First...great job Greg. Artisan level work! I had 1 issue. IMPORTANT: NOT ALL TYPE S MORTAR IS CREATED EQUAL. IF YOU HAD TROUBLE GETTING YOUR MORTAR TO FEED OUT OF THE GROUT BAG - CONTINUE READING When I started my project, I had a QUIKRETE TYPE S mortar - 80 lb bag. I bought it because I figured Type S mortar is Type S mortar. It is not. I've done quite a bit of tile work and mixed the mortar to a consistency that I thought should work. This however, was my first grout bag attempt. Total failure. I tried 20 different methodologies trying to get the "grout" to feed out of the bag. I'd get 1 to 6 feet of grout out and then the entire contents would turn to the consistency of wet sand and there was no way to get the feed going again. I literally worked for 4 hours and got maybe 30' of mortar done. All my time was being spent emptying the bag, cleaning it and restarting the process. Tried different levels of wetness - all for naught. The issue when this happens, is too much sand in the mortar mix. I switched to Spec Mix Type S mortar - THIS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE. After the switch, the mortar fed out of the grout bag just like all the videos I'd seen online. I hope this helps someone.
Great information Dale! Thanks for taking the time to share. I'm going to pin this comment to the top... I hope this doesn't sound like it's coming from a "high horse" perspective, but this is why I recommend using a masonry supplier for your entire project. Those guys live this stuff every day and they will put the right product in your hands. They also would never be caught dead with QuikCrete on the floor of their show room... All type S has to meet a strength requirement, but you are correct; it's NOT all the same. I hate that you had to go through the pain of finding that out, but I'm happy you shared your experience. That's what my channel is all about - helping the next guy do it better. Cheers!!!
@@GregsGarage Happy New Year Greg! No, your response does NOT sound "high horse" - it sounds like the voice of experience. Honestly, I didn't know there was such a thing as a masonry supplier. I've had to use electrical and plumbing supply houses on previous projects so it makes sense - I just never thought of it. I have another question, but will post it separately so as to not detract from this thread.
Thanks Dale and Greg. I am ramping up to do a project like this, and my only concern was the consistency of the mortar, and the specific type. I do have another question that I get mixed answers to... Greg applied a primer to his wall, and some folks tell me I need to clad the wall in concrete backer boards like the material used behind tile in a shower. I would rather prime the wall (cheaper and faster). What do you guys suggest for this application?
@@matthewpeterson3329 A great question. I don't know why, but I'm pre-disposed to not apply tile/brick veneers, etc to sheetrock. I guess because I grew up with brothers and we routinely did stupid stuff that I feel like would damage the underlying wall. So I can't really answer your question other than to say that I used the cheapest backer board I could find...in my case it was 4'x8' Hardie siding...which isn't cheap. One more thought...if you ever decide to hang anything on the wall you're remodeling...you may want something extra to help hold the load. Good luck on your project!
@@daleedwards7940 Thank you Dale. Excellent advise. Your comment about having brothers reminded me of an incident about 50 years ago, when a poorly executed back flip, while I was jumping on my bed, yielded a face plant and two knee-sized holes in the drywall above my pillow. Mom was not happy.
I am about to brick the major wall in my home office with General Shale English Pub thin brick. Thanks for the video. The use of English Pub in the video made my mind up that this was the color I wanted in my office. My wall will be a simple stack pattern but the look should be stunning. Thanks for the inspiration.
As a crafter who is fussier than the average person, I admire your attention to detail. I appreciated your remark about laying out the bricks first so you don’t get an irritating colour clump or distracting line of color that detracts from the look of the design.
Really well-done: the project and the instruction! It is beautiful! I am inspired. One comment, which I hope everyone will take in the spirit I intend-to keep each of you healthy-be aware that these products: the brick, tile, and the grout, all contain silica-yep, just like sand at the sea-shore-but when in very fine particles, inhaled, it causes lung damage, which can become serious, and even fatal, over time. In a ceramics studio, the silica in clay is worked wet, so that as with the mixed grout here, it is quite safe. In a well-run studio, all of the clean-up is done wet, so that there isn’t silica dust in the air. Any time it is dry, though, for example, when cutting brick or tile, or mixing dry grout, simply wearing a well-fitting HEPA filter mask can prevent lung damage. These are inexpensive-as low as $35. You can order one on line, or in a city of any size, find an outlet for contractors, which sells safety equipment. 3M manufactures them, and now makes ones better fitting for women too (which I appreciate.) I have also bought one from another manufacturer-the name escapes me. Look for ANSI certification. The mask should fit snugly, so no air can escape around the edges. Again, great video-I’m inspired to do something like this at home, having far more time than money! Thanks for posting this.
Your work on this project transcends craft to become art. I'm very impressed. My dad and I used Z Brick on several projects all the way from the early 70s until recently. The quality and craftsmanship of the materials have improved a lot since then. That double basket weave is impressive and has inspired me to give it a try. Thanks for taking the time to do this video, and let me say again, NICE JOB!
Great job! However, I would not recommend this adhesive in the future. It sags considerably, which means you must have enough wooden spacers for the entire wall. It also has a 2 - 7 day drying time. I would recommend Loctite Power Grab Ultimate, which sticks immediately, allowing you to remove the wooden spacers. It also dries in about 24 hrs, allowing you to mortar more quickly.
@@garrettp.5018 the problem I've heard is that it is not sticky enough; the "tiles" slide down the wall, jamming your spacers. I'm not even sure it will adhere to brick. Then when you try to pull the spacers, you run the risk of pulling off your bricks. If you use rope, the bricks will crush the rope and end up creating spaces that are smaller than the actual diameter of the rope. I have heard of people using mastic, which is stickier, but it smells horrible, and is also harder to find. I would put out little extra money and use the Loctite Powergrab Ultimate. Use a caulk gun and "butter back" the bricks. Make sure it's a rough surface, or at the very least primed with a quality primer.
Awesome job! I’m amazed how quickly the adhesive cured and you were able to remove the spacers. Only thing I would have done differently was to use an actual mason brush. Think that would’ve been more effective for you when finishing the striking.
Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing this, made this project so much easier than it would have been otherwise. Before I watched this, I was going to approach it like I was doing tile, but this is much different. Very helpful.
Thanks John. I'd be lying if I didn't admit that I designed it to look convincing on camera... Its the details at the corners and breaking down the scale that sells whether or not it looks authentic. We use thin brick on big buildings all the time and if you don't nail the details it looks like a big sheet of laser printed paper stuck to a box.
Very informative video...I am going to be selling thin brick for my friend's company and wanted to learn abt it so this video was very helpful. Thank you!
Can you please direct all diy videos. This should be the template of how to make a video. Great info, Perfect camera angles, no 10 minute fluff about how this Brick reminds You of your grandmas cottage. I loved it and learned a lot. Thank you!
I’ve watched so many installing videos for thin brick and/or veneer brick. No one else used or uses a glue compound for adhering the bricks to drywall. I’m following your lead, hope it works.
Follow up on this, the set time was too long for me. I was using regular tile spacers on non-uniform shaped thin brick. Which caused the bricks to not fit properly with the spacers and they were sliding down the wall. Ended up buying dowels and switched over to liquid nails extreme. Can I post a picture on here? Don’t know how.
This is just what I needed for my project, thank you so much for the tutorial. You are a true artist and craftsman. By the way, the “right way to do it” is whatever way that works, and you got the job done beautifully.
This project is AMAZING! Such beautiful finished walls! Thanks for the informative tutorial. We’ll be starting our wall project in a week or two. Fingers crossed!🤞🏻
Greg, the end result of your thin brick wall project is epic. The mortar prep and application tips were excellent. I would have tried to finish the tuck pointing way too early and ruined the brick.
I’m always curious about the kind of people who downvote this kind of video. This guy is experienced enough to make the job look professional, and explained everything so that a diy-er could replicate, and did it as a project someone could do in a weekend or two. Sure, he could have spent hours more to make every cut with a saw, but it would have taken way more time
thank you so much for the tutorial! I am about to do a brick veneer project on one of my walls. Been skeptical to start (you know the heebie jeebies you get when you're about to start something and the reluctance LOL) But I'm gonna watch your video several times and get that confidence :) Tho I am only going to do the straightforward pattern, I LOVE the patterns you created. I also wanted the brick to be further apart, to see more mortar, and was thinking what was the best thing to use as spacers. Now I know :) Thank you once again!!
Great work 👏 👍 👌 I have a question. Can I use this thin bricks as outside siding without exposing the house to extreme heat or cold, snow and rain, and high humidity and moisture as I live in Toledo, OH where I think we have the worst weather. Also can use cement to glue the bricks. Thank you
Thank you! Thank you!!! Thank you!! Wonderful job both showing AND explaining what you did. A labor of love. I have several places where I will do this. Master bedroom #1. Also think I'll dress up our shop too. A little extravagance goes a long way. Great job Greg.
You're quite welcome. It will take you a fair amount of time to set all the brick, but it's not hard work by any means... Just take your time and get the joints even and level. Good luck!
Looks awesome. For those looking to cut costs, if you can acquire a bunch of regular bricks, you can use a paver saw and cut the bricks lengthwise into 1/2 inch or so thin bricks. It must be a brick or paver saw, because the brick must clear the top of the saw. They can be rented. I went on Craigslist and in the community looking for free bricks. It also allows you to use some variety. You might get lucky and find some stamped bricks!
Great video! I’m a GC, and have been in between masons. Have a small project to get done ASAP, and though I didn’t really want to do it myself, this is making me rethink that.
That looks amazing. I love it. I'm going to be doing my first simple brick veneer project in the next couple weeks and this has made me wish I aimed a bit bigger. Nice work!
this. is. awesome. i was so inspired i pretty much decided to copy, borrow, steal, replicate your entire process (though on a much smaller scale). i only have a pilaster...but the english pub...great stuff. one thing thing....using the Loctite Subfloor...you make it looks easy....finding that it takes a few hours to fully set up. dont know how you didnt go bananas waiting for it to dry. but beautiful work!
Yeah, they have a "quick grab" adhesive, but it still needs to set up. I had a system where I'd lay up 5-6 courses every night. On the weekends I'd lay up bricks in the morning and then again in the evening. I'm glad you were able to steal a few details!!! Brick is all about the patterns, bumps and edges.
@@GregsGarage you are my hero for responding. and for confirming that im not crazy. i started yesterday and it kept sliding. i cut 7/16s spacers which helped. then a couple hours later...bricks still had some give. so i woke up this morning with the plan to lay two or 3 levels every 4 or 5 hours. based on your process...im on the right track. and yes...love the bumps and edges. tile saw was giving me lines that were too clean. needed to take the hammer to the edges to rough them up...based on your work....thx again.
Me too! That wasn't a complete mistake. :D. Full disclosure... There is fire rated gyp board behind it, so its a belt and suspenders situation. The entire garage is rated for fire rated goodness.
Man that came out nice now i know why i have so much work watching videos like this just give me so many ideas to do lol thanks man love your passion and your work
Great video about this process. I'm about to use the same process to lay thin brick behind a wood stove to make a fireplace appearance. This has some good tips I hadn't considered and I'm getting the grout bag and joint tool from your amazon links :P I'll be cutting my own thin bricks from whole salvaged bricks with a wet saw. I've cut brick with a dry diamond blade and that is super messy!! I hope you wore some PPE.
Good luck Charles... And yes, I had a full respirator on. I also had a dust mitigation system running the entire time. I would have preferred a wet saw for sure, but I didn't have one available, so I used the dry saw.
Thank you for the video! Very informative. I am getting ready to install a brick veneer on a drywall wall that's 17'x8'. And I have gone back and forth a million times on how I'm going to approach the install. Manufacturer suggests moisture barrier, metal lathe, lots of mortar, and then the brick. I like your approach much better though. Any regrets on using the loctite? I'd use loctite power grab general purpose. Any thoughts?
Question about overhead grout/mortar joints - do you have any pro-tips for how to get mortar to stick into an overhead joint? Mixing it drier sounds logical, or perhaps an additive? Just thought I'd ask before spending a lot of time experimenting. Thanks Greg!
You nailed it... You can mix it like normal, then let it sit a bit to stiffen up. It's going to be a challenge to get it in the joint but it shouldn't just fall out if you put it in with a little pressure. I don't know of any additives to help it stick while its wet.
You'd have to ask your supplier. I'm not sure what primers provide the best adhesion to plaster... The PVA primer works well on the paper face, which is COMPLETELY different than a cement plaster. They may actually suggest a thin set since you're substrate is porous.
You really created a nice atmosphere for your shop with the masonry work. I’m a big fan of the natural stone veneers for accent walls but grouting them can be a huge pain too.
I'm going to do this to a room in my house off your tutorial! Question... If there is a little drywall damage behind it will there be adhesion issues? There was an ugly (pink) tile accent half way up the wall that I want to pull off. Inevitably there will be some minor damage from pulling it off.... suggestions here or can I adhere over it and then just mortar in without worry?
This was the supplier's recommendation for an indoor application. The manufacturer also recommends this method for installation indoors. If you are installing the veneer outside, it needs to be handled with a completely different set of details similar to a traditional stone veneer application.
Great Job! , I want to do the same on the walls around a wood stove. Is it ok to use this same adhesive Loctite PL400 or do I need a different one for heat resistant?
Question, I’m doing bbq island and using the polymer mortar specifically for thin brick, like $15 bag, works well , question is for the grout lines should I use the same or just get some pre mix S type ?
You’re exactly right! I’m a Mason also and was impressed with his work. Especially with him using the grout bag, most of seen try to use a tuck pointer. And for all those that think the grout bag looks Easy, it is.... but those forearms will be worn out after that entire wall. lol I’ve never seen a square that small either. I’ve Always just thrown another brick over my cut piece to line it up.
I'm a mason, and my concern would be longevity of this over time. I'd much rather put up cement board and use a thinset mortar on an application like this.
james franks You’re right, it’s likely they will come loose and fall off over time. Hardy backer board works really good and I’ve had good luck with Mastic holding them secure.
First...great job Greg. Artisan level work! I had 1 issue.
IMPORTANT: NOT ALL TYPE S MORTAR IS CREATED EQUAL. IF YOU HAD TROUBLE GETTING YOUR MORTAR TO FEED OUT OF THE GROUT BAG - CONTINUE READING
When I started my project, I had a QUIKRETE TYPE S mortar - 80 lb bag. I bought it because I figured Type S mortar is Type S mortar. It is not. I've done quite a bit of tile work and mixed the mortar to a consistency that I thought should work. This however, was my first grout bag attempt. Total failure. I tried 20 different methodologies trying to get the "grout" to feed out of the bag. I'd get 1 to 6 feet of grout out and then the entire contents would turn to the consistency of wet sand and there was no way to get the feed going again. I literally worked for 4 hours and got maybe 30' of mortar done. All my time was being spent emptying the bag, cleaning it and restarting the process. Tried different levels of wetness - all for naught. The issue when this happens, is too much sand in the mortar mix.
I switched to Spec Mix Type S mortar - THIS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE. After the switch, the mortar fed out of the grout bag just like all the videos I'd seen online. I hope this helps someone.
Great information Dale! Thanks for taking the time to share. I'm going to pin this comment to the top... I hope this doesn't sound like it's coming from a "high horse" perspective, but this is why I recommend using a masonry supplier for your entire project. Those guys live this stuff every day and they will put the right product in your hands. They also would never be caught dead with QuikCrete on the floor of their show room... All type S has to meet a strength requirement, but you are correct; it's NOT all the same. I hate that you had to go through the pain of finding that out, but I'm happy you shared your experience. That's what my channel is all about - helping the next guy do it better. Cheers!!!
@@GregsGarage Happy New Year Greg! No, your response does NOT sound "high horse" - it sounds like the voice of experience. Honestly, I didn't know there was such a thing as a masonry supplier. I've had to use electrical and plumbing supply houses on previous projects so it makes sense - I just never thought of it. I have another question, but will post it separately so as to not detract from this thread.
Thanks Dale and Greg. I am ramping up to do a project like this, and my only concern was the consistency of the mortar, and the specific type. I do have another question that I get mixed answers to... Greg applied a primer to his wall, and some folks tell me I need to clad the wall in concrete backer boards like the material used behind tile in a shower. I would rather prime the wall (cheaper and faster). What do you guys suggest for this application?
@@matthewpeterson3329 A great question. I don't know why, but I'm pre-disposed to not apply tile/brick veneers, etc to sheetrock. I guess because I grew up with brothers and we routinely did stupid stuff that I feel like would damage the underlying wall. So I can't really answer your question other than to say that I used the cheapest backer board I could find...in my case it was 4'x8' Hardie siding...which isn't cheap. One more thought...if you ever decide to hang anything on the wall you're remodeling...you may want something extra to help hold the load. Good luck on your project!
@@daleedwards7940 Thank you Dale. Excellent advise. Your comment about having brothers reminded me of an incident about 50 years ago, when a poorly executed back flip, while I was jumping on my bed, yielded a face plant and two knee-sized holes in the drywall above my pillow. Mom was not happy.
I am about to brick the major wall in my home office with General Shale English Pub thin brick. Thanks for the video. The use of English Pub in the video made my mind up that this was the color I wanted in my office. My wall will be a simple stack pattern but the look should be stunning. Thanks for the inspiration.
As a crafter who is fussier than the average person, I admire your attention to detail. I appreciated your remark about laying out the bricks first so you don’t get an irritating colour clump or distracting line of color that detracts from the look of the design.
Really well-done: the project and the instruction! It is beautiful! I am inspired.
One comment, which I hope everyone will take in the spirit I intend-to keep each of you healthy-be aware that these products: the brick, tile, and the grout, all contain silica-yep, just like sand at the sea-shore-but when in very fine particles, inhaled, it causes lung damage, which can become serious, and even fatal, over time.
In a ceramics studio, the silica in clay is worked wet, so that as with the mixed grout here, it is quite safe. In a well-run studio, all of the clean-up is done wet, so that there isn’t silica dust in the air.
Any time it is dry, though, for example, when cutting brick or tile, or mixing dry grout, simply wearing a well-fitting HEPA filter mask can prevent lung damage. These are inexpensive-as low as $35. You can order one on line, or in a city of any size, find an outlet for contractors, which sells safety equipment. 3M manufactures them, and now makes ones better fitting for women too (which I appreciate.) I have also bought one from another manufacturer-the name escapes me. Look for ANSI certification. The mask should fit snugly, so no air can escape around the edges.
Again, great video-I’m inspired to do something like this at home, having far more time than money! Thanks for posting this.
Holy moley! I love your styling details! Well done!
Thank you. Brick has a lot of subtle details. Planning it all out is the key to a composition that will look good for a long time!
The most detailed thin brick video I've found. I needed this info for a future project of my own. Thanks a ton, and nice work!
Looks fantastic. Thank you for sharing your video and information. God bless 🙏
Your work on this project transcends craft to become art. I'm very impressed. My dad and I used Z Brick on several projects all the way from the early 70s until recently. The quality and craftsmanship of the materials have improved a lot since then. That double basket weave is impressive and has inspired me to give it a try. Thanks for taking the time to do this video, and let me say again, NICE JOB!
This is the first time I've seen face bricks adhered directly to a wall. Usually a wire mesh ..... This came out gorgious.
Looks awesome! Hmmm...I love the classic brick look.
Absolutely superb sir, a magnificent effect and precise job. You have my utmost admiration.
This looks amazing, explanations were simple, and your demonstrations were visually clear!
I'm surely saving this video for when I do my next project!
Just take your time when laying out your design and ask your supplier good questions. That's all you need to make your project come out aweome.
Great job! However, I would not recommend this adhesive in the future. It sags considerably, which means you must have enough wooden spacers for the entire wall. It also has a 2 - 7 day drying time. I would recommend Loctite Power Grab Ultimate, which sticks immediately, allowing you to remove the wooden spacers. It also dries in about 24 hrs, allowing you to mortar more quickly.
What’s benefits of using an adhesive over say thin set?
@@garrettp.5018 the problem I've heard is that it is not sticky enough; the "tiles" slide down the wall, jamming your spacers. I'm not even sure it will adhere to brick. Then when you try to pull the spacers, you run the risk of pulling off your bricks. If you use rope, the bricks will crush the rope and end up creating spaces that are smaller than the actual diameter of the rope. I have heard of people using mastic, which is stickier, but it smells horrible, and is also harder to find. I would put out little extra money and use the Loctite Powergrab Ultimate. Use a caulk gun and "butter back" the bricks. Make sure it's a rough surface, or at the very least primed with a quality primer.
Great job! That looks fantastic!
That’s an amazing job…loooks awesome!
Awesome job! I’m amazed how quickly the adhesive cured and you were able to remove the spacers. Only thing I would have done differently was to use an actual mason brush. Think that would’ve been more effective for you when finishing the striking.
Looks great! I love it. Very helpful video, thank you.
This is the most satisfying video I've ever watched, thank you for the inspiration!
Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing this, made this project so much easier than it would have been otherwise. Before I watched this, I was going to approach it like I was doing tile, but this is much different. Very helpful.
I'm glad it helped... you can absolutely lay these like tile, but it takes a different backer and different adhesive/mortar.
Seeing it in other videos it had me fooled - I thought it was a real brick wall. Very nicely done, Greg!
Thanks John. I'd be lying if I didn't admit that I designed it to look convincing on camera... Its the details at the corners and breaking down the scale that sells whether or not it looks authentic. We use thin brick on big buildings all the time and if you don't nail the details it looks like a big sheet of laser printed paper stuck to a box.
Thank you, this video is really helpful for everyone embarking on a similar project and your project has turned out amazing, well done!
Well done, Sir! Excellent work.🇬🇧
Fantastic! Thank you for the blow by blow video. I’m starting an accent wall in our bedroom so this video was definitely needed.
The spacer strips and good layout are the key to a pro-level job! Good luck!
Very informative video...I am going to be selling thin brick for my friend's company and wanted to learn abt it so this video was very helpful. Thank you!
This is the nicest thin brick I've seen on RUclips. Very authentic look.
Can you please direct all diy videos. This should be the template of how to make a video. Great info, Perfect camera angles, no 10 minute fluff about how this Brick reminds You of your grandmas cottage. I loved it and learned a lot. Thank you!
I’ve watched so many installing videos for thin brick and/or veneer brick. No one else used or uses a glue compound for adhering the bricks to drywall. I’m following your lead, hope it works.
Follow up on this, the set time was too long for me. I was using regular tile spacers on non-uniform shaped thin brick. Which caused the bricks to not fit properly with the spacers and they were sliding down the wall. Ended up buying dowels and switched over to liquid nails extreme. Can I post a picture on here? Don’t know how.
WOW! STUNNING !
This is just what I needed for my project, thank you so much for the tutorial. You are a true artist and craftsman. By the way, the “right way to do it” is whatever way that works, and you got the job done beautifully.
Thank you for the kind words. Good luck with your project!
I'm still slightly concerned about the 2 tones of Weight held up by drywall paper
Nice job! Very helpful info for my upcoming project. I hope to brick up a small area fireplace.
thank you for this beautiful work.
a question please, how you make it looks old?
This project is AMAZING! Such beautiful finished walls! Thanks for the informative tutorial. We’ll be starting our wall project in a week or two. Fingers crossed!🤞🏻
Good luck! take your time making sure things are laid out well and that everything stays level and plumb as you go.
Is there ANYTHING you can’t do! Heh. Looks awesome and professional. You’re 100% right about making it feel like a lived in workshop.
No doubt. It makes a HUGE difference.
WOW! Thanks for sharing and giving the rest of us encouragement to try a project like this. Beautiful..........
Awesome job on your brickwork! You've given me the skills and confidence that I can do this, too. Thanks!
Wow. Great work and a great video. Very informative from beginning to end. It is a beautifully designed wall.
Awesome!!! I’m about to do this as a back splash. Thanks for your video
Greg, the end result of your thin brick wall project is epic. The mortar prep and application tips were excellent. I would have tried to finish the tuck pointing way too early and ruined the brick.
That is insanely impressive. I can't wait to just do my fireplace surround! Thanks!
I’m always curious about the kind of people who downvote this kind of video.
This guy is experienced enough to make the job look professional, and explained everything so that a diy-er could replicate, and did it as a project someone could do in a weekend or two. Sure, he could have spent hours more to make every cut with a saw, but it would have taken way more time
🙏💚
Wow, that looks awesome Greg! Nice work!
Dude, that looks fantastic.!! It does make it look like an old warehouse turned into a work shop. Great detail too. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks brother!
brilliant workmanship
thank you so much for the tutorial! I am about to do a brick veneer project on one of my walls. Been skeptical to start (you know the heebie jeebies you get when you're about to start something and the reluctance LOL) But I'm gonna watch your video several times and get that confidence :) Tho I am only going to do the straightforward pattern, I LOVE the patterns you created. I also wanted the brick to be further apart, to see more mortar, and was thinking what was the best thing to use as spacers. Now I know :) Thank you once again!!
excellent craftsmanship, Greg. excited to try this out at home in the living room.
Love how beautiful this was, you’re a great teacher too!
Most adorable little speed square ever! 😁 lol
Great work 👏 👍 👌
I have a question.
Can I use this thin bricks as outside siding without exposing the house to extreme heat or cold, snow and rain, and high humidity and moisture as I live in Toledo, OH where I think we have the worst weather.
Also can use cement to glue the bricks.
Thank you
I did a thin brick wall in my house bc of this video! Thanks for the info!
👊👊👊
Thank you! Thank you!!! Thank you!! Wonderful job both showing AND explaining what you did. A labor of love. I have several places where I will do this. Master bedroom #1. Also think I'll dress up our shop too. A little extravagance goes a long way. Great job Greg.
You're quite welcome. It will take you a fair amount of time to set all the brick, but it's not hard work by any means... Just take your time and get the joints even and level. Good luck!
I am doing a project outside. I wonder if the glue will work outside as well. i plan to use redgard on the wall to seal it. Thank you. Beautiful work
thats a killer job,alot of work,i am glad i dry stacked my stone LOL..i am getting too old for this kind of stuff
Looks awesome. For those looking to cut costs, if you can acquire a bunch of regular bricks, you can use a paver saw and cut the bricks lengthwise into 1/2 inch or so thin bricks. It must be a brick or paver saw, because the brick must clear the top of the saw. They can be rented. I went on Craigslist and in the community looking for free bricks. It also allows you to use some variety. You might get lucky and find some stamped bricks!
Helpful video and your casual pleasant presentation style is very compelling. Thanks.
Thank you! I’m going to try this on my fireplace and if it goes well.... a kitchen wall!
Great video! I’m a GC, and have been in between masons. Have a small project to get done ASAP, and though I didn’t really want to do it myself, this is making me rethink that.
That looks amazing. I love it. I'm going to be doing my first simple brick veneer project in the next couple weeks and this has made me wish I aimed a bit bigger. Nice work!
This is insane! What an amazing job! I just want to make a herringbone patio. How inspiring!
This video helped me with a project I was working on. Thanks!
you did a great job! you have a lot of patience, that's for sure, but it turned out awesome!
Good Job! I’m working on my entry and around the garage door. Amazing how different the area looks when finished!
this. is. awesome. i was so inspired i pretty much decided to copy, borrow, steal, replicate your entire process (though on a much smaller scale). i only have a pilaster...but the english pub...great stuff. one thing thing....using the Loctite Subfloor...you make it looks easy....finding that it takes a few hours to fully set up. dont know how you didnt go bananas waiting for it to dry. but beautiful work!
Yeah, they have a "quick grab" adhesive, but it still needs to set up. I had a system where I'd lay up 5-6 courses every night. On the weekends I'd lay up bricks in the morning and then again in the evening. I'm glad you were able to steal a few details!!! Brick is all about the patterns, bumps and edges.
@@GregsGarage you are my hero for responding. and for confirming that im not crazy. i started yesterday and it kept sliding. i cut 7/16s spacers which helped. then a couple hours later...bricks still had some give. so i woke up this morning with the plan to lay two or 3 levels every 4 or 5 hours. based on your process...im on the right track. and yes...love the bumps and edges. tile saw was giving me lines that were too clean. needed to take the hammer to the edges to rough them up...based on your work....thx again.
Wow! This was great and gave me the confidence to do my own. Thanks!
I am a bricklayer and i aprove this shot looks absolutely amazing i think im gonna have to give it a try
Thank you for your video. It really helped me with my project.
I'm glad to hear it! I hope your project came out just like you wanted it to.
This looks amazing! thanks for the upload
All came out nice. Well done. Thanks for sharing Greg.
Thanks Randy.
Greg what a nice addition to the shop. You did an awesome job laying the brick. Hope you're doing well.
I am. Thanks Rich!
Nice work and beautiful design
I like the fact that it's functional as a metal work fire proofed area.
Me too! That wasn't a complete mistake. :D. Full disclosure... There is fire rated gyp board behind it, so its a belt and suspenders situation. The entire garage is rated for fire rated goodness.
Looks great, after all that beautiful detailed work in the arched area are you sure you want to cover it with a chalkboard?
Yep! The chalkboard looks awesome in place.
Great work GP! I want to use that word today, porosity.
Bucks WoodShop porosity decreases moisture. I’m going to say that around my wife all day
Good lort! I'm glad I could help you guys with your Friday challenge. My word today is going to be deplorable.
I have actually never heard of thin brick, but this was great! And your space looks amazing! Thanks for sharing the information.
Absolutely beautiful! All your hard work was worth it!
Great video!
I like that little square you were using!
Great job pal👍🏽
who makes that square
Holy hell that's gorgeous
Man that came out nice now i know why i have so much work watching videos like this just give me so many ideas to do lol thanks man love your passion and your work
Nice work!! Huge inspiration behind designing my new loft. Well done my friend!!!
Great video about this process. I'm about to use the same process to lay thin brick behind a wood stove to make a fireplace appearance. This has some good tips I hadn't considered and I'm getting the grout bag and joint tool from your amazon links :P I'll be cutting my own thin bricks from whole salvaged bricks with a wet saw. I've cut brick with a dry diamond blade and that is super messy!! I hope you wore some PPE.
Good luck Charles... And yes, I had a full respirator on. I also had a dust mitigation system running the entire time. I would have preferred a wet saw for sure, but I didn't have one available, so I used the dry saw.
Thank you for the video! Very informative. I am getting ready to install a brick veneer on a drywall wall that's 17'x8'. And I have gone back and forth a million times on how I'm going to approach the install. Manufacturer suggests moisture barrier, metal lathe, lots of mortar, and then the brick.
I like your approach much better though. Any regrets on using the loctite? I'd use loctite power grab general purpose. Any thoughts?
Wow. This is awesome. Thanks for the tips
If the wall is painted do you need to put primer over it?
Great job. Sure makes a big change
felicidades hiciste un trabajo maravilloso,,,
Hi. Will the adhesive used here work on a painted wall? Or better remove the paint first?
Nice , great idea, great job .
Question about overhead grout/mortar joints - do you have any pro-tips for how to get mortar to stick into an overhead joint? Mixing it drier sounds logical, or perhaps an additive? Just thought I'd ask before spending a lot of time experimenting. Thanks Greg!
You nailed it... You can mix it like normal, then let it sit a bit to stiffen up. It's going to be a challenge to get it in the joint but it shouldn't just fall out if you put it in with a little pressure. I don't know of any additives to help it stick while its wet.
Thanks for a very informative video. Great work!! Over the long term, did that subfloor adhesive hold up
OK?
Wonderful wonderful tutorial! Quick question: could I used drywall primer on old plaster walls or would I need another type of primer?
You'd have to ask your supplier. I'm not sure what primers provide the best adhesion to plaster... The PVA primer works well on the paper face, which is COMPLETELY different than a cement plaster. They may actually suggest a thin set since you're substrate is porous.
Nice work , Looks amazing
Awesome.......I love it...thanks for describing in details.
Beautiful work, Greg.You're a true artisan!
You really created a nice atmosphere for your shop with the masonry work. I’m a big fan of the natural stone veneers for accent walls but grouting them can be a huge pain too.
Can you do this on the center block wall?
I'm going to do this to a room in my house off your tutorial! Question... If there is a little drywall damage behind it will there be adhesion issues? There was an ugly (pink) tile accent half way up the wall that I want to pull off. Inevitably there will be some minor damage from pulling it off.... suggestions here or can I adhere over it and then just mortar in without worry?
Beautiful, but not sure it is right to put all that weight on sheetrock?? other videos installed a wire mesh first and brick on top of the wire mesh
This was the supplier's recommendation for an indoor application. The manufacturer also recommends this method for installation indoors. If you are installing the veneer outside, it needs to be handled with a completely different set of details similar to a traditional stone veneer application.
Great Job! , I want to do the same on the walls around a wood stove. Is it ok to use this same adhesive Loctite PL400 or do I need a different one for heat resistant?
I would defer to your supplier. There are different types of brick, backer and adhesives for use in heat sensitive areas.
Great explanation. Would you be able to hang something on this wall?
I've hung several things on it. I drill through and use drywall anchors.
And the wood you used for the spacing, did you also use it to hold the brick in place?
Question, I’m doing bbq island and using the polymer mortar specifically for thin brick, like $15 bag, works well , question is for the grout lines should I use the same or just get some pre mix S type ?
I am a bricklayer and I say you do great work lol 👍and where did you get that little square at? Never seen one that small
You’re exactly right! I’m a Mason also and was impressed with his work.
Especially with him using the grout bag, most of seen try to use a tuck pointer.
And for all those that think the grout bag looks Easy, it is.... but those forearms will be worn out after that entire wall. lol
I’ve never seen a square that small either. I’ve Always just thrown another brick over my cut piece to line it up.
I'm a mason, and my concern would be longevity of this over time. I'd much rather put up cement board and use a thinset mortar on an application like this.
@@jamesfranks1790 I have been doing some research, getting ready to do some of this in my house and I agree with you
james franks
You’re right, it’s likely they will come loose and fall off over time.
Hardy backer board works really good and I’ve had good luck with Mastic holding them secure.