I’ve had a pest control company here in southwest Florida for my home for 15 yrs. They never completely got rid of those tiny ghost ants and for the last Few years the ants have gotten worse. After watching your video on eliminate ghost ants, I followed your instructions about baiting them…I am happy to say they have been gone for almost a year. I know they were living in the house because of so many areas they were in our home. Thank you so much for your instructions. Needless to say we no longer have a pest control company. We do it ourselves. Thanks again.
Thank you so much for those kind words. It was very kind of you to take the time to provide that feedback and it is very gratifying to hear. You made my day. Be well Sandy.
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, RUclips did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
he's telling the truth he helped me out, communicated with me multiple times, and since then none of my termite indicators have went off and havent seen a sign of them either - brother knows his stuff! Thanks Guy!
Thank you so much for those kind words and for watching my videos. I love it when I get feedback, either good or bad. I prefer good, but I also want to know when things do not go well. It is very gratifying to know that things worked out for you. Be well my friend.
I've been watching several of your videos the last few days. Way beyond pest control advice, your general advice - for hiring professionals and DIY (for anything) - is invaluable. You've really given me confidence to take control of my affairs. I generally am more afraid of hiring a pro than the problem itself!! We recently saw dry wood termite swarmers emerging from the ceiling. This had happened 4 yrs ago. We hired a company, but having listened your info and other further research, I can see how little they really did. I am FAR more confident that I will be able to do a much better job thanks to you! I can't thank you enough for your generosity of time and advice and for your thoroughness. Knowledge is power 💪 😁
What a truly wonderful comment to make. Thank you so much for those kind words. You are the reason I do it. Please call on me anytime you like. I am always happy to help. Be well my friend.
@@yeeebayeeba4268 That is very kind of you to say. Very much appreciated. After you get all of this resolved, if you think I did a good job, then please pass me along to others who may also benefit from my services. That would be the best compliment you could possibly give me. You can be certain in the knowledge that I am always free and always happy to help.
@@GuysPestSolutions I truly appreciate the time you've taken, not only to respond, but respond with such sincerity. As per your request to see if they were the 'red' drywoods or not, they were indeed red. What had me concerned is that I have just recently decided to list the house for sale. This is turning into a nightmare.
@@GuysPestSolutions Of course. I'd be honored to send others your way. Your knowledge is not really a concern as I can tell by your videos, you have extensive experience and knowledge in the field. I'd take your advice without worry.
Interesting how you said most DIYers fail because they only do a light spray outside the perimeter of their homes. Meanwhile my neighbors pest control does an even lighter spray before jumping on his van and going to the next property. Definitely reminds me why I rather do things myself to make sure they're done with care and quality since it's for my house and not just another clients
Some of the pros don't understand that there are bugs that breed where the foundation or slab meets the ground, so you need to get the pesticide into that area really well. Also, how many bugs do you see walking across the top of the grass? They are generally traveling on the dirt, which is below the grass, gravel, mulch, and so forth. Unless you just have bare dirt from the house about 3 feet out, then you need to get the pesticide down to where the bugs are actually located, or they will be crawling under it. A light spray on the building is fine, but it won't work well on the ground. If you stop and think about it, isn't this just common sense? You can't help but wonder how a licensed pest controller is not aware of this. You are right though. I see it all the time. I have even watched videos on it, and it just leaves me scratching my head. This is one of those things that is easy to do yourself. You will do it better and it will save you a lot of money. Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.
Thank you for your time & talent Guy. As a recent SoFlo widow, I'm obsessed about finding "smart" ways to preserve what I have & cut the budget - Pretty sure I've got the little buggers and I ALMOST called a few companies to come out... but then stumbled upon your videos... I watched a few of them, so I think I'm gonna be set. Time for me to get to work! Again, a gracious thanks for your effort & sharing your expertise!
I am so sorry that you lost your husband. I cannot imagine how difficult this time must be for you. The last thing you need is to be dealing with any sort of infestation. I would be more than happy to assist you. You are commenting on my drywood termite video. Does that mean you are certain that this is the pest that you are dealing with? The first step with pest control is to make sure that we are going after the right species. Would you mind sharing with me what you are seeing? With a bit more information, I can probably save you some time and money. I will certainly do my best to make this as easy as possible for you. Again, I am so sorry for your loss. Be well Kim.
Thank you so much. You really didn't need to do that. My mission it to help folks who are out of work. It's all about making this affordable for you. I really do appreciate what you did, but please take care of yourself first. I hope that you get back on your feet soon. I have been there and I know how it is. Be well my friend.
Yes. I have seen many people get infested with drywood termites, German cockroaches, and even bedbugs, because they brought used furniture into their homes. You can inspect solid wood furniture fairly easily, but it is much more difficult to inspect upholstered furniture. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I appreciate your expertise and videos. I would like to ask how do i get rid of dry wood termites discovered yesterday in my unfinished basement beams. A few beams are hollow and a few window sills shows holes and frass. I appreciate your direct response. Thank you
I’m so sorry that you are having this problem and I'm sorry for the delay in responding. I am on vacation at the moment, and I am on a cruise, so I don't always have internet and often I am doing vacation stuff. My wife and I have not had a vacation in over 13 years, so it was time. I will be home on June 11, so I can answer any additional questions you may have at that time. Are you sure that these guys are drywood termites. It takes a very long time for drywood termites to do a lot of damage, so make sure that you have the species correctly identified. If these are drywood termites, then it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html Attachments area
@@GuysPestSolutions wow Thank you so much Sir. Sorry to interrupt your vacation. Sounds like it’s well deserved for you both. I appreciate your time and details in your response. Of course I’m not happy that I can’t wave a magic wand and get these critters out of my house. So far only evidence is the he window sills in front of my house directly facing my garden bed. I thought they were carpenter bees. Treated with a Home Depot product and they went away a few weeks, now seeing frass. I had a termite inspection which was included in my new signup for pest control. And he told me they are termites and also pointed out that the unfinished basement boards are infested. We did locate the crack in foundation at back of the house which directly leads to those support boards. I am planning to do the every 60 day treatment you introduced to keep them out of the house, I just wasn’t sure how to get them out the boards without paying the hefty price. Especially since they may return after. You scared me about the attic. 🫣
@@GuysPestSolutions Also wanted to say that the basement wood has been unfinished since the house was built in 2015. I guess I will start by asking my neighbors if they are experiencing this. We all have a mini forest behind our homes .
@@MsLatoyanelson I'm taking another vacation from my vacation for a few minutes. Lol. I just want to make sure that the frass you are seeing is from drywood termites. I would be a really bad pest controller if I didn't make sure that you are treating the correct species. I would love it if you could send me a photo of the frass. If this is drywood termites, then the frass should reappear every time you remove it. Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and use that same technique to photograph the frass. You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I will have a look at them when I get home. Don't worry. If these are drywood termites, they are very slow eaters and it take years for them to do significant damage, so you do have the luxury of time. Drywood termites are very different than subterranean termites. Drywood termites attack from the air, so cracks in the foundation and stuff like that doesn't matter with them. Subterranean termites attack from the ground and so you need to treat them in the ground. You only fumigate for drywood termites and not subterranean termites. So, eliminating subterranean termites is usually something you can do yourself for under $100. Do you see what I'm saying? I don't want to send you down the fumigation path that costs a lot of money, if you have a problem that you can treat for a fraction of the cost. Since you have some time, let's make 100% sure that we identify the species correctly. If you do need to fumigate, then I will show you how to get the best possible price. I promise that I know what I am doing, and I will take very good care of you. When you send the photos, please remind me who you are. I get a lot of email and most of it is about termites this time of the year because it is swarming season. So, I want to make sure I know it's you. Just give me you RUclips name. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to photograph a bug: ruclips.net/video/I8qd63hX6y8/видео.html
Hi Guy! Finally watched your video and read your request to post here before using your email. This is excellent and I will do this absolutely. Thank you!
Smart decision. If you live in an area where drywood termites are present, then you only have three choices. Do the treatment in this video, move, or let your home get eaten by termites. It's pretty much that simple. I wish more people would watch this video. As far as I know, this is the only one that shows how to prevent drywood termites, but there are not a lot of folks watching it. I find that somewhat surprising because drywood termites are a huge problem in warm areas of the country. So, please pass this along to anyone you know who may also have the same problem. Thanks. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy, what if I have weed barrier under rocks around the exterior bottom wall of my house? Would I have to move that out of the way to spray 18 in. to 2 feet of the ground?
@@JohnSmith-jf3pj If you used a weed barrier that is designed for this purpose, those are made so that water will flow through them. Therefore, pesticides will flow through them as well. However, if that weed barrier is simply a polyethylene plastic, then the pesticides are not going to penetrate through it. Don't worry though. It doesn't matter for drywood termites because they do not travel underground, so there would be no reason to disturb the barrier. However, if you wish to treat or prevent subterranean termites by using the granules that are depicted in my DIY Termite Treatment video, then you would need to remove polyethylene plastic before applying the granules. I always recommend doing both the drywood termite treatment and the subterranean treatment, if you live in an area where drywood termites are prevalent. That is because subterranean termites also live in areas where there are drywood termites and some of those subterranean termites may even be Formosan. Formosan termites are really bad. In fact, they are often referred to as “super termites.” That is because, unlike other species of termites, these guys are ferocious eaters and can do a lot of damage in a very short period of time. If you apply the granules around your home, then that will prevent them from literally eating you out of house and home. I will provide a link to that video below. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. DIY Termite Treatment with granules video: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
It does not matter how fast the product dries. You can apply it any time you like. Just make sure that you apply it at least 2 hours before it rains. Days when rain is not in the forecast are always best. After it dries it will not get washed away by the rain, but I can get washed away if it is still wet. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi, Guy. Thanks a bunch for the wonderfully informative videos. What products can a Southern California homeowner use to prevent drywood termites? Both Taurus SC and Talstar P can't be shipped to CA consumers. We have noticed one or two swarmers recently near light fixtures outside our new construction home and would like to do everything we can to protect it. Thank you!
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them will attack your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. That means, if you have seen swarmers, they may be inside already. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as the house was there. So, you cannot rule out that you have an existing infestation in the early stages. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. You may not know for some time, so just keep an eye out for frass. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money, should the need arise. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Since you have a new home, then you are wise to begin doing it right now. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a new video on how to do that more efficiently and I will place a link below. For drywood termites, you do not need to treat the yard. Just the house. You can obtain the Bifen IT or Bifen XTS from domyown.com. I will give you links to both products. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Bifen IT: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html Bifen XTS: www.domyown.com/bifen-xts-p-1236.html
If located a drywood series of kick outs, suggest a spot treatment please, great video on prevention will incorporate but have an active swarmer being attracted to the frog tank black light at night.
First, make sure that these are actually drywood and not subterranean. I will give you a link to my video on how to identify termite species. If you confirm that they are drywood, then there is information that you need to know. Please get back to me if they are subterranean. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: How to Treat a Drywood Termite Infestation Yourself. A MUST see if you have Drywood termites.
You are very welcome. I appreciate your kind comment. Thank you so much for watching. Please let me know if you have any questions. I am always here to help.
@@GuysPestSolutions hi. I got a question. I discovered that my Vinyl siding has tiny weep holes on the bottom, I guess it’s for condensation. Can termites enter through them?
@@joseleon7444 Most likely they can. It would depend upon the size of the holes. The bigger question is, "Can they access any wood that way?" I would not take chances, so I would treat it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions the holes are tiny holes underneath it, I once saw a “little butt” sticking out of one and I tried to grab it with my two fingers and it went inside the hole. 🤔. Guy- is this bad that I cover them, aren’t they for condensation drainage???
How you treat the attic will depend on the target pest. For example, you would treat drywood termites much differently than you would spiders. If you are talking about drywood termites, then I do cover treating attics in my video on how to treat drywood termites yourself. I will place a link below for you. That being said, you should know that treating drywood termites yourself is not going to be effective. Even the best pest controllers cannot pull it off. The only sure way to get rid of drywood termites is to fumigate. You should only spot treat yourself if you cannot afford to fumigate. If you want the best price for fumigation, then watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. I will give you a link for that as well. You should also know that, if you fumigate, the gas they use has no residual properties at all, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. However, you can do a preventive treatment every two or three months. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. In the video I recommend three months, but doing it every two months is a lot safer. The pesticide does last three months, but it may not be quite as effective in the last 30 days. So, I treat my house every two months now. Remember, if you have drywood termites, your neighbors do as well. They swarm for several months every year, so you will get reinfested if you don't do the preventive treatment. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
I do have a video on that and I will give you a link to it, but it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hey, Guy - hope all is well with you! Thank you for putting up your videos here in RUclips and helping us folks in dealing with termite problems - this is life-saving information! I have been researching about Termidor dust and other products like it...they seem versatile and was wondering if you recommend it, and can do a video on it. Are they a good option to defeat a colony?
I have never used Terminator Dust, so I can't really say if it's any better than using Termidor foam. What I can tell you though is that there is no product that is going to effectively treat drywood termites. The dust may be as good or even better then the foam, but the problem is trying to find the galleries. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself, but it is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries. It is way better than doing nothing, but it will not end the infestation. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Years ago I moved into an old dry wood termite infested apt building with my then girlfriend (now wife). I brought a vintage wood framed couch with me. When we moved out over the next year we threw away her furniture as it was hollow and falling apart or we saw active kickout holes with frass. My couch seemed fine but a few years later I found a tiny hollow sounding spot with new frass. I disassembled the wood frame and made a heat treatment tent by covering it with an old blanket and blowing a space heater into an opening in the tented area for over an hour. I measured the temperature on the far side opposite the heater with a meat thermometer. It did the job. It took a while as I did each piece separately. The trick is to blow the space heater into a small igloo like door and to open a smaller vent opposite to exhaust some air to get a flow through the "tent" of blankets. You can't just encapsulate the heater as they all have overheat shut-off sensors. You need a little flow but not too much to build up the temperature for the required duration. The couch is still with us over 20 years later.
I recently had my roof redone and the roofer installed 2 new roof vents. Previously we had two and now we have four total, . I'm concerned that adding the new vents will make us even more susceptible to getting termites. Do you think it would be best to keep the number of roof vents to a minimum? I'm thinking about sealing off the two new vents or removing them completely.
You are correct that drywood termites can sometimes get into roof vents. It is going to depend on how the roof vent is constructed. If the vent features a fine enough screen around the inlet opening, and there are no gaps around it, then everything should be okay. However, if there is no screen or if the mesh on the screen is too wide, then that would be a fairly easy way for the drywood termites to enter the attic. Unfortunately, you cannot always just remove the roof vents or cover them. Your attic needs a certain amount of air flow or you are going to run into moisture problems up there. There are basically two ways to address this issue and still keep the roof vents in place. The first thing you want to do is go on the roof and check to see if it has screening that is fine enough to keep out drywood termites. If it does, then you are already good to go. If not, then you can see if you can engineer a way to install a fine screen around the openings. The other thing that you should do, even if there is a fine screen around it, is to treat it with a pesticide every 60 days. You watched my video on how to prevent drywood termites. I have another video on how to treat the exterior of your house. This is a very similar video, except I also show you how to do it with a hose end sprayer. Actually, that video will show you how to use both a tank sprayer and a hose end sprayer. The part with the hose end sprayer is near the end of the video. The hose end sprayer can reach heights as high as 25 ft off the ground, depending upon water pressure. So, a lot of the time, you can pretty much just spray the vents from the ground. This is not always the case, but you may just get lucky. To do this, you need to use a different product though. to use a hose end sprayer, you must use Bifen XTS. The reason for that is the other products are not going to get picked up correctly in the sprayer. The Bifen XTS is a wonderful product, and that is really all you will need to do the exterior of your house. It does not last as long as Taurus SC, so you need to do it every 60 days, but if you do your entire house with a hose and sprayer, it is way faster. You are not supposed to do it that way because it exceeds label recommendations for the amount of pesticide you are supposed to apply, but I can tell you that it will not harm you or the environment. In fact, you may experience less overspray. I always treat my entire yard for bugs with the hose end sprayer, and since I already have it in my hand, I just go ahead and do the house as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to treat your yard with a hose and sprayer. (I included this, just in case you may want to consider treating your yard as well. It is a very good idea to stop other pests.): ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
You are very welcome. It is always my pleasure to help. I am sorry that it took so long to get this done. I just had a lot on my plate for the last few months and I didn't want to do a rush job on it. It felt very good to get it finished and the responses have been so gratifying. I really do appreciate your kind comment. As always, I am here if you need me.
The first thing you need to do is decide if you are going to replace the floors or not. If you are not going to replace the floors, then shoot a fipronil foam, like FiPro or Termidor Foam into each of the kick out or exit holes for about 5 seconds or until the foam is coming back out at you. This should kill the gallery, but it is always better if you do a full treatment. The problem with doing the full treatment though, is that you need to drill holes. So, if you are not going to replace the floors then it is best not to drill holes. If you are going to replace the floors, then simply drill a tiny hole that is wide enough for the applicator tip to get in, every 4 inches along the infested area. Drill the holes about half way through the wood. Shoot the foam into each hole for 5 seconds, or until it is coming back out at you, or coming out the other holes that you drilled. Each hole should have foam either going into or out of it. That being said, make sure that these are drywood termites and not subterranean termites. If you are not sure, then watch my video on how to identify termite species. If you are sure that they are drywood termites, then it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. The video you watched will show you a way that works great to prevent drywood termites, but I now have a faster way to do it and I will place a link below for it. You can do it with a hose end sprayer and it's a lot faster, but you need to use a different product. The hose end sprayer treatment method is near the end of the video. I use the hose end sprayer to treat around windows, doors, soffits, fascia boards, and so forth. It's a huge time saver, but you need to do it every 60 days. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. Just the house): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
No. The Spectracide foam is not a good choice because it is a fast kill product and that is not what you want. Do it yourselfers like that fast kill stuff because they think it's working well, and that is why companies market it to homeowners, but the pros know that you want to kill termites slowly. The idea is that you want to take out the queen, so you need a slow kill product that will give the termites time to spread the pesticide around to all the termites, including the queen. So, I recommend that you buy either FiPro or Termidor Foam. I like FiPro the best, but they will not ship it to some states. I will give you the links. Be well my friend. FiPro: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
@@GuysPestSolutionsreally a sound solution for dry wood termites. Most pest control guys assuring me that treating walls windows doors and ground prevent dry wood termites. But the reality is it could get into fascia eaves soffit etc
@@Dandanakka82 You are correct. In fact, it is very common for drywood termites to enter through the eaves. The reason the pest controllers will not tell you that is because they do not want to treat above their heads. When you spray the eaves you are going to get hit with some overspray. That is no big deal for you because you are only doing it every 60 to 90 days, so you will have very little exposure to the products. When you are finished, you can take a shower and you will be just fine. Pest controllers do this all day, every day, and they are concerned about long term exposure to pesticides. If they treated eaves all day long they would be covered in pesticide every day for years. Pesticides are not all that hazardous, but you wouldn't want to be covered in laundry detergent all day long for years either. So, for you, it's perfectly safe, but for them... Well, who knows? I have never met a pest controller that has gotten sick from pesticides, but it is a concern for them. So, most companies do not allow their applicators to treat above their heads. Now you know the truth. Be well my friend.
I've found damage in my fascia board around my house. (Southern calif. Coastal area) I dug out the damage, and usually spray some termite stuff, then fill the void with bondo or wood putty. (sometimes it's 3 feet in length!) Is this correct? Or are the termites still there? (Inside the wood) thanks!
I responded to a couple of your other comments that you attached to different videos of mine. Please let me know if you did not receive those responses from me and I will make them again. Also, if you have any questions about any of the advice I gave you, please do not hesitate to ask. I am always happy to help. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, this channel is a blessing for so many, thank you for what you are doing. I live in Florida too on the west coast and would like to know if I can spray for drywood termites over gravel landscape that borders around my home. The boarder is less than 2 feet wide and then there is large decorate stone that separates the gravel from the grass. Will the chemicals seep though the gravel into the soil, or should I just spray outside the gravel area where the grass meets the bricks 2 feet away from the home? Also, my manufactured home has skirting around the base of the home/crawlspace, it has tiny air-slits to vent the crawlspace. Should I spray the skirting too? Thanks again Guy.
The short answer is yes. You can go ahead and spray the pesticide over your gravel landscape and anything else you'd like. Modern day pesticides are designed to stay where you put them and they will not seep down into the ground very far. After they dry, they cannot be washed away. You should definitely spray all the skirting. Not only will this prevent drywood termites, but it will stop a whole lot of other bugs as well. Soak the area really well where the skirt meets the ground. Doing this has nothing to do with drywood termites, but it will help to prevent a lot of other bugs from getting in. Since you are spraying it anyway, you may as well do it right and go after the other pests as well. If you have any reservations about using pesticides, then please have a look at my video that talks about how dangerous it really is to use pesticides. I think you will find it to be a real eye opener. I will give you a link. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video about the truth regarding the use of pesticides: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions: Thank you so much Guy. I always wear a respirator etc., as my brother and I ran a family law firm and we specialized in toxic torts. Thank you again for all you do. Bless you.
Great video! I just bought a new construction in Houston. I've only been here two weeks and I noticed what looks like worker drywood termites underneath the cabinets. I have a year warranty of a Pest company's work on termite control. A technician came out and said they don't handle drywood termites. I'm wondering if I should spray in the attic as well
I am so sorry that you're having this problem. By any chance did the technician that came out to visit with you check to make sure that these are actually drywood termites? If not, then I would recommend that you get a free pest control inspection and find out exactly what the species is. A good clue that you have drywood termites is if you start to see something on your floor or countertops that looks a bit like sawdust. This material is called frass and drywood termites are the only species of termite that produce it. If you have not seen any frass around, then these may not be drywood termites. It is important to get the species correctly identified because the treatment for drywood termites is totally different than the treatment for subterranean termites. After you are certain that these are drywood termites, then you should know that the only way to be sure that you get rid of them is if you tent the entire house and fumigate. You can do things like spot treat, and I do have a video on how to do that, but spot treating for drywood termites is kind of like playing whack a mole. Just when you think you have found all the galleries, then another one crops up someplace. Even the best pest controllers are going to miss galleries. The galleries that you miss are going to continue destroying your home and they will continue to emit swarmers that will establish new galleries throughout your home. Oftentimes galleries are located inside your walls where you cannot detect them. It is very common for drywood termites to enter through the eaves and fascia boards that's around your home and then make their way into the attic and often down into the walls as well. Also, they often enter around windows and doors too. It is common to see them establish galleries in cabinetry and furniture as well. You already watched my video on how to prevent a drywood termite infestation and you must perform your first treatment a few days before you fumigate the house. This way you will be protected the moment the tent comes down. The truth is that fumigation has no residual action and so you can get re-infested literally the moment the tent comes down. The treatment I outlined in the video that you watched will prevent this. If you cannot afford to get the house fumigated, then spot treating is probably your most logical option. You can farm this out to a pest control company, but the truth is you can probably do a better job yourself. I will provide you with a link to my video on how to do this. In answer to your question, yes, you must treat the attic. My video explains exactly how to carry out the entire treatment process. I hope that helps. Please feel free to ask me all the questions you like. Be well my friend. Video on how to spot treat for drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hi Guy, Thanks for the indepth reply. I got a second opinion from a different technician, as the first one seemed to not know what he was doing. The second technician said he believes what I have are Spring Tails. I'm still on the fence on whether to belive it or not so I may get a third opinion. It would be a huge relief if this is the case.
@@jonathanvazquez3446 Springtails do look a little like termites, but if you can catch one, then look at it under a magnifying glass. A springtail will have a forked tail, called a furculum, but termites do not have this appendage. Also, termites cannot be exposed to the air or they will die, so you never get to see them, unless they are swarming. Springtails do not have this limitation, so you can see them moving around in the open. Springtails are smaller than termites too. Most of the time, springtails do not survive in the home for long and just die on their own without requiring treatment. However, indoor infestations are possible. Often times you will find them where there is water in the home, like bathrooms and kitchens. To get rid of them, remove the water source and spray them with a pyrethrin. If you have potted plants, you may find them there as well. You can probably just spray them with Raid Flying Insect Killer, but if that does not do the job, then you can go with a professional product like Spectre PS. I will give you a link below. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. www.solutionsstores.com/spectre-ps
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks again Guy. It's hard to distinguish the two. The drywood worker termite looks very similar to the type of spring tail I may have. I do see these little guys near the windows at the front of the house where I have some small shrubs as well as near water sources like kitchen and bathroom cabinets. However, I also see them in the attic on the beams. I usually only ever see 2 or 3 at a time in an area.
@@jonathanvazquez3446 Trust me. You never get to see termite workers at all, unless you dig into the wood. Termite workers will not come out in the open air on their own. So, if you are seeing these guys walking around, then it is unlikely that they are termites. I'll bet, if you look at one close up, you will see that forked tail. Any pest controller should be able to tell the difference between drywood termites and springtails instantly. To you they look alike, but to us they look different. I'm guessing that the second pest controller identified them correctly right off. If you look at one under a magnifying glass you will spot that forked tail immediately. If you don't see that forked tail, then you need to get yet a third opinion. Again, just based on the fact that you are actually seeing these guys tells me that I should bet on them being springtails. I'm not sure why they would be in your attic, but I have seen all sorts of unusual things in this business. If they are drywood termites, then you should be seeing frass in the attic.
Hi Guy, I'm in Florida as well and have both subterranean and drywood. For the Subs I found mud tubes in the garage coming in from both sides and I removed them physically. They or drywoods have hollowed out he wood frame around the garage. They have also taken out a small palm tree in a garden area as well as I found a mud tube going up most of the length of a big Palm Tree. Any recommendation for that area or the big Palm? I have found drywoods in 2 places inside attic and 2 places so far on roof overhang in limited areas. 1) For the Subs, you seem to recommend the trenching (and not bait stations?). Do you recommend any injections into walls and, if so, can this be easily done by a novice? Will the trenched poison be toxic to cats,etc. after drying? For a situation like mine with recent evidence of subs inside, would you still also say to give the "Bio Advanced" granules a chance instead of trenches? If so, with granules, how often would you then repeat that treatment or then move to quarterly sprays as a preventative? I have about 8 inch brick pavers on the ground around foundation walls of much of house. Do I have to move all of those first if trenching or just leave. What about the driveway/ garage front area? I also have a screened patio which I believe you said I could continue to trench around. I have an outside patio area with patio stones and/or pavers on some areas there. What to do there? Is it Ok to just trench or granules on outside perimeter of that as well? 2) What about the drywoods in my situation? Is tent fumigation the only option likely to worK? ( I prefer not if possible). Guy, thanks so much for this offering.
It sounds like you have a lot going on there. I am so sorry that you're going through this. Let's try to unpack this one issue at a time. Let's put the drywood termites on the back burner for a little bit. These guys are very slow eaters, and it takes a long time for them to do significant damage. Also, you need to address the subterranean termites before you treat the drywood termites. There is a very lengthy explanation for that, but please take my word for it that there is an order of treatment to follow with this stuff. Don't worry. We will be addressing the drywood termite issue. The primary goal is to protect your home. In Florida, you may encounter Formosan termites. I would not be a bit surprised if this is the species you have. I say that because of the palm tree. Formosan termites are the only species that eats live wood. These guys are very aggressive eaters, so if you are dealing with this species, then that needs to be your priority. I cannot say for sure this is the species that you have, but it sure does sound like them. In any case, the first thing you need to do is to trench around your entire house and both sides of the driveway. I have a video on how to treat Formosan termites, and I will give you a link to it. I think it is reasonable to assume that the colony that is infesting your house is the same colony that is attacking the tree. Therefore, if you can take out the colony, that will end the problem with both the tree and the house. Trenching the house is the best way to go about doing this. There is a treatment that you can do for the tree as well, but right now I suggest that you focus on saving your house. Do not waste your time with bait stations. They are Hail Mary Pass at best for a non-aggressive species, and pretty much do not work at all for Formosan termites. If you have Formosan termites, then the video will explain what you need to do with regard to treating inside the house. That may be nothing in your case because you will be fumigating. After the trenching is finished, and the pesticide has dried, it is safe enough for children to play on. So, this will not be a problem for your pets. The termite granules do not work for Formosan termites or drywood termites. Since there is a good possibility that you do have Formosan termites, I would not recommend using the granules. If you have pavers that are against the house, you can usually trench just to the outside of them. Trenching directly against the house is always the best way to do it, but you can usually get away with trenching a little bit away from the foundation or the slab. You do need to trench on both sides of the driveway, and you do need to trench around the patio. You should have a continuous trench from the street, going along the driveway, all around the house, and then back to the street again on the other side of the driveway. I'm afraid that the drywood termites will require fumigation. I will explain all of that to you after you get finished treating the subterranean termites. Fumigation does not work for subterranean termites because they will simply reinfest the house from the ground. However, fumigation is going to help you if these are Formosan termites because those guys build satellite colonies in your walls that we call cartons. Normally, we remove these cartons by removing the drywall. However, if you fumigate, then that should kill off those cartons without removing any drywall. So, for now, just focus on getting the trench done. I'm going to also give you a link to my video on how to trench for subterranean termites. It is exactly the same information as trenching for Formosan termite, except that the video for treating subterranean termites is a bit more in-depth and better explained than the trenching part of the video in the Formosan termite video. I think it would serve you well to watch both videos. Please let me know when you have the trenching finished, and I will explain how to get the best price possible on the fumigation. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thankyou Guy, much appreciated! I don't know why none of the companies contacted mentioned the Formosan termites except in their contracts where they excluded any guarantee on them?? I have ordered the Taurus SC but it will take until next week to arrive (after the weekend). I'm wondering how rain will affect the application? Will the termiticide effect the roots of plants? Also, if you get time, can you explain how to save the big Palm Tree that has signs of termite infestation and I saw many termites a year ago in the mulched garden area around the tree.? Also wondering if I should use this wait time to contact companies for the tenting? Is there any recommendations for toxicity reduction to humans after the fumigation? Thanks again for this awesome service
@@MrYousurf Many pest control companies don't waste time identifying the species. Only the really good ones do that. It's easier just to let your house get destroyed and exclude Formosan termites in the contract. It's a shame because it is not hard to identify the species. Rain will not bother the treatment after you close up the trench. I would not treat in the rain. Taurus SC will not bother the plants. The treatment for trees is below. Please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It can save you a lot of money on the fumigation. You can get pricing now if you wish, but don't let them talk you into treating until you are sure that the subterranean termites are gone. If they tell you that it doesn't matter, don't believe them. They have a financial incentive. I don't. So, I will give it to you straight. There are very good reasons not to fumigate until the subs are gone. The most important recommendation I can give about fumigation is to not trust them when they tell you that you can move back into the house. There are accidents every year because people go back in too soon. Wait another 3 to 5 days after they tell you that it's safe. They measure the gas level, but it's not always accurate. Also, bag all the mattresses in bed bug bags. You can get them from Amazon. The gas can linger in mattresses. If they miss it, then... Well, you can imagine what happens then. It doesn't always end well. The good news is that there is an agent in the gas that is put there to make you sick if the gas is not completely gone. They do that so you will leave if the gas is not gone. It is possible to sleep through it though, so err on the side of caution. This is a good time to take a vacation. If you don't have a security system, buy some Blink cameras from Amazon and put them around the house. Break-ins are common with tented houses. The cameras will send an alert to your cell phone. They may not like electrical stuff running during the fumigation, but you can turn on the system remotely the day after the fumigation is done. It is very easy to arm and disarm the system. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. TREES THAT ARE ALIVE This is something of a Hair Mary Pass, but you can try drilling holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the tree that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the tree. You want to use a drill bit that is at least 12 inches long and at least 1/2 inch wide. The longer the better. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. You can also drill some holes down into the ground at a 90-degree angle, that are about 6 inches apart and fill them up with the Taurus SC as well. DEAD TREES Drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the tree that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the tree. You want to use a drill bit that is at least 12 inches long and at least 1/2 inch wide. The longer the better. Also drill holes right into the tree, a couple of inches above the dirt. You want them about 6 inches apart around the entire tree. Drill these holes in a downward angle toward the center of the tree. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. You can also drill some holes down into the ground at a 90-degree angle, that are about 6 inches apart and fill them up with the Taurus SC as well. There is a good chance that the termites will contact the Taurus SC and bring it back to the colony and share it with the other termites. This will kill the entire colony. If the colony is dead, then the termites will not be alive to attack your house. After the colony is dead, then remove the tree.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks Guy, A few questions... How do I know the Formosans are gone? I'm not sure I have any living in the house as they came into the garage on both sides of the garage door and did some tubes in that area and the tubes were destroyed and termites have not rebuilt after a month. I thought part of the reason for tenting was to kill the formosans if their were any? If not, might it work to have them do an attic treatment and spot treat the few areas on soffit outside for the drywoods? Three of the companies recommended doing that (and I would have guarantee with that for retreatment if necessary). Might be worth a try? (I may only be in the house for another year or so). I know the tenting is the only sure way to get rid of them. On the trenching, I have so many walkways, porches, patios, and hedges, etc. that I wonder if the main point for me would be to get the continuous barrier around the house (and driveway) even if it is away from the house in some of those areas? In that case should I then do the preventative Taurus SC treatments next to the foundation where the trenching did not get too close, at the same time as the trenching? Also, how long after trenching should I start the preventative 3 month cycle of spraying foundation? Thank you so much Guy
Hi Guy,, I wonder if you have seen this from University of Florida, ruclips.net/video/nQKWNDs8NhM/видео.html, where he recommends using above ground bait stations from Sentricon, (using currently Noviflumuron, and previously, hexaflumuron), which he says are the best way to treat asian and formosan termites in trees and houses? Any comments?
Hello Guy, the pesticides you recommend are unfortunately not sold in California. I was wondering if you have any product recommendations for me to buy here in California that I can use to follow your steps in this video. Thank you for the helpful videos. Be well.
You can buy whatever pesticide you like if you order it from domyown.com. Shhhhhh. Don't tell. They do ship to California. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thanks for your time and providing a detailed explanation. I have couple of question - I have high ceiling and found dry wood termite traces (powder on the floor) I called termite company, they put a hole and sprayed TERRO T1901-6. They are not 100% sure that they have correctly located source of termite place. They informed me that if it comes again they have to do fumigation. From your video you mentioned about outside of the house? can i use the same for inside of the house? Or is there any alternative to do it from inside?
First off, the company you hired used the wrong product and did not apply it correctly. Also, if these are actually drywood termites, then you do need to fumigate because they are not limited to just the ceiling. They may be in the walls and roof structure as well. Before you fumigate though, please make sure that these are actually drywood termites and not a different species. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. If they are drywood termites, then please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It can save you a lot of money. The treatment in the video you watched is for preventing drywood termites and it will not treat an existing infestation. If you do have drywood termites, then so do your neighbors. The gas they use to fumigate has no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested immediately after the tent comes down. Therefore, you need to begin the preventive treatment before the tent goes up and you need to do it every 60 days. You can do it every 90 days, but more often is better. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on hiring a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Guy, I'll tell you, I'm feeling a little bit pessimistic about stopping dry wood termites. How does spraying stop them from entering the large crack where the starter course shingle lays on the drip edge? From there, they not only have access to the unsprayed reverse side of the fascia and soffit (assuming they are wood) but also the wood 2x8 sub-fascia, rafter tails, wall top plate, and the rest of the attic, etc. And what about the attic vents in the soffit? These only have a screen to stop fly and wasp sized insects. This seems like a losing war. But you are a treasure of information. Thank you.
That is a great question. When drywood termites land on a surface that was treated with a pesticide, death will occur within a few hours, which is not enough time for them to establish a gallery. They generally need to land before entering any of the cracks and crevices along the roof line or anywhere else on the building. If you have really large openings, it would be a good idea to seal them up. I like to use Stuf-Fit. This is basically a copper mesh product that you can stuff into large openings. It is available from Amazon or domyown.com. Smaller openings should be sealed with and exterior caulk. Naturally, it is almost impossible to seal all the openings, but if you get the really big ones, then the termites will have no choice but to land before they enter, and that will be the kiss of death for them. If you want to be absolutely certain that they are going to die, then you may want to treat every 60 days, instead of every 90 days. They claim that the pesticides are good for 90 days, but obviously they are not as good in the last 30 days as they are in the first 30 days, so I treat my house every 60 days. I hope that answers your question. Be well my friend.
I’m living in Los Angeles, California. I wants to use Taurus SC and Talstar to treat subterranean. Would you please show me where I can buy them? Thank you very much.
Do not use Talstar P for termites. Stick with the Taurus SC. I gave you a link to it and a link to my video on how to trench correctly. Make sure that these are subterranean and not drywood. You have both where you are. Be well Tuan. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for taking your time to respond and helping me about knowing those pesticides and how to use them. I really like and learn a lot of your clips. Thank you very much.
Hi Guy, thanks so much for the video on Drywood termites. I plan on using the information to do the exterior of my house. Can these two pesticides be purchased by Amazon or any other online store? Also, if I have seen signs of possible Drywood termites in the trusses of my attic, will this process on the outside of the building prevent further possible infestation? Thanks, Mike
I in CA have drywall termites in and out of my home too. Many ways to do, either spot treats, fumigation, or/and Bora-Care for prevention on exposed wood such as attic space. I have been seeing termite company guys this week and next for inspection, treatment options, and prices. Guy gave me a lot of tips on his emails.
Yes, the pesticides can be purchased from Amazon. However, I find that they are somewhat less expensive if you buy them from Solutions Pest and Lawn. The only thing is that Solutions may not ship to certain states, while Amazon may. California is a good example. Since most pesticides are illegal for non-licensed people to purchase, Solutions will not ship there. However, I am told that Amazon often will. Unfortunately, the preventive treatment for drywood termites will do nothing to eradicate or even control a drywood infestation that already exists. It will only stop more drywood termites from entering from the outside. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the truth is that the only surefire way to completely eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to totally tent the entire house and fumigate it with a gas. Now, not everybody can afford to do this because it is quite expensive. The other way to go after these guys is to do spot treatments. The spot treatments are very effective on galleries that you have located, but the problem is finding the galleries. I have a video on how to do this type of spot treatment and how to find the galleries. I will place a link below for you. The thing you should be aware of though is that even the best pest controller in the business cannot guarantee that they will find all the galleries. So, it is not likely that you will either. Therefore, spot treating for drywood termites is kind of like playing whack a mole. No sooner do you treat one gallery than you find another one weeks or months later. This can be an ongoing process that literally never ends. If you watch my video on spot treating drywood termites, then you will get an idea of what I'm talking about. I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Be well Mike. How to treat drywood termites yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html Solutions Pest and Lawn: DIY Pest Control | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com)
Hi Guy, do you know which pesticides are good substitutes for Taurus SC and Talstar P that I could pick up at home depot? The website says they dont ship to California.
You can purchase all the products from domyown.com. They have great prices, and shipping is always fast and free. Shhhhh. Don't tell anybody. Be well my friend.
I don't suppose there is any way to test the wood in my attic to see if it has already been treated with Bora-Care or similar product? Maybe a chem test on a small shaving of the wood?
Yes there is. You can buy a test solution that you put on the wood and it changes color if Bora-Care or other borate product is present. Sometimes you can use a black light too. The Bora-Care may glow under a black light. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Boron test kit: prginc.com/boron-indicator-test-solution-c-18_27/boron-indicator-test-solution-35-oz-p-27.html
If I want to spray my attic with a backpack blower do I need to turn off the Gas on my central heater? or what is the best way to trat the attic. I saw termite outside on my patio, but I want to do a full house treatment
Just to clarify, if you are talking about a backpack sprayer, like a garden variety sprayer, and you are applying a water-based product, such as Bora-Care, then there is no need to turn off your gas heater. However, if you are talking about a backpack fogger, then you definitely want to turn that unit off, especially if you are applying a petroleum-based pesticide.
All of that being said, just because you see a termite on the patio outside does not mean that you have an infestation. One termite, an infestation does not make. To estimate the probability that you have an infestation, I would need to have a look at the termite. If you did not dispose of the specimen, then I can have a look at it for you and let you know if it's a species that should be of concern. For example, you watched my video on drywood termites and if that guy was a drywood termite, then that may be cause for concern. However, if this was something like an eastern subterranean termite, then there is a good chance that there is nothing to worry about. If you can get a photo of it, then send it to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Always take the photo with the feet down and the back up. Get as close as you can to the termite, without getting the picture out of focus. If you no longer have the specimen, then have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where drywood termites are problem. If you live in the red area on the map, then you may have cause for concern. Still, all you know is that there are termites somewhere near your home, but you do not know the species. Most species are best treated or prevented from the outside of the building, so you would not want to treat your attic because it would be a waste of time. While drywood termites cannot be treated from the outside, they can be prevented from the outside. So, it is important to know what you saw and where you live. You may also want to do and inspection to see if you can locate any evidence of an infestation. In my video on how to identify termite species, I show you what mud tubes look like, what kick out holes look like, and what frass looks like. These are the things that you would look for to see if you have an infestation and what type of species you may be dealing with. You would want to inspect around the outside of the house for mud tubes going up the side. If you have a crawl space or unfinished basement, then you would want to inspect there for mud tubes, kick out holes, and frass. The same goes for the attic. If you do not see any of these things, then there is a good chance that you do not have an infestation. If that is the case, then I can tell you how to prevent all species of termites. Just get back to me and let me know what you find out. Most species of termites can be prevented for about $50 a year and about an hour of your time. Drywood termites can be prevented for about $10 a month and an hour of your time every two months.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
I have drywood termites in my front door (tent was done about 4.5 year ago and we do it about every 5 years anyway). Local 5 star rated (with thousands of reviews) pest control company quoted me $1200 for no tent option with a one year warranty where they will do the front door, attic and all around the home. I have two questions. 1) Would you recommend letting them do it or it is something I can DIY and 2) since it's only $1200 every 5 years (or $240 per year) for no tent wouldn't that be a better option then to be DIY for 5 years, risking health and buying and storing chemicals to DIY?
It sounds like the pest control company that gave you the estimate is planning to do some sort of spot treatment. $1,200 is pretty expensive for a spot treatment, so they may be planning to do something in addition to that as well. I have no idea what that would be, without looking at their estimate. If you like, you can send a copy of the estimate to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com, and I would be happy to have a look at it. That being said, it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. This is the reason you need to fumigate every 5 years. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. The pros cannot find all the galleries either when they do it. That is the reason spot treating is not a solution to the problem. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. So, the bottom line for you is that the treatment this pest control company is offering will probably help, but it is very doubtful that it will resolve the issue. You only get a one year guarantee, so they will charge you an annual fee to extend it. That fee will go on forever and it will never end the problem. So, your house will go on getting eaten during the entire time you are doing this. Regardless of what you decide, I would like to have a look at their estimate to see what they are offering. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites (Note that you do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. You only need to treat the house): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Sir, what do you suggest to treat and stop termites in the walls? I had mud tubes come thru the wall at the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling. What do you suggest that I so? I live alone and am almost your age so it's just me here to deal with this I was told there was holes in my exterior wall back there and I plan on hiring someone to remove the exterior wall board and replacing the damaged wooden framing, but I need to do something now to get a handle on this I'm sure... Thanks so much for all that you do in giving us hope that there may be a light at the end of the tunnel.
Since you are seeing mud tubes, I think it's safe to assume that this is a species of subterranean termites. You did not tell me where you live, but the fact that you are seeing the mud tubes near the ceiling is very concerning. I often see that with Formosan termites, and they are a very aggressive species. Those things can destroy a house in a matter of months. It sounds like you are not physically able to do a lot of manual labor, and the treatment for these guys would involve trenching around the entire house. You would need to dig a trench 6 in wide and 6 in deep around the entire building. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect that is something you would not be able to do. Normally, I would suggest that you watch my video on how to identify termites species and my video on how to treat Formosan termites, but in your case you would probably be well served to call several pest controllers and ask them for a free inspection. Prices can vary quite a bit in this industry, so the more estimates you get the better. The pest controller should be able to tell you if these guys are Formosan termites. Keep in mind that when you get estimates, you should not consider, under any circumstances, going with a baiting system like the Sentricon system. A lot of companies are going to try to sell you that, but it is not effective for Formosan termites. They're going to tell you that it is, but they are incorrect about that. Formosan termites will destroy your home before the bait stations are effective. The only treatment you should be interested in is trenching around the entire house. The initial cost may be higher, but it will actually save you money in the long run. Please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. Please note that Formosan termites only exist in certain areas of the US. If you live in the US, then please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. There's a map in that video that will show you where Formosan termites are a problem. If you live in the red or orange areas on the map, then there is a good chance this is what it is. Otherwise, you may just have a more common species of subterranean termites that is fairly easily treated. Also, keep in mind, that if these are Formosan termites, then an interior treatment should also be done as well. Many companies do not do the interior treatment and it will not be included in the estimate. So, if these are Formosan termites, make sure you ask the pest control companies what their plan is to look for "cartons" inside the home. Naturally, the estimates that include the interior treatment are going to be higher than the ones that do not. Still, Formosan termites have the ability to colonize in your home, and so you do need to treat them inside as well. A pest control company that does not offer this service, simply does not know what they are doing. I know this is a lot of information to take in, so please let me know if you have any questions. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
After viewing many of your videos about drywood termite & professional inspections, we have fumigated the home last week and it was LOTS of prep work. I have a few questions hoping your expertise can shed some light on. Thank you Sir in advance ! 1. the Talstar P & Taurus SC obviously spray onto painted fascia board & trim pieces, do they stay on the paint well? 2. any non-pesticide method such as repellent we can spray onto painted fascia board & trim pieces? This way it's even easier & less PPE needed. 3. drywood termites create small kickout holes in my fascia & trim, is that ok using caulk to patch them? removing fascia & trim is a lot of work and may create add'l damage in the process. 4. there are many PVC fascia & trim board available, would you recommend using PVC fascia & trim so this permanently solve termite & dry rot? I am afraid if drywood termite doesn't eat PVC fascia & trim, they will attack rafter tail directly which is even worse b/c I can't replace every single rafter with PVC.
I would be happy to answer those questions for you. The first thing you should know is that, since you already fumigated, you need to get going with doing the preventive treatment. I always recommend starting that before you do the fumigation because the gas has absolutely no residual action, and you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. For that reason, I wouldn't waste any time doing the preventive treatment. All modern-day pesticides pretty much stay right where you put them. The Talstar P and Taurus SC are no exceptions. If you like, I can tell you a faster way to do it though, but you need to do it every 60 days. You can use a hose end sprayer and probably treat your entire house in under 30 minutes. That is exactly what I do and it is super fast. The only thing is that you are not supposed to do it that way because you will exceed label recommendations for the amount of pesticide that you were supposed to apply. However, it will not harm you with the environment. In fact, doing it this way creates a lot less overspray that can get on you. To use the hose end sprayer, you need to use a different product entirely. I have a video on how to do that, and I will give you a link to it. The new product is Bifen XTS. It has the same active ingredient as Talstar P, but it is more concentrated and has a very watery viscosity, which allows it to work well in hose end sprayers. The sprayer that I recommend has a stream setting on it that makes it perfect for treating places on your home that are too high to reach. The sprayer can reach heights up to 25 ft, depending upon water pressure. After this product is applied, you will not see it on the house. The only place you are likely to see it, is if you get it on Windows. It kind of makes them look dirty, but it causes no harm. In fact, having it on the windows helps to prevent drywood termites from entering. So, even though it does make my windows look a little dirty, I can live with that, but I cannot live with drywood termites. The video that I'm going to share with you will show you how to do this with both the tank sprayer and a hose end sprayer. The hose end sprayer application is near the end of the video. Do not be afraid of applying too much pesticide. When I treat my house, it is running off the fascia boards and soffits like rain. You literally cannot overkill with this stuff. The Bifen XTS may seem quite expensive to you, but keep in mind that it gets mixed at 1/3 of an ounce per gallon instead of 1 oz per gallon like Talstar P. Therefore, it goes three times as far. If you already purchased the Talstar P and the Taurus SC, that's perfectly fine. Those products will do a very good job. The only reason I use the Bifen XTS is because it makes the job go way faster and I can reach high places without using a ladder. Other than that, it really doesn't make any difference. I would love to tell you that there's a natural way to prevent drywood termites, or any other pests for that matter, but the truth is the only way to do it is to use a pesticide that was developed for that purpose. Today's pesticides are safe enough for children to play on them after they dry. Pesticides got a bad reputation because of the kind of pesticides we used in the 20th century. Virtually all of those were banned in the late 1990s. We are almost a quarter of the way into the 21st century, and we now have 21st century pesticides that are perfectly safe to use. In fact, they are just as safe as laundry detergent. The reason we wear protective equipment is because you wouldn't want to spray laundry detergent on yourself either and you would not want to inhale it or get it in your eyes. Now would you? Still, you use it all the time. And don't even get me started on bleach. People use bleach all the time in their wash and it is way more hazardous than any pesticide that you can possibly purchase. If you would like more information about this, please watch my video on the subject. I will give you a link to it. You can fill the kick out holes in the fascia boards with any type of caulking you like. I think what works best is Bondo. This product was developed for auto body repair on cars, but it works wonderfully well on wood too. It is easy to work with and it also sands down very easily as well. When you are repairing the fascia boards, push on them with a screwdriver to make sure that they are not hollow. If the screwdriver pushes through the wood easily, then that area of the wood should be replaced. Naturally, you can replace the fascia boards with a non-wood material, but that will not stop the drywood termites from infesting your home. The fascia boards are only one place where they enter and they always seem to find their way into the attic and the walls, regardless of what you do. Therefore, the best way to prevent them is to do the treatment that I am recommending every 60 days. If you need to replace any of the fascia boards, you can treat bare wood that has not been painted or sealed in any way with Bora-Care. I will give you a link to it. This will make the wood permanently termite proof. It will also protect you from carpenter bees as well. Remember, this is for new wood only that has not been sealed with anything. I recommend applying it to the wood prior to making the repair. Wait at leas 48 hours before you paint it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the outside of your house with a hose and sprayer: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how safe pesticides are to use: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html Video on how to use Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Your Bondo idea is genius b/c caulk will cost way more. Similarly, could I also use stucco / drywall spackling paste b/c it comes with much bigger container? Your Bifen XTS idea is a lifesaver b/c it will reach 2-story house so I don't need to climb up every 3 month. We greatly appreciate your advice & experience keeping us safe. Thank you Sir !
@@Brian_L_5168 Thank you do much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Spackling compound is water soluble, so it is for interior use only. I wouldn't trust it for exterior use, even if you paint over it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I’m in Clearwater Florida. I found termites (full bodies) and some wings on 1 window sill. I now have found 1 trim piece around a bedroom door that appears to have termite damage as it’s soft to the touch. Is there a way to identify which type of termite is working on my house?
Take a look at the body of the termite to see what color it is. If the head and body are solid black, then this is a fairly common kind of subterranean termite that is easily eradicated. If all or part of the head and/or body is a reddish color, then you have a more serious problem because you are looking at either a drywood termite or a Formosan termite. You have both species in your area. If these things are a reddish color, then they are most likely drywood termites, but you cannot rule out Formosan termites either. So, unless these things are solid black, I would ask a pest control company to come in and have a look at them. Almost all pest control companies would be happy to give you a free estimate and they will tell you what species you are looking at and they may be able to give you an idea of how extensive the infestation is. Please do not sign anything. Let the pest controller know that you will be getting several estimates, before you decide on who you want to go with. I can tell you, without even looking at the specimens that you have, that there is a high probability that you have drywood termites. If I am correct, then you should know that the only way to eliminate this problem is to tent the house and fumigate. You should also know that prices can vary tremendously in this business, so it pays to shop. Always get at least six estimates for fumigation, before you decide on a company. A lot of pest control companies are going to offer you a much cheaper option and they will tell you that they can spot treat your problem. These people are lying to you. While it is true that they can spot treat for drywood termites, there is very little chance that they're going to kill off all the galleries. They will tell you that they will give you a one- or two-year guarantee for their work, but the guarantee is totally useless. All they will do is return when you find another gallery or they may inspect every year and treat a gallery that they happen to find. In any event, you will never treat all the galleries this way and so the termites will continue to eat your house. In order to continue this process, the pest control company is going to want to charge you about $300 a year for them to continue to inspect and spot treat galleries and that process will go on virtually forever. Even though spot treatment it's going to be very tempting because it is cheap to do, don’t be fooled into thinking this is a solution to your problem. The only way you can eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. Now, hopefully I am totally wrong about the species and these guys are not drywood termites. Let's hope you get lucky and these things are totally black and represent a species that you can easily eradicate yourself for about $100. Either way, please get back to me and let me know and I would be happy to guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Sir, thanks for sharing all these important tips. As you mentioned ,ach chemical has to be used for 3 months .That is, a rotation has to be done with each one. will the solution last foe 3 month in case of rainfall or if the treated areas are regularly washed.
Taurus SC will last 90 days, but other pesticides will last more like 60 days, so I treat every 60 days with Bifen XTS now. I did not mention that in the video because I just recently switched to it. I apply it with a hose end sprayer because it is way faster that way. You are not supposed to do that, but it will not harm you or the environment. None of the pesticides wash off from the rain. If you are interested in doing that, just watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. Mix the product as shown and use the recommended sprayer. You won't believe how fast it is to do this way. Shhhhhh. Don't tell anyone I shared this. If you want to use Taurus SC, then you should alternate between products at least every 90 days. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
Great question. If you do not have an existing infestation, then just doing the treatment that I describe in the video will work just fine. Now, if you would like to make your subfloor termite proof, you can spray all the wood with Bora-Care. I like to mix it one to one with water. After wood is treated with Bora-Care, then it can no longer be damaged by any wood destroying pests. You can do this in the attic as well. I will give you a link on how to apply it and where to get it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to use Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html Bora-Care supplier: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html?sub_id=554
I live in California, the Taurus SC and Talstar P you recommended on the link cannot be shipped to California, what are the alternatives you would recommend that can be shipped to California? Thanks!
You can obtain the products from domyown.com. If you want to save some money, you can use Bifen IT instead of the Talstar P. Same thing, but cheaper. The sprayers in the video are no longer available. I will provide links below for the pesticides and a good sprayer. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html Talstar P: www.domyown.com/talstar-professional-insecticide-p-97.html Bifen IT: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=11662 Sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3MKYWD/?coliid=I1WHD5A3RF25H9&colid=3VDXA5DFBKQ98&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Today I will spray to top of my house, windows, doors, and the skirting, along with where the skirting meets the floor and treat this about once a year between March and April when another exterminator said they are most active.
Drywood termites can swarm at any time during the year. Yes, they are most active at certain times, but they generally will swarm a couple of times during the year and they do not always adhere to your schedule. For that reason, I would urge you to do the exterior treatment every three months. You never know for sure when they will swarm and that's the truth.
You are not supposed to do this, but I do it with a hose end sprayer. Please watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. The sprayer in that video has a stream setting that will reach up to 25 feet, depending on water pressure. You must use Bifen XTS in the sprayer. It seems expensive, but it only gets mixed 1/3 oz per gallon, so it goes three times as far as other pesticides and it works well for drywood termites. In fact, that is what I use. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
The battery-powered sprayer is out of stock. Do you have any other recommendations? I have also emailed you pictures and questions on how to get the HOA to agree to treat the building. I am a new owner five days post-close and super overwhelmed. I believe I have drywall termites. During inspection, only a bedroom was treated after visible frass, and a couple of weeks later, I found frass again in the treated area. I've called the company, and they will return this week. However, they mentioned they could not find a hole. But from the pics I sent you, it's clear there is a bigger issue in multiple areas. So I want to start preventative treatment while I gain HOA buy in for building treatment. I appreciate your guidance.
I take it that you live in a condo. Is that correct? If so, please send me some photos of the outside of the building. It's faster than trying to describe it to me. After I see the building, I can tell you if there is any way to treat this problem. I will look at the email you sent as soon as I can. Right now, I am backed up a few days. This is my busy season, but I will get to everyone. So, please be patient. I do have a way to prevent drywood termites that does not require a tank sprayer, but the HOA will never do it. You are probably on your own with this. I can assure you though that all of the units now have drywood termites. The entire building should be tented and fumigated, but they probably will not do that, even though this may cause a serious problem, depending upon the way the building is constructed. That's why I need to see it. In some cases, this is just a cosmetic problem, but in other cases you may get structural damage at some point that will cost thousands to repair. Sometimes, if structural damage may result, then the best thing you can do is sell and cut your losses. Hopefully, that is not the case here. I will give it to you straight when I see the building. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Please watch my video on Spectracide Termite Stakes. With drywood termites, it doesn't matter if you have a slab home. With subterranean termites, the foundation type is not critical, but it does matter how much concrete you have that abuts the house. Please get back to me if subterranean termites are a concern and tell me more about the ground around the house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on Spectracide Termite Stakes: ruclips.net/video/UDzg-1lpynA/видео.html
Hi Guy, I don’t have Taurus SC but I do have Suspend SC. Can I use this pesticide as my first treatment? I have the Talstar P for the in between applications. No problem if I need to purchase the Taurus SC. Thanks much! Lynda
I think the Suspend SC is okay to use, but the Talstar P is a better choice if you do not have Taurus SC. So, if you have Talstar P, then I would use that and I would order the Taurus SC for the second application. That is just my opinion. I'm sure there are pest controllers that would argue it with me. Personally, I think suspensions are best used indoors. Yes, Suspend SC is labeled for outside use, but I don't think the residual is as long as Talstar P. Also, I'm not sure that the Suspend SC is even labeled for termites. It may be, but I don't happen to have any on hand to see. I am sure that the Talstar P is labeled for termites. Take a look at the target pests on the label to see. If termites are listed, then it's probably fine to use. Again, my personal experience is that the Talstar P just lasts longer. I have not exactly conducted any scientific studies on though, so I cannot make this claim with total certainty. Just my personal experience. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Be well Lynda.
Hi Guy, what about diatomaceous earth? I heard termites and other bugs carry it with them and spread it throughout the colony? Thanks so much for your videos!
Diatomaceous earth is not effective against termites. Yes, this will kill a termite, but the problem is getting it to the termites. Subterranean termites travel underground and that is where you need to place the termiticide in order to kill them. Since subterranean termites must return to the colony fairly often to obtain moisture and to feed the rest of the colony, they pass through the termiticide that is released by the granules and they share it with the other termites in the colony. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. It is important to note that subterranean termite colonies are always in the ground and never in your home. They only stop by your house in order to eat because your house happens to be their favorite restaurant. So, the bottom line is that diatomaceous earth is not going to work. The only reason why the granules work is because they release a termiticide that leaches into the ground after you water it in. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, How should a chemical be applied to facia that is out of reach as in a multi-story building for Drywood termite prevention? + Do you recommend trenching for subterranean termites for a house purchased 1 year ago (30 miles north of Atlanta in No. GA). The house seems to have been trenched before (spaced drill holes in concrete), but not sure when this was done. No visible evidence of active termite infestation (by my untrained eye) aside from a couple of questionable spots inside the house on window frames which may have been treated before.
Drywood termites do not exist where you live, so no need to treat the eaves for that particular pest. You could treat the eaves for other things, like brown recluse spiders, wasps, and that sort of thing. There is a way to do that from the ground, but I prefer not to explain how it's done in the comment sections of my videos. I would be happy to share it with you if you write to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. When you write, please tell me your RUclips name, so that I know who you are. As for other termite species, you basically have two kinds of termites where you live, and they are both subterranean. While you do have Formosan termites in your area, they are fairly uncommon. The most likely species that you will run into are Eastern subterranean termites, and they are easily prevented by just using termite granules. I used to live just north of Atlanta and I wiped out an infestation in my house using these granules. They work very well, as long as you have dirt surrounding most of your house. I have a video on how to apply the granules, and I will give you a link to it. Just make sure that you use the correct granules. You need to get the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowe's stores no longer sell the correct granules, so if they do not have the ones with imidacloprid, then you can order them from Amazon. I will give you the link for that as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent termites with granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_7&=&crid=3UG5VHBQKWV2Z&=&sprefix=termite
Thanks for your details. Anyway I am in process buying a house in Texas , after getting reports from home and termite inspection. They found there was termite in the closet area in the bedroom, but it is not active termite. It is the only spot they found in the house. The owner said he will take care that issue and fix that area, but I am not sure if I should buy that house or not, please help from your experience. Thank you sir
Thank you for reaching out to me. The answer to your question is a little bit complicated. The first thing that you need to know is the species of termite that you were looking at. Some areas of Texas have drywood termites and, if that is the species you were dealing with, then getting rid of them is going to cost a couple of thousand dollars. Just spot treating the area where they were discovered is not going to get it done. Drywood termites are typically found near the coast, so if you are living close to the Gulf, like the Houston area, then this could be a serious problem. However, if we are talking about Dallas, then this is nowhere near as serious. My recommendation would be to ask the termite inspector what species they discovered. Even though they don't think the damaged area is active, they should still be able to determine the species. If these are dry wood termites, then they should be finding kickout holes and possibly frass under those kickout holes. If these are subterranean termites, then the inspector should have found some evidence, like mud tubes, somewhere around the structure. If the inspector has no clue what the species was, then that inspector is probably incompetent and you would be well served to have the house reinspected by a competent inspector. I know that additional inspection is going to cost one money, but it is probably money well spent, because it is very rare for termites to just go away on their own. It is possible though because they may have come from the same colony that was attacking another house. If that house was treated for them, it may have killed off the termites in the house you are looking to buy. You don't see this very often, but it is a possibility. If these are dry wood termites on the other hand, then they do not colonize in the ground, but rather in the house itself. Therefore, they would have needed to be treated or the infestation would not be gone. To complicate things even further, you also have a species that exists throughout most of Texas called Formosan termites. These guys are very ferocious eaters and do a lot of damage in a very short period of time. I do not suspect that you have them though because it sounds like the damage was very isolated and minor. So, my advice is to figure out what species you are dealing with and if they are not drywood termites, then go ahead and buy the house. You can figure this out in part just by knowing where the house is located. I have a video on how to determine termite species and I will give you a link to that video. There is a map in that video that shows where drywood termites are a problem. If you live outside the red area on the map, then I think you are good to go. However, if you live inside the red area, then you would be well advised to make sure that these are not drywood termites. You can get rid of drywood termites, but it's going to require that you fumigate the house and that is going to be a little expensive. So, it may be the sort of thing that you want to have done before the closing. Naturally, this should be at the seller’s expense. If these termites are just a plain vanilla species of subterranean termites, then you can usually treat them for under $50 yourself. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to determine termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
@@chanthoubun8535 If you live up around I20 or I30, then you are way too far north for drywood termites. You are still in Formosan termite territory, but just based on the extent of the damage that you are reporting, I would not suspect that this would be the case. If the damage in the closet was caused by termites, then it is most likely that you are looking at a fairly common species of subterranean termites. In most cases, this can be easily treated with termite granules for around $50. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Simply repairing the damaged area is not going to end the infestation. You have to actually kill colony. The granules are effective in doing that about 95% of the time. Be careful not to purchase the wrong granules. There are two formulations of the granules that are made by the same company, but only one of those formulations is effective. I will give you a link below to the correct granules. Do not buy them Lowe's or Home Depot because most of those stores are now selling the wrong granules. So, the bottom line is that I would not allow this to stop me from purchasing the house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat subterranean termites with granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k3_1_4&&crid=2FTDE6XXAAGZK&&sprefix=bioa
If you are seeing a mud tube or an infested area. They can be treated with a fipronil foam. If it's a mud tube, just scrape off about a 2-inch section, down to the surface, and shoot the foam into the tube in both directions for a couple of seconds. To treat a damaged area that has an existing infestation, just drill holes that are 4 inches apart and wide enough for the applicator tip to get into. Drill the holes about halfway through the thickness of the wood and along the entire length of the damaged area. Then, simply shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until the foam is coming back out at you or is coming out the other holes that you drilled. You should have foam either going into or out of every hole. Boric acid is not effective against termites. It will kill them, but there is not effective way to deliver it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@lakibird21 I'm not sure what you mean by a transfer effect, but I can tell you that the termites do transfer the fipronil from one termite to another. So, if one termite comes in contact with the foam, and touches another termite, then that termite will also die. If the second termite touches another termite, then that termite will die too. That is why this product will kill off a gallery or even an entire colony. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@tracynoscar Any fipronil foam can be injected into a hardwood floor. If you are seeing holes in the floor, just shoot the foam into the holes for about five seconds or until the foam is coming back out at you. If the wood is just feeling soft, but no holes, you can drill small holes in the areas that feel soft, and then inject the foam. The holes only need to be wide enough for the applicator tip to get in and should only be drilled halfway through the wood. If you are going to replace the floors and you don't care about damaging them, then drill the holes about four inches apart and foam every hole. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
What battery sprayer(s) do you recommend to get up to the roof line? We have an issue under the fascia and guessing its 30 feet vertical. The link below is no longer valid. Plus the detail left a lot to be desired. Sprayers are a big part of this job.
If you don't mind deviating from the label recommendations a bit, you can use a hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS to do the same job. You are not supposed to do it this way, but when you have high places to reach, it's about the only option available. Please watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. The sprayer in that video has a stream setting that will reach as high as 25 feet, depending upon water pressure. So, you still may need a step ladder for some places, but that's not so bad. This video will also show you how to mix the Bifen XTS in the sprayer. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions - I binge watched the entire 1st season of "Succession" this week. But I spent more time watching you on youtube! You're saving me a lot of money my friend, so BRAVO! Conservatively guessing about $250 per hour. We live within 2 miles of the coast in southern California. We noticed frass on the floor in one of the upstairs bedrooms. Immediately outside that area, in the same general vicinity, we noticed termite damage within the eve 25 feet up. No mud tubes. And as I pointed out in an earlier post we had someone paint our cedar fence and it exposed more termite damage. As you know, our flying hardwood termites swarm every fall and last fall was no exception. Therefore we are 99% sure we have hardwood termites. I want to add, we have small grand children and a dog, needless to say their welfare is paramount to us. Here is our plan..... subject to an audible. We have already treated the wall above the frass with Termicide Foam targeting the nest and queen. We will also treat the eve damage with the same product. After witch we will diligently and continuously inspect for new nests and target treat the areas with T-foam. In addition, we will buy the sprayer, all the knickknacks suggested, the Bifen XTS, and spray everywhere; the eves, up the walls of the house say 3 feet, the ground, the fence itself and the ground below, etc. It could be overkill, but we are buying Bioadvanced granules to apply along the fence line and around the house perimeter. Does this sound like a plan? Please take total license to straighten me out, I'm thrilled to be guided.
@@wd229 Thank you so much for those kind words. I never thought it was possible that anybody would want to binge watch my videos. Very much appreciated. It sounds like you do have drywood termites. It is a very smart idea to start doing the preventive treatment immediately. The termite granules will not do anything to treat or prevent drywood termites, but it is still a very good idea to use them. In addition to dry wood termites you also have subterranean termites where you live, and the granules are a good choice for preventing them. There are some things that you should know about drywood termites though. I don't recall if I mentioned this before, so let me go over it, just in case. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. This is why you need to do the preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions - I also hate being the bearer of bad news. People, skip all the videos and go straight to the tent negotiation video, save yourself hours of watching these videos. I cannot hide my disappointment after reading your reply. I watched 8 hours of video and should have watched less than 30 minutes. Your videos make it sound like you can save people money by using treatment methods for working around tenting. I made it crystal clear from moment one, I had termites in my walls, upstairs there was visible frass, and I already spot treated with T-foam. It doesn't take an exterminator to tell me I have termites and the specie. Who cares what specie they are if you're tenting, there's only 2 and I knew which specie was in the house. Now I find out I need to tent... and within a year and your telling me I'll have termites back. 99% of the people that come to your videos know they have termites. I know my neighbors have termites, their infestation is far worse than mine and they've have had termites for years, we all know it. You tell me Termite granules won't work but put them down anyway, huh? You need to cut to the chase, tent your house is all you need to tell people. As you say the termites will be back in a year. Buy a battery powered sprayer and get after spraying when you have time. End of video. TENT TENT TENT folks. Tell me to do prevention every 60-90 days, are you kidding me! You sound like a dentist, auto mechanic, doctor etc. Do I floss after every meal, change my oil every 5k, stay away from beer, sugars and starch, of course not. If I followed protocol of every professional dispensing advice I would have no time for myself! I can handle getting and evaluating multiple bids, I've tented multiple homes.
It sounds like you are having a bad day. So sorry about that. It also sounds like you are very confused about termites. Please allow me to clarify for you. Not all termites are the same. Tenting only works for drywood termites. It does not work for subterranean termites. That is why you need to identify the species. In your case, it sounds like you do have drywood termites, but not everyone does. Also, not everyone knows that they have termites. I get questions all the time from people who are trying to figure it out. As for treating every 60 to 90 days, that is up to you. I am simply pointing out that you WILL get reinfested again if you don't do it. I don't make this stuff up. What I am telling you is a fact. You may not like doing it, but if you don't, then you are going to get reinfested. Just like, if you don't get your oil changed, then your engine is going to fail prematurely. Maintenance is just a fact of life. The termites are going to do what they do and I can't change their behavior and neither can you. So, your choices are to do the preventive treatment or live with termites. It's really not my fault. I'm just trying to help you solve your problem. I am also okay if you don't like the way my videos are done, but if you skip important information in them, then you are not getting all the information you may need. That may be why you didn't understand that you cannot tent for all species. I provide all that information for a reason. Not everyone needs all of it, but some people require different information than others, so I need to do a thorough job. It sounds like you are more frustrated with the termites than you are with me, but unlike them, you can write to me about it, and I do understand your frustration. Also, I care about you a lot more than the termites do. Be well my friend.
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Is Taurus SC safe to humans and pets once it dries? I just got my house fumigated. Now I'm terrified of getting termites again. Very expensive to deal with. Does the Taurus SC penetrate the wood studs in my shed so that it becomes unattractive to termites? Is Taurus SC the same as what the pest companies use? They charged me $800 to spray a product they said I could not buy as a consumer. They told me I'm protected for at least 2 years. But I want to spray more and do a more thorough job. I dont think they got every single area. But they said they did. Thanks
Taurus SC and most of the pesticides are safe enough for children to play on after they dry. That is an EPA requirement that was put into place in the late 20th century. Taurus SC does not penetrate the wood to prevent termites. It doesn't work that way. It is a surface treatment only. This is the same product that the professionals use except the stuff they use is Termidor SC. Both products are exactly the same. You can buy either product, but Taurus SC is a little less expensive. When used in trenching, these products will last 5 to 10 years. However, when applied as a surface spray you would be lucky to get 4 months out of them. So, the pest controller basically misled you. If you are using Taurus SC, you should be applying this product as shown in my video, at least every 3 months. You can treat unfinished wood with Bora-Care. This product will permanently treat the wood it is applied to and make it termite proof forever. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it. It is okay to use this product with cold water. I recommend mixing it one to one with water. Ignore the label recommendations to mix it one to five. You can purchase just about any pesticide you want from domyown.com. They will ship to most states. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
I understand the trench method but what if your house is raised? Sitting in cinder blocks? Lots of homes in the south are made like this. Do u get under the house & Spray?? Or install baits???
It sounds like you are telling me that your house is on piers, so there is no actual foundation around the house. If that is the case, there are two ways you can go about it. The first way is to go under there every 60 to 90 days and spray all the wood. The second way is to do a permanent treatment under there with Bora-Care. This may be a little bit of work, but after you do it, you never need to do it again. The treatment literally lasts the life of the house, and it comes with the advantage that it will kill any existing termites that are in the wood already. To do the treatment properly, you need to remove the insulation, and spray Bora-Care on absolutely everything under the house that is made of wood. Then you need to replace the insulation. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to use Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html?pdpv=2
Thank u so much for your help. I found the nest. Today actually. Tore out the whole wall. Ac was leaking & the wet wood was a feast for them. Replaced insulation, 2x4's, 1×6 around the window, & caught it before they started in my wooden floors. No damage yet to subflooring. & yes house on piers. Definately gonna do what u recommended bc this was already a nightmare. Can't imagine if they did more damage. But will find out. Checking all moisture areas 1st. Thank u so much! Will continue to tune in. Kid u not, i prayed last week, asked God to help me save my house, found u a few days ago, & learned so much from ur vids, took ur advice, & im on my way. I have termidor foams, taurus sc, fuze foam, cypher tc, & will be buying the bora stuff. Thank u, thank u, thank u❤️ & thank the Lord above❤️
Hi Guy. I have purchased brand new house in dallas Texas. And company that build the house told me that they used bora-care on wood but only 3 feet up from the ground, so rest of the wood is not treated. So I have few questions : 1. Do you think that I should still dig the trench and use termidor? 2. How about drywood termites? Will they still be able to get inside of my house even if there is bora care on the wood on first 3 feet up from the ground? 3. Will that bora care on first 3 feet be enough for subterranean termites and formosan termites? Or do you still suggest using termidor sc?
Thank you for reaching out to me. I will do my best to answer all your questions.
If the company that built the house did the Bora-Care treatment correctly, then your house is termite proof permanently, and this treatment will protect you from subterranean termites only. However, since they only treated three feet up, this will not protect you from drywood termites. While that may sound horrible, the good news is that you are a bit too far north to encounter drywood termites. That being said, I did have one person from Dallas that told me they had dry wood termites. I think that would be a very unusual situation, but it could happen in a case where somebody purchased a used piece of furniture from a more southern area of Texas, and that furniture was infested with drywood termites. As a general rule though, you will not see drywood termites in places where it gets below freezing and where it may snow. Drywood termites need a humid environment all year long to survive. In cold climates, the humidity typically drops below the point where drywood termites can survive. Therefore, I do not think it is necessary for you to treat for drywood termites, and that is probably why they did not treat the entire house with Bora-Care.
In the interest of providing the total truth here, you should know that there is a very small possibility that subterranean termites can get past the Bora-Care treatment, if they were to build a mud tube up the side of the house, where there is no Bora-Care, to an area of the house that was not treated. I must emphasize that this is a very unusual situation. Subterranean termites will almost always attack the first wood they come to, so treating the first three feet from the ground up will almost always get it done. If it were me, and I was the builder, I would have treated all the wood in the house, from the roof down to the basement. That would have costed very little more money and it would have made your house completely termite proof for all species. It would have also made your house carpenter ant proof and carpenter bee proof as well. When we think of wood destroying insects, we generally think about termites, but they are not the only species that will destroy wood. I think it would have cost less than $500 for the builder to do the job right, and you would have been protected against all species of termites and all other would destroying insects as well. Most likely, the contractor was not trying to be cheap, but rather simply didn't know that a total treatment from the roof down was necessary. If you watch most of the RUclips videos that explain how to apply Bora-Care, they will tell you to just treat three feet up from the foundation. Even though RUclips is a great source of information, it is also a great source of misinformation as well. Anyway, if it were me, I would not do any additional treatments at this time, unless you discover some type of an infestation. If you notice any type of activity, such as mud tubes going up the side of the house, holes in the fascia boards, dead carpenter ants near the walls, and so forth, then I would treat for those problems when they happen.
Hi Guy, recently we started seeing termites in our bathtub and shower. We called two companies both could not find any other evidence of termites anywhere else on the property but still have quotes for 2,200$ up to 2,700$ for only 3-5 years of protection. So we went out and bought Taurus and I dug a trench outside along that wall where they seemed to be coming in and poured that product. We also purchased a canned product called thermador which is coming tomorrow we plan to drill holes in the walls and put that foam product in the walls. Do you think these things that we are doing could be enough to solve the issues? Sorry to ask so many questions but also when you sprayed around your house in this video did you use 0.8 fluid oz per 1 gallon of water? Thank you so much. Ty
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. I have learned to never say never in pest control, but I suspect that you may not have termites at all. You see, termites do not typically ever come out in the open, so you should never see them in the bathtub. That may be the reason the pest controllers did not find evidence of termites. If you still have one of these guys, then you can send me a photo of it. Just email it to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please get as close to the specimen as possible, without getting the photo out of focus. I will let you know what you are dealing with. If these are termites, then we can start to figure out what kind they are and then come up with a plan to treat them effectively. So, for now, please stop treating. You didn't do anything that will cause harm, but there is no sense treating the wrong way. Before you can treat effectively, you need to know the target pest. Also, location matters, so please tell me where you live. Some species only live in certain areas of the US and other parts of the world. Where you live will help me narrow down the possibilities. If you email me, please remind me of the problem and give me your RUclips name, so that I can go back and look at your original comment. I get a lot of email, so it helps if I know who it is emailing me. Probably 50% of my emails are about termites, so it is easy to get folks mixed up because the problems are very similar. I don't think I will forget termites in the bathtub though. I have not heard that one before. So, if you mention that in the email, I will know exactly who you are. Be well my friend.
In my opining it's a total rip off. Termites do not eat insulation. Termites eat cellulose. Wood contains cellulose, and that's why they eat it. Insulation that is blown in also contains cellulose, but the termites will not eat it because it is treated with a fire retardant. In fact, it will probably repel them. Bora-care is applied directly to the wood, and it penetrates almost all the way through. So, any termites that get into the attic will die when they eat wood that is treated with Bora-care. So, save your money. I hope that helps. Be well Dayana.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I just saw your question this morning. The answer is no. You can only use Bora-Care on bare wood. I will give you a link to a video on it. Be well my friend. Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
The Bifen I/T is pretty much the same thing as the Talstar P. The only difference is that the Talstar P is odorless. They claim that the Bifen I/T is odorless, but it's not. I can certainly smell it and my wife would never let me use it in the house because of the odor. The Bifen I/T is NOT the same as the Taurus SC. The active ingredient is totally different and these products work differently as well. The Taurus SC is more expensive, but you get what you pay for. The Taurus SC will last three months, but the Bifen I/T and the Talstar P will not. I find that the Bifen I/T and the Taurus SC fall a bit short of 90 days. During that time, you are not fully protected. I would use the Taurus SC every 90 days if I could, but it's only labeled for every 180 days. So, you do need to alternate with something. The Bifen I/T is a good choice for that in between treatment, but I would still use the Taurus SC. You may get away with just using the Bifen I/T, but you will definitely regret it if you get drywood termites. So, personally, I would spend the extra money for the better insurance. It's not that much more money. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Be well Lynda.
Bora-Care is a wonderful product, but to be effective, it must be applied over bare wood. The problem with drywood termites is that they enter through cracks and crevices around the entire home. It would certainly help to treat all the wood in the attic with Bora-Care, but that will not help you if they enter through cracks and crevices around windows, pipe penetration, and that sort of thing. So, if it were me, I would treat whatever wood I could with Bora-Care, but I would also do a preventive treatment as well, every 60 to 90 days. Always mix the Bora-Care one to one with water. The label will tell you that one to five is okay, but don't do it. I hope that helps. Be well Carli.
As a general rule of thumb, you need to allow it to dry at least 2 hours before it rains. It will not wash away after it dries, but it will wash away when it's wet. It's always best to check the forecast prior to application of any pesticides outside. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, Its been a while but me keeps watching your videos for my know how and in pronto application, been occupied eradicating drywood or subterranean termite colonies inside the cabinets in my house. I wonder why haven't found the Queen. In one area termites are just like cooked rice, that much they are, I found outdoor in an open wood cabinet, I had to destroy the wood beneath. Can I use Bifen IT instead of Talstar P, both have the same amount of Bifenthrin ingredient 7.9% Can I use Fipforce Aqua instead of Taurus SC both have Fipronil ingredient. Thanks very much for your informational videos and support, its more than a help.
I would be more than happy to assist you. First, can you tell me where you live. Location matters. Do you live in Australia? Also, can you tell me why you believe that you have both drywood and subterranean termites. That can certainly happen, and I have seen it before, but it is usually the exception and not the norm. Are you seeing mud tubes and frass? Please describe the problems and what you are seeing. Using Bifen IT instead of Talstar P is fine. I have actually now switched to Bifen XTS. If you email me, I can provide you with a super-fast and easy way to apply it. My email is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I never share that in the comment section. I am not familiar with Fipforce Aqua because it is not readily available in the US. I believe that product is mainly sold in Australia. At least, I have not seen it here. As far as I know, it should work just as well as Taurus SC. Just provide all the details about what is going on and I will do my very best to assist you. Be well my friend.
I can tell you that there are a number of pest control companies that will try to sell you a Sentricon system. While that is the gold standard for baiting systems, it comes at a fairly steep price. They usually are reasonably priced to install, but keep in mind that you have to pay them a monthly or yearly fee to have them monitor the stations and that fee goes on virtually forever. So, in the long run, it's going to cost you a lot of money utilize this system. It is far more cost effective to simply treat your house with termite granules every year, which only costs about $50. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below for you. Just be sure that you purchase the correct granules. Bayer is making two versions of the granulates now and one of those versions does not work. You need the version that is 700350A and not 700370. The correct version uses imidacloprid as the active ingredient. The wrong version uses beta-cyfluthrin as the active ingredient. A lot of Lowe's and Home Depot stores are no longer selling the correct product, but it can still be obtained from Amazon and I'll place the link below it. Now, there are baiting systems that you can buy over the counter, but some of them are problematic. You definitely do not want to buy the Spectracide system. That system is loaded with bait and the problem with that is ants like to eat the bait as well as termites. Therefore, you are constantly going to have those little pop-up sticks come up telling you that the bait stations are empty, even though you do not have termites. Then there is the Trelona system, which works pretty well, but you need to remove the top of the monitoring stations every month or so to see if you have termite activity. This system does not have a bait in the monitoring stations and what you do is, if you see activity in the monitoring station, then you switch out the nonpoisonous food source with the actual bait. So, while this system works fairly well, it is also time consuming. Then there are Red Eye monitoring stations. The nice thing about these is that you do not need to remove the top in order to inspect them. There is a clear window on the top of the station, with a little red dot in it. When the dot disappears, then you have termites. This system does not incorporate a bait, but rather a wooden dowel. When the termites eat the dowel, then it drops to the bottom of the station and the red dot disappears. When that happens, you simply shoot in a fipronil foam and that is supposed to kill off the entire colony. With all of these systems, you need to install them at 8-foot intervals around your home, so you need a lot of them. If I were going with a monitoring system, then I would probably select the Red Eye. These are only available from Solutions Pest and Lawn. Personally, I'm do not use a monitoring system on my home because I found that the termite granules do a wonderful job and there is no need to monitor. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat for subterranean termites with granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k1_1_10&&crid=2USG8KURWPM95&&sprefix=bioadvance
Yes. It works for mobile homes. The treatment method is exactly the same, except, if you have a metal roof, then treat that too. Don't forget to spray the entire skirt. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi guy. I put the BioAdvanced around the house and let the rain the next day soak it into the ground. Was that ok to do that? And thanks for all the great advice.
I guess that depends upon how much rain there was. As long as there was not so much rain that it washed away the granules, then you are good to go. If the ground is sloped away from the house, then a heavy rain can wash away the granules before they melt. If that is the case, then it's best to lightly water them in. If the ground that meets the foundation is fairly level, then the granules will generally stay in place and the rain will do the work for you. If you do not have an active infestation, then I would not be concerned. However, if you do have an active infestation, then you may want to consider reapplying the granules and watering them in. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
What do you think about boracare to kill existing and stop future damage? I used termidor sc under the porch up against basement wall where termites were believed to be. They claim boracare works for the life of the wood and using on the treating of the studs and floor plates as it is remodeled and spraying attic for possible drywood termites. The house is over 100yrs old.
You are correct. Bora-Care is a permanent solution for all species of wood destroying pests, including drywood termites. I have a video on how to treat drywood termites yourself and I do recommend using Bora-Care in that video. I will place a link below for that video. That being said, you should know that the only sure way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to tent the building and fumigate with a gas. I just finished producing a video that outlines all the available treatment options for drywood termites and I will be posting it to RUclips tomorrow. If you subscribe to my channel and click on the bell, then you will be notified when it posts. This video may be of interest to you because it covers all the possible treatment options, soup to nuts, and how to hire the right pro if you need one. I have not seen another video that covers all of this subject matter. Essentially, this video does all your homework for you regarding available treatment options and the advantages and disadvantages to each and the costs. I think it's a must watch if you have drywood termites. Also, you should be aware that you must apply Bora-Care correctly for it to work. The label says you can mix it one to five with water, but that is not wise if you have an active termite infestation. You should always mix it one to one. The video below will go over all of that for you. I hope that helps. Please feel free to ask me all the questions you want. I am always here to help. How to Treat a Drywood Termite Infestation Yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions I haven't seen any evidence of dry wood to date but I am treating for future and as a preservative on the old wood. I had a trail of subterranean termites up the wall to the attic. I have treated the ground where they were coming from and created a barrier in between the basement block walls and the wooden structures above. If subterranean termites are already in the attic will they live or die off? I haven't found them yet so I have been treating that area above. I subscribed and will check out your other videos, it's so much cheaper to do yourself and the good advice comes in handy.
@@bcmccoy4127 Okay. Here's the thing about most subterranean termites... They are lazy and will start eating the closest wood available. That means, unless you have a block home with no wood in the walls at all, they are going to start eating as close to the ground as they can. Another way of saying that is, you won't see them in the attic very often. So, when I hear of termites in the attic, that tells me that these are either drywood termites or Formosan termites. Now, Formosan termites are also subterranean, but for some reason, they will find their way into the attic. Therefore, you need to figure out what species you are dealing with. If you are seeing mud tubes going up to the attic, then I would be thinking Formosan termites because drywood termites do not build mud tubes. Now, if you are actually seeing these things, then make sure that they are not carpenter ants. You never get to see termites because they cannot survive exposure to the air. However, carpenter ants do not have this problem and you see them all the time, especially at night. If you are unsure if they are ants or termites, then have a look at my video on Termites vs Carpenter Ants. I will place a link below. Also, have a look at my video on How to Identify Termite Species. I will place a link below for that video as well. There is a map in that video that will show where Formosan termites are a problem. If the termites are plain vanilla subterranean termites, like Eastern subterranean termites, then the ground treatment will kill all the termites in the building, regardless of where they are. However, Formosan and drywood termites are not that way. You also need to treat the building. It's the same with carpenter ants. You need to treat inside the building to get rid of them. That's why it is important to know exactly what you are dealing with. I hope that helps. Termites vs Carpenter Ants video: ruclips.net/video/enJPS-h70Bs/видео.html How to Identify Termite Species video: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
Hi guy. Ive decided to try and treat the full blown drywood termite infestation of my bedroom. By now my, bed,closet, shelves, and bedside table are all infested, thankfully i dont live in a wooden house or id have to burn it down. I cant get rid of the infested furniture because i dont have the money. My only solution is the diy way but i also have a toddler and i was wondering if there were any natural options to get rid of these pest. Im ready to spray 5gallons of vinegar or lemon or a bucket of salt if these work . But my only option is the diy. I cant call pest control because i dont want to let my mil know that i have termites. I just cant. So please any natural easily available option?
I understand that everyone wants everything natural these days, but the truth is that those methods simply do not work for drywood termites. The only thing that works is a fipronil foam. You just shoot it into the kick out holes that are left in the furniture by the termites. The foam will expand to several times its size and it will get into the galleries in the furniture. Don't worry about harming your child. This product is safe after it dries, and you are not applying it to areas where the child is going to get at it anyway. You are just shooting it into the holes, until it is coming back out at you. Then just wipe off the excess. You can also go over the area where the foam was wiped off with a mild detergent or furniture cleaner if you like. That will remove the excess. Just put the child in another room when you are treating and wear gloves and eye protection. If you are worried about using pesticides, then please watch my video on the subject. It will explain the truth about the real hazards of using pesticides. Most people find it very eye opening. I will give you a link to it. I think you will feel a lot better about using the foam after you watch it. Upholstered furniture is a problem because you cannot get to the wood without removing the fabric and cushioning. To see if you have termites in the upholstered furniture, just move it and turn it over. If you see frass under the furniture, or in any parts on the underside of it, then it is infested. I don't know any way to treat that by yourself. We generally either fumigate it or throw it away. It doesn't sound like either of those options will work for you. If you let it go though, they will not only destroy the furniture, but will also swarm at some point and continue to infest other wood. I wish I had a better solution for upholstered furniture, but I cannot think of one. For the rest of the furniture, the foam will do a wonderful job. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video that explains the truth about how dangerous pesticides are: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Alternative supplier for foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
You should know that Chlorpyrifos has been linked to a number of health problems, including neurodevelopmental problems in children, respiratory problems, and cancer. As a result, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) either has already banned or is trying to ban most residential uses of chlorpyrifos and is currently reviewing its use on food crops. While this material will kill termites, I do not know of an effective way to deliver it to drywood termites. This material is probably best NOT used indoors. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
You are very welcome. I'm sorry that it took me so long to get the drywood videos done. I had a lot on my plate, but it felt good to get these finished because a lot of people were asking about drywood termites. Thank you so much for watching. Be well Stella.
Hey Guy if I Fumigate for drywall termites and live in a mobile home and my neighbors have termites too ,what are the chances I’ll get infested again after I fumigate , the mobile homes are close to each other that’s why I’m worried
The odds are literally 100%. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
The only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. You should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
@@ginger111008 Pest control companies almost always use sulfuryl fluoride. The brand names include Vikane, Zythor, Master fume, and ProFume. They are all the same thing. It is also possible that a company could fumigate with other gases such as methyl bromide, ethylene oxide, and carbon dioxide, but these gases are more hazardous and are generally not used. My guess is that the companies are all planning to use sulfuryl fluoride, but the brand name may be different. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, RUclips did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me. If you are asking if you can use Termidor SC, then the answer is yes. Again, so sorry for the delay. Be well my friend.
The pesticide is safe enough for children to play on after it dries. Just keep the dogs in the house while you are applying it. They can come out as soon as it is dry. That depends on how hot it is out, but usually no more than an hour. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Demon Max It's a fine pesticide to use, but personally I do not use it. The reasons for that are basically threefold. The first reason is the cost. It does about the same job as Bifen IT, but it costs almost twice as much to buy and has less residual action. You can reapply the Bifen IT every 60 to 90 days, but they recommend that you reapply the Demon Max every 30 days. So, I can do the same job for a fraction of the price. The second reason is that it has an odor to it. The Bifen IT also has a slight odor, but it dissipates within seconds. Finally, the Demon Max is an oil-based product and has been known to stain some surfaces. Most of the time I do not use pesticides inside the house because I do a really good job treating outside the house and the bugs never get in in the first place. So, this is not an actual reason why I don’t use it, but if I needed to treat inside the house, then the Demon Max can only be used as a crack and crevice spray and not as a surface spray for interior use. The Bifen IT can be applied to interior surfaces. Now, I'm not saying that you should not use Demon Max. I think it does a great job, but for me, there does not seem to be any advantage to paying a lot more for a product that is not as versatile and needs to be applied three times as often. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Sure. You can buy Taurus SC from domyown.com. They will ship most products to CA. I will place a link below. Be well Tuan. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Unfortunately, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks. I have been answering email all day and I still have a lot to go. I don't think I will get to all of them before I leave. So, I may not be able to answer your email until after I get back. Don't worry though. I will answer all your questions and explain everything upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11. If you have drywood termites, then my advice is to do nothing until you hear from me. Drywood termites are very slow eaters, and it can take years for them to do any significant damage. So, you do have the luxury of time. I may be able to save you a lot of money, so please be patient. I wish I didn't need to go, but this was a reasonable request. I will do my very best not to let you down. Just hang in there for two or three weeks and I will be there for you. Be well Rebecca.
Yes, you can. In fact, it's probably more effective. I have not used it myself, so I cannot say for sure, but I know that it is oil based, so I'm thinking that it will have some odor to it. Also, it is somewhat more expensive than Bifen IT. The biggest differences between the Bifen IT and the Bifen XTX is that the XTX has a higher concentration of the active ingredient and it is oil based. Therefore, it is reasonable to conclude that it will last longer and be somewhat more effective. I would still apply it every three months. If you use it, please get back to me and let me know if it has an objectionable odor or if you find it staining to surfaces in any way. I have not tried it yet because of the price, possible odor, and safety concerns, but the reviews are very good. You definitely want to wear full protective equipment with this product. It contains naphthalene, which is a known carcinogen. With most pesticides, you can get a little on you and not worry about it, but I would be very careful with this one, particularly since you are spraying over your head. You definitely must shower immediately after using it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
It works for roaches ants and earwigs around foundation, I see lots of dead ones. I usually spray between February and June, because I’m Southern California Drywoods Termites swarm from neighbors and nearby trees, so for that reason I drench my windows doors siding and where siding meets roof eeves.
@@joseleon7444 I also recommend that you spray the fascia boards as well. Drywood termites are known to get under the shingles where they meet the drip edge. I know, it sounds hard to believe, but it can happen. Also, catch the entire soffit because there can be openings where the soffits meet the fascia boards. The other thing you should be aware of is that there are actually two species of drywood termites where you are and they swarm at different times of the year. The western drywood termite swarms between September and November. The desert drywood termite swarms from June to September. So, you are doing a preventive treatment for desert drywood termites, but not western drywood termites. I always tell people that you should treat all year long because the termites do not always get the memo about when they are supposed to swarm. The treatment is quick and easy to do, so why not just do it every three months and make sure you have it covered? That's what I do. Are you getting much odor from the Bifen XTX? Also, would you mind sharing where you get it from? Pesticides are hard to find in California because of the laws. I would like to share the supplier with others from your state. Thanks. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions solution pest and lawn. Every day after work I go home open garage. Grab my caulk gun and look for any cracks or holes to calK. I do this every day, I house is lotttlery full of caulk, every where I am paranoid?
@@GuysPestSolutions I order my stuff from Solutions pest and lawns, and Xtx kind of smells like “chemical” outside then it diss epates into the air. I will spray Bifentrin first 3 months then I will spray with Dipronil the following 3 months. I also foamed inside my wall voids with Boracare care and Profoam. 5:1 ratio , every 18 inches of studs. I’m doing what I can to prevent dry woods and eastern subs.
You violate the law and risk the pesticide police getting a no-knock warrant, kicking in your door, and hauling you away to serve a life sentence of hard labor in bug jail. Othe than that, nothing. Of course, I'm kidding, but you will be violating the law and spending a lot more money than is necessary. After the initial treatment with the Taurus SC, it is perfectly legal to apply Bifen IT every two months and that will give you wonderful protection, for a lot less money. You can apply the Bifen every three months and that is good if you have not had an infestation before, but if you have one, then your neighbors do as well, and a two-month treatment is probably a good idea. The Bifen will last three months, but that third month may leave it somewhat less effective. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions I appreciate your reply in very detail information. Thank you! I got another question on Bifen. I checked found the active ingredient is bifenthrin and has different brand and type like Talster P or Bifen in concentrated solution also has granules type like Talstar PL Granules. Question is any different use the liquid based(diluted and spray) or granules based? If the result or impact wise is similar then which one is more inexpensive way? Since homeowners do it ourselves cares nothing much than cost. Thank you in advance for your professional feedback!
@@arthur113113 The Bifen IT and the Talstar P are the exact same product. The only difference is that the Bifen IT it's a little less expensive and it has a slight odor to it, while the Talstar P it's totally odorless. The granules are for lawn applications only, but the liquid version can be used on lawns and structures. The granules are fine to use on your lawn, but it costs more and takes a lot more time and work, than simply spraying your lawn with the liquid. Personally, I treat my lawn every two months with Bifen IT. I will give you the procedure for it. If you are going to treat the house, you are supposed to use a tank sprayer, but I do know some people but do it with I garden hose sprayer. You're not really supposed to do that, but it is very fast. Anyway, if you are treating your house, then you want a treat around all windows and doors, up the side of the house from the ground about two feet, all cracks and crevices, soffits, and fascia boards. Be sure to soak the area really well where the house meets the soil, and you always want a treat two feet out from the wall on the ground. Not only will this take care of drywood termites, but just about every other kind of pest imaginable. I recommend using a specific garden hose sprayer that I know works, but you can use any brand that you wish. I will place a link below for both the sprayer and Bifen IT. I have found that these sprayers do not last beyond a few uses because they seem to clog up quite easily, even if you clean them really well. So, what happens is you end up just spraying water instead of pesticide. That is why it is a good idea to put a dye in with the pesticide, so that you know it is working. I will provide you with links to all the products. When the sprayer stops working, just buy a new one. They are not very expensive. Do not spray your house or concrete with a dye.
This application method does not require a lot of protective equipment. I recommend wearing goggles, rubber gloves, long pants, a respirator, and long sleeve shirt (If it's not too hot out).
The Bifen IT is too thick to be picked up by the siphon tube in the sprayer and therefore, it needs to be diluted. To do this, pour 4 ounces of the Bifen IT into the sprayer and then add enough water to fill it to the 32-ounce mark. So, that would be 4 ounces of product and an additional 28 ounces of water. As you are adding the water, swirl it around a bit in the container, so that it mixes as you are adding the water. Before screwing the sprayer onto the holding cup, make sure that the siphon tube is securely into the sprayer head. If the siphon tube falls out, then you will be spraying with plain water. Set the sprayer at 8 ounces per gallon. The labeled dilution rate for the Bifen IT is 1 ounce per gallon of water, but you diluted it 1 ounce of product to 7 ounces of water, so that means you need to apply it at a rate of 8 ounces per gallon. At this application rate, you will see the holding cup drain down fairly quickly, so you will know that it's working. If the product does not seem to be emptying out of the holding cup fairly quickly, then something is wrong, and you need to stop and figure it out. If the siphon tube is solidly in place, then it could be that the screen on the end of the tube is clogged. If that is clear, then put your finger over the bottom of the tube and turn on the water. If you do not feel the suction, then it's not working, and the sprayer is malfunctioning. You always want to clean the spryer really well after each use to avoid clogs. It's always a good idea to put a dye in the cup with the pesticide and that will show if the product is being dispensed. Just avoid spraying anything that you don't want colored, like concrete or the house. The color will wash off the lawn and plants when it rains. You really don't need to use so much dye that you actually color the grass. You just want enough color so that you can tell that the pesticide is being picked up by the siphon tube.
Attach the sprayer to a garden hose and you are all set. Set the sprayer for a downward fan spray and spray your entire lawn, ornamental plants, and garden. Again, if you use the dye, then do not spray concrete. Otherwise, I would spray the entire property from the house out to the property line.
Pro tips: To make this application quicker and easier, I recommend that you buy 100 feet of one of those super hoses that you see advertised on TV all the time. They are lightweight and make the job go a lot quicker and easier. Also, if you attach a quick disconnect to both the sprayer and the garden hose, it makes refilling the sprayer a lot easier and quicker. These hoses require that you have a shutoff valve at the end of the hose where the sprayer is located, so that you can shut the water off prior to removing the sprayer. Most of the hoses have a shutoff valve built in, but not all of them do. If you buy one that does not have a shut off valve, then you need to add your own. I will place links below for all these items. Please note that these hoses should be stored inside because they deteriorate fairly quickly when left in the sunlight. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide If you cannot get the Bifen IT from Solutions Pest and Lawn, then try domyown.com: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=11662 Sprayer dye for lawn: www.solutionsstores.com/turf-mark Garden hose sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B00UER1S64?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Garden hose: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SYT173G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quick connect fittings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QG6F3Z3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Shutoff valve: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZYGVFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not a good idea to use Taurus SC in the attic. I recommend treating all the wood in the attic with Bora-Care. I talk about that in my video on how to treat drywood termites yourself, and I show you how to use it. I have a link to it in the description of that video to the product. Make sure that you mix it one to one with water. The best part is that it lasts forever. Be well my friend. ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Yes. This is a fipronil product and it will work well for termites. However, you need to use it correctly for the species you are trying to treat. Most people fail because they use the product incorrectly for the target species. If you have drywood termites, the only way to treat them is to fumigate. Pesticides will not work. You will kill some of them, but many will go on eating your home. Please let me know if you have drywood termites and I will give you additional information. If you are unsure of the species, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. It's not as hard as you may think. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
I am so sorry that you're having this problem and that you have MS. I'm sure you are a very wonderful person and you certainly do not deserve this kind of treatment. Not only is your landlord an idiot for treating you that way, but it also doesn’t make sense. If there are drywood termites in your apartment, then they are busy eating away at the walls and maybe even the floors and roof structure of the building. This will end up causing the landlord thousands of dollars in repairs if they don't get rid of the termites. If your landlord does not believe the problem exists, then perhaps you should call a pest control company and get a free inspection. If the pest control company confirms the existence of drywood termites, then you can simply give the estimate to the landlord as proof that the problem exists. This may inspire them to get their own inspection done.
If your furniture is infested with drywood termites, then a lot of it can be treated with a can of fipronil foam. All you do is shoot the foam into all the kick out holes for a couple of seconds, or until the foam is coming back out at you. This is pretty easy to do for most furniture, but it can be a little challenging for upholstered furniture because the wood is often concealed by the fabric. The problem is though that the termites are going to continue to attack your furniture because they are living in the woodwork and maybe even the drywall around the apartment. Therefore, about all you can do is just treat the furniture when you notice the kick out holes or frass.
I am so sorry that I do not have a better solution for you. There is only so much tenant can do in this type of a situation. Please do take care of yourself as best you can. Be well Robin. Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Guy, Some of my neighbors claim a certain local Pest Control company will do a ONE TIME only treatment inside for dry wood termites (not the subterranean type which this company treats with Sentricon.) They charge a lot of money for this ONE TIME treatment. My question is have you ever heard of such a claim?
Yes. There are a number of ways to do a one-time treatment and I am planning to have a video out on all the available treatment options for drywood termites sometime in early March. The truth is though that the only way to guarantee total elimination of a drywood termite infestation is to tent and fumigate. All the other methods, including the way I show you how to do it, are not a sure thing. Still, there are microwave treatments, total Bora-Care treatments, fumigation, and spot treating. They are all one-time treatments. The only one that claims to be a permanent solution though is the total Bora-Care treatment where they literally cover all the wood in the home with Bora-Care. Since all the wood is treated with Bora-Care and since this is a permanent product that never loses its effectiveness, in theory, you should never get any kind of termites ever again, including drywood and subterranean. It sounds good, but I cannot vouch for its effectiveness. I think it could work very well, if it is done correctly, but I'm not sure that all companies that offer this treatment will do a perfect job. You cannot leave any wood untreated and all homes have some areas that are hard to access. Nevertheless, this could be a very good option. I will place a link below, so that you can see how they do it. I hope that helps. ruclips.net/video/kXQTc9wwCfQ/видео.html
Help I’m a tenant with a termite infestation and my landlords refuse to believe it and refuse to exterminate! All of my furniture is totally ruined! I have multiple sclerosis and I’m very sick. I’m faced with losing everything I have and basically being homeless. I worked my entire life up until the point that I become too sick. I’m not a lasy person I’m sick. I just learned that I have mold as well. I can’t have my apartment exterminated without my landlords approval. They refuse to do anything. Renters need more rights! Please help
I am so sorry that you're having this problem and that you have MS. I'm sure you are a very wonderful person and you certainly do not deserve this kind of treatment. Not only is your landlord an idiot for treating you that way, but it also doesn’t make sense. If there are drywood termites in your apartment, then they are busy eating away at the walls and maybe even the floors and roof structure of the building. This will end up causing the landlord thousands of dollars in repairs if they don't get rid of the termites. If your landlord does not believe the problem exists, then perhaps you should call a pest control company and get a free inspection. If the pest control company confirms the existence of drywood termites, then you can simply give the estimate to the landlord as proof that the problem exists. This may inspire them to get their own inspection done. If your furniture is infested with drywood termites, then a lot of it can be treated with a can of fipronil foam. All you do is shoot the foam into all the kick out holes for a couple of seconds, or until the foam is coming back out at you. This is pretty easy to do for most furniture, but it can be a little challenging for upholstered furniture because the wood is often concealed by the fabric. The problem is though that the termites are going to continue to attack your furniture because they are living in the woodwork and maybe even the drywall around the apartment. Therefore, about all you can do is just treat the furniture when you notice the kick out holes or frass. I am so sorry that I do not have a better solution for you. There is only so much tenant can do in this type of a situation. Please do take care of yourself as best you can. Be well Robin. Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Thank you for this! What do you think about Spectracide Terminate Termite Killing Foam? The Ingredients are very different from FiPro so I wonder if it'll work.
Spectracide Terminate Termite Killing Foam will not work because it kills too quickly. You don't want to kill the termites right away. You need to give them time to spread the pesticide around the gallery to the other termites and the queen. Fipronil works best for this, which is why virtually all the professionals use it. If you cannot get FiPro, you can also use Termidor Foam. Same thing, but I like the applicator tip better on FiPro. You can only get FiPro from Solutions Pest and Lawn because they make it, but you can get Termidor Foam from domyown.com. Solutions P&L does not ship to a lot of places that domyown.com will ship to, like California. By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11. I hope that helps. Be well Flavia.
@@GuysPestSolutions One more thing! How about Fuse Foam www.solutionsstores.com/fuse-foam?sku=CSI200&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwgdayBhBQEiwAXhMxtl0Mnvjsxxypxv1bbQpUd6mJSOHY9A-hXCQ-RNYfoinTKV8SKvrBdxoCB_wQAvD_BwE#156=2982
Thanks. Should be fun. The Fuse Foam works okay, but I like pure fipronil better. Fuse is a combination of fipronil and imidacloprid. I think it's okay to use though. Still a slow kill and non-repellent. Fuse is usually a bit less expensive as well. I don't use it myself, but I think it will work just fine. Be well Flavia.
I have a dead mango tree in front of my yard, which is termite infested. Earlier I ignored the termites as I was unaware of the damage they can do till they found a way inside my home and started to come out of the RCC walls and cemented floor. Now I have Bayer Premise. Can you please guide me on how to wipe out the termite colonies. I have already dug a trench around the tree and poured about a 10 gallons of water mixed with Premise in the ratio of 2.1ml/litre. I have also injected the tree holes with the same solution. I don't have any wooden furniture inside the house, it's just the dead tree and probably the dead roots that run under the foundation of my home. Thanks in advance.
Please tell me where you live. When it comes to termites, location matters. Keep in mind that when you trench, you need to also treat the backfill dirt. Are the walls just concrete or are they covered with drywall? It is very unusual for termites to come out of a wall, unless they are building a carton. So, we need to identify the species. If you see any more of them, try to obtain one with a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. At that point, we can figure out what it is. If you cannot find one with a red head, then please find any specimen you can. You can email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and send the photos there. When you write, be sure to explain again what is going on. I get a lot of email. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I’ve had a pest control company here in southwest Florida for my home for 15 yrs. They never completely got rid of those tiny ghost ants and for the last Few years the ants have gotten worse. After watching your video on eliminate ghost ants, I followed your instructions about baiting them…I am happy to say they have been gone for almost a year. I know they were living in the house because of so many areas they were in our home. Thank you so much for your instructions. Needless to say we no longer have a pest control company. We do it ourselves. Thanks again.
Thank you so much for those kind words. It was very kind of you to take the time to provide that feedback and it is very gratifying to hear. You made my day. Be well Sandy.
What chemical do you use for drywood treatment?
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, RUclips did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
he's telling the truth he helped me out, communicated with me multiple times, and since then none of my termite indicators have went off and havent seen a sign of them either - brother knows his stuff! Thanks Guy!
Thank you so much for those kind words and for watching my videos. I love it when I get feedback, either good or bad. I prefer good, but I also want to know when things do not go well. It is very gratifying to know that things worked out for you. Be well my friend.
Yeah, man. I've never met such a genuine RUclipsr. Great guy, Guy is.
I've been watching several of your videos the last few days. Way beyond pest control advice, your general advice - for hiring professionals and DIY (for anything) - is invaluable. You've really given me confidence to take control of my affairs. I generally am more afraid of hiring a pro than the problem itself!! We recently saw dry wood termite swarmers emerging from the ceiling. This had happened 4 yrs ago. We hired a company, but having listened your info and other further research, I can see how little they really did. I am FAR more confident that I will be able to do a much better job thanks to you! I can't thank you enough for your generosity of time and advice and for your thoroughness. Knowledge is power 💪 😁
What a truly wonderful comment to make. Thank you so much for those kind words. You are the reason I do it. Please call on me anytime you like. I am always happy to help.
Be well my friend.
This is an example of an amazing person. Thank you for all you do.
That is so very kind of you to say. You made my day. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions you are truly a rare case in the RUclips world.
@@yeeebayeeba4268 That is very kind of you to say. Very much appreciated. After you get all of this resolved, if you think I did a good job, then please pass me along to others who may also benefit from my services. That would be the best compliment you could possibly give me. You can be certain in the knowledge that I am always free and always happy to help.
@@GuysPestSolutions I truly appreciate the time you've taken, not only to respond, but respond with such sincerity.
As per your request to see if they were the 'red' drywoods or not, they were indeed red. What had me concerned is that I have just recently decided to list the house for sale. This is turning into a nightmare.
@@GuysPestSolutions Of course. I'd be honored to send others your way. Your knowledge is not really a concern as I can tell by your videos, you have extensive experience and knowledge in the field. I'd take your advice without worry.
Another phenomenal video. I hope you know Sir how valuable these videos are to the lay person. Regards, from FL…..
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Interesting how you said most DIYers fail because they only do a light spray outside the perimeter of their homes. Meanwhile my neighbors pest control does an even lighter spray before jumping on his van and going to the next property. Definitely reminds me why I rather do things myself to make sure they're done with care and quality since it's for my house and not just another clients
Some of the pros don't understand that there are bugs that breed where the foundation or slab meets the ground, so you need to get the pesticide into that area really well. Also, how many bugs do you see walking across the top of the grass? They are generally traveling on the dirt, which is below the grass, gravel, mulch, and so forth. Unless you just have bare dirt from the house about 3 feet out, then you need to get the pesticide down to where the bugs are actually located, or they will be crawling under it. A light spray on the building is fine, but it won't work well on the ground. If you stop and think about it, isn't this just common sense? You can't help but wonder how a licensed pest controller is not aware of this. You are right though. I see it all the time. I have even watched videos on it, and it just leaves me scratching my head. This is one of those things that is easy to do yourself. You will do it better and it will save you a lot of money. Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions I 100% agree thank you again for the great video and for the comment! God bless
@@ericg5877 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Thank you for your time & talent Guy. As a recent SoFlo widow, I'm obsessed about finding "smart" ways to preserve what I have & cut the budget - Pretty sure I've got the little buggers and I ALMOST called a few companies to come out... but then stumbled upon your videos... I watched a few of them, so I think I'm gonna be set. Time for me to get to work! Again, a gracious thanks for your effort & sharing your expertise!
I am so sorry that you lost your husband. I cannot imagine how difficult this time must be for you. The last thing you need is to be dealing with any sort of infestation. I would be more than happy to assist you. You are commenting on my drywood termite video. Does that mean you are certain that this is the pest that you are dealing with? The first step with pest control is to make sure that we are going after the right species. Would you mind sharing with me what you are seeing? With a bit more information, I can probably save you some time and money. I will certainly do my best to make this as easy as possible for you.
Again, I am so sorry for your loss. Be well Kim.
Thanks! I'm out of work, so this is my limit now,
Thank you so much. You really didn't need to do that. My mission it to help folks who are out of work. It's all about making this affordable for you. I really do appreciate what you did, but please take care of yourself first. I hope that you get back on your feet soon. I have been there and I know how it is. Be well my friend.
Every 3 months I make sure to come back to this video for a refresher. Thanks Guy!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for your service, sir!!! You’re a godsend!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
WOW, thanks Guy. I had NO IDEA about the dangers of buying and bringing into you home used furniture.
Yes. I have seen many people get infested with drywood termites, German cockroaches, and even bedbugs, because they brought used furniture into their homes. You can inspect solid wood furniture fairly easily, but it is much more difficult to inspect upholstered furniture. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I appreciate your expertise and videos. I would like to ask how do i get rid of dry wood termites discovered yesterday in my unfinished basement beams. A few beams are hollow and a few window sills shows holes and frass. I appreciate your direct response. Thank you
I’m so sorry that you are having this problem and I'm sorry for the delay in responding. I am on vacation at the moment, and I am on a cruise, so I don't always have internet and often I am doing vacation stuff. My wife and I have not had a vacation in over 13 years, so it was time. I will be home on June 11, so I can answer any additional questions you may have at that time.
Are you sure that these guys are drywood termites. It takes a very long time for drywood termites to do a lot of damage, so make sure that you have the species correctly identified. If these are drywood termites, then it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Attachments area
@@GuysPestSolutions wow Thank you so much Sir. Sorry to interrupt your vacation. Sounds like it’s well deserved for you both. I appreciate your time and details in your response. Of course I’m not happy that I can’t wave a magic wand and get these critters out of my house. So far only evidence is the he window sills in front of my house directly facing my garden bed. I thought they were carpenter bees. Treated with a Home Depot product and they went away a few weeks, now seeing frass. I had a termite inspection which was included in my new signup for pest control. And he told me they are termites and also pointed out that the unfinished basement boards are infested. We did locate the crack in foundation at back of the house which directly leads to those support boards. I am planning to do the every 60 day treatment you introduced to keep them out of the house, I just wasn’t sure how to get them out the boards without paying the hefty price. Especially since they may return after. You scared me about the attic. 🫣
@@GuysPestSolutions Also wanted to say that the basement wood has been unfinished since the house was built in 2015. I guess I will start by asking my neighbors if they are experiencing this. We all have a mini forest behind our homes .
@@MsLatoyanelson I'm taking another vacation from my vacation for a few minutes. Lol. I just want to make sure that the frass you are seeing is from drywood termites. I would be a really bad pest controller if I didn't make sure that you are treating the correct species. I would love it if you could send me a photo of the frass. If this is drywood termites, then the frass should reappear every time you remove it. Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and use that same technique to photograph the frass. You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I will have a look at them when I get home. Don't worry. If these are drywood termites, they are very slow eaters and it take years for them to do significant damage, so you do have the luxury of time. Drywood termites are very different than subterranean termites. Drywood termites attack from the air, so cracks in the foundation and stuff like that doesn't matter with them. Subterranean termites attack from the ground and so you need to treat them in the ground. You only fumigate for drywood termites and not subterranean termites. So, eliminating subterranean termites is usually something you can do yourself for under $100. Do you see what I'm saying? I don't want to send you down the fumigation path that costs a lot of money, if you have a problem that you can treat for a fraction of the cost. Since you have some time, let's make 100% sure that we identify the species correctly. If you do need to fumigate, then I will show you how to get the best possible price. I promise that I know what I am doing, and I will take very good care of you. When you send the photos, please remind me who you are. I get a lot of email and most of it is about termites this time of the year because it is swarming season. So, I want to make sure I know it's you. Just give me you RUclips name.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to photograph a bug: ruclips.net/video/I8qd63hX6y8/видео.html
Hi Guy! Finally watched your video and read your request to post here before using your email. This is excellent and I will do this absolutely. Thank you!
Smart decision. If you live in an area where drywood termites are present, then you only have three choices. Do the treatment in this video, move, or let your home get eaten by termites. It's pretty much that simple. I wish more people would watch this video. As far as I know, this is the only one that shows how to prevent drywood termites, but there are not a lot of folks watching it. I find that somewhat surprising because drywood termites are a huge problem in warm areas of the country. So, please pass this along to anyone you know who may also have the same problem. Thanks.
Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Will do. Thank you!
@@JohnSmith-jf3pj 👍👍
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy, what if I have weed barrier under rocks around the exterior bottom wall of my house? Would I have to move that out of the way to spray 18 in. to 2 feet of the ground?
@@JohnSmith-jf3pj If you used a weed barrier that is designed for this purpose, those are made so that water will flow through them. Therefore, pesticides will flow through them as well. However, if that weed barrier is simply a polyethylene plastic, then the pesticides are not going to penetrate through it. Don't worry though. It doesn't matter for drywood termites because they do not travel underground, so there would be no reason to disturb the barrier.
However, if you wish to treat or prevent subterranean termites by using the granules that are depicted in my DIY Termite Treatment video, then you would need to remove polyethylene plastic before applying the granules. I always recommend doing both the drywood termite treatment and the subterranean treatment, if you live in an area where drywood termites are prevalent. That is because subterranean termites also live in areas where there are drywood termites and some of those subterranean termites may even be Formosan. Formosan termites are really bad. In fact, they are often referred to as “super termites.” That is because, unlike other species of termites, these guys are ferocious eaters and can do a lot of damage in a very short period of time. If you apply the granules around your home, then that will prevent them from literally eating you out of house and home. I will provide a link to that video below.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
DIY Termite Treatment with granules video: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Thanks for sharing your knowledge,,, Best Regards
You are very welcome. Please let me know if you have any questions. Be well my friend.
Don't have to wait till evening or noon is ok? Not to dry out too quickly. Thank you for your time and knowledge.
It does not matter how fast the product dries. You can apply it any time you like. Just make sure that you apply it at least 2 hours before it rains. Days when rain is not in the forecast are always best. After it dries it will not get washed away by the rain, but I can get washed away if it is still wet. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi, Guy. Thanks a bunch for the wonderfully informative videos. What products can a Southern California homeowner use to prevent drywood termites? Both Taurus SC and Talstar P can't be shipped to CA consumers. We have noticed one or two swarmers recently near light fixtures outside our new construction home and would like to do everything we can to protect it. Thank you!
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them will attack your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. That means, if you have seen swarmers, they may be inside already. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as the house was there. So, you cannot rule out that you have an existing infestation in the early stages.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. You may not know for some time, so just keep an eye out for frass. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money, should the need arise. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Since you have a new home, then you are wise to begin doing it right now. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a new video on how to do that more efficiently and I will place a link below. For drywood termites, you do not need to treat the yard. Just the house. You can obtain the Bifen IT or Bifen XTS from domyown.com. I will give you links to both products.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Bifen IT: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html
Bifen XTS: www.domyown.com/bifen-xts-p-1236.html
Thanks!
Thank you so much. That was very kind of you. Very much appreciated. Be well Lilly.
If located a drywood series of kick outs, suggest a spot treatment please, great video on prevention will incorporate but have an active swarmer being attracted to the frog tank black light at night.
First, make sure that these are actually drywood and not subterranean. I will give you a link to my video on how to identify termite species. If you confirm that they are drywood, then there is information that you need to know. Please get back to me if they are subterranean.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: How to Treat a Drywood Termite Infestation Yourself. A MUST see if you have Drywood termites.
Hi Guy, thanks again for a great video. Love the information you are providing the world.
You are very welcome. I appreciate your kind comment. Thank you so much for watching. Please let me know if you have any questions. I am always here to help.
Yes, he is great!
@@GuysPestSolutions hi. I got a question. I discovered that my Vinyl siding has tiny weep holes on the bottom, I guess it’s for condensation. Can termites enter through them?
@@joseleon7444 Most likely they can. It would depend upon the size of the holes. The bigger question is, "Can they access any wood that way?" I would not take chances, so I would treat it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions the holes are tiny holes underneath it, I once saw a “little butt” sticking out of one and I tried to grab it with my two fingers and it went inside the hole. 🤔.
Guy- is this bad that I cover them, aren’t they for condensation drainage???
Thanks very much for these informative videos. Could you please make a video to how to treat attics and what pesticides to use?
Cheers
How you treat the attic will depend on the target pest. For example, you would treat drywood termites much differently than you would spiders. If you are talking about drywood termites, then I do cover treating attics in my video on how to treat drywood termites yourself. I will place a link below for you. That being said, you should know that treating drywood termites yourself is not going to be effective. Even the best pest controllers cannot pull it off. The only sure way to get rid of drywood termites is to fumigate. You should only spot treat yourself if you cannot afford to fumigate. If you want the best price for fumigation, then watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. I will give you a link for that as well. You should also know that, if you fumigate, the gas they use has no residual properties at all, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. However, you can do a preventive treatment every two or three months. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. In the video I recommend three months, but doing it every two months is a lot safer. The pesticide does last three months, but it may not be quite as effective in the last 30 days. So, I treat my house every two months now. Remember, if you have drywood termites, your neighbors do as well. They swarm for several months every year, so you will get reinfested if you don't do the preventive treatment.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks for the detailed reply and links. Highly appreciated 🙏🏽
@@Captrez77 You are very welcome. Be well Reza.
How do you treat drywood termites and which chemical treatment is best? Please do a video.
I do have a video on that and I will give you a link to it, but it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hey, Guy - hope all is well with you!
Thank you for putting up your videos here in RUclips and helping us folks in dealing with termite problems - this is life-saving information!
I have been researching about Termidor dust and other products like it...they seem versatile and was wondering if you recommend it, and can do a video on it. Are they a good option to defeat a colony?
I have never used Terminator Dust, so I can't really say if it's any better than using Termidor foam. What I can tell you though is that there is no product that is going to effectively treat drywood termites. The dust may be as good or even better then the foam, but the problem is trying to find the galleries.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself, but it is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries. It is way better than doing nothing, but it will not end the infestation. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Years ago I moved into an old dry wood termite infested apt building with my then girlfriend (now wife). I brought a vintage wood framed couch with me. When we moved out over the next year we threw away her furniture as it was hollow and falling apart or we saw active kickout holes with frass. My couch seemed fine but a few years later I found a tiny hollow sounding spot with new frass. I disassembled the wood frame and made a heat treatment tent by covering it with an old blanket and blowing a space heater into an opening in the tented area for over an hour. I measured the temperature on the far side opposite the heater with a meat thermometer. It did the job. It took a while as I did each piece separately.
The trick is to blow the space heater into a small igloo like door and to open a smaller vent opposite to exhaust some air to get a flow through the "tent" of blankets. You can't just encapsulate the heater as they all have overheat shut-off sensors. You need a little flow but not too much to build up the temperature for the required duration.
The couch is still with us over 20 years later.
Very clever. Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
I recently had my roof redone and the roofer installed 2 new roof vents. Previously we had two and now we have four total, . I'm concerned that adding the new vents will make us even more susceptible to getting termites. Do you think it would be best to keep the number of roof vents to a minimum? I'm thinking about sealing off the two new vents or removing them completely.
You are correct that drywood termites can sometimes get into roof vents. It is going to depend on how the roof vent is constructed. If the vent features a fine enough screen around the inlet opening, and there are no gaps around it, then everything should be okay. However, if there is no screen or if the mesh on the screen is too wide, then that would be a fairly easy way for the drywood termites to enter the attic. Unfortunately, you cannot always just remove the roof vents or cover them. Your attic needs a certain amount of air flow or you are going to run into moisture problems up there.
There are basically two ways to address this issue and still keep the roof vents in place. The first thing you want to do is go on the roof and check to see if it has screening that is fine enough to keep out drywood termites. If it does, then you are already good to go. If not, then you can see if you can engineer a way to install a fine screen around the openings. The other thing that you should do, even if there is a fine screen around it, is to treat it with a pesticide every 60 days. You watched my video on how to prevent drywood termites. I have another video on how to treat the exterior of your house. This is a very similar video, except I also show you how to do it with a hose end sprayer. Actually, that video will show you how to use both a tank sprayer and a hose end sprayer. The part with the hose end sprayer is near the end of the video. The hose end sprayer can reach heights as high as 25 ft off the ground, depending upon water pressure. So, a lot of the time, you can pretty much just spray the vents from the ground. This is not always the case, but you may just get lucky. To do this, you need to use a different product though. to use a hose end sprayer, you must use Bifen XTS. The reason for that is the other products are not going to get picked up correctly in the sprayer. The Bifen XTS is a wonderful product, and that is really all you will need to do the exterior of your house. It does not last as long as Taurus SC, so you need to do it every 60 days, but if you do your entire house with a hose and sprayer, it is way faster. You are not supposed to do it that way because it exceeds label recommendations for the amount of pesticide you are supposed to apply, but I can tell you that it will not harm you or the environment. In fact, you may experience less overspray. I always treat my entire yard for bugs with the hose end sprayer, and since I already have it in my hand, I just go ahead and do the house as well.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to treat your yard with a hose and sprayer. (I included this, just in case you may want to consider treating your yard as well. It is a very good idea to stop other pests.): ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
I just bought Demand SC before I watched. Is it a good alternative to Talstar? Thank you so much for this video. I have learned a lot so far from you!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Demand SC should work just fine. You did well. Be well my friend.
You're looking well Guy!
Thank you so much. That is so nice of you to say. Made my day.
Thank you so much Guy! I was waiting for this video! And thank you for your help through email!
You are very welcome. It is always my pleasure to help. I am sorry that it took so long to get this done. I just had a lot on my plate for the last few months and I didn't want to do a rush job on it. It felt very good to get it finished and the responses have been so gratifying. I really do appreciate your kind comment. As always, I am here if you need me.
What should I do if dry wood frass kicked out of the floor boards? How quickly do they move and if I spray the holes will that kill them?
The first thing you need to do is decide if you are going to replace the floors or not. If you are not going to replace the floors, then shoot a fipronil foam, like FiPro or Termidor Foam into each of the kick out or exit holes for about 5 seconds or until the foam is coming back out at you. This should kill the gallery, but it is always better if you do a full treatment. The problem with doing the full treatment though, is that you need to drill holes. So, if you are not going to replace the floors then it is best not to drill holes. If you are going to replace the floors, then simply drill a tiny hole that is wide enough for the applicator tip to get in, every 4 inches along the infested area. Drill the holes about half way through the wood. Shoot the foam into each hole for 5 seconds, or until it is coming back out at you, or coming out the other holes that you drilled. Each hole should have foam either going into or out of it.
That being said, make sure that these are drywood termites and not subterranean termites. If you are not sure, then watch my video on how to identify termite species. If you are sure that they are drywood termites, then it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. The video you watched will show you a way that works great to prevent drywood termites, but I now have a faster way to do it and I will place a link below for it. You can do it with a hose end sprayer and it's a lot faster, but you need to use a different product. The hose end sprayer treatment method is near the end of the video. I use the hose end sprayer to treat around windows, doors, soffits, fascia boards, and so forth. It's a huge time saver, but you need to do it every 60 days. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. Just the house): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Thanks Guy. Is the Spectracide terminate foam a good product for penetrating the holes or Termidor preferred?
No. The Spectracide foam is not a good choice because it is a fast kill product and that is not what you want. Do it yourselfers like that fast kill stuff because they think it's working well, and that is why companies market it to homeowners, but the pros know that you want to kill termites slowly. The idea is that you want to take out the queen, so you need a slow kill product that will give the termites time to spread the pesticide around to all the termites, including the queen. So, I recommend that you buy either FiPro or Termidor Foam. I like FiPro the best, but they will not ship it to some states. I will give you the links. Be well my friend.
FiPro: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
@@GuysPestSolutionsreally a sound solution for dry wood termites. Most pest control guys assuring me that treating walls windows doors and ground prevent dry wood termites. But the reality is it could get into fascia eaves soffit etc
@@Dandanakka82 You are correct. In fact, it is very common for drywood termites to enter through the eaves. The reason the pest controllers will not tell you that is because they do not want to treat above their heads. When you spray the eaves you are going to get hit with some overspray. That is no big deal for you because you are only doing it every 60 to 90 days, so you will have very little exposure to the products. When you are finished, you can take a shower and you will be just fine. Pest controllers do this all day, every day, and they are concerned about long term exposure to pesticides. If they treated eaves all day long they would be covered in pesticide every day for years. Pesticides are not all that hazardous, but you wouldn't want to be covered in laundry detergent all day long for years either. So, for you, it's perfectly safe, but for them... Well, who knows? I have never met a pest controller that has gotten sick from pesticides, but it is a concern for them. So, most companies do not allow their applicators to treat above their heads. Now you know the truth. Be well my friend.
I've found damage in my fascia board around my house. (Southern calif. Coastal area) I dug out the damage, and usually spray some termite stuff, then fill the void with bondo or wood putty. (sometimes it's 3 feet in length!) Is this correct? Or are the termites still there? (Inside the wood) thanks!
I responded to a couple of your other comments that you attached to different videos of mine. Please let me know if you did not receive those responses from me and I will make them again. Also, if you have any questions about any of the advice I gave you, please do not hesitate to ask. I am always happy to help.
Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, this channel is a blessing for so many, thank you for what you are doing. I live in Florida too on the west coast and would like to know if I can spray for drywood termites over gravel landscape that borders around my home. The boarder is less than 2 feet wide and then there is large decorate stone that separates the gravel from the grass. Will the chemicals seep though the gravel into the soil, or should I just spray outside the gravel area where the grass meets the bricks 2 feet away from the home? Also, my manufactured home has skirting around the base of the home/crawlspace, it has tiny air-slits to vent the crawlspace. Should I spray the skirting too? Thanks again Guy.
The short answer is yes. You can go ahead and spray the pesticide over your gravel landscape and anything else you'd like. Modern day pesticides are designed to stay where you put them and they will not seep down into the ground very far. After they dry, they cannot be washed away. You should definitely spray all the skirting. Not only will this prevent drywood termites, but it will stop a whole lot of other bugs as well. Soak the area really well where the skirt meets the ground. Doing this has nothing to do with drywood termites, but it will help to prevent a lot of other bugs from getting in. Since you are spraying it anyway, you may as well do it right and go after the other pests as well. If you have any reservations about using pesticides, then please have a look at my video that talks about how dangerous it really is to use pesticides. I think you will find it to be a real eye opener. I will give you a link.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video about the truth regarding the use of pesticides: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions: Thank you so much Guy. I always wear a respirator etc., as my brother and I ran a family law firm and we specialized in toxic torts. Thank you again for all you do. Bless you.
@@garyrichards7580 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Great video! I just bought a new construction in Houston. I've only been here two weeks and I noticed what looks like worker drywood termites underneath the cabinets. I have a year warranty of a Pest company's work on termite control. A technician came out and said they don't handle drywood termites. I'm wondering if I should spray in the attic as well
I am so sorry that you're having this problem. By any chance did the technician that came out to visit with you check to make sure that these are actually drywood termites? If not, then I would recommend that you get a free pest control inspection and find out exactly what the species is. A good clue that you have drywood termites is if you start to see something on your floor or countertops that looks a bit like sawdust. This material is called frass and drywood termites are the only species of termite that produce it. If you have not seen any frass around, then these may not be drywood termites. It is important to get the species correctly identified because the treatment for drywood termites is totally different than the treatment for subterranean termites.
After you are certain that these are drywood termites, then you should know that the only way to be sure that you get rid of them is if you tent the entire house and fumigate. You can do things like spot treat, and I do have a video on how to do that, but spot treating for drywood termites is kind of like playing whack a mole. Just when you think you have found all the galleries, then another one crops up someplace. Even the best pest controllers are going to miss galleries. The galleries that you miss are going to continue destroying your home and they will continue to emit swarmers that will establish new galleries throughout your home. Oftentimes galleries are located inside your walls where you cannot detect them. It is very common for drywood termites to enter through the eaves and fascia boards that's around your home and then make their way into the attic and often down into the walls as well. Also, they often enter around windows and doors too. It is common to see them establish galleries in cabinetry and furniture as well. You already watched my video on how to prevent a drywood termite infestation and you must perform your first treatment a few days before you fumigate the house. This way you will be protected the moment the tent comes down. The truth is that fumigation has no residual action and so you can get re-infested literally the moment the tent comes down. The treatment I outlined in the video that you watched will prevent this.
If you cannot afford to get the house fumigated, then spot treating is probably your most logical option. You can farm this out to a pest control company, but the truth is you can probably do a better job yourself. I will provide you with a link to my video on how to do this. In answer to your question, yes, you must treat the attic. My video explains exactly how to carry out the entire treatment process.
I hope that helps. Please feel free to ask me all the questions you like. Be well my friend.
Video on how to spot treat for drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Hi Guy,
Thanks for the indepth reply. I got a second opinion from a different technician, as the first one seemed to not know what he was doing. The second technician said he believes what I have are Spring Tails. I'm still on the fence on whether to belive it or not so I may get a third opinion. It would be a huge relief if this is the case.
@@jonathanvazquez3446 Springtails do look a little like termites, but if you can catch one, then look at it under a magnifying glass. A springtail will have a forked tail, called a furculum, but termites do not have this appendage. Also, termites cannot be exposed to the air or they will die, so you never get to see them, unless they are swarming. Springtails do not have this limitation, so you can see them moving around in the open. Springtails are smaller than termites too. Most of the time, springtails do not survive in the home for long and just die on their own without requiring treatment. However, indoor infestations are possible. Often times you will find them where there is water in the home, like bathrooms and kitchens. To get rid of them, remove the water source and spray them with a pyrethrin. If you have potted plants, you may find them there as well. You can probably just spray them with Raid Flying Insect Killer, but if that does not do the job, then you can go with a professional product like Spectre PS. I will give you a link below.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
www.solutionsstores.com/spectre-ps
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks again Guy. It's hard to distinguish the two. The drywood worker termite looks very similar to the type of spring tail I may have. I do see these little guys near the windows at the front of the house where I have some small shrubs as well as near water sources like kitchen and bathroom cabinets. However, I also see them in the attic on the beams. I usually only ever see 2 or 3 at a time in an area.
@@jonathanvazquez3446 Trust me. You never get to see termite workers at all, unless you dig into the wood. Termite workers will not come out in the open air on their own. So, if you are seeing these guys walking around, then it is unlikely that they are termites. I'll bet, if you look at one close up, you will see that forked tail. Any pest controller should be able to tell the difference between drywood termites and springtails instantly. To you they look alike, but to us they look different. I'm guessing that the second pest controller identified them correctly right off. If you look at one under a magnifying glass you will spot that forked tail immediately. If you don't see that forked tail, then you need to get yet a third opinion. Again, just based on the fact that you are actually seeing these guys tells me that I should bet on them being springtails. I'm not sure why they would be in your attic, but I have seen all sorts of unusual things in this business. If they are drywood termites, then you should be seeing frass in the attic.
Hi Guy, I'm in Florida as well and have both subterranean and drywood. For the Subs I found mud tubes in the garage coming in from both sides and I removed them physically. They or drywoods have hollowed out he wood frame around the garage. They have also taken out a small palm tree in a garden area as well as I found a mud tube going up most of the length of a big Palm Tree. Any recommendation for that area or the big Palm? I have found drywoods in 2 places inside attic and 2 places so far on roof overhang in limited areas. 1) For the Subs, you seem to recommend the trenching (and not bait stations?). Do you recommend any injections into walls and, if so, can this be easily done by a novice? Will the trenched poison be toxic to cats,etc. after drying? For a situation like mine with recent evidence of subs inside, would you still also say to give the "Bio Advanced" granules a chance instead of trenches? If so, with granules, how often would you then repeat that treatment or then move to quarterly sprays as a preventative? I have about 8 inch brick pavers on the ground around foundation walls of much of house. Do I have to move all of those first if trenching or just leave. What about the driveway/ garage front area? I also have a screened patio which I believe you said I could continue to trench around. I have an outside patio area with patio stones and/or pavers on some areas there. What to do there? Is it Ok to just trench or granules on outside perimeter of that as well? 2) What about the drywoods in my situation? Is tent fumigation the only option likely to worK? ( I prefer not if possible). Guy, thanks so much for this offering.
It sounds like you have a lot going on there. I am so sorry that you're going through this. Let's try to unpack this one issue at a time.
Let's put the drywood termites on the back burner for a little bit. These guys are very slow eaters, and it takes a long time for them to do significant damage. Also, you need to address the subterranean termites before you treat the drywood termites. There is a very lengthy explanation for that, but please take my word for it that there is an order of treatment to follow with this stuff. Don't worry. We will be addressing the drywood termite issue.
The primary goal is to protect your home. In Florida, you may encounter Formosan termites. I would not be a bit surprised if this is the species you have. I say that because of the palm tree. Formosan termites are the only species that eats live wood. These guys are very aggressive eaters, so if you are dealing with this species, then that needs to be your priority. I cannot say for sure this is the species that you have, but it sure does sound like them. In any case, the first thing you need to do is to trench around your entire house and both sides of the driveway. I have a video on how to treat Formosan termites, and I will give you a link to it. I think it is reasonable to assume that the colony that is infesting your house is the same colony that is attacking the tree. Therefore, if you can take out the colony, that will end the problem with both the tree and the house. Trenching the house is the best way to go about doing this. There is a treatment that you can do for the tree as well, but right now I suggest that you focus on saving your house. Do not waste your time with bait stations. They are Hail Mary Pass at best for a non-aggressive species, and pretty much do not work at all for Formosan termites.
If you have Formosan termites, then the video will explain what you need to do with regard to treating inside the house. That may be nothing in your case because you will be fumigating.
After the trenching is finished, and the pesticide has dried, it is safe enough for children to play on. So, this will not be a problem for your pets.
The termite granules do not work for Formosan termites or drywood termites. Since there is a good possibility that you do have Formosan termites, I would not recommend using the granules.
If you have pavers that are against the house, you can usually trench just to the outside of them. Trenching directly against the house is always the best way to do it, but you can usually get away with trenching a little bit away from the foundation or the slab.
You do need to trench on both sides of the driveway, and you do need to trench around the patio. You should have a continuous trench from the street, going along the driveway, all around the house, and then back to the street again on the other side of the driveway.
I'm afraid that the drywood termites will require fumigation. I will explain all of that to you after you get finished treating the subterranean termites. Fumigation does not work for subterranean termites because they will simply reinfest the house from the ground. However, fumigation is going to help you if these are Formosan termites because those guys build satellite colonies in your walls that we call cartons. Normally, we remove these cartons by removing the drywall. However, if you fumigate, then that should kill off those cartons without removing any drywall. So, for now, just focus on getting the trench done. I'm going to also give you a link to my video on how to trench for subterranean termites. It is exactly the same information as trenching for Formosan termite, except that the video for treating subterranean termites is a bit more in-depth and better explained than the trenching part of the video in the Formosan termite video. I think it would serve you well to watch both videos.
Please let me know when you have the trenching finished, and I will explain how to get the best price possible on the fumigation.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thankyou Guy, much appreciated! I don't know why none of the companies contacted mentioned the Formosan termites except in their contracts where they excluded any guarantee on them?? I have ordered the Taurus SC but it will take until next week to arrive (after the weekend). I'm wondering how rain will affect the application? Will the termiticide effect the roots of plants? Also, if you get time, can you explain how to save the big Palm Tree that has signs of termite infestation and I saw many termites a year ago in the mulched garden area around the tree.? Also wondering if I should use this wait time to contact companies for the tenting? Is there any recommendations for toxicity reduction to humans after the fumigation? Thanks again for this awesome service
@@MrYousurf Many pest control companies don't waste time identifying the species. Only the really good ones do that. It's easier just to let your house get destroyed and exclude Formosan termites in the contract. It's a shame because it is not hard to identify the species. Rain will not bother the treatment after you close up the trench. I would not treat in the rain. Taurus SC will not bother the plants. The treatment for trees is below. Please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It can save you a lot of money on the fumigation. You can get pricing now if you wish, but don't let them talk you into treating until you are sure that the subterranean termites are gone. If they tell you that it doesn't matter, don't believe them. They have a financial incentive. I don't. So, I will give it to you straight. There are very good reasons not to fumigate until the subs are gone. The most important recommendation I can give about fumigation is to not trust them when they tell you that you can move back into the house. There are accidents every year because people go back in too soon. Wait another 3 to 5 days after they tell you that it's safe. They measure the gas level, but it's not always accurate. Also, bag all the mattresses in bed bug bags. You can get them from Amazon. The gas can linger in mattresses. If they miss it, then... Well, you can imagine what happens then. It doesn't always end well. The good news is that there is an agent in the gas that is put there to make you sick if the gas is not completely gone. They do that so you will leave if the gas is not gone. It is possible to sleep through it though, so err on the side of caution. This is a good time to take a vacation. If you don't have a security system, buy some Blink cameras from Amazon and put them around the house. Break-ins are common with tented houses. The cameras will send an alert to your cell phone. They may not like electrical stuff running during the fumigation, but you can turn on the system remotely the day after the fumigation is done. It is very easy to arm and disarm the system.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
TREES THAT ARE ALIVE
This is something of a Hair Mary Pass, but you can try drilling holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the tree that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the tree. You want to use a drill bit that is at least 12 inches long and at least 1/2 inch wide. The longer the better. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. You can also drill some holes down into the ground at a 90-degree angle, that are about 6 inches apart and fill them up with the Taurus SC as well.
DEAD TREES
Drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the tree that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the tree. You want to use a drill bit that is at least 12 inches long and at least 1/2 inch wide. The longer the better. Also drill holes right into the tree, a couple of inches above the dirt. You want them about 6 inches apart around the entire tree. Drill these holes in a downward angle toward the center of the tree. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. You can also drill some holes down into the ground at a 90-degree angle, that are about 6 inches apart and fill them up with the Taurus SC as well. There is a good chance that the termites will contact the Taurus SC and bring it back to the colony and share it with the other termites. This will kill the entire colony. If the colony is dead, then the termites will not be alive to attack your house. After the colony is dead, then remove the tree.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks Guy, A few questions... How do I know the Formosans are gone? I'm not sure I have any living in the house as they came into the garage on both sides of the garage door and did some tubes in that area and the tubes were destroyed and termites have not rebuilt after a month. I thought part of the reason for tenting was to kill the formosans if their were any? If not, might it work to have them do an attic treatment and spot treat the few areas on soffit outside for the drywoods? Three of the companies recommended doing that (and I would have guarantee with that for retreatment if necessary). Might be worth a try? (I may only be in the house for another year or so). I know the tenting is the only sure way to get rid of them.
On the trenching, I have so many walkways, porches, patios, and hedges, etc. that I wonder if the main point for me would be to get the continuous barrier around the house (and driveway) even if it is away from the house in some of those areas? In that case should I then do the preventative Taurus SC treatments next to the foundation where the trenching did not get too close, at the same time as the trenching? Also, how long after trenching should I start the preventative 3 month cycle of spraying foundation?
Thank you so much Guy
Hi Guy,, I wonder if you have seen this from University of Florida, ruclips.net/video/nQKWNDs8NhM/видео.html, where he recommends using above ground bait stations from Sentricon, (using currently Noviflumuron, and previously, hexaflumuron), which he says are the best way to treat asian and formosan termites in trees and houses? Any comments?
Hello Guy, the pesticides you recommend are unfortunately not sold in California. I was wondering if you have any product recommendations for me to buy here in California that I can use to follow your steps in this video. Thank you for the helpful videos. Be well.
You can buy whatever pesticide you like if you order it from domyown.com. Shhhhhh. Don't tell. They do ship to California. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thanks for your time and providing a detailed explanation. I have couple of question - I have high ceiling and found dry wood termite traces (powder on the floor) I called termite company, they put a hole and sprayed TERRO T1901-6. They are not 100% sure that they have correctly located source of termite place. They informed me that if it comes again they have to do fumigation. From your video you mentioned about outside of the house? can i use the same for inside of the house? Or is there any alternative to do it from inside?
First off, the company you hired used the wrong product and did not apply it correctly. Also, if these are actually drywood termites, then you do need to fumigate because they are not limited to just the ceiling. They may be in the walls and roof structure as well. Before you fumigate though, please make sure that these are actually drywood termites and not a different species. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. If they are drywood termites, then please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It can save you a lot of money. The treatment in the video you watched is for preventing drywood termites and it will not treat an existing infestation. If you do have drywood termites, then so do your neighbors. The gas they use to fumigate has no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested immediately after the tent comes down. Therefore, you need to begin the preventive treatment before the tent goes up and you need to do it every 60 days. You can do it every 90 days, but more often is better. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on hiring a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Guy, I'll tell you, I'm feeling a little bit pessimistic about stopping dry wood termites. How does spraying stop them from entering the large crack where the starter course shingle lays on the drip edge? From there, they not only have access to the unsprayed reverse side of the fascia and soffit (assuming they are wood) but also the wood 2x8 sub-fascia, rafter tails, wall top plate, and the rest of the attic, etc. And what about the attic vents in the soffit? These only have a screen to stop fly and wasp sized insects. This seems like a losing war. But you are a treasure of information. Thank you.
That is a great question. When drywood termites land on a surface that was treated with a pesticide, death will occur within a few hours, which is not enough time for them to establish a gallery. They generally need to land before entering any of the cracks and crevices along the roof line or anywhere else on the building. If you have really large openings, it would be a good idea to seal them up. I like to use Stuf-Fit. This is basically a copper mesh product that you can stuff into large openings. It is available from Amazon or domyown.com. Smaller openings should be sealed with and exterior caulk. Naturally, it is almost impossible to seal all the openings, but if you get the really big ones, then the termites will have no choice but to land before they enter, and that will be the kiss of death for them. If you want to be absolutely certain that they are going to die, then you may want to treat every 60 days, instead of every 90 days. They claim that the pesticides are good for 90 days, but obviously they are not as good in the last 30 days as they are in the first 30 days, so I treat my house every 60 days. I hope that answers your question. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I love your video's. My question is I have two dogs, so how long after I spray the ground and house will I be able to let them go outside?
Great question. You dogs will be perfectly safe just as soon as the pesticide dries. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.
I use Bifen XTX spray eeves, sills Siding, foundation. Fascia . Doors windows
So do I. It works great. Be well my friend.
I have a two story home. I'm getting older and do not want to do an extension ladder all the time. Do you have any tricks to get up on the high spots?
Yes I do, but I cannot talk about it here. Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and I will share some trade secrets.
I’m living in Los Angeles, California. I wants to use Taurus SC and Talstar to treat subterranean. Would you please show me where I can buy them? Thank you very much.
Do not use Talstar P for termites. Stick with the Taurus SC. I gave you a link to it and a link to my video on how to trench correctly. Make sure that these are subterranean and not drywood. You have both where you are. Be well Tuan.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions
Thank you for taking your time to respond and helping me about knowing those pesticides and how to use them. I really like and learn a lot of your clips. Thank you very much.
@@TuanNguyen-nj9uv That is so kind of you to say. Very much appreciated. I am always happy to help. Be well Tuan.
Hi Guy, thanks so much for the video on Drywood termites. I plan on using the information to do the exterior of my house. Can these two pesticides be purchased by Amazon or any other online store? Also, if I have seen signs of possible Drywood termites in the trusses of my attic, will this process on the outside of the building prevent further possible infestation? Thanks, Mike
I in CA have drywall termites in and out of my home too. Many ways to do, either spot treats, fumigation, or/and Bora-Care for prevention on exposed wood such as attic space. I have been seeing termite company guys this week and next for inspection, treatment options, and prices. Guy gave me a lot of tips on his emails.
Yes, the pesticides can be purchased from Amazon. However, I find that they are somewhat less expensive if you buy them from Solutions Pest and Lawn. The only thing is that Solutions may not ship to certain states, while Amazon may. California is a good example. Since most pesticides are illegal for non-licensed people to purchase, Solutions will not ship there. However, I am told that Amazon often will.
Unfortunately, the preventive treatment for drywood termites will do nothing to eradicate or even control a drywood infestation that already exists. It will only stop more drywood termites from entering from the outside. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the truth is that the only surefire way to completely eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to totally tent the entire house and fumigate it with a gas. Now, not everybody can afford to do this because it is quite expensive. The other way to go after these guys is to do spot treatments. The spot treatments are very effective on galleries that you have located, but the problem is finding the galleries. I have a video on how to do this type of spot treatment and how to find the galleries. I will place a link below for you. The thing you should be aware of though is that even the best pest controller in the business cannot guarantee that they will find all the galleries. So, it is not likely that you will either. Therefore, spot treating for drywood termites is kind of like playing whack a mole. No sooner do you treat one gallery than you find another one weeks or months later. This can be an ongoing process that literally never ends. If you watch my video on spot treating drywood termites, then you will get an idea of what I'm talking about.
I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Be well Mike.
How to treat drywood termites yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Solutions Pest and Lawn: DIY Pest Control | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com)
Hi Guy, do you know which pesticides are good substitutes for Taurus SC and Talstar P that I could pick up at home depot? The website says they dont ship to California.
You can purchase all the products from domyown.com. They have great prices, and shipping is always fast and free. Shhhhh. Don't tell anybody. Be well my friend.
I don't suppose there is any way to test the wood in my attic to see if it has already been treated with Bora-Care or similar product? Maybe a chem test on a small shaving of the wood?
Yes there is. You can buy a test solution that you put on the wood and it changes color if Bora-Care or other borate product is present. Sometimes you can use a black light too. The Bora-Care may glow under a black light.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Boron test kit: prginc.com/boron-indicator-test-solution-c-18_27/boron-indicator-test-solution-35-oz-p-27.html
If I want to spray my attic with a backpack blower do I need to turn off the Gas on my central heater? or what is the best way to trat the attic. I saw termite outside on my patio, but I want to do a full house treatment
Just to clarify, if you are talking about a backpack sprayer, like a garden variety sprayer, and you are applying a water-based product, such as Bora-Care, then there is no need to turn off your gas heater. However, if you are talking about a backpack fogger, then you definitely want to turn that unit off, especially if you are applying a petroleum-based pesticide.
All of that being said, just because you see a termite on the patio outside does not mean that you have an infestation. One termite, an infestation does not make. To estimate the probability that you have an infestation, I would need to have a look at the termite. If you did not dispose of the specimen, then I can have a look at it for you and let you know if it's a species that should be of concern. For example, you watched my video on drywood termites and if that guy was a drywood termite, then that may be cause for concern. However, if this was something like an eastern subterranean termite, then there is a good chance that there is nothing to worry about. If you can get a photo of it, then send it to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Always take the photo with the feet down and the back up. Get as close as you can to the termite, without getting the picture out of focus. If you no longer have the specimen, then have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where drywood termites are problem. If you live in the red area on the map, then you may have cause for concern. Still, all you know is that there are termites somewhere near your home, but you do not know the species. Most species are best treated or prevented from the outside of the building, so you would not want to treat your attic because it would be a waste of time. While drywood termites cannot be treated from the outside, they can be prevented from the outside. So, it is important to know what you saw and where you live. You may also want to do and inspection to see if you can locate any evidence of an infestation. In my video on how to identify termite species, I show you what mud tubes look like, what kick out holes look like, and what frass looks like. These are the things that you would look for to see if you have an infestation and what type of species you may be dealing with. You would want to inspect around the outside of the house for mud tubes going up the side. If you have a crawl space or unfinished basement, then you would want to inspect there for mud tubes, kick out holes, and frass. The same goes for the attic. If you do not see any of these things, then there is a good chance that you do not have an infestation. If that is the case, then I can tell you how to prevent all species of termites. Just get back to me and let me know what you find out. Most species of termites can be prevented for about $50 a year and about an hour of your time. Drywood termites can be prevented for about $10 a month and an hour of your time every two months.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
I have drywood termites in my front door (tent was done about 4.5 year ago and we do it about every 5 years anyway). Local 5 star rated (with thousands of reviews) pest control company quoted me $1200 for no tent option with a one year warranty where they will do the front door, attic and all around the home. I have two questions. 1) Would you recommend letting them do it or it is something I can DIY and 2) since it's only $1200 every 5 years (or $240 per year) for no tent wouldn't that be a better option then to be DIY for 5 years, risking health and buying and storing chemicals to DIY?
It sounds like the pest control company that gave you the estimate is planning to do some sort of spot treatment. $1,200 is pretty expensive for a spot treatment, so they may be planning to do something in addition to that as well. I have no idea what that would be, without looking at their estimate. If you like, you can send a copy of the estimate to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com, and I would be happy to have a look at it. That being said, it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. This is the reason you need to fumigate every 5 years. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. The pros cannot find all the galleries either when they do it. That is the reason spot treating is not a solution to the problem. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. So, the bottom line for you is that the treatment this pest control company is offering will probably help, but it is very doubtful that it will resolve the issue. You only get a one year guarantee, so they will charge you an annual fee to extend it. That fee will go on forever and it will never end the problem. So, your house will go on getting eaten during the entire time you are doing this. Regardless of what you decide, I would like to have a look at their estimate to see what they are offering.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites (Note that you do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. You only need to treat the house): ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Sir, what do you suggest to treat and stop termites in the walls? I had mud tubes come thru the wall at the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling. What do you suggest that I so? I live alone and am almost your age so it's just me here to deal with this I was told there was holes in my exterior wall back there and I plan on hiring someone to remove the exterior wall board and replacing the damaged wooden framing, but I need to do something now to get a handle on this I'm sure... Thanks so much for all that you do in giving us hope that there may be a light at the end of the tunnel.
Since you are seeing mud tubes, I think it's safe to assume that this is a species of subterranean termites. You did not tell me where you live, but the fact that you are seeing the mud tubes near the ceiling is very concerning. I often see that with Formosan termites, and they are a very aggressive species. Those things can destroy a house in a matter of months. It sounds like you are not physically able to do a lot of manual labor, and the treatment for these guys would involve trenching around the entire house. You would need to dig a trench 6 in wide and 6 in deep around the entire building. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect that is something you would not be able to do. Normally, I would suggest that you watch my video on how to identify termites species and my video on how to treat Formosan termites, but in your case you would probably be well served to call several pest controllers and ask them for a free inspection. Prices can vary quite a bit in this industry, so the more estimates you get the better. The pest controller should be able to tell you if these guys are Formosan termites. Keep in mind that when you get estimates, you should not consider, under any circumstances, going with a baiting system like the Sentricon system. A lot of companies are going to try to sell you that, but it is not effective for Formosan termites. They're going to tell you that it is, but they are incorrect about that. Formosan termites will destroy your home before the bait stations are effective. The only treatment you should be interested in is trenching around the entire house. The initial cost may be higher, but it will actually save you money in the long run. Please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. Please note that Formosan termites only exist in certain areas of the US. If you live in the US, then please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. There's a map in that video that will show you where Formosan termites are a problem. If you live in the red or orange areas on the map, then there is a good chance this is what it is. Otherwise, you may just have a more common species of subterranean termites that is fairly easily treated. Also, keep in mind, that if these are Formosan termites, then an interior treatment should also be done as well. Many companies do not do the interior treatment and it will not be included in the estimate. So, if these are Formosan termites, make sure you ask the pest control companies what their plan is to look for "cartons" inside the home. Naturally, the estimates that include the interior treatment are going to be higher than the ones that do not. Still, Formosan termites have the ability to colonize in your home, and so you do need to treat them inside as well. A pest control company that does not offer this service, simply does not know what they are doing.
I know this is a lot of information to take in, so please let me know if you have any questions.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Thank kyou for the tip on used furniture.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
After viewing many of your videos about drywood termite & professional inspections, we have fumigated the home last week and it was LOTS of prep work. I have a few questions hoping your expertise can shed some light on. Thank you Sir in advance !
1. the Talstar P & Taurus SC obviously spray onto painted fascia board & trim pieces, do they stay on the paint well?
2. any non-pesticide method such as repellent we can spray onto painted fascia board & trim pieces? This way it's even easier & less PPE needed.
3. drywood termites create small kickout holes in my fascia & trim, is that ok using caulk to patch them? removing fascia & trim is a lot of work and may create add'l damage in the process.
4. there are many PVC fascia & trim board available, would you recommend using PVC fascia & trim so this permanently solve termite & dry rot? I am afraid if drywood termite doesn't eat PVC fascia & trim, they will attack rafter tail directly which is even worse b/c I can't replace every single rafter with PVC.
I would be happy to answer those questions for you. The first thing you should know is that, since you already fumigated, you need to get going with doing the preventive treatment. I always recommend starting that before you do the fumigation because the gas has absolutely no residual action, and you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. For that reason, I wouldn't waste any time doing the preventive treatment.
All modern-day pesticides pretty much stay right where you put them. The Talstar P and Taurus SC are no exceptions. If you like, I can tell you a faster way to do it though, but you need to do it every 60 days. You can use a hose end sprayer and probably treat your entire house in under 30 minutes. That is exactly what I do and it is super fast. The only thing is that you are not supposed to do it that way because you will exceed label recommendations for the amount of pesticide that you were supposed to apply. However, it will not harm you with the environment. In fact, doing it this way creates a lot less overspray that can get on you. To use the hose end sprayer, you need to use a different product entirely. I have a video on how to do that, and I will give you a link to it. The new product is Bifen XTS. It has the same active ingredient as Talstar P, but it is more concentrated and has a very watery viscosity, which allows it to work well in hose end sprayers. The sprayer that I recommend has a stream setting on it that makes it perfect for treating places on your home that are too high to reach. The sprayer can reach heights up to 25 ft, depending upon water pressure. After this product is applied, you will not see it on the house. The only place you are likely to see it, is if you get it on Windows. It kind of makes them look dirty, but it causes no harm. In fact, having it on the windows helps to prevent drywood termites from entering. So, even though it does make my windows look a little dirty, I can live with that, but I cannot live with drywood termites. The video that I'm going to share with you will show you how to do this with both the tank sprayer and a hose end sprayer. The hose end sprayer application is near the end of the video. Do not be afraid of applying too much pesticide. When I treat my house, it is running off the fascia boards and soffits like rain. You literally cannot overkill with this stuff. The Bifen XTS may seem quite expensive to you, but keep in mind that it gets mixed at 1/3 of an ounce per gallon instead of 1 oz per gallon like Talstar P. Therefore, it goes three times as far. If you already purchased the Talstar P and the Taurus SC, that's perfectly fine. Those products will do a very good job. The only reason I use the Bifen XTS is because it makes the job go way faster and I can reach high places without using a ladder. Other than that, it really doesn't make any difference.
I would love to tell you that there's a natural way to prevent drywood termites, or any other pests for that matter, but the truth is the only way to do it is to use a pesticide that was developed for that purpose. Today's pesticides are safe enough for children to play on them after they dry. Pesticides got a bad reputation because of the kind of pesticides we used in the 20th century. Virtually all of those were banned in the late 1990s. We are almost a quarter of the way into the 21st century, and we now have 21st century pesticides that are perfectly safe to use. In fact, they are just as safe as laundry detergent. The reason we wear protective equipment is because you wouldn't want to spray laundry detergent on yourself either and you would not want to inhale it or get it in your eyes. Now would you? Still, you use it all the time. And don't even get me started on bleach. People use bleach all the time in their wash and it is way more hazardous than any pesticide that you can possibly purchase. If you would like more information about this, please watch my video on the subject. I will give you a link to it.
You can fill the kick out holes in the fascia boards with any type of caulking you like. I think what works best is Bondo. This product was developed for auto body repair on cars, but it works wonderfully well on wood too. It is easy to work with and it also sands down very easily as well. When you are repairing the fascia boards, push on them with a screwdriver to make sure that they are not hollow. If the screwdriver pushes through the wood easily, then that area of the wood should be replaced. Naturally, you can replace the fascia boards with a non-wood material, but that will not stop the drywood termites from infesting your home. The fascia boards are only one place where they enter and they always seem to find their way into the attic and the walls, regardless of what you do. Therefore, the best way to prevent them is to do the treatment that I am recommending every 60 days. If you need to replace any of the fascia boards, you can treat bare wood that has not been painted or sealed in any way with Bora-Care. I will give you a link to it. This will make the wood permanently termite proof. It will also protect you from carpenter bees as well. Remember, this is for new wood only that has not been sealed with anything. I recommend applying it to the wood prior to making the repair. Wait at leas 48 hours before you paint it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat the outside of your house with a hose and sprayer: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how safe pesticides are to use: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
Video on how to use Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Your Bondo idea is genius b/c caulk will cost way more. Similarly, could I also use stucco / drywall spackling paste b/c it comes with much bigger container?
Your Bifen XTS idea is a lifesaver b/c it will reach 2-story house so I don't need to climb up every 3 month. We greatly appreciate your advice & experience keeping us safe. Thank you Sir !
@@Brian_L_5168 Thank you do much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Spackling compound is water soluble, so it is for interior use only. I wouldn't trust it for exterior use, even if you paint over it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I’m in Clearwater Florida. I found termites (full bodies) and some wings on 1 window sill. I now have found 1 trim piece around a bedroom door that appears to have termite damage as it’s soft to the touch. Is there a way to identify which type of termite is working on my house?
Take a look at the body of the termite to see what color it is. If the head and body are solid black, then this is a fairly common kind of subterranean termite that is easily eradicated. If all or part of the head and/or body is a reddish color, then you have a more serious problem because you are looking at either a drywood termite or a Formosan termite. You have both species in your area. If these things are a reddish color, then they are most likely drywood termites, but you cannot rule out Formosan termites either. So, unless these things are solid black, I would ask a pest control company to come in and have a look at them. Almost all pest control companies would be happy to give you a free estimate and they will tell you what species you are looking at and they may be able to give you an idea of how extensive the infestation is. Please do not sign anything. Let the pest controller know that you will be getting several estimates, before you decide on who you want to go with. I can tell you, without even looking at the specimens that you have, that there is a high probability that you have drywood termites. If I am correct, then you should know that the only way to eliminate this problem is to tent the house and fumigate. You should also know that prices can vary tremendously in this business, so it pays to shop. Always get at least six estimates for fumigation, before you decide on a company. A lot of pest control companies are going to offer you a much cheaper option and they will tell you that they can spot treat your problem. These people are lying to you. While it is true that they can spot treat for drywood termites, there is very little chance that they're going to kill off all the galleries. They will tell you that they will give you a one- or two-year guarantee for their work, but the guarantee is totally useless. All they will do is return when you find another gallery or they may inspect every year and treat a gallery that they happen to find. In any event, you will never treat all the galleries this way and so the termites will continue to eat your house. In order to continue this process, the pest control company is going to want to charge you about $300 a year for them to continue to inspect and spot treat galleries and that process will go on virtually forever. Even though spot treatment it's going to be very tempting because it is cheap to do, don’t be fooled into thinking this is a solution to your problem. The only way you can eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. Now, hopefully I am totally wrong about the species and these guys are not drywood termites. Let's hope you get lucky and these things are totally black and represent a species that you can easily eradicate yourself for about $100. Either way, please get back to me and let me know and I would be happy to guide you further.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Sir, thanks for sharing all these important tips. As you mentioned ,ach chemical has to be used for 3 months .That is, a rotation has to be done with each one. will the solution last foe 3 month in case of rainfall or if the treated areas are regularly washed.
Taurus SC will last 90 days, but other pesticides will last more like 60 days, so I treat every 60 days with Bifen XTS now. I did not mention that in the video because I just recently switched to it. I apply it with a hose end sprayer because it is way faster that way. You are not supposed to do that, but it will not harm you or the environment. None of the pesticides wash off from the rain. If you are interested in doing that, just watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. Mix the product as shown and use the recommended sprayer. You won't believe how fast it is to do this way. Shhhhhh. Don't tell anyone I shared this. If you want to use Taurus SC, then you should alternate between products at least every 90 days. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
I built a cabin with a sub floor. Do I need to climb under it and spray that same treatment to keep dry wood termites from coming from under?
Great question. If you do not have an existing infestation, then just doing the treatment that I describe in the video will work just fine. Now, if you would like to make your subfloor termite proof, you can spray all the wood with Bora-Care. I like to mix it one to one with water. After wood is treated with Bora-Care, then it can no longer be damaged by any wood destroying pests. You can do this in the attic as well. I will give you a link on how to apply it and where to get it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to use Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Bora-Care supplier: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html?sub_id=554
I live in California, the Taurus SC and Talstar P you recommended on the link cannot be shipped to California, what are the alternatives you would recommend that can be shipped to California? Thanks!
You can obtain the products from domyown.com. If you want to save some money, you can use Bifen IT instead of the Talstar P. Same thing, but cheaper. The sprayers in the video are no longer available. I will provide links below for the pesticides and a good sprayer.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html
Talstar P: www.domyown.com/talstar-professional-insecticide-p-97.html
Bifen IT: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=11662
Sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3MKYWD/?coliid=I1WHD5A3RF25H9&colid=3VDXA5DFBKQ98&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Today I will spray to top of my house, windows, doors, and the skirting, along with where the skirting meets the floor and treat this about once a year between March and April when another exterminator said they are most active.
Drywood termites can swarm at any time during the year. Yes, they are most active at certain times, but they generally will swarm a couple of times during the year and they do not always adhere to your schedule. For that reason, I would urge you to do the exterior treatment every three months. You never know for sure when they will swarm and that's the truth.
@@GuysPestSolutions every three months spray, understood!
What is your recommendation on spraying windows and soffits on second floor without going up and down a long ladder every few feet?
You are not supposed to do this, but I do it with a hose end sprayer. Please watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. The sprayer in that video has a stream setting that will reach up to 25 feet, depending on water pressure. You must use Bifen XTS in the sprayer. It seems expensive, but it only gets mixed 1/3 oz per gallon, so it goes three times as far as other pesticides and it works well for drywood termites. In fact, that is what I use.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
Excellent info thanks
You are very welcome. Thanks for the comment. Be well my friend.
The battery-powered sprayer is out of stock. Do you have any other recommendations? I have also emailed you pictures and questions on how to get the HOA to agree to treat the building. I am a new owner five days post-close and super overwhelmed. I believe I have drywall termites. During inspection, only a bedroom was treated after visible frass, and a couple of weeks later, I found frass again in the treated area. I've called the company, and they will return this week. However, they mentioned they could not find a hole. But from the pics I sent you, it's clear there is a bigger issue in multiple areas. So I want to start preventative treatment while I gain HOA buy in for building treatment. I appreciate your guidance.
I take it that you live in a condo. Is that correct? If so, please send me some photos of the outside of the building. It's faster than trying to describe it to me. After I see the building, I can tell you if there is any way to treat this problem. I will look at the email you sent as soon as I can. Right now, I am backed up a few days. This is my busy season, but I will get to everyone. So, please be patient. I do have a way to prevent drywood termites that does not require a tank sprayer, but the HOA will never do it. You are probably on your own with this. I can assure you though that all of the units now have drywood termites. The entire building should be tented and fumigated, but they probably will not do that, even though this may cause a serious problem, depending upon the way the building is constructed. That's why I need to see it. In some cases, this is just a cosmetic problem, but in other cases you may get structural damage at some point that will cost thousands to repair. Sometimes, if structural damage may result, then the best thing you can do is sell and cut your losses. Hopefully, that is not the case here. I will give it to you straight when I see the building. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Do you think Spectracide is good enough for prevention? Also, what if the house is on a concrete slab and not on dirt?
Please watch my video on Spectracide Termite Stakes. With drywood termites, it doesn't matter if you have a slab home. With subterranean termites, the foundation type is not critical, but it does matter how much concrete you have that abuts the house. Please get back to me if subterranean termites are a concern and tell me more about the ground around the house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on Spectracide Termite Stakes: ruclips.net/video/UDzg-1lpynA/видео.html
Hi Guy, I don’t have Taurus SC but I do have Suspend SC. Can I use this pesticide as my first treatment? I have the Talstar P for the in between applications. No problem if I need to purchase the Taurus SC. Thanks much! Lynda
I think the Suspend SC is okay to use, but the Talstar P is a better choice if you do not have Taurus SC. So, if you have Talstar P, then I would use that and I would order the Taurus SC for the second application. That is just my opinion. I'm sure there are pest controllers that would argue it with me. Personally, I think suspensions are best used indoors. Yes, Suspend SC is labeled for outside use, but I don't think the residual is as long as Talstar P. Also, I'm not sure that the Suspend SC is even labeled for termites. It may be, but I don't happen to have any on hand to see. I am sure that the Talstar P is labeled for termites. Take a look at the target pests on the label to see. If termites are listed, then it's probably fine to use. Again, my personal experience is that the Talstar P just lasts longer. I have not exactly conducted any scientific studies on though, so I cannot make this claim with total certainty. Just my personal experience. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Be well Lynda.
Hi Guy, what about diatomaceous earth? I heard termites and other bugs carry it with them and spread it throughout the colony? Thanks so much for your videos!
Diatomaceous earth is not effective against termites. Yes, this will kill a termite, but the problem is getting it to the termites. Subterranean termites travel underground and that is where you need to place the termiticide in order to kill them. Since subterranean termites must return to the colony fairly often to obtain moisture and to feed the rest of the colony, they pass through the termiticide that is released by the granules and they share it with the other termites in the colony. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. It is important to note that subterranean termite colonies are always in the ground and never in your home. They only stop by your house in order to eat because your house happens to be their favorite restaurant. So, the bottom line is that diatomaceous earth is not going to work. The only reason why the granules work is because they release a termiticide that leaches into the ground after you water it in. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Awesome, thanks so much!!
@@cassemg You bet. Always happy to help. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, How should a chemical be applied to facia that is out of reach as in a multi-story building for Drywood termite prevention? + Do you recommend trenching for subterranean termites for a house purchased 1 year ago (30 miles north of Atlanta in No. GA). The house seems to have been trenched before (spaced drill holes in concrete), but not sure when this was done. No visible evidence of active termite infestation (by my untrained eye) aside from a couple of questionable spots inside the house on window frames which may have been treated before.
Drywood termites do not exist where you live, so no need to treat the eaves for that particular pest. You could treat the eaves for other things, like brown recluse spiders, wasps, and that sort of thing. There is a way to do that from the ground, but I prefer not to explain how it's done in the comment sections of my videos. I would be happy to share it with you if you write to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. When you write, please tell me your RUclips name, so that I know who you are.
As for other termite species, you basically have two kinds of termites where you live, and they are both subterranean. While you do have Formosan termites in your area, they are fairly uncommon. The most likely species that you will run into are Eastern subterranean termites, and they are easily prevented by just using termite granules. I used to live just north of Atlanta and I wiped out an infestation in my house using these granules. They work very well, as long as you have dirt surrounding most of your house. I have a video on how to apply the granules, and I will give you a link to it. Just make sure that you use the correct granules. You need to get the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowe's stores no longer sell the correct granules, so if they do not have the ones with imidacloprid, then you can order them from Amazon. I will give you the link for that as well.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to prevent termites with granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_7&=&crid=3UG5VHBQKWV2Z&=&sprefix=termite
Thanks for your details. Anyway I am in process buying a house in Texas , after getting reports from home and termite inspection. They found there was termite in the closet area in the bedroom, but it is not active termite.
It is the only spot they found in the house.
The owner said he will take care that issue and fix that area, but I am not sure if I should buy that house or not, please help from your experience. Thank you sir
Thank you for reaching out to me. The answer to your question is a little bit complicated. The first thing that you need to know is the species of termite that you were looking at. Some areas of Texas have drywood termites and, if that is the species you were dealing with, then getting rid of them is going to cost a couple of thousand dollars. Just spot treating the area where they were discovered is not going to get it done. Drywood termites are typically found near the coast, so if you are living close to the Gulf, like the Houston area, then this could be a serious problem. However, if we are talking about Dallas, then this is nowhere near as serious. My recommendation would be to ask the termite inspector what species they discovered. Even though they don't think the damaged area is active, they should still be able to determine the species. If these are dry wood termites, then they should be finding kickout holes and possibly frass under those kickout holes. If these are subterranean termites, then the inspector should have found some evidence, like mud tubes, somewhere around the structure. If the inspector has no clue what the species was, then that inspector is probably incompetent and you would be well served to have the house reinspected by a competent inspector. I know that additional inspection is going to cost one money, but it is probably money well spent, because it is very rare for termites to just go away on their own. It is possible though because they may have come from the same colony that was attacking another house. If that house was treated for them, it may have killed off the termites in the house you are looking to buy. You don't see this very often, but it is a possibility. If these are dry wood termites on the other hand, then they do not colonize in the ground, but rather in the house itself. Therefore, they would have needed to be treated or the infestation would not be gone. To complicate things even further, you also have a species that exists throughout most of Texas called Formosan termites. These guys are very ferocious eaters and do a lot of damage in a very short period of time. I do not suspect that you have them though because it sounds like the damage was very isolated and minor. So, my advice is to figure out what species you are dealing with and if they are not drywood termites, then go ahead and buy the house. You can figure this out in part just by knowing where the house is located. I have a video on how to determine termite species and I will give you a link to that video. There is a map in that video that shows where drywood termites are a problem. If you live outside the red area on the map, then I think you are good to go. However, if you live inside the red area, then you would be well advised to make sure that these are not drywood termites. You can get rid of drywood termites, but it's going to require that you fumigate the house and that is going to be a little expensive. So, it may be the sort of thing that you want to have done before the closing. Naturally, this should be at the seller’s expense. If these termites are just a plain vanilla species of subterranean termites, then you can usually treat them for under $50 yourself.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to determine termite species: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you sir, i do appreciate your information. I live in East side of Texas. It is about two hours from Dallas.
@@chanthoubun8535 If you live up around I20 or I30, then you are way too far north for drywood termites. You are still in Formosan termite territory, but just based on the extent of the damage that you are reporting, I would not suspect that this would be the case. If the damage in the closet was caused by termites, then it is most likely that you are looking at a fairly common species of subterranean termites. In most cases, this can be easily treated with termite granules for around $50. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Simply repairing the damaged area is not going to end the infestation. You have to actually kill colony. The granules are effective in doing that about 95% of the time. Be careful not to purchase the wrong granules. There are two formulations of the granules that are made by the same company, but only one of those formulations is effective. I will give you a link below to the correct granules. Do not buy them Lowe's or Home Depot because most of those stores are now selling the wrong granules. So, the bottom line is that I would not allow this to stop me from purchasing the house.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat subterranean termites with granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k3_1_4&&crid=2FTDE6XXAAGZK&&sprefix=bioa
Subscribed .Can inject the termite trail with pesticide and spread boric acid in the ceiling?
If you are seeing a mud tube or an infested area. They can be treated with a fipronil foam. If it's a mud tube, just scrape off about a 2-inch section, down to the surface, and shoot the foam into the tube in both directions for a couple of seconds. To treat a damaged area that has an existing infestation, just drill holes that are 4 inches apart and wide enough for the applicator tip to get into. Drill the holes about halfway through the thickness of the wood and along the entire length of the damaged area. Then, simply shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until the foam is coming back out at you or is coming out the other holes that you drilled. You should have foam either going into or out of every hole.
Boric acid is not effective against termites. It will kill them, but there is not effective way to deliver it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions does fipronil foam have a transfer effect
@@lakibird21 I'm not sure what you mean by a transfer effect, but I can tell you that the termites do transfer the fipronil from one termite to another. So, if one termite comes in contact with the foam, and touches another termite, then that termite will also die. If the second termite touches another termite, then that termite will die too. That is why this product will kill off a gallery or even an entire colony.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions can it be injected into hardwood floors ? Thank you.
@@tracynoscar Any fipronil foam can be injected into a hardwood floor. If you are seeing holes in the floor, just shoot the foam into the holes for about five seconds or until the foam is coming back out at you. If the wood is just feeling soft, but no holes, you can drill small holes in the areas that feel soft, and then inject the foam. The holes only need to be wide enough for the applicator tip to get in and should only be drilled halfway through the wood. If you are going to replace the floors and you don't care about damaging them, then drill the holes about four inches apart and foam every hole.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
What battery sprayer(s) do you recommend to get up to the roof line? We have an issue under the fascia and guessing its 30 feet vertical. The link below is no longer valid. Plus the detail left a lot to be desired. Sprayers are a big part of this job.
If you don't mind deviating from the label recommendations a bit, you can use a hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS to do the same job. You are not supposed to do it this way, but when you have high places to reach, it's about the only option available. Please watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. The sprayer in that video has a stream setting that will reach as high as 25 feet, depending upon water pressure. So, you still may need a step ladder for some places, but that's not so bad. This video will also show you how to mix the Bifen XTS in the sprayer. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions - I binge watched the entire 1st season of "Succession" this week. But I spent more time watching you on youtube! You're saving me a lot of money my friend, so BRAVO! Conservatively guessing about $250 per hour.
We live within 2 miles of the coast in southern California. We noticed frass on the floor in one of the upstairs bedrooms. Immediately outside that area, in the same general vicinity, we noticed termite damage within the eve 25 feet up. No mud tubes. And as I pointed out in an earlier post we had someone paint our cedar fence and it exposed more termite damage. As you know, our flying hardwood termites swarm every fall and last fall was no exception. Therefore we are 99% sure we have hardwood termites. I want to add, we have small grand children and a dog, needless to say their welfare is paramount to us.
Here is our plan..... subject to an audible. We have already treated the wall above the frass with Termicide Foam targeting the nest and queen. We will also treat the eve damage with the same product. After witch we will diligently and continuously inspect for new nests and target treat the areas with T-foam. In addition, we will buy the sprayer, all the knickknacks suggested, the Bifen XTS, and spray everywhere; the eves, up the walls of the house say 3 feet, the ground, the fence itself and the ground below, etc. It could be overkill, but we are buying Bioadvanced granules to apply along the fence line and around the house perimeter. Does this sound like a plan? Please take total license to straighten me out, I'm thrilled to be guided.
@@wd229 Thank you so much for those kind words. I never thought it was possible that anybody would want to binge watch my videos. Very much appreciated.
It sounds like you do have drywood termites. It is a very smart idea to start doing the preventive treatment immediately. The termite granules will not do anything to treat or prevent drywood termites, but it is still a very good idea to use them. In addition to dry wood termites you also have subterranean termites where you live, and the granules are a good choice for preventing them. There are some things that you should know about drywood termites though. I don't recall if I mentioned this before, so let me go over it, just in case.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. This is why you need to do the preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions - I also hate being the bearer of bad news. People, skip all the videos and go straight to the tent negotiation video, save yourself hours of watching these videos. I cannot hide my disappointment after reading your reply. I watched 8 hours of video and should have watched less than 30 minutes. Your videos make it sound like you can save people money by using treatment methods for working around tenting. I made it crystal clear from moment one, I had termites in my walls, upstairs there was visible frass, and I already spot treated with T-foam. It doesn't take an exterminator to tell me I have termites and the specie. Who cares what specie they are if you're tenting, there's only 2 and I knew which specie was in the house. Now I find out I need to tent... and within a year and your telling me I'll have termites back.
99% of the people that come to your videos know they have termites. I know my neighbors have termites, their infestation is far worse than mine and they've have had termites for years, we all know it. You tell me Termite granules won't work but put them down anyway, huh? You need to cut to the chase, tent your house is all you need to tell people. As you say the termites will be back in a year. Buy a battery powered sprayer and get after spraying when you have time. End of video. TENT TENT TENT folks.
Tell me to do prevention every 60-90 days, are you kidding me! You sound like a dentist, auto mechanic, doctor etc. Do I floss after every meal, change my oil every 5k, stay away from beer, sugars and starch, of course not. If I followed protocol of every professional dispensing advice I would have no time for myself! I can handle getting and evaluating multiple bids, I've tented multiple homes.
It sounds like you are having a bad day. So sorry about that. It also sounds like you are very confused about termites. Please allow me to clarify for you. Not all termites are the same. Tenting only works for drywood termites. It does not work for subterranean termites. That is why you need to identify the species. In your case, it sounds like you do have drywood termites, but not everyone does. Also, not everyone knows that they have termites. I get questions all the time from people who are trying to figure it out. As for treating every 60 to 90 days, that is up to you. I am simply pointing out that you WILL get reinfested again if you don't do it. I don't make this stuff up. What I am telling you is a fact. You may not like doing it, but if you don't, then you are going to get reinfested. Just like, if you don't get your oil changed, then your engine is going to fail prematurely. Maintenance is just a fact of life. The termites are going to do what they do and I can't change their behavior and neither can you. So, your choices are to do the preventive treatment or live with termites. It's really not my fault. I'm just trying to help you solve your problem. I am also okay if you don't like the way my videos are done, but if you skip important information in them, then you are not getting all the information you may need. That may be why you didn't understand that you cannot tent for all species. I provide all that information for a reason. Not everyone needs all of it, but some people require different information than others, so I need to do a thorough job. It sounds like you are more frustrated with the termites than you are with me, but unlike them, you can write to me about it, and I do understand your frustration. Also, I care about you a lot more than the termites do. Be well my friend.
So I’m doing a room renovation and I found termites in the walls, how do I get rid of them 🙏
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Is Taurus SC safe to humans and pets once it dries? I just got my house fumigated. Now I'm terrified of getting termites again. Very expensive to deal with. Does the Taurus SC penetrate the wood studs in my shed so that it becomes unattractive to termites? Is Taurus SC the same as what the pest companies use? They charged me $800 to spray a product they said I could not buy as a consumer. They told me I'm protected for at least 2 years. But I want to spray more and do a more thorough job. I dont think they got every single area. But they said they did. Thanks
Taurus SC and most of the pesticides are safe enough for children to play on after they dry. That is an EPA requirement that was put into place in the late 20th century. Taurus SC does not penetrate the wood to prevent termites. It doesn't work that way. It is a surface treatment only. This is the same product that the professionals use except the stuff they use is Termidor SC. Both products are exactly the same. You can buy either product, but Taurus SC is a little less expensive. When used in trenching, these products will last 5 to 10 years. However, when applied as a surface spray you would be lucky to get 4 months out of them. So, the pest controller basically misled you. If you are using Taurus SC, you should be applying this product as shown in my video, at least every 3 months. You can treat unfinished wood with Bora-Care. This product will permanently treat the wood it is applied to and make it termite proof forever. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it. It is okay to use this product with cold water. I recommend mixing it one to one with water. Ignore the label recommendations to mix it one to five.
You can purchase just about any pesticide you want from domyown.com. They will ship to most states.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
I understand the trench method but what if your house is raised? Sitting in cinder blocks? Lots of homes in the south are made like this. Do u get under the house & Spray?? Or install baits???
It sounds like you are telling me that your house is on piers, so there is no actual foundation around the house. If that is the case, there are two ways you can go about it. The first way is to go under there every 60 to 90 days and spray all the wood. The second way is to do a permanent treatment under there with Bora-Care. This may be a little bit of work, but after you do it, you never need to do it again. The treatment literally lasts the life of the house, and it comes with the advantage that it will kill any existing termites that are in the wood already. To do the treatment properly, you need to remove the insulation, and spray Bora-Care on absolutely everything under the house that is made of wood. Then you need to replace the insulation. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to use Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html?pdpv=2
Thank u so much for your help. I found the nest. Today actually. Tore out the whole wall. Ac was leaking & the wet wood was a feast for them. Replaced insulation, 2x4's, 1×6 around the window, & caught it before they started in my wooden floors. No damage yet to subflooring. & yes house on piers. Definately gonna do what u recommended bc this was already a nightmare. Can't imagine if they did more damage. But will find out. Checking all moisture areas 1st. Thank u so much! Will continue to tune in. Kid u not, i prayed last week, asked God to help me save my house, found u a few days ago, & learned so much from ur vids, took ur advice, & im on my way. I have termidor foams, taurus sc, fuze foam, cypher tc, & will be buying the bora stuff. Thank u, thank u, thank u❤️ & thank the Lord above❤️
@@kaybegee Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I am glad that I was able to help. Be well Karina.
Hi Guy. I have purchased brand new house in dallas Texas. And company that build the house told me that they used bora-care on wood but only 3 feet up from the ground, so rest of the wood is not treated. So I have few questions :
1. Do you think that I should still dig the trench and use termidor?
2. How about drywood termites? Will they still be able to get inside of my house even if there is bora care on the wood on first 3 feet up from the ground?
3. Will that bora care on first 3 feet be enough for subterranean termites and formosan termites? Or do you still suggest using termidor sc?
Thank you for reaching out to me. I will do my best to answer all your questions.
If the company that built the house did the Bora-Care treatment correctly, then your house is termite proof permanently, and this treatment will protect you from subterranean termites only. However, since they only treated three feet up, this will not protect you from drywood termites. While that may sound horrible, the good news is that you are a bit too far north to encounter drywood termites. That being said, I did have one person from Dallas that told me they had dry wood termites. I think that would be a very unusual situation, but it could happen in a case where somebody purchased a used piece of furniture from a more southern area of Texas, and that furniture was infested with drywood termites. As a general rule though, you will not see drywood termites in places where it gets below freezing and where it may snow. Drywood termites need a humid environment all year long to survive. In cold climates, the humidity typically drops below the point where drywood termites can survive. Therefore, I do not think it is necessary for you to treat for drywood termites, and that is probably why they did not treat the entire house with Bora-Care.
In the interest of providing the total truth here, you should know that there is a very small possibility that subterranean termites can get past the Bora-Care treatment, if they were to build a mud tube up the side of the house, where there is no Bora-Care, to an area of the house that was not treated. I must emphasize that this is a very unusual situation. Subterranean termites will almost always attack the first wood they come to, so treating the first three feet from the ground up will almost always get it done. If it were me, and I was the builder, I would have treated all the wood in the house, from the roof down to the basement. That would have costed very little more money and it would have made your house completely termite proof for all species. It would have also made your house carpenter ant proof and carpenter bee proof as well. When we think of wood destroying insects, we generally think about termites, but they are not the only species that will destroy wood. I think it would have cost less than $500 for the builder to do the job right, and you would have been protected against all species of termites and all other would destroying insects as well. Most likely, the contractor was not trying to be cheap, but rather simply didn't know that a total treatment from the roof down was necessary. If you watch most of the RUclips videos that explain how to apply Bora-Care, they will tell you to just treat three feet up from the foundation. Even though RUclips is a great source of information, it is also a great source of misinformation as well. Anyway, if it were me, I would not do any additional treatments at this time, unless you discover some type of an infestation. If you notice any type of activity, such as mud tubes going up the side of the house, holes in the fascia boards, dead carpenter ants near the walls, and so forth, then I would treat for those problems when they happen.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you very much for answering all of my questions.
@@romang6437 You are very welcome. Always my pleasure. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, recently we started seeing termites in our bathtub and shower. We called two companies both could not find any other evidence of termites anywhere else on the property but still have quotes for 2,200$ up to 2,700$ for only 3-5 years of protection. So we went out and bought Taurus and I dug a trench outside along that wall where they seemed to be coming in and poured that product. We also purchased a canned product called thermador which is coming tomorrow we plan to drill holes in the walls and put that foam product in the walls. Do you think these things that we are doing could be enough to solve the issues? Sorry to ask so many questions but also when you sprayed around your house in this video did you use 0.8 fluid oz per 1 gallon of water? Thank you so much. Ty
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. I have learned to never say never in pest control, but I suspect that you may not have termites at all. You see, termites do not typically ever come out in the open, so you should never see them in the bathtub. That may be the reason the pest controllers did not find evidence of termites. If you still have one of these guys, then you can send me a photo of it. Just email it to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please get as close to the specimen as possible, without getting the photo out of focus. I will let you know what you are dealing with. If these are termites, then we can start to figure out what kind they are and then come up with a plan to treat them effectively. So, for now, please stop treating. You didn't do anything that will cause harm, but there is no sense treating the wrong way. Before you can treat effectively, you need to know the target pest. Also, location matters, so please tell me where you live. Some species only live in certain areas of the US and other parts of the world. Where you live will help me narrow down the possibilities.
If you email me, please remind me of the problem and give me your RUclips name, so that I can go back and look at your original comment. I get a lot of email, so it helps if I know who it is emailing me. Probably 50% of my emails are about termites, so it is easy to get folks mixed up because the problems are very similar. I don't think I will forget termites in the bathtub though. I have not heard that one before. So, if you mention that in the email, I will know exactly who you are.
Be well my friend.
What is your opinion on getting attic insulation with pest control solution on it? Is it worth $1600? Or will the boracare treat the same?
In my opining it's a total rip off. Termites do not eat insulation. Termites eat cellulose. Wood contains cellulose, and that's why they eat it. Insulation that is blown in also contains cellulose, but the termites will not eat it because it is treated with a fire retardant. In fact, it will probably repel them. Bora-care is applied directly to the wood, and it penetrates almost all the way through. So, any termites that get into the attic will die when they eat wood that is treated with Bora-care. So, save your money.
I hope that helps. Be well Dayana.
Love you Guy.
Thank you so much. That is so kind of you to say. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Can I use bora care on wood that is stained? I have a unique house that has an exposed attic.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I just saw your question this morning. The answer is no. You can only use Bora-Care on bare wood. I will give you a link to a video on it. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks so much. I really appreciate your videos. I hope you stay well.
Guy, I also have Bifen I/T, so could that be used instead of the Taurus SC for dry wood termites? Thanks! Lynda
The Bifen I/T is pretty much the same thing as the Talstar P. The only difference is that the Talstar P is odorless. They claim that the Bifen I/T is odorless, but it's not. I can certainly smell it and my wife would never let me use it in the house because of the odor. The Bifen I/T is NOT the same as the Taurus SC. The active ingredient is totally different and these products work differently as well. The Taurus SC is more expensive, but you get what you pay for. The Taurus SC will last three months, but the Bifen I/T and the Talstar P will not. I find that the Bifen I/T and the Taurus SC fall a bit short of 90 days. During that time, you are not fully protected. I would use the Taurus SC every 90 days if I could, but it's only labeled for every 180 days. So, you do need to alternate with something. The Bifen I/T is a good choice for that in between treatment, but I would still use the Taurus SC. You may get away with just using the Bifen I/T, but you will definitely regret it if you get drywood termites. So, personally, I would spend the extra money for the better insurance. It's not that much more money.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Be well Lynda.
Once again Guy, you are a wealth of information. To be safe I will be purchasing the Taurus SC. Thanks much!
@@sanlyn23 You are very welcome. Be well Lynda.
Can I use Boracare or do you recommend the two products you reference in your video?
Bora-Care is a wonderful product, but to be effective, it must be applied over bare wood. The problem with drywood termites is that they enter through cracks and crevices around the entire home. It would certainly help to treat all the wood in the attic with Bora-Care, but that will not help you if they enter through cracks and crevices around windows, pipe penetration, and that sort of thing. So, if it were me, I would treat whatever wood I could with Bora-Care, but I would also do a preventive treatment as well, every 60 to 90 days. Always mix the Bora-Care one to one with water. The label will tell you that one to five is okay, but don't do it.
I hope that helps. Be well Carli.
I just sprayed Taurus sc but it rains often here in Florida will the treatment work if it rains right after I treat ?
As a general rule of thumb, you need to allow it to dry at least 2 hours before it rains. It will not wash away after it dries, but it will wash away when it's wet. It's always best to check the forecast prior to application of any pesticides outside. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy,
Its been a while but me keeps watching your videos for my know how and in pronto application, been occupied eradicating drywood or subterranean termite colonies inside the cabinets in my house. I wonder why haven't found the Queen. In one area termites are just like cooked rice, that much they are, I found outdoor in an open wood cabinet, I had to destroy the wood beneath.
Can I use Bifen IT instead of Talstar P, both have the same amount of Bifenthrin ingredient 7.9%
Can I use Fipforce Aqua instead of Taurus SC both have Fipronil ingredient. Thanks very much for your informational videos and support, its more than a help.
I would be more than happy to assist you. First, can you tell me where you live. Location matters. Do you live in Australia? Also, can you tell me why you believe that you have both drywood and subterranean termites. That can certainly happen, and I have seen it before, but it is usually the exception and not the norm. Are you seeing mud tubes and frass? Please describe the problems and what you are seeing. Using Bifen IT instead of Talstar P is fine. I have actually now switched to Bifen XTS. If you email me, I can provide you with a super-fast and easy way to apply it. My email is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I never share that in the comment section. I am not familiar with Fipforce Aqua because it is not readily available in the US. I believe that product is mainly sold in Australia. At least, I have not seen it here. As far as I know, it should work just as well as Taurus SC. Just provide all the details about what is going on and I will do my very best to assist you. Be well my friend.
What’s your take on the termite bait stations for subterranean termites.
I can tell you that there are a number of pest control companies that will try to sell you a Sentricon system. While that is the gold standard for baiting systems, it comes at a fairly steep price. They usually are reasonably priced to install, but keep in mind that you have to pay them a monthly or yearly fee to have them monitor the stations and that fee goes on virtually forever. So, in the long run, it's going to cost you a lot of money utilize this system. It is far more cost effective to simply treat your house with termite granules every year, which only costs about $50. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below for you. Just be sure that you purchase the correct granules. Bayer is making two versions of the granulates now and one of those versions does not work. You need the version that is 700350A and not 700370. The correct version uses imidacloprid as the active ingredient. The wrong version uses beta-cyfluthrin as the active ingredient. A lot of Lowe's and Home Depot stores are no longer selling the correct product, but it can still be obtained from Amazon and I'll place the link below it.
Now, there are baiting systems that you can buy over the counter, but some of them are problematic. You definitely do not want to buy the Spectracide system. That system is loaded with bait and the problem with that is ants like to eat the bait as well as termites. Therefore, you are constantly going to have those little pop-up sticks come up telling you that the bait stations are empty, even though you do not have termites. Then there is the Trelona system, which works pretty well, but you need to remove the top of the monitoring stations every month or so to see if you have termite activity. This system does not have a bait in the monitoring stations and what you do is, if you see activity in the monitoring station, then you switch out the nonpoisonous food source with the actual bait. So, while this system works fairly well, it is also time consuming. Then there are Red Eye monitoring stations. The nice thing about these is that you do not need to remove the top in order to inspect them. There is a clear window on the top of the station, with a little red dot in it. When the dot disappears, then you have termites. This system does not incorporate a bait, but rather a wooden dowel. When the termites eat the dowel, then it drops to the bottom of the station and the red dot disappears. When that happens, you simply shoot in a fipronil foam and that is supposed to kill off the entire colony. With all of these systems, you need to install them at 8-foot intervals around your home, so you need a lot of them. If I were going with a monitoring system, then I would probably select the Red Eye. These are only available from Solutions Pest and Lawn.
Personally, I'm do not use a monitoring system on my home because I found that the termite granules do a wonderful job and there is no need to monitor.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat for subterranean termites with granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k1_1_10&&crid=2USG8KURWPM95&&sprefix=bioadvance
Always do as I say not as I do.
Very true. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy!
This treatment works on mobile homes also? If yes, how can I apply it?
Yes. It works for mobile homes. The treatment method is exactly the same, except, if you have a metal roof, then treat that too. Don't forget to spray the entire skirt. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi guy. I put the BioAdvanced around the house and let the rain the next day soak it into the ground. Was that ok to do that? And thanks for all the great advice.
I guess that depends upon how much rain there was. As long as there was not so much rain that it washed away the granules, then you are good to go. If the ground is sloped away from the house, then a heavy rain can wash away the granules before they melt. If that is the case, then it's best to lightly water them in. If the ground that meets the foundation is fairly level, then the granules will generally stay in place and the rain will do the work for you. If you do not have an active infestation, then I would not be concerned. However, if you do have an active infestation, then you may want to consider reapplying the granules and watering them in. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Not enough to run off so I think I am ok Thanks. Have a great night.
@@ralph601 That's good news. It sounds like you've got it licked. Be well Ralph.
What do you think about boracare to kill existing and stop future damage? I used termidor sc under the porch up against basement wall where termites were believed to be. They claim boracare works for the life of the wood and using on the treating of the studs and floor plates as it is remodeled and spraying attic for possible drywood termites. The house is over 100yrs old.
You are correct. Bora-Care is a permanent solution for all species of wood destroying pests, including drywood termites. I have a video on how to treat drywood termites yourself and I do recommend using Bora-Care in that video. I will place a link below for that video. That being said, you should know that the only sure way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to tent the building and fumigate with a gas. I just finished producing a video that outlines all the available treatment options for drywood termites and I will be posting it to RUclips tomorrow. If you subscribe to my channel and click on the bell, then you will be notified when it posts. This video may be of interest to you because it covers all the possible treatment options, soup to nuts, and how to hire the right pro if you need one. I have not seen another video that covers all of this subject matter. Essentially, this video does all your homework for you regarding available treatment options and the advantages and disadvantages to each and the costs. I think it's a must watch if you have drywood termites.
Also, you should be aware that you must apply Bora-Care correctly for it to work. The label says you can mix it one to five with water, but that is not wise if you have an active termite infestation. You should always mix it one to one. The video below will go over all of that for you.
I hope that helps. Please feel free to ask me all the questions you want. I am always here to help.
How to Treat a Drywood Termite Infestation Yourself video: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions I haven't seen any evidence of dry wood to date but I am treating for future and as a preservative on the old wood. I had a trail of subterranean termites up the wall to the attic. I have treated the ground where they were coming from and created a barrier in between the basement block walls and the wooden structures above. If subterranean termites are already in the attic will they live or die off? I haven't found them yet so I have been treating that area above. I subscribed and will check out your other videos, it's so much cheaper to do yourself and the good advice comes in handy.
@@bcmccoy4127 Okay. Here's the thing about most subterranean termites... They are lazy and will start eating the closest wood available. That means, unless you have a block home with no wood in the walls at all, they are going to start eating as close to the ground as they can. Another way of saying that is, you won't see them in the attic very often. So, when I hear of termites in the attic, that tells me that these are either drywood termites or Formosan termites. Now, Formosan termites are also subterranean, but for some reason, they will find their way into the attic. Therefore, you need to figure out what species you are dealing with. If you are seeing mud tubes going up to the attic, then I would be thinking Formosan termites because drywood termites do not build mud tubes. Now, if you are actually seeing these things, then make sure that they are not carpenter ants. You never get to see termites because they cannot survive exposure to the air. However, carpenter ants do not have this problem and you see them all the time, especially at night. If you are unsure if they are ants or termites, then have a look at my video on Termites vs Carpenter Ants. I will place a link below. Also, have a look at my video on How to Identify Termite Species. I will place a link below for that video as well. There is a map in that video that will show where Formosan termites are a problem.
If the termites are plain vanilla subterranean termites, like Eastern subterranean termites, then the ground treatment will kill all the termites in the building, regardless of where they are. However, Formosan and drywood termites are not that way. You also need to treat the building. It's the same with carpenter ants. You need to treat inside the building to get rid of them. That's why it is important to know exactly what you are dealing with.
I hope that helps.
Termites vs Carpenter Ants video: ruclips.net/video/enJPS-h70Bs/видео.html
How to Identify Termite Species video: ruclips.net/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/видео.html
Hi guy. Ive decided to try and treat the full blown drywood termite infestation of my bedroom. By now my, bed,closet, shelves, and bedside table are all infested, thankfully i dont live in a wooden house or id have to burn it down. I cant get rid of the infested furniture because i dont have the money. My only solution is the diy way but i also have a toddler and i was wondering if there were any natural options to get rid of these pest. Im ready to spray 5gallons of vinegar or lemon or a bucket of salt if these work . But my only option is the diy. I cant call pest control because i dont want to let my mil know that i have termites. I just cant. So please any natural easily available option?
I understand that everyone wants everything natural these days, but the truth is that those methods simply do not work for drywood termites. The only thing that works is a fipronil foam. You just shoot it into the kick out holes that are left in the furniture by the termites. The foam will expand to several times its size and it will get into the galleries in the furniture. Don't worry about harming your child. This product is safe after it dries, and you are not applying it to areas where the child is going to get at it anyway. You are just shooting it into the holes, until it is coming back out at you. Then just wipe off the excess. You can also go over the area where the foam was wiped off with a mild detergent or furniture cleaner if you like. That will remove the excess. Just put the child in another room when you are treating and wear gloves and eye protection. If you are worried about using pesticides, then please watch my video on the subject. It will explain the truth about the real hazards of using pesticides. Most people find it very eye opening. I will give you a link to it. I think you will feel a lot better about using the foam after you watch it. Upholstered furniture is a problem because you cannot get to the wood without removing the fabric and cushioning. To see if you have termites in the upholstered furniture, just move it and turn it over. If you see frass under the furniture, or in any parts on the underside of it, then it is infested. I don't know any way to treat that by yourself. We generally either fumigate it or throw it away. It doesn't sound like either of those options will work for you. If you let it go though, they will not only destroy the furniture, but will also swarm at some point and continue to infest other wood. I wish I had a better solution for upholstered furniture, but I cannot think of one. For the rest of the furniture, the foam will do a wonderful job.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video that explains the truth about how dangerous pesticides are: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Alternative supplier for foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Does Chlorpyrifos work for drywood termites as well?
You should know that Chlorpyrifos has been linked to a number of health problems, including neurodevelopmental problems in children, respiratory problems, and cancer. As a result, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) either has already banned or is trying to ban most residential uses of chlorpyrifos and is currently reviewing its use on food crops. While this material will kill termites, I do not know of an effective way to deliver it to drywood termites. This material is probably best NOT used indoors. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thank you! ❤ 😊 ❤
You are very welcome. I'm sorry that it took me so long to get the drywood videos done. I had a lot on my plate, but it felt good to get these finished because a lot of people were asking about drywood termites. Thank you so much for watching. Be well Stella.
Hey Guy if I Fumigate for drywall termites and live in a mobile home and my neighbors have termites too ,what are the chances I’ll get infested again after I fumigate , the mobile homes are close to each other that’s why I’m worried
The odds are literally 100%. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
The only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. You should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
The pest controllerbcompany
Use different gases for dry wood
Termites which gas is usually the best ? Thank
You
@@ginger111008 Pest control companies almost always use sulfuryl fluoride. The brand names include Vikane, Zythor, Master fume, and ProFume. They are all the same thing. It is also possible that a company could fumigate with other gases such as methyl bromide, ethylene oxide, and carbon dioxide, but these gases are more hazardous and are generally not used. My guess is that the companies are all planning to use sulfuryl fluoride, but the brand name may be different.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy - Can I use Termidor SC instead, or would you recommend these 2 particular pestacide?
Hi Wanning. I emailed you the secret. Let me know if you have any questions. Be well.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you I saw it! I have emailed you back as well!
@@wanningchu3931 Okay. I just wrote back to you.
I have this question too…. Been using this…
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, RUclips did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me.
If you are asking if you can use Termidor SC, then the answer is yes.
Again, so sorry for the delay. Be well my friend.
If I treat the soil around my house, as you show, is this harmful to my dogs?? How soon can I allow them to reenter the backyard?
The pesticide is safe enough for children to play on after it dries. Just keep the dogs in the house while you are applying it. They can come out as soon as it is dry. That depends on how hot it is out, but usually no more than an hour. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I live in Florida . What do you think on demon max ?
Demon Max It's a fine pesticide to use, but personally I do not use it. The reasons for that are basically threefold. The first reason is the cost. It does about the same job as Bifen IT, but it costs almost twice as much to buy and has less residual action. You can reapply the Bifen IT every 60 to 90 days, but they recommend that you reapply the Demon Max every 30 days. So, I can do the same job for a fraction of the price. The second reason is that it has an odor to it. The Bifen IT also has a slight odor, but it dissipates within seconds. Finally, the Demon Max is an oil-based product and has been known to stain some surfaces. Most of the time I do not use pesticides inside the house because I do a really good job treating outside the house and the bugs never get in in the first place. So, this is not an actual reason why I don’t use it, but if I needed to treat inside the house, then the Demon Max can only be used as a crack and crevice spray and not as a surface spray for interior use. The Bifen IT can be applied to interior surfaces.
Now, I'm not saying that you should not use Demon Max. I think it does a great job, but for me, there does not seem to be any advantage to paying a lot more for a product that is not as versatile and needs to be applied three times as often.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Please let me know where I can buy Taurus SC. Thank you.
Sure. You can buy Taurus SC from domyown.com. They will ship most products to CA. I will place a link below. Be well Tuan.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Thank you very much for responding to provide all information I need. I really appreciate your help and kindness.
@@TuanNguyen-nj9uv You are very welcome. I'm glad that I was able to help. Be well Tuan.
I think you’re amazing! just saying!I emailed you today, Rebecca here.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Unfortunately, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks. I have been answering email all day and I still have a lot to go. I don't think I will get to all of them before I leave. So, I may not be able to answer your email until after I get back. Don't worry though. I will answer all your questions and explain everything upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11. If you have drywood termites, then my advice is to do nothing until you hear from me. Drywood termites are very slow eaters, and it can take years for them to do any significant damage. So, you do have the luxury of time. I may be able to save you a lot of money, so please be patient. I wish I didn't need to go, but this was a reasonable request. I will do my very best not to let you down. Just hang in there for two or three weeks and I will be there for you.
Be well Rebecca.
Can I use BifenXTX and spray around windows. Doors and fascia ?
Yes, you can. In fact, it's probably more effective. I have not used it myself, so I cannot say for sure, but I know that it is oil based, so I'm thinking that it will have some odor to it. Also, it is somewhat more expensive than Bifen IT. The biggest differences between the Bifen IT and the Bifen XTX is that the XTX has a higher concentration of the active ingredient and it is oil based. Therefore, it is reasonable to conclude that it will last longer and be somewhat more effective. I would still apply it every three months. If you use it, please get back to me and let me know if it has an objectionable odor or if you find it staining to surfaces in any way. I have not tried it yet because of the price, possible odor, and safety concerns, but the reviews are very good. You definitely want to wear full protective equipment with this product. It contains naphthalene, which is a known carcinogen. With most pesticides, you can get a little on you and not worry about it, but I would be very careful with this one, particularly since you are spraying over your head. You definitely must shower immediately after using it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
It works for roaches ants and earwigs around foundation, I see lots of dead ones. I usually spray between February and June, because I’m Southern California Drywoods Termites swarm from neighbors and nearby trees, so for that reason I drench my windows doors siding and where siding meets roof eeves.
@@joseleon7444 I also recommend that you spray the fascia boards as well. Drywood termites are known to get under the shingles where they meet the drip edge. I know, it sounds hard to believe, but it can happen. Also, catch the entire soffit because there can be openings where the soffits meet the fascia boards. The other thing you should be aware of is that there are actually two species of drywood termites where you are and they swarm at different times of the year. The western drywood termite swarms between September and November. The desert drywood termite swarms from June to September. So, you are doing a preventive treatment for desert drywood termites, but not western drywood termites. I always tell people that you should treat all year long because the termites do not always get the memo about when they are supposed to swarm. The treatment is quick and easy to do, so why not just do it every three months and make sure you have it covered? That's what I do.
Are you getting much odor from the Bifen XTX? Also, would you mind sharing where you get it from? Pesticides are hard to find in California because of the laws. I would like to share the supplier with others from your state. Thanks.
Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions solution pest and lawn. Every day after work I go home open garage. Grab my caulk gun and look for any cracks or holes to calK. I do this every day, I house is lotttlery full of caulk, every where I am paranoid?
@@GuysPestSolutions I order my stuff from Solutions pest and lawns, and Xtx kind of smells like “chemical” outside then it diss epates into the air. I will spray Bifentrin first 3 months then I will spray with Dipronil the following 3 months. I also foamed inside my wall voids with Boracare care and Profoam. 5:1 ratio , every 18 inches of studs. I’m doing what I can to prevent dry woods and eastern subs.
What happen if apply Taurus SC every three months?
You violate the law and risk the pesticide police getting a no-knock warrant, kicking in your door, and hauling you away to serve a life sentence of hard labor in bug jail. Othe than that, nothing. Of course, I'm kidding, but you will be violating the law and spending a lot more money than is necessary. After the initial treatment with the Taurus SC, it is perfectly legal to apply Bifen IT every two months and that will give you wonderful protection, for a lot less money. You can apply the Bifen every three months and that is good if you have not had an infestation before, but if you have one, then your neighbors do as well, and a two-month treatment is probably a good idea. The Bifen will last three months, but that third month may leave it somewhat less effective.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions I appreciate your reply in very detail information. Thank you! I got another question on Bifen. I checked found the active ingredient is bifenthrin and has different brand and type like Talster P or Bifen in concentrated solution also has granules type like Talstar PL Granules. Question is any different use the liquid based(diluted and spray) or granules based? If the result or impact wise is similar then which one is more inexpensive way? Since homeowners do it ourselves cares nothing much than cost. Thank you in advance for your professional feedback!
@@arthur113113 The Bifen IT and the Talstar P are the exact same product. The only difference is that the Bifen IT it's a little less expensive and it has a slight odor to it, while the Talstar P it's totally odorless. The granules are for lawn applications only, but the liquid version can be used on lawns and structures. The granules are fine to use on your lawn, but it costs more and takes a lot more time and work, than simply spraying your lawn with the liquid. Personally, I treat my lawn every two months with Bifen IT. I will give you the procedure for it. If you are going to treat the house, you are supposed to use a tank sprayer, but I do know some people but do it with I garden hose sprayer. You're not really supposed to do that, but it is very fast. Anyway, if you are treating your house, then you want a treat around all windows and doors, up the side of the house from the ground about two feet, all cracks and crevices, soffits, and fascia boards. Be sure to soak the area really well where the house meets the soil, and you always want a treat two feet out from the wall on the ground. Not only will this take care of drywood termites, but just about every other kind of pest imaginable.
I recommend using a specific garden hose sprayer that I know works, but you can use any brand that you wish. I will place a link below for both the sprayer and Bifen IT. I have found that these sprayers do not last beyond a few uses because they seem to clog up quite easily, even if you clean them really well. So, what happens is you end up just spraying water instead of pesticide. That is why it is a good idea to put a dye in with the pesticide, so that you know it is working. I will provide you with links to all the products. When the sprayer stops working, just buy a new one. They are not very expensive. Do not spray your house or concrete with a dye.
This application method does not require a lot of protective equipment. I recommend wearing goggles, rubber gloves, long pants, a respirator, and long sleeve shirt (If it's not too hot out).
The Bifen IT is too thick to be picked up by the siphon tube in the sprayer and therefore, it needs to be diluted. To do this, pour 4 ounces of the Bifen IT into the sprayer and then add enough water to fill it to the 32-ounce mark. So, that would be 4 ounces of product and an additional 28 ounces of water. As you are adding the water, swirl it around a bit in the container, so that it mixes as you are adding the water. Before screwing the sprayer onto the holding cup, make sure that the siphon tube is securely into the sprayer head. If the siphon tube falls out, then you will be spraying with plain water. Set the sprayer at 8 ounces per gallon. The labeled dilution rate for the Bifen IT is 1 ounce per gallon of water, but you diluted it 1 ounce of product to 7 ounces of water, so that means you need to apply it at a rate of 8 ounces per gallon. At this application rate, you will see the holding cup drain down fairly quickly, so you will know that it's working. If the product does not seem to be emptying out of the holding cup fairly quickly, then something is wrong, and you need to stop and figure it out. If the siphon tube is solidly in place, then it could be that the screen on the end of the tube is clogged. If that is clear, then put your finger over the bottom of the tube and turn on the water. If you do not feel the suction, then it's not working, and the sprayer is malfunctioning. You always want to clean the spryer really well after each use to avoid clogs. It's always a good idea to put a dye in the cup with the pesticide and that will show if the product is being dispensed. Just avoid spraying anything that you don't want colored, like concrete or the house. The color will wash off the lawn and plants when it rains. You really don't need to use so much dye that you actually color the grass. You just want enough color so that you can tell that the pesticide is being picked up by the siphon tube.
Attach the sprayer to a garden hose and you are all set. Set the sprayer for a downward fan spray and spray your entire lawn, ornamental plants, and garden. Again, if you use the dye, then do not spray concrete. Otherwise, I would spray the entire property from the house out to the property line.
Pro tips: To make this application quicker and easier, I recommend that you buy 100 feet of one of those super hoses that you see advertised on TV all the time. They are lightweight and make the job go a lot quicker and easier. Also, if you attach a quick disconnect to both the sprayer and the garden hose, it makes refilling the sprayer a lot easier and quicker. These hoses require that you have a shutoff valve at the end of the hose where the sprayer is located, so that you can shut the water off prior to removing the sprayer. Most of the hoses have a shutoff valve built in, but not all of them do. If you buy one that does not have a shut off valve, then you need to add your own. I will place links below for all these items. Please note that these hoses should be stored inside because they deteriorate fairly quickly when left in the sunlight.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide
If you cannot get the Bifen IT from Solutions Pest and Lawn, then try domyown.com: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=11662
Sprayer dye for lawn: www.solutionsstores.com/turf-mark
Garden hose sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B00UER1S64?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Garden hose: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SYT173G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Quick connect fittings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QG6F3Z3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shutoff valve: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZYGVFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@GuysPestSolutions greatly appreciate your feedback! Wish you well!
@@arthur113113 It is always my pleasure to help. Be well my friend.
Thank you
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Can i spray my whole attic with taurus
Not a good idea to use Taurus SC in the attic. I recommend treating all the wood in the attic with Bora-Care. I talk about that in my video on how to treat drywood termites yourself, and I show you how to use it. I have a link to it in the description of that video to the product. Make sure that you mix it one to one with water. The best part is that it lasts forever. Be well my friend.
ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
I have no termites in my home.. yet... and by guy i never will!
I love that. Be well my friend.
Will primathin kill termites?
Yes. This is a fipronil product and it will work well for termites. However, you need to use it correctly for the species you are trying to treat. Most people fail because they use the product incorrectly for the target species. If you have drywood termites, the only way to treat them is to fumigate. Pesticides will not work. You will kill some of them, but many will go on eating your home. Please let me know if you have drywood termites and I will give you additional information. If you are unsure of the species, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. It's not as hard as you may think. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
I wish you could come to my apartment!!!
I am so sorry that you're having this problem and that you have MS. I'm sure you are a very wonderful person and you certainly do not deserve this kind of treatment. Not only is your landlord an idiot for treating you that way, but it also doesn’t make sense. If there are drywood termites in your apartment, then they are busy eating away at the walls and maybe even the floors and roof structure of the building. This will end up causing the landlord thousands of dollars in repairs if they don't get rid of the termites. If your landlord does not believe the problem exists, then perhaps you should call a pest control company and get a free inspection. If the pest control company confirms the existence of drywood termites, then you can simply give the estimate to the landlord as proof that the problem exists. This may inspire them to get their own inspection done.
If your furniture is infested with drywood termites, then a lot of it can be treated with a can of fipronil foam. All you do is shoot the foam into all the kick out holes for a couple of seconds, or until the foam is coming back out at you. This is pretty easy to do for most furniture, but it can be a little challenging for upholstered furniture because the wood is often concealed by the fabric. The problem is though that the termites are going to continue to attack your furniture because they are living in the woodwork and maybe even the drywall around the apartment. Therefore, about all you can do is just treat the furniture when you notice the kick out holes or frass.
I am so sorry that I do not have a better solution for you. There is only so much tenant can do in this type of a situation. Please do take care of yourself as best you can.
Be well Robin.
Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Guy, Some of my neighbors claim a certain local Pest Control company will do a ONE TIME only treatment inside for dry wood termites (not the subterranean type which this company treats with Sentricon.) They charge a lot of money for this ONE TIME treatment. My question is have you ever heard of such a claim?
Yes. There are a number of ways to do a one-time treatment and I am planning to have a video out on all the available treatment options for drywood termites sometime in early March. The truth is though that the only way to guarantee total elimination of a drywood termite infestation is to tent and fumigate. All the other methods, including the way I show you how to do it, are not a sure thing. Still, there are microwave treatments, total Bora-Care treatments, fumigation, and spot treating. They are all one-time treatments. The only one that claims to be a permanent solution though is the total Bora-Care treatment where they literally cover all the wood in the home with Bora-Care. Since all the wood is treated with Bora-Care and since this is a permanent product that never loses its effectiveness, in theory, you should never get any kind of termites ever again, including drywood and subterranean. It sounds good, but I cannot vouch for its effectiveness. I think it could work very well, if it is done correctly, but I'm not sure that all companies that offer this treatment will do a perfect job. You cannot leave any wood untreated and all homes have some areas that are hard to access. Nevertheless, this could be a very good option. I will place a link below, so that you can see how they do it. I hope that helps.
ruclips.net/video/kXQTc9wwCfQ/видео.html
Help I’m a tenant with a termite infestation and my landlords refuse to believe it and refuse to exterminate! All of my furniture is totally ruined! I have multiple sclerosis and I’m very sick. I’m faced with losing everything I have and basically being homeless. I worked my entire life up until the point that I become too sick. I’m not a lasy person I’m sick. I just learned that I have mold as well. I can’t have my apartment exterminated without my landlords approval. They refuse to do anything. Renters need more rights! Please help
I am so sorry that you're having this problem and that you have MS. I'm sure you are a very wonderful person and you certainly do not deserve this kind of treatment. Not only is your landlord an idiot for treating you that way, but it also doesn’t make sense. If there are drywood termites in your apartment, then they are busy eating away at the walls and maybe even the floors and roof structure of the building. This will end up causing the landlord thousands of dollars in repairs if they don't get rid of the termites. If your landlord does not believe the problem exists, then perhaps you should call a pest control company and get a free inspection. If the pest control company confirms the existence of drywood termites, then you can simply give the estimate to the landlord as proof that the problem exists. This may inspire them to get their own inspection done.
If your furniture is infested with drywood termites, then a lot of it can be treated with a can of fipronil foam. All you do is shoot the foam into all the kick out holes for a couple of seconds, or until the foam is coming back out at you. This is pretty easy to do for most furniture, but it can be a little challenging for upholstered furniture because the wood is often concealed by the fabric. The problem is though that the termites are going to continue to attack your furniture because they are living in the woodwork and maybe even the drywall around the apartment. Therefore, about all you can do is just treat the furniture when you notice the kick out holes or frass.
I am so sorry that I do not have a better solution for you. There is only so much tenant can do in this type of a situation. Please do take care of yourself as best you can.
Be well Robin.
Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
You said "any question for any pest".
Can you help me get rid of my ex?
Wow! You have my sense of humor. I love that. Well done. Thanks.
@GuysPestSolutions lol.
We thank you for wealth of knowledge.
@@yeeebayeeba4268 You are very welcome. Please do not hesitate to ask questions. I am always here to help. Be well my friend.
Thank you for this! What do you think about Spectracide Terminate Termite Killing Foam? The Ingredients are very different from FiPro so I wonder if it'll work.
Spectracide Terminate Termite Killing Foam will not work because it kills too quickly. You don't want to kill the termites right away. You need to give them time to spread the pesticide around the gallery to the other termites and the queen. Fipronil works best for this, which is why virtually all the professionals use it. If you cannot get FiPro, you can also use Termidor Foam. Same thing, but I like the applicator tip better on FiPro. You can only get FiPro from Solutions Pest and Lawn because they make it, but you can get Termidor Foam from domyown.com. Solutions P&L does not ship to a lot of places that domyown.com will ship to, like California.
By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11.
I hope that helps. Be well Flavia.
@@GuysPestSolutions You are an angel! Please enjoy that vacation!
@@GuysPestSolutions One more thing! How about Fuse Foam
www.solutionsstores.com/fuse-foam?sku=CSI200&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwgdayBhBQEiwAXhMxtl0Mnvjsxxypxv1bbQpUd6mJSOHY9A-hXCQ-RNYfoinTKV8SKvrBdxoCB_wQAvD_BwE#156=2982
Thanks. Should be fun. The Fuse Foam works okay, but I like pure fipronil better. Fuse is a combination of fipronil and imidacloprid. I think it's okay to use though. Still a slow kill and non-repellent. Fuse is usually a bit less expensive as well. I don't use it myself, but I think it will work just fine. Be well Flavia.
@@GuysPestSolutions You as well! Thank you so much.
I have a dead mango tree in front of my yard, which is termite infested. Earlier I ignored the termites as I was unaware of the damage they can do till they found a way inside my home and started to come out of the RCC walls and cemented floor.
Now I have Bayer Premise. Can you please guide me on how to wipe out the termite colonies. I have already dug a trench around the tree and poured about a 10 gallons of water mixed with Premise in the ratio of 2.1ml/litre. I have also injected the tree holes with the same solution.
I don't have any wooden furniture inside the house, it's just the dead tree and probably the dead roots that run under the foundation of my home. Thanks in advance.
Please tell me where you live. When it comes to termites, location matters. Keep in mind that when you trench, you need to also treat the backfill dirt. Are the walls just concrete or are they covered with drywall? It is very unusual for termites to come out of a wall, unless they are building a carton. So, we need to identify the species. If you see any more of them, try to obtain one with a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. At that point, we can figure out what it is. If you cannot find one with a red head, then please find any specimen you can. You can email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and send the photos there. When you write, be sure to explain again what is going on. I get a lot of email. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.