How to Install Old Mill BrickPanel+ System
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- Опубликовано: 26 дек 2017
- Learn how to easily install the Old Mill Thin Brick BrickPanel+ system.
Old Mill’s patented panel is the most innovative option for your thin brick needs.
The EPS panel incorporates insulation and guide channels into a single, easy to install system. Learn more at www.oldmillbrick.com . 
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I just want to give you ALL my money due to the straightness of your utility knife cuts by hand 😲😲😲
the brick slices on the white foam is a winning combination would be a fairly easy job to do i like it alot glenn
this is GREAT! can i use this system inside around a fireplace as well? WOW.
My dream haus no matter how small is a brick house ... thanks for the idea.
From a building science perspective, there are several key problems here. First off the horizontal cuts on the back of the foam will do nothing to assist in drainage. In fact just the opposite, it's a place for water to pool. Secondly, the weather barrier is too thin and does not allow for proper air circulation behind it. That lack of air space behind the foam creates a secondary issue below windows where the speaker stated the importance of proper window installation yet there is nowhere for moisture to go if the window leaks as the foam is pushed up directly below it.
Now if there was an airspace (behind the foam) that would not be a concern as any water would simply drain, but being that there is none you are going to get moisture build up that takes far longer to dry than is recommended. The fix would be to use a dimple mat product that keeps the foam board a MINUMUM of 1/4" away from the wall surface.
Lastly, What about vapor drive? Brick, even a thin veneer such as in this case can hold a good amount of water, what happens when the sun hits it and drives the vapor backwards towards the structure? My guess is the foam is an open cell type which will do nothing to stop it so once again you end up with the problem of moisture trapped between the foam and the housewrap. If it is a closed cell foam product that complicates things even more as then you are trapping moisture that is trying to exit from the inside of the house causing far greater problems.
Good points, John Salazar.
What do you think of other thin brick systems, such as those that use perforated metal panels instead of foam panels, and construction adhesive instead of mortar?
@@bricology Lick and sticks are always going to be a problem. Look at the products such as those from Certainteed. They make these brick or stone panels that are about 12" tall by 30" long and you screw them into the wall with 4 screws. They have a built in metal frame that keeps the panels about 1/2" away from the wall surface. You must allow for things to dry and you must ensure that vapor is kept from forcing itself in between layers. Poly Wall® Aluma Flash is vapor proof for warmer climates and works great behind brick or stone or for northern climates cosella dorken makes their delta vent sa both are much better weather barriers to put behind any brick. For retrofits where you want to add exterior insulation I would throw on a zip r panel and then seal the edges nail holes with their tape or joint goo and then add an additional water screen layer on top. Do it right the first time so that you don't have to deal with a bigger problem in 15 years.
@@thebigdoghimself Hi John! Glad you talked about 'building science'-Joe and his team are fantastic! Give me your 2 cents on my build. thin brick as here with either a 1/2 dimple matt (or 1 x 3 furring strips) holes sealed with ploy wall with these 2 inch panels (looks like closed cell xps foam). Should provide excellent drainage and vapor/moisture escape. Most of this brick will be covered by a wrap around covered porch so vapor drive to interior will be minimal. Interior on this 2 x 6 construction includes roxul batts.
Thank you I've been saying the same moisture trap bricks are not water proof
🎉
Very nice. Dont know when will Vietnam have this technique
Very nice 👌
How do you apply the drought in tight corners such as near windows
How well will this type of installation hold up in rain and freezing weather?
Good point that's why they haven't answered you
Can I use a loctite construction glue or mastic for old Mill bricks? I don't want the mess of mixing mortar.
Have you considered the cost difference? Make the mess and save the dough.
Looks beautiful. Does it have a high insulation value?
Hello, our panels range from R-5 up to R-28 continuous insulation value. Check out our website here to learn more about it: www.oldmillbrick.com/brickpanelplus
@@OldMillBP What if only first two ft of my wall is veneer and then its hardy board siding. Do i still use stucco paper for the whole wall or just the brick portion?
@@eugenek1895 I have the same question. I want to use this or something similar over the bottom of my home up to the siding. I live in a banana belt, extreme dry heat in the summer with mildish winters. Freezes at least 1-3 times a year, but hardly ever a hard, long freeze. Just looking for something to spruce up my home.
Can I put these on an exterior wall that already has smooth painted concrete on it? Do I just use the adhesive to set them, then mortar?
Exact same question here!
Although, I’d GUESS you would probably use the same style washers with concrete screws instead of the wood screws he’s showing.
Nice
Should make cement mold version.
Can you lay these over stucko?
you missed one on the vertical ....
Why don’t they supply panel cut for bottom row?
Is this good for interior walls as well? And what is the cost per square foot?
Maybe grout then use a trowel and cut the mud flush? Like if laying real brick? Then tool the joints starting with the vertical joints aka the
“Head” joints
It's a shame they don't offer headers as well so you could do Flemish bond rather than stretcher bond, which to me, is far more attractive.
Get your angle grinder out mate and cut those stretches into headers 😃
And with this system....approximate price per square?
depends where you got it from..mine was 8.00
maybe you can reproduce it yourself
@@TheWritingGirl $8 per what? Square foot, linear foot? Thank you 😊
What's the warranty on this system? I can't see these sticking for more than a week or two. One freeze thaw cycle and these are popping like a bag of popcorn.
If you have a solid brick and a polymer morter with a good water seal, it could outlast stucco.
@@brettknoss486 bricks are not water proof never have been
What is the proper gapping space between each brick
10 millimetres
Is this for exterior as well?
Shlomo Cohen yes
No it ain't it's brick it natural product which sucks water put one in a bucket and it will suck the water like a sponge
Could this work on a shipping container house
They have a service # - don't have it handy but I called them with a question about an exterior foundation application and they were very helpful and and answered all my questions. I don't know if they monitor this video for questions.
Good
Sorry, I don't trust the foam as a proper substrate. If you bump into it, the brick may loosen.
The completed project looks authentic but brick is porous and fear mold development in nooks and crannies of the very combustible polystyrene; especially if fasteners are in-set too far like is briefly seen exactly 24 seconds into the video. While mold resistant , its insulating and nonporous qualities causes moisture condensation. There is a glance of a fastener drilled in 1/16 - 1/8 inch too far at the beginning of the video (as noted). Polystyrene is usually avoided because it catches fire easily, is not very chemically resistive, and when melted, is a flammable liquid. For instance orange oil used for termite treatment would possibly dissolve it. It's not biodegradable and produces toxic gasses when burned. It's also made with chemicals known to be carcinogens. But I do like the brick; it just should have an alternative to the polystyrene imho.
It does it's called brickwork been around since Adam was a pup
I have great concerns with how this would hold up over the years in New England with so many freeze/thaw cycles, and also the weeping method stated seems counter productive.having shown it before installation going vertically, then realizing he installed it horizontally making it it quite useless.And the issues of water retention in the brick itself with nowehere to go,Imagine it freezing in place in winter conditions after a rain/freezing rain, then freezing scenario......would love to see a building after 5 or 10 years in Maine weather with this product, Not sold on it...and other than the weight difference, it seems like more labor, having been a self employed mason for 40+ years,I don't see any benefit other than less weight to haul up on the staging...
I've seen buildings with ceramic tiles on the exterior hold up just fine, but for any system like this, I'd want examples of installations that have held up will in the same area. What holds up forever in Boston might not last in Bangor. I would have been inclined to silicone the brick slices to the Styrofoam, then use the mortar (or even sanded caulk) between them, but they seem to have confidence in it using only cementitious materials.
@@pcno2832 this is a brick it will transfer water just like a sponge like bricks do they suck up water will not work it a moisture trap if they were water proof they wouldn't be putting all that flashing in there stupid idea that's why they won't answers you moisture won't weep out in can't it has no cavity as in traditional brickwork any water which gets in and will is there for good you can see when the wet crout goes in the brick sucks the moisture it will do that with rain like you won't believe I've seen bricks with water running down the back of the wall like a river
Thank you for the video.. but your cinematography is making me dizzy
So true 😂😩🤢
And this is the reason you DO NOT sneeze around houses builded in the USA...
Put that block of wood and jointer down it hurts to watch that bit
This product is great for interior...for exterior, not a smart idea...he talked about the size difference and that really doesn't matter for exterior...wait about 3 years and once mother nature takes a beating on it, let's see how many of those thin brick stay
Hi Jonathan, we have done pull away testing on our BrickPanel+ system and it performs really well! We also offer a five year warranty when you use our full system and install it yourself. We have a 15 year warranty if the system is installed by a professional. Let us know if you have any other concerns.
@@OldMillBP I don't mean to be negative, but a 15 year warranty is a blink of the eye in the life of a home. This is a major problem with Americans and their view on how long things will last. Even vinyl siding, as awful as it is, last longer than 15 years.
“Tools you need for this project are pretty basic” mentions all tools but a tile saw haha. You can tell he thinks about it when he talks about the first cut
The entire system seems problematical to me, since the integrity of the panels (supporting the weight of the thin bricks) is going to depend entirely upon the strength of the mortar they're attached to the panels with, and the panels' resistance to spalling (or whatever the equivalent of spalling is that foam panels will do). Heavy masonry + mortar + foam = failure, sooner or later.
Other companies make perforated metal panels that seem to have a much greater likelihood of surviving for at least a few decades, to hold the thin brick in place, and the thin bricks can be bedded with an advanced bonding material, like Gorilla Construction Adhesive.
Hi Bricology - on the contrary: Metal panels are less durable because they expand and contract with the weather, which means they are prone to crack and cause the mortar to crack with it. Additionally, they must be mechanically fastened, which creates punctures in your air barrier and substrate - meaning your surface is no longer waterproof, and the metal panels can rust and fail. Foam panels, on the other hand, do not expand and contract like metal does, it gives additional and continuous insulation (CI) and adheres to the air barrier using our Old Mill Brick adhesive. Our BrickPanel+ system is guaranteed for 15 years...one of the best guarantees in the industry. :) the best part, is that our patented foam panels can be installed for less than $4/sq ft.
it looks like a mickey mouse work because of that foam...
Lots of haters in the comments, if you can do better show us your video !
There's loads of videos of traditional brickwork which are better
Pointless. Just glue to bricks to the wall. No "system" needed!
won't the bricks crack like tile does on a block wall that is has curing mortar?
Good