A very annoying oil leak!
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- Опубликовано: 23 июн 2024
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This video is produced for entertainment purposes only and Britannica Restorations nor Michael Wesson and/or guests featured in this video shall not, in any way or measure, be held accountable or responsible for any damages related to attempted repairs as pictured in this video.
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II’m not sure but if that screw is on the suction side of the pump (while running) it will draw air in. On stopping gravity will leak oil.
Stopping gravity could be tricky
The chamfer of the hole in the plate is quite large compared to the bolt so not 100% contact between bolt head and plate. Also, as said, may not be a true face on the plate. Sorry you missed evensong on this one. Suggest looking into Mr Jameson for a more in-depth answer.
At least now you know its a genuine land-rover rebuild with the usual leak.
Looked to me like the bolt was bottoming out because of when a previous screw was drilled out it had made the countersink in the plate deeper. I presume the reason it was not leaking when running was because the pump was sucking air.
Could be
If there is any opportunity for a liquid to escape it container, it will
I wouldn’t touch those bolts and plates at any cost right now you got it to stop leaking and I swear if you touch it again it’s gonna dump like a sieve
Have you drilled out these bolts? Conical seat in steelplate looks damaged. These bolts also need some sealing otherwise they can leak through the thread
The bolts are in blind holes
You are right about the blind hole. But there is no seal between the gearbox casing and the oil pump housing, so the bolt bore will fill with oil. These bolts are assembled from factory with some sealer/loctite . Thats why you have to heat up these bolts to break this product otherwise you strip the torcs
Still don’t know why it wasn’t leaking while running… ah, the mysteries of working on Defenders!!
I just it is one of those things ...
It's a landrover, it's supposed to leak 😉 Puddles of fluid tells you it still has some to lose.
Little things like that can send a man over the edge.
I hope JP finds something buckled, bent, warped or all three just so you can sleep easy.
That aluminum part must have hairline crack! But You fixed that one anyway!
You are right!
I mean I see the countersink is not good. Is it the correct angle on Srew or Countersink hole ? It is going threw the thread, so why not using Loctide for sealing the thread , and maschining the Countersink hole? Also, I can see many small edges, and shaves ? Some srews are not in Line with the head, so maschine the cone a little bit. Sometimes Galvanizing is different thickness.
Looks like that cover plate been drilled where stud goes in .try new cover
Just a theory Mike but that hole looked slightly ovaled to me on the backing plate... is it possible someone has chiseled the screws out after say ronding the heads off and therefore divoting the cast around the tapper for that bolt hole?
You just don’t know what was done to it before it arrived on your bench.
There’s some real thick neck buggers out there who can muller anything!
Think the problem is your clock's stopped, Mike.
Did it come in a yellow bag?
Défaut de planéité !!
may be the Deliverquantity is different ?
What do you expect, they have never been a quality item
The plate hole is not circular there's a low in the countersunk hole
Could drive you nuts chasing something like that. I'd be reluctant to remove that pump again but I get that it wasn't the one the box came with. Hope something was found with the plate to explain the issue.
See next video when I get change to make it!
Those jobs can make you lose it
may be the Oring is to hard?
Could be
@@BritannicaRestorations i had some on the Dieselheater when it runs and was warm no leckage when it stops running starts lecking
there was a problem with the thickness and to less shore
to much shore?!?
First