What Engine Oil Is Right For You - Standard VS Racing Oil?? Jay's Tech Tip
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- In todays video, Jay breaks down the differences between racing oil and conventional oil. There is a lot to cover in this topic so we broke down the video into sections. You can use the timestamp below to check out what you want to see.
0:00 - How oil works
3:20 - Conventional oil vs Racing oil
7:10 - Break-in oil
8:15 - Oil weight
9:48 - What oil should you use or what oil weight?
10:27 - Conclusion
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The wisdom this Jay guys spews out of his mouth. Greatness.
Thanks Mitch
@@realstreetperformance thank you for this info! I have a newly rebuilt OEM 2JZ GTE 500WHP single turbo on 93 octane. What would you recommend for oil ?
@@realstreetperformance One should oblige every enthusiast to watch this video. Too many ignorant people gamble on what is right!
grtz
All of this is widely known info to anybody who understands engines, how they're built, how to build them with particular parts, etc.
You all should be so luck to have this dude, Jay, sharing this with you.
Invaluable if you ask me!
@@realstreetperformance It's agent "J"
Jay’s that uncle with the bad ass car and shop willing to spoil (you) his nieces and nephew in all things fast and automotive lol
Thank you for all great videos be safe and keep boosting
Thanks Leon you too
Love the detailed explanations!!! Thanks
Thanks for watching Ken
Real fantastic explanation.
Brilliant explanation and very informative.. Always learning new stuff while watching your videos
Just the video i needed to see, had some questions in my head and they were answered. Thx again Jay
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help
Thank you sir for share all the tips! Really enjoy this channel!
Thanks for watching
Jay always has the best info in a tight convenient and fluid package!
Thanks for the support!
Thnx so much for that Jay. Atleast i know ive been going with the right type of oil in my car all the years and thats why its lasting
No disrespect to any other youtuber, but this man has all the hands on experience needed.
Wonderful information Jay!! Long time fan!!Thanks for taking the time out to make videos and informing us of very valuable information. Keep up the great work!!!
Thank you for commenting!
I use Mobile 1 AFS 0W-40 in my 10th gen si. Thank you for this knowledgeable content!
This explanation is fantastic. Just keep in mind what you’re trying to achieve. If max horsepower is your main concern go for a lighter viscosity, but just be mindful that everything will wear much faster. High ZDDP isn’t the be all and end all - it’s great for protecting cams and gears, but comes at the cost of increased friction as the surface roughness of an anti wear film is higher than machined surfaces. One other thing - racing oils tend to be some of the few oils that are still truly 100% synthetic. PAO molecules have lower traction coefficients than even the most highly refined Group 3 mineral oils, helping to lower the internal friction. Also, not all PAOs are equal! mPAO has lower traction than cPAO!
Thanks for adding to the conversation!
Keep this in mind chief...this is agent "J"'s channel and you can keep your "think you know better" comments to a discrete knucklehead forum. He is not speaking on the arm chair. He lives it and as such "knows" what he is talking about. Not guessing, or educatedly guessing. "IF" you trolls would shut your pie holes, you may actually learn something...even if its how now to be a twatwaffle. (look it up)
@@tedhollister5814 Did you check out the guys chanel who you are ragging on??? He is a lubrication engineer. I think maybe it is your pie hole that is stuck wide open Ted
@@tedhollister5814 Maybe you should read and learn something about the commenter before you open your trap. He's an engineer that worked for ExxonMobil for quite a while.
@@chrisbradley3224 Oh, the humanity! Guess I'll stay in the truck... when I think of pao, its kung pao [and a cold beer].
I've only just begun to go down this rabbit hole of oil testing & standards, and complexities abound.
Thank you Jay; shedding knowledge into the aftermarket world, using engineering concepts and terms.
I appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching
Awesome vid, I watch every single one. You guys always answer questions well when we reach out. Can you make a vid on how to store blocks prior to install. Some of us work in steps, and we dont want to ruin block before we can even play with it.
Great video Guys. Thanks for the tips Jay
Thanks Pedro!
Thanks I like your input 😊
Thank you very much Jay for your time to share your knowledge about mechanisms of the engine running. Like it a lot most of your videos. Love and peace from Timor Leste
Thanks for the support we appreciate it!
Could listen to Jay talk all day.
Many thanks to you man 👍🏻
Thanks Jay!
Thank YOU for watching
I always enjoy Jay's knowledge bombs, keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for joining the convo Drake
Awesome as always.
Thanks for the support
Man, I love these videos. So informative and easy to understand as a non native English speaker and not an expert with engines. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it
Brilliant vid guys so simple but very helpful 👍
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching
I bought pistons and rods from you guys for my stroker 3sgte celica alltrac build and wanted to say thank you. 💯
Man that’s awesome. Thanks for joining the conversation Tom
Very informative.
Thanks Jay for all your god Tech Tip videos.
Thanks for the support
Really made me think about this, such good information. Thanks fellas, another insane video for the car world
Thanks Cody
I love that you guys are doing educational videos now
Thanks for watching! We have a lot more videos like this, feel free to browse our channel and check them out. We have a series called “tech tips” and other videos that are helpful and free.
@@realstreetperformance made a stupid decision of buying a 04 forester 5MT 257 swap blew up right away. Here I am two years later just about to get the engine in the car
Awesome info jay ! , something that is easily overlooked by many
Thanks for joining the conversation Julian
Great Video, Informative, Appreciated. Keep It Up.
Thanks Bjorn
Awesome content!
Thank you
This channel need more followers jay always got good info 🙏
Thanks Tyson. Help us out with a share!?
Never thought about the bearing clearances being one of the reasons why race engines use such thick oil. Super cool info.
Thanks for the feedback Alex
If you want your 2j too run great listen to Jay. Actually any engine because he's a Master Builder.💯🌟😎🏁🏁🏁
Thank you! I appreciate your support
Useful tips. Thank you sir 😊😁
Thanks for watching Adrian
great general overview.. was surprised that you didn't go into the fact that alot of 'dedicated' race oils lack the detergent package or TBM number present in PCMO
Great info!
Send it papi!
Fancy seeing you hear buddy 🤙🏼🇺🇸🏎
Hello Jay, you should consider on doing a podcast. Your recent videos explaining stuff is packed with knowledge. Hope you wouldn’t get tired on feeding people information! Much love from P.I.!
Hey Dell. If you go back through our channel, I started these types of videos around 2011. I haven’t gotten tired of it. But there have been gaps of inactivity when I get busy at work. The hardest part is making the time to maintain a steady posting schedule. Lately we added some great people to the team and have been able to maintain a listing schedule of every Friday. I enjoy it
great stuff
Summed up well. Only thing I would add is maybe explain the relationship of pressure and flow. Many people seem to confuse the two specifically when oil pumps and changing oil weight are being considered.
Fantastic information! If there was ever a chance to become an apprentice, no matter the years or experience in the industry, it would be a honor to be mentored by Jay and Real Street team!
Thank you for the kind words Rick
Living Legend !!!!
Good stuff. 👏 👏👏
Thanks for watching Randall
Thanks for u knowledge ..
Thanks for watching
Jay's tech tips are the best always learn something watching these videos
Thank you James
i agree my friend james is right. I have a corolla tsport (2zzge engine 192hp 1.800cc and 8,350rpm) and some people had a problem with intake camshaft wear, Toyota recommends 5w30 oil, but the most people, like me, use 5w40 or 5w50, I use liqui moly molygen 5w40 because it also has anti-friction, what do you recommend for this engine if you want to tell me? the use is not on a track and extreme temperatures continuously but I often reach 8,350rpm.
Yes sir, Shell T4 or T5 FTW I use it in all my cars.
Don't be cheap use T6 😉
Yeah great video, very informative.i'm running a 2.0 tfsi vag turbo engine with stock clearances but with stronger valvesprings, the engine is running around double the horsepower on a hybrid turbo setup, on 5w30 i am thinking of switching to 5w40 which is still a stock viscosity for my engine, it's just switching from longlife to regular synthetic, so i think i will be good, never had any issues on the 5w30 but on cold start the valvetrain makes a bit of noise, not much but i rather be safe than sorry sonce i am running a rather expensive stage 1 cnc ported cilinderhead wich i don't want to brick in the long run, and also my high pressure fuel pump is driven off the camshaft so my best bet is up the viscosity for that longevity.👍
Awesome ! Video
Thanks Caleb!
Yes 100% correct. So stock engine turbo B58 stage2 should use 0w30.
Been useing Millers CFS 10w50 NT+ TRIPLE ester race oil for years, in a high hp Evo, no oil consumption, oil changed atleast twice a year. Best stuff i've ever used. Millers oils is made in the uk.
Awsome content and explained well. All parts need to work together more than ever with as easy as hp is to make these days
Thanks for joining the conversation Nathan
Great info beside the K series oil weight for the good Ks. It’ll be 5w 30.
I liked this video. Me personally, I use mobil 1 Full synthetic oil. And a quart of Valvoline VR 10w30. My 2003 Cadillac CTS has gutted catts. Not worried about their safety
Thanks for joining the conversation
LET'S GO...Jay....🏁
LETS GO CRAIG!
Thanks for not having a massive intro - great videos
Yes sir. Thanks for the feedback
Jay is the best
Thank you 🙏🏻
amazing
Very useful
Thanks Chris
20/50 all the way👍
Thanks heaps 👍🏻
Thanks for interacting Stuart!
@@realstreetperformance just about to start building my race engine, so thinking about oil cane just in n time! :)
You confirmed I should be running racing oil.
Glad I could help Tim
Royal purple
In my race engine 2.2L f20b I run Motul 300v 5w40 ester. I used to run Amsoil z-rod 10w30 high zinc race oil but it kept breaking down after a session of track usage. The 300v of what I seen so far resist alot against e85 and it lasted me for afew tracks days before changing. I do have also a infinite oil filter and I always open it and check for particulates. Best oil I've seen in over 20 years. Motul is my #1 for me.
How have you been verifying the oil is breaking down? How do you know when its done?
@@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions I run e85 or M1 in my race engine. Because of my ring gap @.022" top ring and .024" secondary ring i do get alot of blow by. I check my oil at a local lab that tests all types of oil. They told me because if the fueling I'm running the base oil Amsoil is breaking down faster vs the Motul. The base oil property in Amsoil is what breaks done the fastest not the additives. So I was replacing my engine oil almost every track event. With motul I replace my oil every 1500 miles or so. Depending on how hard and hot was the day and driving.
Your videos are really informative!
Have a built b18c1 with ACL extra oil clearance bearings, S2 PRO1 cams, supertech head package with dual springs and titanium retainers etc.
Should we run vr1 20w50 or 10W40? In Northeast PA.
Good video.
Thank you!
Good video. Been using valevoline VR1 in all the engines I build. Appears to be a good race oil.
Just switched to vr1 in my 12 mustang 3.7. It's the only oil I have ever used where my dyno was consistently 5-6hp higher. My tuner asked did I change air filter or something. I know I sound crazy but 6800-7800rpm I can feel engine feels smother. I prefer it over ansoil,redline,ect..
@@simbanugz2906 have been using it for years and have sent oil samples out on motors that have used it, these motors see 6-7hp per cubic in 4cylinders.
Have a good day everyone
You too!
Thank you for your insight and time explaining Tech Tips. My question is: at what horsepower is it a good idea to change from a wet oil sump to dry oild sump?
Basically, when the wet sump system can't keep up from G forces is when id switch.
It’s amazing to know that this level of experience and expertise from a company exists locally to me. Its also amazing to know that I can can up Real Street and have people that know what there’re talking about answer these important questions. Thank you Jay and Real Street for these videos. It definitely opens up the floor for the right conversations surrounding building and managing modern street and race engines. 🤘🏼
Good video. My Red sport calls out for 0w20, but we find that these VR30’s tend to burn some oil quite a bit.
After some Blackstone lab analysis the viscosity is far from 0w20. I’ve now chosen to use 0w30 for the same cold start protection and the 30 weight helps with the viscosity break down especially with the heat here in Florida and the abuse my FBO engine gets at the track.
Thanks For joining the conversation
did you notice any less oil consumption when you changed viscosity?
wow really know your stuff
Thanks mr.c
Jay I’m putting gte pistons into a ge and I’m wondering what ring gap and rod to crank tolerance should it be? Thanks.
im in Adelaide South Australia, every jz i build is 20w50 due to climate
Awesome
Thanks for watching Andre
Jay i know you mainly a 2j guy but can you maybe do a video on the bmw s65 and s85 engine that normally runs rod bearings. Too much mis information on this and if you help this community at to what makes them prone to bearing failure. Is it oil or tolerances or improper warm up. Your knowledge will help alot of us
Solid question: The oil weight explanation makes complete sense to me... So why do some aftermarket parts manufacturers recommend heavier weights on OE bearings if you have certain upgrades? Example, I have a 2020 F150 with a 2.9 Whipple. Only internal upgrade is billet oil pump gears... OE oil weight is 5w20, Whipple recommends going to 5w50... any insight?
one of my main bearing is 0.020 mm , 0.0008 inch clearance, which little bit on the limit and I worry that it will too tight
I have a 2zzge engine 1.8 and its vortec v2 procharged with high speed bearings and i am running upto 350 hp with bone stock engine so whats the best engine oil for high speed bearings and the engine as well thanks
Jay is an absolute savant
Thanks Marcos
Thanks a lot for the heaps of knowledge. The million dollars question is, if am on stock block and stock clearances and fully built head, and my engine is running 600whp boosted compared to 200whp NA, so should I keep using stock oil? Am talking about boosted F22C and 4b11T. Thanks again Jay
According to what he said, with stock clearances you should follow the oem oil recommendation. Engineering Explained did a video which concluded this as well.
what should i run for 500hp? clearances and oil weight? summer/fall driven lowest temp ill see outside is like 35 lowest 100 highest
Can you use morotkot in combination with motor oil to lower the friction in your engine??
You’ve just touched break in oil for cams subjected. Shall we consider using the same brake in procedure as for the engine when replaced the cams only?
Now how often do I change regular synthetic oil?
After every track days? Every other? What for it to turn black, maybe with a slight gold tinge?
Racing oil is great for small, air-cooled engines, especially in hot weather. 20w50 VR1 is tops.
What about if you use a thicker oil on a clapped out engine to prevent oil burning etc. I know the answer is to tear down the engine but I'm just asking not that I'm currently in this situation but I just figured it would be a good question to ask
Do a video on PCV vent to air vs sealed.
There are TONS of pcv videos out there
Is there a place we can go to put our engine and it’s house power to find out what we should use... coz now I’m not sure I’m using the right oil... I’m using castrol edge 15-30
Is Amazon synthetic equivalent to expensive oil like say Mobil1? Looking at 5w30
Most dedicated racing oils have little to no detergents and will need to be changed a lot more often if run in a street car.
Hello Jay, i was wondering if i could get your opinion.
I've a 2013 fiesta st 1.6 ecoboost with 140k kms, i always runned the 5w20 that the manufacter recomended, but i live in portugal where temperatures are considerabily higher than germany or england where this cars were mostly sold. I had induction kit, stage 2 intercooler, decat, exast and a 240bhp map. I used to run that car a lot fast. One day there was like 34°C and i broke it. Crankshaft got scratched, had to make full engine rebuild. Added bafled sump, new forged pistons (0.5mm larger) and rods, new crankshaft, worked engine head, king bearing and etc. I'm about to mount it on the car and i'm think of running a 5w30 motul specific with break-in additive for like 2000km and later switch to motul 300v 5w40 (wich my fiesta st coellegues use on theirs when they do trackdays. If i could get your opinion would be nice
600whp 2jz build, i was going with king xp standard size bearings. aggrandize my clearances are too tight for that power.
Wont thicker oil affect the cam journals seeing how those clearances stay tight?
I have bmw m2 n55 cp piston carrillo connection rod, pure turbo, what oil I have to use?
I just built an engine they runs strong but the rings didn’t seat. I was going to use thicker oil before I dissemble it. What are your thoughts ?
Thank you for your wisdom,
I do have a question though.
Say for example a stock boosted eco engine is using 0-20 oil, but is now full bolt on making over 120+ horsepower from stock, and is taken to track events.
Would it be wise to up the weight? I feel like even though you're stating to follow OEM guidelines, 0-20 would thin out wayyyy too easy on a tuned boosted production engine.
it is. Best to use 0w40.
Many buy a generic oil pump and call it good. No, stay oem. Buy a new oem oil pump then send it off to 4P Piston racing for a check up and porting to avoid cavitation. Very very important