Thanks Ron...I was just thinking..hmmm..I have one 3/4 sheet of plywood in my garage and 3 sheets of 1/2....I wonder if I can build his bench with that...and here you are..
I made two benches with your plans 3/4 for home use and 1/2 inch for work. I like the weight of my half inch especially when loading and unloading at job sites. Both are about 10 years old and going strong. Thanks Ron.
I have built the compact bench a couple years ago and used 12mm (1/2in) ply for the bottom and interior spreaders. I have had NO ISSUES with strength and sturdiness. I made and am using the SMART workstation saw horses (because I like the material holders) and the bench with the thinner ply bottom works fine with the homemade horses. I do have a 3/4in top with the bench dog holes. I built this from plans for your previous series of benches. I am even using your original pipe rail system for table saw support and with the thinner bottom and spreaders, have zero problem. Great design. Works very well.
Ron, I've built 2 of the miter saw tables out of all 1/2" they work great and are nice and light weight. I did not do they holes for bench dogs, so thats not an issue for my use. I trim houses in KC, we trim a house every 2 weeks, so set up and break down is important. Love all your content! Thanks a bunch!
I've built my first PSB out of 18 mm plywood with phenolic coating. It's high grade plywood, it's dense, the bench is a rock, and weights this much as well. It fits perfectly in my workshop where I need to make room when I don't need it, but I can't see myself moving it around a lot. For my my jobsite "dwarf" PSB, I went with 18mm for the top and 15 mm phenolic coated for everything else and it's great. I'm not sure how 12mm would fare but I'm really happy with15mm. The sawhorses are also made with 15mm plywood and they are doing great too.
I built the PSB according to plans, substituting the 18mm with 12mm birch ply (because I had sheets of 12mm left). I was initially worried about stability but it is very sturdy. Had a lot of fun building it too, great plans. 👍🏻
I’ve been wondering about the feasibility of building your bench(es) with 1/2” ply for some time. I would appreciate you demonstrating the pros and cons. Thanks for your videos.
I built my most recent with 1/2" sides and bottom but stuck with the 3/4" top. So far, it's my favorite. I also cut matchfit dovetail slots in the top so 3/4 is a requirement
Ron Paula, I am a contractor in Northern Michigan. I subscribed to you a number of years ago. You Sir have mastered a number of things that I have always wanted to do. My hats off to you!!! You Sir are spot on!! Keep up the great work!!! I appreciate your wisdom!! Your friend in Northern Michigan.
ron - video request for you - I'd love to see an updated video of how you do each carpentry task with each of your latest benches/upgrades. How you break down a piece of plywood, how you cut a pattern, how you use a router table, how you cross cut a piece of plywood, how you use the miter saw, etc. Basically going through the latest and greatest of each thing you've created with tips and techniques that you use to get the best cuts possible. I've been watching your videos but they continue to progress and it's hard to know what the latest and greatest is.
I built the Paulk WB II with 1/2” ply and can second that bench dogs don’t work as well with the 1/2” top. Bench dogs don’t have enough bite, super dogs go too deep so lower o-ring doesn’t bite, and as Ron mentioned the speed knobs don’t engage the bottom of the bench (I cut some scrap 1/2” pieces added the 20mm holes to act as a large washer to help that). My PARF Power-Locs seem to work. Edit: That said, I have no complaints about the strength of bench but I have not added any of the cradles for bench devices like the table saw or sander….The Sawstop might not fair well but who knows yet.
In case anyone thinks they can ignore the advice on stiffness in sawhorses.... 18mm is 3.4 times as stiff as 12. It is a huge difference. It is also more than twice as strong.
Great info Ron! After building the bench, the station and a scaled down bench out of 12mm for my 6-year old son, I agree that 18mm is best. There's really not much weight savings on the sides and spreaders, but you you'll save a bunch in the bottom if it's worth it to you.
Ron, I have been a subscriber since your early beginnings. I have bought all the SMART plans; and need for you to know that the time you have invested is VERY much appreciated. (It's also great to see how others in the "family" have personalized and modified your excellent designs.) The plans are GREAT, simple, informative, and easy to follow. Watching the videos do repetitive work can be time consuming; and the fast speed option is a blessing. Now, as age has "snuck up on us", being nearly 70 requires some lighter materials for easier handling. I'd very much like to request a SHORT video describing the PROS and CONS of a lighter bench using 12 mm for the torsion box portion, but maintaining the 18 mm material for the bench top AND most importantly for the saw horses. Keep up the good work and your passion for excellence!
I did that with my table. I used 3/4 for the top and 1/2 for the frame and bottom. Another change from the plan, which was suggested by RP, was that I used 18ga staples on the bottom, rather than screws, and it has held together really well.
Ron, thanks for even addressing this topic. I can see the value of maintaining 3/4" in the entire project. As you pointed out for the top and bottom, strength and flex. As for the sides, I dont believe it would be of significant value to switch to 1/2", as they are already small pieces, hollowed out, so they dont weigh much to begin with. The difference in weight between 3/4" and 1/2" would likely be negligible. Also, in having to buy a different dimension of sheet good would cause it's own hassles. Just stay standard on 3/4" and recommend that throughout for this project. Thats my professional opinion. Thanks for what you do.
i think ive read in the comments somewhere that in the species of Moreland UltraLight that he uses, that the 3/4" is lighter than 1/2"..? someone correct me on that if i'm off.
I built my Copact Bench using 12mm, all over. I don't use benchdogs so the thinner material doesn't cause a problem. It's much lighter. I predrilled for the screws and had very few issues..
I made the smaller Paulk bench with 12mm plywood. As others have noted the bench dogs don’t work as well but it does work fine as a clamping surface. To reinforce the sides and internal dividers I used 3/4” square poplar glue blocks on the edges and screwed the top and bottom into them. For the horses I use a heavy duty platforms from a Fine Woodworking design from a few years ago. I’m going to build a slightly smaller version soon, also from 12mm plywood.
Is 5/8" thickness plywood not available? I think that would be plenty strong enough and save a bit on weight and cost instead of going all the way down to 1/2".
Interesting video. I bought the plans for PTS & PWB II some time ago, and they were both based on 1/2” ply, except that the PTS used 3/4” for the sawhorses. So you’ve done it both ways. Variety is the spice of life! Really appreciate the videos. Hoping to see you doing some work outside the shop soon and putting the benches to work.
I built a shorter version out of quarter inch. I had to reinforce the corners with half inch strips and the bottom with a 2x2. I built it for jobsites and I move around alot so the weight was a big deal. Still in good shape. In the process of building a taller torsion table with 3/8.
I think testing with the 12mm would be interesting, Ron. Keeping the top, and legs to 18mm, but the rest with 12mm. I’d be curious about how much weight it actually saves and what strength is lost with it.
I made my PCB using a 3/4" top and the rest is 1/2". It's about three years old now and has held its own just fine. If you look carefully at the bottom, you can see it's beginning to show some flex spots on the bottom where the horses support it from underneath. But I'd still trust it enough to stand on top of it or place a piece of heavy equipment like the benchtop planer. You can definitely do this and reduce a bit of your overall bench weight.
Thanks Ron for the discussion and insight. I’ve built your Paulk Smart Station out of 18mm plywood and it is a beast weight wise. I sure wish I could get the Premcore Plus here in the St. Louis area. I would like to see a build of the Paulk Smart Bench using your hybrid approach as that is what I would consider doing now. I do want to build a second bench, but that weight is a concern.
Yrs. I would like to ser a smart bench made with 1/2 inch bottom and sides with 3/4 inch top. I am in my mid-70's with limited strength due to health issues. The decrease in weight is desirable. Just wondering if such a build is practical. Thank you for sharing all your wonderful plans with us.
Hay Ron yes please!!!!!!!, I was about to make a new bench from 12mm & 18mm top, so your guidance as always would be fantastic & very much appreciate, thanks for all your content 🙏👍 all the best to you ...James 🇬🇧
i also thought of doing the bare min out of 1/2" and make only the essential parts out of 3/4". but my question is, how would the accessories hold up if they were made out of 1/2" ie: the cradle for tablesaws/sander, router extensions, miter saw extentions, ect.?....
I can confirm 12mm for the structure works OK. MINE IS 12mm plywood bottom, 12mm sides, 19mm mdf top, 18mm plywood feet. Top has a rabbet and sides are dadoed and glued only. If you take your time for the glue-up and worked precisly everything will be fine.
If you do decide to try it using half inch instead of 3/4, I think it would be very helpful to Way the pieces individually and compare them to their three-quarter inch thick counterparts. That would help people understand the potential weight savings and where they might save the most weight with the least compromise.
These benches are an awesome design, Thanks for sharing. My question is .......Earlier bench was put together using pocket screws, why did you switch to screws through the surface?
I have a workbench with only the top being 18mm and the rest 12mm. Works great! But: I use a different set of horses. I can imagine that the 12mm bottom might flex too much, using the original horses.
Have you ever tried or recieved feedback anout using pocket screws in your bench construction? Would pocket screws work for attaching 12mm sides into top and bottom?
I have a source for free 12mm half inch plywood-topped pallets and soon after the Paulk workbench videos popped up on youtube I built a 3x4 bench using the same concepts but with the repurposed plywood and it's worked out well. Under it I made a more traditional cabinet case of the same plywood rather than saw horses and then set the bench on top of that. If you plan for the tool holes in the top you can always double-up and glue the 12mm plywood into 24mm. -- Ron, See if you can find some of those plywood topped pallets, they are everywhere as they come with shipments from China, and generally get disposed of after one or two uses (chipped, burned, or landfilled). A free wood source (in these current inflationary times) series of projects will be very popular on your channel. New plans to sell: Dismantle and build both smaller garage perimeter benches and the larger standard benches -- will need to work out 'grafting' 40x40 or 40x48 pallets into 4x8 'sheets', although that is only a problem on the tops, which you'd double and glue together anyway. Easiest way to dismantle: Use a punch to drive the nails through the top into the base blocks. Sawing 2.5 foot wide strips out of them with a circular saw and straight edge works too if using for other projects that don't need larger sizes.
The reduced weight of 1/2" ply on the bottom could be very important. In my area, I could not find the 18mm light-weight CanUSA Premcore Plus that Ron recommends, so I used another brand for my bench. As a result, the bench is so heavy it's a real issue to move around. So, a demo using 1/2" would be beneficial.
I’m about to build my ultimate mobile work station and I’m worried about weight, so I was wondering if 1/2” would be strong enough. Glad I watched this before I dove into the project. Looks like I’ll be using 3/4” and getting back to the gym lol
I’m new to your videos Ron and enjoying catching up on them. Just done a temporary MFT top to start with but would be interested in the smart bench build when I fit out my garage. Thanks for the ideas.
Check the weight of the 12 mm compared to 18mm. I shopped around and the 18mm that I'm using is almost the same weight of the 12mm. Some 18mm is pretty light weight.
The flex on the 12mm horses depends 100% on 2 factors, the overall size of the bench and the horses’ design. I’m using a 70x20 bench (a perfect fit for a short bed truck) and rectangular horses (the ones with the straps). The bench is made with 18mm, the horses with 12mm and milspec webbing, total supported weight is easily over 200 lbs. I can see however how 12” hinge or pivot horses could be problematic with a full sized 18mm bench.
One advantage to the thinner bench top is that it is a lot easier to run clamps in. Clamps fit fine in the 3/4" top, but they have to be more opened up to fit in there. So it is a little more awkward. And it gets worse when one is putting two layers together, or the clamp is closer to something that reduces access to the hole. So, whatever else there is to say, the 1/2" top has some advantage other than just weight and cost.
Ron said in another video that he is not a fan of MDF at all. I'm pretty sure he also said he doesn't use it for anything at all. It's messy and he uses sacrificial strips anyway.
I was thinking of 2 sheets 9mm ply, and not glued, 9mm ply top sheet is easily replaced. Using thin mahogany and pine for centre spreaders, then 1/2 or 1/4 for bottom of bench
I'm walking back my last answer. Looking at Home Depot (I know, not the best way to go), and the difference between 12mm and 18mm is $15. I'm also noticing that mixing ply with the PSB creates a nesting issue that could force a second sheet of 12mm. If that's the case you literally might pay more to do 12mm. Unless you see something I don't and have the plywood to burn, I don't want you to waste your money on my account. I think you already have the perfect bench.
Ron, didn't you design the workbenches for maximum use of a 4x8 sheet of plywood? How much waste would result in a mix match of sheet stock. I don't see any substantial cost or weight savings to be gained by mixing material thickness.
Between the pandemic and the skyrocketing energy prices due to the war in Europe, building material prices are out of this world. Local lumber yards don't stock hardly anything anymore. You have to special-order everything at top dollar. If I wanted to use CanUSA Premcore plywood like you described a year to two ago, I would have to seek out new supply channels. I'm writing all of this because I'm evaluating possible "work from home" (WFH) opportunities so I can generate enough revenue to build a new home-office setup with plenty of cabinets and drawers. This could be very daunting.
Ron!!! I know this goes against your grain to build JUST a miter saw station, but I def believe there is place and a demand for a solo miter saw station such as your original one. I’ve always fantasized (for lack of a better of saying it) building your original miter saw station. Could you please be open to building one? In a perfect world, you could have a company build and flat-pack ship that miter saw station for us to buy. I would be willing to pay significantly for that option. So if you have the time and are open to it, I would love to see a build video of you building the miter saw station. Dom
I have built several paulk style benches and used 3/4 for the sides and internals, and 1/2” for top and bottom. Only one has bench dog holes (the other 2 more like craft tables) and I don’t really use dogs anyway. Mostly f style clamps. I don’t think you would see any meaningful weight savings going to 1/2 on the frames. So maybe 3/4 top and frames, 1/2 bottom is the ideal mix.
I Multi use of a trailer for to other trades and recreation use equipment and bath kitchen bedroom technology utilities water power waste. The stealth component of van and trailer. And of course stealth security. Transfer from a home garage or miny storage by a single person. You have done a lot add animation for a set of plans. I have used a 24' refer box truck w tailgate and refer unit. Better brakes power cheaper mileage than pickup or van. Can be mobile office and sleeping . Savings is paid by employer. At end savings pays for vehicil
Is it ok to use 3/4” MDF for the top? I would like to have that machine flat. I bought all your plans. About to start building. You are generous guy. Thanks
What is the name of the company that makes the light plywood that you use in one of your videos on RUclips and do the company still sell them? Thank you 🙏🏾
PSB only: using 12mm REGULAR baltic birch ply instead of 18mm: Assuming that Sketchup calculates correctly and my weight infos are correct (12mm: 8,2kg/m² and 18mm: 12,2kg/m2) Top (1,51m²) 12mm: 12,38 kg vs. 18mm: 18,42kg = saving 6,04 kg Bottom (1,57m²) 12mm: 12,87 kg vs. 18mm: 19,15kg = saving 6,28 kg Sides (0,32m²) 12mm: 2,62 kg vs. 18mm: 3,90kg = saving 1,28 kg Spreaders (0,28m²) 12mm: 2,30 kg vs. 18mm: 3,42kg = saving 1,12kg Saw Horses (1,08m²) 12mm: 8,86 kg vs. 18mm: 13,18kg = saving 4,32kg Shelf (0,43m²) 12mm: 3,53 kg vs. 18mm: 5,25kg = saving 1,72 kg total weight 12mm: 42,56 kg total weight 18mm: 63,32 kg
If you worry about splitting, or have a particular plywood that is a nightmare, just place a clamp before you drill and screw. Use quickclamps that are easy to move along, and it won't slow you down much. Another alternative that is bomber is to use staples to fix the plywood and use epoxy and epoxy coves to adhere the plywood. This adds massive strength without much weight. ruclips.net/video/JEVrdtmC33I/видео.html
Thanks Ron...I was just thinking..hmmm..I have one 3/4 sheet of plywood in my garage and 3 sheets of 1/2....I wonder if I can build his bench with that...and here you are..
I made two benches with your plans 3/4 for home use and 1/2 inch for work. I like the weight of my half inch especially when loading and unloading at job sites. Both are about 10 years old and going strong. Thanks Ron.
I have built the compact bench a couple years ago and used 12mm (1/2in) ply for the bottom and interior spreaders. I have had NO ISSUES with strength and sturdiness. I made and am using the SMART workstation saw horses (because I like the material holders) and the bench with the thinner ply bottom works fine with the homemade horses. I do have a 3/4in top with the bench dog holes. I built this from plans for your previous series of benches.
I am even using your original pipe rail system for table saw support and with the thinner bottom and spreaders, have zero problem. Great design. Works very well.
Thanks for the good field report.
Please build one with 1/2", it would be great to see in action. Your videos and clever mind are always a pleasure to watch.
Nice explanation. Makes sense about the bench dogs. Thanks.
I would love to see a video of building the Smart Bench using 1/2” and 3/4”. I’m going to make mine soon and was considering this combo. Thanks!
My compact bench is fully made of 5/8”. I mostly use Festool clamps in the field with zero issues.
Ron, I've built 2 of the miter saw tables out of all 1/2" they work great and are nice and light weight. I did not do they holes for bench dogs, so thats not an issue for my use. I trim houses in KC, we trim a house every 2 weeks, so set up and break down is important. Love all your content! Thanks a bunch!
I've built my first PSB out of 18 mm plywood with phenolic coating. It's high grade plywood, it's dense, the bench is a rock, and weights this much as well. It fits perfectly in my workshop where I need to make room when I don't need it, but I can't see myself moving it around a lot.
For my my jobsite "dwarf" PSB, I went with 18mm for the top and 15 mm phenolic coated for everything else and it's great. I'm not sure how 12mm would fare but I'm really happy with15mm. The sawhorses are also made with 15mm plywood and they are doing great too.
I built the PSB according to plans, substituting the 18mm with 12mm birch ply (because I had sheets of 12mm left). I was initially worried about stability but it is very sturdy. Had a lot of fun building it too, great plans. 👍🏻
I’ve been wondering about the feasibility of building your bench(es) with 1/2” ply for some time. I would appreciate you demonstrating the pros and cons. Thanks for your videos.
I built my most recent with 1/2" sides and bottom but stuck with the 3/4" top. So far, it's my favorite. I also cut matchfit dovetail slots in the top so 3/4 is a requirement
Ron Paula, I am a contractor in Northern Michigan.
I subscribed to you a number of years ago. You Sir have mastered a number of things that I have always wanted to do. My hats off to you!!!
You Sir are spot on!!
Keep up the great work!!!
I appreciate your wisdom!!
Your friend in Northern Michigan.
Nothing like getting a guys name wrong as you compliment him.
ron - video request for you - I'd love to see an updated video of how you do each carpentry task with each of your latest benches/upgrades. How you break down a piece of plywood, how you cut a pattern, how you use a router table, how you cross cut a piece of plywood, how you use the miter saw, etc. Basically going through the latest and greatest of each thing you've created with tips and techniques that you use to get the best cuts possible. I've been watching your videos but they continue to progress and it's hard to know what the latest and greatest is.
Great video. I've been thinking about this & building another psb in half inch. I think I will & build it as described. Thanks Ron
I built the Paulk WB II with 1/2” ply and can second that bench dogs don’t work as well with the 1/2” top. Bench dogs don’t have enough bite, super dogs go too deep so lower o-ring doesn’t bite, and as Ron mentioned the speed knobs don’t engage the bottom of the bench (I cut some scrap 1/2” pieces added the 20mm holes to act as a large washer to help that). My PARF Power-Locs seem to work.
Edit: That said, I have no complaints about the strength of bench but I have not added any of the cradles for bench devices like the table saw or sander….The Sawstop might not fair well but who knows yet.
In case anyone thinks they can ignore the advice on stiffness in sawhorses.... 18mm is 3.4 times as stiff as 12. It is a huge difference. It is also more than twice as strong.
Great info Ron! After building the bench, the station and a scaled down bench out of 12mm for my 6-year old son, I agree that 18mm is best. There's really not much weight savings on the sides and spreaders, but you you'll save a bunch in the bottom if it's worth it to you.
Ron, I have been a subscriber since your early beginnings. I have bought all the SMART plans; and need for you to know that the time you have invested is VERY much appreciated. (It's also great to see how others in the "family" have personalized and modified your excellent designs.)
The plans are GREAT, simple, informative, and easy to follow.
Watching the videos do repetitive work can be time consuming; and the fast speed option is a blessing. Now, as age has "snuck up on us", being nearly 70 requires some lighter materials for easier handling.
I'd very much like to request a SHORT video describing the PROS and CONS of a lighter bench using 12 mm for the torsion box portion, but maintaining the 18 mm material for the bench top AND most importantly for the saw horses. Keep up the good work and your passion for excellence!
If I live long enough for plywood prices to become normalized I will actually get to put your plans to use. Keep 'em coming Ron.
Hi Ron, please make a video for the bench of combination of 12, 18mm. I'm very keen!
Stumbled on you videos while researching a project. I'm sold on your system. Ordered the plans and am looking forward to building some of them.
I did that with my table. I used 3/4 for the top and 1/2 for the frame and bottom. Another change from the plan, which was suggested by RP, was that I used 18ga staples on the bottom, rather than screws, and it has held together really well.
Answer is yes. Just needs some reinforcement at the edges and its solid
Thank you, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out this exact question.
Ron, thanks for even addressing this topic. I can see the value of maintaining 3/4" in the entire project. As you pointed out for the top and bottom, strength and flex. As for the sides, I dont believe it would be of significant value to switch to 1/2", as they are already small pieces, hollowed out, so they dont weigh much to begin with. The difference in weight between 3/4" and 1/2" would likely be negligible. Also, in having to buy a different dimension of sheet good would cause it's own hassles.
Just stay standard on 3/4" and recommend that throughout for this project. Thats my professional opinion. Thanks for what you do.
i think ive read in the comments somewhere that in the species of Moreland UltraLight that he uses, that the 3/4" is lighter than 1/2"..? someone correct me on that if i'm off.
What are your thoughts about 5/8" or 15mm ply? Could be a happy medium.
Thank you. Im considering the 18mm and 1/2" hybrid.
I built my Copact Bench using 12mm, all over. I don't use benchdogs so the thinner material doesn't cause a problem. It's much lighter. I predrilled for the screws and had very few issues..
Would love to see construction of the mixed dimension bench.
I made the smaller Paulk bench with 12mm plywood. As others have noted the bench dogs don’t work as well but it does work fine as a clamping surface. To reinforce the sides and internal dividers I used 3/4” square poplar glue blocks on the edges and screwed the top and bottom into them. For the horses I use a heavy duty platforms from a Fine Woodworking design from a few years ago. I’m going to build a slightly smaller version soon, also from 12mm plywood.
Is 5/8" thickness plywood not available? I think that would be plenty strong enough and save a bit on weight and cost instead of going all the way down to 1/2".
Interesting video. I bought the plans for PTS & PWB II some time ago, and they were both based on 1/2” ply, except that the PTS used 3/4” for the sawhorses. So you’ve done it both ways. Variety is the spice of life! Really appreciate the videos. Hoping to see you doing some work outside the shop soon and putting the benches to work.
I built a shorter version out of quarter inch. I had to reinforce the corners with half inch strips and the bottom with a 2x2. I built it for jobsites and I move around alot so the weight was a big deal. Still in good shape. In the process of building a taller torsion table with 3/8.
Yeah, i would really like to see dome benches made with 12mm. That would be great.
I think testing with the 12mm would be interesting, Ron. Keeping the top, and legs to 18mm, but the rest with 12mm. I’d be curious about how much weight it actually saves and what strength is lost with it.
I made my PCB using a 3/4" top and the rest is 1/2". It's about three years old now and has held its own just fine. If you look carefully at the bottom, you can see it's beginning to show some flex spots on the bottom where the horses support it from underneath. But I'd still trust it enough to stand on top of it or place a piece of heavy equipment like the benchtop planer. You can definitely do this and reduce a bit of your overall bench weight.
Always great advice Ron . Look forward to seeing your new content when I see your notifications.
Thanks Ron for the discussion and insight. I’ve built your Paulk Smart Station out of 18mm plywood and it is a beast weight wise. I sure wish I could get the Premcore Plus here in the St. Louis area. I would like to see a build of the Paulk Smart Bench using your hybrid approach as that is what I would consider doing now. I do want to build a second bench, but that weight is a concern.
I would like to see Ron build a modified bench combining the 1/2" and 3/4" plywood. Thank you.
Yrs. I would like to ser a smart bench made with 1/2 inch bottom and sides with 3/4 inch top. I am in my mid-70's with limited strength due to health issues. The decrease in weight is desirable. Just wondering if such a build is practical. Thank you for sharing all your wonderful plans with us.
great video on plywood strength comparisons.
Hay Ron yes please!!!!!!!, I was about to make a new bench from 12mm & 18mm top, so your guidance as always would be fantastic & very much appreciate, thanks for all your content 🙏👍 all the best to you ...James 🇬🇧
i also thought of doing the bare min out of 1/2" and make only the essential parts out of 3/4". but my question is, how would the accessories hold up if they were made out of 1/2" ie: the cradle for tablesaws/sander, router extensions, miter saw extentions, ect.?....
This is the question I want answered.
The accessories will not work well using 12mm. Remember the all need to be the same thickness to work together, plus they are not heavy as designed.😎🤙
I can confirm 12mm for the structure works OK. MINE IS 12mm plywood bottom, 12mm sides, 19mm mdf top, 18mm plywood feet. Top has a rabbet and sides are dadoed and glued only. If you take your time for the glue-up and worked precisly everything will be fine.
If you do decide to try it using half inch instead of 3/4, I think it would be very helpful to Way the pieces individually and compare them to their three-quarter inch thick counterparts. That would help people understand the potential weight savings and where they might save the most weight with the least compromise.
These benches are an awesome design, Thanks for sharing. My question is .......Earlier bench was put together using pocket screws, why did you switch to screws through the surface?
I have a workbench with only the top being 18mm and the rest 12mm. Works great! But: I use a different set of horses. I can imagine that the 12mm bottom might flex too much, using the original horses.
Hey Ron, could you do a video explaining all the major ways you can use bench dogs? Unfortunately I just built my big bench out of 1/2.
Have you ever tried or recieved feedback anout using pocket screws in your bench construction? Would pocket screws work for attaching 12mm sides into top and bottom?
I did mine all out of 1/2” and added 1/4” strips under all the dog hole positions. The lighter bench doesn’t flex the 1/2” legs.
If you start putting a table saw on it, some material, tools, etc might become a problem, the bench won't be usable as intended with 1/2...
@@MrTresto it needs 3/4 for the bench dogs so it’s better to just go 3/4. I now know
Such an interesting design. Thanks for your ingenuity.
I have a source for free 12mm half inch plywood-topped pallets and soon after the Paulk workbench videos popped up on youtube I built a 3x4 bench using the same concepts but with the repurposed plywood and it's worked out well. Under it I made a more traditional cabinet case of the same plywood rather than saw horses and then set the bench on top of that. If you plan for the tool holes in the top you can always double-up and glue the 12mm plywood into 24mm. -- Ron, See if you can find some of those plywood topped pallets, they are everywhere as they come with shipments from China, and generally get disposed of after one or two uses (chipped, burned, or landfilled). A free wood source (in these current inflationary times) series of projects will be very popular on your channel. New plans to sell: Dismantle and build both smaller garage perimeter benches and the larger standard benches -- will need to work out 'grafting' 40x40 or 40x48 pallets into 4x8 'sheets', although that is only a problem on the tops, which you'd double and glue together anyway. Easiest way to dismantle: Use a punch to drive the nails through the top into the base blocks. Sawing 2.5 foot wide strips out of them with a circular saw and straight edge works too if using for other projects that don't need larger sizes.
The reduced weight of 1/2" ply on the bottom could be very important. In my area, I could not find the 18mm light-weight CanUSA Premcore Plus that Ron recommends, so I used another brand for my bench. As a result, the bench is so heavy it's a real issue to move around. So, a demo using 1/2" would be beneficial.
I’m about to build my ultimate mobile work station and I’m worried about weight, so I was wondering if 1/2” would be strong enough. Glad I watched this before I dove into the project. Looks like I’ll be using 3/4” and getting back to the gym lol
I’m new to your videos Ron and enjoying catching up on them. Just done a temporary MFT top to start with but would be interested in the smart bench build when I fit out my garage. Thanks for the ideas.
Amazing design. Wonderful job
Check the weight of the 12 mm compared to 18mm. I shopped around and the 18mm that I'm using is almost the same weight of the 12mm. Some 18mm is pretty light weight.
The flex on the 12mm horses depends 100% on 2 factors, the overall size of the bench and the horses’ design. I’m using a 70x20 bench (a perfect fit for a short bed truck) and rectangular horses (the ones with the straps). The bench is made with 18mm, the horses with 12mm and milspec webbing, total supported weight is easily over 200 lbs. I can see however how 12” hinge or pivot horses could be problematic with a full sized 18mm bench.
One advantage to the thinner bench top is that it is a lot easier to run clamps in. Clamps fit fine in the 3/4" top, but they have to be more opened up to fit in there. So it is a little more awkward. And it gets worse when one is putting two layers together, or the clamp is closer to something that reduces access to the hole. So, whatever else there is to say, the 1/2" top has some advantage other than just weight and cost.
Hi Ron have you experimented in using an mdf top instead of ply?
I don’t want to speak for Ron, but I know he is all about the bench being lightweight and portable.
Ron said in another video that he is not a fan of MDF at all. I'm pretty sure he also said he doesn't use it for anything at all. It's messy and he uses sacrificial strips anyway.
I was thinking of 2 sheets 9mm ply, and not glued, 9mm ply top sheet is easily replaced. Using thin mahogany and pine for centre spreaders, then 1/2 or 1/4 for bottom of bench
Ron, have you considered using Kreg's micro pocket screw jig with #7 pocket screws for attaching the 1/2-inch plywood?
Like you videos. I will make one out of some 19 mm ultra light plywood I have from Brazil.
I'm walking back my last answer. Looking at Home Depot (I know, not the best way to go), and the difference between 12mm and 18mm is $15. I'm also noticing that mixing ply with the PSB creates a nesting issue that could force a second sheet of 12mm. If that's the case you literally might pay more to do 12mm. Unless you see something I don't and have the plywood to burn, I don't want you to waste your money on my account. I think you already have the perfect bench.
Yes Ron, please make a bench out of 12mm, with a 18mm top.
Ron, didn't you design the workbenches for maximum use of a 4x8 sheet of plywood? How much waste would result in a mix match of sheet stock. I don't see any substantial cost or weight savings to be gained by mixing material thickness.
I recall you using some lightweight plywood in the past. How has that held up?
Worth a try for us to know. It would be lighter without compromising strength.
😎
Between the pandemic and the skyrocketing energy prices due to the war in Europe, building material prices are out of this world. Local lumber yards don't stock hardly anything anymore. You have to special-order everything at top dollar. If I wanted to use CanUSA Premcore plywood like you described a year to two ago, I would have to seek out new supply channels. I'm writing all of this because I'm evaluating possible "work from home" (WFH) opportunities so I can generate enough revenue to build a new home-office setup with plenty of cabinets and drawers. This could be very daunting.
Ron!!! I know this goes against your grain to build JUST a miter saw station, but I def believe there is place and a demand for a solo miter saw station such as your original one. I’ve always fantasized (for lack of a better of saying it) building your original miter saw station. Could you please be open to building one? In a perfect world, you could have a company build and flat-pack ship that miter saw station for us to buy. I would be willing to pay significantly for that option. So if you have the time and are open to it, I would love to see a build video of you building the miter saw station.
Dom
I have built several paulk style benches and used 3/4 for the sides and internals, and 1/2” for top and bottom. Only one has bench dog holes (the other 2 more like craft tables) and I don’t really use dogs anyway. Mostly f style clamps. I don’t think you would see any meaningful weight savings going to 1/2 on the frames. So maybe 3/4 top and frames, 1/2 bottom is the ideal mix.
It would be good to see how light it could get while still being useful
Thanks, been wonder about 1/2” (12 mm) in the design. I wonder if the type of plywood (thinking balsa, for example) would be another optimization?
Great vid. More stabila rbeam please
HEY PAUL I WOULD LOVE TO SEE THIS IN 1/2 IN PLY IM 62 ANDNOT AS STRON AS I USED TO BE SO WEIGHT IS A BIG DEAL !......THANKS
I feel you
Yes, you can double-layer the 1/2" plywood and get a 1" layer instead! 😉
I've been trying to get the rolling tool trailer but haven't been able...can u point me in the right direction pls
I
Multi use of a trailer for to other trades and recreation use equipment and bath kitchen bedroom technology utilities water power waste. The stealth component of van and trailer. And of course stealth security. Transfer from a home garage or miny storage by a single person. You have done a lot add animation for a set of plans. I have used a 24' refer box truck w tailgate and refer unit. Better brakes power cheaper mileage than pickup or van. Can be mobile office and sleeping . Savings is paid by employer. At end savings pays for vehicil
Going back several years to when he created the design the first version was 1/2". About 3 years ago.
Is it ok to use 3/4” MDF for the top? I would like to have that machine flat. I bought all your plans. About to start building. You are generous guy. Thanks
For me, no. MDF is heavy and fragile. I like wood.
Ron, I think a hybrid 12mm/18mm bench would be the bee's knees.
What is the name of the company that makes the light plywood that you use in one of your videos on RUclips and do the company still sell them?
Thank you 🙏🏾
PSB only: using 12mm REGULAR baltic birch ply instead of 18mm:
Assuming that Sketchup calculates correctly and my weight infos are correct (12mm: 8,2kg/m² and 18mm: 12,2kg/m2)
Top (1,51m²) 12mm: 12,38 kg vs. 18mm: 18,42kg = saving 6,04 kg
Bottom (1,57m²) 12mm: 12,87 kg vs. 18mm: 19,15kg = saving 6,28 kg
Sides (0,32m²) 12mm: 2,62 kg vs. 18mm: 3,90kg = saving 1,28 kg
Spreaders (0,28m²) 12mm: 2,30 kg vs. 18mm: 3,42kg = saving 1,12kg
Saw Horses (1,08m²) 12mm: 8,86 kg vs. 18mm: 13,18kg = saving 4,32kg
Shelf (0,43m²) 12mm: 3,53 kg vs. 18mm: 5,25kg = saving 1,72 kg
total weight 12mm: 42,56 kg
total weight 18mm: 63,32 kg
I would lie to see a 12mm hybrid bench, mainly for the weight differance.
If you worry about splitting, or have a particular plywood that is a nightmare, just place a clamp before you drill and screw. Use quickclamps that are easy to move along, and it won't slow you down much.
Another alternative that is bomber is to use staples to fix the plywood and use epoxy and epoxy coves to adhere the plywood. This adds massive strength without much weight.
ruclips.net/video/JEVrdtmC33I/видео.html
The kart could also be 1/2” ?
I haven't test it with 12mm ply. I wouldn't do the sides, maybe the bottom.
How much weight savings are we talking about -10-15 lbs?
I am probably the only person that may ask this but what brand of pants are you wearing here. They look like a cargo pant.
Kohl😎
Yes, I'd like to see you build a bench incorporating 12mm plywood.
I'm more wondering about making the whole piece out of 15 mm birch plywood.
Add glue blocks to strengthen. Build a bench with cheapest material you can get? For say 30 dollars
Why do your plans say to use 12mm when you don't suggest it..?
Cool