BMW Mini Timing Chain DIY Replacement for N12, N14, N16 & N18 engines (R55, R56, R57, R58, R59, R60)
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- Опубликовано: 16 фев 2020
- Instructional video on how to change the camchain / timing chain on an R56 Minis fitted with the N12, N14, N16 and N18 engine - there are differences in these engines but the procedure is the same for all 4 of them.
In this video, we're diving deep into the process of replacing the timing chain on a Mini Cooper R56, R55, R57, R58, R59, R60 &R61. If you've been hearing that dreaded timing chain noise, it's time to address it before it leads to more significant issues.
What You'll Learn in This Video:
- Detailed step-by-step guide on how to replace the timing chain on a Mini Cooper R56
- Common signs that indicate your Mini Cooper's timing chain needs replacement
- Essential tools you'll need for the job
- Tips and tricks to ensure a smooth and successful repair process
Why This Video is Important:
Timing chain issues are a known problem for Mini Cooper R56, R55, R57, R58, R59 and R60 models. This video provides you with the knowledge and confidence to tackle the repair yourself, potentially saving you hundreds of dollars in mechanic fees.
Hashtags:
#minicooper #R56TimingChain #TimingChainReplacement #MiniCooperRepair #TheMiniSpecialist #MINI #R56 
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This is the best video on a mini timing chain job on RUclips. Thank you sir, you’re a godsend.
Thankyou for that comment. We are always here to help so please let us know if you have any queries regarding the video or MINIs in general.
He's definitely a proper English tradesman !
Listening to a man like this you can learn a lot !
Great Video.
Thank you for making this sir, super useful. Timing tasks can be daunting on engines you haven't carried the work out on before. Nothing like seeing the quirks being dealt with first hand before diving in 👍👍
This is a really great video. The first few minutes where you explain the symptoms of a bad cam chain and why the VANOS solenoids throw the error code are excellent - Edd China level stuff. Thank you!
I'm blown away by this video. So informative. I estimate the chances of me messing up the repair I'm doing on my Mini have gone down by 90%. Thank you so much. I owe you a beer.
I'll accept a beer any day - thank you.
Fantastic video! Learned lots. Respect to your expert knowledge and skills, so often underrated and not appreciated in a modern world👍
We have a 2015 R60 Countryman S with the N18 engine that has a loud rattle when cold. I have ordered the kit, the timing tool, and the belt tools. I sincerely appreciate your excellent video. It was just what was needed to give me the confidence to do this job. Thanks a million for taking the time to do it.
Very impressed by this video, I feel a lot more confident about the thought of attempting this myself, first I'm going to make sure I have the tools you used, nothing worse than getting halfway through a job and realising you don't have one specific tool that's necessary!. Great video
as an apprentice mechanic i thank you for this brilliant video, been having misfiring issues on mine and didn't know what it was. i had a slight idea that it was the timing chain but haven't really found out until i found this video thanks you've really helped.
Excellent video with easy-to-follow instructions. Many thanks to you for posting this as I referenced it (as well as my repair manual) several times while changing out the timing chain on my 2011 R56 Mini Cooper S. Now that I'm basically finished, I do have one question before I put the valve cover back on and reassemble the front end...
Before tightening the crank & cam bolts, I checked the timing using the cam lock tool and the pin that goes in the fly wheel. Everything was spot on, so I tightened the crank bolt properly (50nm, then 180 degrees), followed by the intake sprocket bolt, then the exhaust sprocket (20nm then 180-degrees for each). After that I rotated the crank 2 times and rechecked the timing using the flywheel pin and cam locks. The pin went in fine and the exhaust side cam lock went on easily, but the intake side didn't line up 100%. There was about 5mm of gap where the exhaust cam lock piece and intake cam lock piece meet, so I had to loosen the intake cam sprocket bolt and rotate the cam slightly using a 27mm wrench to correct the timing. I then replaced the intake cam sprocket bolt with a new one (since it's a single-use bolt) and did the correct torque procedure again.
Now everything lines up perfectly and I rotated the crank and rechecked the cam position 3 times to be sure. That said, here's the question: The correct procedure calls for tightening the crank bolt first, then the intake cam bolt, followed by exhaust cam bolt. Since my timing was off after doing that, I only changed and re-torqued the bolt on the intake cam, but should I have replaced and re-torqued both the intake cam bolt followed by exhaust cam bolt? I assume everything is fine since the timing all lines up as confirmed by the flywheel pin and cam locks, but I wanted your opinion. I have extra new cam bolts, but hate to do it again if I don't have to. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
And thanks again for the great video!
I changed the vvt pulleys today and car works fine again and no more timing issues! Veery happy.
I would like to thank you for the wonderful explanation on how to do the timing chain procedures . your illustration of the repair with the engine on the stand was a great idea , showing what has to be removed gave me a better under standing what and were to look for in that tight engine bay. I would encourage you to continue to show these illustrations on the engine stand whenever possible thank you very much.
Appreciate the feedback - thank you. Have done a similar video on how to change a waterpump on a Mini that may interest you.
Appreciate the feedback tbank you
See z
@@TheMiniSpecialist thank you panjabi
@@TheMiniSpecialist Hi guys. I have Peugeot 308 THP 200 EP6 that has already had the timing done by the Dealer at 70000 miles. Now they couldn’t find out what caused the timing to be out. The engine continues to warble on startup and when idling. So I am thinking its either the chain kit needs replacing or one of the tensioners on the way put, the Solenoids need replacing or there is an issue with pulleys and tensioners. Without wishing to throw £1000s at the dealer I am not sure which to try first. The RAC put a sound scope on the front belt tensioner and that was making a resonation so I had that replaced but the warbling/wobble is still there. Do you know what it would likely be out of what I have mentioned. As a side topic do you know what might make the car over rev from cold start that is to do with the ambient temperature of the engine is higher. Only over revs when the weather gets warmer and the temperature of the engine is starting warmer. Thanks
Thanks for the great video. I am about to undertake the same task on my daughters 07 mini R56 N12 and this practical demonstration has provided me with the confidence to go ahead. I am use to working on motor bikes. Cheers
Another Thank You!
Practical, real, inclusive, and well displayed. A confidence builder.
Thank you - glad it was useful
Thank you very very much from Paris, without your video I never find broken loosing parts on the stainer. (No odb error for myself) I repeated your video a lot of time before mounted the timing chain. My r55 works very well now. It was a real pleasure to have your experience in my garage. Take care and all the best for your youtube's chain.
Merci beaucoup
Excellent the best mini Cooper timing chain replacement video on you tube. And I have seen them all!
That's a work that needs to be appreciated I saw the same engine in Peugeot 308 and it was so hard to change it without a preknowledge and the proper tools
Great video. Fantastic detail and hints and tips...couldn't be any clearer. Gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my driveway and it kept our lovely but high miler cooper on the road.
Various times in my life I have not been able to afford the labour costs of garages and people like yourself are obe level gems! You give people an option to tackle the job themselves.
Great channel
Great detail
Subscribed and shared and loved every minute.
Glad it was useful. I take the view that if you want and can do this yourself then happy to show you. If you cant then at least you know what is involved.
Thank you for your wonderfully produced video. It seems a rarity to find a video that comes through with content that actually teaches the original content that it promises to deliver in the title. I hope to view more of your videos in the future. Well Done!
Wow, thank you!
I like the bracket method for torque-turn. I have always used a sharpie and checked it. Off to the hardware! Great video - thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and approach to teaching. You are the top man and I’ve watched literally hundreds of tutorials for a variety of things. It looks more complex than surgery like replacing hips and knees :)
LOL - have never replaced hips or knees so I can't comment - but seriously doubt it.... Thanks for the nice comments.
WOW! Great video. Technology and mechanical ability to do this job is over the top. You are a true mechanical surgeon!!
Fantastic vid, this will be appreciated for years to come 👍🏻
Thank you for this video. We'll be taking our 2010 Mini Clubman S into the dealer on Monday. We've recently began hearing a noise from the engine compartment on cold start that goes away when warm. The tensioner was changed in 2014, but rather be safe than sorry. I should add we are the 2nd owners of the car. Currently to change the timing chain it's $1800 USD. Expensive, but a far sight cheaper than a new/rebuilt motor.
I have to say that $1800 is too much. We charge £641 with is about $830 so shop around.
Thanks for the bit about the scan tool. I just bought one off eBay for my timing chain replacement (2011 R55 124,000 miles).
I purchased a 2010 Mini S about a year ago and recently took it to the Mini dealer for repairs and the quote given made it impractical to keep this vehicle, ... until I came across your video. I've reviewed many videos on the timing chain repair found them lacking in detail. I can only describe your video as, ..."The Best of the Best". Hence, I am confident I will be able to keep my car after this project. I'm going to also review your oil housing repair video, and if it's presentation & clarity is anywhere near this video, I will take on both repairs and be a happy camper, thank you!
That video took many hours to film and then more time to edit - and comments like yours make it rewarding and worthwhile - many thanks.
Thank you for taking the time to make this informative video!
Great video! I have done engine rebuilt by specialized firm, with new timing chain, but my mechanic got me scared saying the engine reconstruction is done badly! The reconstruction guys advised the last passage, resetting the values! So there is still hope, although my mechanic is telling me timing chain is noisy! I will keep hoping for happy ending! Thank you very much!
Just watching this again to get specs for cam pulley torques again as I’m going to try original pulleys as I don’t trust after market pulleys! Thanks again for the video as it is information gold !
looks like you might know what your doing
Excellent video, I'll be referencing this heavily as I have to do this exact job soon. Thanks for the visual reference!
Appreciate the feedback - thank you.
Best mechanical tutoring vid I've seen. All of what we need to know and none of the nonsense. Very thorough.
thank you!
Sending a Thank You! For the walk through. You, my friend are a rockstar!
I have very loud rattle, on a Pug 3008, which is not a trait of the chain, but more one of the vvt cam sprocket failing. I have no slack in the chain, with no visible damage to the guides. I fitted a new chain tensioner 2 months ago, and there was no significant difference. I had this issue on a Nissan 200sx where the vvt sprocket became extremely audible on its vvt inlet sprocket due to low oil level. This is a very informative video, as I am doing some trial and error work on my own vehicle
So very good to have the engine out to clearly show what happens
Excellent video,mine has a lumpy tick over,cleaned the vanos,changed the oil ,ticks over fine now ,will road test it tomorrow,fingers crossed,
Brilliant video! When I did my WaterPump, I jacked the engine up a few inches, instead of dropping it, the 3 bolts become very accesible then :)
I’m 50 years old.....I’ve never witnessed such a impeccable explanation to how to do something.
I know nothing about engines
You sir are a genius...
By 12:03 I’d forgot what you’d removed .
I own a mini and I wish you were near to where I live for you to service mine ..
excellent work.
Wow - thank you.
Thanks Mini for making a complicated engine with no room to work
Thank you for the great explanation!
This is an amazing video. Going to pick me up a cooper today! sweet deal!
Fantastic video excelente explicación y muy profesional y hermosa calidad humana al compartir tus conocimientos. Gracias hermano
You are an amazing instructor. Very clear voice and good camera angles. Well done
Thank you! 😃
Very helpful I’m waiting on some parts to come in before I start my timing chain repair this will be my first time attempting this work on my mini countryman s its a 2014 so thank you for insight
Thank you so much for the very detailed video.
Regards from Atlanta GA...
Great tutorial ! Great detail and hints and tips.
Thank you for your help I will going to do this tomorrow 👍
Hello MiniMaster,
absolut great and the best Mini Work Help Video ever seen, its my first Timing Chain i replaced, but with your video that gave me the confidence to it and whats realy great ist your step by step works.
For you Thousand Thanks from me.
Great Job you'v done👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Absolutely fantastic, very helpful and informative video! Thank you very much for what you do!
Greetings from Russia! ✌️
My pleasure!
Great vid and excellent knowledge. If I remove the valve cover will I be able to tell if the chain is loose. I have a 2009 r56 with bad idle and continuous check engine light. Thanks again.
Brilliant video... Fantastic info for the DIY guy.. many thanks for taking the time to share... Subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
I just did my chain following step by step from the video. Here are a couple things I found that might help the next person. The bolt under the intake is much easier to get after you are able to lower the engine with the jack. Best to replace the crank seal while you are there. When reassemble, make sure the mechanism from the crank pulley and water pump is engaging the transfer between.
Forgot to also say thank you. Great video @theminispecialist
Hands down best viddy for this job...since i cannot buy you a pint, ive chipped in a few
duckets in yer karmic accoount...thanx bruvvah...super job really...BTW
best parts haus? cheers....
Great video! I haven’t done the job yet, but I feel more than ready to tackle it after watching your video. It’s video creators like you that make it possible for young at home mechanics like me to tackle these fairly “big” jobs.
Awesome video!! Thank you!!
very interesting video , i own an Rcz gt200 which uses the same engine with some differences but was interesting to learn about it. mine is in the dealer at the moment and has hesitation under load 3rd and 4th high revs and idling weirdly wasnt the high pressure fuel pump wasnt the coil packs i think it might be the cam solinoids
Very helpful video - thank you. I was able to do the replacement successfully. After 5k miles of no problems, cylinder 3 misfires consistently when temp reaches about 200 degrees F. When engine temp falls below 200 F, no more misfire. Coils, plugs, injectors are all good. Pls advise on what you think is problem.
Thank you very much. This video is of great help. I have this job in front of me and being old fashioned, i usually seek help from the Haynes manual. In that manual , the accessibility issues are brushed aside, your work illustrate and resolve them brilliantly. This said, i have a technical query about the locking of the crankshaft: at 24.15 and then at 41.30 you undo and then retorque the crankshaft bolt against the crankshaft locking pin. The authors of the Haynes manual advise against this: While they of course make it clear that the crankshaft pin should be in place during the timing chain replacement, they recommend to remove it temporarily and to instead lock the crankshaft via the transmission (high gear engaged and firm pressure on the brakes) when it come to undo and then to retorque the crankshaft bolt. There are no explanations for this but it appears that they fear that the pin may snap under the high torques involved. I would be very grateful for your comments on this, have you ever heard about the pin failing or do you see any merits to the "transmission lock" method that they recommend ?
I am sincerely grateful for your work and advice.
Philippe
We usually do one of these a week and always use the pin to lock the crank to torque up the crank bolt. The same pin each time I might add. Without it I would be fearful of the timing being out.
Excellent vid I have a question I have bought a 2009 mini that wasn’t going and was told it needed a timing chain so I bought the car to fix up … now I have it stripped down ready to put a new chain in however I found when stripping it down it was a major as although the chain was still in tact the plastic fantastic chain guide had disintegrated and the chain had eaten the metal top guide bracket away hence lots of metal fragments went down into the sump, the oil pickup was almost totally blocked with plastic and metal fragments and gasket sealant most like from using too much sump sealant ..so should I use a gasket on the sump or more gasket sealant . ps I hope not to many metal fragments got into the oil gallery’s as some fragments were found on the mesh of the exhaust vanos actuator sensor ill soon know after I assemble and run it and hear crank knocks after while
Very detailed and informative video, really impressed!
I am about to do this task on my wife’s 69k miles 2009 Mini Cooper 1.6, which is exhibiting the telltale signs of cam chain/cassette wear (hunts at idle, a death-rattle on startup, engine warning light).
I bought a Bluetooth OBDII reader from eBay and it showed cam phase sensor error, replaced the sensors and it cleared for a short while then returned, clearly the phase sensor was a red herring and a symptom of the loose timing chain..
I’m an accomplished home mechanic and have no problem with the mechanical task, my question concerns the reset/learning that needs to be done at the end - my OBD reader is basic and only reads/clears codes.
What budget OBD communication system do you recommend for resetting/re-learning after the work is done?
Incredibly helpful video, did the job in six hours!
My mini had a rough idle, changing the chain helped but it's still not running perfecty. No check engine light tho. Does anybody has an idea where i could look next?
Thank you for wonderful video. Are the camshaft adjusters need to rotate left or right (or there are stay themselfs on correct position) before set back on camshaft? Thank you in advance.
Awesome video!! excellent explanation, much appreciated. One question, any suggestions on what scanner to buy in order to reset the VANOS?
Awesome! How about a tool box tour?
Thank you , great explanation and DIY
what an excellent bit of mechanics and a really nice bloke . just wouldn't mind get the name of the tools he used at the end . thanks.
Outstanding video.. very informative.. thank you so much
You are so good bro, I figured out after I watched ur video
Amazing video!!! Thanks so much
I’m half way through the job and have found no damage to the guides when I removed them. I’m doing the job as the N18 2012 JCW engine has a loud rattle in all running condition, but now concerned this isn’t the root cause. Could it still be noisy because of the chain even without guide damage? While it’s taken apart should I look for something else before I rebuild
No engine codes being flagged either.
before
wish there was someone remotely like you up here in Edinburgh. I need mine done, but lack the space to do it myself. Always worried about giving this kind of job that has lots of brand specific knowledge to a random mechanic!
I look forward to opening an Edingburgh branch of The Mini Specialist!
@@TheMiniSpecialist Much needed.... I did consider whether it was cost effective to have the car transported down. It's a lovely R58 JCW coupe, and i'm trying to give it the best care I can, as it was obviously neglected a bit by previous owner. Runs strong but occasional rattle from engine bay gives me the fear!
I'd engage with the work myself, but I live in a flat and a street doesnt seem the best place to try this ;)
If i can keep car working long enough, I have family down south, so may speak to you about dropping off!
Fantastic thank you very informative 👍👨🏻🏭
Great video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Super guide - many thanks for sharing 👍
Hey Mini specialist, I just did the head gasket on the same engine. I don’t know what the issue is but the timing chain is super tight now. I used a 1.20 head gasket and I replaced the upper timing chain guide and just reassembled .
Well - it is supposed to be tight and the tensioner is a spring - so should allow movement....
Hi Hugh. Great and very explanatory video. Subscribed 👍
Thanks for the sub!
Great video! Did you reuse your Crank, and cam bolts? Thank You!
perfect that video mate very clear how to fix it i am now doing the same job thank you very much and i have subscribed take care
Thank you very much!
Excellent video, thanks so much professor
Probably goes without saying since it was mentioned in the video, but it’s super important to install the timing chain tensioner before you tighten down the cam sprockets. I didn’t do this and ended up a tooth out, luckily figured out the problem before I fired it up.
Did you install the top chain guide before or after you tightened the chain?
@@lyt_w8t I’m pretty sure I fitted it after tensioning the chain.
Good quality video thank you I’ve found it easier to just remove throttle body housing (four torque screws) to get at the chain tensioner and you didn’t mention the fact that the camshafts can’t be locked in place until you realign them by undoing the e14 bolts and adjusting their position by however much so the locking clamps sit squarely (exhaust first followed by inlet) on the cams all of this comes after placing the locking pin in. Tell me if I’m doing it wrong ?
Like the throttle body housing idea - much easier if you don't have a lift. As for locking the camshafts- not sure about that. Lock the crank first ensuring the writing on the camshafts is showing and if the timing is correct the locking tool should go on without an issue. If the chain has stretched you can create some wiggle by removing the tensioner. That said once the chain is removed the cams can be locked and should stay locked until everything is torqued up anyway...
Thanks so much. I will check out the video. 👍🏻😊
Invaluable video. Thank you
I bought a turbo MIni last September and two days later the car died on the highway. The crank pulley bolt was completely out. Tried replace it and the new one just free spun. Pulled off the valve cover and all exaust rockers no longer have spring tension. Removed the oil pan this weekend and one side of the chain is taught, but not the other. Also, those familiar plastic bits are broken off next to the chain. Looks like I'll have to pull the head to see if the pistons came into contact with the valves. I've never felt so ripped off before. Can you think of anything else I should look into while I have it apart?
It looks like you could 'buy' yourself some extra space by removing the engine mounting from the body, maybe just 2 easy bolts? Great video, thanks for posting.
Really good video & skill. Thank u Sir. 👏👍
Really, really appreciate you sharing your expertise! Great video - really, really helpful. I have a 2012 R60 S All4 with the N18 engine. I'm getting ready to install a timing chain kit and going to go ahead and replace the water pump, gasket, pulley and idler/tensioner while I'm at it. Are all the torque values you mention in this video the same for the N18? If not, where can I source those? Thank you.
I've never looked for the modern Mini, but you can find a multitude of manuals online - often free to download. Owner's forums another good bet.
great job, great video. thank u
Here from Los Angeles proud owner of two minis along with my wife,I gladly have the task of maintaining both and your video explaining how to replace the timing chain saved us so much money ,thank you for doing what you do
Glad it helped!
@@TheMiniSpecialist hi mini specialist I have a problem with my 2007 mini cooper base model my check oil comes out and when I check the oil it’s at normal level I know it’s not a good sign to get that sign so I just have my cooper parked till I get it figured out thank you any ideas would help
Hope you can answer this. But I bought a stage 3 clutch set along with a aluminum flywheel and I’m missing the hold to set the pin through the flywheel so time the chain right. Idk what to do
Like watching open heart surgery. In awe of your skill.
Thanks for the great video , would camshft position sensor faults also be a symptom of a worn chain. Tia.
Hello I need your halp I done a chain replacement and car is hard 2 start locked cams in with tool pined crank so I had a look and when I was turning crank 2 line every thing up I noticed at the cam pully on the intake side is moving but not moving the cam it self so do I need a now intake pully as I don't think it is looking as it should
Fantastic video, 👍
Thanks alot.
When replacing the crankshaft bolt, i take it that the mating surfaces (sprocket, hub, bolt head) have to be clean and dry to maximise friction. but do you apply oil to the bolt thread to help with achieving the 180deg post torque turn?
Also is the bolt 112 176 161 64, M14X70, with no captive washer under the head?
Cheers for the vid :)
Great walk through video. New subscribers 👍🏻
thanks a lot for the video! LOVE U!!!
You're welcome!
Excellent Video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just bought a 2011 countryman All4S with a 112000Kms and I am looking forward to do the timing job on it . I also have a problem with the Automatic transmission when using the D mode the transmission will kick whereas when using the paddle shift in M mode it seems to be fine ,, only rarely that it stops engaging on the 4th or 6ths gear, and turning off the car and restarting it will reset it and then respond to shifting again ,, any advice on how to tackle this issue would be greatly appreciated . there is no slipping between gears and apparently the transmission oil was changed 4 months ago ,, (as per the previous owner)
Sounds like a software issue - not had any problems with this particular gearbox but suggest you update the software as a first step.
great video. thanks!
I have a R56....do all my own work ..,doesn’t look so bad...luckily mine is still quiet....😀😀