When I have used this type of piston ring compressor in the past, I have always dropped the piston into the bore first, and then placed the compressor over the piston resting the piston rings on top of the cylinder block which keeps everything square and then tighten the piston ring compressor. Great job.
It’s pretty cool that this engine has a main cap girdle kinda like the BMW engines and Honda K series. It makes the bottom end stronger. However, it would be awesome if the block was closed deck for those who want to go crazy with boost.
I was going to say when you showcased that end play, not possible. If that end play was accurate, that engine originally would have barely run. It would have chewed up the timing cover, and probably throw the serpentine belt constantly. It would also have severe weapage from the rear main seal. Also wanted to mention that the way I was taught to measure end play was to bolt down the crank with all the main caps in place. In this case, the bearing carrier. You then take a pry bar and apply pressure on both ends of the crank. Taking a measurement at the front and rear main journals for movement.
Oh I only just saw your problem with the crankshaft spacers, I had the same problem with the Alfa Romeo 147 Twinspark engine and then I bought the half months that were a bit too thick and ground them down to the perfect size, I kept them on the side of a stone grinding machine and my nails just didn't touch the disc haha, so I got them on by checking the thickness with a caliper with Contini.
I wish I would have made videos of all the things I have done to the various BMW's I have had.. Really appreciate your content, real solutions for real enthusiasts! It's been driving me crazy wanting to know what the results of your dynamic drive sway bar refurb attempt? Did it leak? Thanks Brother!
George I couldn't see it in the video but I noticed that the big end bearings have no key way to stop them spinning? also I assume the bearings are the same for the conrod or conrod cap?
Very nice video. Great job. Now where do you get the torquing infromation and tolerances for the full engine. I have the N18 and i plan to rebuild the engine very soon. I have part of the informations but i need for the full engine and also how to clock the piston rings. Thanks
Hi George. Good job 👍 .. I just did a full rebuild on my r56 n12 .. I tried to start it, it starts but stalls after a few seconds.. it runs when I hold the accelerator down but it stalls at idle.. the error code that pops up on the diagnostic tool it says ''2845 Vanos Exhaust Actuator movement error'' .. i replaced it with another one but it's still the same .. any ideas?
good day, may I ask where I can buy bolts for the crankshaft bearings, so the thick bolts that you tighten with 30nm and then with an angle of 150 degrees, I cannot order those bolts anywhere, not from the Mini, BMW, Peugeot or Citroen, except at Ali, but what is the quality like?? They are not available for the Mini and BMW, and are no longer on the drawings. What now?
Your wide newer thrust washer clearance maybe due to a chain alignment issue that was found after tooling at the engine plant, just to give the chain a bit more room to ride in the middle. same as VW provide their cam belts impregnated with a Almond smelling white lube as the water pumps are off line. But thrust washers don't hold oil pressure like "end caps" they just use run off hence the thinner oil way just to force more oil onto the face. Great Video, Oh and the big end on the rods, shame you did not show more how they are cold cracked instead of the old school 2 part machined, (snapped in half) enjoyed this video back to basics start at the bottom end and work your way up...to a running engine ! Thank you
Yeah my guess is that they must have suggested more end float rather than less but it still doesn’t explain the discrepancy between the initial 15-50 microns and the 300 microns max limit
@@GeorgeAusters because there are 4 ..and they all add up ..the other two would be against surfaces of the bearing carrier...i don't know when you did this or if you are finished yet ..but can you still measure it now, that its nearly all back together and you might find all those clearances are now tighter and within spec
Did you replace any of thoses bolts for the crankshaft housing, I see its just a high temp seal. I have a Peugeot 308 N14 T7 so same motor ive just pulled the piston and notices its not easy to get to main bearing without dismantle. What would you recommend if i was not to remove all of engine from card. Should I remove main block i cant see anyway out of it as i am looking to still balance the transmission?
Im about to do the same with my N18 engine, but I'm really concern about that silicon in between the engine. does the manual says you have to build a gasket there? does that change what you measured with the plastigauge?
When you installed the new stretch bolts for the main bearing caps and connecting rod caps, should you have used lubricant on the threads? I have just fitted new cylinder head bolts and the manufacturer(Elring) recommends lubrication of threads
Wow thank you this video helped me with the Torq information of the oil pump, that was not in the haynes 2024 section that I received from a mechanic copies, s but I see an error in you, or a difference that I would like to point out, and help me too, I have the same connecting rod bolts as you, 12kant M7x37, the only problem is my book haynes 2024 says on license plate, connecting rod bolts 5NM 15NM 130gr+ -5gr. Before I got this official data I used 15NM, but that was a mistake, because I had written down your values, the 10NM. So I stopped the project for 3 days and ordered 8 new bolts to set them to 10NM. The same day, I get the Hynes 2024 values on the license plate and to my great surprise it says 5nm 15nm 130gr+-5gr, so now I have decided to use the new ones ordered. to save the bolts, and then finish the project, what gives me a bad feeling is that I felt that the bolts at 90 degrees were good and the last 35 degrees made 1 or 2 bolts a little weaker in my opinion, that is why I thought I would combination with your video I really made a mistake and my engine was hanging by a thread, I would like your opinion 1.6THP 156HP N14 2011 connecting rod bolts M7x37 12kant cap 9
@@GeorgeAusters 20nm is the manufacturers torque spec so it’s no going to strip them …there is more chance of them coming loose at 9nm than them stripping at 20nm
Rear main and front hub seals are PTFE seals on a MINI; they are supposed to be installed dry and allowed 4 hours to normalize before any rotation. Always refer to the seal manufacturer's instructions; this procedure is incorrect in the Bentley service manual.
Yes i'm sure. You measure the thickest parts. Nevertheless the journals all measured within spec with a micrometer which is much more accurate than plastigauge
@@GeorgeAusters I did engines back in high school and college so I do not remember seeing my gauge looking like a smear. That's why I asked because mine was always a line (like a bug that got squashed)
George, I like this channel but, this is the most boring vision a engine rebuild I have seen, your not in a laboratory get on with it or we will be here at Xmas
When I have used this type of piston ring compressor in the past, I have always dropped the piston into the bore first, and then placed the compressor over the piston resting the piston rings on top of the cylinder block which keeps everything square and then tighten the piston ring compressor. Great job.
Yeah that makes sense! Cheers!
Really enjoyed this. Bit dubious when I saw how long it was but very enjoyable and informative hour. Thanks mate.
Appreciate it! I tried to include everything that I would want covered if trying to follow this myself👍🏻
That hour flew! 🙂
It’s pretty cool that this engine has a main cap girdle kinda like the BMW engines and Honda K series. It makes the bottom end stronger.
However, it would be awesome if the block was closed deck for those who want to go crazy with boost.
Glad you posted these videos
You’re welcome!
I was going to say when you showcased that end play, not possible. If that end play was accurate, that engine originally would have barely run. It would have chewed up the timing cover, and probably throw the serpentine belt constantly. It would also have severe weapage from the rear main seal.
Also wanted to mention that the way I was taught to measure end play was to bolt down the crank with all the main caps in place. In this case, the bearing carrier. You then take a pry bar and apply pressure on both ends of the crank. Taking a measurement at the front and rear main journals for movement.
Great video George. Amazing job! Can't wait for first re-sterat of the engine.
I use moly budeum crease for the bearings and it can mixup with the 0w-30
Oh I only just saw your problem with the crankshaft spacers, I had the same problem with the Alfa Romeo 147 Twinspark engine and then I bought the half months that were a bit too thick and ground them down to the perfect size, I kept them on the side of a stone grinding machine and my nails just didn't touch the disc haha, so I got them on by checking the thickness with a caliper with Contini.
The problem is though.. I think they came with more endfloat than the specs suggest from factory as the original thrustwashers were barely worn
Been looking forward to this video 😊
🙌🏼
nice video George well done mate !
Thanks mate!
Great in depth video George, nice one 😎👍🏻
Thanks Richard👍🏻
Well done, very rewarding thus far no doubt! Can't wait to see you taking this around the Nurburgring! 🙂👍
oooh there’s a shout!
Really great video George. Very interesting. Well done!😎
Thanks David, appreciate it!
hi, very good video.
Where to find the specs you are measuring??
I wish I would have made videos of all the things I have done to the various BMW's I have had.. Really appreciate your content, real solutions for real enthusiasts! It's been driving me crazy wanting to know what the results of your dynamic drive sway bar refurb attempt? Did it leak? Thanks Brother!
No leaks yet👍🏻
And making videos of your work makes the job take 10 times longer believe me😅
Do you have a part number or a link to where you got the crankshaft ladder cap bolts from,
Thanks
George I couldn't see it in the video but I noticed that the big end bearings have no key way to stop them spinning? also I assume the bearings are the same for the conrod or conrod cap?
Just bought a JCW with N14 engine. Great video. Will be so helpful if my engine ever dies 😬
Nice! Not IF.. It's WHEN!
@@GeorgeAusters 😬
Lmao these engine don't really die. They damn sure suck the oil up tho. But if you keep the crankcase filled, they run a lifetime.
Replace it with a Honda K20 engine. It’s way more reliable, cheaper and makes more power.
Great content George I've been really looking forward to this and it didn't disappoint well done mate
Appreciate it!
Nice Job ✅✅
Hello, thank you for this video! Could you share the title and author manual you use during this rebuild? It's some Haynes book?
Gracias, genio mecánico... felicidades
You’re welcome!
@@GeorgeAusters i have the same engine, thanks for seen look and teach. Gracias por mostrar y enseñar .
Very nice video. Great job.
Now where do you get the torquing infromation and tolerances for the full engine.
I have the N18 and i plan to rebuild the engine very soon. I have part of the informations but i need for the full engine and also how to clock the piston rings. Thanks
Watch my other parts too
Hi George. Good job 👍 .. I just did a full rebuild on my r56 n12 .. I tried to start it, it starts but stalls after a few seconds.. it runs when I hold the accelerator down but it stalls at idle.. the error code that pops up on the diagnostic tool it says ''2845 Vanos Exhaust Actuator movement error'' .. i replaced it with another one but it's still the same .. any ideas?
Great video very tutorial hope at the end of your project you can give us a estimated cost of the rebuild great job
Yes I’ll be going over all the costs at the end of the project👍🏻
What’s the piston ring gap
Is it normal that the oil pump chain feels a little bit loose?
Yes
good day, may I ask where I can buy bolts for the crankshaft bearings, so the thick bolts that you tighten with 30nm and then with an angle of 150 degrees, I cannot order those bolts anywhere, not from the Mini, BMW, Peugeot or Citroen, except at Ali, but what is the quality like?? They are not available for the Mini and BMW, and are no longer on the drawings. What now?
They should be available at BMW
Which manual were you using?
Your wide newer thrust washer clearance maybe due to a chain alignment issue that was found after tooling at the engine plant, just to give the chain a bit more room to ride in the middle. same as VW provide their cam belts impregnated with a Almond smelling white lube as the water pumps are off line. But thrust washers don't hold oil pressure like "end caps" they just use run off hence the thinner oil way just to force more oil onto the face. Great Video, Oh and the big end on the rods, shame you did not show more how they are cold cracked instead of the old school 2 part machined, (snapped in half) enjoyed this video back to basics start at the bottom end and work your way up...to a running engine ! Thank you
Yeah my guess is that they must have suggested more end float rather than less but it still doesn’t explain the discrepancy between the initial 15-50 microns and the 300 microns max limit
Great Video!
That digital torque/angle wrench, what brand and model is it?
Here you go: amzn.to/3VySexR
Would it make any difference if you measured endfloat with the ladder lower bearing cap retainer whatever it's called in place
I’m not sure why it would to be honest
meant bearing carrier ..pressing edit message crashes browser
@@GeorgeAusters because there are 4 ..and they all add up ..the other two would be against surfaces of the bearing carrier...i don't know when you did this or if you are finished yet ..but can you still measure it now, that its nearly all back together and you might find all those clearances are now tighter and within spec
There aren't 4 thrustwashers, theres just 2 that sit in the block
Did you replace any of thoses bolts for the crankshaft housing, I see its just a high temp seal. I have a Peugeot 308 N14 T7 so same motor ive just pulled the piston and notices its not easy to get to main bearing without dismantle.
What would you recommend if i was not to remove all of engine from card.
Should I remove main block i cant see anyway out of it as i am looking to still balance the transmission?
Honestly I would remove the engine, much easier to work on it while it’s removed.
Those bolts are reusable👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters Cheers thanks for that I was worried because they have angle on the main crank bolts, but your right it would be easier out of the car
@@GeorgeAustersbtw your videos are amazing there is nothing else on RUclips about this engine like your videos
Im about to do the same with my N18 engine, but I'm really concern about that silicon in between the engine. does the manual says you have to build a gasket there? does that change what you measured with the plastigauge?
You measure the oil clearances dry and without gaskets
When you installed the new stretch bolts for the main bearing caps and connecting rod caps, should you have used lubricant on the threads? I have just fitted new cylinder head bolts and the manufacturer(Elring) recommends lubrication of threads
Doesn’t say anything about using lubricant.. Adding grease will alter the torque value
Did you install cylinder head bolts on a N14 engine?
Yes
@@sylviabaird9238 The elring bolts already come with an oil on.. Did you add even more?
@@GeorgeAusters Yes, as per instruction sheet from Elring
Wow thank you this video helped me with the Torq information of the oil pump, that was not in the haynes 2024 section that I received from a mechanic copies, s but I see an error in you, or a difference that I would like to point out, and help me too, I have the same connecting rod bolts as you, 12kant M7x37, the only problem is my book haynes 2024 says on license plate, connecting rod bolts 5NM 15NM 130gr+ -5gr. Before I got this official data I used 15NM, but that was a mistake, because I had written down your values, the 10NM. So I stopped the project for 3 days and ordered 8 new bolts to set them to 10NM. The same day, I get the Hynes 2024 values on the license plate and to my great surprise it says 5nm 15nm 130gr+-5gr, so now I have decided to use the new ones ordered. to save the bolts, and then finish the project, what gives me a bad feeling is that I felt that the bolts at 90 degrees were good and the last 35 degrees made 1 or 2 bolts a little weaker in my opinion, that is why I thought I would combination with your video I really made a mistake and my engine was hanging by a thread, I would like your opinion 1.6THP 156HP N14 2011 connecting rod bolts M7x37 12kant cap 9
My engine hasn’t blown up yet
George I’m planning to buy 77,5mm pistons do you think that will work?
That’s what I used
Did you have to use a bigger head gasket?
What’s the name of the book you’re using?
Here you go: ebay.us/XpkpeU
Oil squirters or oil spray nozzles are 20nm torque as stated by BMW/MINI TIS computer system not 9nm like Haynes have incorrectly stated
Haynes manual says 9
BMW/mini Tis system says 20nm and that is the manufacturer’s spec… The Haynes spec has nothing to do with the manufacturer at all
@@paulharrison2351 They weren’t that tight when I removed them.. Do them to 20nm if you want but you may strip the threads
@@GeorgeAusters 20nm is the manufacturers torque spec so it’s no going to strip them …there is more chance of them coming loose at 9nm than them stripping at 20nm
Where do you get all your technical information from, given that you can’t get haynes manuals anymore?
Haynes manual
omg i have done M7x37 = 5NM - 15NM - 130gr😮
spend about an hour figuring out why my crankshaft does not rotate freely and trust washers don't fit - turns out I put it opposite direction :D
😂
Rear main and front hub seals are PTFE seals on a MINI; they are supposed to be installed dry and allowed 4 hours to normalize before any rotation. Always refer to the seal manufacturer's instructions; this procedure is incorrect in the Bentley service manual.
Interesting.. don’t think it should cause too much of a problem using some oil to help guide them in
@@GeorgeAusters putting oil on them & they are guaranteed to leak. Ask me how I know.
@@superk4562 Why would oil make them leak?
Are you sure about your plastiguage measurement? It looks like you picked the wrong thickness for the general measurement.
Yes i'm sure. You measure the thickest parts. Nevertheless the journals all measured within spec with a micrometer which is much more accurate than plastigauge
@@GeorgeAusters I did engines back in high school and college so I do not remember seeing my gauge looking like a smear. That's why I asked because mine was always a line (like a bug that got squashed)
Shouldn’t double click a torque wrench.
Why not?
@@GeorgeAusters at such low torque you could inadvertently be adding more torque to the bolt by clicking it more than once.
It does rotate anymore, I’m just checking it’s torqued
George, I like this channel but, this is the most boring vision a engine rebuild I have seen, your not in a laboratory get on with it or we will be here at Xmas
Hmm.. Not quite sure I get what you mean by that.
Is it not better to be thorough when building an engine?
This video is good. Ignore him lol
Great video George. Really like the longer more in depth videos.
It's a great resource for anyone building a Prince engine. Brilliant attention to detail.
@@GeorgeAusters I really enjoyed it, don't feed the attention seeker