Stu, I've been watching your channel for several years and find myself re-watching videos as I run into issues. If you ever get tired of working on boats, you've got the skills to be a teacher.
Lol Stu the look on your face when you were talking about the "new hole" in the deck...I know the feeling all to well. Great vids great channel by the way.
For a good sikaflex job I generally use a spray bottle with soapy water mix and paddle pop stick to scrap the excess off for a pro finish ;-) Another well explained video from Dangar
One thought. A lot of people in Canada use solar garden lights to mark driveways, garden paths and steps. I just installed a couple on my steps and driveway. They make great markers. I am surprised they are not used on docks down there. They make them for post caps and railings, some are very flush and robust. Love your videos. Thx.
Hi Dave, you do see them around on some wharves. As you say, you do need to pick the right ones though as some aren't anywhere near as robust as others. I also see them on moored boats so people can avoid hitting them at night.
That loom appears to be a standard Chinese auxiliary light loom sold by a lot of off road car places. They are fused for a pair of 100W Halogen globe spotlights, but the cabling is only good for 15A continuous if you are lucky. A 7.5A or 10A fuse is more appropriate for your use. But it is a good looking light that suits your boat, I like it. Again, a well done instructional video.
Thanks mate, that's an interesting insight into the loom and particularly the fuse that came with it. As someone else mentioned, you do the maths on the 60W rating and it is clear that it can be much lower.
love the video's all really good value to watch,love the green machine it's just what i expected a mechanic boat to look like lol.have you done a video on how to check your charging system on an outboard with and without a multimeter
Hey Tom, glad you like the vids (and the Green Machine!) I haven't done a video on charging systems yet but I am planning to do one very soon. Stay tuned!
I mustn't have shown it in this video but these wires are now inside a conduit to protect them from chaffing on the metal edge. You are right though, with all the vibrations boats get they wouldn't last long otherwise!
I live. In Maine, USA, i mounted a light on the cross bar of my center console windshield and found that it attracted so many insects at night they actually obscured my view and few even wound up in my mouth while motoring. I moved it to the port rail on my bow so i wasn’t having to look directly through the swarm of insects and no longer have to ingest them. May just be a Maine issue, our state bird is the mosquito after all.
I replaced my docking lots on an older pontoon boat I just got. It has a red and black wire coming from the battery to the lights then towards the fuse panel in the console. From the console, it has the older glass fuses. When wiring to a 3 wire switch, what wires go where? It has the red and black wires from battery to lights then towards console and another red straight wire from the fuse panel. THANKS
Im replacing my switch with a waterproof toggle for my boat (Yellow & Red wires) Thanks for that. Auxbeam is also sending me diffrent kinds of lights to make video reviews.
I had a different light manufacturer get in touch yesterday too. They must all be scrambling to get their products known at the moment. Good luck with your vids!
Great video ! Can you mount an Anchor Light on the Bar ? Also if you do not have a Radar you can mount a corner cube Radar Reflector on the Bar ! Then other boats may slow down to avoid you and looking for the Queen Mary... tjl
Hey Tim. You can mount an anchor light on the bar, but if you are using it as you all round white light while underway (just turning off your side lights when anchored) then you need to make sure it doesn't affect your night vision. Putting a disc of plywood underneath it to shield your eyes from the light can help there. Ha! Love the idea of the radar reflector. ;)
Hi Stu. Thanks for all your videos. I would never be able to do all I have Done to my boat engine without you help. Do you think you could do a video on how to install a permanent fuel-tank on a boat. Been looking at RUclips and could not find anything usefull ? Thanks Peter from Norway
Hi Peter. Glad you've been enjoying the vids. I've been thinking about doing one on making and installing a tank for some time now. Hopefully it won't be too much longer until I get it done, maybe after the Evrinrude is finished.
Great vid for a complete novice like me it was very informative, could you perhaps do another aimed at "boat light installation for dummies" I tried installing my light from an internet diagram the problem was it never mentioned wire gauge fuse size or a relay box mine burnt out in 2 seconds :( cheers
Thanks mate. Here are a couple of other video that might help you with your lights. ruclips.net/video/Juh4Y14CIlI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/p-Yup0OPofk/видео.html
Hi Stu. Whats the make and model of your dock light. Need one just like that. I use my boat on New Zealands Lakes. And need a light to enter the Jetties on the lakes. Many thanks. Peter Weatherill.
The LED light bar looks the business and works well! Do you have a cabin light as well? Some of those flexible LED light strips look ideal for use as a cabin light.
Hey Matthew. Yep, I do have a cabin light but I think those LED strips would have been a better option. My light is a bit too bright, particularly after driving around with your night vision. For now I'm thinking about fixing it with some red globe paint, but LED strips would be a really nice upgrade down the track.
Great videos, been watching a few this morning. When you try the LED strips, I highly recommend ip68 strips with the extra silicone sleeve over the top. If you need to trim them, you can trim them along the solder line which is usually every 3 LED's and is quite visible on the strip. After trimming, fill the exposed end with a cm or two of neutral cure silicone and whilst still wet put some glue-lined heatshrink over that and shrink it. Should seal it up really nice, we use it on xmas lights left out in the FNQ rain n humidity during summer and it goes well. The exposed PCB style LED strips with just the silicon molding over the top, glue on back tend to get corroded badly I find. If the strips are too bright, you can either trim them smaller, put some diffusing cloudy material over them or find a nice ip68 PWM-based dimmer. The same kind of dimmer will probably work on the LED based cree light bars if they are only using internal resistors to drop the voltage down from 12v for the individual LED's.
Another great video, thanks. I wasn't familiar with sikaflex before finding your channel, and went to research it, but there are a whole bunch of sealants under that name. What/which one do you use for marine sealing? Thanks. Rich E
Hey Dangar. I love your videos. lots of useful info. Especial for someone like me that can learn quickly, but don't know much right now. Anyway, what is the purpose of a relay? And if it is really needed, how do I wire it into my system. I bought a small light bar without the wiring harness and there were no instructions on how it should be wired. I also want it on my boat at night. I was going to wire it from the battery, to a switch and then the light bar.
Relays let you use a small current to control a larger current. Without a relay all the current to run the lights would be passing through the switch on the dash. This isn't necessarily a bad thing if the switch and all the wiring is rated for expected current draw.
Thanks for all of you help. You have made it easy to install what I need for my boat. This winter I will be following all of your Youtude videos and the advice that you gave me. I will tell you when I get my lights wired, my trim fixed and my slipping out of gear problem fixed. That is if I can figure it all out. Hopefully I can. Thanks again. Andy
hey Dangar. This is how I am thinking of wiring my solar panel and batteries and lights. From the solar panel to the charge controller. From the charge controller to the outboard motor battery. From the load side of the charge controller to the console and lights of the boat. The Trolling Motor battery is connected in parallel to the Outboard Motor battery. The Trolling Motor is connected to the Trolling motor battery. OR I was thinking about having the trolling motor battery at the front of the boat and running a wire from the charge controller to the front of the boat, and to the Trolling motor. What are your thoughts?????
Hi,my friend the link you put,dosen´t go direct to the same light bar you instal. Can you please tell me the corect one... Many thank´s Best regard´s Pedro Tavares
Hi Pedro, looks like they have discontinued that model, I would just have a poke around the Auxbeam website and see if there is anything else you like the sound of in the off road section. All the off road ones will be waterproof and rugged.
Yeah, I have one size that runs from the battery to the front distribution point and then a lighter gauge that I use for all the devices. They are sold as an amp rating (25amp for the main run and 10amp for the devices) Not sure of the diameter.
I wonder if you have (re)considered putting the low draw relay actuator circuit on the (switched?) 10amp board and just bringing the 30 amp fused lead from the positive post to pin 30? If your like me then maybe need a key off turns everything off function? Two years later I am just getting to all these videos, terrific content!
I do like the idea of a circuit that is only powered when the ignition is on. I did consider having a second positive bus so there would be one with permanent power for bilge pumps and anchor lights etc and one for things that were only needed when the boat was running.
The 21 gauge or 2.5 mm cable that you have run from the battery is good for 20 amps. it should be replaced with with 6 mm cable and a 40 amp fuse at the battery. At the positive terminal under the dash where the 6 mm cable is connected, connect the 30 amp fuse supplied then to the light via the switch. The negative for the light should go direct to the negative terminal under the dash where the 6 mm cables are connected. From that point you can put a 20 amp fuse to protect everything on the active link.By doing it this way you can have every thing running and everything protected and not blow the main fuse. Just a thought
Gonna do something like this myself Stu but was thinking of making a removable harness using anderson plugs with a plug going to switch and a plug going to light rather than drilling into my rocket launcher do you think this will work and where is the cheapest place to get a marine relay and how much are they cheers mate
Common USA marine and automotive practice is to use crimp connections and not use soldered due to vibrations. So please elaborate on why you use soldered. Also, why no grommets where the wiring passes through metal?
A properly soldered and heat shrinked/protected connection will always be better than crimp connections, especially for vibration.. no exceptions. If the connection needs to be disconnected always crimp then solder the connector. Not sure where you got crimps are common practice 🤔 i have never seen a boat or car come from the factory with crimp connectors other than the spade type, and those are usually crimped, then soldered..
good work, to be sure. but why not a light that is fully gimbled through a good range, with similar power, rather than the bar light, only movable vertically? also, why not some good reflectors--not all are ugly--on the dock, from all angles, etc.? such seem reasonable to me, but i'd like your comments, etc. thanks for all you do, etc.
I just bought from this company after watching this video. Well after it arrived I tested them and one didn't work. Got a hold of them for a warranty and I'm just getting the run around wasted money on something I thought would be good. Quality looked good to bad they don't work and the company doesn't stand behind their product.
Dangar Marine well it is what it is. I really was liking the housing quality too. Maybe they will come through but it's been a few days since the last email. On the plus side one works. Love your channel it has helped me work on my two outboards and saving me alot of money to use for fuel and be out on the water fishing.
Hey Dean. It is actually way brighter than I though it would be, you can pick out details from quite a distance, but it is a much more focused spot light than I was expecting which is what I think you notice on film.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the most informative boat channel on RUclips!
Thanks mate! :)
Stu, I've been watching your channel for several years and find myself re-watching videos as I run into issues. If you ever get tired of working on boats, you've got the skills to be a teacher.
Thanks mate!
Lol Stu the look on your face when you were talking about the "new hole" in the deck...I know the feeling all to well. Great vids great channel by the way.
Thanks mate. :)
Long gone are the days of trying to hold an shine the q-beam an steer the boat at the same time to light the way at night. Great video!!
Thanks Chris, yes, I feel quite posh with my new light. ;)
Brilliant tutorial Stu, has helped me loads with wiring lights onto my boat, thanks
you do one hell of a good job of explaining every thing
Thanks Trevor. :)
For a good sikaflex job I generally use a spray bottle with soapy water mix and paddle pop stick to scrap the excess off for a pro finish ;-) Another well explained video from Dangar
Yes, soapy water is very good for sikaflex. Who doesn't love a pro finish? ;)
Thanks Dangar, Very well details video, wish you can produce more videos. very best
Thanks mate, glad you liked it.
One thought. A lot of people in Canada use solar garden lights to mark driveways, garden paths and steps. I just installed a couple on my steps and driveway. They make great markers. I am surprised they are not used on docks down there. They make them for post caps and railings, some are very flush and robust. Love your videos. Thx.
Hi Dave, you do see them around on some wharves. As you say, you do need to pick the right ones though as some aren't anywhere near as robust as others. I also see them on moored boats so people can avoid hitting them at night.
That loom appears to be a standard Chinese auxiliary light loom sold by a lot of off road car places. They are fused for a pair of 100W Halogen globe spotlights, but the cabling is only good for 15A continuous if you are lucky. A 7.5A or 10A fuse is more appropriate for your use. But it is a good looking light that suits your boat, I like it. Again, a well done instructional video.
Thanks mate, that's an interesting insight into the loom and particularly the fuse that came with it. As someone else mentioned, you do the maths on the 60W rating and it is clear that it can be much lower.
Great video of a simple install with lots of information about the "whys". Awesome. Was wondering what you thought of relays on boats.
wow that led throws a lot of light. great video.
Thanks mate, glad you liked the vid. I'm really happy with the lights. I can't imagine not having them now.
love the video's all really good value to watch,love the green machine it's just what i expected a mechanic boat to look like lol.have you done a video on how to check your charging system on an outboard with and without a multimeter
Hey Tom, glad you like the vids (and the Green Machine!) I haven't done a video on charging systems yet but I am planning to do one very soon. Stay tuned!
As always, well done sir.
Great videos. I would consider grommets where the wires exit under the dash. If not you might get to see how well your fuses work!
I mustn't have shown it in this video but these wires are now inside a conduit to protect them from chaffing on the metal edge. You are right though, with all the vibrations boats get they wouldn't last long otherwise!
It was a surprise to see the light bar deliver a focused spot light.
I was quite surprised too. I guess each LED must be individually focussed.
I live. In Maine, USA, i mounted a light on the cross bar of my center console windshield and found that it attracted so many insects at night they actually obscured my view and few even wound up in my mouth while motoring. I moved it to the port rail on my bow so i wasn’t having to look directly through the swarm of insects and no longer have to ingest them. May just be a Maine issue, our state bird is the mosquito after all.
Looks good Stu!
Thanks Will, I'm really happy with them.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I replaced my docking lots on an older pontoon boat I just got. It has a red and black wire coming from the battery to the lights then towards the fuse panel in the console. From the console, it has the older glass fuses. When wiring to a 3 wire switch, what wires go where? It has the red and black wires from battery to lights then towards console and another red straight wire from the fuse panel. THANKS
Im replacing my switch with a waterproof toggle for my boat (Yellow & Red wires) Thanks for that. Auxbeam is also sending me diffrent kinds of lights to make video reviews.
I had a different light manufacturer get in touch yesterday too. They must all be scrambling to get their products known at the moment. Good luck with your vids!
Dangar Marine Thank you . I love your videos , I learn alot-Thanks
How do you learn all of Thai!
*this
RUclips. ;)
Great video ! Can you mount an Anchor Light on the Bar ? Also if you do not have a Radar you can mount a corner cube Radar Reflector on the Bar ! Then other boats may slow down to avoid you and looking for the Queen Mary... tjl
Hey Tim. You can mount an anchor light on the bar, but if you are using it as you all round white light while underway (just turning off your side lights when anchored) then you need to make sure it doesn't affect your night vision. Putting a disc of plywood underneath it to shield your eyes from the light can help there. Ha! Love the idea of the radar reflector. ;)
Nice work 👍🏼
Thanks Andy. :)
great video thank you
can you do one about putting in a fuel gauge please?
Thanks Zane. Yep, planning to install one in the Green Machine very soon.
+Dangar Marine awsome legendary
Is there a Marine Solder? That light should have had a swivel mount.
How many connections can you put on the two buss bar toggles??
Hi Stu. Thanks for all your videos. I would never be able to do all I have Done to my boat engine without you help. Do you think you could do a video on how to install a permanent fuel-tank on a boat. Been looking at RUclips and could not find anything usefull ?
Thanks
Peter from Norway
Hi Peter. Glad you've been enjoying the vids. I've been thinking about doing one on making and installing a tank for some time now. Hopefully it won't be too much longer until I get it done, maybe after the Evrinrude is finished.
Thanks Stu. Is there a Place i can donate a small amount to help you continue makeing your videos?
Great vid for a complete novice like me it was very informative, could you perhaps do another aimed at "boat light installation for dummies" I tried installing my light from an internet diagram the problem was it never mentioned wire gauge fuse size or a relay box mine burnt out in 2 seconds :( cheers
Thanks mate. Here are a couple of other video that might help you with your lights. ruclips.net/video/Juh4Y14CIlI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/p-Yup0OPofk/видео.html
Hi Stu. Whats the make and model of your dock light. Need one just like that. I use my boat on New Zealands Lakes. And need a light to enter the Jetties on the lakes.
Many thanks. Peter Weatherill.
It's an Auxbeam, link in the description.
I was wondering if you have a link to where you got those round bar holders please
I don't have a link, but I'm pretty sure I just got them off eBay.
The LED light bar looks the business and works well! Do you have a cabin light as well? Some of those flexible LED light strips look ideal for use as a cabin light.
Hey Matthew. Yep, I do have a cabin light but I think those LED strips would have been a better option. My light is a bit too bright, particularly after driving around with your night vision. For now I'm thinking about fixing it with some red globe paint, but LED strips would be a really nice upgrade down the track.
Great videos, been watching a few this morning. When you try the LED strips, I highly recommend ip68 strips with the extra silicone sleeve over the top. If you need to trim them, you can trim them along the solder line which is usually every 3 LED's and is quite visible on the strip. After trimming, fill the exposed end with a cm or two of neutral cure silicone and whilst still wet put some glue-lined heatshrink over that and shrink it. Should seal it up really nice, we use it on xmas lights left out in the FNQ rain n humidity during summer and it goes well. The exposed PCB style LED strips with just the silicon molding over the top, glue on back tend to get corroded badly I find.
If the strips are too bright, you can either trim them smaller, put some diffusing cloudy material over them or find a nice ip68 PWM-based dimmer. The same kind of dimmer will probably work on the LED based cree light bars if they are only using internal resistors to drop the voltage down from 12v for the individual LED's.
Enjoyed the video. Wondering if you are using tinned copper marine wire in the installation. Thanks.
Yes, using marine-grade wire is pretty important if it is going to last in a salt water environment.
Just curious why you use automotive style connectors and not epoxy seal connectors?
Another great video, thanks. I wasn't familiar with sikaflex before finding your channel, and went to research it, but there are a whole bunch of sealants under that name. What/which one do you use for marine sealing? Thanks.
Rich E
Thanks Rich, Sikaflex 291 is the one I use for boat repairs.
Hey Dangar. I love your videos. lots of useful info. Especial for someone like me that can learn quickly, but don't know much right now. Anyway, what is the purpose of a relay? And if it is really needed, how do I wire it into my system. I bought a small light bar without the wiring harness and there were no instructions on how it should be wired. I also want it on my boat at night. I was going to wire it from the battery, to a switch and then the light bar.
Relays let you use a small current to control a larger current. Without a relay all the current to run the lights would be passing through the switch on the dash. This isn't necessarily a bad thing if the switch and all the wiring is rated for expected current draw.
Thanks for all of you help. You have made it easy to install what I need for my boat. This winter I will be following all of your Youtude videos and the advice that you gave me.
I will tell you when I get my lights wired, my trim fixed and my slipping out of gear problem fixed. That is if I can figure it all out. Hopefully I can.
Thanks again.
Andy
It's always good to have some winter projects to keep you going until next summer. Good luck! :)
hey Dangar. This is how I am thinking of wiring my solar panel and batteries and lights.
From the solar panel to the charge controller. From the charge controller to the outboard motor battery. From the load side of the charge controller to the console and lights of the boat. The Trolling Motor battery is connected in parallel to the Outboard Motor battery. The Trolling Motor is connected to the Trolling motor battery. OR I was thinking about having the trolling motor battery at the front of the boat and running a wire from the charge controller to the front of the boat, and to the Trolling motor. What are your thoughts?????
Hi,my friend the link you put,dosen´t go direct to the same light bar you instal.
Can you please tell me the corect one...
Many thank´s
Best regard´s
Pedro Tavares
Hi Pedro, looks like they have discontinued that model, I would just have a poke around the Auxbeam website and see if there is anything else you like the sound of in the off road section. All the off road ones will be waterproof and rugged.
looks like the wire you use is pretty much the same size, regardless of the component you install. what size wire do you typically use?
Yeah, I have one size that runs from the battery to the front distribution point and then a lighter gauge that I use for all the devices. They are sold as an amp rating (25amp for the main run and 10amp for the devices) Not sure of the diameter.
@@DangarMarine thanks
Thanks again!!
I wonder if you have (re)considered putting the low draw relay actuator circuit on the (switched?) 10amp board and just bringing the 30 amp fused lead from the positive post to pin 30? If your like me then maybe need a key off turns everything off function? Two years later I am just getting to all these videos, terrific content!
I do like the idea of a circuit that is only powered when the ignition is on. I did consider having a second positive bus so there would be one with permanent power for bilge pumps and anchor lights etc and one for things that were only needed when the boat was running.
The 21 gauge or 2.5 mm cable that you have run from the battery is good for 20 amps. it should be replaced with with 6 mm cable and a 40 amp fuse at the battery. At the positive terminal under the dash where the 6 mm cable is connected, connect the 30 amp fuse supplied then to the light via the switch. The negative for the light should go direct to the negative terminal under the dash where the 6 mm cables are connected. From that point you can put a 20 amp fuse to protect everything on the active link.By doing it this way you can have every thing running and everything protected and not blow the main fuse. Just a thought
hello. Just started watching your videos. I'm impressed with your knowledge. I have a question. are you familiar with the Force outboard.
Hey Lonnie, I've seen a few around, they started out as Chrysler motors but I haven't ever worked on one.
Name of light and the bracket for mounting on rail
Please
Link in the description.
Hmmm where not seeing anything isn’t description under video ?
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Gonna do something like this myself Stu but was thinking of making a removable harness using anderson plugs with a plug going to switch and a plug going to light rather than drilling into my rocket launcher do you think this will work and where is the cheapest place to get a marine relay and how much are they cheers mate
Removable plug is a great way to go. I would be inclined to just use a cheap automotive relay and spray it with StrikeHold or something like that.
@@DangarMarine thanks mate much appreciated but never heard of strike hold is that a paint or something?
i like...
Good explanacion...
good Light...
hug.
Ponta Grossa city, Brasil.
Thanks Carlos, been enjoying the Olympics. :)
well illustrated
Thanks Darren, hope it was clear.
that's one helluva an ugly craft, mate. and i love it. wonderful video and incredibly helpful for my own projects.
Thanks mate, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. ;)
Would a transistor work instead of the relay?
There may be a transistor out there that is up to it, but generally transistors are for switching much lower current that this light unit draws.
xlnt as usual ! ;-) thanx
Common USA marine and automotive practice is to use crimp connections and not use soldered due to vibrations. So please elaborate on why you use soldered. Also, why no grommets where the wiring passes through metal?
A properly soldered and heat shrinked/protected connection will always be better than crimp connections, especially for vibration.. no exceptions. If the connection needs to be disconnected always crimp then solder the connector. Not sure where you got crimps are common practice 🤔 i have never seen a boat or car come from the factory with crimp connectors other than the spade type, and those are usually crimped, then soldered..
Great vid we call that a roll bar in Canada.
I'm always temped to call it a roll bar, but I'm not sure it would really serve that purpose on water. ;)
Hello Dangar Marine, I have a new video for you that i tried to tag w/Dangar marine. Also no PayPal? The video is on how do I rebuild a live well.
Hi Doug, I'll check on the video. Added PayPal link to the channel page now. ;)
Mate do you have a real boat shop or do you work on any thing?
We work on just about anything, but mostly cars.
Ah, the many uses of an RY 30 !
good work, to be sure. but why not a light that is fully gimbled through a good range, with similar power, rather than the bar light, only movable vertically? also, why not some good reflectors--not all are ugly--on the dock, from all angles, etc.? such seem reasonable to me, but i'd like your comments, etc. thanks for all you do, etc.
I just bought from this company after watching this video. Well after it arrived I tested them and one didn't work. Got a hold of them for a warranty and I'm just getting the run around wasted money on something I thought would be good. Quality looked good to bad they don't work and the company doesn't stand behind their product.
That's a shame. I've found this one to be very reliable, particularly given the boat lives it's whole life on salt water, never on a trailer.
Dangar Marine well it is what it is. I really was liking the housing quality too. Maybe they will come through but it's been a few days since the last email. On the plus side one works. Love your channel it has helped me work on my two outboards and saving me alot of money to use for fuel and be out on the water fishing.
it's not nearly as bright as I thought it would be
Hey Dean. It is actually way brighter than I though it would be, you can pick out details from quite a distance, but it is a much more focused spot light than I was expecting which is what I think you notice on film.
+Dangar Marine nice light and great job on the install