ULTIMATE DIY Termite Inspection Guide - AMAZING - Find Termites Yourself Every Time
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- Опубликовано: 13 апр 2024
- It's hard to believe, but even the best pest controllers can miss termites when they do an inspection. It is always a good idea to do a proper termite inspection on your home every year and if you are buying a house. If you are buying a home, it can cost you thousands in repair costs if an inspector misses termites. This video will show you how to find termites yourself every time.
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/ @guyspestsolutions
Please note, sometimes I do not always receive posted questions from viewers, or I do receive them, but RUclips does not allow me to respond to them. Sometimes I do not receive a question until six months after it was posted. These glitches do not happen often, but they do happen. It is my policy to respond to all questions, so if you do not hear from me in a few of days, then please email your question to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please do try to post questions in the comment section first and only use the email address if you don't hear from me. The reason for this is that other folks may have the same question, so it would be nice for them to learn as well. Also, I always answer comments first, so it will be faster for you. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation. Remember... I will always get back to you.
Hi Guy! Thank you for your invaluable advice. I bought a house 2 years ago AND had a "pro" termite inspection done. I was advised of (Minor) signs of prior activity, but none current. Well...... guess what I found after moving in? Subterranean Termites after a swarm in my bathroom. Long story short, I followed your advice to the letter and got rid of them. Also, the previous owner stored fire wood right against that outside wall.... real genius!!! Even I knew better than THAT!
I now check and treat the house using the granules every year. I have NO signs of termites. And I LOOK!!! I also keep the foundation clear of dirt and check for mud tubes, etc. SO far so good. Not one single swarmer this spring!
Thank you so much for sharing your great experience.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Dang, almost 68k subscribers! You’ve grown a good amount since you helped me close to two years ago. Congratulations. You deserve it.
Thank you so much for those kind words. My channel really took off last year. I suspect it's because I am the only one who will answer all questions in full detail. I don't care how long it takes. I will answer every question and I will work with everyone until their problem is solved. It is interesting that about 40% of my viewers are from about 50 countries other than the US. I get questions from people all around the world. I must admit. I did not see that coming. It's fun though and I really enjoy doing it. Thank you so much for watching. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Another useful and helpful video by Guy!!! The truth, as he says, is that many termite inspectors do their job halfway done. Nobody will do it better than yourself!!! You just gotta listen to Guy and follow his advice...
You are so kind to say that. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks as always Guy, you are a wealth of knowledge
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks for another great video!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you guy!!! 👍🏼
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.
Guy, Thank you for the video. 🙏
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for the tip. Very much appreciated.
Another great, very informative video!
Thank you so much for watching and for those kind words. I look forward to reading your email. I am currently answering a lot of questions. I guess I am starting to get into my busy season. Last year it started on May 1, but it looks like it's coming early this year. I have been answering questions all day. I will do my best to get to the email today, but it may be in the morning. I was only getting about 5 to 10 questions a day before I released this video and today I had about 40 questions. Last May I started getting up to 100 questions a day. I'm not complaining because I love helping people, but I can be difficult sometimes to keep up. I know you understand. Be well mate.
No problem mate.
You and I, are in the minority I think, that actually takes the time to reply to our audiences. 👍
@@SteveMack I know you understand. I will try to answer your email today, but I will be gone for the next three days. My brother is coming into town today and I will be taking him and his grandson to the theme parks. I am really going to get behind on answering questions, so please don't worry about me. I will get through it just as soon as I can. Be well mate.
NO problem AT ALL mate! Just now read your email. Take care with that back!!
@@SteveMack I'm back, but I have about 300 questions to answer. Hopefully, I can catch up by mid week. Be well mate.
Hello Guy! I have recently discovered subterranean termites in my home due to a swarm. I found your channel, subscribed, and have watched many of your videos. I am grateful that you have taken the time to share your knowledge, and can appreciate the work that goes into producing your videos. Your clear, concise, and in depth explanations are excellent. Oh, and may I also add, humorous. Thank you! Even though I have some experience with subterranean termites from years of work in property maintenance and management, and I inspect my house for termites twice a year, the path the termites decided to take seemed as if they were aware as to how difficult it would be to detect. I am going to apply a termiticide along the expansion joint space inside my garage that is adjacent to a block interior foundation wall. I have removed the old joint material and used a 3/8" x 12" drill bit to loosen the soil below. I can see that there are termites in the area with a borescope. I have read that a dedicated sprayer tank should be used when applying a non-repellent termiticide. I already have several sprayers that I always keep clean. What are your feelings about using a dedicated sprayer for this purpose? All the best!
If you are certain that these are subterranean termites, then you need to be sure that you are treating them with either fipronil or imidacloprid. I do not recommend treating them with any other type of pesticide, even if it's non-repellent. The reason for that is most pesticides kill the termites too fast and does not allow them time to bring the pesticide back to the colony. You may see a lot of dead termites really fast, but that is not going to take out the infestation. My go-to product for this is Taurus SC. You do not need a dedicated sprayer for this. You just need to rinse it out after you're finished. Applying Taurus SC the way you describe will probably help the situation, but it is unlikely to take out the entire colony. Therefore I recommend that you either use termite granules or trenching around the house. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Hello Guy, please due a video on silverfish.
Thank you
You are correct. I do need to do a video on silverfish. I have it on my list of videos that I need to do. For now though, let me explain how to take care of the problem.
The first thing you need to know about silverfish is that they get into your house from the outside. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is to treat the outside of your home. I'll give you a link to my video on how to do that.
The next thing you need to do is treat the inside of your home. Purchase Niban FG Fine Granular Bait. I will give you a link for the product. You can apply this product in cracks and crevices in areas that are not accessible by people or pets, where you are seeing the silverfish activity. One of the nice features about this product is that it comes with an applicator tip, so that you could apply it without using a duster. Treat under baseboards, appliances, and where plumbing penetrates the wall, like under the sinks, and where the toilet supply pipe goes into the wall. You can also apply the product in basements, attics, and crawl spaces. In more open areas, you can use Dekko Silverfish Packs. You can place these on kitchen shelves, under sinks, inside drawers, on bookshelves, in pantries, in attics, or any other place you are seeing activity that is out of reach of children and pets. You want to place these about every 12 inches apart on shelves, and place about three or four of them under sinks and under appliances.
Finally, it's a good idea to seal up any cracks and crevices on the outside and the inside of the building. Not only will this help to stop silverfish, but other invading pests as well.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat the outside of your home: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Niban FG Fine Granular Bait: www.domyown.com/niban-fine-granular-bait-lb-p-49.html?pdpv=2
Dekko silverfish packs: www.domyown.com/dekko-silverfish-packs-p-204.html?pdpv=2
I saw the flying ones in my house one day in Indianapolis. I started looking around and noticed a spot on my garage/ house door frame that looked odd. I pressed on it and the paint caved in to open up a spot the definitely looked like tunnels. I was in my 20s, but I knew I had a problem
Great story. Thanks for sharing. I did an inspection one time where someone leaned on their wall and they went right through it. That's why folks would be wise to inspect their homes for termites every year. It's not that hard to do and it can save you thousands in repairs. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy. Thanks for your excellent videos. I'm going to do the Bayer pellet treatment today around the perimeter. I have a dirt crawl space in my basement. The entry to that crawl space is where I see many dead termites. Should I do the dirt inside that crawlspace, too? How long can I expect the treatment to last?
Thanks again! You are awesome. It's really great that u are taking time out of ur retirement to help others. It's much appreciated.
Look under the crawl space and see if there are any mud tubes in contact with the ground. If not, then you do not need to treat under there. If there are mud tubes in contact with the ground, then let me know. Also, if there are no mud tubes in contact with the ground, then you should cover the ground under there with polyethene plastic. This will prevent termites from establishing a colony under the house.
Keep in mind that for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
Hi Guy, thank you for your videos! It is great to see your video gets more interesting with more editing techniques. They are just fun to watch! I have a questions about fire ants. I am trying to do broadcasting for fire ant control, and noticed top choice is not available for people without licenses. I notice fipronil is the ingredient, and Taurus SC happens to have that. However, it is not labeled for fire ant control, and nobody explained why. Assuming in a imaginary world without legal issues, would TSC be successful at controlling fire ants? I can also Private message you if this is a more sensitive question. Thanks! Always good to see new videos from you!
Fire ants are actually really easy and you can take them out overnight. Please watch my video on how to treat fire ants. This will kill all the mounds for under $10 for your entire yard in most cases. However, they are probably in the neighbor's yard as well, so to stop them from returning you need to treat the entire yard with Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do that as well. So, treat the fire ants first, then the next day after they are all dead, follow up with the yard treatment. You need to do the yard treatment about every 60 days to keep them from visiting again. Now, they don't always come back, so you may want to just try the fire ant treatment first and see how that works out. If they come back, then treat them again and start doing the yard treatment.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat fire ants: ruclips.net/video/VReLWuT-jcQ/видео.html
Video on how to treat your yard: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
I just found a mud tube in my unfinished bathroom in the basement coming from the unplumbed toilet on the floor to the ceiling joists and then it disappears into the wall where I cannot see it I punctured a hole in the mud tube and found termites how should I proceed to treat the inside of my home now that I've confirmed I have subterranean termites I believe I should do a trench treatment around the house now I've been watching your videos and they have been very helpful and full of information thank you again
It sounds like you do have subterranean termites, but you should check the species. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video. If you are in the orange or red areas, then you must identify the species exactly. The video will show you how to do that. If you do not live in the red or orange areas, then you may be able to get away with using termite granules. Please check the species and get back to me. Armed with that information I can assist you better. There could be an easy fix for you. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Hi Guy, Great explanation. So, if I do have an active infestation, should I skip granules (imidacloprid) and go for Taurus SC? Am I late for granules?
I didn't see any mud trails coming from the ground around the house. I have brick veneer. A few days ago after a heavy rain, black color insects (about 10-15) came down through the attic. I saw a couple of them in the bathtub and sink but I no longer see them. From your previous video, I assume they are dry wood termites.
This may or may not be termites. The next time you see one, catch it and and put it in a jar. Then let it die a natural death. Then you can properly identify it. If it's black, then it could be a subterranean termite or it could be a carpenter ant. If you can catch one, we can figure out what it is. If it is termites, you may be able to use the granules, depending on the species and ground conditions. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
If you do not have an active infestation of subterranean termites already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25.
You may also want to watch my videos on how to identify termites species and the video on how to tell the difference between carpenter ants and termites.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
Video on how to identify termites species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to tell the difference between carpenter ants and termites: ruclips.net/video/enJPS-h70Bs/видео.html
Hi Guy, I want to thank you for your information. This very helpful in understanding the problem better. I do have a question. I live in an apartment and I see mud tubes coming out with a pile of frass on the floor from the electric socket. On top of that I am and seeing and kick out holes in the gipsum board. I suspect there might be more as a neighbour had a lot termites in his door frame. After they removed the door frame I suspect the termites moved to my apartment.
Luckily the building is make with concrete and bricks. I have watched many of your video where creating trench to treat the termites is the solution. In my case the building is surrounded with concrete and cemented roads an pavements. There is no soil or garden here. How would I solve my issue to protect the apartment unit I live in? Secondly, how could I solve the termites in the electrical socket?
Do you suppose you could send me some photos of all of this? I would like to have a look at the mud tubes and the frass. When taking the photos, take one photo as close as you can, and one photo from a bit of a distance. Make sure that the photos are well focused. You can email them too guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. When you send the email, please remind me of the problem. Also, please tell me where you live. When it comes to termites, location matters. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I just found 2 Formosan swarmers with no wings in my bathroom. According to your video, subterranean termites can only colonize via the ground. Does this mean they won’t colonize inside the house? I’m in houston Texas and I think they’re swarming now. Thanks for your videos.
You got that correctly. Formosan termites will not start a colony in your home. However, Formosan swarmers look a lot like drywood swarmers. Make sure that you identified the species correctly. Drywood swarmers do start new galleries in your home. They are very common in Houston. Also, regardless of the species, these guys came from somewhere. When you find swarmers in the house, that usually means that you have an existing infestation. I recommend that you do a thorough inspection of your home.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thank you so much for your great advice, I have one of these rotten trees in my backyard, and it's already full with termites, any advice will be appreciated to deal with this issue.
Drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the tree that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the tree. You want to use a drill bit that is at least 12 inches long and at least 1/2 inch wide. The longer the better. Also drill holes right into the tree, a couple of inches above the dirt. You want them about 6 inches apart around the entire tree. Drill these holes in a downward angle toward the center of the tree. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. You can also drill some holes down into the ground at a 90 degree angle, that are about 6 inches apart, and fill them up with the Taurus SC as well. There is a good chance that the termites will contact the Taurus SC and bring it back to the colony and share it with the other termites. This will kill the entire colony. If the colony is dead, then the termites will not be alive to attack you house. After the colony is dead, then remove the tree. If the tree is alive, it probably will not survive this treatment.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Thank you so much. You are the best. I have watched all your videos, and I've learned a lot.
Can you tell me what type of termites I have? I live in Seattle, WA
ruclips.net/user/shortsaYV6t38KNjc?si=t695b_Wqz8v8PiV2
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated.
I'm sorry. The link you gave me did not work. In Seattle WA, the most common species are Western subterranean termites. They can be somewhat difficult to detect, and they can be fairly destructive. They can often attack without mud tubes showing. This can make them hard to spot. They also have the ability to colonize in your home.
I hope that helps. Please note that I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, and I may not be able to answer questions until I return. I will get back to you when I get home if you have any more questions. Sorry about that. I have not taken my wife on a vacation for 13 years and she explained to me that it's time. I got the message. Lol.
Hi guy, i want to thank you for all that super valuable information. Please keep it up and keep spreading that knowledge and experience. I live in Houston TX and i seen window sill trim and floor trim start apearing some holes in it. Called my pest control which i never used. My house was built in 2011 and spose to have termite barriers installed and trated for termites. I have concrete slab foundation. So inspector found one mud tube on outside wall right under that window which had those holes appeared. So inspector removed that mud tube and gave me about quote of about 3k to treat. I started watching all around my parameter for mud tubes and destroy it one more time, keep spraying with regular home depot pest sprey. Did not see more damage or tubes for almost a year but now i want to do it my self with taurus sc. Do you think that i should remove sheet rock and check for damage behind the sheet rock or just do the treatment?. I can email you pictures of those holes in windows sill trim
You are very welcome. I am a little concerned because you live in Houston and the holes are in the window sill trim. This could be drywood termites if you are not seeing any more mud tubes. I would remove that window sill trim and see if you can obtain a specimen with a red head. Those are the soldiers and the easiest to identify. If you can get one, then put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. Then we can figure out what species you are dealing with. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard to do. After I know the species I can tell you exactly how to treat it. In the meantime, please stop using the Home Depot stuff. It can actually make the problem worse. I would not remove the drywall just yet. I would only do that if these turn out to be Formosan termites. For now, let's just see what is under that trim.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/FN7JyBNSooY/видео.html
Thank you so much for quick response, I will remove that trim and see if I can find live specimens which I highly doubted. Since those holes are at least 2 to 3 years old and did not increase in size. I will update tomorrow after removing that trim. Already emailed you picture with subject Houston home termite
@@zeeshansaeed1369 Okay. Thanks. I looked at the photos. While there is no activity in those holes, that may only be because termites cannot be exposed to the air or they die. They may have moved to a safer part of the wood. If they are nowhere to be found after removing the baseboard, then the colony may be dead. If you do find active termites, then you want a specimen with a red head. Sometimes it is just old damage and the colony has already been treated. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Yes I removed floor trim and window sill trim and couldn't find live termite. Will send you pictures of removed pannel and found no damage to sheet rock. With floor trim removed when I tap on wall joints with rubber hammer did not see any dust falling or hear anything. Those holes are at least 3 years old. So please let me know what you recommend?.should I still dig around my parameter and use Taurus sc and fill fuse foam (termiticide) before I put new base boards?
@@zeeshansaeed1369 If you are not seeing any activity, then the colony is probably dead. I would treat all new wood with Bora-Care before installing it. I will give you a link to the product and a link to a video on how to use it. Mix it one to one with water and not one to five. You can mix small amounts of it. For the outside, I would do a preventive treatment. You may be able to do that with granules. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider monitoring stations.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
Since you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Video on how to use Bora-Care: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4d/видео.html
Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
Hi Guy! I coukd teally use your advice. I have termites and have treated them 3 times by 2 different pest conyrol companies. Problem is they are still here. I got swarming last season and i am seeing tubes come from the ceiling in a spot that has been repaired. Im not sure how to treat this. Ive opened the ceiling (a quarter of it) where the tubes were and the damage is insane. My idea is to spray the damaged wood with Bora Care like i did in my basement. This ceiling is plaster. Not sure if i should tear all the plaster and iron wire to see if the rest of the wood is damaged as well. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
Please tell me where you live. This sounds a lot like Formosan termites. If they are, then this is a serious problem that many pest controllers get wrong. This species is very destructive and can destroy a house within a few months. I'm not saying that is what you have, but it sounds a lot like them. They only exist in certain areas of the US and some other countries. So, if you live in a southern coastal state, California, or Hawaii, then this could be your problem. Some companies try to treat Formosan termites with a baiting system like Sentricon, but that often is not going to end well. Other companies understand that you must trench for these guys, but they don't realize that you also need to treat the inside of the home as well. For more information on Formosan termites and how to tell if you have them, please watch my video on how to identify termite species and my video on how to treat Formosan termites. After watching these videos, please get back to me and let me know if you think I may be correct. If I am, we can explore your options. If I am not correct, then we can try and figure out the species and the best way to approach the problem.
I hope that helps. Be well Kelita.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Hello Guy, i have a question about termites in my house. It's in an interior wall of my home, my home has a peer & beam foundation(not a concrete foundation).
On your video that i had viewed, you showed how to use the termite killing granules that you sprinkle around your foundation & in flower beds, will this method work in my case?
My worry is...that if the termites are getting the soil & moisture from under my home will they still get to the termites treatment that is sprinkled outside my home.
The first thing you need to do is figure out the species. A lot of this depends upon where you live. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There's a map in that video that will show you where Formosan and drywood termites are a problem. If you live in the red or orange areas on the map, then please let me know. Otherwise, you live in an area with the granules should work just fine. With a pier home, you basically have multiple foundations. That is to say, each pier is its own foundation. So, if you treat around each pier, then even if the termites have a colony directly under the house, they still cannot build a mud tube up one of those piers. Of course, one of the problems we often run into with pier homes is that some of the house is so low to the ground that you cannot access the piers. Please let me know if that is the case, and I will offer you some possible solutions. Also, please get back to me if you live in the red or orange areas on the map.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to one of the piers that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Hi Guy! QUESTION PLEASE. Thanks for all vids and work you do! I have a quick question.. Im in Florida and have found termites in my raised garden beds. Is there a safe way to destroy them so the chemicals dont hurt my soil or plants? Would borax be acceptable treatment. Ive read all kinds of things and just not sure how to get rid of them out of my raised garden beds. Thanks!
I can assist you with that. Please tell me how close the garden beds are to the house. This is very important because of where you live.
To treat the garden bed, I recommend using a bait. If you can find active termites, then install a bait station directly in the ground where you are seeing the termites. It is a good idea to "seed" the station with a few live termites. Just put a few of them in the station after you bury it. You can make a bait station yourself that will kill off the colony in about 12 weeks or you can buy a commercial one that may take up to 2 years. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them and a link to the commercial stations. This treatment will not harm the plants or get into any food that is being grown. With the commercial stations the bait is sold separately.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to make termite bait stations: ruclips.net/video/r05Z-aUJehw/видео.html
Commercial bait stations: www.domyown.com/advance-termite-bait-station-p-148.html
Commercial bait: www.domyown.com/trelona-compressed-termite-bait-box-cartridges-p-17220.html
@@GuysPestSolutions They are about 25 feet away.. Last year I did find some termites inside of MY HOUSE which I eradicated quickly using a pest control company but now I am a little nervous there may some more in the house... it's kind of like snakes you NEVER see just one..i had the perimeter treated w the drill and inject method, but they coukdnt get the south side of house facing the beds bc of a deck aginst the house..
@@GuysPestSolutions i watched the bait station vid. Im curious now bc the termites we found in house were under a tub on 2nd floor, had a hidden leaky faucet the hd attached mud tubes to..heres whats interesting..they had a case i think he called it..looked like a cardboard box where queen was..we eliminated that. He said not to worry about few that got way, they wouldnt survive without water..we capped off leak so its dry..what kind did i have since they had a nest by the leak? Thx again
@@aaronmalone4540 Please tell me where you live. These guys sound a lot like Formosan termites. If that is the case, then you could have a big problem. Try go obtain a specimen from the garden that has a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. Then watch my video on how to identify termite species. You will very quickly find out if this is a Formosan termite. You cannot mistake the head. If these are Formosan termites, then we have a lot to discuss and you need to take action quickly. Please get back to me with that information. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Hello Guy. I do have wood around my home infected by termites and old tree stumps. What should I do. I do not have mud trails along any of the foundation so I think subterranean are not issues. However there is a dying tree that appears to have been infected with dry wood. Last swarming season I poured a soapy citrus oil solution in part of tree to kill the swarm. Let me know what I should do
Please tell me where you live. Location matters. If these are drywood termites, then your house is probably infested already. Drywood termites do not create mud tubes. I suggest that you inspect your home for drywood termites. This video will show you how to do that. If you have drywood termites, I will explain everything you need to know about them.
Treating a tree for subterranean termites can be done, but it's not a sure thing. You cannot effectively treat a tree for drywood termites. It is best to remove the tree.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Guy, first I just would like to say thank you for the awesome pest control videos. I've personally learned a lot and have eliminated cockroaches in my house.
I live in coastal, eastern NC and we have red fire ants. A friend of mine told me about the "transplant" method, where you take one anthill, scoop a good part of it with a shovel, and place it on another hill and in a few days they fight each other and die. Can you please explain from a professional view how this works, because from firsthand experience I was amazed. What are the mechanics behind this process and how do you do it from a professional standpoint? Thank you Guy!
That's a great hypothesis, but it is not based in fact. The truth is that some of the worker ants may fight each other, but it is unlikely to kill off the colony. Fire ants are amazingly tolerant of other colonies and often times they will actually merge. Unlike many ant species that have just one queen, fire ant colonies can have multiple queens, so colonies are happy to coexist right next to each other. Moving ants from one mound to another might actually create more mounds. So, the transplant method is not a good way to eliminate fire ants. If you want them gone, you can do it for about $10 and it's super fast to do. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to eliminate fire ants: ruclips.net/video/VReLWuT-jcQ/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for the response! I was only made aware of this method because I had an ant hill in an area of my lawn where I wanted to grow plants for consumption, so I was looking for a non-chemical way to rid them. My friend mentioned the transplant idea because he heard it from an exterminator in our area... I respect your experience, and I understand that it may just be anecdotal method. Have you personally ever heard any of your colleagues or clients try the transplanting? It could just be some redneck thing from where I'm from.. Lol . Thank you Guy
@@angrytrukker4672 I don't know of any pest controllers that would suggest treating fire ants by transplanting them. I think most of them would know better. I can give you a link to an article that busts all the myths about home remedies for fire ants. It's the fourth one down. There is a lot of misinformation out there, so you should always check to make sure that what you are being told is actually true. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
ant-pests.extension.org/debunking-common-fire-ant-myths/#:~:text=Myth%3A%20If%20you%20mix%20fire,but%20not%20the%20entire%20colony.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you Guy, you are a legend!
@@angrytrukker4672 You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Hey Guy-
I'm wondering what you think about PostSaver wraps that people put on fence posts that supposedly protect the wooden posts from termites. The product I've seen is a heat shrinkwrap but they can add up to get pricy.
I've also seen this online: "As a whole, the post and lumber specimens indicate an expected durability of over 50 years for creosote-treated wood and over 60 years for wood treated with pentachlorophenol, copper naphthenate, ACZA, or CCA." What's the best way to treat yard posts and deck posts so they don't get eaten by termites? It might make even make an interesting video- just an idea tx
The post saver wraps will not do anything to protect against termites, but they may do a good job extending the life of the fence posts. Fence posts usually rot out at the dirt line. The wraps can prevent this. The reason this happens is because the dirt is in direct contact with the post. What I do is I set the post in concrete so that the concrete covers about 2 inches of the post above the dirt line and then I slope it down to the ground so water cannot remain in contact with the post. This also prevents them from rotting. Both methods keep the water away from the post at ground level and that prevents the rotting.
Fence posts are usually rated for ground contact. That means they are already treated for termites. So, it takes a long time for ground contact lumber to become infested with termites. Over time the termite treatment can wane and you can get termites, but it usually takes a long time. Deck posts are not always ground contact rated. When that is the case you should treat them with Bora-Care and then seal them in some way. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it.
I also recommend a termite prevention program. If you tell me where you live I can make some recommendations about how to do that. Different locations have different species.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions great thank you!
Yes I suspected the sleeves were something of a gimmick. Some people paint the bottoms of posts with tar also not sure how much that helps
@@c.rutherford The tar will probably prevent the rot as well, but none of these things will protect against termites because the post is in the ground. The termites travel under ground, so they will just go under the tar, wrap, or whatever you cover the post with. You would need to wrap it from the bottom of the post to above the ground. That could work if there are not gaps in the wrap. Same for taring it. Again, the posts are usually rated for ground contact, so termite treatment is not necessary. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy! Thank you for your video!
I have two questions:
1. Can you have kick out and exit holes in brick?
2. If we notices dead insects that resemble termites in our attic but no damage is done to the wood around the dead insects, would that be termites?
While it is very unusual to have kickout holes and exit holes in brick, it is possible. Termites cannot eat through bricks and mortar, but there can be weep holes or cracks in the mortar that can allow termites to escape, and it is somewhat feasible that they could use those cracks to push out frass. Again, this would be quite uncommon.
The best thing to do with dead insects it to identify them. They could be termites. Termites do not live long in the open because the air dehydrates them. So, it is very common to see dead termite swarmers laying around. Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and take a photo of one of the specimens. It must be done correctly for me to identify it. Please note that iPhones are not good for this. Androids work much better. So, if you have an android or know someone with one, then that would be best. However, if an iPhone is all you have, then by all means, have a go at it. The worst that happens is that the photo will not focus well enough for me to ID it.
By the way, I will be on vacation starting on Monday. We have not taken a vacation in 15 years and my wife explained that it is time to do that. So, I will not be back until June 11. My wife puts up with me helping thousands of people with their pest problems all day long, so she does deserve to get pampered for a couple of weeks. If you have more questions, I promise that I will get back to you just as soon as possible upon my return. I'm sure that I will have several hundred questions backed up by then, but I will work as quickly as possible to try and get through all of them in a week. So, don't worry. I won't forget about you, and I will ID the specimen for you, if at all possible.
Be well Mattie.
Video on how to photograph a bug: ruclips.net/video/I8qd63hX6y8/видео.html
Guy,
I just had a whole house Reno done and the contractor found a small (12” long)mud tube inside the front of the house under a piece of baseboard molding They did not open the wall to check how much of an infestation, but I did call in a pest control company who put bait stations around the perimeter of the house. It is a slab foundation and there are no signs of mud tubes anywhere else. There is a slab ( 10’ of front porch) in front of the area that has the mud tube. I did spay termite killer into the cracks of the veneer and slab multiple times. I am going to use the Bio-Advanced 700350A around the house and water it in. I am in New Jersey , near the coast with sandy soil. Can you advise me if I’m doing the correct process?
The good news is that you live in New Jersey because you only have one species of termites there and they are very easy to treat. The bad news is that you live in New Jersey and they have just made it illegal to sell the termite granules. If you can obtain the granules, that would probably be a very good way for you to go. Even though the granules have been banned in New Jersey, Amazon may still ship them to you. If you cannot obtain the granules, then you can wait for the baiting system to work, or you trench around the house. New Jersey still has not banned Taurus SC, and that is what you need to do the trenching. I will give you a link to the granules and a link to my video on how to trench, in case you cannot obtain the granules, and you don't want to take a chance on the baiting system.
The bait stations that were installed may get the job done, but it is going to be slow. The granules or trenching will eliminate the colony at about 12 weeks. It can take up to two years if you use a bait system. Sometimes the bait system will take out the colony in as little as 6 months, but sometimes it doesn't work at all. Pest control companies like to use bait because it is easy to do and they make a lot of money on it, but I never recommend doing that for an active infestation. I'm sure they tied your hands in a contract for at least a year, so I recommend that you dump them as soon as the contract will allow. Meanwhile, if the termites find the bait stations, which will usually happen, then these stations will usually eliminate the colony. You should also know that the kind of termites you have are very slow eaters, so it takes time for them to do a lot of damage. So, it would not be the end of the world if you relied solely on this bait, but the termites will go on eating your home while the bait is working.
Spraying the termite killer into the cracks was not a good idea, but I see people do this all the time. Termites are pretty scary and people usually have kind of a knee-jerk reaction, and feel the need to do something right away. Unfortunately, treating termites like this is one of the worst things that you can do. It's okay though because you can effectively treat this species from the ground. If you had not treated them like that, we could have turned that area into and effective bait, but that is no longer an option. Please do not feel bad about that though because everybody does it. The problem is still very treatable with the granules, trenching, or simply waiting for those bait stations to work.
The bottom line is, if I were in your situation, I would try to obtain the granules. If I could not do that, then I would wait for the bait to do it's job. Most likely the bait will take out the colony, albeit somewhat slowly. It's your home though, so if you cannot find the granules and you want the termites gone fast, then you would need to trench.
Please note that there are 2 kinds of granules that are made by Bayer. You need the ones that use imidacloprid as the active ingredient. The other one does not work. The correct granules are no longer available from the big box stores.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k0_1_6&=&crid=2TE2I7P521RVR&sprefix=termit&th=1
Video comparing trenching to baiting for termites: ruclips.net/video/jrPrr5DdB_g/видео.html
Thank you very much! I have a stump about 15 feet from my house that has termites. Do I have to trench and treat or can I use the granuals.
You do need to treat the stump. I will give you the procedure for it. You can usually get away with just using the granules. Keep in mind that For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25.
To treat the stump, drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutionsyou are Amazing Ty.
@@Beltreality Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy, Great explanation. So, if I do have an active infestation, should I skip granules (imidacloprid) and go for Taurus SC? Am I late for granules? Thank you.
@@nukestrom5719 Not at all. The granules work for 95% of homes, even when you have an active infestation. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
I bought my home 30+ years ago. The sellers had the front buried behind tall pine trees. I had the inspector give the OK on pests. The pine at the corner of my porch was close enough , you could climb and step onto the roof! I had them all removed as soon as I moved in. There was a heavy coat on pine needles on the porch roof as well. So the hot day that I had the trees removed, and needles cleaned up, I came home from work to find hundreds of carpenter ants scurrying out of the roof sheathing above my gutters!! A lot were carrying eggs as well. Talk about panicking! I sprayed them as they exited with bug killer, and they dropped and died. Called the inspector, and he came back and shot, what I think now, might have been fipronil. He said if any are left in there ,this will get them out. So apparently they were gone. The heat of the sun , now baking the roof was too much for them. No longer cool and damp. I had to cut about 2 feet of plywood off the whole front edge, where it was obvious they were nesting . Later on I would still seen carpenter ants walking around the ground , and bought a bag of diazinon crystals and sprinkled bands of about 4 feet all around the perimeter ofmy home, and that apparently cleared them all. But I kept repeating later on if I seen a few hanging around. If you watch those ants closely, you will see them taking the same trail back and forth passing other ants along the way. Sure enough, those trails got a taste of my goodies!! Im not sure you can even buy diazinon in stores anymore. It was good stuff for sure
You can do the same thing with Bifen XTS and a hose end sprayer. It's quick and easy. I have a video on how to do that. I treat my entire yard with it every 60 days. You can also treat the exterior of you house as well. This will stop almost all pests from getting into your home. There are a few exceptions, but not many. I will give you the links. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat your yard: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Guy, I found several termites under the ground dead and on the frame of the doors at the basement. So definitively I have subterran termites in base of your recommendation. I got the formula to mix with water and apply around the house. Is there another recommendation?
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. You may have an aggressive species that gets treated somewhat differently and you may even have dampwood termites the get treated very differently. So, let's confirm the species before you treat, so you don't waste time and money treating the wrong species. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Hello Guy. Thank you so much for your quick and helpful respond. Yes, I watched the video and looking into the characteristics pointed in the video seems that I have a subterranean because they have a black body. Also my house is located in Pennsylvania, 2.5 hours up from Philly.
@@albertomunoz2912 Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I have been away for the last three days and I was not able to answer questions. You definitely have subterranean termites and they are usually pretty easy to treat. Do not apply a liquid pesticide for this problem right now. You may be able to get away with using termite granules. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Hello Guy. Awesome. I appreciate your guidance through this treatment. I learned a lot with you and you are going to help me to save a lot of money. I ordered the granular treatment from Amazon. As soon I get it, I will be applying it. I will let you know the outcome of this for sure. Thank you again. I love your videos and I am watching all of them. All are funny and easy to understand. Great job and glad to have on RUclips an expert person helping to save time and money.
@@albertomunoz2912 You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Only drywood termites create kickout holes to push out their excrement? I know a house that had tunnels exposed on concrete block in a garage and when tunnels were wirebrushed away and the block was painted, little brown granules started appearing in tiny holes in the block which I assume are kickout holes but this is in NJ where I thought drywood termites don't really occur.....
You are correct again. There are no drywood termites in NJ. You only have subterranean termites. They do not create kick out holes, but they do create exit holes. The exit holes are used for the swarmers to leave and start new colonies. These guys are not able to colonize in your home, so they will all die. It is very nice of them to come out and let you know that you have a termite infestation though. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks again. I believe that the holes that haven't been plugged by me are cracks that are pretty small but they are pushing brown stuff out which gathers up or bunches up on the wall, and the rest falls to the floor. I suspect they have a path to ground through the inside of the block because the voids were not filled with concrete when the house was constructed. They have revealed their presence to be a currently active one!
@@captainwho1 Unfortunately, since NJ just banned the sale of termite granules, you will need to trench to eliminate the infestation. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that correctly, in case you have not watched it already. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites correctly: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
I trenched 2 years ago because I saw subt termite damage. Used the no-drill method around slabs. Yesterday I drilled a hole in a joist and termites started falling out of it! Just ordered fipronil foam. I see mud tubes in the basement but all I can find are dried out and appear inactive. My question is how will I know I’ve been successful after drilling and foaming the active joist? I trusted the trench method would have been effective but since it was not, I am concerned about more ongoing damage.
Please tell me where you live. Location matters when it comes to termites. Let's make sure that this is not a different species that needs to be treated differently.
You can still go ahead and foam the infested area, but please do it correctly. To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Guy, that is a huge help. I will do it. I am in Indiana, by the way. How would you say I should check to be sure they’ve been killed effectively?
@@aaronfredrick7705 The good news is that you only have subterranean termites where you live. The bad news is that either something went wrong with the trenching or you may have a colony under the house. You should not be having termites after 2 years. Did you do the trenching the way I show you in my video? If you have not watched that video, then please have a look at it to make sure that you did everything right. If you did, then there is a good chance that the colony is under the house. This does not happen very often, but it does happen. Please tell me about the foundation of the house. Do you have a full basement or a crawl space? If it's a crawl space, does it have a dirt floor? The spot treatment may take care of the problem, but it is very possible that you will need to do a treatment under the house as well. Be well my friend.
Video on how to trench correctly for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
I believe I followed the instructions correctly, but here I am with termites. The foundation is half basement, half crawl, and the crawl is dirt. I was able to do the foam treatment today where there is activity.
@@aaronfredrick7705 I recommend that you go under the crawl space and look to see if there are mud tubes in contact with the ground. Please get back to me if you see any. If not, then you may want to consider installing monitoring stations around the house. If the termites are attacking, then they will probably find one of the stations and you can treat them there. You can buy them for $15 each or you can make them yourself for 50 cents each. I will give you the links. My video explains how to make the stations and what to do it one goes off.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
RedEye stations: www.solutionsstores.com/red-eye-termite-monitor
Thanks! Bought 78oz and a aerosol can “deal” per your link in your email
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words and for the tip. Both are very much appreciated. Please tell me where you live. When it comes to termites, location matters because different areas of the US and other places in the world have different species. Some subterranean species require additional treatment sometimes and not all termites are subterranean. I just want to make sure that you are going after a species where trenching alone will work. 90% of the time that is the case, but let's make sure. Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions your welcome, I’m in north GA, i have made a big mistake purchasing a house with now apparent termite damage and it’s pretty significant. That’s spilled milk at this point though. Anyhow I haven’t been able to catch any of the boogers yet. I do think I’ve seen a flying example. It seemed to be an orange-ISH color. Maybe in the email later I’ll be able to get some pictures of the damage. I’m not quite sure if it’s tubes or not. there are some dirt trails, but it seems too small compared to the places/channels they’ve eaten.
@@roz4747 Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I have been away for the last three days and I was not able to answer questions. I am back now and I'm working hard to try and catch up. I have about 300 unanswered questions to get to. Hopefully, I will get caught up by mid week. You have two main species where you live and one of them can be very problematic. However, the most common species is very easy to eliminate. If flying termite is orange, then you have a big problem because that happens to be the species that is problematic. So, please get a flathead screwdriver and dig into the damaged area and try to pull out a termite with a red head. If you can get one, then put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. Then take a photo of it and send it to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please watch my video on how to properly photograph a bug. The photo needs to be taken correctly. You can also send a photo of a swarmer if you like. Those are the ones that fly. After I see one of these guys I will be ale to tell you what to do. Be well my friend.
Video on how to properly photograph a bug: ruclips.net/video/I8qd63hX6y8/видео.html
Hey please answer my comment I don’t know what to do I can’t afford 700 dollar pest control company to come out and put bait stations down I have no termites inside but I have fire wood 20 feet away from the house that has termites in it the pest control guy said to leave it because I remove it it would take there food away which will make them look for food which would be my house
No problem. Here's what you do. Take a can of spray paint and spray a border on the ground that is about 6 to 12 inches wider than the pile on all sides. Move the wood off that marked out area. Dig out that area 6 inches deep and soak the hole with Taurus SC, mixed 0.8 ounces per gallon of water. A gardening watering can works great for this. Fill in the hole with 3 inches of dirt and soak it again well with the Taurus SC mixture. Then finish filling in the hole and soak it again with the Taurus SC mixture. Now put the firewood back where it was. The entire colony will most likely be totally wiped out within about 12 weeks. If the dirt is kind of muddy, then let it dry out for a day, if necessary, but it's a good idea to put a few of the infested logs back in place while it's all drying. You want to keep them eating. Problem solved.
By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Hi is there anything you can recommend to treat without having to put out thousands of dollars and drilling
I have dry wood termite
Spend a Saturday to Drill, Trench, & soak it all by yourself, it's worth doing. You'd only spend $$$ on the chemical. Just do it. It's part of taking care of a building. Just think, If you built the structure yourself, you wouldn't hesitate!
You cannot treat drywood termites by trenching. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thank you
Good advice for subterranean termites, but trenching does not work for drywood termites because they literally fly to your house. They never colonize in the ground like subterranean termites do, so trenching will not bother them. Unfortunately, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate the building. After that, they will keep coming back because the neighbor's have them too and they swarm for several months out of the year. So, you always need to do a preventive treatment every 60 days to keep them away, after the tent comes down. I can't stand these guys. Be well my friend.
If I find termites in a tree trunk or fallen trees what should I do
To treat tree stumps, drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it.
Fallen trees are best removed. If you cannot remove the tree, then cut all the limbs and branches off and get rid of them. Then dig a trench around the tree that is 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep. Mix Taurus SC 0.8 oz per gallon in a 5 gallon bucket and apply 4 gallons for every 10 feet of trench. Make some sort of barrier to section off the trench in 10 foot sections or just dig 10 feet at a time. After treating the trench, fill it in with 3 inches of dirt and soak that dirt with the Taurus SC mixture. A common garden watering can works well for this. Finish filling in the trench and then soak it again with the Taurus SC mixture.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Purchased a home and got a clean bill of health on no active termites. 1 year later and found major infestation. Had a termite company come out and installed sentricon stations in the ground for active Formosan and sub terrain termite's (3k worth of stations). Currently 6 months into this process with them and still very active termites inside the house. Found over a 100 eating on the above ground stations last week. Have holes in the wall that we opened up and found where they have ate the floor decking, exterior wall decking, trim moldings and 2x4's to nothing left. They are eating away at the house and the company doesn't seem to care about getting these termites killed. They put in above ground bait stations that they come back every 2 weeks and replace the bait. Need a true professional if you know anyone in the Lake Jackson, TX area that actually is a professional in termites. Was told to not touch anything or start demo til everything is cleared out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I am so sorry that this happened to you. In my personal opinion, you should never use a bait system to try to treat an active infestation of Formosan termites. The reason for this is that almost all baits, like Sentricon, use an insect growth regulator (IGR) instead of an actual pesticide that works on the nervous system. The only thing an insect growth regulator does is it prevents the termites from reproducing. Unfortunately, termite workers can live up to two years, and IGRs do nothing to kill them. Further, unlike other species of subterranean termites where the colony only contains a couple of hundred thousand termites, with Formosan colonies, they can contain millions of termites. These guys branch out into multiple directions from the colony in search of food. So, a lot of food is being brought back to that massive colony. There is no knowing if the queen will actually eat the food that is being provided by the bait stations at your house. If you get lucky, the queen will eat that bait and stop producing offspring. Even if that happens, it can still take a very long time for all the workers that are eating your house to die. Meanwhile, Formosan termites are very fast eaters, and they will do a massive amount of damage to your home in a very short period of time. That is why we call them "super termites." For all these reasons, I am not a big fan of trying to use a bait to kill off a Formosan termite colony. In my opinion, the only way to approach this problem is to trench around the entire house and treat with a fipronil termiticide, such as Termidor SC, Taurus SC, or similar product. If you have time, please watch my video comparing baiting to trenching.
My recommendation is to do the trenching yourself, so that you know it was done correctly. You cannot even trust a lot of pest control companies to do the trenching the right way. Please watch my video on how to treat Formosan termites. After you trench, then you need to look for cartons inside the house. Formosan termites are one of the few species that is capable of colonizing in your home. They do this by building cartons in your walls and other voids, like above the ceiling. These cartons give them the ability to survive without returning to the colony. So, to eliminate the entire infestation, you must also find and remove these cartons. My video will show you how to find them.
With regard to the pest control company that you are currently working with, you need to understand that treating this yourself will probably violate your contract. So, you need to decide if that is worth doing. Keep in mind that the termites may be eating your home for a very long time if you do not do it and they are very fast eaters. The company should still be replacing the bait and servicing the contract, but they will probably not stand behind any damage that was done. Of course, you should also be aware that it is highly unlikely that the company would stand behind the damage anyway. Please watch my video on termite warranties and bonds. In that video I explain most of the gotchas that will exist in the contract. One of those gotchas is that they are most likely not responsible for any damage that is done before the colony is eradicated. That means that they are not responsible for any of the damage that is being caused right now. Further, I would be willing to bet the ranch that you will also find an arbitration clause in the contract. That means you cannot sue them for any reason. Therefore, since their warranty is not worth the paper it is written on, and you cannot take them to court, you may as well just go ahead and take care of this yourself. Anyway, that is exactly what I would do. Unfortunately, because of the way the contract is written, it is unlikely that you will get your money back.
Again, I am so sorry that this happened to you. At least now you know the truth.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Video explaining termite warranties: ruclips.net/video/lWUdyyxotjg/видео.html
Video comparing baiting to trenching: ruclips.net/video/jrPrr5DdB_g/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for this response. I got more accurate and honest information from you in this response than I have in 6 months of this process. I was highly mis lead on the in ground stations but now I'm aware of what there its true job is. I'm a active DIY'er so I just purchased the Taurus and will be doing the trenching. The house sits on 12x12 beams with closed foam insulation under the floor decking so I'll be doing it around the beams. We do get mothers day swarmer termites every year and was wondering if I should spray with Bifen I/T or stick with the Taurus around all the windows and under the house? I also have a bottle of Navigator SC and Termidor SC left I haven't done anything with yet.
There is a clause in the contract I signed. They were focused on one 10x10 area in the bathroom for 3 months and I had to take matters into my own hands and start opening walls in the bedroom to show them where they additionally were. At this point the amount of damage they have additionally done out ways any contract and warranty with them. Its pennies on the dollar compared to the damage being done.
Just want to say thank you again for pointing me in the right direction. It is greatly appreciated sir.
Is your house on piers? If so, trench around each pier the same way you would a foundation. The Termidor SC and the Navigator SC is the same thing as the Taurus SC, so you can use what you have. Trenching correctly is the key. That will eliminate the underground colony. Then it's just a matter of fining all the cartons and removing them.
Thank you so much for those very kind words. If you would like to repay me, then please pass me along to others who may be in need of pest control advice. A recommendation is the greatest compliment you can pay me. My goal is to help as many people as possible and you can help. It would be very much appreciated. I am not exactly saving the world, but I have saved people over 100 million dollars so far, and that is still very rewarding.
Be well my friend.
How do I contact you?
You can send an email to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Be well Beth.
Mr Guy how to kill termites in stumps.
To treat stumps, drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817