Home Made Electric Dirt Bike Build - Part 4
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- Опубликовано: 13 авг 2022
- Today we are building a 72v 12,000w electric dirt bike! using a Kawasaki KX250 dirt bike frame. I am very excited about this project, and am excited to see what this electric dirt bike can do.
Check out the welder I used in this video:
PrimeWeld.com
bit.ly/2xGIfke
TIG225X AC DC TIG Welder
bit.ly/2ywcgTJ
"12000w" e bike kit from amazon
(removed)
ratherBwelding merchandise
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#fabrication #ebike #dirtbike
Music by Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com) 
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The worst part about these videos is when I see the timestamp and realize the video is almost over, you truly do an amazing job on this channel and we all appreciate the effort you put in man!
Agreed
Very agreed. 👌🏼
Literally same
That’s why I live watching old projects of people so I can binge THE whole thing and not have to wait
Couldn't have said it better myself
Dude’s demeanor is so chill and a good fabricator too.
The stock shock is 100 times better than anything you can buy for under $750. Use the stock part and get it revalved/resprung by a shop to your specs for $350-450 or so.
He's right you know. Oem is best unless ur gonna spend some serious cash lol
Just respringing will be $120ish, and you can likely use the wide adjustment range of the OEM shock to get the damping in the ballpark anyways.
Keep the stock shock, you can set the suspension sag with the adjuster and replace the spring if needed very cheap. I don't think you will need to swap the spring tho.
You also can build a new "bone", where the shock is mounted and put the mounting point further to the front. Lever rule... 😉
Yup Dont make the rear suspension lighter ! do not forget that the rearwheel is much heavyer and the effect wil be big.
@@motorradfreundekrumbachsachsen ١١
@@vanDeudekom but it's not sprung weight anymore...
I don't know why you're so worried about the shock - add a second battery if you're that worried about it. You'll appreciate the range anyway.
Pro tip for You. Instead of using a piece of paper to touch off your cutting tool use a piece of 0.010 brass shim stock. It is easier to feel the tool touch and it is always 0.010 thick so you know exactly how far from the part you are.
Don't forget to put a tube/spacer between the inner swingarm mount brackets to replicate the solid bushing the motor used to supply in that position.
Your channel is one of the most interesting channels on RUclips...
I gotta say Chris, this project is becoming one of my favorites, the all aluminium frame is very cool looking, and i think it will ride great from the start. You will enjoy it, i'm sure, those hub motors are almost silent and the power is great. The only downside of hub motors is cooling, but it'll be fine. Can't wait for the next video, i know this project is a lot of work with all the machining and welding involved, i respect your patience so much. Have a good day.
Looking good! Don't get discouraged. It takes time to get it right. You've shown it time and again.
It looks super sweet, Chris. I bet it's going to be fun to ride! You're killing it with these top-notch builds, bro.
I would use that same exact shock because it's only a little bit of weight difference and you can adjust that thing. Good job keep up the good work
I feel like the weak point won’t be the shock being too stiff, but your frame/box. Looks good but it needs some serious reinforcement
I like how you made jigs for everything, instead of just eyeballing it.
Your music choices are so much better than most channels.
You've come a long way in 9 years. From roman candles to electric dirt bikes.
Coming along nicely. I have figured out a time estimating formula that works pretty well for projects. Make your best estimate.....then double that. And then add 20%. Ok, now you're close.
Don't worry too hard about your deadlines with regards to us. Just keep pumping out the content, it's all good.
Hello! I have big doubts that such a "barrel" will withstand the load like a factory motorcycle frame. But, as you know, tests will show. Good luck!
Don't put in a cheap shock, do it right from the start - keep that one. You'll just end up changing it in the future anyways when the cheap one breaks or doesn't work well.
In regards to the shock absorber. Don't forget the powered wheel now weighs a LOT more. That means more unsprung weight. So you might be ok with the stock spring but the damper would probably need beefing up a bit.
I can't wait for the outcome of the project. Something I want to do myself eventually for sure as the UK laws are a bit more relaxe
The ending cracked me up 😆
Every time he says thanks I’ll see you in the next video I say out loud thanks for having me I’ll see you then, this guys mint
Man, i love what you do in your tiny shop. bigger shops make worse product and less cool projects. Really cool to see you think through so many original ideas and build your own parts!
I love to see a 4wd gokart/buggy using 4 of these wheel motors. Some thing kinda like the coyote outrider but gokart style
Toggle link suspension. Pretty smart design. Think of it like having a lever arm with a pipe on top, and a really nice set of padded gloves to pull on.
Suggestion on 220v... Instead of the expense of upgrading the wiring to the shop, why not look for a used welder / generator that the portable welder guys have on their trucks? Not sure what they run in your neck of the woods but with your skills, you could probably find a tired one and refurbish it without much difficulty. Then you won't have to move everything to weld the heavy stuff.
YES! absolutely use the dirtbike rear shock. its fully tuneable and you can replace the spring if its too stiff.
DO NOT BUY A CHEAP SHOCK OFF AMAZON/EBAY
Any one else end up going to sleep when he is machining it's so relaxing 😌😎
use the dirt bike shock just let some of the gas out of it works like air shock and you gotta know your wheel 5 time the spinning weight it was u need the heavier shock to keep it down
Keep the shock. Decided what to do after you ride the bike.
Maybe you'll need more batteries...
Regarding the swingarm, try and use the plates from the electric motor in the pockets of the original chain adjustment slots on the swingarm. If you need to clearance the arm, seems to me you have the correct set of skills to do it
Yes keep the suspension! Dirtbikes have the best suspension that you can get.. by far.
Dude that would be super dope to put 2 of those wheels together and make a 2 wheel drive dirt bike 1 in the front and 1 in the back
I always wonder how one man can do everything it's my dream to build and Buggy and Dirt Bike by my own hands hope so it comes true. Brother I am always Waiting to see your video
Love from India 🇮🇳.
Great progress. You are building nearly everything from scratch. It's not going to be quick or easy.
I’m looking forward to the Rip , and see how it preforms
I like when you make electric vehicles.
Really curious if that aluminium frame box for the battery etc, is going to be strong enough, of it it will crumple in half when you land a jump etc. It is just an outer shell, compared to the very strong tubular structure that the original was... I am a bit worried it is not going to be strong enough and will just buckle on impact.
A tube frame won’t be as stiff, but it will take more load and be heavy.
Old school F1 engineers know this, and sent drivers out in cars built just like the box frame in this video, great chassis until they hit a decent bump and shear the engine mounts or separate entirely.
I LOVE those footpegs! I wish I had them on my '70 Yamaha DT1 250 back in the day. I guess I can't complain. They were narrow but solid steel as was everything else. At least the engine had an aluminum case and side covers. Got that bike when I was 14, in 1976. I was about 100 lbs..
I loved that bike.
Can’t wait to see the next part, this is probably the coolest project I’ve seen
Really enjoy the videos, would be awesome if the videos were longer, thanks for sharing.
Can not wait to see this "BEAST " done.
I appreciate you man when you did welding on cam you did it fast and economical, very cool work smarter not harder.
So freaking impressed by your work and how you have evolved into such a amazing engineer. Wish I could hang with you and learn from your ways. I really do appreciate your work more then I can explain. Proud of you brother keep it up.
The stock shock should be fine as you have at least doubled the unsprung weight of the rear wheel, a softer spring would just allow the heavier rear wheel to compress the spring faster. Springs are measured in compression rate, bike + rider weight is only part of the equation.
This deserves a bump up!
Can't you make an extension cord to reach from the garage to the shop? Over size it for the voltage drop.
I apreciat it that you show this nice project with us💪
May the nice weather continue while you are welding, but don't worry it'll be nice and muddy when you ride it.
Just two words...Excellent! Respect!
Stuff takes time to do it right . I’m sure everyone understands
Bloopers at the end are always cool ,showing the reality 👍
I like the way you do all the things, it’s make it so simple and it’s not rocket science.
Absolutely use the stock shock with the linkage. You can get different springs from Racetech for right around $100 and I don’t think the battery, controller, and wiring with be a whole ton lighter then the engine, radiator, and fuel tank
Chris you really need to design and install a torque arm for the motor mounts. That motor will quickly spin the axle and round the "flats". Maybe just add more steel to the plates inside the alum. blocks to machined to give more support for the anti rotation flats on the axle.
I hope that makes sense.
BTW you should test the mounts you made for the pegs. You are mounting it to pretty thin alum. you don't want them failing over a jump you could hurt yourself.
Youre a clever booyyy! When i saw you doing the jigs for the pegs i was like wtf? And then i saw it! Maith an buichail!
Woohoo 🎉🌟😃👌 allsome stuff from cruzermans inventions 😁👍
With your record in picking shocks, lol run and adjust the OE one.
As ever great video ....
You might want to add a plate either inside the frame or outside to strengthen the area around your foot peg fixtures. Something to spread out the load over the skin of your frame. Nice work!
A bit of tubing to lock the pegs together might suffice and stiffen the whole frame
Nothing better to blow chips off of a part than a straw from Cookout
My man making his own angle iron over here 😁
How the electric version of this will be lighter than the original gas one is very interesting.
It is called pro link keep the spring system look in to using it on other projects it wil keep your suspention muts more compact and cotrolleble
You can glue that rooster tail back together with CA glue. It will be as strong or even stronger than the plastic itself.
Nice work Chris and i wish my mind was like urs when i was ur age.. BTW.. Maybe just think about a cord to reach shop as it didnt look that far and u could bury it in pvc underground and could do urself for pretty cheap..
Time for a new upgrade! A new tig would be great seeing that ones broke! Lol a better one!
Your fabrication skills are amazing mate, as a motocross rider I know about the suspension including the linkage ( the part you don't know what its called haha) purpose of the linkage is to make the shock compress faster and slower in the stroke, the shock is designed to work with the linkage. As far as stiffness goes the spring is only for ride height, you need to send the forks and shock off to a dirt bike suspension place to have it re valved to suit the bike weight and your weight. just changing the springs will make it feel dead to ride if you went stiffer you'd be riding on the spring and not feel the damping.
I'm keen to see how it handles with the Weight of the wheel motor, Can't wait to see this thing finished
Good job on those motor/hub mounts. They need to be really strong. I would assume the manufacturer has taken care of the hub specs and the rest is up to you. Those mounts are going to experience some serious tourqe.
Based off the design of the swing arm end, correct me if I’m wrong, but it seems to be static. You want a bit of sliding room for the chain tensioning and rear wheel alignment. Awesome build and can’t wait for the next part.
Edit: completely forgot it has no chain, but you may still want it for wheel alignment even if you just shave like an 1/8 in off the black brackets to slide.
love how its look with dirt bike rims
The part With the v part and the Thing in the Middle its called a link system is for better suspension all expensive dirtbikes have it and your shock is Either with air or oil and u can makr it softer if u press the valve on it and sry for My bad english but i know the feeling with the welding but keep doing it looks good i have welded for 6 years now and I love ur builds big fan
Just a tip, toe clamps need to be parallel to the table and the work.
For maximum holding strength.
This thing is going to handle awesome
Brothers your good information about electric vehicles thanks brothers when it's coming to Indian people used purposes in Bangalore 😉
Hey man, love the vids. If I could make just one suggestion, make one of the wheel mount blocks adjustable front to back so that you can be sure the wheel tracks perfectly parallel to the frame. The bike will feel super weird if one side of the axle is closer to the front than the other one, you know? Anyway, great work mate, keen to see where this build goes.
keep up the brilliant work chris
I want to see this channel grow, it would be cool to do a project with The McFarland crew with some unique fabrication.
Loving the build
Why you don't make a 220v extension cord with a good thick wire to have 220v to plug in the welder in the shed when you need it? So you don't have to move everything to your driveway/garage when you need to weld something.
Was about to comment the same thing
with the hub motor on I bet the bike weighs just as much or more than stock
Progress is progress man, it's obvious you did a ton of work this episode. I especially liked those foot peg mounts. Swapping a spring out on that shock is not a big deal, just run it the way it is and see how it does. The extra weight on the rear wheel might need a bit more dampening actually. Just send it!
Excellent video and project as always.
You should put some kind of rubber or plastic in between the aluminum and the steel so that it doesn't rot away. Dissimilar metals together cause electrolysis which corrodes the metal. Or something like that.
Called galvantic corrosion.
Man love to see you work👍🏻👊🏻and progress is a slow process! But the result will be awesome i can already see that. Electronics can always easily be upgraded but the frame can’t and so far that looks exquisite!!!! I do have a self built bomber ebike but still im a bit jealous of your approach(other skills and bigger/better workshop😅) Keep up the good work i cant wait to see the final result
Well done!! Keep up the awesome job!!
One thing you want to consider is anywhere you’ve got still going through your aluminum bushings you should drill it and input in grease fittings were coming with some kind of a bronze bushing so that the steel wool seized to the aluminum when you try to take it apart for being out in the weather
Iv just watched all 4 episodes 1 after another quality fabrication mate keep up the excellent work my friend its just 1 thing driving me crazy is I really wish you had used a mid drive motor
Not sure about that it looks well iffy
Your very creative RBW.
Keep up the amazing work! Can't wait till the next video!!
I would also make a steel plate for the inside of the foot pegs. You will start to crack the aluminum
I say keep the dirt bike shock. I don't think 40 - 50 lbs. will be enough to warrant changing. You'll never get the same quality by changing it rather than simply adjusting or getting a softer spring. I really think that spring will do as it is IMO. I think I would opt for more battery if the spring is too hard. Just a thought. Great project BTW! Don't sweat hurrying to bolt stuff together. The fab is the reason we all watch the channel bro. Personally, I'd rather you make sure it's exactly like you envision it instead of compromising for time.
Saying wats up from Harrisburg Pennsylvania I watch all ur videos
Alluaminum fab is so satisfying
That rear shock is very adjustable
I (we) see a lot of progress!
The bloopers/cut outs at the and always make me laugh
U need a bar to connect foot pegs on inside of the case lots weight and force when you jump pegs will snap right off
Look into the type of steel you're using with the Aluminum. Could cause corroding when they touch.
The build is looking great! It's neat to see how you tackle different problems as they arise. You certainly have some mad skills. You could honestly just set the camera up in the corner and let it run for a long time, and I'd watch it all. Thanks for the video.
The time lapse on a lot of content providers videos drives me nuts. I would much rather watch a few minutes of regular speed video with edits as the video progresses
That "thing" is called a "cantilever suspension". It allows to use the full travel of the suspension independently of the suspension arm length, by adjusting the leverage changing the lenght of the small arm on the bottom.
On most dirt bikes that small bottom arm you connected to the frame is adjustable in lenght. (A universal joint with a screw rod), so you can adjust it depending on the suspension size. It can also be used to make the suspension harder/softer.
Great work
You inspired me to make my own electric motorbike
Well done!
ur a wild boy 😎 🔥 reverse engineering master.