REBUILDING A YAMAHA YZF1000R THUNDERACE | PART 6
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Well what can I say - the journey so far rebuilding my very neglected Yamaha YZF1000R Thunderace project bike, hasn't exactly been smooth sailing. It's certainly had it's ups and downs.... So in this episode expect very much of the same old. We certainly make progress into rebuilding this old motorcycle but it absolutely doesn't come without its many hurdles.
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Camera equipment
- gopro hero8 w/ media mod
- Sony ZV-E10 w/ Sigma 16mm lens
Ever heard of oil? 😂
How can you even consider building an engine dry!?! 😂
Hey, not sure if it just didn't make the edit, but you really want to apply some assembly lube to those valve stems ( 3:39 ) to avoid a full dry start.
Yes, and some oil onto the cylinder liners, the cam bearings and the cams. Putting the assembly together dry will cause high friction and can create damage. That damage can itself cause further damage even when oil reaches it.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the shim measurements. They should really be measured with a micrometer. Cheap verniers aren't accurate enough. On the bright side it shouldn't be too hard to get that bolt out. Plenty to get hold of.
Best comment so far. And what about the buckets?? They look bone dry and he said he was struggling. There shouldn't be no struggling at all. Did he messed up the bores with that stone age spring compressor?
yep get some vice grips onto that bolt
Was there cross hatching on the cylinder walls? That is required to retain some oil; if you happened to polish them smoother it could lead to a lack of oil and early wear.
Micrometer and assembly lube was missing here. Calipers are good for metal work but when dealing with engine assembly tolerances they not accurate enough
I'm not being negative mate,I learned a lot of stuff the hard way , but while it's a ball-ache I'd take it all apart again and put it back together giving everything a light coating of oil. While you might get away with it there's a good chance all your efforts could be wasted basically running your top end dry even for a few seconds. Some oil in those bores would have been a good idea as well. All a learning curve though and I respect you for trying,even though as an ex mechanic ,cars and bikes,I sometimes find myself screaming "nooooooooooooooooo" at the screen.
Upvote specifically because you cleaned off the cylinder walls, there are new groove wear spots everywhere. Best thing to do is when the metal grinds make sure its lubed up to only grind what its directly contacting and not cause excess wear. Overall, super job dude. My least favorite activity was doing the brakes on my 1998 5th gen VFR.
You’re still doing great. Don’t let the minor blockers like a sheared bolt dampen your enthusiasm. I do recommend using some assembly lube and oil as you build it back up so it’s nicely lubricated ready for your first start. Keep going buddy! 👍
Put a drill over the top of the broken stuff and reverse it and it will come out
Bummer.... Don't loose heart. You will be extremely satisfied when you fire it up.... Just a learning curve 🤞👍
That engine is as dry as a nun's....
🤣👍
You should have used assembly lube when rebuilding the top end & a cross hatching tool for the barrels.
GT85,WD40,ACF50 any of those will preserve metal parts if you are keeping them outside mate. Good on you for getting this far! been there with snapped casing bolts, you got lucky it has so much still exposed, heat + grips will get that one out!
Acf would have also removed a lot of that rust! Wicked stuff that everyone should have a tin of
hat off to you, your doing brilliantly DONT GIVE UP
Fair play to you for even attempting that rebuild of the top end , must have taken alot of study and patience but look at the experience you've got from all that pain which is priceless as you well know by now , congrats on the blackbird, I really enjoyed that build and the very best of luck with the thunderace and the dirt bike .
I’m a really good machinist by trade and a pretty decent motorbike mechanic, only way I got to the decent level I’m at now was by snapping hundreds of bolt and taps, it’s part of the learning curve sadly
There is enough stud showing to get 2 nuts on it and undo, just get them as low a possible.
Great update dude - it's coming along nicely, if slower than you'd hope...
Can't wait for the compression check.
love following the journey man ! keep it up !
Appreciate it!!
Fair play for having a go, but you should have stripped the cylinders and pistons out as well if you want to do this properly. They should all be checked, what if you have rust on the liners underneath the pistons?
The rust wasn't there on initial stripdown, it's just a bit of surface rust from being outside with the head off. As it was under a cover, that rust is from moisture in the atmosphere. I very much doubt that any rust will have formed below the seal made by the piston rings, and so cyls 1 & 4 should be clear as they were at TDC
@@WoBlink1961 That’s all very well if the the seal on the rings are good in the first place. Personal I wouldn’t take the risk, plus cosmetically if the head is vapour blasted why not do the rest? Don’t even get me started on the dry assembly!
Sorry about the bolt Rye. Wow though, you are doing such an awesome job, really going for it! Tackling that head is a daunting task for most, so the fact that you’re getting stuck into it and not giving up is quite admirable. You are learning so much, and it’s great content as well. Absolutely love following this channel. Keep up the great work Rye👏 P.S. sorry if you know this or have heard it many times in the comments already… if you coat everything with WD-40 when you plan not to work on it for a while, or even if it’s just overnight for stuff left outside, you’ll be pleased with the rust protection it provides.
Ah nice to see your comment again I feel its been a while? And it's funny you say about the WD-40 I have done just that ever since!! I won't make that mistake 🙈
@@BikesofRye Yeah I haven’t been commenting as much, and I feel a bit guilty for that, sorry Rye just been stuck in my own head… but I never miss an episode or giving that much deserved like. Seriously watching you and your channel grow through the years has been amazing to see. Always cheering for your success, and what a treat seeing your subs add up. So cool!
no lube on the cam bearings when installing the cams
Simple repair, remove cams,again , heat up casing not too hot ,mole grips on what's lefts of bolt ,then remove carefully. Wait till cool retap thread correct size, re assemble, using new bolt and accurate torque wrench.
Thanks for the tips!
Remember, never go in dry my friend 😂
Mark the chain and cam sprockets with some paint marker. Makes it easier to assemble.
Please STOP carrying engine around in the boot of your car. If you have a head on crash, that engine is coming for you. The seats won’t stop it. 🕊🕊🕊
I’d vice grip that bolt pal there’s plenty of hold on it… just out of curiosity I’ve once been told that the engine head and cam shafts have to be machined together. Or else they wouldn’t sit properly is that the case or was I told absolute bull by the dealers?
been waiting for updates :)
Hit a 30mph sign at 120mph on my Thunderace 😕 houmous bone, chest plate, 11 ribs an i nearly bit my tongue off lol which was great I must say 😮 the bike was undamaged apart from headlight clock support bracket an All fairings👌 rode straight as a dye after nothing major was damaged 👍 ended up selling it to a guy said he was going to track it still miss it would buy it back in a heartbeat 😊 good bike rider error 😢 enjoyed it while I owned it only had 10ķ on clock when I sold it
It must be noted that every day Chinese digital Vernier calipers are not considered precision measuring devices, for the shims you should have used a micrometer.
But respect where respect is due, it takes stones to expose oneself to the possibility of negative ridicule due to inexperience, from keyboard Warriors.
Well done Keep on learning.
Peace of advice u should really whip those cylinder barrels off and get them prof honed and c if the rust cleans out without increasing cyl bore clearance! If u measure up in spec a re ring is a good way to go failing that new pistons rings and revote required good luck
Why did ou not take the barrel off and check the piston rings? They are probably seized.
Do yourself a favour and go on a course and learn some basic skills. All you're doing are the moment is bodging. A bit of back ground knowledge will help you along way
Another great video bud well done chin up bud this is what bike building is all about if it was easy it would be boring
When I take a step back I have to remind myself exactly that... would be boring if it was easy
Absolutely bud ur smashing it well done
Yesssssssssssssss more videos
You absolutely don’t need to spit the chain to time the engine. I’ve done loads of
Snapped bolt should come out fairly easily, now there is no stress on it. However, bit concerned about why it snapped. We’re you using a torque wrench on them?
Wouldn’t worry about the shim sizes too much. Verniers won’t be that accurate anyway. Plus you will need to set all the clearances having changed the heads, reground the valves, swapped buckets around, etc.
Did you lube the camshafts when you put them back?
Nope.... 🧐
@BikesofRye supposed to put assembly lube on the camshaft so on the first rotation while the engine is building oil pressure it doesn't cause any damage
@@211292alex mate he's doing a rebuild outside, I would worry so much about that 🤷♂️
Take some time away then come bk to it 😊
Chin up big man 👍🏻 love the videos 😁😁
Keep up the great work , its a learning curve for you, hopefully you will be sponsored by an oil company 😅, and a job isn't dont right unless you do it 2 or 3 times 😅😅 .... chin up dude and crack on
Thank you!
I'm puzzled why one of these particular bolts should snap. A good pair of vice grips snapped shut very tightly on to the broken stud should remove it just fine!!
What s bummer after all that good work. Looks like plenty of the stud is sticking out so hopefully you'll be able to get it out. Have to get this off my chest....being an old engineer....those are digital calipers not vernier calipers. Vernier calipers are named such because they have a vernier scale on which is used to take the measurement. Much easier now, like with all measurement tools that there are digital options. Great video.....cheers.
Keep it lubed...wd40,light oil ,light grease anything better than rust.... will all come first run in service.
Before you put engine covers on, pour some oil on the moving parts then turn it over by hand. Great job. That bolt should come out easy with some mole grips. Look forward to the next instalment 👍🏼
Gutted about the bolt dude!! But I’d recommend using a bolt extractor it’s like a socket you tap onto the stud and it cuts into it creating a good grip and grips even tighter when undoing it, worked a treat to get my seized and snapped header bolts out no drilling needed
I really admire what your doing, keep at it. It will be worth it in the end.
I hope so!
Once you've get this running you'll have to ride it over to millyard's to see some of his projects!
Will have to show him how to build a bike properly 🤣
@@BikesofRye lol
You’re doing a great job. Stay positive buddy🤘
Always!
It's a steep learning curve. Best thing to do is start again. Get the barrels honed, clean the piston ring seats then start on the cylinder head. When putting the cams in make sure the timing lines line up with the crankshaft marks as per the service manual. When putting the camshaft holders on first remove the camchain tensioner, now put all the cam holders on with the bolts finger tight before starting the torque sequence. Don't forget to use some red engine rebuild oil on all parts on assembly. One thing to take into account is there are torque wrenches and there are quality torque wrenches. Get yours tested against a known standard to see if it is accurate. Hope this helps, good luck
“Split the cam chain” NEVER!
That bit half way through, where you said you thoroughly enjoyed it. Keep that in mind. Bolts snap but the joy of fixing it is addictive. Onwards and upwards! Loving this channel
Done a great bud. I thought I did well on my bike, I havnt gone as far as heads off and cam chains. What an experience.
You got this! You'll be an expert in bolt extraction and tap & dye before this is all done.
My grinding paste is over 30 years old and the stick I cut I half and put on a drill, always worked and produced good compression.
Hi Ryan, Ill buy the cylinder head with the broken stud from you, let me know how much you would take for it?
Keep at it man.
Always!
A drop of oil cam shaft bearing tip. Is the crankshaft in the correct position?
Very last exhaust stud AND nearing last bolt both snapping is disheartening to say the least. I'd be cursing all over haha. I can't express how lucky (along with a bit of guilt) I feel for having such an in-depth series WITH an engine rebuild on the exact platform I'm picking up. I'd been splitting hairs on whether I was ready to tackle such a task or not, but you definitely gave me the bug and the last push towards a positive. Your videos and all the comments are already helping me a ton and I haven't even got the bike in my garage yet!
Thanks for the videos mate and good luck on your future endeavors. I will try to update my build on here too if that's alright with you. Cheers!
Good luck! 👍🏼 😎
Hope you are keeping well! Shout if you fancy a Rideout
Stud remover socket that fits on ratchet should get it out 👍
Best thing to do is just ask allan millyard lol
Well done a stud extractor should get out the broken bolt
🏍👍👍
I would have tested leak down on the valves
🏍👍👍
Toooooooorqueeee wreeeeench...
How did the Blackbird giveaway go?
I announced that over on my Patreon 😁
You did time the camshafts up with the crank I’m assuming?
Camshafts with the crank? What do you mean?
@BikesofRye I assume he means in regards to the piston rotation so the right valves are open on the correct cylinder otherwise the piston will smash in to open valves when they should be closed so the cams will look in time but the crank is in the wrong orientation
Ps I'm no mechanic that's just how I understand it 🤣
@@211292alex ah OK engine was timed up before I stripped the top end and I also checked it was still in place when the head went back on
@BikesofRye should be all good mate as I said, I'm no mechanic 🤣🤣 I would turn it over by hand once it's all together just to make sure it turns over okay before using the starter motor better safe than sorry
If Greta built engines... not a drop of oil in sight. And why are you bothered about timing before checking clearances?
Dont take so long with the next video. Waited ages for this 🙂
Working on it!
Valve guides and valves from different engines.
Thanks for tuning in always happy to have you here
Just keep going don’t let it get you down 👍