revelation. I'm a pest controller. Not an entertainer. I figure if folks want entertainment, they need to watch TikTok. If they want to know how to eliminate a bug infestation, then watch me. That being said, there are a select few who actually like the way I talk and do binge watch my videos. For that I am most appreciative, but even I don't even watch them after I post them. Perhaps that's because I already know how to do this stuff. Anyway, thanks for watching. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions and I know boring... I grew up in a small town east of Portland, Oregon, called Boring, Oregon. You're not boring, per say... you're educational. Anyway, my wife is pressuring me to hire a termite company to get rid of termites in this house. First estimate, $3k and they'll heat-treat the entire house to 140 degrees for some time, and that is supposed to kill 'em. $200/year and they'll come back anytime if I suspect they have regrouped. [Terminex] 2nd estimate from Orkin, was $2600 and they'll spot treat where they see evidences of termites. This is guaranteed for 5 years. A local company is coming tomorrow to give me a 3rd estimate. I like your video of just using that Bayer product from HomeDepot/Lowes, and sprinkling it around the house, six inches away from the structure, for about $50+. I got to talk her into letting me use this product instead of forking out the top dollar for the professionals. Greg [garden grove, CA]
Good questions for public. Nowadays, has any company come uyp with a technology/GPS based item that will actually show you were termintes are in the ground per say. A GPS locator if you will. Has this been invented yet by a person/company. Something to think about as it relates to pess control industry.
@@arntrezlacy399 As far as I know, that technology does not exist. I don't know if it would be all that helpful in most situation because colonies can be as deep as 25 feet underground. Sometimes the colony, or part of it, are actually under the house. In that situation, this could be very helpful because the house would get treated much differently. Most of the time, if there are mud tubes under the house that are indirect contact with the ground, we just assume that there is a colony under the house. This is not always the case though, so it would be helpful to have this technology available in that instance. Fortunately, we don't see this that often. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@hartleyhubbard3827 Before you do anything, you need to identify the species. The treatments they are talking about are consistent with drywood termites, so the granules would not work for you. Look at the estimates and see if these are drywood termites. If so, I recommend that you do not go with any of these guys because they are telling you the wrong treatment. Also, the warranties you are talking about are a rip-off. I have a video on that. Don't waste your money. For now, let's assume that these are drywood termites. I will change my advice up a bit if they are subterranean termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on termite warranties and bonds: ruclips.net/video/lWUdyyxotjg/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
I suppose it's always buyer beware with buying a home. It's not just termite inspections that can fail. Even the best of home inspectors can miss things that can cost a lot to get fixed. For example, a home inspector can only inspect what they can see. A home may have been built with polybutylene plumbing that was supposedly replaced, but it may not have been replaced inside the walls where the inspector cannot see. A good example is my house. My house was built with copper pipe from China and, at some point, it failed and the previous owner replaced it himself. He used PEX, which is very good, but he did not replace the pipes in all the walls. For example, where the plumbing goes into the showers. It was just too hard to get to, so he left the defective copper in place. There is no way that I could see that. Of course, that pipe did fail and I ended up having to remove drywall to access the pipe. The good news is that I know how to do that sort of stuff. It would have cost a lot if I had to pay a plumber and a drywaller to do the work. So, when it comes to buying a home, all you can do is the best you can do. Inspectors do catch a lot of stuff and, most of the time a good pest controller will find a termite infestation. It's never a sure thing, but it's better than not inspecting. All that being said, buying a home is a smart investment.
@@GuysPestSolutions Is copper pipe from China like the Chinese drywall problem years ago? what a nightmare! I think I will pass on a house if it has termites or had termites, because if they were a problem again I would probably kick myself because I would be taking a known risk lol
@@hideoussails1783 I have become suspicious of everything made in China. I still buy lots of stuff made in China, but I no longer buy anything that will cause a problem if it fails. When I purchased my house I never gave a thought to the supply tubes for the toilets. Well, about two years after I purchased the house, one of the supply tubes burst when I was not at home and it ruined all my wood floors in the entire house. About $11,000 in damage. The insurance covered it, but when I went to install new flooring, I paid more to get a product that was made in the good old USA. It's kind of my own personal rule now. If it's something that can cause damage or injury if it fails, then I shy away from Chinese products. I still buy all sorts of other stuff from there, like electronics, clothes, and so on. Don't let termites scare you off from a house. Just make sure that the home is certified as termite free before closing and all damage was repaired. Otherwise, get estimates for fixing everything and let the seller know that you will not close unless the price is reduced to the amount required for the repairs. If those things do not happen, then walk away. The contracts almost always have an escape clause if you are not happy with the inspection results for any reason. If that is not in the contract, tell your Realtor to put it in. I hope that helps.
@@GuysPestSolutions the problem also is China is buying USA so what do you do ? Crazy times to buy a house with people buying with no inspections, as is, etc. Crazy people. Thank you for your advice :)
@@hideoussails1783 You are absolutely correct. China is not trying to defeat us militarily, they're trying to simply by the United States. The truly insane part is that they are doing it with our money. You are also correct that there are a lot of investors who are buying homes without inspections. In fact, they are buying these homes sight unseen. I must get anywhere from one to three phone calls every day from somebody trying to buy my house. They are not lowballing me either. These are investors who are willing to pay full price to get my house. That is because they know that property prices are going to do nothing but go up. Real estate is one of the best investments you can make. Still, there are some ways to get around this. For example, you can buy a HUD home and they will not sell to investors, unless a private buyer is not available to make the purchase. They have a requirement that you must live in the home, I think for at least one year, in order to make the purchase. That effectively takes investors out of that particular market.
Boric acid does kill termites, but I know of no effective way to deliver it. For boric acid to work, you must apply it where the termites are traveling. That means, if you have drywood termites, you need to get it inside the wood. How do you do that? You are better off treating galleries with a fipronil foam, but how do you find all the galleries? So, the best thing you can do for drywood termites is to fumigate. For subterranean termites, you cannot trench with boric acid because you cannot get it wet, or it stops working. You could scrape off a section of a mud tube and puff some into the tube, but I don't know if you can deliver a sufficient amount to kill the entire colony. You have the same problem with subs as you do with drywood in terms of treating infested wood. How to you get the boric acid into the wood? Boric acid works great for roaches and ants, but not so much for termites. Be well my friend.
@@HermanCandas I take it that you have drywood termites? If that is the case, then I must tell you up front that your best option is to fumigate. Killing off a gallery is super easy but finding them is the problem. It is almost impossible to find all the galleries because they can be inside the walls and the kick out holes can be behind the drywall on the sides of the suds that you cannot see. They may also be in areas of the attic that you cannot access. However, if you simply cannot afford to fumigate, then I have a video on how to spot treat yourself and you can do a better job than the pros. If you decide to fumigate, then also watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. I will give you links to both videos. These videos cover everything you need to know about spot treating drywood termites and hiring a pest control company. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you Sir for your reply. However I live in Australia. i dont know what type of termites we have, i hired someone to the job and paid him half but his done the runner on me and hasnt turned up for 5 months. I filed a complaint to one of Australias biggest firms that handles dodgy companys. The problem is in the ceiling where the termites are and his put 10 big holes inside the house, he has damaged our house. And each time he would go up the ceiling he would make noises like he was breaking things and i got upset i said what are you doing up there with all that noise? he said nothing. I wish i can go up and have a look but i cant. So i rang a different pest control guy and he inspected everything and he told us the termites are still in the house and the dodgy pest company has ripped us off. So now he will pay us back and fix all the holes and top of that will sue for poor workmanship!!!!!!!!!!
@@HermanCandas I am so sorry to hear that. I have had a number of people from Australia that have contacted me about termites. The problem is that you have different species than we do here in the states. Some of the species that you will encounter there can be very destructive and some of the time one species looks very much like another. So, I am not qualified to identify a specific species from Australia. The termites you have there often behave differently than the ones we have here. Therefore, they sometimes need to be treated differently than the methods I am used to. I can tell you though that some of the termites you may encounter there can destroy your home fairly quickly, so you do need to get on top of this as soon as you can. Hopefully, the pest controller that inspected your home told you what the species is and the best way to treat it. I feel bad that you got ripped off, and I find it so disheartening that you have the same sort of dishonest people there that we have in America as well.
I really wish I could be of more assistance to you, but I do have my limitations and I don't want to mislead you. Be well my friend.
I too have heard about people using ozone generators to kill drywood termites. I think the jury is still out on it though. These devices were not really designed to be killing pests, but rather to eliminate odors and you should be aware that they are somewhat hazardous to use. If you are going to use one, then nobody can be in the house while the device is being used and you have to make sure that you air out the house really well for at least a day before you allow anybody to go back inside. Now, I have heard of people using these things for drywood termites in very confined spaces, but I have not seen any tests for an entire home. So, my guess is that there may be some potential for this to work, but I would think that you would need to be running several of these units at the same time in different areas of the house and it is unclear just how long you would need them to run them to treat an entire home. The truth is that these units were not designed for this purpose. Of course, that doesn't mean they won't work. I think absolutely everybody that lives in drywood termite territory would be over the moon to learn that there was an effective way to totally eradicate a drywood termite infestation without the need to call a pest controller, but I think there needs to be a lot more research done before people run out and get these things to do it themselves. To test this treatment method would require that a family vacate the home for at least several days because these things will literally kill you. It's one thing to test these units in a controlled test chamber, but it's an entirely different matter if you're trying them out in the field for an entire home. Obviously, one of the problems is going to be, how do you know if the treatment was effective? There are probably lots of drywood termite galleries behind the drywall, so how would you know if you killed all those galleries? I think the only way you would really know, is if you had a test house where you could actually remove all the drywall in the entire house and inspect to see the results. Then you have to figure out what size generators are required, how many are required, and what the appropriate treatment time is to treat a house. That means, the people doing this research are probably going to have to tear apart several houses before they get it right. So, it seems to me that using an ozone generator to treat your house for drywood termites may be promising, but it is not the sort of thing that I would just go ahead and try on my own, until the proper research has been done to determine exactly how you should go about doing it and the effectiveness of this treatment. Hopefully, this will become an option in the near future, but I don't think we are quite there yet. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for the detailed reply Guy. I was thinking of using it more as a preventative treatment. Say just an hour our two every month in the attic, shed, or porch. I have also read that too much ozone can deteriorate, rubber, plastic, paint, etc and leave a permanent unpleasant off gassing odor, so over-treament could have detrimental unintended consequences.
@@DaveG-qd6ug I think you should so as much research as you can before you do it. You know what they say? "What you don't know may kill you." Please let me know how you make out. This is new ground for me as well and I find it very interesting. I love when folks try new things and think outside the box. Just be careful. This does seem to have the potential for harm.
Ow. That's a lot of money. Please tell me where you live and tell me about the house. How many square feet is it? Is it more than one story tall? Are you sure that these are drywood termites? What company gave you the estimate? If you have a copy of the estimate, please email a copy to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. It would be helpful for me to have a look at it to see what they are saying. Let's see if we can save you some money. Be well my friend.
@@grupomotorhd1593 For that kind of money they must be talking about tenting and fumigating the house. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. If you have drywood termites, then the companies that gave you the quotes are telling the truth that the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, as you have already found out, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The pest control companies often fail to mention this. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Some companies will quote you a price for spot treating, but they have no hope of finding all the galleries either, so don't fall for that lowball price for spot treating. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. Always start the preventive treatment prior to fumigation. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. You just need to treat the exterior of the house every 60 days): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
I am so sorry to have to tell you that the Fogger did nothing to get rid of the termites. Those were reproductives that were most likely in the wood in the attic. They swarm every year and only live for a short time, so a lot of them would have died even if you didn't fog. There is a good chance that these are drywood termites, but they could be subterranean as well. Either way, the termites are still there, and they are busy eating your roof structure. Let me explain what you need to know about drywood termites. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
I am very fortunate to personally know Guy and just wanted to add YES he really is as knowledgeable and kind as he appears in these videos.
Thanks for sharing your plethora of experience with us mortals, Guy!
Oh my. Thank you so much for those kind words Tim. Very much appreciated. You made my day.
I’m from South Africa and really enjoy listening to him !
I had termites and arrived at this video for a solution. Unfortunately, the termites ate my whole house before I got to the "what to do" part of this video. They're now eating my neighbor's house but I hope I can help them with the knowledge I'm about to acquire.
Joke aside, great content. Thanks!
How fantastic to make availsble the incredible knowledge you possess. So appreciated. I learned so much just listening. Especially about microwave treatments.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Greatly appreciated. Please let me know if I can ever be of any assistance to you. I am always here to help. Be well my friend.
There could not be any questions after that thorough explanation. Thank you so much!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I watched the whole videos, and i don't have drywall termites. Your generosity in sharing your knowledge is admirable. Thank you!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Very polite and well spoken. I enjoy this program so much. I have 2 sides of my house trenched and treated at the moment going onto number 3 side when the weather looks better. Enjoying this DIY a lot. Thanks so much Guy! You’re a nice Guy!!!
Cheers
Peter
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Please let me know if you have any questions. I am always here to help. Be well Peter.
@@GuysPestSolutions Hello Guy, yes I have a question please. I have been able to trench around 3x sides of my house and treat with Fipronil. The trenching went just below the footings and I applied the recommended volume by watering can.
I felt the job has gone really well so far with plenty of time before any rain for chemical bonding with the soil.
On the last side of the house there is a narrow garden bed practically right along the entire side of the front of the house.
The garden bed is around 60cm wide x 14 metres in length. The garden bed meets the front lawn with a length of continuous rocks abutted for a barrier to the garden soil, right across the the front of the garden bed in front of the house.
To attempt to dig the trench in the garden bed across the front of the house footings, would be extremely difficult due to well developed hedge plants that fill the garden bed across the front of the house.
Would there be a significant disadvantage if the treatment trench for subterranean termite treatment using Fipronil, was dug just in front of the rocks abutted right along the length of the garden bed and house?
@@Leo6009 If you are trenching, then you are treating for subterranean termites. Please correct me if I am wrong, but I'm guessing that you are not from the United States. I say that because, in the US, we typically do not trench down to the footings. However, that is often the way it is done in some other countries. In the US, the species of termites that are typically found only travel a couple of inches below the surface of the ground and, therefore, you do not want the termiticide too far below the surface. That is why we typically only trench six inches deep. If you treat too far below the surface, then the termites may travel above the treated area. Normally, when termites hit the foundation, they go up and not down. Occasionally they do go down and that is why we do the six inches, but they almost always go up where the wood is. So, if you treat down to the footings, then all the backfill soil must also be treated because subterranean termites just do not travel that deep in the ground. That being said, I'm guessing that some other countries treat differently because they may have a species of termites that do not behave the same way. So, it is important to know where you are from. If you live in the US, then we need to talk about the exact way you did the treatment to be sure that it will actually work. In any event, I really need to see the situation with the garden to answer your question. Would it be possible for you to send me a photo? You can email it to guysyoutube@mail.com. Please note that it's just "mail" and not "gmail." I can most likely provide the advise you need if I can see a photos of what it looks like.
I'm sorry that I cannot be of immediate help, but I have learned the hard way that "A picture is worth a thousand words." When someone describes something to me I get a certain picture in my head and it often turns out to be nothing like what actually exists. So, I don't want to give you bad advice. I hope you understand.
I do look forward to seeing that photo and I will do my very best to assist you with this.
Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions I took some photos for you earlier but they can’t be attached or sent here, so as you have offered I have hoped you would offer to view the photos. Thanks.
The footings on this house are reasonably shallow and the 6 inch depth and width was followed per the instructions followed. It just happened in places the 6 inches depth was below the footings.
We built the house 60 years ago and another 15 houses alongside of it.
Cheers
Peter
@@Leo6009 I see now. I'm thinking that treating in front of the stone should be fine in your case and that is the way I would do it. That being said, keep an eye out for mud tubes around the house, especially on that wall. It wouldn't hurt to inspect for mud tubes a couple of times a year. I'm guessing that you'll be fine though.
Thanks for sending the photos. Best of luck with the treatment. By the way, I visited Sydney back in the late 1960's. I was on R&R from Vietnam. I'm sure things have changed a lot over the years, but I loved the people and I hope they have not changed. I had a wonderful time there and I have some very fond memories from my visit.
Be well Peter.
When I first met my wife her very old SWFL wood apt building had drywood termites in every wood window and door trim and every wood floorboard. We had to throw out most of her furniture after we moved as it was infested and ruined. Years later I found a single tiny gallery in one of my old furniture pieces. I was able to heat treat it by placing the disassembled pieces under a tent made of quilts and blowing a space heater under an uplifted corner. I used a meat thermometer on the far side to make sure it got hot enough and I held it there for double the recommended duration. Saved a nice vintage wood framed couch.
That was a very creative way to save the couch. If it's wood, these things can get into it. Thanks for sharing your experience. Be well my friend.
This man is a LEGEND....
Thank you so much. That is so kind of you to say. Very much appreciated.
Don't sell yourself short as your videos are insightful and truly interesting. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Hi Robert. Nice to hear from you again. Thank you so much for those kind words. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions You are appreciated... Thank You once again for your Channel and sharing your expertise. All of the best to you and your family.
@@truesimplicity Same to you and thanks again for those kind words.
Hi Guy, thank you so much for all this info! We unfortunately have drywood termite and will need of fumigation. We are wondering what cleaning you recommend after the fumigation? We have a newborn infant at home and want to veer on the side of safety. The pest control companies we've heard from so far have said no cleaning (such as washing clothes, dishes, wiping things down) is necessary. However, we've read the opposite on some websites online. Would love to hear your expert advice! Thank you!
God bless you with health and long life Mr. Guy.. What you're doing is wonderful: sharing all your knowledge and long experience with us. Your way to talk is perfect understanding even for a no native English speakers like me. ✨️🌟💯💯💯💯💯
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy - thank you for all your helpful videos! We have drywood termite that needs fumigation but we've also noticed moths (looks like pantry moth) in our house. Would you happen to know whether Vikane will also kill moths? And regarding the fumigation, do I need to worry about the plumbing and the Vikane getting into the water supply? Thank you!
Very informative video and I do have a drywood termite colony infestation that I need to get eradicated from inside my home wall,thankyou for making this video and sharing your expertise
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. If you can afford it, I recommend going with fumigation. Keep in mind that you will get reinfested if you do not do a preventive treatment. Please watch my video on how to treat the exterior of your house. If you do everything in the video, except treating the yard, that will prevent drywood termites. You need to do the treatment every 60 days. If you want to get the best price on fumigation, then please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Appreciate all your helpful termite videos and golden advice! I completed fumigation 3 weeks ago and have some questions:
- how to tell active drywood termite activity vs old activity from 3 years ago? In other words, new frass vs old frass?
- should I use compressed air or big blower simply shooting air in attic, window sill, kickout holes, etc... to remove termite frass so I have a clean base line? If a termite inspector comes here 3 years from now, they may say I have termite all over my home but those are old frass and may confuse their judgment.
- do drywood termite attack from east & west side of the house first (attraction of light)? If that's the case, I will pay more attention to the east & west. I try to use risk-based approach to save time & money !
Those are some great questions. Telling the difference between old and new termite frass can be a little tricky. So, instead of trying to figure out if the frass is old or new, the best thing to do is to remove any frass that you can see. If new frass appears, then you have an active infestation. The termites should be producing frass every day, so it will reappear pretty quickly after you remove it. I don't think using compressed air to remove the frass would be the best way to go about it. I think I would just sweep it up and clean the area with a household detergent.
It is possible for drywood termites to be attracted to a particular side of the house because light considerations, damp areas that may be on one particular side of the house, wind direction and speed, and the vulnerability on a specific side of the house. Vulnerability would be things like openings around soffits, fascia boards, windows, doors, pipe penetrations, and that sort of thing. So, light is not the only variable regarding what side of the house they will attack from. Therefore, you cannot limit your treatment to any specific areas of the house.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you had these guys in many locations in your home.
You should also know that the gas they used to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. Since it has been three weeks since you fumigated, you may already be reinfested. In some areas of the country this is not the time of year for swarming, but in other parts of the country swarming can happen anytime during the year. So, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I always recommend starting the preventive treatment before the tent goes up, but better late than never. You may still be able to dodge a bullet.
Do not trust the warranties that they give you. Most of them will contain language that gives the pest control company the discretion to treat future infestations in a manner of their choosing. That is to say, they are not going to fumigate again next year if you have more termites. They are most likely going to spot treat. This is something you can do yourself or about $30, so don't waste your money on extended warranties, unless they specifically state that they will fumigate again at no charge. Some people tell me that they have that kind of warranty, but I have never seen that language in a drywood termite contract. You need to read these contracts very carefully. The language can be very deceiving. It often sounds like you are getting coverage that you are not actually getting.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. You just need to treat the house): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Everything you say here & your other videos are all solid & proven from my recent fumigation experience.
You are 100% correct about the sneaky 'warranty' where termite company also put owners responsible for 'proper' maintenance, caulking, painting, screening or they will VOID the warranty. People need to read these contracts word by word b/c sales rep will not explain it !
Your decades of experience provides us peace of mind during the whole fumigation process & puts us in a much better place vs most home owners.
Always looking forward to learning from you. Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays. Please be well & stay well Sir ! 👍
@@Brian_L_5168 You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Have a very merry Christmas. Be well my friend.
Very informative. Appreciate the advice, specially at the end about sells people
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Thank you for the vid. Good to see you my friend.Be well.
Thank you so much for those kind words and for watching. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Greetings Mr Guy!Thank you sir for your videos! I am now aware that I have black termites with the wings on the floor one room. they seem to be subterranean. Under one room in my house that was added on at some point by previous owners. It's a slab foundation so I am aware that the new slab that they added butts up against the old slab and apparently there is termite damage in the wall from the past. So I am planning on using the laundry bottle techniques that you have explained around this added on room. Can I do the 6-inch trench around the whole house as well at the same time? I was planning on opening some of the wall where I see the previous damage. And I am looking for fresh activity. I was planning on making the cardboard with Taurus sc as you have explained. And then putting that inside the wall if they are active.. I was considering getting a PVC pipe that might be about 6 ft long or so and driving it underneath the slab and a few spots such as underneath that area of the foundation where the wall has damage in order to plant some of the treated cardboard underground. Does all of this sound okay to you? And thank you for your help and time!
I am so sorry that you were dealing with subterranean termites. If the swarmers have black bodies with no other coloring on them, then these are most likely Eastern subterranean termites or Western subterranean termites, if you live in the western part of the US. Please let me know if you live in the West, and I will give you some additional information about Western subterranean termites. In both cases though, your first line of defense should be to trench around the entire house. I have a video on how to do that, and I will give you a link to it. If you do this properly, then there's no other treatment needed for Eastern subterranean termites. I explain how subterranean termites work in the video, so you will understand why this is the case. You can also do a spot treatment for them, but this really isn't necessary if you do the trenching. Spot treating involves drilling the walls and shooting in a foam. For now though, just watch the video and go to work with the trenching.
Using a bait station to treat subterranean termites can be effective, but it's not a sure thing the way trenching is. The biggest problem with it is that it relies on the termites actually eating the bait. Unfortunately, the termites do not always get the memo that there is a free restaurant waiting for them. Also, it is best to get the bait in the ground where the termites are. This means you need to locate their exact point of entry. It is possible to treat them above ground, but this may reduce the chances of them eating the bait. So, I think the quickest and surest way to eliminate the infestation is to just trench around the house. This type of treatment has more than a 99% chance of success. I typically only go with a baiting solution if I run into a situation where trenching is not possible or where it would be very difficult.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Your videos are GREAT, GREAT, GREAT. I appreciate you!
Thank you do much for those kind words. You made my day. Please pass me along to others who may need pest control advice. It's always free and I will answer any question about any pest. All anyone needs to do is ask. Be well Joan.
Guy..Thank you for the video, I found it very useful.
I am in process of getting quotes for infestation of Drywood Termites in home located in Florida. I found the dropping and winged termites in our kitchen and inspector noted it was a good change they came in new kitchen cabinets that were installed 3 years ago.
to date: 1 quote noted to spay only and second quote noted to tent and spray. Based off research, inspections and your video I will get additional quotes and details on each pesticide that would be used.
It sounds like tenting while expensive is best method. Should the service I get for these drywood termites include an additional spraying inside and outside of the house( additional charge) ?
Thank you
First, let me say that I think you were very smart to do your homework before you dove into treating your drywood termite infestation.
As you saw from my video, there are a number of ways to come at drywood termites, but the only surefire way to get rid of them is to tent and fumigate the building. If you fumigate, then there's absolutely no need to do any spraying inside the building. You should spray outside the building, but the pest controllers are not going to do it properly, so don’t buy that service. I will explain more on that later. Any pest controller that suggests spraying in addition to fumigating is simply trying to rip you off for a service that you do not need. The fumigation is going to kill absolutely everything in the building.
Here's the thing that you need to know though, fumigation does absolutely nothing to prevent another infestation of drywood termites. If you have drywood termites, then I would be willing to bet the ranch that most of your neighbors have them as well. That means that the termites from your neighbors’ homes are going to swarm and find their way back to your home. So, you can literally get reinvested within minutes after the tent comes down. All is not lost though. There are measures that you can take to prevent this.
The first thing that I would do is treat the entire attic with Bora-Care. This product permanently treats the wood so that termites can never survive from eating it. I have a video that I did for people that want to treat their drywood termites themselves and in the latter part of that video I show how to treat your attic with Bora-Care. Of course, this does nothing to protect your windows, doors, and other areas where drywood termites are likely to enter. So, I also have a video on how to prevent drywood termites by doing an exterior treatment of the entire house every three months. If you do this exterior treatment every three months, then you will never have another drywood termite infestation. I am not 100% sure of this, but I believe I have the only video on the internet that shows you how to do this. You should also note that pest controllers will not do this treatment because it requires that you spray the fascia boards and soffits with pesticide and the policy of most pest control companies is to never spray above their heads. That means this is something that you must do yourself and that is why you should not buy that service. Don't worry though, this treatment is perfectly safe for you to do.
If you are worried about using pesticides, I also happen to have a video that explains just how toxic pesticides really are and why it would be perfectly safe for you to do this treatment. I will give you links to all of these videos. I will also provide links for the pesticides that you will need.
Please note that you do not need to do the Bora-Care treatment on the attic, if you do the exterior treatment every three months, but it wouldn't hurt to have that extra layer of protection.
Finally, you want to begin the exterior treatment of your house several days before the fumigation is done. That way the house will be protected the moment the tent comes down.
I know I gave you a lot of videos to watch and I sincerely apologize for that, but educating yourself on the problem is very important. Believe me when I tell you that you came to the right place. I will provide you with all the information that you need to get the problem solved at the best price possible. Also, I am willing to stay with you every step of the way until you have everything completed and I will answer any questions that you may have at any point during the process. The best part is that my service is totally 100% free. My reward is to see you solve your problem.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How to prevent drywood termites video: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
How to treat a drywood termite infestation yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
How dangerous are pesticides video: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
Bora-Care: www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care
Taurus SC: www.solutionsstores.com/taurus-sc-termiticide
Talstar P (You can also use Bifen IT instead. It’s a bit cheaper): www.solutionsstores.com/talstar-pro
Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide
BEST INFO ON RUclips!!!!!!!
That is so kind of you to say. You made my day. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for your wise advice.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Boracare is good if you replace the siding or the walls in a remodel. Its basically radiator fluid or ethylene glycol as a penetration enhancer mixed with boric salts which are toxic to termites. I make my own because boracare is super expensive.
Thank you so much for this info . Really helpful god bless you . Keep it up plz
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Amazing info. Quick question Gary... Do termites often follow the cycle of rats or??? Thank you for any info much appreciated!
They are not associated with rats or any other species. However, like other pests, termites do have a life cycle. Different termite species operate somewhat differently, but like rats, their behavior is reasonably predictable. For example, we know that drywood termites cannot swarm for 4 to 7 years after they establish a new gallery, and this is always the case. You cannot exactly set your watch by it, but it is predictable that a new gallery is going to produce swarmers in this time frame. So, the key to dealing with any pest is to first understand how they function. I hope that helps. Be well Becky.
Hello: Thank you for your service - it is highly informative and quite thorough. I live near Stanford and notice some Frass in the interior and one tiny hole above
1) Would this be Drywood termites only
2) Once we cleaned the Frass it has not reappeared about 10 days thus far - Does that mean the swarm has left
When you say that you live near Stanford, are you talking about California? If so, then you are just in the northern most band of the US where drywood termites are known to be a problem. The only species of termites, that I know of, that produces frass are drywood termites. However, there are other insects that produce frass, like carpenter ants. Just based on your description of the problem, and your location, I would agree that these are probably drywood termites. It is highly unlikely that these guys will go away on their own. Just because you are not seeing any frass coming out of the same kick out hole doesn't mean they have not created another kick out hole somewhere else. It would be helpful to know where in the house you found the frass. Was it in a cabinet, around a window, in the drywall, etc. If I know that, then I may be able to tell you what is going on. My guess is that you are looking at an active gallery that has moved passed that area where the frass was. For example, if the kick out hole is in the drywall, then they may now be creating kick out holes in the studs where you cannot see them. If it were me, I would look for frass all over the house. Move the furniture and go up in the attic. A lot of infestations start in the attic. Please get back to me and let me know.
Be well my friend.
This is a great video! The only thing is I've heard mixed opinions on whether boracare lasts 20 years or for the life of the wood
All borates last forever. They have a lifespan of nuclear waste. However, if the Bora-Care is applied outside, then even if you seal it like you are supposed to, the sealer will deteriorate over time. If you don't keep up on it, then the effectiveness of the Bora-Care may be degraded. There should be no degrading of the effectiveness if you use it indoors, like in that attic. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thank you for the reply!@@GuysPestSolutions
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, very helpful content! For dry wood termites, I heard you say only viable solution if hiring an expert is fumigation treatment due to spot treatment being ineffective / won't know where all the drywood termites have traveled to. Besides fumigation, are you familiar with heat tenting that raises the temperature to eliminate the drywall termites? Is heat tenting effective? Are there any downsides to heat tenting? FYI, I have drywood termites in my attic and crawlspace and already live in my home. I would like to understand chemical free options too like heat tenting treatment. Thanks so much for your advice.
It is a fact that heat will kill drywood termites. The problem is that you need to heat the termites to a temperature of at least 120° for at least a couple of hours. This is not so easy to do because the termites are typically located in the center of the wood, and wood is a natural insulator. That means it is difficult to heat. This problem is compounded by the fact that there's often insulation surrounding the wood, not to mention drywall. Further, there will often be drywood termites located in the fascia boards, roof rafters, sheathing under the exterior siding, and other difficult places to heat. Some companies will put a tent over the house to contain the heat, but not all companies do it this way. Some companies simply attempt to heat the house from the inside. Obviously, failing to tent the house is going to fail because you are not going to adequately heat the areas I just mentioned. Even if you tent the house, it is not enough to raise the temperature to 120°. You need to get the temperature to 120° inside every single piece of wood in the entire house. So, the question becomes, “How do you know if you accomplished this?” There is no practical way to determine if the center of every piece of wood in the house reaches the desired temperature. Therefore, this process is hit and miss at best. It can be successful sometimes, but it is not a sure thing. Also, these high temperatures can cause damage to electronic equipment and that sort of thing, so those things need to be removed from the house before the treatment is performed. Keep in mind that, if you want to reach the desired temperature in the center of all the wood, the actual temperature in the building will need to be much higher than 120°. If any component in that house does not reach the desired temperature, then the process may fail because a gallery was missed. Fumigation on the other hand is a sure thing. The gas goes right through everything and there is no escaping it.
The advantage of using heat is that the turnaround time is much faster, and the process is going to be much safer. However, the cost of both of these treatments is probably going to be very similar. If you fumigate, I always recommend staying out of the house for at least 7 days after they tell you it is safe to go back in. There are accidents that happen every year, and some people have died because they went into the structure too soon after the fumigation was done. If you wait an additional 7 days, then the gas will certainly be gone by that time. So, if you do it right, then fumigation is perfectly safe. I always tell people that you should plan a two-week vacation if you're going to do fumigation. If you go with heat, it is pretty much safe to go back in after the process is finished, but I think it is unlikely that this process will eliminate all the galleries. For that reason, I do not recommend using heat. My opinion has always been, and still is, that fumigation is the only sure way to eliminate drywood termites. As far as I know, there is no chemical free way of eliminating drywood termites.
Both fumigation and heat treatments have no residual properties. Therefore, since your neighbors also have drywood termites, you need to do a preventive treatment on the building beginning before any treatments are done. This will ensure that you do not get reinfested. I have a video on how to do that and I'll provide a link below. This is a generic video that was created to prevent a lot of pests, but it also works to prevent drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Simply treat the house every 60 days, and you will be good to go.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
I got to say that the last two years here in se Louisiana we've had more swarmers than ever before. I do roofing and sheetmetal work and go to a lot of homes and most all houses at the time of swarmers, have them in there houses. We've had them come in three time. I don't know if they went to work eating my home or others but we still had a mess of cleaning them up.
You folks have drywood termites and Formosan termites. One's bad and the other is even worse. Everybody that lives there should be treating with termite granules and doing a drywood termite preventive treatment as well. I think there are only two kinds of people that live in SE Louisiana. Those that have termites and those that will have termites. Everyone who lives there should be proactive. Be well my friend.
Thanks for this fantastic video. Questions I have are as follow:
1,What the difference between subterranean termite and Drywood termite?
2, If I have seen some dried mud tubes and none of them connected to the gound and I have no leakage in the house.
Will the termite still survive?
The difference is between drywood termites and subterranean termites is that subterranean termites attack from the ground and typically leave mud tubes, but drywood termites attack from the air and literally fly to your house. Drywood termites do not leave mud tubes, but do create frass. To learn more about this, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link to that video.
When you see mud tubes, that is always concerning, even if they are not in contact with the ground. This should definitely be cause for concern. Sometimes the termites enter through cracks in the slab or foundation and find a way to higher elevations in the home before you start seeing the mud tubes. So, you need to break open the mud tubes with a putty knife and see if there is any termites inside. If you have an active infestation, then you will probably see some of them in there. I would also do a thorough inspection of my home, which would include the entire perimeter of the house, the eaves, the crawl space, and the attic. You may encounter mud tubes in all of these locations. If you do find active termites in any of these mud tubes, then try to obtain the specimen that has a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. At that point you can identify it by watching my video on how to identify termites species. After breaking open the mud tubes, keep an eye on them to see if they are rebuilt. If they are, then there is an active infestation. They should be rebuilt within a few days.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termites species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
I really appreciate your videos and have a few questions about dry wood termites in Florida:
1. Are you saying it’s necessary to treat the home every three months forever?
2. Two sides of my home peak up too high to reach from the ground with sprayer. Do I need to get up there with a ladder and spray the soffits and facia up there?
3. Do I need to treat the attic w/boracare in addition to spraying the outside of the house?
4. Termites are leaving frass at the base of a wall in my vestibule. Should that area be spot treated with the same chemicals used and in addition to spraying the outside of the house?
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. Unfortunately, you do need to do the preventive treatment every 60 to 90 days forever. If you stop doing it, the termites will be able to get back in.
You can treat the high places with a hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS. If you are going to do it this way, then you may as well treat your entire house with the hose end sprayer. Please watch my video on how to kill bugs before they enter your home. If you skip to 4.57 minutes into the video, it will show you how to use the hose end sprayer to treat high up places. If you are treating with Bifen XTS, then I recommend doing it every 60 days. That is exactly what I do. The hose end sprayer is super fast though. I can treat my entire house in under 30 minutes, and that includes set up and clean up time.
Treating the attic with bora-care is a very good idea because it makes the attic termite proof and a lot of the termites will enter into the attic. However, if you are diligent with the preventive treatment, then you do not need to treat the attic with bora-care.
If you want to spot treat an area, I show you how to do it in one of my videos. I will give you all the links.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to kill bugs before they enter your home: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thank you sooo much!
@@dflowers1477 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Thanks Guy. I will do the treatment myself and I will order the products today. : ) How to you spray FiPro into floor joist ? I would guess you would spray the sides and maybe at an angle ? Also I have some dry wood damage on the subfloor and I don't want to have spray fall on me so should I drill at an angle?
The best way to treat the floor joists is with Bora-Care. Go under the house, remove the insulation, and spray all the wood, including the subfloor, with Bora-Care, mixed one to one with water. See if you can drill tiny holes through the finished floor above. This is possible for hardwood floors. If so, then you can also treat the subfloor from above with fipronil foam. You can do it from below, but it's easier from above. It requires drilling holes every 4 inches along the infested area, about half way through the wood, and shooting fipronil foam into all the holes for about 5 seconds, or until it is coming out the other holes, or coming back out at you.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
You are a great man. Thanks for all you do.
As a floridian myself, I have to deal with pest constantly. Actually dealing with termites as we speak. Just had a swarm in my kitchen.
@@yeeebayeeba4268 Thank you for those kind words. Very much appreciated. If you have termite swarmers in your kitchen, then there is a good chance that they are drywood termites. Not always, but most of the time. I recommend that you get a free estimate from a pest control company. Almost all pest control companies will give you a free estimate. Just ask them what the species is. You want to make sure that you are actually dealing with drywood termites and not subterranean termites. The treatment is totally different. If these guys are drywood termites, then you should know that spot treating should only be done if you cannot afford to fumigate. There is almost no chance that you will find all the galleries. Neither will the pros. That's why fumigation is the only sure way to kill them all. While the pest controller is there, ask them what fumigation will cost. At least you will get an idea of what you are looking at cost wise. If you decide to fumigate, then get several estimates because prices can vary a lot. Also, you should know that, if these are drywood termites, then the other buildings around you are infested as well. That means there are more termites flying over to your house on a regular basis, so you need to start doing a preventative treatment to stop more of them from invading. I will give you a link to that video. If you fumigate, then you need to start this treatment a few days before they fumigate. That is because fumigation has no residual action, so the termites can reinfest you literally minutes after the tent comes down.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions OH my goodness. Thank you so very much for that detailed explanation and response. I have a feeling they are subterranean. I think they are coming from a bay window I have in the house. I will go ahead and watch the video you linked. Again, I can't thank you enough for your kindness and expertise.
@@yeeebayeeba4268 I hope that you are correct and these turn out to be subterranean. Drywood termites are expensive to deal with. By the way, I forgot to mention that you can kind of tell yourself if you still have the swarmers. If they are black, then they are subterranean. If they are a reddish color, then they are either drywood or Formosan. Telling the difference between drywood and Formosan is more complex, but plain vanilla subterranean termites are always black.
I hope that helps.
@@GuysPestSolutions well, maybe I'm wrong then.... they were definitely not black, but more of the redish vanilla color. I'd never seen it before, but there was about 50-80 of them maybe, in a kitchen area where the light was on. They were killed by setting off a bug bomb. I'm fairly positive I know what area they are coming from, but not sure how far they have moved up or how many are there now. I don't see any tunnels outside, but that part of the foundation is slightly less exposed than the rest of the house. Maybe 2" of exposed concrete before getting into the wall.
Hello Guy! I appreciate the excellent guidance you’ve given in your videos and I am on my way to treating my home for termites. I’ve confirmed subterranean so will be applying the granules as soon as they come in.
I do have a question though. This house has a basement where one exterior wall is block for about 4’ up then goes to 2x6 for framing and studs. There are definitely termites in there and I’m hoping they are subterranean and living in the blocks where I can’t see their tubes but can’t be sure so I’m treating that area with the fipronil foam. With *2x8” framing do I need to drill deeper than 1.5”?
I think it is a very good idea to do that spot treatment on those 2 X 6's. That will give the granules a really nice boost. You need to drill deep enough to go halfway through the wood. So, if you are drilling into a 5.5-inch-wide piece of wood, then you need to drill about 3 inches deep. The depth can be nominal. You just do not want to drill all the way through to the other side. You want to drill the holes about four inches apart along the entire affected area. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. Shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until it is either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes. All holes must have foam either going in or coming out.
You should know that subterranean termites do not colonize in concrete blocks. They always colonize in the ground. It is possible that they are building mud tubes inside those blocks, but they are not colonizing there. So, if you use the granules and you also spot treat the wood, then that should wipe out the entire colony and eliminate any activity inside the blocks. The exception to this would be if you have Formosan termites. These guys only operate in warm, humid environments. You typically find them in southern coastal states, Southern California, and states that border Mexico. They are also a big problem in Hawaii as well. If you were to have these guys visiting you, then the granules and spot treating would not get the job done. If you want to know if you live in an area where Formosan termites are found, then have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where they operate. I will place a link below for the video.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
Hello Mr. Guy. I live in Western VA, quite outside the range of the drywood termite. But, I noticed frass just as you describe being ejected from the frames of one of my windows. I found this twice and didn't realize what it was, until I went to remove the window for cleaning and found the wood very soft, and almost gone. When I took the window out to fix the frame I found one that looked just like you showed but light green. If we are so far outside the range could this be something else? I've not noticed any damage anywhere else.
If you get this, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I did respond to this question, but it looks like RUclips deleted it. They do that sometimes and I don’t know why. So sorry. Just copy your original comment and past it into the email. Also, please give me your RUclips name. Be well my friend.
Thank you for the very helpful videos and this one in particular. I'm currently in the process of selecting my termite treatment options for drywood and subterranean termites here in California. I've received 4 proposals for the work but narrowed it down to 2 local non-national companies. Both companies inspectors did a thorough inspection of my home and proposed a treatment plan (non-tenting) at a reasonable price that made sense to me. Im not sure which company to go with. Should I go with the company that specializes in termite control only or go with the general pest control company that proposed a more thorough treatment plan?
If you have both drywood and subterranean termites at the same time, then you need to do two different treatments. For the subterranean termites, they need to trench the house. That's it. If they are not doing that, then look elsewhere. You are getting ripped off. For drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate the house. I understand that it is expensive and the cheaper options look really good for you wallet, but they do not work. Drywood termites do not just have one gallery in your home. They can have many of them and those galleries are super hard to find. Even the best pest controllers cannot guarantee that they will find them all. Now, they will give you a guarantee for a year or two, but hose guarantees are totally worthless. All they are guaranteeing is that they will come back and treat a gallery that either you find or that they find after doing an annual inspection. So, galleries are going to get missed and your house will continue to get eaten. Spot treating for drywood termites is like playing Wack-a-mole. Going this way is kind of like being penny wise and pound foolish. Pest control companies should be ashamed of themselves for even offering this type of option. You would be much better served to go with fumigation for the drywood termites. Unfortunately, this will not solve the subterranean termite problem. Those guys may die from the fumigation, but new ones will be right back after the tent comes down because they only colonize in the ground. So, you must trench and fumigate. Finally, even after you fumigate and trench, you ARE going to get reinfested with drywood termites. You took care of the subterranean termites by trenching, but the drywood termites are infesting your neighbors' homes as well and they will happily fly over to your house again and reinfest your place because fumigation leaves no residual action. So, to prevent reinfestation, you need to do a preventative treatment for drywood termites every three months. I will give you a link to a video on how to do that. The problem that you are going to have in California is that they have a law against selling pesticides to non-licensed people. I think there are ways to still obtain products that you can explore and I will try to assist you with that if you like. Unfortunately, pest controllers typically will not do the preventive treatment for drywood termites, so it is something that you must do yourself in most cases. Don't be surprised if most pest controllers don't even know that it can be done.
I am so sorry that you are having these problems and I feel bad that I had to give you all that bad news, but everything I told you is the truth. You live in an area of the country where termites are a huge problem and the laws are designed to make it an ongoing and expense thing to deal with. The lawmakers hang their hats on saving the environment, but the truth is that applying pesticides yourself will not harm the environment any more than it will if a pest controller does it, which is not at all. You should watch my video on 12 Things That Pest Controllers Do Not Want You to Know. I will give you a link to that video as well. You will find it to be a real eye opener.
I wish you well and I hope it all works out for you. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
12 Things That Pest Controllers Do Not Want You to Know: ruclips.net/video/7o5AK2svUUA/видео.html
Hi Guy, Thanks for the amazing info. I have a widespread drywood termite infection in my garden whereby the termites have infected at least 5 trees, covering an area approximately 10 x 20 metres. I can also see some faint mud trails on the earth. Would like to check what are the realistic treatment options to eradicate or control this infestation?
This does not sound like drywood termites. I mean, it could be, but it sounds more like Formosan termites to me. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species and get back to me. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi, Thanks for your reply. Based on your video, they look very much like Formosan termites. Would spraying the garden/trees with fipronil & baiting the infected parts of the house with Chlorfluazuron (baiting is what my pest control did for the house) work?
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, RUclips did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me.
Please watch my video on Formosan termites. That will explain everything you need to know. I will give you the link.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Hi Guy,
Can you please recommend what type of termite product that I can use for interior of the house! Thank you.
First, make sure that what you have are actually termites. Next, determine the species. Drywood termites are treated differently that subterranean termites. For subterranean termites you also need to treat the ground around outside of the house. I will give you a link to a video on how to do that. For inside treatment, just follow the directions in my video on how to treat drywood termites yourself. I will place a link below. Go to the part where I show you how to apply FiPro or other fipronil foam. If you are seeing mud tubes, then scrape off a two-inch section of each tube and shoot the foam into both sides of the tube and on the surface. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and take the fipronil back to the colony to share with the other termites. If you are seeing wall damage or wood damage, then the inside treatment is explained in the video on how to treat for drywood termites. If you are seeing mud tubes, then these are subterranean termites and you must treat the outside of the house. If you are seeing kick out holes and frass, then they are drywood termites.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to treat drywood termites yourself and how to apply fipronil foam: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thank you for your videos. Very informative. What would you do if you were building a new house in drywood termite country? Standard wood framing with peel and stick housewrap on the exterior
Thanks for the question. Hands down, this is a no-brainer. After the shell is built and before the house wrap is on or the shingles are on the roof, when all the wood is exposed, you apply Bora-Care to all the surfaces. I mean ALL. You want to spray the top of the roof before the shingles go on and then everything else down from there, inside and out. Normally, I like to mix the Bora-Care one to one with water, but that is going to be somewhat expensive for an entire house and will probably cost a thousand dollars to do. Bora-Care costs about $80 a gallon and one to one only makes two gallons. Still, this is the best way to do it. However, if a thousand dollars is a bit steep for you, then you can mix it one to five and do the job for about four hundred dollars. It works, but not a good. I would spend the extra six hundred and do a perfect job. If you get drywood termites it will probably cost you two thousand to tent it, so it's money well spent. If you apply the Bora-Care to all the wood, inside and out, then your house will be permanently treated for drywood termites, not to mention subterranean termites as well. The Bora-Care lasts virtually forever. I would not even give it a second thought. If you are building a house, this is what you do. All builders should be required to do it. I will give you a link to a video on the application and a link to the product. They tell you that you should mix it with hot water, but cold works just fine. Most videos show you to just apply Bora-Care three feet from the floor up, but that is for subterranean termites only. For drywood termites, you need to treat all the wood in the entire home. Any wood you miss is wood that can be eaten.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Bora-Care supplier: www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care
Thank you again Guy. Very helpful
@@husaberg8501 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy. Great job. I have Drywood Termites in my cabinets. Termite inspection person inspected the entire house and only found termites in the cabinets. I did a spot treatment. Emptied all the cabinets and sprayed all the joints hopefully getting the unfinished wood surface. Found some exit holes that I sprayed in but they are very small. This is the product I used: BioAdvanced Termite and Carpenter Bee Killer Plus, Foam, 18 oz. Do you think my approach will work? If the foam is effective how long do I need to wait after spraying to see results. Since the termites are mostly inside the cabinets I thought about taking a fogger and putting it inside the cabinet, turning it on, closing the door of the cabinet and leaving the house. What do you think?
Fogging will do nothing to help. The foam you used should work, if you did it correctly. That being said, it is important to understand how drywood termites work. You need to ask how they got into your cabinets in the first place. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. That is why you are only seeing them in the cabinets. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. They most likely got to your cabinets because they swarmed from an exit hole somewhere inside your home. Exit holes are very tiny and they can be anywhere, so you probably didn't see it.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. The only good news is that drywood termites are very slow eaters and it takes a long time for them to do significant damage. However, if you just let it go, they will eventually cause structural damage that may cost thousands to repair. So, you do have some time to get pricing and to save up some money, but don't put it off for too long.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Just the exterior of the building): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thank You Guy for that very descriptive and well thoughtout reply@@GuysPestSolutions
@@rickbiddle4290 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Here in Hawaii homes are tented for barely 24 hours… is that adequate?
Wow. That was fast. I just posted this video a few minutes ago. Thanks for watching. The answer to your question is yes. They only need to tent for a day to kill the termites, but the problem is that the gas can linger inside the home for several days. It can be trapped inside the wall voids and such as that. So, most companies will leave the tent up for a couple of days and may use it to help vent out the gas and keep people out until it is safe to return. Once the tent is down, folks may think it's safe to return, when it isn't. That gas can and will kill you, so the pest control company needs to make sure that all the gas is gone before allowing you to re-enter the building. I often see the tents remain up for about 72 hours, but I suppose they could take them down as soon as they are finished fumigating. I would like to think that they would at least tape off the doors or tag them somehow to keep people out until they have ensured that the home is safe to enter. My own rule of thumb is to stay out for five days after the fumigation is completed. It's rare, but I have heard of cases where occupants have re-entered too soon and literally died overnight when the gas found it's way out of a wall void and into a bedroom. The pest control company has equipment to test for this, but for me, I would consider it an opportunity to take a one week vacation. There is no way I would ever consider entering a fumigated house the day after it was done. I don't care how safe they tell me it is.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
These here fly!! I live in Virginia!! The South Wast part.
West sorry
And I can't afford to get it sprayed professionally my Social security want let me
If you live in Virginia, then you may not have drywood termites at all. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link to it. If they are not drywood termites, then you may be able to treat them for $50 with termite granules. I will give you a link to that video as well. Your comments are not coming through to me in a timely manner, so please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to treat termites with granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Very informative video! My house currently has a drywood termite infestation and am planning to do fumigation. My question is though how long should we stay out of the house after the tent is down? Ive read that it is okay to come in after the amount of gas is really low. But at the same time ive read stories where the gas somehow did not go away days after the fumigation. I was thinking of staying out for 3-4 days after fumigation. But im also kind of paranoid about burglars getting in the house. Thanks!
I actually have two answers for you. The first answer that I'm going to give you is the one that I am supposed to give you. The company that does the fumigation has specialized equipment to test if the gas is completely gone out of the house. After they test to make sure that the house is safe, they will tell you that it is okay to move back in. You can re-enter the house anytime after that point. That being said, the second answer I will give you is what I would do. You know that it's going to take a couple of days for them to put up the tent and do the fumigation. At that point they need to make sure that all the gas is out of the house, and that is probably going to take another couple of days. You are absolutely correct that there are some horror stories out there about companies that have missed gas that was trapped in the walls, and it's seeped out overnight and killed people while they were sleeping. This happens very rarely, but it can't happen. So, if it were me, I would simply use this time to take a little vacation for about a week.
You are correct that burglars understand that houses that are tented are vacant. Even though it is extraordinarily dangerous to enter a tented house, some of these people are really desperate for money and they will take that risk. For that reason, you should always make sure that all your valuables are out of the house. Most of the time these folks are not looking to steal your TV or your furniture. Folks that are desperate enough to go into a tented house are usually suffering from drug addiction and that sort of thing. They are most likely not pulling up with a moving truck. Therefore, they are looking for jewelry, cash laying around the house, silverware, or small items of value. So, the best thing that you can do is to simply remove any of these sorts of things before the fumigation is done. If you like, you can also put a Blink camera system in your home for very little money. I don't know if you are familiar with the Blink system, but you can install just one camera if you like and it is motion activated. If somebody enters the house, they will have no choice but to pass by the camera and it will send a notification to your phone that someone has entered your home. All you need to do is to look at the video it sends you and you will know immediately if someone is in the house that does not belong there. At that point you simply call the police. Since most people store their jewelry in the master bedroom, that is the best place to locate the camera. These cameras are battery-operated, so there is no installation required. You simply put the camera down on top of a shelf, or any flat surface, and that's it. There is a module that needs to plug into your router, and then you just need to set up the app on your phone. It's pretty much that simple. I just looked on Amazon and they have a set of two cameras, which includes the sink module, for $95. So, you could set up one camera in the bedroom and one in the living room. If you like, they can also be permanently mounted to the wall. They're exterior grade, so you can also install them outside after the fumigation is over if you would like to do that. I started with just one many years ago, and I now have nine of them set up in different locations around the outside of the house. These cameras are an Amazon product, so they work with Alexa as well. I will give you a link to the sale I found.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Blink cameras: www.amazon.com/Blink-Outdoor-Camera-System-Wireless/dp/B086DKVS1N/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3J5CNJBWGJZS6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aPHbrI96yLHy6FgmRNRDVTF_lyLJsrLmJWF6J9Ztd9UmkKgnQqMCp5Aa-zyho7XNPvPvpwCBG6gzIQnA4oLBuvLIm6LhRLynculFK5PCvChVGMI0l--eSG_jVS4pVTT7nkqQdnd_KM256RLXk4MmrSJhSuELhiIfbZ1126BvS4GN551cYB2jlBTSGTb8MoVHCIDr4N2eCaOEtoNlvFFxFaAjzwkLcBPfUqAXIe8YDJk.ClAeffDLwUfvtuIO_aK7oL8OmHPlOHYxWJo5g2W7p90&dib_tag=se&keywords=blink+camera+outdoor&qid=1709028175&sprefix=blink+camera%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-2
@@GuysPestSolutions Got it! Really appreciate the videos you have been putting out. They have been very helpful for someone who got termites for the first time :)
@@boblee8799 I am always happy to help. By the way it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. This is why you need to fumigate.
Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. You should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. It is an absolute must that you start the preventive treatment before the tent goes up.
Just thought you should know. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. You only need to treat the exterior of the house every 60 days, as shown in this video): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Good to know the different options. On the rotted/termite damaged wood if to be locally treated by Termidor form. Various comments from the local termite companies. Some said to replace them before treatment, some said treat them first then wait 4-6 weeks to replace them, and some said to wait > 3 months before replacement. What would be more proper way? Is it OK to wait 2-3 weeks?
Hi Doug. You would think that us pest controllers would all agree on this stuff, but that is not the case. All I can tell you is my professional opinion and, like everyone else, I think mine is correct. I will explain my logic and you can be the judge. Termites come in two basic flavors. There are subterranean termites and drywood termites. With subterranean termites, you do not want to replace the wood right away because the colony is in the ground and not in your home. You want to give the termites time to bring the pesticide back to the underground colony and share it with the other termites, so as to wipe out the entire colony. Therefore, you don't want to remove the food source. You want to poison it and then leave it there until the infestation is totally gone. Drywood termites are different though. They do not colonize in the ground at all. They colonize in the wood. Also, the galleries that they create are fairly small. Often limited to just one 2x4 or one piece of molding. So, if you remove just that one piece of molding or that one 2x4, then you are literally removing the gallery and that part of the infestation is gone. Great idea. Right? Well, not so fast. The drywood termites may not have gotten the memo that they are supposed to just infest that one 2x4. It could be that the piece of molding that you removed had a gallery that extended from the molding into an adjoining 2x4. So, if you can be sure that you removed the entire gallery, then doing that is a good idea. However, if that gallery extends to an area that you cannot see, then removing it is a very bad idea. That is because, if you treat the obviously damaged area, the termites will carry the Termidor foam throughout the gallery and poison all the other termites and the entire gallery will die. Here in lies the difference of opinion. On the one hand, if you remove the gallery, then it's gone forever. On the other hand, it only takes a small hole to extend that gallery into an adjoining peice of wood and then you have a gallery that was not treated. By leaving the damaged wood alone until the termites are gone, you ensure that you killed off all the termites in that gallery. After that you can go ahead and do repairs. The Termidor works slowly in order to give the termites a chance to spread it around the gallery. It is not a fast kill product. Now, here is the tricky part. The time it takes to kill off the entire gallery depends upon how well the application was done. If you do the application my way and you do it correctly, then you would probably looking at a total kill time of two to three weeks. However, if you don't do it correctly then it will take longer. Therefore, you should not repair any damaged areas until you probe them for activity. Take a screwdriver and dig into the wood you want to replace and see if there are live termites in there. If there are, then hit them with another shot of the foam and wait another two weeks and try again. That is to say, I would not assign a timeline to it. The bottom line for me is to leave the wood in place until the infestation is totally gone and I would evaluate that ever two weeks by doing an inspection of the affected area. At that point you can do the repairs. That is what makes the most sense to me.
You see? Now you know everything you never wanted to know about treating drywood termites. I'll bet you're sorry you asked the question. Lol.
Be well Doug.
@@GuysPestSolutions Many thanks, great advice and guideline! To apply your points for drywood termite treatment, imagine a crossbow target with many circles(rectangles) zones, say 5 with the center target being zone 1. Zone 1,2,3 has been treated at the same time by Termidor form, after 2-3 weeks it will be safe to remove and replace zone 1 material. But for zone 3 replacement, zone 4 will need to be examined by the 2 week periodic timeframe, and if zone 4 needs to be treated then examine zone 5, etc. I guess one can apply the concept to different shapes. Now the question is the definition of zone width/length, I read one company's method to do spot treatment, they will extend the treatment to 30 inches (in all directions) beyond the active spot. My best bet for zone 1 will be 10 inches. And continue to probe/monitor outside the 30 inches boundary.
@@dougs3866 Here's the thing about treating drywood termites. The problem is not treating them. That's the easy part. The problem is finding them. They tend to establish small galleries in multiple locations throughout the building and they may be behind the drywall where you cannot see any frass or kick out holes. So, even the best pest controllers have a hard time finding all the galleries. If you cannot find a gallery, then you cannot treat it. That is why I advise people that the only sure fire way to totally eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. If you treat a gallery correctly, then it's going to die out within two or three weeks, no matter how large it is or whether or not it is located in just one piece of wood. The thing is though, how do you know that there is not another gallery in the next wall stud? If you look at my video on how to treat drywood termites yourself, I show you different ways to do the inspection, but none of them are 100 percent foolproof. If you miss even one gallery, then these guys are going to spread again to other areas of the building. Spot treating for drywood termites can be a lot like playing Whack A Mole. That is why I only recommend spot treating if you cannot afford to fumigate. Most pest control companies don't do it correctly, so you are better off doing it yourself. If you do fumigate, you should know that this provides no protection from future infestations and it is very likely that you will be reinfested within a year. That is because your neighbors have drywood termites too and they will swarm to your house fairly soon. The best way to prevent them is to follow the method I describe in my video on how to prevent drywood termites. If you don't do it, then you will be fumigating every few years and your home will constantly be getting eaten. I will give you a link to that video as well.
I hope that helps.
How to treat drywood termites yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
How to prevent a drywood termite infestation video: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Hi
I live in WV. i understand that drywood termites are not in wv, but the frass i have looks only like drywood here is a picture.
It is the salt and pepper pellet frass. No dust whatsoever, but lots of pellets
I never say never in pest control. Please send a photo to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Take the photo as close to the frass as you can get without losing focus. I need a crystal clear photo, so that I can look closely at those pellets. Also, please let me know if you purchased any furniture from an area where drywood termites are known to exist. Finally, let me know if you live near the coast. Be well Shirley.
Hi Guy! I live in Colorado and am pretty sure I have a drywood termite infestation in my garage because of the grass piles I'm finding. Would it be ok to send you a photo as well to help identify which termites I have? Thanks!
Frass* piles. Not grass piles lol
Spell check. Right? My spell check likes to change frass to either grass or France. Lol.
Have confirmed drywood termites in upstairs bathroom. 2-5 kick out holes found. I cannot tent. Do you have any suggestions to using termidor or Boracare as a spot treatment? Thanks for all your help!!!
Fumigation is the only sure way to get it done, but if that is not an option you can try spot treating it. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it. Be well my friend.
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thank you for your videos! Do you know what I should use to kill termites on my chicken coop? They are eating the coop in the bottom and I don’t think the chickens are eating because I see them walking on the floor.
Is the floor of the coop made of wood? If so, is it unpainted? If so, you can treat it with Bora-Care. I will provide links below. Also, please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species to see exactly what you have. This could affect your house without you knowing it. Mix the Bora-Care one to one with water.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Bora-Care suppliers:
www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care
www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
How to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
How do I locally treat drywood termites inside the wall studs in one bedroom wall. There are droppings through a small hole in the drywall. I live in Southern California and used to seeing this.
Before you start spot treating drywood termites, it is important to understand how they work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I will give you a link to my video on how to spot treat drywood termites yourself.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hi, guy, I want to know if I want to DIY to deal with the sub termite, I have drilled many holes on concrete but I cannot pour in enough termiticide into it, if you know any pressured machine can help this ? I also need to do local treatment for drywood termite, I could use these injection tool to push in orange oil or bora care as you recommended, can you give me some advices ? Appreciate your kindness of help.
Let's start with the subterranean termites. First, make sure that they are not Formosan termites. Those guys may need additional treatment. I will give you a link to my video on how to identify termite species. You do not always need to drill concrete. Most of the time you can just trench around it. I will give you a link to my video on how to trench properly. If you have a situation where you cannot trench around the concrete, then all you can do is hire a pro to treat that area. The pesticide needs to be injected under high pressure. This is best left to the pros.
Now, let's talk about the drywood termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. My video will show you exactly how to do it. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to trench properly: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Just the exterior of the house): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hey Guy, I have been following your channel. I think I have dry wood termites in my crawl space here in Raleigh NC as I found fras under some of the floor joists runners but see no mud tunnels in the crawl space or the outside of the house. I bought some diy foam and also termite spray concentrate from Lowes which I applied liberally. I also sprayed around all the foundation boards on top of the cinder block and the plastic air vents. Do you think this type of spot will work or should I go ahead and order some bora-care and spray on the runners. Will either of these work without drilling holes in the floor joists beamsI did pull back the insulation and did not see any signs of damage to the plywood subfloor above the runner with my necked I. I have already ordered the granular treatment you recommended in other videos for subterranean termites. As far as the spot treatment under the house is concerned, would checking for new fras be a good way to test for success. I placed a two foot wide clean strip of plastic under one of the runners to check for fras later. Thanks for your advice in advance. John
I think we have a lot to unpack here. The very first thing you need to do is to confirm your suspicions that these are drywood termites. I have seen cases where people have mistaken carpenter ant frass for termite frass. I've also seen cases where people have mistaken mud from subterranean termites as drywood termite frass. It can be very easy to make these mistakes, if you do not know what you are looking at. So, my first recommendation is to stop trying to treat it until you know exactly what it is. Improper treatment can waste time, money, and actually make the situation worse. Most of the products that you can get locally can actually make a termite problem worse. The reasons for that require a lot of explanation, but suffice it to say, it is generally a bad idea to use these products. I understand that the thought of termites eating your house is pretty scary, but the good news is that most species of termites are very slow eaters, and so you actually do have the luxury of time to figure it out. So, please relax, and let's start at the beginning.
Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Also, please watch my video on how to tell the difference between carpenter ants and termites. These two videos should give you all the information you need to make a determination if you have drywood termites or something else. At that point, please get back to me and I will walk you through all your options for treating the problem. I promise that I will stay with you until you get this resolved.
Applying the granules around the house is always a good idea, even if you do not have to termites. So, I would urge you to do that. The only thing is that you need to make sure that you get the correct granules. There are two kinds of granules now and one of them does not work, and may actually make the problem worse. You want the granules that you use imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Lowe's and Home Depot stores no longer sell the correct granules. They are still available from Amazon and I will give you a link to the product.
I hope that helps. I will look forward to hearing back from you.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on the difference between carpenter ants and termites: ruclips.net/video/enJPS-h70Bs/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_7&=&crid=3UG5VHBQKWV2Z&=&sprefix=termite
Wow Guy, thanks for getting back to me so quickly and with such detail. I actually received my order of BIOADVANCED granules yesterday. I had already watched your video on identifying a couple of times. A couple of years back I did have an infestation of subterranean in my garage between the concrete pad and an indoor side wall that allowed them to into the ground at the expansion joint. I know they were subterranean now based on your description of their mud tunnels up the brick. With this new situation which could have been happening for a year as I hadn’t been to that area of the craw space for a while. Without finding any tunnels and not actually finding a termite I figured it must be the dry wood termite. After reading your comments though I will be sure to check out your video on the possibility that it might be ants. I will get back to you in a bit. Maybe the spray I used as it said it also kills Carpenter ants will have worked. Anyway, as I did place a wide piece of clean plastic on the ground below the sprayed beams, I would think I would have new fras evidence within in a couple of weeks if I still have a problem. I will get back to you in anycase. In the meantime, I will be putting down the granules as soon as the painters are done. It’s always something with home ownership says the retiree.
@@JRC2053 Sounds good. Please do get back to me and let me know if these are drywood termites, subterranean termites, or carpenter ants. Most of the time, this sort of thing turns out to be just a common variety of subterranean termites, and the granules do a fine job getting rid of them, but it is always a good idea to positively identify the species. Be well my friend.
Great info, thanks!
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy, I rent a modular home and it has a add-on addition will all of the contents and sheet rock have to come out of the room
I answered this in another one of your comments. Please let me know if you didn't get it.
Hello Guy. Glad I found your RUclips channel since I'm in the middle of replacing the drywood termite infested structures with the new woods. Before replacing the structure with new woods, I would like to spray the infested areas and new woods with some kind of chemical that would prevent termite infestations in the future since I just had the whole house fumigation done. If I were to spray either Spectracide Terminate 1.3 Gal. AccuShot Ready-to-Use Termite and Carpenter Ant Killer Spray or BIOADVANCED
1 Gal. Ready-to-Use Carpenter Ant and Termite Killer Plus (bought from Home Depot) first BEFORE spraying Bora-Care, would Bora-Care still effective to last a lifetime?? Since you mentioned that Bora-Care has to be applied on untreated & un-painted woods to be effective. I have the two above-mentioned chemicals (Spectracide Terminate and Bioadavanced) on hand already and thinking of using them first while waiting for the Bora-Care shipment to arrive. Should I use those 2 chemicals before applying Bora-Care? Thank you so much for your time in making the videos and replying to comments. Lots of valuable info are in your contents!
If you want to replace damaged wood with new wood and make it termite proof, then Bora-Care it's definitely the way to go. Always make sure that you mix it one to one with water for maximum effectiveness. Treating the wood with products that you get from Home Depot probably won't do any harm and probably won't prevent the Bora-Care from working, but they also will not do any good as well. Applying those products is pretty much a waste of time and money. So, if it were me, I would just treat all new wood with Bora-Care.
All of that being said, you have a bigger problem. Drywood termites swarm every year, and the gas they used to fumigate your house has absolutely no residual action whatsoever. Therefore, your house is going to become reinfested the first time the termites swarm from your neighbors' homes. Trust me, if you had dry wood termites, your neighbors also have them. These guys are going to swarm again and they are going to find your house again. They may have already done it. Therefore, you should immediately begin to do a preventive treatment on the exterior of your home. I recommend that you do this treatment every 60 days. That is exactly what I do with my house. I will give you a link to the video on how to do it. I suggest that you order the products immediately and do the treatment the moment they arrive. Keep your fingers crossed that you get the treatment done before the termites swarm again. The beginning of the video shows you how to do it with a tank sprayer, but later in the video you will learn that you can also do it with a hose end sprayer. Doing this with a hose end sprayer is way faster than doing it with the tank sprayer, but you are not actually supposed to do it that way. By using a hose end sprayer, you will be exceeding label recommendations for the amount of product you are supposed to apply. However, I can assure you that this will not harm you or the environment. Also, the equipment is a lot cheaper to purchase as well.
I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for the detailed and informative replies. Your time and expertise are very much appreciated!
@@tiendo8301 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
How much would it cost to fumigate a single-wide, or is it even worth it?
It depend on where you are located and the size of the mobile home. Normally, you can expect to pay somewhere between $1200 to $3000. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your home at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your home, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
You already know that you need to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your home every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. You should begin the preventive treatment immediately to prevent even more termites from invading your home.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you for your in depth answer
@@ryanhudson1252 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
I have Drywood Termites along a specific wall in a mobile home which is situated in Central Florida. Some of the walls (plywood) are paper thin! Can I remove these panels and simply spray all the joists with Borecare?
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. The first question I have to ask is, are you sure that you have drywood termites or could they be Formosan termites? I'm just curious how you identified the species. I mean, you could be correct, but this sounds like a lot of damage for drywood termites. If you are not sure, then please watch my video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link for it. For now though, let's assume that you are correct.
The problem with drywood termites is that they are almost never limited to just one area of the building. They are also very difficult, if not impossible, to locate in every area where they have built a gallery. Therefore, the only sure way to get rid of them is to put a tent over the entire trailer and fumigate. Removing the plywood, as you suggested, and treating with Bora-Care is going to kill any termites they are inside the wall structure and it will make that entire wall structure permanently termite proof. The problem is though, as I have already explained, there is almost a zero possibility that the termites are limited to this one area. I would almost bet the ranch that they are in other walls and probably the ceiling/roof structure as well. So, my recommendations are to make sure that these guys are actually drywood termites, and if they are, then fumigate. If you confirm that these are drywood termites, you should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. To prevent this from happening you need to do a preventive treatment every 60 to 90 days. I have a video on that as well and I will give you a link below. It is important to understand, that if you have dry wood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. These guys swarm for several months out of the year, and they will definitely attack your trailer again the moment they swarm from one of your neighbors homes.
Please let me know if these turn out to NOT be drywood termites, and I would be happy to guide you further.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drive with termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Hello sir, I found some termites in one room coming through the sheet rock what we'll have to be done for treatment, my wife and I live with 2 dogs will the sheetrock have to all come out of room and the furniture as well
Whether or not you need to remove the drywall will depend upon how serious the damage is. It is a little-known fact that termites will eat drywall. Most people think that termites eat wood and, while that is true, it is not totally accurate. Termites actually eat cellulose and the reason they eat wood is because it contains cellulose. The thing is though that they will eat pretty much anything that contains cellulose and paper is in that category. Since drywall is covered with paper on both sides, then it is a target for termites. Most of the time, you do need to do drywall repairs, but it is not always extensive. If you have drywood termites, then you may only have a small area that is damaged, and you may just be able to patch, it as opposed to tearing down a lot of it. The only places that you need to really repair would be areas where you can easily push a screwdriver through. A professional drywaller can probably repair these areas without removing a lot of the drywall.
Make sure that these are actually drywood termites and not subterranean termites. If you have not done so already, then I would recommend that you call a pest control company and ask for a free termite inspection. If these guys are drywood termites, then I think you already know that the best way to treat them is to fumigate. If they are not drywood termites, then please get back to me and we can talk about the best way to treat for them. In any event, please do not sign a contract until you talk to me about it. Just thank the inspector for their time and let them know that you are going to get several estimates before you make any decisions. After you know the exact species, I can guide you on the best way to proceed with treating them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Can we non-professionals use BoraCare or Termidor SC to spray woods to prevent termites? Does BoraCare or Termidor SC have a lifetime effects on the treated woods ? What about the ones that sell at Home Depot?
Bora-Care will last forever, but Termidor will not, so you should treat wood with Bora-Care. Home Depot does not sell anything that will permanently treat wood for wood destroying pests. At least, I have never seen it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Wow!!! THANK YOU for your replies!! Your knowledge is very much appreciated!
@@tiendo8301 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Love your videos
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated.
Hi Guy! Great content! I recently had a swarm of Formosan termites (inspector came out and confirmed they are Formosan). During the swarming in the garage. I found them in many different areas in the house. The inspector believes they got into the attic and began dropping down through the vents. I'm not 100% sure that's correct as I saw them on the ground and ceilings. My question is: how do I know if they are in the walls of my home? Pest control is coming out to trench the house with Termidex. Any other suggestions? Do I need to tent the house?
You're kind of blowing my mind a little bit. Formosan termites do not enter through the attic. They are a very aggressive species of subterranean termites and they always attack from the ground. You often do see them in addicts, but that is because they built mud tubes into the attic from the ground. So, they are not going from the attic down, but rather from the ground up. Of course, all of that is irrelevant, because the treatment is the same. The very first thing that needs to be done is to trench around the entire house. Unfortunately, that is not always enough to get rid of these guys. Formosan termites are the only species of subterranean termites in the United States that have the capability to colonize in your home. They do this by building "cartons" in your walls and sometimes even in your attic. These cartons give them the ability to survive without returning to the ground. That means you could have any number of these cartons in your home and the pest control company should be looking for them. Just to be clear, if you have these cartons in your home, then trenching alone may not totally stop the infestation. It will take out a large part of it, but if there are cartons, then you will still have these very aggressive eaters munching away on your home. If you wish to know exactly how Formosan termites operate and what needs to be done to get rid of them, then watch my video on the subject. I will place a link below. This video will show you how to find those cartons. If you find cartons, there are two ways you can deal with them. The way it is usually done is that the drywall is removed and then the carton is removed from the wall, and then the wall is repaired. The other way you can do it is to tent and fumigate the entire house. Removing the cartons is usually the least expensive option.
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
@Guy's Pest Solutions Thank you so much for the guidance, it is much appreciated!!!
@@user-vj8sm2rv2l You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
What do you think of the organic treatments some pest control companies offer
@@Joshtancos_sk8 There are some techniques, know as "integrated pest management," that can be successful to some extent. For example, you can do things like keep trash can lids tightly closed to help prevent rats, or you can seal up cracks and crevices in the side of the building to stop pests from entering, and that sort of mechanical control. However, companies that offer to treat with things that they claim to be natural, are often just selling you snake oil. Some of those things work in certain situations, but oftentimes they do not work at all. Sometimes you need to use them in conjunction with actual pesticides. So, the success or failure of these more natural treatments is largely dependent upon the knowledge of the applicator and the specific target pests in question. As a general rule though, I think you would usually better off using standard pesticides. They are no longer as hazardous as they were in the last century. Just like cell phones, pesticides have come a long way in the 21st century. They are all now safe enough for children to play on after they dry. If you would like to know more about the safety of using pesticides, you can learn the truth by watching my video on the subject. I will give you a link to it. Be well my friend.
Video explaining the truth about using pesticides: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
Hi Guy! A termite company identified drywood termites in my attic and crawlspace. Besides tent fumigation, how effective are chemical free solutions for drywood termites like heat tenting? Any downside to heat tenting? I'm already living in my home and want to explore other options too. I heard you say spot treatment is less effective -- the little buggers travel and often not visible. Thanks so much!
It is a fact that heat will kill drywood termites. The problem is that you need to heat the termites to a temperature of at least 120° for at least a couple of hours. This is not so easy to do because the termites are typically located in the center of the wood, and wood is a natural insulator. That means it is difficult to heat. This problem is compounded by the fact that there's often insulation surrounding the wood, not to mention drywall. Further, there will often be drywood termites located in the fascia boards, roof rafters, sheathing under the exterior siding, and other difficult places to heat. Some companies will put a tent over the house to contain the heat, but not all companies do it this way. Some companies simply attempt to heat the house from the inside. Obviously, failing to tent the house is going to fail because you are not going to adequately heat the areas I just mentioned. Even if you tent the house, it is not enough to raise the temperature to 120°. You need to get the temperature to 120° inside every single piece of wood in the entire house. So, the question becomes, “How do you know if you accomplished this?” There is no practical way to determine if the center of every piece of wood in the house reaches the desired temperature. Therefore, this process is hit and miss at best. It can be successful sometimes, but it is not a sure thing. Also, these high temperatures can cause damage to electronic equipment and that sort of thing, so those things need to be removed from the house before the treatment is performed. Keep in mind that, if you want to reach the desired temperature in the center of all the wood, the actual temperature in the building will need to be much higher than 120°. If any component in that house does not reach the desired temperature, then the process may fail because a gallery was missed. Fumigation on the other hand is a sure thing. The gas goes right through everything and there is no escaping it.
The advantage of using heat is that the turnaround time is much faster, and the process is going to be much safer. However, the cost of both of these treatments is probably going to be very similar. If you fumigate, I always recommend staying out of the house for at least 7 days after they tell you it is safe to go back in. There are accidents that happen every year, and some people have died because they went into the structure too soon after the fumigation was done. If you wait an additional 7 days, then the gas will certainly be gone by that time. So, if you do it right, then fumigation is perfectly safe. I always tell people that you should plan a two-week vacation if you're going to do fumigation. If you go with heat, it is pretty much safe to go back in after the process is finished, but I think it is unlikely that this process will eliminate all the galleries. For that reason, I do not recommend using heat. My opinion has always been, and still is, that fumigation is the only sure way to eliminate drywood termites. As far as I know, there is no chemical free way of eliminating drywood termites.
Both fumigation and heat treatments have no residual properties. Therefore, since your neighbors also have drywood termites, you need to do a preventive treatment on the building beginning before any treatments are done. This will ensure that you do not get reinfested. I have a video on how to do that and I'll provide a link below. This is a generic video that was created to prevent a lot of pests, but it also works to prevent drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Simply treat the house every 60 days, and you will be good to go.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Very helpful. Thank you.
@@Howard-h1g You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Just watching for entertainment value!!!!
I think that is the nicest compliment anybody has ever paid me. Thank you so much. You made my day.
Sir, YOU ROCK!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
My home is 120 years old and I have removed all of the drywall and insulation. I have bare wood. I have 2 gallons of Taurus SC.
Can I use this instead of boracare to spray all of the wood?
I assume I have a nest in a rafters after hearing the soldier termite headbanging after I alarmed them.
If you have the wood exposed, then it's a no-brainer. Always use the Bora-Care. This is a permanent treatment and never needs to be reapplied. The Taurus SC is not permanent. Also, the Taurus SC cannot be used inside the house. Always mix the Bora-Care one part Bora-Care to one part water. Do not mix it one to five. This will kill any termites that are in the wood and prevent new ones. If you are seeing galleries, then drill holes into the galleries, about halfway through the wood and about four inches apart, and shoot fipronil foam into the holes. The holes only need to be wide enough for the applicator tip to enter. Shoot the foam in each hole for about five seconds or until it is either coming back out at you or it is coming out of the other holes that you drilled. Foam should either be going into or out of every hole. This will speed up the process.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Yes it does help tremendously. I appreciate your quick reply and value your knowledge that you are passionate to share for all to hear. I will do just as you said and put my worry to rest. Thank you very very much GUY!
@@ncinteriorsplus3520 You are very welcome. I am always happy to help. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, thank you for your informative videos. Since we can't find anyone to do the whole house Boracare or Microwave can we use something like the FLIR TG165-X to see colonies in studs and joists through drywall ourselves before spot treatment? It's obviously more expensive than the endoscope, but non-destructive and a tenth of the cost of a fumigation. We have had our basement treated with boracare and don't have an attic, but want to be more proactive and can't spray outside due to the dimensions/height of the home (which also cause fumigation tenting to be extremely expensive).
I know that there are some pest controllers who do use thermal imaging to try and detect drywood termites. It's another tool that can be used to help locate galleries, but I think it is unlikely that you will find all of them, and it is not beyond the realm of possibility that you will not find any of them. So, I don't know that it is worth the investment. You may want to try and rent one from Home Depot for a day and just see if you have any luck with it, before you purchase one. If you cannot afford any other treatment method, then spot treating is your best option, but you can probably do a better job yourself than the pest controllers will do. My video on how to treat drywood termites yourself explains exactly how to do it. Spot treating drywood termites is kind of like playing whack a mole. The galleries are going to keep showing up and you are going to need to keep treating them. If you do this yourself, you will quickly get the hang of it, and you will be able to do it better and more cost effectively than farming it out.
Please tell me why the dimensions and height of the home are a problem with regards to treating the exterior. I have a few tricks up my sleeve that can help with those sorts of issues. Keep in mind, that if you do not treat the exterior every 60 days, then the termites are going to continue to attack your home.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for your detailed reply, Guy! Your idea of renting the FLIR is a good one. Last night I found a local company that MIGHT use the thermal imaging and might (to my surprise) offer the semi-permanent solution of injecting foam (still waiting on the exact details) into existing drywalled spaces. The issue with spraying the exterior ourselves is that we have a hillside home where certain parts of the exterior feature a ~50 foot drop and uneven very sloped ground below that. I would give you the address but I don't exactly want to do that on youtube for obvious reasons, but if you're familiar with Los Angeles it's a pretty familiar setup, but comes with all kinds of maintenance headaches. So maybe if there's a 50 foot spraying hose extension I could get it done...but otherwise it seems (from my uneducated perspective) impossible to spray often without installing a permanent scaffolding around the house or repelling =P This is also why tenting is extraordinarily expensive...most places would have to get a commercial building sized tent but then do weird stuff to fasten it at the front since the street height is only one storey..
@@andrewlorenzlong If you can find a company that is willing to treat with Bora-Care foam, then that is probably a really good option for you because it is a permanent treatment. I am understandably skeptical that they will be able to treat all the galleries, but the areas that they do treat can never become infested with termites again. At a minimum, this will greatly limit the areas of damage. If you should discover a termite gallery after the treatment, then you can call the company back and ask them to treat that one area. The other nice thing about the Bora-Care treatment is that you do not need to worry about treating the outside because, again, this is a permanent treatment, so you cannot get reinfested. The biggest problem with this method is that it is hard to find anybody that will do it.
Now, if you cannot find somebody to do the Bora-Care treatment. Then, it is still a good idea to figure out a way to do the exterior treatment every 60 days. If you send me photos of all sides of the house, I may be able to give you a solution to the problem. You can send the photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I cannot promise that I will solve this for you, but I have been doing this a very long time, and I have a few little known tricks up my sleeve.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I had my home fumigated in August of 2022. I had dry wood termites. I am now seeing swarmers again can i treat them or do I need to have another fumigation?
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home, even though you were fumigated in 2022. However, they should not be swarming already. Like I said, it takes 4 to 7 years for them to be able to swarm. That means that the fumigation may not have worked. It's one thing to see frass after a year, but you should not be seeing swarmers, unless they flew in from the house next-door. If you are seeing a lot of swarmers in the house, then you may want to contact the pest control company and tell them that they failed. They may tell you that you just got reinfested, but now you know better. The termites cannot swarm for at least 4 years. No way they can swarm after one year.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. Hopefully, the company that did the fumigation will stand behind their work and fumigate again, but I wouldn't hold my breath. It's worth asking though. Probably they will just offer to spot treat, which is a waste of time.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
a friend has had dry wood termites in her kitchen cabinets for over 3 years. How bad do you think the damage? thank you. also would you buy a termite infested home?
Both interesting questions. I suppose the answer to both questions is, "It depends."
Let's start with the first question. It's always hard to say how bad an infestation is going to be because you really don't know when or where it began. There is a reasonably good chance that it did not start in the kitchen cabinets and also a reasonably good chance that it is not limited to the kitchen cabinets. The good news is that drywood termites are fairly slow eaters and they limit themselves to fairly small galleries. The bad news is that they have the ability to create lots of new galleries all over the place. They may be in the attic, the walls, furniture, and so forth. The problem is finding them. Even the pros have a hard time locating all the galleries. That is the reason why fumigating is the recommended treatment. So, I think it's reasonable to presume that the infestation is not limited to the kitchen cabinets and there are probably any number of galleries throughout the house at this point. It is impossible to tell if there is any structural damage without doing an inspection, so I would recommend that your friend get one done ASAP. The inspections are free, so why not? Just tell her not to sign anything. As I explained in the video, there are a number of treatment options and prices can vary greatly. She should get several inspections done and get several estimates.
With regard to purchasing a termite infested home, well, I'm a pest controller. So, for me, I would easily be able to tell how much damage has been done to the building and, if the damage was not that bad, then yes I would purchase the property. For someone who is not a pest controller, the seller customarily is required to have a termite inspection done at their expense. Also, most banks require that the seller pay to have the termite problem resolved prior to the closing and the property needs to be certified as termite free by a qualified pest control company. If there is structural damage, then that should be noted in the inspection report. Homes should also be inspected by a qualified home inspector as well. The cost of this inspection is usually paid by the buyer and prices usually run around two to three hundred dollars. It's part of this inspector's job to find structural damage and any other problems with the building. This inspection is well worth the money. Far too many people cheap it out to save a couple of hundred dollars and then get stuck with some major problems that need to be resolved. It's far better to spend the money and find nothing wrong, than to save the money and find out later that you purchased a money pit. A lot of people don't do it because the sale falls through for some reason after they spend the money and they get tired of laying out a couple of hundred dollars every time they put down good faith money on a home. I get it, but it's just part of the price of buying a home. Anyway, termites would not be a deal killer for me, if there is no serious structural damage, the problem is taken care of, and the price is right. Now, if the price is super good, like a foreclosure or something, and the house is an "as is" deal, I would consider purchasing it even with serious structural damage. It's just that the cost of repairs is going to need to be reflected in the purchase price. So, if the house is worth $300,000 and there is $50,000 worth of structural repairs needed, then I am going to want the property for less than $250,000, because I need to cover the cost of my time to pull it all together and I need some cushion in case things get more expensive than the estimates would suggest. So, my offer may only be $200,000. Like I said, "It depends."
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you so much for your thorough answers! :) My friend rents a condo, so she says she doesn't need to worry about it because that is why she rents LOL I assume it's in all of the condo units where she is at if they are in hers. She said the building was tented about 7 years ago and noticed the frass starting agin about 6 years ago. I would assume the condo is toast by now
@@GuysPestSolutions should I advise her to have the landlord or HOA tent her condo building with her belongings in it before she moves, when/if she moves? would that eliminate the problem of her moving the infestation to a new place?
@@hideoussails1783 That sounds about right. If the building was fumigated seven years ago, then it's a safe bet that it was reinfested not too long after and it generally takes a couple of years to start noticing the damage again. The good news is that your friend is correct. This is not her problem. That is, unless the owner decides to fumigate again. If that is the case, she will need to vacate for several days while the work is being performed. Other than that, it's nothing for her to worry about. Drywood termites are not harmful to people. It should be noted though that these guys can and do infest furniture. Even upholstered furniture often has wood framing that can become infested. Should she ever buy a home, it is possible that she can bring a piece of infested furniture with her and get an infestation in her own house. Just something to keep in mind.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much. I'll let her know :)
If they infest the furniture, if they fumigated right before she moved out, would she not have to worry about her furniture in the new place?
Can cold weather 30 degrees Fahrenheit kill dry wood termites?
That is an interesting question. There has been some laboratory research done on this, but I'm not aware of any field testing in real life situations. So, how cold it needs to get to kill any species of termites is somewhat unclear. I think the general consensus would be that temperatures of 30° Fahrenheit would probably not be sufficient to kill the termites. Their metabolism would most likely just slow down to the point that they would not be active, but it probably wouldn't kill them. Also, you need to take into consideration that just because the temperature outside is 30 degrees, that does not mean the temperature inside the wood where the gallery is located is also going to be 30 degrees. Wood is actually a pretty good insulator, so it would have to be 30 degrees outside for a very long time before the temperature inside the wood would be equal to the temperature that you are seeing outside the building. That being said, drywood termites typically do not survive well in climates where the temperature routinely falls below freezing. It is not the absence of heat that kills them, but rather the absence of humidity. Humidity and temperature seem to be closely related. The colder it gets, the less humidity there usually is. For any species of termites to survive, they need moisture. Subterranean termites obtain this moisture from the ground. Since drywood termites are not subterranean, they colonize in the wood itself. Therefore, they must obtain the moisture they need from the humidity in the air. In places where it is cold all winter long, the humidity drops to a point where drywood termites cannot survive. That is why you usually just find them in southern coastal states, California, and Hawaii. You will also find them in a variety of other countries as well. Typically, you find them near the coast because there is more humidity there. If you watch my video on how to identify termite species, you can see where drywood termites are located in the US. I have a map in that video, and drywood termites only survive in the red areas on the map.
I suppose I could have simply said no, but I thought you would prefer to read a more in-depth explanation.
I hope that helps. Be well Becky.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Thank you so much!
You are very welcome. Be well Lana.
Do drywood termites need to pair up to start a colony like the subterranean variety? I sometimes see winged termites but they are alone and if they go into a crack or hole in my exterior of the house it is not likely a mate will be there.
There are over 2,000 different species of termites in the world. To the best of my knowledge, they all require a queen and a king in order to reproduce. Typically, the swarmers travel in pairs, consisting of one queen and one king. In the case of drywood termites, the king and queen fly to your house and enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, in the eaves, or through some sort of other penetration like pipes that enter the building. That being said, it is not uncommon to see just once swarmer. Termites do not live long when they are exposed to the air. They dehydrate pretty quickly, so they have a very limited time to establish a new gallery. Sometimes, either the king or the queen die before they can accomplish this, so you will just see one. Don't be fooled though. Termites swarmers do not usually travel alone. If you see one termite swarmer, it is very likely that they were a lot of others that were flying towards your house at the same time. They're called swarmers for a reason. That is because they travel in swarms. Many of them leave the galleries at the same time, so it is not unusual to see quite a few of them attacking a building. Also, if you see just one drywood termites swarmer, then it means there is at least one building, and probably many more, in your neighborhood that is already invested. One of those buildings may be yours. Since termites swarm every year for several weeks, it is a safe bet that you have been getting swarmed for a long time now, and it is very possible that you are already infested. A lot of the time you never see these guys, until it is too late. It takes 4 to 7 years for a gallery to mature to the point where it can produce swarmers. Also, even though drywood termites produce frass, this frass is often hidden in the walls where you can't see it. After the termites start to swarm, they will travel through holes in this wall studs that were drilled by the electricians to run the wiring. That means they will likely be in multiple places throughout your home, and you may be totally unaware of it.
Unfortunately, if you are infested with drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices can vary a lot in this industry for fumigation, so please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. You may not need it right now, but hang on to it in case you do. That video may save you a lot of money.
There is also a treatment that you can begin using to prevent a drywood termite infestation. I will give you a link to that video as well. This will do nothing to kill off an existing infestation if you have one, but it will prevent any more drywood termites from entering your home. Please note that if you fumigate, the gas they use has no residual action, and you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Therefore, you need to begin the preventive treatment prior to getting a fumigation done. I recommend doing this treatment every 60 days.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. Just the house.): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you, that was very informative.
@@lym3204 You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I have a wood shed in my backyard with termites in the floor. The shed is small enough to purchase a tarp at Harbor Freight to act as a tent for gas treatment. I was tempted to run this machine that vibrates the floor like hell to chase them out. I made the shed into a mancave with bookcase full of books, couch, TV, etc. Do I need to remove everything out for the gas poison?
Are you sure that these are drywood termites? Tenting only works for drywood termites and not subterranean termites. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Let me know what you find out and I can tell you the best way to treat the problem. Is the floor covered with carpet, tile, or something like that, or is it just plywood? Are the walls covered with drywall or anything? How large is the shed and is it just one room? Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters.
Gas will work for drywood termites, but what kind of gas were you planning to use? If the floor and the walls are not finished, then there are other treatment options for drywood termites that would be better.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/FN7JyBNSooY/видео.html
@GuysPestSolutions I live in San Bernardino, California High desert. My shed is 12×16 one room. The shed has sheets of plywood floors that are varnished on top. The shed is insulated, drywall, textured and painted, wired with electrical outlets, air conditioning, and French doors. The floor has several pin holes with wood granules mounds like ant hills. There is no sight of any termites to know what species. Thanks.
@@JERRYR708 Please tell me more about the wood granules mounds. Look closely at that material. Is it shaped like tiny pellets or is it more like mud? Can you move it easily with your finger or is it hard? Does it look a lot like sawdust, but is not shaped like tiny pellets?
@@GuysPestSolutionsShaped like tiny round pellets and easily moved and can be blown with a light puff of air.
@@JERRYR708 Do you suppose you could send me a photo of those pellets? Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and use that same technique to photograph this material. Take a photo close up and also one a bit further away for size reference. You can send them to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. This is sounding a lot like drywood termites, but let's make sure. Be well my friend.
Thanks for your videos. I own a B and G foamer. Could I use boracare to inject a gallery with the same results as fipronil?
I'm not sure how to answer that question exactly. It's a little like comparing apples to oranges. With the fipronil foam, in the aerosol cans, we are drilling holes directly into the wood. That particular application method allows the foam to really find its way through every little nook and cranny that is created by the termites. Also, the hole that you need to drill is much smaller with the aerosol cans than it would be with the B&G foamer. That being said, using a B&G foamer and applying Bora-Care is a great way to attack drywood termites. The only thing is that we generally do not drill holes directly into the wood, like we do with the fipronil foam cans. That is because, unlike the fipronil foam, the Bora-Care will penetrate the wood simply by touching it. That means we do not need to drill all those holes throughout the entire area that we are treating. Generally, with a B&G foamer, all you need to do is drill one hole in between the studs and just foam the wall void. So, you do not need to drill all those holes like you would with a fipronil foam can. Further, unlike fipronil, the Bora-Care is permanent. Therefore, the answer to your question is both yes and no. You can certainly use the B&G foamer, but you need to do it in a different way and the results may even be better than with the fipronil foam. In fact, if you were to give me my choice of the two applications being discussed, I would opt for the B&G former. The only reason I do not dive into that too much in my video is because the foamers are somewhat expensive. Also, you can use the foamer to treat the attic as well. I will share a couple of videos on how to treat the entire house with the foamer. Please understand though that foaming with Bora-Care is not a panacea. The videos make it sound like a sure thing, but you are still likely to miss galleries. Still, it is superior to the fipronil foam. At least, that is my opinion.
I hope that answers your question. Be well my friend.
Video 1 on how to treat for drywood termites with Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/kXQTc9wwCfQ/видео.html
Video 2 on how to treat for drywood termites with Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/7hajP8VrK0I/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for the thorough answer. I have both products but felt that if the boracare kills the colony just as well I like the long life potential of the products and the way it permeates the wood that I might miss. Also the tip is only 3/16th of an inch so I could also hit the studs with lots of activity with some drilled holes. Unfortunately the townhome I just purchased has alot of drywood termites. How would you suggest to do a ceiling with no attic space. It has a cement shingle roof so I prefer to stop the termites seeing how there is alot of weight. Thanks for your time.
@@1nomadman It certainly doesn't hurt to foam directly into the wood with the foamer, but the holes are going to be somewhat wider than with the fipronil cans. For FiPro you only need about a 1/8-inch-wide hole, but with the foamer you may need to drill a bit wider than the 3/16-inch size of the foamer tip. I'm thinking you would want a 1/4-inch hole. It's a bit easier to patch a 1/8-inch hole rather than a 1/4-inch hole. You can experiment a little with it to see what works best for you.
To be totally honest with you, I don't know how you can treat above the ceiling effectively. You can try foaming it, but it's really going to be a Hail Mary Pass. This is why you need to fumigate. I understand that the neighbor's often times do not understand the problem and won't do anything about it, but you should definitely try. You know that the termites are probably eating the rafters, so it's just a matter of time before those rafters fail. At that point you are looking at God only knows how much money to fix it. It will run in the thousands to be sure. The entire roof may need to be removed from the entire building, neighbors' and all. Then it's sister rafters and replacing the sheathing and shingles. I shudder to think of what that will cost. The only good news there is that the entire framework can then be treated with Bora-Care before it is closed up again and the sheathing can also be treated before it is installed. That will prevent the problem from happening again, but at what cost? Fumigating makes much better sense to me. You should really try to have a meeting with the neighbors. I would be more than happy to talk to them.
Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions I tried to convince the neighbors but unfortunately they would not all go for it so I'm kinda stuck. Oddly enough one doesn't believe that they have termites which is laughable because they are only one unit away and I don't think drywood termites discriminate . Maybe a microwave treatment would work 🤔
@@1nomadman I am not surprised that you have neighbors who are in denial about the problem. I would be way more surprised if you had neighbors who were not in denial about the problem. This is the same story that I hear over and over again. Unfortunately, if your neighbor's roof collapses, then your unit may get flooded with water and your unit may even be declared as not structurally sound. That is why, when you buy a townhouse or a condominium, you are kind of marrying your neighbors in a way. That is also why it is a good idea for condominiums and townhomes to have condo associations. When there are condo associations, then neighbors can literally be required by the association to do the fumigation. It's the same with things like making sure the exterior of the buildings are painted a similar or complementary color or making sure that everybody replaces their roof when it needs to be done. In the absence of a condo association then you are left at the mercy of whatever your neighbors wish to do. Unfortunately, one of the big reasons people buy condos and townhomes in the first place is because they do not have the money to purchase a single-family home. That being the case, it is not likely that everybody is going to agree to a major purchase like this unless they have no choice. Sometimes it's because they are just simply in denial, but sometimes it's more logical. If you know anything about drywood termites, you know that they are very slow eaters and it takes a long time for structural damage to occur. So, if one of your neighbors is planning to sell their unit within the next year or two, it might make sense to them to simply sell and not bother with the drywood termites. Of course, the problem that they may run into is that banks usually want a termite inspection and, if the inspector finds the drywood termites, that sale is most likely not going to take place. Either way, people have a way of shooting themselves in the foot.
Microwaving is fairly new technology for the treatment of drywood termites. Most of the time, it is only used on the walls, but it is within the realm of possibility that there may be a way to modify the unit so that it can be used for a ceiling such as yours. I'm kind of guessing that you have drywall attached directly to the rafters and that is why you do not have an attic. If that is the case, then it is possible that a microwave unit could resolve the issue, if there was a way to keep it against the ceiling. I have no personal experience with using these units and so I don't know if it's possible or not. You may want to call around to see if you can find a pest control company that uses this type of a unit. You may have difficulty finding one because the technology is fairly new.
You may also consider purchasing a Termatrac T3i. These things are not cheap and I think they cost around $2700. Still, your home is a major investment and so it may pay to have this equipment on hand so that you can find where all the drywood termites are located. You could also ask around to see if any of the termite companies use this piece of equipment. I have never had one, but I understand that they are pretty accurate in locating termite activity. If those two ideas are not an option for you, you may try a less expensive option of purchasing a thermal imaging camera. The jury is still out on exactly how effective this equipment is in locating drywood termites, but some people do report that they have had success with it. I think you can purchase one of these units on Amazon for around for $500. You may want to check out eBay as well to see if you can find either the Termatrec T3i or the thermal imaging camera used. Sometimes you can get lucky. If you could score either of these items and practice a little on using them, you may be able to offer your neighbors a free service to check out their units as well. In that same line of thinking, you may suggest to your neighbors that they get a free inspection done by a professional pest control company. The inspections are free, so they may go for it.
I wish I had more to offer. You are definitely in a difficult situation.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Recently I have noticed termites inside my house, places are two rooms on hardwood floor, one spot in attic and two spots in crawl space, they did inspection and told me it ll cost $3000 for heat treatment and fumigation will cost $3500 house is 978 square feet. I need your advice. Thank you 🙏
Heat treatments do not work well and can cause damage to a lot of items in the house. Fumigation is pretty much a sure thing, so that is the way I would go. I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It may save you a lot of money. Don't take the first price you get. It pays to shop. When it comes to fumigation, the lowest bidder is usually fine. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you so much, by watching your video I just ordered bora care , planing to do it by myself. Wish me luck thank you 🙏 your new subscribers
@@lobodorji3217 Make sure you mix the Bora-Care one to one with water and not one to five. Don't believe the label. Also, cold water works just fine. No need to use hot water. Don't worry. You will do a good job. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy, do you know if it's okay to leave electronics like TVs, laptops, computers in a house that is being tented? Or does the fumigation destroy them? thanks
It is perfectly okay to leave all your electronics in the house during fumigation. The gas will not harm any of those items. In fact, it's probably a good idea to have them in the house. While there are probably no termites in your electronics, there could be other bugs that have taken up residence in you TV, computer, or such as that and the gas will kill all of those guys as well.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks so much, good to know for future reference
@@hideoussails1783 👍👍
I have drywood termite swarmers showing up in a place I bought recently and I haven't slept well in weeks... The told me there hasnt been any active termites for 2+ years, and now 2 months into living here I already see swarmers and from my research that means they have been here for a minimum of 4 years already...You mentioned Drywoods are slow eaters, how slow are they? If they have been here for years am I looking at some serious damage??
It's hard to know for sure how long the termites have been there, but if these are drywood termites, they don't operate like subterranean termites. With subterranean termites there is one colony that is always underground somewhere, but with drywood termites there are multiple galleries that are in the wood itself. Galleries tend to be fairly small before the swarmers leave and start new galleries. So, you end up with a number of small galleries with drywoods, instead of one area that is extensively eaten, like with subterranean termites. Since drywoods do eat slowly and the galleries are relatively small, it takes time for them to do serious structural damage, but it will happen. The galleries will get larger over time and, eventually, the infested wood will fail. It is hard to put a timeline on it, but if the problem has been going on for four years, then it is possible that some wood has been seriously compromised. At the same time, it is possible that you are still okay. Your best bet would be to get an inspection done, as outlined in my video. Since different pest controllers approach the problem differently, it is wise to get multiple estimates and opinions. It's one of those things you just need to put your eye on to see what is going on and exactly how bad it is. Drywood termites are hard to find, so the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. I'm sorry that I cannot be of more help. I know that I am not telling you anything that is particularly helpful, but this is the nature of drywood termites. The best advice I can give you is to do what I suggest in the video. Get the inspections done and, if these are drywood termites, do your best to fumigate. Prices vary greatly in this industry, so be sure to get several estimates.
Be well Bryan. I am so sorry that you are having this problem. There was no way for you to see it coming.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your response. Unfortunately I live in a townhome and the neighbors have been insistent that they don't see termites so they don't feel the need to tent. I would 100% tent if i could, I would even cover most of the cost even for the other townhomes if they allowed it. I know that they could obviously re-enter the home but I would be cleaning the slate and making them totally rebuild their numbers which would put me at ease. As far as assessing damage already done by them, what type of person would you recommend to assess it? A termite inspector or a General Contractor? or both?
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, RUclips did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please let me know if this has not been resolved and I will explain your options. You may want to use the email.
Hey Guy, what treatment option is left if the house is attached to another because that means you can’t fumigate if the house has an abutting structure? And spot treatment won’t possibly eliminate all the dry wood termites, only the ones you see.
To add more context, our two story house has wood siding and we found areas of frass along the wood siding. A few Termite guys came and said we have dry wood termites but one of them say the only way to get rid of all of them is to replace our siding with hardie board. The other said we can do spot treatment all along the wood siding.
@@pwngladiator I am so sorry to hear that you're in this situation. You are not alone though. There are many people who are facing this problem. It sounds like you have a very good understanding of how drywood termites work. This being the case, I think you already know that the pest controllers that looked at your siding have no clue about what they're doing. The odds of your drywood termite infestation being limited to the siding, would be kind of like winning the lottery. It would be one chance in several million. Trust me, if the termites are in the siding, then they have entered into the walls as well. I would almost bet the ranch that they are also in the attic. The problem is, as you already know, these guys are very difficult to detect. They can be eating away at you wall structures or roof structure for years before you realized that they are there. The pest controllers that you had inspect should have inspected the attic, but what I hear from people all the time is that the pest controllers do not go up there and even have a look. So, it would not surprise me if that was your experience as well. It is getting harder and harder to find pest controllers that are qualified to do this type of inspection. At least they were able to identify the species and so you now know what you are dealing with.
The first piece of advice that I always give to people in your situation is to talk to the other owners of this structure to see if they will agree to a fumigation. Any pest controller that tells you that they can spot treat the problem successfully, either does not know what they're doing or they are lying to you. A knowledgeable and reputable pest controller is going to tell you that you need to fumigate. As you are already aware, if you have dry wood termites, then everybody in the entire building has them as well. Of course, the problem people often run into is that their neighbors do not realize they have drywood termites or they do not understand the gravity of the situation. Either way, they are not going to shell out a couple of thousand dollars to get a fumigation done. Still, I think the first thing that you need to do is have a talk with all the owners of the building and explain to them what is going on. You can offer to arrange to have their units inspected by a qualified pest controller. Oftentimes, when people realize that they do have this problem, and their condo or townhome is in the process of being destroyed, they may agree to do something about it. If you offer to do all the leg work, it gives you the advantage of choosing a pest controller that will not try to sell people a spot treatment. If you are fortunate enough to have a condo association, then you can advise them of the situation. In most cases, they would have the authority to mandate a fumigation or at least bring everybody together to vote on the problem. It has been my experience that sometimes these things work and sometimes they do not. Unfortunately, if you cannot convince your neighbors to all agree to a fumigation, then the only real alternatives were outlined in the video. Sadly, none of these options are going to solve the problem. Even if you spot treat your unit and you are fortunate enough to kill all the galleries you have, the termites are going to continue to reinfest because they're going to be coming from adjoining units. Further, if serious structural damage results in an adjoining unit, that may render your unit uninhabitable. So, the bottom line is, if you cannot get the entire building fumigated, then the best you can do is to spot treat yourself or hire somebody to do it. As you already know, the best this will do is to maybe slow down the inevitable. Drywood termites are slow eaters, but it's kind of like failing to treat cancer. Even if it's a slow growing cancer, eventually it is going to kill you. It's the same way with drywood termites. It can take years before there is serious structural failure, but you can pretty much count on it at some point. There is no telling how long the problem has been going on and how much damage is already done. Therefore, the bottom line is that, if you cannot get the building fumigated, then my advice would be to sell and purchase a single-family home. The only good news here is that you probably have the luxury of time. I would not sit on the problem, but you do have time to see if the neighbors will agree to a fumigation. If that fails, then you do have time to sell and look for a single-family home that you can afford.
I wish I had better news for you. At least now you are aware of the problem and you understand what your options are. I feel really bad for you and I wish that I could be of more assistance. Unfortunately, all I can do is just confirm the reality that you already understand.
If you would like tips on how to hire a qualified pest controller, without getting ripped off, then please have a look at my video on the subject. I will place a link below.
Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions so we live in the west coast and our structure is actually a single family home (not condo) but they are all connected to other houses on the same block. What makes you think they have gotten into the framing? We’ve only seen evidence of frass on the outside of our siding. Never found any inside of the house. Our wood siding is still structurally good so why wouldn’t the termites be happy with just eating that? And if we replace our siding and expose the stud framing, then can’t we see if we see evidence if they have gotten farther in and do treatment?
@@pwngladiator Are the houses physically touching each other? A photo would be very helpful. You can send one to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com.
I think tearing the siding off of the house would kind of be putting the cart before the horse. That would be an expensive thing to do, just to learn that it did not solve the problem. The reason I do not believe that the problem is limited to the siding is because that is not how drywood termites work. Unlike subterranean termites that live in the ground, drywood termites are kind of the Air Force of the termite species. These guys swarm for several months every year and they fly directly to your home and can enter through any type of crack or crevice that they can find. That means if they are in your siding then it's a fairly safe bet that they have also found cracks or crevices that are around your windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Further, siding is not very thick, so it would not be beyond the realm of possibility that they ate their way through to the other side and are swarming inside your walls. It is very possible that you would not see frass inside the house because they are kicking the frass out on the sides of the 2 x4's that are located inside the walls. The reason the termites are not happy just eating your siding is because drywood termites do not work that way. That would be subterranean termite behavior. Drywood termites like small galleries and they create many of them throughout the building. Every time they swarm, they are looking for new locations to invest. It is important to understand that the swarmers are actually reproductives, looking for a new place to start a gallery. By the time you realize you have a drywood termite problem, you usually have many galleries located throughout the building. Now, I always tell people that I have learned to never say never in pest control, so it is always possible that I am incorrect. However, I think removing the siding, just to find out that you have a much more serious problem, will do nothing but add a lot of expense to your ultimate solution. That is to say, the overwhelming odds are in favor of a much more widespread infestation than it is a localized infestation that is limited to the siding. Yes, if you do remove the siding, and if you remove the underlayment that is behind the siding, in order to expose the studs, then you can see if there is an infestation in the studs. However, that still will not tell you if there is an infestation in your attic. So, if it were me, the very first thing I would do is inspect the attic. If you have them in the attic, then it's almost a certainty that you have them in the walls as well. If the problem is limited to the siding, then all you really need to do is spot treat the galleries. Those are easy to find because they ALWAYS create kick out holes. If there is a gallery that has no kick out holes, then those kick out holes are on the other side of the gallery that are inside your walls. In any event, removing the siding would not be a cost effective or necessary solution. At least, that's how it seems to me.
I hope that helps.
How can I treat damp wood termites in outside soil
Dampwood termites like to colonize in wet wood instead of the ground. It is possible for them to colonize in your home, but that would only be the case if you had very wet wood. That can happen from leaks that are not repaired. As a general rule though, we do not see them in homes very often. If you are seeing them in the soil, you need to make sure that they are dampwood and not a different species. If you are seeing them in the ground and if you live somewhere like Arizona, then they could be desert termites. We usually do not treat dampwood termites that are outside because they are good for the environment. The most obvious treatment is to remove the wood. Please let me know where you live and let me know exactly what you are seeing. I will do my best to help figure it out.
Be well my friend.
Hi guy do you make a personal support for pest controlers ? sorry abour my english i am from Panama City thank yoy
I'm not sure what you mean by "personal support." I will answer any question you may have and I do that for everybody, including pest controllers. I have several pest controllers who are now seeking advice and I gladly give it. I have also spoken with folks on the phone as well. You can write to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com to ask specific questions if you like. I am always happy to help.
Be well Joan.
i am in california, Just bought a house and has Drywood termite, tent is to expensive, is it worth it? any alternative?
I'm afraid that all the treatment options are listed in this video. The only one that is guaranteed to work is fumigation. You can do a spot treatment yourself, but it is highly unlikely that you are going to find all the galleries. Still, if you cannot afford fumigation, then my video on spot treating yourself is your best course of action. It's the only one on the web that will show you how to do it right. I will provide a link below for it. Please let me know if you have any questions after you watch the video.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks I appreciate it
@@jamesishere6630 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
ARE YOU SAYING DRY WOOD TERMITES ARE ONLY IN THOSE AREAS??? I WILLWATCH FOR AN ANSWER--WASHINGTON/OREGON!!!
That is correct. Of course, I have been doing this long enough to never say never, but you should not be seeing drywood termites in Washington or Oregon. That being said, I have seen cases where someone purchased a piece of wooden furniture from the red area and brought it home to a colder climate and the interior of the house had some drywood termites. This is very rare though and the termites usually don't survive for long. They count on the moisture that is found in more tropical climates and the colder climates are usually very dry in the winter, so they don't survive. So, I can say with a reasonable degree of certainty that you are probably not dealing with drywood termites if you live in Washington or Oregon.
That being said, I am now getting reports of a new species of termite that has not been seen in the US before. It is an invasive species of subterranean termites that I think is coming from somewhere like the Philippines. I have had a couple of people send me photos of their crawlspaces and there were termite towers under there. That is not something that previously existed in the US. So far, I have only heard of this in California, but you know it's going to spread. I also encountered a species of termite in Arizona that I was not able to identify. I sent a photo to several entomologists and they were not able to identify it either. Even the entomologist in Arizona could not identify it. That is why I never say never. You never know when an invasive species is going to show up and throw you off your game. Nevertheless, I'm pretty certain that drywood termites will not survive where you are.
I hope that helps.
Love you! Thank you
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for the love. Very much appreciated. Be well Prissy.
I just found what appears to be a baby termite on my curtain in my room🙃now what?
Spray out side or inside?
Or both?
You generally do not find termites on curtains, so this may be something else entirely. Most pest control companies will do a free inspection for you and, if you show them the specimen, they should be able to tell you what it is. Please take this seriously because it could even be a bedbug. After you have it identified, I can most likely tell you how to treat the problem.
I hope that helps. Be well Cherrie.
Hello , I currently have a two story home with drywoood termites according to hulett pest company. We decided to go with the injection method into termite galleries since it’s more affordable. Do you think this will work? Is there anything else I can purchase to use from Home Depot that can help kill them as well ?
There is nothing you can purchase from Home Depot that will help the situation. As I point out in my video, the only sure-fire way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. It sounds like you opted for a spot treatment, which is far from a sure thing. If the pest controller is really good and very lucky, then he/she may get them all, but I would not take it to the bank. Also, if they are not treating the attic with Bora-Care, then there is a good chance that it won't work. Even after you get all the galleries eliminated, then you can become reinfested the next day. If you have drywood termites, then it is quite likely that your neighbors have them as well and they will most likely fly over to your house again at some point. The only way to prevent this is to treat the exterior of your home every three months. Pest control companies will not do it for any price. It is something that you must do yourself. That is because it requires spraying the eves and facia boards and pest controllers usually will not treat above their heads. I have a video on how to prevent drywood termites and I will place a link below for it. My recommendation is to pay the money and fumigate. Then do the preventative treatment every three months. I know that is probably not what you want to hear, but it's the honest truth.
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Be well my friend.
How to prevent drywood termites video: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you very much for your advice. It’s been really stressful situation. So update from yesterday the inspector from hulett did the injections into the areas in the house that he saw holes . He also went to the attics and sprayed some type of gas into it. But he said from looking around he didn’t not see too much wood damage in the attic and he did not see any live termites up there. No major damage located. And he was not able to find any termites of damage inside the garage attic. But they said they will continue to come every 60 days and inject additional areas and let us know if it’s probably best to just fumigate. Thank you I will check the video you posted now.
@@sweettooth7625 I always hate being the bearer of bad news, but from your description, the pest controller did not do a proper treatment. Here's the thing about drywood termites. You cannot just treat where you see the holes. These guys can be in wall studs and the kick out holes can be on the sides of the studs that are behind the drywall, so you will never see the kick out holes. So, if the pest controller just treated where he saw holes, then there is almost a 100 percent chance that there are still galleries in your walls that have not been treated. Also, there is almost no way to properly inspect an attic. Think about it for a minute. Your ceiling joists have insulation between them. Often times insulation that was blown in. In any event, he would have had to literally remove all that insulation to properly inspect the ceiling joists for kick out holes and frass. I seriously doubt if he did that. If he found any termite activity at all in the attic, then I can assure you that he did not find all the galleries up there. Again, just based on your description of the treatment, it would be an incredible stroke of luck if the pest controller found and treated all the galleries. If you want to understand what I am talking about and the right way to do a spot treatment, I happen to have a video on it and I will place a link below. This video was made for do it yourselfers, but it is also the procedure that the pros should be doing. I know that this is not something you want to do yourself, but you will find the video to be very educational on the subject. I talk about the right ways to inspect for drywood termites and the right way to spot treat them. I also explain all the reasons why spot treating may not be successful. I would urge you to watch this video, so that you have a full understanding of what you are dealing with. Your home is being eaten by termites and, if you fail to stop it, then it's not going to end well. This will end up costing you a lot more money in the end. It's the old saying, "You can pay me now or pay me later." If you pay later, then it's going to cost a lot more money after you have structural damage. So, please watch this video. It is so important.
Again, I am so sorry to have to deliver undesirable news.
How to treat drywood termites yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hey sir, I am from Arslan India. There are a lot of cockroaches in my office, how can I get rid of them? Can you tell me any chemicals?
I receive questions from all over the world, but I think you are the first from India. I had no idea that anyone from India would be watching my videos. It is very humbling.
I am not familiar with all the species of roaches in India, but I believe that the most common ones are American, German, Oriental, and Brown-Banded. Of these, the one that is most likely to cause a serious infestation are the German roaches, although you can sometimes get a problem with the Brown-Banded and Oriental ones as well. American roaches can come inside, but they typically like to stay outdoors and will only come in when they do not like the climate conditions outside. They don't survive well inside, so they are not usually a major problem. So, my first recommendation is to figure out the species. A good place to start is to watch my video on German cockroaches. That video will allow you to identify if these guys are German or not. If they are, then the video will show you how to treat them. If they are German, then do everything in the video. If they are not German, then you may be able to get away with just doing phase one in the video. I will place a link below for the video. That being said, I do not know what pesticides are available in India or what suppliers will ship there. So, you may need to do a bit of research to find the pesticides that I recommend. Often times Amazon will ship anywhere, but not always. You can also try ePestSupply. I know that they do ship internationally, but I do not know if they ship to all countries. They are somewhat more expensive than Amazon, so I would try them last. I will place a link below for them.
I hope that helps. Thank you so much for watching. Be well my friend.
How to Exterminate German Cockroaches video: ruclips.net/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/видео.html
ePestSupply: www.epestcontrol.com/?msclkid=b985fffb25651c620ea89db3339cedac&**LP%20Branded%20-%20A&*ePestSupply?msclkid=b985fffb25651c620ea89db3339cedac&A%2ALP+Branded+-+A&AePestSupply
Thanks!
Thank you so much. That was so kind of you. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I’ve been watching your videos. I have a dry termite infestation in facia board. Thank you so much for your videos.
I have a question. I have valleys in my roof with no rain gutters. The flow of water is heavier in these valleys onto the facia board. It seems I have a lot more termites on the facia in areas where I have roof runoff in these valleys. Does this make sense?I would imagine I need to spray every three months in these valleys in the facia area and also perhaps put rain gutters in?
The valleys should have been installed so that the water runs off past the top of the fascia board, so it shouldn't matter unless you have a roof leak. If the roof is in good condition, then the termites cannot enter through the shingles. This is something that you would need a roofer to check out. Most of them will come out for free to have a look. I'm sorry that I cannot be of more help with that. Be well my friend.
I am so sorry that you are dealing with this. If you are sure that these are drywood termites, then it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
After the fumigation is done, then you can repair the fascia boards. Also, prior to the fumigation, it would be a good idea to have the roof inspected to make sure that it is in good shape.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
how do you determine how much damage ha been done?
It's a good idea to get someone that knows what they are looking at. You need to inspect the roof rafters, ceiling joists, floor joists (unless it's a slab home), flooring underlayment, roof sheathing, and so forth. You also need to do your best to determine if there is damage to bearing-walls. If you want an idea about how to do this, you can watch my video on how to treat a drywood termite infestation yourself. I go over inspection methods in that video. I will place a link below. If you can actually see the exposed wood, like in the attic, then you just look for kick out holes and frass and you try to push a screwdriver through the wood everywhere you can. Walls are a lot more problematic, which you will see in the video.
I hope that helps.
How to Treat a Drywood Termite Infestation video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Problem is is that it's condos
@@hideoussails1783 How you do the inspection is going to depend upon the type of condo you are talking about. If it has multiple stories with each floor having a unit, then it can be very problematic. However, if it's more like a townhome where you have your own roof and the unit runs from the ground to the roof, then it's basically done the same way as a single family home. In either case though, the problem is that there could be damage to adjoining units. It is one of the many reasons why I recommend that folks never buy any type of condo or townhome. It makes pest control much more problematic and don't get me started on condo associations. They may look like a good deal because they are cheaper than a single unit home, but they can end up costing you a lot more in the end. You literally have no say when the roof will get replaced, when painting the exterior is going to get done, when water mains need replacing, when the building is going to be fumigated, and on and on and on. All of which you are required to pay for. If you don't pay, the association can literally foreclose on your home. Your wallet can get eaten alive with these things. Then, if some of this stuff is not done, the building can become structurally unsound or infested with all sorts of pests. Condos are always a potential nightmare and that is why I would avoid them if at all possible. While it is true that your association dues generally include money to replace the roof and other maintenance items when they reach their useful life, the dues generally do not cover unforeseen stuff, like termite fumigation, water damage that is not covered by insurance, and that sort of thing. So, for me, I have never considered purchasing a condo.
I hope that helps.
@@GuysPestSolutions Yes, multi story condo. Thank you for potentially saving everyone from a nightmare situation :) Probably better to rent a condo and avoid hassles and be able to sleep at night. I also hear HOAs can change their rules on you. Forget that mess, just asking for problems with HOAs. Thank you again. I was also thinking another problem with condos is they are infested with vacation rentals and the nightmare of having to deal with rotating strangers next door bringing their vermin in their luggage
I had about 30-50 Formosa swarmers in my attic yesterday. I live in coastal south. They had no wings on them. My house is only 7 years old and had professional pest control for atleast 4 of those 7 years. The Orkin guy said they are living in my blown insulation. Sounds ridiculous to me..they quoted me almost $4k to blow treated insulation into the attic.
That's too funny. You were wise not to fall for that. Some insulation is made out of cellulose and termites do eat cellulose, but the insulation is almost always treated with a permanent pesticide that will kill termites. Trust me when I tell you that your Formosan termites are most likely not eating your insulation. If you see them in the installation it is because they are building or have built a carton where the installation is located. You should know that Formosan termites are a serious problem because they are very fast eaters, and can do a lot of damage very quickly, so you need to get on this right away. This is something you can treat yourself and you can probably do a better job then the pros can. You can get everything you need for a couple of hundred dollars. I have a video on how to do it. Even if you want to contract this out, you should still watch the video, because it will teach you a lot about Formosan termites. I will give you a link below. Good grief. How is it possible that Okin can hire somebody that incompetent? You know, now that I think of it, you would be wise to make sure that this guy identified the species correctly. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. It's not as hard as you may think. I will give you a link to that video as well.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions I think it’s actually West Indian dry wood termites. Would you care if I emailed you a picture of them?
@@Writerx83 Drywood termites are much different than Formosan termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. It is very common to see them in the attic. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
You can send me a photo of one of the swarmers, but it is very difficult to tell the difference between Formosan and drywood termite swarmers, just by looking at a photo. The easiest way to tell is to look for mud tubes and frass. If you watched my video on how to identify termite species, then you know what mud tubes and frass looks like. You are most likely going to find one or the other. Formosan termites do not produce frass, and drywood termites do not create mud tubes. So, if you find mud tubes, then you have Formosan termites. If you find frass, then you have drywood termites. It's pretty much that simple.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
I got a quote for like 900 to do a termite treatment. He told me the tent isn’t Necessary. Do you think I should do the tent to guarantee they are all dead, then do the treatment?
The pest controller wants to spot treat the problem, which never works. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
was that $900 estimate for Subterranean termites?
If you have subterraneans that may work but not drywood.
@@dirtrider9268 This sounds like drywood termites, but it could be subterranean termites. That is not clear. $900 would be consistent with either trenching for subterranean termites or spot treating drywood termites. That would be a good price for trenching, but a waste of money for drywood termites. Be well my friend.
Thank you
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
lol... "if listening to me is entertaining, then, maybe it might be time to expand your horizons a little..."
Yeah, I admit that I'm pretty boring. It's funny. Some people write to me to tell me that I talk too slow and I'm boring. Fair enough, but I don't understand why they think I don't already know that. My wife mentions it to me all the time. Lol. It's not like they are discovering some unknow revelation. I'm a pest controller. Not an entertainer. I figure if folks want entertainment, they need to watch TikTok. If they want to know how to eliminate a bug infestation, then watch me. That being said, there are a select few who actually like the way I talk and do binge watch my videos. For that I am most appreciative, but even I don't even watch them after I post them. Perhaps that's because I already know how to do this stuff. Anyway, thanks for watching. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions and I know boring... I grew up in a small town east of Portland, Oregon, called Boring, Oregon. You're not boring, per say... you're educational. Anyway, my wife is pressuring me to hire a termite company to get rid of termites in this house. First estimate, $3k and they'll heat-treat the entire house to 140 degrees for some time, and that is supposed to kill 'em. $200/year and they'll come back anytime if I suspect they have regrouped. [Terminex] 2nd estimate from Orkin, was $2600 and they'll spot treat where they see evidences of termites. This is guaranteed for 5 years. A local company is coming tomorrow to give me a 3rd estimate. I like your video of just using that Bayer product from HomeDepot/Lowes, and sprinkling it around the house, six inches away from the structure, for about $50+. I got to talk her into letting me use this product instead of forking out the top dollar for the professionals. Greg [garden grove, CA]
Good questions for public. Nowadays, has any company come uyp with a technology/GPS based item that will actually show you were termintes are in the ground per say. A GPS locator if you will. Has this been invented yet by a person/company. Something to think about as it relates to pess control industry.
@@arntrezlacy399 As far as I know, that technology does not exist. I don't know if it would be all that helpful in most situation because colonies can be as deep as 25 feet underground. Sometimes the colony, or part of it, are actually under the house. In that situation, this could be very helpful because the house would get treated much differently. Most of the time, if there are mud tubes under the house that are indirect contact with the ground, we just assume that there is a colony under the house. This is not always the case though, so it would be helpful to have this technology available in that instance. Fortunately, we don't see this that often. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@hartleyhubbard3827 Before you do anything, you need to identify the species. The treatments they are talking about are consistent with drywood termites, so the granules would not work for you. Look at the estimates and see if these are drywood termites. If so, I recommend that you do not go with any of these guys because they are telling you the wrong treatment. Also, the warranties you are talking about are a rip-off. I have a video on that. Don't waste your money. For now, let's assume that these are drywood termites. I will change my advice up a bit if they are subterranean termites.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on termite warranties and bonds: ruclips.net/video/lWUdyyxotjg/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
So it's buyer beware when buying a house even with termite inspection?
I suppose it's always buyer beware with buying a home. It's not just termite inspections that can fail. Even the best of home inspectors can miss things that can cost a lot to get fixed. For example, a home inspector can only inspect what they can see. A home may have been built with polybutylene plumbing that was supposedly replaced, but it may not have been replaced inside the walls where the inspector cannot see. A good example is my house. My house was built with copper pipe from China and, at some point, it failed and the previous owner replaced it himself. He used PEX, which is very good, but he did not replace the pipes in all the walls. For example, where the plumbing goes into the showers. It was just too hard to get to, so he left the defective copper in place. There is no way that I could see that. Of course, that pipe did fail and I ended up having to remove drywall to access the pipe. The good news is that I know how to do that sort of stuff. It would have cost a lot if I had to pay a plumber and a drywaller to do the work. So, when it comes to buying a home, all you can do is the best you can do. Inspectors do catch a lot of stuff and, most of the time a good pest controller will find a termite infestation. It's never a sure thing, but it's better than not inspecting. All that being said, buying a home is a smart investment.
@@GuysPestSolutions Is copper pipe from China like the Chinese drywall problem years ago? what a nightmare! I think I will pass on a house if it has termites or had termites, because if they were a problem again I would probably kick myself because I would be taking a known risk lol
@@hideoussails1783 I have become suspicious of everything made in China. I still buy lots of stuff made in China, but I no longer buy anything that will cause a problem if it fails. When I purchased my house I never gave a thought to the supply tubes for the toilets. Well, about two years after I purchased the house, one of the supply tubes burst when I was not at home and it ruined all my wood floors in the entire house. About $11,000 in damage. The insurance covered it, but when I went to install new flooring, I paid more to get a product that was made in the good old USA. It's kind of my own personal rule now. If it's something that can cause damage or injury if it fails, then I shy away from Chinese products. I still buy all sorts of other stuff from there, like electronics, clothes, and so on.
Don't let termites scare you off from a house. Just make sure that the home is certified as termite free before closing and all damage was repaired. Otherwise, get estimates for fixing everything and let the seller know that you will not close unless the price is reduced to the amount required for the repairs. If those things do not happen, then walk away. The contracts almost always have an escape clause if you are not happy with the inspection results for any reason. If that is not in the contract, tell your Realtor to put it in.
I hope that helps.
@@GuysPestSolutions the problem also is China is buying USA so what do you do ? Crazy times to buy a house with people buying with no inspections, as is, etc. Crazy people. Thank you for your advice :)
@@hideoussails1783 You are absolutely correct. China is not trying to defeat us militarily, they're trying to simply by the United States. The truly insane part is that they are doing it with our money. You are also correct that there are a lot of investors who are buying homes without inspections. In fact, they are buying these homes sight unseen. I must get anywhere from one to three phone calls every day from somebody trying to buy my house. They are not lowballing me either. These are investors who are willing to pay full price to get my house. That is because they know that property prices are going to do nothing but go up. Real estate is one of the best investments you can make. Still, there are some ways to get around this. For example, you can buy a HUD home and they will not sell to investors, unless a private buyer is not available to make the purchase. They have a requirement that you must live in the home, I think for at least one year, in order to make the purchase. That effectively takes investors out of that particular market.
Hello Sir is Boric Acid good for killing termites?
Boric acid does kill termites, but I know of no effective way to deliver it. For boric acid to work, you must apply it where the termites are traveling. That means, if you have drywood termites, you need to get it inside the wood. How do you do that? You are better off treating galleries with a fipronil foam, but how do you find all the galleries? So, the best thing you can do for drywood termites is to fumigate. For subterranean termites, you cannot trench with boric acid because you cannot get it wet, or it stops working. You could scrape off a section of a mud tube and puff some into the tube, but I don't know if you can deliver a sufficient amount to kill the entire colony. You have the same problem with subs as you do with drywood in terms of treating infested wood. How to you get the boric acid into the wood? Boric acid works great for roaches and ants, but not so much for termites.
Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Have you got any other solution? like different chemical i can use? thanks sir
@@HermanCandas I take it that you have drywood termites? If that is the case, then I must tell you up front that your best option is to fumigate. Killing off a gallery is super easy but finding them is the problem. It is almost impossible to find all the galleries because they can be inside the walls and the kick out holes can be behind the drywall on the sides of the suds that you cannot see. They may also be in areas of the attic that you cannot access. However, if you simply cannot afford to fumigate, then I have a video on how to spot treat yourself and you can do a better job than the pros. If you decide to fumigate, then also watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. I will give you links to both videos. These videos cover everything you need to know about spot treating drywood termites and hiring a pest control company.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you Sir for your reply. However I live in Australia. i dont know what type of termites we have, i hired someone to the job and paid him half but his done the runner on me and hasnt turned up for 5 months. I filed a complaint to one of Australias biggest firms that handles dodgy companys. The problem is in the ceiling where the termites are and his put 10 big holes inside the house, he has damaged our house. And each time he would go up the ceiling he would make noises like he was breaking things and i got upset i said what are you doing up there with all that noise? he said nothing. I wish i can go up and have a look but i cant. So i rang a different pest control guy and he inspected everything and he told us the termites are still in the house and the dodgy pest company has ripped us off. So now he will pay us back and fix all the holes and top of that will sue for poor workmanship!!!!!!!!!!
@@HermanCandas I am so sorry to hear that. I have had a number of people from Australia that have contacted me about termites. The problem is that you have different species than we do here in the states. Some of the species that you will encounter there can be very destructive and some of the time one species looks very much like another. So, I am not qualified to identify a specific species from Australia. The termites you have there often behave differently than the ones we have here. Therefore, they sometimes need to be treated differently than the methods I am used to. I can tell you though that some of the termites you may encounter there can destroy your home fairly quickly, so you do need to get on top of this as soon as you can. Hopefully, the pest controller that inspected your home told you what the species is and the best way to treat it. I feel bad that you got ripped off, and I find it so disheartening that you have the same sort of dishonest people there that we have in America as well.
I really wish I could be of more assistance to you, but I do have my limitations and I don't want to mislead you.
Be well my friend.
Super sir
❤
Has anyone tried Ozone generator treatment ?🤔
I too have heard about people using ozone generators to kill drywood termites. I think the jury is still out on it though. These devices were not really designed to be killing pests, but rather to eliminate odors and you should be aware that they are somewhat hazardous to use. If you are going to use one, then nobody can be in the house while the device is being used and you have to make sure that you air out the house really well for at least a day before you allow anybody to go back inside. Now, I have heard of people using these things for drywood termites in very confined spaces, but I have not seen any tests for an entire home. So, my guess is that there may be some potential for this to work, but I would think that you would need to be running several of these units at the same time in different areas of the house and it is unclear just how long you would need them to run them to treat an entire home. The truth is that these units were not designed for this purpose. Of course, that doesn't mean they won't work. I think absolutely everybody that lives in drywood termite territory would be over the moon to learn that there was an effective way to totally eradicate a drywood termite infestation without the need to call a pest controller, but I think there needs to be a lot more research done before people run out and get these things to do it themselves. To test this treatment method would require that a family vacate the home for at least several days because these things will literally kill you. It's one thing to test these units in a controlled test chamber, but it's an entirely different matter if you're trying them out in the field for an entire home. Obviously, one of the problems is going to be, how do you know if the treatment was effective? There are probably lots of drywood termite galleries behind the drywall, so how would you know if you killed all those galleries? I think the only way you would really know, is if you had a test house where you could actually remove all the drywall in the entire house and inspect to see the results. Then you have to figure out what size generators are required, how many are required, and what the appropriate treatment time is to treat a house. That means, the people doing this research are probably going to have to tear apart several houses before they get it right. So, it seems to me that using an ozone generator to treat your house for drywood termites may be promising, but it is not the sort of thing that I would just go ahead and try on my own, until the proper research has been done to determine exactly how you should go about doing it and the effectiveness of this treatment. Hopefully, this will become an option in the near future, but I don't think we are quite there yet.
Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for the detailed reply Guy. I was thinking of using it more as a preventative treatment. Say just an hour our two every month in the attic, shed, or porch. I have also read that too much ozone can deteriorate, rubber, plastic, paint, etc and leave a permanent unpleasant off gassing odor, so over-treament could have detrimental unintended consequences.
@@DaveG-qd6ug I think you should so as much research as you can before you do it. You know what they say? "What you don't know may kill you." Please let me know how you make out. This is new ground for me as well and I find it very interesting. I love when folks try new things and think outside the box. Just be careful. This does seem to have the potential for harm.
@@GuysPestSolutions Will do I am going to try it in the shed first to be safe. 😀
@@DaveG-qd6ug Sound like a good plan to me. Please let me know how you make out.
Found termites they want to charge me $13,000 dollars. Help me please
Ow. That's a lot of money. Please tell me where you live and tell me about the house. How many square feet is it? Is it more than one story tall? Are you sure that these are drywood termites? What company gave you the estimate? If you have a copy of the estimate, please email a copy to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. It would be helpful for me to have a look at it to see what they are saying. Let's see if we can save you some money. Be well my friend.
Got another estimate for $5500 to cover the entire house 2000 sq feet with a basement and a car port 30x 60
Dry wood termite both companies said the same thing
@@grupomotorhd1593 For that kind of money they must be talking about tenting and fumigating the house. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
If you have drywood termites, then the companies that gave you the quotes are telling the truth that the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, as you have already found out, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The pest control companies often fail to mention this. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Some companies will quote you a price for spot treating, but they have no hope of finding all the galleries either, so don't fall for that lowball price for spot treating. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. Always start the preventive treatment prior to fumigation.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. You just need to treat the exterior of the house every 60 days): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Termites got in my attic and it apears that Beangle Roach & Flea Foggers have killed them.
I am so sorry to have to tell you that the Fogger did nothing to get rid of the termites. Those were reproductives that were most likely in the wood in the attic. They swarm every year and only live for a short time, so a lot of them would have died even if you didn't fog. There is a good chance that these are drywood termites, but they could be subterranean as well. Either way, the termites are still there, and they are busy eating your roof structure. Let me explain what you need to know about drywood termites. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions endoscope inspection shows no termites & no damageto the structure, except to the mobil home cieling panels .