Just wanted to say thank you! I have exactly the same board with exactly the same problem. Easily diagnosed thanks to this, and then fixed with a couple of components!
The boosting circuit is used for the power supply to make it working on 110 V & 220V without any intervention (automatic). It convert the rectified votltage about ~300V for 220V and 160V for 110V to 400V. The flyback converter will work with 400V in the entrance. When you eliminate the boosting circuit the flyback converter will receive only 300V and the control circuit for the flyback conveter will componsate the lack of voltage by increasing the wide of the pulse modulation (PWM). This solution work only for 220V. If you plug this TV on 110V it will not work because the flyback converter can't componsate the lack of voltage. The power consumption of the TV is the same with the boosting circuit working or not.
@@electronicsrepairschool What you mention in your response - Power factor - apply only for Alternative Current (AC) for equipements that work on AC like AC electrical motors, but boost converter is DC to DC CONVERTER
@@ahmedhacene9973 You are right and wrong. Right to says it will maybe not work anymore on 120V (110, 220? In what century you live? ;)) but that's maybe since this doesn't look like high power supply and it can probably work depending on capacitance of main capacitors. They don't look too big so let say you're right. But main reason this boost converter is here is (active) power factor correction. It must have it by EU regulation (which still apply to UK) and no, it's not used only for AC devices. For motors you will use something else, high value capacitors usually.
I'm sorry, i call that 'booster' because look like a booster on diagram but actually its just a wave shape changer, its not actually boosting anything, on the output you have same 450v caps like on any other tv without pfc circuit.
Celebration in the shop that the board didn’t blow up after a chronically improvised “with limited warranty” fix! Who needs a fuse anyway?! All that “extra” part does is complicate things, saving the fact that it can prevent a house fire! Best of all is the word “school” in the channel title, a place where you come to acquire deep knowledge to do things the correct way. Script for a great sitcom episode :) I actually learnt a few things as well! It is a great educational video. Thank you for sharing!
Glad to see you back, Sorin! Another great video! You should always remove drain and sourse pins from mosfet. And as Sorin did, always check for short after removing pins.
Tv techs here in the Philippines (Dan leal and Joey tech ph) uses 5 wires or 4 wires SMP kit that you can order from China to fix this kind of issue. You just nailed it by just cutting the middle pin of the mosfet. Lol. If the filter capacitor has 300v and no more shorts on primary side, I think this will work fine. Amazing dodgy technique Sorin!
Can you imagine Sorin as a brain surgeon disconnecting "unnecessary" parts of the brain? "I know the work is a little "dodgy" but I give a warranty on my work." Love it!! 😂😂👍👍
Hi, Sorin! You could explain also that that circuit (at least tryes to) correct the phase load on the power line (the so called: cos phi), in the hope to reduce the power consumption of the device. That's why you can open the circuit of that transistor without effecting the switching board. In fact you correctly say that after the TV will draw a bit of more current from the line, after the repair. And tha'ts true.
The power factor correction known as PFC circuit in the tv or generally in all the switch mode power supplies is not for correcting the cosinus for the main electricity circuit but corrects the power factor for the circuit of the power supply itself providing higher input voltage.This means less stress for the smps transistors,if they had to work with 310v having PFC work with 400v so the conducting time is significant lower.
@@electronicsrepairschool The term losses and power factor in the field of electronics has not always the same meaning as in field of the pure electricity and power distribution.The correction is about the factor of the power supply and not for the AC network.Why the older televisions did not have PFC circuit?Because smps frequencies and power consumption were very low compared to a modern tv power vs frequency,power consumption is about the same and the smps frequency is 10-20 times higher than this era.
Hello Sorin I have tab s2 that had problem with the IC POWER and I think there’s a shortage. Every shop I want too they will not want to deal with it I don’t know why. I’m beginner in electronic fields but I’m learning 👍
Ha ha the old power factor correction bypass :-D I have had one that had to be repaired (an old vestel designed set). The voltage is monitored, if it's not 400 volts it won't turn on.
you can't, in that case just replace mosfet (and probably diode if needed). Usually any 500-600V 5-10A part will do a job. If it already failed I'll put higher value one hopping it will last longer than original :)
why don't use lamp 220AC in serious connection with the board to protect you against any big short circuit or to indicate if any short circuit inside the board or not ? if the lamp lights up with a high glow , that leads there is a short circuit , if not means its ok.
The mosfet switches the coil in series with the rest of the TV to ground, as a reaction the coil will create a higher voltage. A coil wants to maintain current by increasing voltage when disconnected. If you cut the switch the coil will no longer increase the voltage supplied to the rest of the TV (because it's not switched to ground anymore), but that's mostly OK. The purpose of this circuit is to smooth out the current of the TV. Without it your bridge rectifier causes a current with lots of peeks.
Or simply put, it’s a Boost after rectification for PFC (power factor correction). Rectifiers consume a highly non-linear current which causes pollution on the grid. If everybody were to inject harmonics into the grid it would be a disaster. THD rate has to be kept as low as possible as per the standards.
Another "dodgy" repair, but expected. You are a magician Sorin. I wonder if this can be applied to doing surgery. Just cut out the unnecessary parts.The patient will still live. :->
@Electronics repair school I have an issue with this board. BN44 0623B. TV HAS standby light. But when powered on it clicks and goes Into some kind of power loop. I have disconnected backlights, lvds. No change in symptoms. When I power on and disconnect mainboard quickly. Symptoms are the same. But speed of clicking increases. I have tried replacing 2x 1uf 450v poly caps. I have tested every cap, diode and resistor. Led drivers are ok. I'm at lost with this board. Can you advise at all? Ps. Love your videos. Please carry on making them.
No expert but it sounds like when it's activating secondary power there is a short or over current protection kicking in. You may have to check LEDs to see how many have failed and are shorted
@@electronicsrepairschool Thank to everyone for responses. I have seen the video you mention Sorin. I have backlights disconnected but no change. I will continue to work on it. Thank you.
Hi Sorin, next time please consider replace mosfet and FUSE! even remove from old board, please consider if in house where is this tv will be fire maybe somebody lost life or insurance company start investigation and find your proper fuse, they probably bring you to the court. Replace this couple things is taking no more then 20 minutes. Please please because I like watching your videos, and dont forget insurances detectives also watching youtube. Stay safe
Sorin, you have not answered my question on whether you can use the injection of current (brutal force) as you call it to identify a short in TV mother board.
In power supply board? You can but why should you? These boards are not too complicated and it's easy to isolate problem to one part (he just show it here in this video any I'm sure many others and you need to do that anyway to know where to apply current) and then there you usually have one or two things which can be problematic (mosfet & diode) and both are easy to check without applying any current to circuit. One high voltage side anything other than this two will usually be visible burned (probably exploded :)) so you don't need any help to figure it out what to replace.
Most of the time it’s the hot side failing. Injecting voltage isn’t a option. Trace the short with a DMM. Mosfet, rectifier or gate drive chips are failing most of the time. Use a isolation transformer for working live and current limiter (bulb in series) to check if it works.
12:58 lol..... tell christian never grab a tv like that again. the main AC and the rectified DC are touching his belly. plus, there is a huge possibility to break the lcd
sorin that's mean a transformer for 12V AND 24V can work Only with 300V bacause the because you disable bust convert section so we don't need a bust convert section to make 400V
hai sir, im in the philippines, what will happen the cercuit and the mosfet, why are u cutting the middle of pin of the mosfet, what is the effect of the tv, without conected the midle pin of mosfet on the board. it is working..
I was confused at first. How can you disable part of the circuit that has the short and then the power supply will still work? Then I realised that the part you disabled, was for power factor correction only. It is not vital for the supply. I've got it. I think?
It switches the coil in series with the rest of the TV to ground, as a reaction the coil will create a higher voltage. If you cut the switch the coil will no longer increase the voltage supplied to the rest of the TV (because it's not switched to ground anymore), but that's mostly OK. The purpose is to smooth out the current of the TV. Without it your bridge rectifier causes a current with lots of peeks.
Type "EEVblog #273 - Power Factor Correction with the MC34262" in RUclips search bar and watch the video and you can also download datasheet of the chip that Dave talks about. The reason why there is no short when Sorin check on capacitor is because there is diode at the end of booster, before filter capacitor, so if we put red probe on plus of cap and black probe on the negative terminal of cap, diode will be inversely biased so no current will flow, so there will no be short. If there is short when probing on capacitor, it must be after the cap (can not be booster MOSFET because diode is inversely biased and will not conduct), and usually only thing that can be shorted is switching MOSFET (this MOSFET is not part of booster circuit but cames after booster and cap).
Hi Sorin, I have bin trying to fix a tv, ue46d7005, that only starts sometimes. Now when it has bin hot weather it starts without a problem. I have narrowed the problem down to the power supply and one of the electrolytical capacitors going to the backlight measures 280V and it is rated for 150V. Im afraid that if I change that capacitor I have not really solved the issue because what is inputing high voltage there i dont know. When the tv does not start it bootloops and I can see that one of the sectors of backlight does not work and its connected to the curquit with the same capacitor that measures high voltage. The capacitor visually looks fine. Best regards, Christoffer
how many bucks u safed for the costumers?? and for your employer? cutting a pin or use "proper calibrated fuses", this is the russian style of fixing electronics...
@Paul Sanderson the booster part of the suppy is required ony if the power supply is supplied with 120 v as in the USA .. not in the case where the supply is 240v so after disabling the booster ... the TV will not work if it is taken to US but it will work fine where the mains is 240V the above explanation is from one of the previous videos of Sorin ...
Mr of “OK”🤣. Hello my friend ok ! To day i have a power supply, ok ! My mouse is veri quite, ok ! And ok is ok ! Ok ? And ok & ok & ok ! Ok ? Good job. Ok ! The master of OK. 🤣🤣🥴🥴 But i like you and subscribe your channel because you are good teacher. Good job man and have good day👏🏽👏🏽
if you change the mosfet that's mean we lost the interesting part in your video , because not all the time we can find all spare part easily and sometime you need to wait long time . Please i want to ask you to show me how to open lossy screw, i have one screw on my screen i couldn't open it since a month ..
We have 120 60hz, ///Yall have 50hz 220. pfc not so needed you still get 270 on the caps. we get like 165 on the caps unless it's a Seiki then we get 99 volts and the mossy runs way hot. So we add a new main cap and all is well.
the booster part of the suppy is required ony if the power supply is supplied with 120 v as in the USA .. not in the case where the supply is 240v so after disabling the booster ... the TV will not work if it is taken to US but it will work fine where the mains is 240V the above explanation is from one of the previous videos of Sorin ...
so you mean, this method is work only if the ac source is 120v? and it works? what will happen if this method, applied in 220v source ac, it is work or not..thanks
Great video, just repaired my faulty TV. Thanks
Just wanted to say thank you! I have exactly the same board with exactly the same problem. Easily diagnosed thanks to this, and then fixed with a couple of components!
The best thing in your videos is your simplicity in everything, Thanks for sharing your experience. 🌹
*"We need a proper calibrated 4 Amps fuse!"*
grabs a wire :D
ha ha ha
:D
lol
Sorin as a direct replacement for the Russian cosmonaut 👩🚀 on the movie Armageddon ☄️…
The boosting circuit is used for the power supply to make it working on 110 V & 220V without any intervention (automatic). It convert the rectified votltage about ~300V for 220V and 160V for 110V to 400V. The flyback converter will work with 400V in the entrance. When you eliminate the boosting circuit the flyback converter will receive only 300V and the control circuit for the flyback conveter will componsate the lack of voltage by increasing the wide of the pulse modulation (PWM). This solution work only for 220V. If you plug this TV on 110V it will not work because the flyback converter can't componsate the lack of voltage. The power consumption of the TV is the same with the boosting circuit working or not.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor
@@electronicsrepairschool
What you mention in your response - Power factor - apply only for Alternative Current (AC) for equipements that work on AC like AC electrical motors, but boost converter is DC to DC CONVERTER
@@ahmedhacene9973 You are right and wrong. Right to says it will maybe not work anymore on 120V (110, 220? In what century you live? ;)) but that's maybe since this doesn't look like high power supply and it can probably work depending on capacitance of main capacitors. They don't look too big so let say you're right.
But main reason this boost converter is here is (active) power factor correction. It must have it by EU regulation (which still apply to UK) and no, it's not used only for AC devices. For motors you will use something else, high value capacitors usually.
I'm sorry, i call that 'booster' because look like a booster on diagram but actually its just a wave shape changer, its not actually boosting anything, on the output you have same 450v caps like on any other tv without pfc circuit.
@@electronicsrepairschool Sorin, I love your "Proper calibrated fuses!". You are a genius !
The practicality of a man who works to eat in a very pure form. An artist of what works. Bravo.
its like when you disable a bomb, you can say bomb on a video, lol brillant.
😂😂😂😂
FBI wants to know your location
"This is just a "short" video."
Indeed.
Celebration in the shop that the board didn’t blow up after a chronically improvised “with limited warranty” fix! Who needs a fuse anyway?! All that “extra” part does is complicate things, saving the fact that it can prevent a house fire! Best of all is the word “school” in the channel title, a place where you come to acquire deep knowledge to do things the correct way. Script for a great sitcom episode :) I actually learnt a few things as well! It is a great educational video. Thank you for sharing!
Glad to see you back, Sorin! Another great video!
You should always remove drain and sourse pins from mosfet. And as Sorin did, always check for short after removing pins.
Tv techs here in the Philippines (Dan leal and Joey tech ph) uses 5 wires or 4 wires SMP kit that you can order from China to fix this kind of issue. You just nailed it by just cutting the middle pin of the mosfet. Lol. If the filter capacitor has 300v and no more shorts on primary side, I think this will work fine. Amazing dodgy technique Sorin!
That glue is a silicon it’s supposed to stop vibrations affecting connections
The problem with this one iiiiiiiisssss......it's not working!
Well I'll be damned, didn't expect that at all :D
Its a technical term lol
Good job master
Can you imagine Sorin as a brain surgeon disconnecting "unnecessary" parts of the brain? "I know the work is a little "dodgy" but I give a warranty on my work." Love it!! 😂😂👍👍
Another fantastic video! Keep those tv repairs videos coming - They are just great
Hi, Sorin! You could explain also that that circuit (at least tryes to) correct the phase load on the power line (the so called: cos phi), in the hope to reduce the power consumption of the device. That's why you can open the circuit of that transistor without effecting the switching board. In fact you correctly say that after the TV will draw a bit of more current from the line, after the repair. And tha'ts true.
This kinda glue is used to increase to insulation between the pins of mosfet to reduce the chance of arc-over between pins :)
and as insurance that TV will not last too long and you will buy another one since over time it become conductive and kill power supply :D
When Christian picked up that thin TV by its edges, I died a little.
The power factor correction known as PFC circuit in the tv or generally in all the switch mode power supplies is not for correcting the cosinus for the main electricity circuit but corrects the power factor for the circuit of the power supply itself providing higher input voltage.This means less stress for the smps transistors,if they had to work with 310v having PFC work with 400v so the conducting time is significant lower.
Not really en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor
@@electronicsrepairschool The term losses and power factor in the field of electronics has not always the same meaning as in field of the pure electricity and power distribution.The correction is about the factor of the power supply and not for the AC network.Why the older televisions did not have PFC circuit?Because smps frequencies and power consumption were very low compared to a modern tv power vs frequency,power consumption is about the same and the smps frequency is 10-20 times higher than this era.
Outside in London we have short
Thanks for the vid, any idea why Samsung tv keeps burning the power supply board, I have changed it twice and burned them all?
Hello Sorin I have tab s2 that had problem with the IC POWER and I think there’s a shortage. Every shop I want too they will not want to deal with it I don’t know why. I’m beginner in electronic fields but I’m learning 👍
Hello Sir , very nice to share
Ha ha the old power factor correction bypass :-D
I have had one that had to be repaired (an old vestel designed set).
The voltage is monitored, if it's not 400 volts it won't turn on.
Hi, great videos! What microscope/camera do you use?
Hi. Is there any resources that show us how these TV power supplies working?
So if your TV is a 110 in USA, is the only option to replace MOSFET?
12:33 you sacrifice your coworker 😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
Good job
How can I cancel the booster if it had a communication with power supply
Or feedback
you can't, in that case just replace mosfet (and probably diode if needed). Usually any 500-600V 5-10A part will do a job. If it already failed I'll put higher value one hopping it will last longer than original :)
why don't use lamp 220AC in serious connection with the board to protect you against any big short circuit or to indicate if any short circuit inside the board or not ? if the lamp lights up with a high glow , that leads there is a short circuit , if not means its ok.
I have one board almost the same model but its that chip near the mosfet that is burning hot, ill try replace it cause i dont have shorts
Sorin I remember you saying that you were not going to do any doggy work in this 2020 year. What's going on here!!!
how can we be sure where to cut the board ? What is a chopper ?
Sorin is hilarious.
The mosfet switches the coil in series with the rest of the TV to ground, as a reaction the coil will create a higher voltage. A coil wants to maintain current by increasing voltage when disconnected. If you cut the switch the coil will no longer increase the voltage supplied to the rest of the TV (because it's not switched to ground anymore), but that's mostly OK. The purpose of this circuit is to smooth out the current of the TV. Without it your bridge rectifier causes a current with lots of peeks.
Or simply put, it’s a Boost after rectification for PFC (power factor correction). Rectifiers consume a highly non-linear current which causes pollution on the grid. If everybody were to inject harmonics into the grid it would be a disaster. THD rate has to be kept as low as possible as per the standards.
hello sir can u show ur shop all
There is "dodgy" and there is a Sorin type of "dodgy" :)
and there is Diode Gone Wild type of Dodgy !!!:)
Another "dodgy" repair, but expected. You are a magician Sorin. I wonder if this can be applied to doing surgery. Just cut out the unnecessary parts.The patient will still live. :->
... that ringtone sounds like an impatient wife.
an impatient italian wife! :D
@Electronics repair school
I have an issue with this board. BN44 0623B. TV HAS standby light. But when powered on it clicks and goes Into some kind of power loop. I have disconnected backlights, lvds. No change in symptoms.
When I power on and disconnect mainboard quickly. Symptoms are the same. But speed of clicking increases.
I have tried replacing 2x 1uf 450v poly caps. I have tested every cap, diode and resistor. Led drivers are ok. I'm at lost with this board.
Can you advise at all?
Ps. Love your videos. Please carry on making them.
No expert but it sounds like when it's activating secondary power there is a short or over current protection kicking in. You may have to check LEDs to see how many have failed and are shorted
i'm sure i have a video with this board and clicking issue, have a look on my old videos
@@electronicsrepairschool Thank to everyone for responses. I have seen the video you mention Sorin. I have backlights disconnected but no change. I will continue to work on it.
Thank you.
Praise be to Sorin. It was the damn backlights....
thank you M.r
you do like electro boom :P
Hi Sorin, next time please consider replace mosfet and FUSE! even remove from old board, please consider if in house where is this tv will be fire maybe somebody lost life or insurance company start investigation and find your proper fuse, they probably bring you to the court. Replace this couple things is taking no more then 20 minutes. Please please because I like watching your videos, and dont forget insurances detectives also watching youtube. Stay safe
Hello Sorin 👋👋👋👋
Please consider showing how the Mac is repaired - the one which you kept aside when you took up the TV board.
Sorin, you have not answered my question on whether you can use the injection of current (brutal force) as you call it to identify a short in TV mother board.
In power supply board? You can but why should you? These boards are not too complicated and it's easy to isolate problem to one part (he just show it here in this video any I'm sure many others and you need to do that anyway to know where to apply current) and then there you usually have one or two things which can be problematic (mosfet & diode) and both are easy to check without applying any current to circuit. One high voltage side anything other than this two will usually be visible burned (probably exploded :)) so you don't need any help to figure it out what to replace.
Most of the time it’s the hot side failing. Injecting voltage isn’t a option. Trace the short with a DMM. Mosfet, rectifier or gate drive chips are failing most of the time.
Use a isolation transformer for working live and current limiter (bulb in series) to check if it works.
@@gorky_vk Upravo tako. Jednoslojna stampa, 10-ak komponenti...Nadje se kvar za 2 min.
Brilliant man on tech Reapir
I instantly put Like just by reading the title!
what pin in a mosfet did u cut?
Either source or drain its the fet that's short so cutting either pin will clear the short
It must be the Drain, the equivalent of Collector in bipolar transistor
What am not sure is, how to tell that there is no communication between the booster and the other side
@@markkalembelembe323 the transistor is shorted ie the drain and source are connected internally so cutting either will clear the short
@@T2D.SteveArcs Its Drain Pin
thank you sir
12:58 lol..... tell christian never grab a tv like that again. the main AC and the rectified DC are touching his belly. plus, there is a huge possibility to break the lcd
sorin that's mean a transformer for 12V AND 24V can work Only with 300V bacause the because you disable bust convert section so we don't need a bust convert section to make 400V
With 240V voltage on caps will be around 340V which is more than enough for normal operation of power supply.
hai sir, im in the philippines, what will happen the cercuit and the mosfet, why are u cutting the middle of pin of the mosfet, what is the effect of the tv, without conected the midle pin of mosfet on the board. it is working..
I believe it's the power factor correction circuit...tries to make the TV more power efficient....so I guess it will use a little bit more power.
@@Catstorm99 it is working for 120v only? or what about 220v, it is working too?
@@Catstorm99 more power but not if you ask power meter (at least not yet)
did you ever tested if you 4amp wire-fuse really bows at this current? xD
It just has to be blow before the cord or other components melt. And this thin wire will melt before that happens.
Amazing
Cu respect, o adresa de e-mail ? As avea nevoie de cateva sfaturi despre un TV LG 50LA620V-ZA, multumesc anticipat!
I love when he says zero zero LOL
7:30 i agree your principles
I was confused at first. How can you disable part of the circuit that has the short and then the power supply will still work? Then I realised that the part you disabled, was for power factor correction only. It is not vital for the supply. I've got it. I think?
It switches the coil in series with the rest of the TV to ground, as a reaction the coil will create a higher voltage. If you cut the switch the coil will no longer increase the voltage supplied to the rest of the TV (because it's not switched to ground anymore), but that's mostly OK. The purpose is to smooth out the current of the TV. Without it your bridge rectifier causes a current with lots of peeks.
If u see the circuit is complicated then return it to the basic functions so u will see it simple
Sorin you have to set up a small electrolytic cap to explode on Christian lmfao.
If 30 is mad hot, come to Kuwait , we have already passed 45 degree C. :)
Not for all the oil in no wait lol
Is it 30 inside though? we don't generally have air conditioning in the UK :-(
Great tip :)
Ok now!
Can anybody supply a link to a full description of this so called booster part. As Newman says in Seinfeld, I want to learn, I want to know why.
Type "EEVblog #273 - Power Factor Correction with the MC34262" in RUclips search bar and watch the video and you can also download datasheet of the chip that Dave talks about.
The reason why there is no short when Sorin check on capacitor is because there is diode at the end of booster, before filter capacitor, so if we put red probe on plus of cap and black probe on the negative terminal of cap, diode will be inversely biased so no current will flow, so there will no be short. If there is short when probing on capacitor, it must be after the cap (can not be booster MOSFET because diode is inversely biased and will not conduct), and usually only thing that can be shorted is switching MOSFET (this MOSFET is not part of booster circuit but cames after booster and cap).
Why low res???
Try now. Take some time to yt render video all res.
come to besiktaş sorin!!!
Hello 👋
Hi christian brave boy
12:38 lol
Hi Sorin,
I have bin trying to fix a tv, ue46d7005, that only starts sometimes. Now when it has bin hot weather it starts without a problem. I have narrowed the problem down to the power supply and one of the electrolytical capacitors going to the backlight measures 280V and it is rated for 150V. Im afraid that if I change that capacitor I have not really solved the issue because what is inputing high voltage there i dont know. When the tv does not start it bootloops and I can see that one of the sectors of backlight does not work and its connected to the curquit with the same capacitor that measures high voltage. The capacitor visually looks fine.
Best regards,
Christoffer
You did cut the wire right on time 1second left😂
@622.... I get the drift:-)
This is a wind up... right ?
diode mode:)
30 degree is considered pleasant in india
could we say b-0-m-b in a video ? 😂
Its MAD HOT here to 🥵 Don't cut the Green wire 💣BOOM to late
lol
👍
Thanks
PFC not working all the time
TV one Cool..
That board looks like a old school projection tv power supply.
Calibrated Fuse lmao
how many bucks u safed for the costumers?? and for your employer? cutting a pin or use "proper calibrated fuses", this is the russian style of fixing electronics...
Have you been to Russia ?
💙
No stream !!! What happend??
NOOO IT'S NOT "O.K" TO SAY BOOOOMB !
The bet your signature looks dodgy too :) Nice fix.
At this moment, I am getting”NO Stream” notice. Looks like something happened. Other channels playing fine. FYI
Why not replace the mosfet ? Is it too long or is it too hot outside ? 😂
@Paul Sanderson the booster part of the suppy is required ony if the power supply is supplied with 120 v as in the USA .. not in the case where the supply is 240v so after disabling the booster ... the TV will not work if it is taken to US but it will work fine where the mains is 240V
the above explanation is from one of the previous videos of Sorin ...
Mr of “OK”🤣.
Hello my friend ok !
To day i have a power supply, ok !
My mouse is veri quite, ok !
And ok is ok ! Ok ?
And ok & ok & ok ! Ok ?
Good job. Ok !
The master of OK. 🤣🤣🥴🥴
But i like you and subscribe your channel because you are good teacher.
Good job man and have good day👏🏽👏🏽
The best way to repair hh
if you change the mosfet that's mean we lost the interesting part in your video , because not all the time we can find all spare part easily and sometime you need to wait long time . Please
i want to ask you to show me how to open lossy screw, i have one screw on my screen i couldn't open it since a month ..
amazing dogy repaiar
Ahhhh the old out with the Boost converter in with the Capicator Farm.. Qwack Qwack Ha Ha We don't need no PFC round here. Ha HA
We have 120 60hz, ///Yall have 50hz 220. pfc not so needed you still get 270 on the caps. we get like 165 on the caps unless it's a Seiki then we get 99 volts and the mossy runs way hot. So we add a new main cap and all is well.
Shame on fool who put the power correction circuit on that tv board!
No stream message. It’s totally Borked
Well, can you leave a signature for me? :-)
I don't get it this one 🤔
the booster part of the suppy is required ony if the power supply is supplied with 120 v as in the USA .. not in the case where the supply is 240v so after disabling the booster ... the TV will not work if it is taken to US but it will work fine where the mains is 240V
the above explanation is from one of the previous videos of Sorin ...
@@protonx80 I never new that ,and what a waste of components if the TV is made for Europe
true apart from the fact that it then makes more prone to failure too ... more components .. more chances to fail :)
@@protonx80🙏 sir pls which of his videos did he explain it?
so you mean, this method is work only if the ac source is 120v? and it works? what will happen if this method, applied in 220v source ac, it is work or not..thanks
#ICANFIX