Home Made Electric Dirt Bike Build - Part 5
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2022
- Today we are building a 72v 12,000w electric dirt bike! using a Kawasaki KX250 dirt bike frame. I am very excited about this project, and am excited to see what this electric dirt bike can do.
Check out the welder I used in this video:
PrimeWeld.com
bit.ly/2xGIfke
TIG225X AC DC TIG Welder
bit.ly/2ywcgTJ
"12000w" e bike kit from amazon
(removed)
ratherBwelding merchandise
bit.ly/2PF21Vf
Follow me on Instagram rather_bwel...
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#fabrication #ebike #dirtbike
Music by Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com) 
Развлечения
Never clicked a notification quicker in my life 😂😂
32👍 ...😂😂
This thing is gonna be sick 😷
Some countersunk screws in that side panel would sweeten it up so much 👌
For heat management you could always couple what gets hot to the frame. I'd wager the air passing the frame at the speeds you'll be doing will be plenty of cooling. If not bolt on a heatsink to the outside of the frame. It could look pretty cool!
Some cooling fins on that frame would be a good one to add
I would also recommend that you put a few vents in the battery compartment. They don't have to be big just enough to let out gases should the battery starts to off gas.
I've built a few ebikes. Look at Kepler's Stealth Bomber. Internal controller was fine. Aluminium will conduct heat away and emit it without air flow quite well.
Keep it sealed so you can spray wash etc. If the batteries need to vent, you want it closed up for safety.
I recommend adding a remote key/alarm, and a decent horn. People on endless-sphere have used RF key tags for ignition switch too.
I've allways done clamping drop outs. 5mm screw for 6kw motor. You might want 6 or 8mm screws for 12kw.
You can hit rocks on DD hub motors. Run decent pressure in the tube. Ive ridden up staircases on my 3kw 29er. It's fine at 55psi.
Great video series. Keep up the great work.
-Ken
@@MakeTechPtyLtd this is the right call
everyone suggesting he makes 'venting' on the bike either hasn't ridden an emtb or hasn't ridden one HARD
making any sort of entrance for dirt/dust/water to interface with the battery is a terrible idea and essentially makes removal of the battery and a washing a necessity after every ride
@@derelictdogma thanks. Yes people like to throw ideas around that may seem reasonable but after real world experience and investing thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours they may change their mind. The BMS on the battery should be sheilded as much as possible. A battery that big will not over heat before the motor does. The surface area and mass of the bike chassis is more than than any 12kw controller heatsink. It'll work really well having it all sealed up with controller thermally bonded to the chassis. As kepler did on his stealth bomber, he removed the controller electronics from its case and mounted the thermal block to the Chromoly bike frame with a custom made bracket.
Use ARP floating nutplates. Riv nuts rely on friction. Floating nutplates are the way to go. We use them in aviation there solid as hell.
One thing I must admit, I like to see you work boy, it's a blessing
Look on line. They have charts, X current over X distance requires X wire gauge.
The cord will work. It will be fine your not welding non stop for a hour. It's fine. Good idea to. Awesome videos dude
Your center where swing arm is sagging lower. That's why the seat isn't lining up right. Put another block under it and it will line up fine. Of course you'll need to make another upper shock mount now.
The reason the angle is wrong may be because the swing arm was cut.
yea
That's exactly what I cam down to say. Put another block under the frame. of course it's going to raise the over all height. This is a going to be a big boy bike.
Yup. Came here to say the same thing. Maybe I'm missing something though
Agreed. Also gonna affect his rake.
Had you made the new mounts longer, you could have pressed them into the swing arm, then only tack welds would have been required to retain them.
I agree with others saying the aluminum frame will work as a great heat sink so use some heat sink paste between the esc and the frame. You also will want to Statorade the motor if you haven't already to keep the motor cool. Looks great so far and can't wait to see it in action!
Agree, I regret a hub motor on my mountain bike
Look into frogzskin vent covers. They breath but don't let water in. You could add holes at the front behind the forks so air flows through.
Depending on how the controller heatsink is, just mount it so the fins are sticking out and seal it up. Or thermal compound it to the frame so that the frame conducts heat out.
Conformal coating for the controller's PCB and components and silicone for the lead ends.
Now you can put the controller on the outside and get the free range fan, the wind 😀
Hello couple of things. 1 try using soap on your cutting discs for cutting aluminum helps cut. 2 you will lose power on a welder using extension cables. Also I do enjoy watching your channel.
You can buy that cord on a spool in bulk and put your own ends on it. Might have been cheaper than two of those $200 cords. But since you have one already it would be cheaper to just add another. Either way getting the power inside out of possible weather delays is best.
I priced the cords required for his specs and I found that they were cheaper to purchase on Amazon. Kinda odd but what I found. Though the ones that I found were 100 feed and around the same price.
Why not just buy some plastic conduit and bury the cable and add a new circuit...easy. done.
@@audleyboyd1 The nice part about extension cords is that you don't need to be an electrician, don't need inspections, and don't need to dig. And since this isn't his property, extension cords means when he finally moves out of the nest, he can take the cords with him.
@@bradley3549 making way to much out of it . Bury the cable run it in so you don't snag it . If you want cable when you leave pull it out. Extension cords suck not long term always in the way and are dangerous.
My initial thought on the outlet was why not just buy one of those cords and run it to the shed? Used one of those cords for my pull behind camper before I sold it, works amazingly and super thick a durable.
In my opinion you sir should get a RUclips engineer er, of the year award for all of your successful creations and win a metal building that could be put over your existing building keeping you out of the elements this coming winter✌
It's looking unbelievable
You could make the bike suited for the road (cafe racer, naked, super sport). Just an idea to help with all the weight at the rear wheel. Keep up the great work 😀
For a road bike a hub motor is fine, but off road the shock has a much tougher job trying to control all that weight flying around. Oh well, it’s still gonna be a blast!
the shock just beneath your balls.good luck..jehehe
Unattach the heat sink from the motor controller and bolt it directly to the aluminum frame, with some thermal paste in between. The frame will act as the heat sink and keep everything cool.
A transparent cover door for the battery holder would've looked awesome & the inside of the battery tank lit up with some led lights would give it a Tron bike vibe.
That freshly machined aluminum is so beautiful
Counter sunk Allen screws would look better to hold down the panel.
and not scrape on your knees, legs, on the bolts, they will dig into you, I realise there's not a lot of thickness there, but even a dome head would be better, triangulate the seat with the swingarm attachment and the top shock mount love your vids,
bolts seem fine to me
I'm pretty sure that's not the final look, it's just progress stage of the build.
For sure. Or possibly button head Allen
@@Mad.Man.Marine yeah id say Torx or hex button head screws
If I hadn't been a subscriber for years you would have won me over when you made that custom countersink bit. Awesome idea!
Looks so cool! The unsprung weight will only really be a problem if your hitting huge jumps. I’m build a off-road 3 wheeler with no rear suspension the tires will soak up the bumps 👍
I think button head screws may be a better choice for the access panel, so your leg/pants are not prone to catch on the heads of the bolts while riding.
Awesome project man!
While your at it make this thing 2wd by adding a front hub motor. That would be pretty dope, either way this is a bad ass build
Go to harbor freight and get the 10 Gauge 100F cable and wire your own plugs onto it. I use this for my Travel trailer all of the time.
I am surprised you didn’t inset the rear axle blocks a couple of inches to spread load. Then plug weld or put dowel through the swing arm. Also the gyroscopic resistance may make it hard to lean or turn. The aluminum tank style frame can be used as a heat sink itself. Looks stout though. 👍
I think as long as you don't expect it to Perform like a dirt bike...it will never absorb rough terrain, land jumps, or handle like much lighter rear wheel. I guess not as much torque for climbing or acceleration as similar power mid drive either. I'm not sure I would trust the welds to take the abuse or have the rigidity of a proper dirt bike, it's more like a lighteeigt dual sport electric motorcycle that has some nice power and range
Gyroscopic forces plays only a really small role when leaning and turning. So no problems with that.
Oo
It looks like it belongs in the bed of one of those new rivian electric trucks. Cool build
I appreciate how much you show the fabrication processes you go thru, as a Carpenter and habitual tinkerer myself, the journey (process), the challenge of "can I make this work" , was way more satisfying than using the finished project ... Not to say COMPLETING a project wasn't satisfying
Hub motors like that would make a reverse trike an attractive option. Could be very small and "lightweight" electric 3wheeler, which is also 3WD and benefits from the round tire!
with the possible cooling issue you could do an external heatsink through the frame or you could put some fans in the cover one blowing in and one blowing out with some ducts on the fans to keep dirt and water from getting inside
We use long power cables at work 8 times as long as what you plan. Honestly surprised you didn't do that earlier 🤣
You’re doing a great job for basically just a garage project. I have a Sur Ron electric bike and its controller is mounted on the outside. Look for an IP 67 rating. If your controller has that it’s waterproof. Almost every electric bike I see has the controller mounted on the outside, even ones that are not IP 67 rated.
You do not need to cut or add aluminum for your seat to sit flush. Just drop down the front forks. Hope that helps.
Maybe, bbut gotta be careful doing that. That would alter the rake and trail geometry. Possibly to a completely unstable condition (tank slappers, twitchy steering, etc..).
Possibly it could be fine. But he did mention he was trying to match the original steering and suspension geometry so he wouldn’t have to start from scratch on the engineering for that, which I thought was one of the smartest ideas I’ve heard in a while.
Rake and trail aren’t rocket science, but they are extremely important for a bike to work right, and different bikes for different purposes will prefer different specs.
@@emersonb5764 tank slappers are pretty exciting when you first learn what it is 😂
That custom countersink drill bit was brilliant, well done. Always fun to watch your builds, makes me want to get off my butt and build something, but then I just watch another one of your videos instead 😄
I love this I've been wating your videos since I was in school in 2015 It inspired me to be an mechanic and do my own build keep up the amazing work
One thing you could do at a later date is add a smaller hub motor to the front,
Then have a 2wd bike
Great for hill climbing
Can be a small unit as it will be free wheeling most of the time and have a thumb throttle you can engage when in the tough stuff
Love your videos bro you are a awesome builder and fabricator the only thing I would like to see is longer videos
I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE HOW THE "SEAT OF YOUR PANTS " HOLDS UP WHEN YOU TEST DRIVE IT. IT'S BEEN VERY FUN WATCHING IT COME TOGETHER! YOU'RE TENACITY AND PERSISTENCE IS VERY ADMIRABLE! I HOPE YOU WEAR ALL THE SAFETY GEAR AVAILABLE WHEN YOU TEST DRIVE IT. YOU'RE IN MY PRAYERS!!
You could use heavy gauge romex like they use to wire buildings that’s what I use to power my 220 stick welder
Ok, now I have ebike envy! A lot of people knock a big hub motor, but they have a certain charm. For light off road and on road, that'll be a joy to ride
I would try removing the crappy aluminum heat sink that comes with the controller and use that box as the heat sink that would be sick!
maybe a better idea would be a two where drive road race bike.
the un sprung weigh would be equal between the rims and I think the grip you would gain would make the bike a cornering beast.
Can you use the aluminum frame with some thermal paste as a heat sink instead of a fan ? Maybe just cut a port for the cooling fins to hang outside of the frame with some sealant to keep the internals dry. Great job by the way, as always.
That dremel in the lathe 🤯👌
A second cord attached to your first one shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure you are using at least a #8 AWG (50 Amp rated) and preferably a #6 AWG ( 65 Amp) because of the extended length. Of course it all depends on the ultimate current draw . Glad to see you bought an extension cord though ! :)
It looks like the welder Chris has (he links it in the description) suggests a 50A breaker on a single phase 220V line and doesn't ever pull more than 40A continuously. At 100', even a 4 AWG cord will have a 10% voltage drop and only support 40A safely. I realize, that's a 24/7 rating for that size wire and welders wouldn't sustain that much current for long, so you could get away with thinner wire, but you'd want to watch things heating up when you're doing a lot of welding at once.
The voltage drop would be instantaneous though, if that's a factor (220-22=198V with 4 AWG, more drop with 6 AWG and thinner). The specs for the welder on the website state a required input voltage of 220V +/- 15%, so the acceptable low end would be 187V. He could measure the voltage at the connection between the second cord and the welder's cord easily with a multimeter (while welding on high settings), to make sure he's still in spec.
assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
@@Sev_Auk In my experience, the china welders tend to pull far less than advertised. I bet he's more like 30a 220v continuous with the welder maxed out. That's 6,600 watts. When he was plugged into the 110v outlet it was only 1,650 watts. That's figuring 110v/220v instead of 120v/240v
In any industrial setting I've been in; They put the welder close to the power connection, and extend the weld cables. I'm not a welder, don't know if this is some cost saving thing, or if there is less power loss in the lower voltage higher current welding cables.
Best of all comments
@@SteveEh That's by far less efficient (lower voltage/higher current vs. higher voltage/lower current), but logistically it makes the most sense because moving the welder around is a much bigger pain than dragging some cable.
you have enough space on the front to mount a radiator and use water cooling. Maybe drilling the heatsink and mount some fittings.
I had to do the same for my garage. Ran it in a pvc pipe and buried it 8 inches in the ground. I used 8 gauge wires and did like a dual 110v. Just bought the end from Lowe's. The whole thing was just under 200 bucks
Also ran cat 5 cable in the same pipe to have internet in the garage to. You have the advantage of a drive way running pretty close to the shed. Bury your pvc pipe right next to it so you never have to worry about hitting it should you ever need to dig on the property
Awesome build, it's coming out much better than I thought it was going to. I thought you were just going to slap all the parts in the donor bike frame.
This thing looks awesome, you really did an insane job of designing this frame. Loving the project and cannot wait for the next episode ! Thank you for the amazing content Chris
i think it would be a good idea to put a bolt through the aluminum axle mount, maybe help to keep it from spreading apart from the force of the axle trying to leverage it open
I think the build is coming along very nice Chris. Anxious to see the finished product.
You could remove the Heatsink of the Controller and Glue it with thermal epoxy to the inside of the Frame and the Mass of the Aluminium would soak up the Heat.
"Tip &Trick ... so your Argon lasts longer ... Always open the valve stem of the bottle 'all the way' & close it 'all the way', the valve assembly has seals on both sides of the valve body.
This is looking great, wish we were neighbors...I'd be all over your projects with'Ya! ...😎👍 159"
I love what you do. I so wanted you to completely bevel the components on the swing arm to get 100% weld penetration. Good luck with your solution addressing that matter. I hope it works out fine. All the best. 👍
Check if you can put in series 2 power cables, because there are some specs/limits that these power cords can handle. From what I saw, the cable on your soldering station is not so thick, so in theory it should work, but just for safely, just see if there's any instructions on that.
Look up the * Typhoon * its a high powered ebike that uses a hub motor BUT stripped down and mounted as a mid-drive. So you could strip down that wheel and make it a mid drive motor
No problem using two cords together. I work in mm2 for cable, it looks like 4 or 6mm2 cable which you can run 32-40A through no problem.
16:22 you live and learn. Fortunately, you're a smart cat. Each experience gets you closer to the final outcome. So it's not really that big of a deal if you remain within the limits of a rim motor.
Super talented fabricator especially for a man his age.
If you mount the controller on the inside of the bike make sure you find the side with the mosfets that heat up, then put that side against the inside wall of the chasis and add thermal paste for better heat transfer
That dirt bike looks sick
The frame looks awesome now that its on the wheels! Keep it up! Thanks for another great video
You could mount two poles over the roof of your work station and the garage, buy a long enough power cord and make a new socket, it would be away from the ground and a more permanent solution
Counter sunk Allen's as below suggested and also add to left side of "tank" to mirror or make another panel to even the look out.. rock on!
Always got to have a pre weld snack👍🏼
What I learned the hard way is that hub motors get hot quickly and cool down slowly
If you want the seat lower just get a aftermarket spring for the rear coil over. There cheap and you can find tons on ebay.
Air to waterHeat exchanger on the outside and a little one on the inside with a fan seems the best option to me. if it’s rigged up right it will self siphon and not require a pump
Though surely there’s a water cooled controller/battery that’s cheap
Yeah that rear wheel will bend warp your built frame, needs major strengthening mate. Good luck
I always wanted to try a dual hub motor build for some of the same issues you are talking about, I built a 3000w Hub Motor MTB and the wheel weight and the sky wheely when you jump the bike is what made me move to a mid drive ebike (Sur-Ron). With the Dual setup though, the weight could be more manageable plus two wheel drive for a bike would be fun/interesting.
It's looking good, can't wait for it to be finished. 👍
It’s looking sweet! I always learn something new that trick with the countersunk riv nut is awesome.
SOOOOOOO MUCH TALENT
I love these videos it’s literally my therapy
Dope machining and making that counter sink bit. Well done!
Go to a hardware store, Buy the correct wire for 240V AC under ground and Conduit and Wire a 240 outlet into the shed.
As long as you aren't going crazy at the motocross track, I don't think you will have problems with the hub weight.
NEVER CLICKED FASTER I HAVE TO SEE THIS THING GOOOOOOOOOOOO
That thing looks like it's going to be a beast
I think vent holes are important especially if you battery goes critical and starts off gassing. However, it kinda looks like your frame is built entirely out of an aluminum heat sink. You could always mount the hot components with thermal paste and even add cooling fins to the outside if needed. Keep up the good work!
You can buy aluminum rods for your stick welder also!!
25:02 you should round the edge of the fork tongue where the power cable meets it. It will otherwise rub through it.
That grinding grit will kill the ways of your lathe faster than you may think. Hope you cleaned them really well after.
You could possibly use a PC fan to pull air out using a reverse hood scoop design to go under the front of the seat and maybe put some vent holes towards the bottom with some kind of screen to prevent most debris and water.
Forget running a fan, think about replacing the heatsink with a solid block that contacts the inside of your frame cavity - - turn the whole frame into a heatsink!
Your craftsmanship and ability to machine parts as well as you do is impressive sir, I wish I had your talent as far as the machining and ability to operate the equipment. Keep at it dude it’s badass
The controller isn't going to get hot. I have mine mounted on the inside of my aluminum battery box with some thermal compound. The motor is another story. It will get hot. Order some statorade from Luna Cycle and that will transfer almost all the heat to the outer case rather than heating up the magnets causing damage. It's a super cheap investment.
SS buttonhead (allen) screws... you can polish them in a drill.
You know. Since you don’t have to worry about transmitting power from the center of the bike to the rear axle as you’re using a hub motor I wonder if this opens the possibility to other rear suspension types such as macphereson struts.
You could constrain movement along axis of freedom besides vertical with that. And not have to deal with the front and rear movement of the wheel as it goes along it’s arc of movement.
Suggestion if you need cooling: put fins on the chassis and affix peltier circuits to them to make the entire chassis a massive radiator [at least in places where it will not impede other things like your legs and moving parts of the bike] then put an armored frame around them with some mesh to keep them from being damaged if you run into stuff...
On the inside, you can then put a ducted fan assembly between the controller and the peltier circuit to ensure all the heat is flowing directly to the point it needs to go, which will ensure peak cooling of the controller.
This will allow heat flow through the highly thermally conductive aluminum while keeping the whole system dry.
The frame looks like it will buckle on your first landing. I would have used the old frame and boxed it in for the same look.
Getting there slowly but surely, mine took a couple months to make and I didn't build a frame. Hopefully the battery can supply the 200a the controller will demand.
A pinch bolt through each of the dropouts may help to keep them from spreading open, not sure. You got serious skills, that I know.
Nice! I have the same 30amp cable 75ft for my RV. I love it!
Allsome work from cruzermans inventions on you tube 😁🎉🌟👍🌟 looking good 😁👌
Hey Chris. Great build. I was so impressed that you used the stock KX frame to make all the mounting points match the stock frame. But you didn't use the stock frame for the top shock mount. Moving that point will drastically change the action of the rear suspension and the ride height in relation to the front end, which will effect handling. This is why your seat doesn't fit. The swing arm needs to be at a steeper angle and that will lower the top shock mount allowing the seat to work. Go back to the frame jig and put that top shock mount where it is on the stock KX frame.
Looks amazing rear.shoxk position looks a little crazy but you'll figure it out