Hi Shane, yeah think this will be a good alternative to the original. As the video notes a power window motor was used by Kubota in the original setup to rotate the chute.
This video came up in my feed after cobbling together my own version. I never even thought of sourcing a factory bracket for the rotation control (mine didn't come with one). I love the ingenuity in your setup - use what you have and keep it simple. Thanks for posting this, great video!
You choice of power window motor is inspired. Nice work. I’m borrowing that idea, but will put the motor on my existing manual chute direction crank rod. Thanks for posting your video!
I did the same thing with my 50" snowblower, I went through 2 chute actuators but the 3rd one I bought was for a trim foil on a boat and that was 5 years ago and it works perfect still.. I also put a small piece of rubber mat that protects the whole actuator.
I know what you mean and I'm not sure if an alternative like that is readily available. I find that I don't have to move the tilt very often when snow blowing, more often than not I have it "wide open". I have a fairly large area so that is not generally a problem.
That's pretty cool. I have a landpride blower made more for a hydraulic cylinder. Thinking I might price the factory linear actuator kit for it. The hydraulic rotation kit was 600 bucks so if its that much I will engineer something like yours. I'm a stickler for drilling into my chute so first I will price out whats available factory.
How's she goin'? Nice job on the actuator Bob. That was a great description and it sure works some good eh!!! Like you say, maybe a bit slow, but I think it probably is fast enough. Nice job and well built too. Take care!!!
No problem at all. The motor is from a vehicle so that gives a lot of assurance regarding weather conditions and the open design keeps ice from accumulating on the screw.
Hey Bob looks great. Can you tell me how you wired this ? I have a window motor I'm trying to use for rotating the chute but when I flip switch the polarity to get the motor to spin backwards it tries to use the tractor as a ground and takes out the fuse. I used a battery separate from the tractor and it works perfect when I switch the polarity. I can't for the life of me figure out how to switch polarity and not have the motor try to ground out on the tractor. I may try making a connection between the motor shaft and the rotation shaft out of something that does not conduct electricity but I feel like others have not had to do this. Thanks Bob
The original wiring for the snowblower, done by the dealer, was not changed when I hooked this up. I just hooked the two wires to the new window motor and everything worked fine. Wonder if you could electrically isolate your window motor from the chassis of the snowblower. Maybe by wrapping it in rubber much as shown in the video but done so that the motor is electrically separated from the snowblower ground? You perhaps use nylon bushings or an insulating coupler to isolate the drive screw.
Add the limit switches. I'm in industrial control and know that relying on a human to stop it in time every time is futile. It will be inadvertently left on by somebody sooner or later. Your power switch could fail as well where it won't turn off and your limit switches will save the device as well.
I did consider a limit switch but because of the short ON time and the fact that the toggle switches are spring loaded it was not necessary. Good suggestion though.
Also see this video on how to replace your linear actuator ruclips.net/video/6AJ-86hcvTU/видео.html
My Brother used a Power Window Motor to turn the Shoot. He said it works Great. Thanks for Sharing Bob.
Hi Shane, yeah think this will be a good alternative to the original. As the video notes a power window motor was used by Kubota in the original setup to rotate the chute.
This video came up in my feed after cobbling together my own version. I never even thought of sourcing a factory bracket for the rotation control (mine didn't come with one). I love the ingenuity in your setup - use what you have and keep it simple. Thanks for posting this, great video!
Thanks. I'm pleased with it so far... another year of testing coming up soon.
You choice of power window motor is inspired. Nice work. I’m borrowing that idea, but will put the motor on my existing manual chute direction crank rod. Thanks for posting your video!
Thanks and good luck with your design.
Thanks Just the solution to power my snowblower’s chute.
Beautiful job! I think I have a couple power window motors in my dead pickup.
Yeah that is the way to do it. I haven't checked with used auto parts people yet but that is where I would go if I didn't have one. Thanks.
I did the same thing with my 50" snowblower, I went through 2 chute actuators but the 3rd one I bought was for a trim foil on a boat and that was 5 years ago and it works perfect still.. I also put a small piece of rubber mat that protects the whole actuator.
Great idea Bob. I’ve got two throwers I have to something with some day on the deflectors.
Go for it!
I used and acme thread from and old C clamp. Cut the female thread off the clamp also. Works fast also
That's a good, and better, idea.
Great job! I wonder if there are rods with like a worm drive. The thread pitch is like 1 every 1/4 inch so would move the deflector faster
I know what you mean and I'm not sure if an alternative like that is readily available. I find that I don't have to move the tilt very often when snow blowing, more often than not I have it "wide open". I have a fairly large area so that is not generally a problem.
That's pretty cool. I have a landpride blower made more for a hydraulic cylinder. Thinking I might price the factory linear actuator kit for it. The hydraulic rotation kit was 600 bucks so if its that much I will engineer something like yours. I'm a stickler for drilling into my chute so first I will price out whats available factory.
Thanks, yes I believe this one should hold up better than the standard linear actuators. A lot cheaper too.
How's she goin'? Nice job on the actuator Bob. That was a great description and it sure works some good eh!!! Like you say, maybe a bit slow, but I think it probably is fast enough. Nice job and well built too. Take care!!!
Thanks Grampie - yes I am pleased with it and think it will last for some time.
Replace the threaded rod with a lead screw form Temu - dirt sheap.
How’s that work when it freezes up in the winter?
No problem at all. The motor is from a vehicle so that gives a lot of assurance regarding weather conditions and the open design keeps ice from accumulating on the screw.
Hey Bob looks great.
Can you tell me how you wired this ? I have a window motor I'm trying to use for rotating the chute but when I flip switch the polarity to get the motor to spin backwards it tries to use the tractor as a ground and takes out the fuse. I used a battery separate from the tractor and it works perfect when I switch the polarity.
I can't for the life of me figure out how to switch polarity and not have the motor try to ground out on the tractor.
I may try making a connection between the motor shaft and the rotation shaft out of something that does not conduct electricity but I feel like others have not had to do this.
Thanks Bob
The original wiring for the snowblower, done by the dealer, was not changed when I hooked this up. I just hooked the two wires to the new window motor and everything worked fine. Wonder if you could electrically isolate your window motor from the chassis of the snowblower. Maybe by wrapping it in rubber much as shown in the video but done so that the motor is electrically separated from the snowblower ground? You perhaps use nylon bushings or an insulating coupler to isolate the drive screw.
you need a reversing polarity switch. i found them on amazon. that should solve your problem
Add the limit switches. I'm in industrial control and know that relying on a human to stop it in time every time is futile. It will be inadvertently left on by somebody sooner or later. Your power switch could fail as well where it won't turn off and your limit switches will save the device as well.
I did consider a limit switch but because of the short ON time and the fact that the toggle switches are spring loaded it was not necessary. Good suggestion though.