I am just a homeowner who had this problem and couldn't get fixed by HVAC contractors due to intermittent nature of problem. I finally fixed problem myself by removing long condensate hose leading to the floor drain and replaced it with a short 4" long hose draining into 4" pvc pipe with a cap glued on the bottom. Then I installed a hose fitting on the bottom of the pvc cap and ran a hose to the floor drain. This creates an air gap or stand pipe for the condensate. I have done this with two furnaces that had problems and now they both run great. When I want to flush the condensate line, I just pour a pitcher of water down the pvc pipe and make sure it drains quickly.
That happened to me on a no heat call a few months ago. The unit was a 2013 Carrier 95% with an ECM motor. About the same thing happened in this video except there was also dirt in the trap and one of the pressure switch hoses had water clogged in there as well. Cleaned the living crap out of the trap and cleared the hose leading to the pressure switch. I also did a little maintenance by cleaning the flame sensor, making sure the filter was good and making sure the sequence of operation was not interrupted during the heating cycle (Customer didn't have maintenance done in a bit). Unit came back on like nothing happened to it. Definitely not fun to do in a crawlspace with a bunch of those massive cave crickets (sprikets or criders as some call it), but was glad to see the customers was heating again before the winter months hit. Thanks for the video! Extremely helpful for a tech who is beginning to get their feet wet in this field! 😎👍🏾
You did a good job! I always do flame sensor, condensate, filter, and capacitor check (if applicable) on any furnace I check even if it's just a bad thermostat. It will help you avoid call backs
My case was similar to this (Day and Night brand) which is Carrier. Cleaning trap- condensation didn't solve the problem because the problem still exists. Called technical support and recommended inducer replacement. replaced inducer work for 3 weeks then started making a noise like a 1960 Chevy muffler. Called tech support again and recommended replacing the trap and inducer with a choker install. I did what they asked me to do, and it worked ever without any problem.
I’m doing new construction on these carriers now two of the biggest issues are pressure switches stuck closed and exhaust flue pipe not draining back to the collection box because the PVC is bowed back to the drain. And nobody wants to check static and gas pressure to set the blower speeds up. The new carrier furnaces have an app to set the profile on carrier service tech app. Goodman has coolcloud app… great video
Great videos as always. There is 1 problem carrier also has. The male fitting where the pressure switch tubing connects to is sometimes filled with water and this is due to the 6 to 8 aluminum fins behind the inducer need to be bent 90 deg towards HEX. Please let me know if any of you came across this, causes a lot of issues on the carriers.
Hey I’m having an issue with a Bryant furnace we installed about 3 months ago. I’m thinking this is possibly it it keeps giving me code 32 intermittently How should I bend the tabs ????
@@Pseudify Except when the conglomerates own all of the garbage brands and whichever product you buy , your money goes to the same conglomerate corporation. There are only a few choices in reality.
This just happened to me on a Goodman furnace, water backed up into inducer motor from clogged trap. Why is the trap so difficult to remove and clean if it’s such a common problem? Thanks for this great informative video!
You are a great teacher! I like how detailed your explanations are. I would like to see a breakdown on derating gas furnaces for high altitude. I am at 5500' elevation and work on equipment between 5500' and 8000'. Also do you have plans for a gas heating book? or recommendations on good gas heating books? Thanks!
Another nice video as always I like your videos. When you’re publishing another book like steps by steps heating gas furnace procedures like the same book you had for Air Conditioning?
Had a situation where the condensate drain was backing up and the inducer and fan motor just kept on running with a 3 blink error code showing pressure switch stuck open. The pvc drain wasn't allowing any air into pipe and water was stuck inside. Added a Tee and water began to fall out better.
I believe trap issues are caused by incorrect plumbing after the trap and incorrect temp rise ( too low) over the heat exchanger. Correct those issues and the trap will not plug up
Had this problem with a Goodman furnace. It would intermittently trip during the night time and It took me 3 recalls to the customers house to figure it out 😢
I'm surprised you said the trap needs to be cleaned. I rarely see that problem. I usually see poor drainage from the exhaust to the drain. The slope of the exhaust is usually not good enough. Honestly, if we all just started using a exhaust trap drain bypass these furnaces would work much better for longer.
Agree 100%. They should provide a tap fitting and hose for the air switch connection. And we could field build a trap in the condensate drain then, could also then install at the top, to make flushing the line annually super easy. Failing this just mount the trap externally to the jacket of the appliance.
I had an issue with the condensation in the trap with my dual fuel unit freezing up. It is in the attic, and when the outside temp dropped into the teens, the gas heat would quit. I built a foam box around the unit and piped a little bit of heat into the foam box. End of problem. I was wondering if I could just have switched back to the heatpump to thaw it out?
up to how many degrees celsius the external ambient temperature can the motor of the split and vrf air conditioner withstand, minimum and maximum temperature
So if pressure switch isn't working, condensate trap fills with water and leaks past the o-ring seal? That's what appears to be happening with my furnace. The drain line is clear, but not draining. Condensate trap could use cleaning maybe, but does not appear to be malfunctioning, apart from the overflow past the o-ring.
My red air hose that goes to the bottom of the round sensor you were talking about gets a small amount of water in it during winter time and shuts down my furnace. And so I have to climb into my attic and pour the water out of the hose and use a twist tie in the bottom of the round sensor to help the bubble valve inside it not be frozen shut to get my unit to run again. Any thoughts on this?
It's a condensing furnace. It takes so much heat out of the air , water vapor in the air condenses to water. It collects in the secondary, to the collector box, to the condensate trap.
Latent heat. If liquid water at 100°C is changed into steam, the heat added (the latent heat of vaporization) is 540 calories for every gram of water. If steam at 100°C is changed into the water at 100° C, 540 calories for every gram of steam must be subtracted. What this lazy on my part cut /paste is saying is that when the water re condenses in the flu and then drains to the drain you are recovering about 970 btu per 28.33 liters of drain water.... theres a reason it's 28.33 liters... 1 btu is about the same energy as 1 wooden match ( 1055.06 joules of energy ) So you are getting a lot of energy you otherwise would lose, the byproduct being acidic water. :)
My inducer motor makes a loud constant vibrating noise on startup. When I firmly press on the motor the noises is gone. Are there any quick fixes for that vibrating noise?! Maybe some love taps?!
Why is the condensate trap opaque on the service side and transparent on the heat exchanger side? You would think it would be reverse to easily see if it needs servicing... Seems nefarious.
@@NorCal-refrigerationI installed an 80 percenter for my parents 2 years ago. I did new home build warranty service for 3 years and the amount of issues the 90’s have there was just no way I’d put my parents through that. There’s variables like horrible duct design in new homes too but still
Make sure no condensate gas entered the line TO the pressure switch, and check its orientation, if its horizontal at all it can cause issues as these operate on very low pressures. VERY IMPORTANT . Never ever blow into any line connected to the air switch, if you used a vaccume or compressed air on ANY PART OF THE DRAIN LINE, to "clear it" you've likely destroyed it and need to replace it. No joke, I just replaced one, it was the day after the customers wife cleaned their mech room, and vaccumed using a shop vac around the drain connection, I knew to ask cause there was no dust in mech room and the vac was still sitting there.
I think the key was the choker. However, the design is very poor. the condensation trap has no room for slope. They should design the trap clear and 1/2" higher for better slope(positive slope) and better water flow.
Excuse me I got furnes 96% I got same. Code 9h f01 f02 I couldn't find the information abut the code Could help me. If can or sell me nyinformation abut this issue plis if can. How i can get training from you.
I would love to see AC Service Tech to get into commercial/industrial HVAC; Boilers, chillers, cooling towers, VAV reheat systems and such.
I am just a homeowner who had this problem and couldn't get fixed by HVAC contractors due to intermittent nature of problem. I finally fixed problem myself by removing long condensate hose leading to the floor drain and replaced it with a short 4" long hose draining into 4" pvc pipe with a cap glued on the bottom. Then I installed a hose fitting on the bottom of the pvc cap and ran a hose to the floor drain. This creates an air gap or stand pipe for the condensate. I have done this with two furnaces that had problems and now they both run great. When I want to flush the condensate line, I just pour a pitcher of water down the pvc pipe and make sure it drains quickly.
That happened to me on a no heat call a few months ago. The unit was a 2013 Carrier 95% with an ECM motor. About the same thing happened in this video except there was also dirt in the trap and one of the pressure switch hoses had water clogged in there as well. Cleaned the living crap out of the trap and cleared the hose leading to the pressure switch. I also did a little maintenance by cleaning the flame sensor, making sure the filter was good and making sure the sequence of operation was not interrupted during the heating cycle (Customer didn't have maintenance done in a bit). Unit came back on like nothing happened to it. Definitely not fun to do in a crawlspace with a bunch of those massive cave crickets (sprikets or criders as some call it), but was glad to see the customers was heating again before the winter months hit. Thanks for the video! Extremely helpful for a tech who is beginning to get their feet wet in this field! 😎👍🏾
You did a good job! I always do flame sensor, condensate, filter, and capacitor check (if applicable) on any furnace I check even if it's just a bad thermostat. It will help you avoid call backs
My case was similar to this (Day and Night brand) which is Carrier. Cleaning trap- condensation didn't solve the problem because the problem still exists. Called technical support and recommended inducer replacement. replaced inducer work for 3 weeks then started making a noise like a 1960 Chevy muffler. Called tech support again and recommended replacing the trap and inducer with a choker install. I did what they asked me to do, and it worked ever without any problem.
I’m doing new construction on these carriers now two of the biggest issues are pressure switches stuck closed and exhaust flue pipe not draining back to the collection box because the PVC is bowed back to the drain. And nobody wants to check static and gas pressure to set the blower speeds up. The new carrier furnaces have an app to set the profile on carrier service tech app. Goodman has coolcloud app… great video
Great videos as always. There is 1 problem carrier also has. The male fitting where the pressure switch tubing connects to is sometimes filled with water and this is due to the 6 to 8 aluminum fins behind the inducer need to be bent 90 deg towards HEX. Please let me know if any of you came across this, causes a lot of issues on the carriers.
Hey I’m having an issue with a Bryant furnace we installed about 3 months ago. I’m thinking this is possibly it it keeps giving me code 32 intermittently
How should I bend the tabs ????
@@Onemanhvac bend the tabs towards HEAT EXCHANGER, don't bend em towards u, make sure they are bent 90 degrees and see if this fixes it.
Do you have any field pics of this issue ?
Why do the manufacturers not make these traps more cleaning friendly?
Also, putting the clear side facing out would help identify potential issues.
Ya I agree, put a rubber gasket and let me open it up or have a clear side like he showed for quick inspection.
They did it on purpose. So you have to call company to check your furnace
Because they want to sell parts and new heaters. They have no interest in making their product user serviceable or to last longer.
@@davidparker9676. Except for the fact that people won’t buy their products any more.
@@Pseudify Except when the conglomerates own all of the garbage brands and whichever product you buy , your money goes to the same conglomerate corporation. There are only a few choices in reality.
Great video Craig. Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Happy New Year Craig!
This just happened to me on a Goodman furnace, water backed up into inducer motor from clogged trap. Why is the trap so difficult to remove and clean if it’s such a common problem? Thanks for this great informative video!
You are a great teacher! I like how detailed your explanations are. I would like to see a breakdown on derating gas furnaces for high altitude. I am at 5500' elevation and work on equipment between 5500' and 8000'. Also do you have plans for a gas heating book? or recommendations on good gas heating books? Thanks!
Another nice video as always I like your videos. When you’re publishing another book like steps by steps heating gas furnace procedures like the same book you had for Air Conditioning?
Great video, Great Teacher!
Had a situation where the condensate drain was backing up and the inducer and fan motor just kept on running with a 3 blink error code showing pressure switch stuck open. The pvc drain wasn't allowing any air into pipe and water was stuck inside. Added a Tee and water began to fall out better.
Can you make a video explaining hydronic systems and the fan relay on them.
I believe trap issues are caused by incorrect plumbing after the trap and incorrect temp rise ( too low) over the heat exchanger. Correct those issues and the trap will not plug up
Had this problem with a Goodman furnace. It would intermittently trip during the night time and It took me 3 recalls to the customers house to figure it out 😢
I'm surprised you said the trap needs to be cleaned. I rarely see that problem. I usually see poor drainage from the exhaust to the drain. The slope of the exhaust is usually not good enough. Honestly, if we all just started using a exhaust trap drain bypass these furnaces would work much better for longer.
Agree 100%. They should provide a tap fitting and hose for the air switch connection. And we could field build a trap in the condensate drain then, could also then install at the top, to make flushing the line annually super easy. Failing this just mount the trap externally to the jacket of the appliance.
I had an issue with the condensation in the trap with my dual fuel unit freezing up. It is in the attic, and when the outside temp dropped into the teens, the gas heat would quit. I built a foam box around the unit and piped a little bit of heat into the foam box. End of problem. I was wondering if I could just have switched back to the heatpump to thaw it out?
very educative.Thank you .regards
up to how many degrees celsius the external ambient temperature can the motor of the split and vrf air conditioner withstand, minimum and maximum temperature
Great video
So if pressure switch isn't working, condensate trap fills with water and leaks past the o-ring seal? That's what appears to be happening with my furnace. The drain line is clear, but not draining. Condensate trap could use cleaning maybe, but does not appear to be malfunctioning, apart from the overflow past the o-ring.
So if i understand this correctly, if the condensate trap is clean and drain is pitched correctly there should be no or less problems?
My red air hose that goes to the bottom of the round sensor you were talking about gets a small amount of water in it during winter time and shuts down my furnace. And so I have to climb into my attic and pour the water out of the hose and use a twist tie in the bottom of the round sensor to help the bubble valve inside it not be frozen shut to get my unit to run again. Any thoughts on this?
Great video! Thanks!
Water leak under condensate trap Heil unit less than year old. Any ideas where it’s coming from? Thanks
My P-Trap was full of mold! Question where exactly is the water coming from? Is that condensate from the outside of the heat exchanger?
Byproduct of burning gas.
It's a condensing furnace. It takes so much heat out of the air , water vapor in the air condenses to water. It collects in the secondary, to the collector box, to the condensate trap.
Latent heat.
If liquid water at 100°C is changed into steam, the heat added (the latent heat of vaporization) is 540 calories for every gram of water. If steam at 100°C is changed into the water at 100° C, 540 calories for every gram of steam must be subtracted.
What this lazy on my part cut /paste is saying is that when the water re condenses in the flu and then drains to the drain you are recovering about 970 btu per 28.33 liters of drain water.... theres a reason it's 28.33 liters...
1 btu is about the same energy as 1 wooden match ( 1055.06 joules of energy )
So you are getting a lot of energy you otherwise would lose, the byproduct being acidic water. :)
The issue I have is that, that foam seal imprints and may not seal back up after a removal and cleaning of that trap for those newer models…
My inducer motor makes a loud constant vibrating noise on startup. When I firmly press on the motor the noises is gone. Are there any quick fixes for that vibrating noise?! Maybe some love taps?!
Why is the condensate trap opaque on the service side and transparent on the heat exchanger side? You would think it would be reverse to easily see if it needs servicing... Seems nefarious.
Do you have a link for that yellow T
There's no excuse for shavings.
Can your E Books be installed on multiple devices? eg. desktop computer, iphone, tablet etc?
Thank you!
Thanks want about ultra lownex pls do some research carrier and Lennox
Please do a video on ultra low nox furnaces
Secondary heat exchanger failure. Happens from the trap getting plugged. Those are 10 year furnaces.
When you know, you know.
@@natepeterson7145 I replace them with 80% ers every chance I get 🤭😂
@@NorCal-refrigerationI installed an 80 percenter for my parents 2 years ago. I did new home build warranty service for 3 years and the amount of issues the 90’s have there was just no way I’d put my parents through that. There’s variables like horrible duct design in new homes too but still
100% correct. Same here. Go with 80%. When my 90% fails, I'll be going back with an 80 again. Just not worth it.@@NorCal-refrigeration
Glad you said it this way. Cuz that's been my observation too.
Very niece sir ji ❤❤❤❤🇮🇳
I have the exact same furnace and the same pressure switch on mine gets stuck closed once in a while. Even after replacing what could be the cause.
Make sure no condensate gas entered the line TO the pressure switch, and check its orientation, if its horizontal at all it can cause issues as these operate on very low pressures. VERY IMPORTANT . Never ever blow into any line connected to the air switch, if you used a vaccume or compressed air on ANY PART OF THE DRAIN LINE, to "clear it" you've likely destroyed it and need to replace it. No joke, I just replaced one, it was the day after the customers wife cleaned their mech room, and vaccumed using a shop vac around the drain connection, I knew to ask cause there was no dust in mech room and the vac was still sitting there.
If you ever see that trap gurgle, you have an obstruction in your vent. The pressure switch will not close.
I think the key was the choker. However, the design is very poor. the condensation trap has no room for slope. They should design the trap clear and 1/2" higher for better slope(positive slope) and better water flow.
Excuse me I got furnes 96%
I got same. Code 9h f01 f02 I couldn't find the information abut the code
Could help me. If can or sell me nyinformation abut this issue plis if can. How i can get training from you.
My condensate line (runs outside) freezes at least once a year. Any good solution?
You could try to add a condensate pump. Then run the clear plastic hose to either a utility tub or like mine it dumps into the washing machine drain.
dont run it outside .
The most common problem I found on high efficiency furnaces is the intake the flu gets clogged up with leaves
Increase the diameter of the condensate drain pipe.
My 90 plus Tempstar furnace is 20 yrs old and I have never cleaned the trap after the secondary heat exchanger Just luck ? 🤷♂️
I know it's a trap but maybe a put a tee right outside the furnace. Let me know.
👍👍
Off subject. But I really hope your not using galvanized pipe on NG.
PLEASE WILL YOU POST ABOUT COMMUNICATING system… all in and out 🫣 Evoution systems etc..,