What's the car worth after these repairs? Head to keeps.com/legit for 50% off your first order of Keeps hair loss treatment! Click on this video ruclips.net/video/AWxAB-1DF9Y/видео.html and comment "Legit" to enter to win the $300 wash bucket kit!
You probably should have mentioned that the copper line you used was a brake line approved product and not plumbing copper line. Plumbing line will fail when used for brake lines.
Watch deboss garage 😂 some of the parts on his rigs get so rusty that I wouldn’t want them lol he says they are totally fine. I live in Washington so I know rust. But Canada is on another level.
My best guess is $5-6000 at the moment. Fully fixed up... $7-8000. Then again, as you say the used car market is super heated, so my numbers might be out to lunch (they sure have been for the last year). Normally I'd agree with your current thought that it might not be worth doing a bolt by bolt resto for a 4-door automatic three series from the 80's, but these care are getting rarer and rarer all the time and they where nice cars of the time - I do see that changing at some point.
I haven’t seen that water trick since the late 90s! Thanks for the reminder(s)! Same for pipe flaring, it has been a while that I haven’t done it. Just a FYI: in my region, you can’t use cupper pipes for hydraulic brake systems. It has to be steel. So please Guys, check your local regulations! Great car, awesome video, as always!
He's using Kunifer, or cupro-nickel that was designed for brake lines. It's cheap, forms easily and cannot rust. I'm in the UK, and nobody sells steel brake pipe suitable for making your own. Mostly because no one would buy it even if they could.
@@nickwheeler8231 It’s the total opposite here. I had to wait before replying to get in touch with the inspection center. I mean, I was pretty confident as I used to work there, doing inspections on cars and trucks, but laws do change. The products you’re referencing aren’t legal as 3rd party sells. If a car comes equipped with it, it would be different but they haven’t encountered one yet. You can’t go and swap steel bake line for something else just yet, where I live. Hence my comment: Check your local regulations!
I don't know if you read all these comments, but a few years ago I found out by accident that a product for cleaning catalytic converters, called Cataclean, did wonders for cleaning carbon out of intake manifolds. You might want to try that.
I would really like to see the note scope one more time after you add the gallon of water to it so see just how clean it gets! I think just do the majors and don’t do big body work and then sell it, that may be the most money you will raise cause it just isn’t the right spec to raise big coin👍🇨🇦
Vacuum bleeding is NOT the fastest way to bleed brakes, since you can only bleed one at a time. Pressure flushing is fastest because you can open all 4 bleeder screws and make it rain brake fluid, and it’s a lot quieter since it most flushers use a hand pump instead of shop air.
because the carbon comes off due mostly due to the temperature differential from dumping very cold water down the intake as fast as you can on a motor that's on the verge of overheating. Steam could work but it would take a very long time, e.g. you'd want to fit a water injection system on it that would be constantly feeding a little water in over years. For a one time deal tho the red-hot carbon just shatters into dust the when cold water hits it.
Use carbonated water for the engine cleaning, that works even better than regular water, The rear subframe bushings looks bad, when the subframe is almost sitting on the large lower washer, they are gone.. im a bmw tech from Denmark, and i took my mecanic degree from 1991-1995 at a bmw dealer so i worked on alot of E30😀 Love your videos😍
As a person that suffers from MS that means a great deal to me Alex. The MS society of Oregon has been a great help to me over the years with resources and transportation when I'm unable to drive myself. God bless you Alex!
i've done this before a bunch of times , next time you should try to use a spray bottle and spray the water directly to the throttle body while giving it a slight throttle , it doesnt die as much and works even better , its also impossible to hydrolock it this way and it seems that the water vaporizes even faster because its in a smaller volume. amazing videos as always cheers mate !
An old girlfriends father had me on the throttle of an old cutlass ciera as he poured water down the carb. All he said over and over was don’t let it die, don’t let let it die! Lol.
@@brianbrians3157 Since the engine is at temperature, if you spray a mister into it it'll turn the water into steam almost instantly - but I guess if you already have a steamer it would work to.
Yup, my Dad always used a cheap plastic spray bottle, just removed the air filler hose from the throttle body and went at it - worked a treat. Also he would mix in a small amount of isopropyl cleaning alcohol - I think around 15% but not 100% sure on that.
I'm your old school viewer you spoke of. I'm 71 and spent 40 years in the business. Yes the water bottle was always helpful to stop pinging. I used to be sure that the customer never watched. The crap blowing out the exhaust was what showed it worked.
My old mentor/neighbor was a mechanic for united airlines back when they used to have piston engines. He said in the test cells they could run water and lean out the fuel past where they could running just aviation gas and the engine would still run. He said when they took the engine apart they looked brand new as well. He actually engineered a water injection system on the Webber side drafts for his 240Z. Damn I miss that dude......
Use "Universal Solvent" AKA: distilled water. Tap water has a bunch of minerals and other crap in it like Chlorine. Distilled water REALLY wants to attach to things like carbon. Drinking distilled water is not recommended because it will strip minerals out of your system if used exclusively. I once repaired a dead laptop by tearing it down to it's individual pieces and soaking them in distilled water. It had a Coke spilled into it and then left in a drawer for two years. Worked like new after.
You are right on the distilled water. I was in the water biz for 20 years. It is ok for people to drink, but to your point it is very bland with no mineral profile. People with kidney issues drink distilled. On another note if a water company has spring water and the spring has issues, they can take distilled water and add the minerals to get the same mineral profile so the distilled tastes just like the spring water.
Just as a PSA, if you wash down a laptop or other electronic device, you should soak 'em in 99% IPA (isopropyl) afterwards to strip out the water. One of the chemical companies I use for IPA (3D printing uses a lot of it) told me that phone repair outfits are his biggest customers
Interesting.... I'm a watchmaker, and when we clean parts we use 3 cycles. We have an initial cleaning solution that we use for 10 minutes, then a distilled water rinse for 5 minutes, and then 99% IPA for 5 minutes. I'm going to experiment with just distilled water for the cleaning solution as well.
@@miscbits6399 true, and not for them only. I work (for hobby) on watch movements. Stuff like Rolex, Omega, JLC, Panerai etc. To service them you need to disassemble them completely, wash them with special watch degreaser agents (or you can just use strong car degreaser diluted in water) in a expensive machine (or by hand using a soft brush), pass them through ultrasonic cleaning machine, rinsing them and, very last and very important, pass the parts through isopropile alcohol to remove all water (and then let parts dry on lint-free paper and then reassemble everything putting microscopic amount of very specific oils and greases in the right places).
I've been a licensed mechanic since 1972 and we used water on all the old fogey's Buicks and Olds and Caddies since all they did was poke around in 'em and the carbon build up was something else. They would complain about the cars running on 20 minutes after they shut them off or pinging even on super. Before ripping them off for a complete tune up (unnecessary) we would do the old water drip treatment. You just have to watch you don't hydraulic it but these guys were on pensions and it saved them a lot of money and fixed the problem.
I guess I'm officially an old timer (48). Been using water injection for years. In fact, one of the best Meth injection systems you can buy is made by Aquamist. As you can surmise from the name, they started as a water injection company. It lowers IAT's, has the same effect as increasing octane and keeps the engine clean. It allows increased ignition timing and higher compression ratios. It was fist used in military aviation engines to boost power for dogfights. I recommend using distilled water to prevent leaving mineral residues in the engine.
Man, i thought it was some kinda joke, I've never imagined cleaning the engine from the inside with water, but a quick question, wouldn't that rust the engine from the inside over time?
@@MH3200 no rusting will occur, if the engine is up to operating temperature, the water will almost instantly turn to steam when it hits the cylinder. Any water left in the plastic intake or anywhere else will quickly evaporate due to the higher temps.
Usually when you get these cars they've been granny driven so much they're all carboned up so if you run a couple gallons of water thru, and you're water isn't super hard, there's really no reason to run distilled, providing the next person who owns it, and every successive person doesn't drive it like a granny too. This process is usually only a once in a life of the car type of process (where an enthusiast saves one from a granny and after that isn't afraid to put his foot into it once in a while).
One little trick I learned from a friend who is a mechanic and has done lots of brake lines is that he uses reusable/releasable cable tie wraps to hold the lines temporarily so he can continue bending across the vehicle and before final setting in place, meanwhile they don't fall and can continue to the end.
Alex, older generation checking in here- the “steam” approach has worked well on non-emission cars- literally blowing it all out of the tailpipe. For emissions cars with a catalytic converter, I have to wonder if that all carbon collects in the converter and eventually causes damage? Might need to be run the vehicle for a few hours to burn down the larger bits of carbon that won’t pass through the honeycombs. Keep up the good work- great to see someone working on a vehicle and showing how to address the everyday problems that we all run into- especially mid-west influenced issues.
To be honest I was cringing when alex was running the "copper" brake line. Please ensure you get approved brake line tube people. Also good tip is unroll the tube by holding the end on the ground and rolling out the whole roll along the ground in a straight line. (maybe hard to describe....)
How can 43 people already thumbs down this man or any of his videos??? Most wholesome and honest automotive channel on RUclips! You keep up the great work Alex!!!
Your valves have varnish on the stems and when the engine is cold is real gluey and when it's hot it gets more oily the valves of work perfectly fine when the engines hot but when it cools off the varnish gets hard and causes a spouse to stick open you need to run stuff through the fuel to clean all the varnish off the stems or they will continue to stick
Next time you should probably use distilled water, and a sprayer of some sort to atomize the droplets in the intake tract so it's easier on the engine.
This is why I like legit street cars because Alex picks hopeless European sports cars that no one would ever touch like bmws and Mercedes and seems to put some life back into them. Truly a miraculous thing that anyone can believe. Great show Alex, you know how to keep the show interesting especially with the content, huge fan
Not sure what your t alking about the 90 percent of the vehicles on the channel are highly collectable and pieces of history websites and forums based on them and people looking for one in any condition fact
I would think that the "stiction" of the valve is down to carbon deposits on the valve stem, not the valve seats. OK - so do you, Lol!! The steam-cleaning seems to be a genuine charm!!
if you use a smaller and longer vacuum line, you can set the engine speed on the linkage you can then dip the line in the jug of water and just listen to the engine speed change as it sucks water up. so like diip the pull out as the revs drop, pull out, repeat
@@BrainsofFrank nope... But works well for sucking water into your engine to clean the pistons without having balance throttle whilst pouring down a funnel 🤣
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they want to slow down all the gas station fuel pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.:-((
Something you may want to consider is that a water methanol injection system will do the same, lower exhaust gas temps, increase your octane and it's very simple system to install. Plus if you do a permanent install, it'll continuously clean your intake, valves and Pistons. And it won't cause the stumbling issue you get with straight water.
Some old style aircraft piston engines used exactly that setup for more power at take off. IIRC they called it a 'wet take off'? May have the terminology incorrect but the principle is the same.
This car is back from a time when BMW actually made a really great car. VS todays BMW's that are so grossly over designed, unreliable and costly to maintain.
Quit spending all that money and run a quart of ATF through the intake. We've tried all the other stuff but ATF works every time. If it don't you need a valve job. Great video as always. 😎👍👌
If you think you like the hood design now, wait until you have to remove it. Ingenious design, easiest hood ever to remove/install. Glad you got it going!
I've had PCV failure and it was sucking oil/fuel/water kind of foam from the engine cause I dont drive long enought, anyway one day i started the car up, and I saw a white smoke passing me by while I was waiting for the idle to come down. I shut it off right away check around nothing wrong. Started it back again no smoke... ok weird. Then leaving works same cloud again in rearview that was the moment "yeah something wrong" but the engine run fine, from time to time it came again... but i engaged the flood mode before during craking just to cleane cylinders. The next week end(obviously it happend on monday...) I warmed it up then apply more throttle than usual still run fine very slight white cloud hard to see, I floor it it ran fine for 2-3s then had misfires on multiple cylinder and the cloud came back again. I bore scope it on one of the cylinder there was a small pool of oil like 0.25ml not much but all pistons were clean and shiny af I had 188k km on it, I've borescoped it before when doing spark plug it wasn't bad thin layer over them. I had no blowby from the fill cap, no buble from the coolant so it was a good. I took the inake out, and saw oil residue from the pcv but nothing major, maybe a coat of oil on intake valve it's a port injection so should be dry. At that point i though was valve seal but all 12... weird put everything back still got the smoke on cold start... took the intake back when i move it away a stream of liquid came out like a garden hose!? cleaned the intake again put it back together and again the same smoke. The oil level didnt drop. Took the out the intake again and again full of that mixed liquid. then I pull the PCV hose from the valve cover to put a cheap catch can, nothing major, put everything again and did a 5km ride, the 500ml catch can was full. took evrything out lift the valve cover and the baffling was full of that milky mix. It was 2 years ago and car still run fine, jsut have to drive once a week about 50km to remove the water and twince a week during winter time
i have multiple sclerosis and so does my mother! that warms my heart!! thank you for bringing awareness and donating. your best bet is to manual swap it. that would add more value than anything else and isn't that hard especially with a lift brotha. more bmws plz!! e34 next!! e36? e24? so many classics that are amazing and you will naturally bring the value up reminding peepos how special these cars are.
Have been using the water trick since the late 80's - works fantastic, but the key is taking your time and running it in slowly. I usually do about a gallon.
You said "Copper" brake line several times, I know you meant "Copper-Nickel alloy Brake Line Tubing" because we both know pure Copper is not legal for use as a brake line in North America. The pure Copper lines can rapidly work harden and crack if it is subject to vibrations, like you would find bouncing down the highway under a car. I think you should clear that up so the people that don't know about Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing will know whats what.
Rust, RUST? You haven't seen anything until you see underneath a car from the UK. I actually think that the road department spray acid on the roads in winter!
@@t.alanblain6313 Sorry, Most of the US norther Midwest (Ohio, PA, WI, IL, MI) and certainly New York and Maine can make the road departments in the UK blush. The shear volume over time due to the long winters with lots of white fluffy stuff wins.
@@t.alanblain6313 I live in Estonia (in Tallinn) and it's the same over here. Tonnes and tonnes of salt are poured on the street every day during winter (which basically lasts half a year over here). Some cars rust away already in 10 years. The Mazdas of early to mid 2000s were especially bad (Mazda 3 and Mazda 6).
This is your "sweet spot", diagnosing and repairing cars we can own and maintain, the V12's are not what I would ever consider owning due to the insane engine out maintaining. The old Rolls is interesting because it is an old Rolls, but the restoration of daily drivers and old semi classics is very entertaining and informative, keep them coming!
Alex , I say keep it with an budget approach and let whoever's is looking for a good running E30 to enjoy and daily drive. That is a nice car to cruise all over.
The more I follow this series, the more I regret selling my 318is E30. Damn it man...🤬😂 Anyway, appreciate the content. Keep em comin! Happy Saturday! 🍫
Likely not but can't hurt to try. The water turns to steam in the combustion chamber. That steam does not really make it up to the into the intake but cleans the area that is exposed to the cumbistion chamber. The GDI's build up carbon further up in the intake.
You really should have been WAY MORE SPECIFIC when talking about the brake line you used. You just kept saying 'copper line' when you should have been saying 'copper-nickel' line. I can just picture someone going to Home Depot and grabbing some actual copper line from the plumbing section and making brake lines from it. Then when it fails, they will be all like: "But...but...Alex said to use this!"
JR Go did a full engine flush on a damero that was "needing a new engine". Made it run like a champ. Might want to consider that for this little thing, just to get all the bits of carbon out of it
I love the water treatment I've seen my father do it when I was a kid. That's one of the things that I love about your channel you show the before an after results. As far as this cats worth even though it is a four door. I think in the north where cars rot away and this being a really clean car you could get 3 to possibly 4 grand out of it depending on how much you can do with the paint and the rest of the body. I can't wait to see what comes next. Thanks again for the original content and stay safe.
Charlie Rosenbusch, your guess is way low on three to four thousand dollars for this for this E30. These are starting to go up in price because all of the two doors are so expensive now nice ones are bringing 8000 to$12,000.
$6K as it is now (with the RUclipsr bump), minted out 10-12 - as long as everything works, no cracks on the dash, rust repaired. I love a sedan, but the hot market is 5-Speed Coupes. Also make sure to not touch the radio, or if you do include it in the sale.
Try using an atomizer to feed water into the intake manifold, less chance of hydrolock, more controlled flow and the droplets helps the steaming process.
When I do the "steam cleaning" of an engine, I usually use a 2 gallon pump up yard sprayer. Stick the sprayer wand end into your vacuum leak/input port allowing for a little air leakage past the sprayer wand. Start the engine and wrap a ty-wrap or tape around the trigger of the yard sprayer. Don't forget to pump up the pressure every 5 minutes and when the sprayer tank is empty, so is the job!
When you use water you use the Hydrogen molecules in that water to brake up carbon deposits. I have used this method since ever and works great, specially on Carburated engines. But better spray it rather that pouring it and much better if you use distilled water.
Thats not exactly true its more the fact that H20 is a dipole with a positive and negative side. Saying its the hydrogen isn't quite right because the water molecule isnt being broken up at all. Its the same reason that its the universal solvent and its being helped out by the fact that its changing phase to steam which causes it to expand greatly as well as the physical action of it flowing through
I’m impressed. 605k subs, I’m pulling for you Alex, on to a mil. Just great content. You don’t know how much we all look forward to your new vids. Literally think during the work week about when your posting next. Funny to think 5 years ago, nobody knew you and now over 1/2 mil now do. Keep up the good work Alex….Charlie L.
I have a length of vinyl tubing that fits on a vacuum line blocked up with a ball inflation needle so you don't have as much of a rough idle, but it still sucks up and pretty well atomized the intake cleaner.
Be respectful of its semi-survivor status. Remember 🙏 not every E30 HAS to be a 2-door, M3, etc. The original owner specced it this way (by choice, presumably) and a new owner will want it because it IS specced as it is. I believe, in the future, it traditionally valuable hi-spec (perfectly preserved garage queen 2002tii?) will not be as appreciated or valued as real, everyday vehicles, used by real people. IMHO, that is! 🖖🙏🇨🇦
Alex love your work ....as for the water cleaning idea ...yes it has been around for eaons my Grandfather taught it to me 50 odd years ago but then they just called it a de-coke service. Been a mechanic for over 40 years and still learning ....never disregard any tips or hacks some are good some not so but all worthy of study....Shalom
The Sea Foam trick likely didn't work because it has a very low boil point (about 180 F). By the time it makes it into the combustion chamber on a hot engine, it has literally become vapor and has little effect on the carbon. It might be slightly more effective on a cold engine. Long term, adding an ounce of SF per gallon of gas to a few tanks of fuel at fill up is a slow but steady, and safe way to keep fuel systems clean and mitigate carbon build up. The aerosol version works great to clean throttle bodies before it's ingested, but that's it. As for adding it to the crank case to mitigate sludge, it is effective only when added to a cold engine, then let it dilute and flush through the system as it runs up to operating temp (about 10 minutes at idle) and then you immediately change the oil. By the time the car is at operating temp, the Sea Foam has all boiled off and vented out. This is a great wat to clean the crank case right before an oil change. The water trick is more effective because it effectively continues to be water droplets until combustion vaporizes it into steam, so wetness vaporized while in contact with the carbon is what breaks the carbon free. Hope this helps someone.
The E30 and it's predecessor were very simple to work on, even an engine upgrade from 316 to 323i was pretty straightforward. The body shells are the same and all of the holes and runs are there to be used in such an upgrade. Probably the last of the 'nuts and bolts' engineered 3 series before the plastic covers and weird electronics started to appear. Been running them for the past 35 years ... a joy.
Man I really enjoyed the E30 project....doing some of the same stuff this week on my 91 BMW 325i (E-30) ...Restore it...I just sold my 88 325is a few months ago for $22,500.00 of Bring a Trailer.
After you steam clean it more, you should do a valve adjustment! Those old M20 engines need them every 10-15k miles. Super easy job! Im sure SPCEuro has a kit. ;) Makes a HUGE difference!!! My old E28 really came alive after I did it.
FYI! Copper tubing requires more fastening points than steel, just so you know. I Am in fact 99.9% certain that this tubing is Cu-Ni - tube. Cu-Ni, or Copper-nickel alloy as they are called are suited for routing as the original steel tube!
Garden hose. Wide open throttle. Maintain about 3000rpm at W.O.T. using water. A 3lt engine at WOT @3000rpm consumes 1500x3lt of air per minute. NO WAY you can hydrolock it with a garden hose. They stall long before they drown.
So I have a quick question. I have a EU 2013 Civic 2.2 i-Dtec. It needs either the ACEA C2 or C3. I tried looking at the European Formula but couldn’t find proper one. Which oil should I use? I really want to try the Amsoil stuff.
Have you ever heard of RISLONE? When I worked on BMWs 100 years ago. An old Mercedes mechanic told me to substitute 1 quart of oil for 1 quart of Risland. Cleaned up scraper rings cleaned up valves and eliminated smoke from the tailpipe.
@LegitStreetCars ULINE NITRILE GLOVES S-15639L Large These gloves are awesome and rarely ever rip I used to use the black ones now we use these they are medical grade
You should pre-sell the car and explain that (a) the sale is not instant will happen after repairs, (b) whatever they paid will go to making the car run and look better, (c) pay more and get more work! Given the miles, it's not worth much. One recently Sold on Cars and bids for $6800, but it only had 55k miles! Maybe you should try Cars and Bids!
I'm all for charities and want them to be supported BUT. This car should not have been a charity car! This a E30! It's THE car. THE platform for ALL the hopes and dreams for car perfection! This should be a staple of the channel to make THAT car! So Bummed.
Two things - First, these old BMW engines (M10, M20, M30, others of the same vintage) really need heavier oil with lots of zinc additives. Rotella T4 15w-40 is a great choice and what I use, so is Valvoline VR1 20w-50. I'm sure Amsoil has a comparable option, too. Synthetic 5w-40 is really too thin for them and you'll get a lot of extra valvetrain noise, and while the rating on the oil is supposed to be good enough, they really just run better when you use heavier oil. I've had a few of them, and I'm speaking from experience on this. Second, a tip for running brake lines. I recently did both the main lines going to the rear of my e28. The way I did it was by taking the old lines out, being careful not to damage them too much. I dropped the exhaust off the car because it was easy enough to do, and undid a few bolts, but otherwise left everything in place. I then laid them out on the floor, and straightened, bent, and cut new copper-nickel lines to match them, put the fittings on and flared them, and then fished them up in the car that way. I did have to tweak them just a little in the process, but the results were fantastic, I have nice straight lines and near-factory bends, looks really professional. If you want a really good, professional looking job, I recommend it.
Before my 01 S2000 and 16 Fiesta ST, I had an 02 Ford Focus. A couple of years ago, I did rear drum brakes for the first time. I was unable to bleed the fluid since both of the bleed nipples were so rusty they rounded off immediately even thought I started with a six point socket. After hours of various "penetrating fluids," I found success with a blowtorch to get the nipple red-hot, and eventually it turned with some very large channel locks. I'd never used the good old "sparkle wrench" before, and considering what I was working with I thank the Car Gods for blessing my afternoon's efforts that day.
What's the car worth after these repairs? Head to keeps.com/legit for 50% off your first order of Keeps hair loss treatment!
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Legit
You probably should have mentioned that the copper line you used was a brake line approved product and not plumbing copper line. Plumbing line will fail when used for brake lines.
I don’t think it’s worth fully restoring with paint considering the mileage and auto trans, but def worth giving it TLC now that it’s running
Watch deboss garage 😂 some of the parts on his rigs get so rusty that I wouldn’t want them lol he says they are totally fine. I live in Washington so I know rust. But Canada is on another level.
My best guess is $5-6000 at the moment. Fully fixed up... $7-8000. Then again, as you say the used car market is super heated, so my numbers might be out to lunch (they sure have been for the last year). Normally I'd agree with your current thought that it might not be worth doing a bolt by bolt resto for a 4-door automatic three series from the 80's, but these care are getting rarer and rarer all the time and they where nice cars of the time - I do see that changing at some point.
Anyone who's opened an engine with a blown head gasket knows how clean that coolant gets the combustion chamber.
Yeah, been there.
Water is a great cleaner.
🤣 It hurts so bad
Yeah, I've heard a blown head gasket cleans an engine real well. If it weren't for that, I'd be a lot more surprised at how well this worked.
Sad but true
I haven’t seen that water trick since the late 90s! Thanks for the reminder(s)! Same for pipe flaring, it has been a while that I haven’t done it. Just a FYI: in my region, you can’t use cupper pipes for hydraulic brake systems. It has to be steel. So please Guys, check your local regulations! Great car, awesome video, as always!
He's using Kunifer, or cupro-nickel that was designed for brake lines. It's cheap, forms easily and cannot rust. I'm in the UK, and nobody sells steel brake pipe suitable for making your own. Mostly because no one would buy it even if they could.
@@nickwheeler8231 It’s the total opposite here. I had to wait before replying to get in touch with the inspection center. I mean, I was pretty confident as I used to work there, doing inspections on cars and trucks, but laws do change. The products you’re referencing aren’t legal as 3rd party sells. If a car comes equipped with it, it would be different but they haven’t encountered one yet. You can’t go and swap steel bake line for something else just yet, where I live. Hence my comment: Check your local regulations!
I don't know if you read all these comments, but a few years ago I found out by accident that a product for cleaning catalytic converters, called Cataclean, did wonders for cleaning carbon out of intake manifolds. You might want to try that.
I would really like to see the note scope one more time after you add the gallon of water to it so see just how clean it gets! I think just do the majors and don’t do big body work and then sell it, that may be the most money you will raise cause it just isn’t the right spec to raise big coin👍🇨🇦
Add a quarter tbsp of sodium bicarbonate and then spray. It's basically seafoam but better.
Would also love to see you swap Samcrac for a couple of days to get both of your opinions on your V12 cars! 👍🇨🇦
man i was shocked the steam cleaning worked lol
When is the final video on the Merc coming bruv?
Vacuum bleeding is NOT the fastest way to bleed brakes, since you can only bleed one at a time. Pressure flushing is fastest because you can open all 4 bleeder screws and make it rain brake fluid, and it’s a lot quieter since it most flushers use a hand pump instead of shop air.
Why not try letting the engine ingest steam directly rather than cold water poured in the intake? A great video channel just too many RUclips adverts.
because the carbon comes off due mostly due to the temperature differential from dumping very cold water down the intake as fast as you can on a motor that's on the verge of overheating.
Steam could work but it would take a very long time, e.g. you'd want to fit a water injection system on it that would be constantly feeding a little water in over years.
For a one time deal tho the red-hot carbon just shatters into dust the when cold water hits it.
Copper tubing is illegal to use for brake lines, I think. I assume he is using copper-nickel, which is legal.
Gorgeous car
Thought you may have needed valve springs for a moment.
Hi Aaron!
I tought so
Never thought you’d watch him glad u do
Hey Aaron ... I am a fan from kurdistan ❤️
Use carbonated water for the engine cleaning, that works even better than regular water,
The rear subframe bushings looks bad, when the subframe is almost sitting on the large lower washer, they are gone..
im a bmw tech from Denmark, and i took my mecanic degree from 1991-1995 at a bmw dealer so i worked on alot of E30😀
Love your videos😍
Hej Christian, du bliver nød til at se @M539 kanal. Han er igang med at istandsætte en E30
Listen to this guy he knows what he is talking about.
As a person that suffers from MS that means a great deal to me Alex. The MS society of Oregon has been a great help to me over the years with resources and transportation when I'm unable to drive myself. God bless you Alex!
I volunteered at the MSSP for years 🙏
i've done this before a bunch of times , next time you should try to use a spray bottle and spray the water directly to the throttle body while giving it a slight throttle , it doesnt die as much and works even better , its also impossible to hydrolock it this way and it seems that the water vaporizes even faster because its in a smaller volume.
amazing videos as always
cheers mate !
Exactly right it does work and I have done this a few times. I would also recommend using hot water in the spray bottle.
What about using a handheld steam cleaner?
An old girlfriends father had me on the throttle of an old cutlass ciera as he poured water down the carb. All he said over and over was don’t let it die, don’t let let it die! Lol.
@@brianbrians3157 Since the engine is at temperature, if you spray a mister into it it'll turn the water into steam almost instantly - but I guess if you already have a steamer it would work to.
Yup, my Dad always used a cheap plastic spray bottle, just removed the air filler hose from the throttle body and went at it - worked a treat. Also he would mix in a small amount of isopropyl cleaning alcohol - I think around 15% but not 100% sure on that.
I'm your old school viewer you spoke of. I'm 71 and spent 40 years in the business. Yes the water bottle was always helpful to stop pinging. I used to be sure that the customer never watched. The crap blowing out the exhaust was what showed it worked.
My old mentor/neighbor was a mechanic for united airlines back when they used to have piston engines. He said in the test cells they could run water and lean out the fuel past where they could running just aviation gas and the engine would still run. He said when they took the engine apart they looked brand new as well. He actually engineered a water injection system on the Webber side drafts for his 240Z.
Damn I miss that dude......
That’s pretty cool
Makes sense due to the expansion power of the steam coupled with the explosive power of the fuel.
What an interesting guy I wish I could have met him.
Nice Tribute to an old friend.
One of the bad parts about getting old, people leave us and we miss them.
Don't leaking head gaskets that leak into the cylinder, have the cleanest cylinders out the whole engine?
Yes
Use "Universal Solvent" AKA: distilled water. Tap water has a bunch of minerals and other crap in it like Chlorine. Distilled water REALLY wants to attach to things like carbon.
Drinking distilled water is not recommended because it will strip minerals out of your system if used exclusively.
I once repaired a dead laptop by tearing it down to it's individual pieces and soaking them in distilled water. It had a Coke spilled into it and then left in a drawer for two years. Worked like new after.
You are right on the distilled water. I was in the water biz for 20 years. It is ok for people to drink, but to your point it is very bland with no mineral profile. People with kidney issues drink distilled. On another note if a water company has spring water and the spring has issues, they can take distilled water and add the minerals to get the same mineral profile so the distilled tastes just like the spring water.
Just as a PSA, if you wash down a laptop or other electronic device, you should soak 'em in 99% IPA (isopropyl) afterwards to strip out the water.
One of the chemical companies I use for IPA (3D printing uses a lot of it) told me that phone repair outfits are his biggest customers
Interesting.... I'm a watchmaker, and when we clean parts we use 3 cycles. We have an initial cleaning solution that we use for 10 minutes, then a distilled water rinse for 5 minutes, and then 99% IPA for 5 minutes. I'm going to experiment with just distilled water for the cleaning solution as well.
@@miscbits6399 true, and not for them only. I work (for hobby) on watch movements. Stuff like Rolex, Omega, JLC, Panerai etc. To service them you need to disassemble them completely, wash them with special watch degreaser agents (or you can just use strong car degreaser diluted in water) in a expensive machine (or by hand using a soft brush), pass them through ultrasonic cleaning machine, rinsing them and, very last and very important, pass the parts through isopropile alcohol to remove all water (and then let parts dry on lint-free paper and then reassemble everything putting microscopic amount of very specific oils and greases in the right places).
but by the time it came out of storage it was an obsolete laptop?
I've been a licensed mechanic since 1972 and we used water on all the old fogey's Buicks and Olds and Caddies since all they did was poke around in 'em and the carbon build up was something else. They would complain about the cars running on 20 minutes after they shut them off or pinging even on super. Before ripping them off for a complete tune up (unnecessary) we would do the old water drip treatment. You just have to watch you don't hydraulic it but these guys were on pensions and it saved them a lot of money and fixed the problem.
I guess I'm officially an old timer (48). Been using water injection for years. In fact, one of the best Meth injection systems you can buy is made by Aquamist. As you can surmise from the name, they started as a water injection company. It lowers IAT's, has the same effect as increasing octane and keeps the engine clean. It allows increased ignition timing and higher compression ratios. It was fist used in military aviation engines to boost power for dogfights. I recommend using distilled water to prevent leaving mineral residues in the engine.
Man, i thought it was some kinda joke, I've never imagined cleaning the engine from the inside with water, but a quick question, wouldn't that rust the engine from the inside over time?
@@MH3200 no rusting will occur, if the engine is up to operating temperature, the water will almost instantly turn to steam when it hits the cylinder. Any water left in the plastic intake or anywhere else will quickly evaporate due to the higher temps.
Distilled water is the key. Agreed 100%
Usually when you get these cars they've been granny driven so much they're all carboned up so if you run a couple gallons of water thru, and you're water isn't super hard, there's really no reason to run distilled, providing the next person who owns it, and every successive person doesn't drive it like a granny too. This process is usually only a once in a life of the car type of process (where an enthusiast saves one from a granny and after that isn't afraid to put his foot into it once in a while).
@@VigilanceTech I was talking about water injection.... Use distilled.
One little trick I learned from a friend who is a mechanic and has done lots of brake lines is that he uses reusable/releasable cable tie wraps to hold the lines temporarily so he can continue bending across the vehicle and before final setting in place, meanwhile they don't fall and can continue to the end.
velcro straps FTW
@@miscbits6399 👍👍yes, that also will work, thanks
Alex, older generation checking in here- the “steam” approach has worked well on non-emission cars- literally blowing it all out of the tailpipe. For emissions cars with a catalytic converter, I have to wonder if that all carbon collects in the converter and eventually causes damage? Might need to be run the vehicle for a few hours to burn down the larger bits of carbon that won’t pass through the honeycombs. Keep up the good work- great to see someone working on a vehicle and showing how to address the everyday problems that we all run into- especially mid-west influenced issues.
Copper/ nickle lines =yes, pure copper line= NO.
To be honest I was cringing when alex was running the "copper" brake line. Please ensure you get approved brake line tube people. Also good tip is unroll the tube by holding the end on the ground and rolling out the whole roll along the ground in a straight line. (maybe hard to describe....)
Yes, nicopp lines are the way to go.
How can 43 people already thumbs down this man or any of his videos???
Most wholesome and honest automotive channel on RUclips!
You keep up the great work Alex!!!
Competition
1 year later and only 189 thumbs down now.....not a bad ratio ^_^
Clueless non-mechanical keyboard, "joystick" punchers...
Use distilled water that is heated that way it steams up quick. As long as you don't pour too much you'll be fine.
Your valves have varnish on the stems and when the engine is cold is real gluey and when it's hot it gets more oily the valves of work perfectly fine when the engines hot but when it cools off the varnish gets hard and causes a spouse to stick open you need to run stuff through the fuel to clean all the varnish off the stems or they will continue to stick
Cool, I've always wanted to see a real world result from water/steam cleaning the internals.
Next time you should probably use distilled water, and a sprayer of some sort to atomize the droplets in the intake tract so it's easier on the engine.
This is why I like legit street cars because Alex picks hopeless European sports cars that no one would ever touch like bmws and Mercedes and seems to put some life back into them. Truly a miraculous thing that anyone can believe.
Great show Alex, you know how to keep the show interesting especially with the content, huge fan
This bmw is highly sought after, it's a timeless classic
he truly is a master dealing with these cars - many mechanics can fix a late 90's early 2k Honda-
@@vojvoda-draza shhh, don't tell everyone
This 3 series was made before they became ‘hopeless’ but otherwise I also concur!
Not sure what your t alking about the 90 percent of the vehicles on the channel are highly collectable and pieces of history websites and forums based on them and people looking for one in any condition fact
Love your channel. You are an automotive mind and expert. Thank you for putting your wealth of experience for our viewing pleasure.
Seafoam: "We make the best carbon cleaning liquid". God: "LOL"
You are one of the best, thorough mechanics I’ve ever seen. Love the video.
I would think that the "stiction" of the valve is down to carbon deposits on the valve stem, not the valve seats.
OK - so do you, Lol!!
The steam-cleaning seems to be a genuine charm!!
Stiction is a great word and it's all ours.
@@reallyhappenings5597 The word is used very much in the machine tool world.
if you use a smaller and longer vacuum line, you can set the engine speed on the linkage you can then dip the line in the jug of water and just listen to the engine speed change as it sucks water up. so like diip the pull out as the revs drop, pull out, repeat
This does not work well for preventing babies......
@@BrainsofFrank nope... But works well for sucking water into your engine to clean the pistons without having balance throttle whilst pouring down a funnel 🤣
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025
on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas
station per city or county. Now they want to slow down all the gas station fuel
pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in
the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems,
turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and
New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be
done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of
crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.:-((
Something you may want to consider is that a water methanol injection system will do the same, lower exhaust gas temps, increase your octane and it's very simple system to install. Plus if you do a permanent install, it'll continuously clean your intake, valves and Pistons. And it won't cause the stumbling issue you get with straight water.
Some old style aircraft piston engines used exactly that setup for more power at take off. IIRC they called it a 'wet take off'? May have the terminology incorrect but the principle is the same.
This car is back from a time when BMW actually made a really great car. VS todays BMW's that are so grossly over designed, unreliable and costly to maintain.
Quit spending all that money and run a quart of ATF through the intake. We've tried all the other stuff but ATF works every time. If it don't you need a valve job.
Great video as always. 😎👍👌
That added caster M3 control arm bushing is god tier part for E30
If you think you like the hood design now, wait until you have to remove it. Ingenious design, easiest hood ever to remove/install. Glad you got it going!
Just make sure to mark the mount points before removing or else you'll have a rough time putting it back on and aligning
I've had PCV failure and it was sucking oil/fuel/water kind of foam from the engine cause I dont drive long enought, anyway one day i started the car up, and I saw a white smoke passing me by while I was waiting for the idle to come down. I shut it off right away check around nothing wrong. Started it back again no smoke... ok weird. Then leaving works same cloud again in rearview that was the moment "yeah something wrong" but the engine run fine, from time to time it came again... but i engaged the flood mode before during craking just to cleane cylinders. The next week end(obviously it happend on monday...) I warmed it up then apply more throttle than usual still run fine very slight white cloud hard to see, I floor it it ran fine for 2-3s then had misfires on multiple cylinder and the cloud came back again. I bore scope it on one of the cylinder there was a small pool of oil like 0.25ml not much but all pistons were clean and shiny af I had 188k km on it, I've borescoped it before when doing spark plug it wasn't bad thin layer over them. I had no blowby from the fill cap, no buble from the coolant so it was a good. I took the inake out, and saw oil residue from the pcv but nothing major, maybe a coat of oil on intake valve it's a port injection so should be dry. At that point i though was valve seal but all 12... weird put everything back still got the smoke on cold start... took the intake back when i move it away a stream of liquid came out like a garden hose!? cleaned the intake again put it back together and again the same smoke. The oil level didnt drop. Took the out the intake again and again full of that mixed liquid. then I pull the PCV hose from the valve cover to put a cheap catch can, nothing major, put everything again and did a 5km ride, the 500ml catch can was full. took evrything out lift the valve cover and the baffling was full of that milky mix. It was 2 years ago and car still run fine, jsut have to drive once a week about 50km to remove the water and twince a week during winter time
i have multiple sclerosis and so does my mother! that warms my heart!! thank you for bringing awareness and donating. your best bet is to manual swap it. that would add more value than anything else and isn't that hard especially with a lift brotha. more bmws plz!! e34 next!! e36? e24? so many classics that are amazing and you will naturally bring the value up reminding peepos how special these cars are.
Awesome video.
One question. Shouldn't you idle the car only, and not drive it with the engine flush?!!!
Have been using the water trick since the late 80's - works fantastic, but the key is taking your time and running it in slowly. I usually do about a gallon.
Never pray to car gods.
There is יהוה and none other.
You said "Copper" brake line several times, I know you meant "Copper-Nickel alloy Brake Line Tubing" because we both know pure Copper is not legal for use as a brake line in North America. The pure Copper lines can rapidly work harden and crack if it is subject to vibrations, like you would find bouncing down the highway under a car. I think you should clear that up so the people that don't know about Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing will know whats what.
Love seeing someone working on rust issues and showing how we deal with said issues in the Midwest. Love it!
Makes me grateful I don't live there anymore-
Rust, RUST? You haven't seen anything until you see underneath a car from the UK. I actually think that the road department spray acid on the roads in winter!
@@t.alanblain6313 Sorry, Most of the US norther Midwest (Ohio, PA, WI, IL, MI) and certainly New York and Maine can make the road departments in the UK blush. The shear volume over time due to the long winters with lots of white fluffy stuff wins.
@@michaelkrenzer3296 👍
@@t.alanblain6313 I live in Estonia (in Tallinn) and it's the same over here. Tonnes and tonnes of salt are poured on the street every day during winter (which basically lasts half a year over here). Some cars rust away already in 10 years. The Mazdas of early to mid 2000s were especially bad (Mazda 3 and Mazda 6).
I wish I was as good with the poker gods as you are with the car gods.
I remember that song from Dokken a while ago,
“Into the Fitting”
This is your "sweet spot", diagnosing and repairing cars we can own and maintain, the V12's are not what I would ever consider owning due to the insane engine out maintaining. The old Rolls is interesting because it is an old Rolls, but the restoration of daily drivers and old semi classics is very entertaining and informative, keep them coming!
Alex , I say keep it with an budget approach and let whoever's is looking for a good running E30 to enjoy and daily drive. That is a nice car to cruise all over.
The more I follow this series, the more I regret selling my 318is E30. Damn it man...🤬😂 Anyway, appreciate the content. Keep em comin! Happy Saturday! 🍫
The 318 was slow, slower than a Nissan Sentra.
The valves getting stuck could be due to the varnished gas, the varnish builds up on the valves and hangs them open
Would the water trick help clean GDI intake valves? I would love to see that boroscoped before/after.
Likely not but can't hurt to try. The water turns to steam in
the combustion chamber. That steam does not really make it up to the into the intake but cleans the area that is exposed to the cumbistion chamber. The GDI's build up carbon further up in the intake.
Makes sense - I wonder if the valve area is hot enough to create steam on contact. Maybe just point the output of a steamer into air intake?
Walnut blasting
@@TheDarkhorse82 This.
Depending on where the carbon is .
My wife’s jetta had carbon everywhere,even on the pistons .
And it was GDi.
You really should have been WAY MORE SPECIFIC when talking about the brake line you used. You just kept saying 'copper line' when you should have been saying 'copper-nickel' line. I can just picture someone going to Home Depot and grabbing some actual copper line from the plumbing section and making brake lines from it. Then when it fails, they will be all like: "But...but...Alex said to use this!"
Alex and Zach are this week’s Bubble Flare boys.
Isn't copper for brake lines frowned upon due to cracking?
JR Go did a full engine flush on a damero that was "needing a new engine". Made it run like a champ. Might want to consider that for this little thing, just to get all the bits of carbon out of it
It still needed a timing job
Dafaq is a damero
@@earlscheib7754 Camaro. He means Camaro
@@Maroco918 thanks. My keyboard is Fd up
🤔 its crazy using water in the engine never saw it before something new to me and im surprised it worked lol 😆
I love the water treatment I've seen my father do it when I was a kid. That's one of the things that I love about your channel you show the before an after results. As far as this cats worth even though it is a four door. I think in the north where cars rot away and this being a really clean car you could get 3 to possibly 4 grand out of it depending on how much you can do with the paint and the rest of the body. I can't wait to see what comes next. Thanks again for the original content and stay safe.
Charlie Rosenbusch, your guess is way low on three to four thousand dollars for this for this E30. These are starting to go up in price because all of the two doors are so expensive now nice ones are bringing 8000 to$12,000.
$6K as it is now (with the RUclipsr bump), minted out 10-12 - as long as everything works, no cracks on the dash, rust repaired. I love a sedan, but the hot market is 5-Speed Coupes. Also make sure to not touch the radio, or if you do include it in the sale.
Try using an atomizer to feed water into the intake manifold, less chance of hydrolock, more controlled flow and the droplets helps the steaming process.
Did you check to see if a new replacement line was available?
When I do the "steam cleaning" of an engine, I usually use a 2 gallon pump up yard sprayer. Stick the sprayer wand end into your vacuum leak/input port allowing for a little air leakage past the sprayer wand. Start the engine and wrap a ty-wrap or tape around the trigger of the yard sprayer. Don't forget to pump up the pressure every 5 minutes and when the sprayer tank is empty, so is the job!
if you have shop air, you could add a pressurisation port to the tank...
I'm waiting to see Keeps turn Alex into a werewolf just in time for Halloween. Just kidding. Keep up the great work on the E30.
This car needs one thing and that is making miles.
That the best solution😉
The engine just needs to run in normal use for a few weeks to free everything up
Thanks for supporting MS charities from a guy with MS paralyzed from the waist down.
I'm loving this project so far! More older car content! Cheers Alex !
When you use water you use the Hydrogen molecules in that water to brake up carbon deposits. I have used this method since ever and works great, specially on Carburated engines. But better spray it rather that pouring it and much better if you use distilled water.
Thats not exactly true its more the fact that H20 is a dipole with a positive and negative side. Saying its the hydrogen isn't quite right because the water molecule isnt being broken up at all. Its the same reason that its the universal solvent and its being helped out by the fact that its changing phase to steam which causes it to expand greatly as well as the physical action of it flowing through
I will enjoy in 12 months from now when you're still using Keeps and you have a 4 foot afro.
I’m impressed. 605k subs, I’m pulling for you Alex, on to a mil. Just great content. You don’t know how much we all look forward to your new vids. Literally think during the work week about when your posting next. Funny to think 5 years ago, nobody knew you and now over 1/2 mil now do. Keep up the good work Alex….Charlie L.
My God
I've been waiting for this episode for a long time
Alex!!
Why not hire a montage specialist and edit an episode every day
I have a length of vinyl tubing that fits on a vacuum line blocked up with a ball inflation needle so you don't have as much of a rough idle, but it still sucks up and pretty well atomized the intake cleaner.
My high school shop teacher taught us about using water to clean the carbon out of the cylinders. He used brake fluid first then water.
I concur that brake fluid then water works awesome.
Be respectful of its semi-survivor status. Remember 🙏 not every E30 HAS to be a 2-door, M3, etc. The original owner specced it this way (by choice, presumably) and a new owner will want it because it IS specced as it is. I believe, in the future, it traditionally valuable hi-spec (perfectly preserved garage queen 2002tii?) will not be as appreciated or valued as real, everyday vehicles, used by real people. IMHO, that is!
🖖🙏🇨🇦
Alex love your work ....as for the water cleaning idea ...yes it has been around for eaons my Grandfather taught it to me 50 odd years ago but then they just called it a de-coke service.
Been a mechanic for over 40 years and still learning ....never disregard any tips or hacks some are good some not so but all worthy of study....Shalom
This really needs a manual transmission
Seeing this car reminds me of my childhood
Proper term is flare nut wrench.
Are you going to be I know I'm seeing how we can win e13 BMW
How we can win that E30 BMW
What you called a 'Line Wrench' is actually called a 'Tubing Wrench'.
My aunt has MS really bad, so I very much appreciate you donating towards research in finding a cure/treatment ❤
The Sea Foam trick likely didn't work because it has a very low boil point (about 180 F). By the time it makes it into the combustion chamber on a hot engine, it has literally become vapor and has little effect on the carbon. It might be slightly more effective on a cold engine. Long term, adding an ounce of SF per gallon of gas to a few tanks of fuel at fill up is a slow but steady, and safe way to keep fuel systems clean and mitigate carbon build up. The aerosol version works great to clean throttle bodies before it's ingested, but that's it. As for adding it to the crank case to mitigate sludge, it is effective only when added to a cold engine, then let it dilute and flush through the system as it runs up to operating temp (about 10 minutes at idle) and then you immediately change the oil. By the time the car is at operating temp, the Sea Foam has all boiled off and vented out. This is a great wat to clean the crank case right before an oil change.
The water trick is more effective because it effectively continues to be water droplets until combustion vaporizes it into steam, so wetness vaporized while in contact with the carbon is what breaks the carbon free. Hope this helps someone.
The E30 and it's predecessor were very simple to work on, even an engine upgrade from 316 to 323i was pretty straightforward. The body shells are the same and all of the holes and runs are there to be used in such an upgrade.
Probably the last of the 'nuts and bolts' engineered 3 series before the plastic covers and weird electronics started to appear.
Been running them for the past 35 years ... a joy.
Alex although you said flare a few times you didn't say the most important flare...RIC FLAIR...WOOOOOOO!
Man I really enjoyed the E30 project....doing some of the same stuff this week on my 91 BMW 325i (E-30) ...Restore it...I just sold my 88 325is a few months ago for $22,500.00 of Bring a Trailer.
I assume Alex used Copper/Nickel Brake Line and NOT Copper tubing. Copper is too prone to work hardening and cracking from vibration.
After you steam clean it more, you should do a valve adjustment! Those old M20 engines need them every 10-15k miles. Super easy job! Im sure SPCEuro has a kit. ;) Makes a HUGE difference!!! My old E28 really came alive after I did it.
FYI!
Copper tubing requires more fastening points than steel, just so you know. I Am in fact 99.9% certain that this tubing is Cu-Ni - tube. Cu-Ni, or Copper-nickel alloy as they are called are suited for routing as the original steel tube!
Garden hose. Wide open throttle. Maintain about 3000rpm at W.O.T. using water.
A 3lt engine at WOT @3000rpm consumes 1500x3lt of air per minute. NO WAY you can hydrolock it with a garden hose. They stall long before they drown.
So I have a quick question. I have a EU 2013 Civic 2.2 i-Dtec. It needs either the ACEA C2 or C3. I tried looking at the European Formula but couldn’t find proper one. Which oil should I use? I really want to try the Amsoil stuff.
Have you ever heard of RISLONE? When I worked on BMWs 100 years ago. An old Mercedes mechanic told me to substitute 1 quart of oil for 1 quart of Risland. Cleaned up scraper rings cleaned up valves and eliminated smoke from the tailpipe.
@LegitStreetCars
ULINE NITRILE GLOVES
S-15639L Large
These gloves are awesome and rarely ever rip I used to use the black ones now we use these they are medical grade
You should pre-sell the car and explain that (a) the sale is not instant will happen after repairs, (b) whatever they paid will go to making the car run and look better, (c) pay more and get more work! Given the miles, it's not worth much. One recently Sold on Cars and bids for $6800, but it only had 55k miles! Maybe you should try Cars and Bids!
I'm all for charities and want them to be supported BUT. This car should not have been a charity car! This a E30! It's THE car. THE platform for ALL the hopes and dreams for car perfection! This should be a staple of the channel to make THAT car! So Bummed.
Two things - First, these old BMW engines (M10, M20, M30, others of the same vintage) really need heavier oil with lots of zinc additives. Rotella T4 15w-40 is a great choice and what I use, so is Valvoline VR1 20w-50. I'm sure Amsoil has a comparable option, too. Synthetic 5w-40 is really too thin for them and you'll get a lot of extra valvetrain noise, and while the rating on the oil is supposed to be good enough, they really just run better when you use heavier oil. I've had a few of them, and I'm speaking from experience on this.
Second, a tip for running brake lines. I recently did both the main lines going to the rear of my e28. The way I did it was by taking the old lines out, being careful not to damage them too much. I dropped the exhaust off the car because it was easy enough to do, and undid a few bolts, but otherwise left everything in place. I then laid them out on the floor, and straightened, bent, and cut new copper-nickel lines to match them, put the fittings on and flared them, and then fished them up in the car that way. I did have to tweak them just a little in the process, but the results were fantastic, I have nice straight lines and near-factory bends, looks really professional. If you want a really good, professional looking job, I recommend it.
Before my 01 S2000 and 16 Fiesta ST, I had an 02 Ford Focus. A couple of years ago, I did rear drum brakes for the first time. I was unable to bleed the fluid since both of the bleed nipples were so rusty they rounded off immediately even thought I started with a six point socket. After hours of various "penetrating fluids," I found success with a blowtorch to get the nipple red-hot, and eventually it turned with some very large channel locks. I'd never used the good old "sparkle wrench" before, and considering what I was working with I thank the Car Gods for blessing my afternoon's efforts that day.