This is a great tutorial! You take time to show people how to manage screws which not many videos do. Beginner modders don't always think of that and lose screws often.
Mixing leadded with lead-free solder can be tricky. If you're not careful to completely mix them, there will eventually be cracks in the joints due to the different metal mixes heating and cooling at different rates. It is best to use lead-free solder for these newer consoles to be sure this doesn't happen. Otherwise, thanks for the tutorial since this is something I've been needing to do and the info/process is really nice to have.
Install the EMMC onto the Picofly first, then connect the flex cable. And you don't actually need to cut the heat shield at all for V1 or V2 Switches. Just slide the Picofly through the fan hole very carefully. There is enough clearance there. The housing should fit just fine.
Does it make the back cover bulge out at all? Also what did you use to mount the modchip to the heat shield piece that wasnt too thick like double sided tape i think might be.. I dont have anymore Kapton tape right now either..
For the metal shield cutting bit, what you can do is cut a longer strip of tape and tape it to the mod chip so it goes down and is visible, then just cut that same size and then remove the tape or shorten it, flip it, do whatever you want with it. Obviously you'll have to be careful when removing since the chip is free to move around and you don't wanna break a connection or something but I think it'll make it look better the closer the cut is to the size of the chip's plate
I am very new to this. I am a 16 year old girl, who just wants more characters on smash. Prior to the hour of research i did, i had no idea what any tech words meant. I have never done any electrical or soldering work in my life. I look up a tutorial for modding my switch. Tut says i need a switch that isnt patched. I check my switch, its v2. I buy a cheap modchip off ali express, wait for it to come, dissasemble my switch and two of the screws wont come out. I have accidentally stripped them, trying desperately to unscrew them. I literally pry the back of the switch off, which to my surprise works and doesnt snap the plastic cover. I soldered the v2 thingy on, added the mod chip, turn it on and it works (kinda, i need to reassemble and add sd card but it works). I am an athiest, but i pray to god thanking him that i dont need to program the modchip. Am currently waiting for thermal paste to arrive. Thank you, you amazing person, for this video tutorial.
I hope everything goes well, I'm tryna buy a modchip too for some smash mods. I have a more technical friend who can hopefully help me out but it's definitely worrying if you mess anything up
I'm surprised that you didn't destroy those caps and the ribbon connector with the thousand times you went over them. There is no need to put so much heat on each end of those caps.
Please also if doing anything inside the console disconnect the battery. You dont want any shorts to happen or you could potentially turn your switch into a brick!
That paper method is actually a great idea for long term projects that might have the screws out for awhile as well as repairing stuff like in this video.. Great video btw!
thank you so much, just followed this video and i managed to do it successfully in like 20 minutes, and its the second time ive ever soldered anything before!!!!
Do you have a microscope? I'm scared of watching how tiny things are. I'm relaying on my watcher lens. Still waiting for the picofly to arrive. I'm eager to start.
@ nope, sounds stupid but i literally just did it by doing it and checking every few seconds with my phone and my eyes, my iphone has a macro mode so i just put it really close and looked at it like that. if yours doesn't have a macro mode, set it to 0.5 ultra wide and put it really close it should also work.
for these soldering jobs I can really suggest you the TS80P soldering iron with the J02 soldering tip. Its slightly angled and really nice working under a microscope. Tip size diameter is 0.2mm
Great video. Made it look easy. I find it helpful that you mention the price too. 30 minutes to install. Wow. Thanks to this video I can confirm that I'll just be emulating on my gaming PC instead.
@20:15 IF YOU'RE TROUBLESHOOTING AND WONDERING WHY ITS BOOTING TO THE NINTENDO SCREEN INSTEAD OF THE MODCHIP: please also be aware that aside from the potential mod chip not being pre-flashed (which i believe is rare), it can also be that the switch isn't detecting the modchip (make sure theres enough space and not too much pressure where the mod chip is installed to prevent the connections from acting up (the pressure and screw and partial reassembly can also cause this (though in this videos case, it didn't). Really your soldering connections should look good and flush to avoid this, but just incase... I was wondering why mine kept booting to nintendo instead of the modchip whenever i'd power it on. And that was why. Make sure the connections are solid as well!
@@languidcreature2345 Well check with a multimeter on continuity mode first after the chip install. Check all newly soldered points. Once you'll be ok in terms of the connection. But again if there's too much pressure or not enough room for the modchip you may have to carefully clip the apu bracket to let the ribbon cable have space. And the mod chip you will have to cut the metal back shield as he shows here. maybe dont tighten the screws as tight if you have problems. i did!
Just to add some clarity some v1 switches came patched. Easiest way to find out if you have v1 or v2 is to look on back of console just above the usb port. The model number printed there determines if you have a v1 or v2 V1 = hac-001 whereas v2 = hac-001(-01)
Despite my comment, thank you for the comprehensive overview, plan to install mine tonight. Flashed the modchip already in preparation for the bigger job tonight 😬🤞
For this modchip, patched or not, it works on either. Easiest way to find out imo is checking the serial number online, it is well documented. For reference some V1's that are patched still have the original model number, so it is not foolproof to go by model number.
THANK YOU my dad did the soldering and now i have lineageos, linux, and also the nintendo switch official software, I also have lots of games because i pirated them, GREATT tutorial
@@fazemoti2755 The thing is, you dont! Anyways look for tutorials on how to get them like i got lineageos 21 with android 14 with a tutorial also ubuntu unity with a tutorial
He's really making it difficult at 12:30 by doing a coldjoint, chances of frying the resistors are very high. The proper way is to tin the resistors with solder, tin the flex cable. This way you have two points that can join more easily. Then wipe off the flux with alcohol, reapply a toothpick amount to each and it should go right in. Now the lite and OLED, different story..
Agreed, no clue how I managed but had no flux but managed to solder the pins.... thanks to this guy I was bored and ordered the kit from Ali express for less than £7 lol really shocked it works lol
Seems extremely doable. On the other hand, while seeing the tutorial, at the timestamp 27:34 it felt a bit worrying that the cable coming behind the shield would be pinched. It's a matter of perspective, or perhaps should it be recommendable to trimming the shield a bit more?
I've also noticed this, and while it hasn't caused any problems on my console, it feels a bit off. The issue arises with the heatsink because cutting the metal shield any further would disrupt where the heatsink contacts the shield.
@@TheModSmith perhaps bending that part up and then adding something soft as padding. Nonetheless, if it doesn't puncture the ribbon cable, that shouldn't be an issue, init?
Little tip about the thermal paste (i been building pc's for over 20 years) only use a small pea sized amount at most because if you put too much on it lessens the conductivity of the heat and then you get less heat dispersion. Some people might be picky as you suggest, but honestly what you put on in this clip is far to much, not saying this to be picky like some, but as a genuine tip cos the rest of the clip was good, im gonna be doing my first attempt at modding the switch soon so was a good clip for instructions.
Considering there's no IHS (Direct die contact), more is better as long as it isn't a ridiculous amount since you want to be 100% sure the entire die is covered.
@@tpf92 i mean when it is assembled and compressed don't forget though the paste spreads out significantly a small amount goes a long long way once compressed as i say though people will have different experiences too :) so not judging or nothing just adding to the conversation from my own experience
There are like a billion videos proving you wrong at this point. Doing something for 20 years isn't evidence that your right, you've just been doing it wrong for 20 years. Anyway, that's why he said what he said.
@@tpf92 20 years ago it wasn't standard to have an IHS, which is where the pea sized amount rule started because too much = uneven contact if you've ever relid a chip u know its even more valid, but the switch chip isn't super high on thermals so you can get away with a lil muddddd
If the heat shield were embossed with the shape of the chip plate you wouldn't need to cut it , just fill the gaps with thermal paste, screw down and an outer layer of tape for case pressure
15:05 his soldering kept getting too me, he had it done but kept having to touch it up and making it worse like you had it perfect but kept redoing it and redoing it
I solder 0803 and 0602 with a normal tip without issues. Size doesn’t matter for the tip, it does for your solder you want to have thin as possible solder. Or just use some paste.
Cool stuff. Have you tried a chisel tip? Someone recommended it to me some time ago, and after giving it a try on a few soldering I just could go back. It makes it easier to do good soldering points, at least for me, is the good in general. Anyway, I'm now considering cracking open my switch.
U think i do not notice, that you did cut out one part of the video in the end. Where you had to unscrew one inner metal plate screw down left where the sd card reader is supposed to be. I am paying attention!!!
Keep your screws in your I fix it tray put it on the paper and draw arrows pointing to what square the screws are in and write what part of the switch.
@TheModSmith do you know where to get an original fan for the Switch V1? I bought one from Aliexpress and this was permanently on full speed. My fan makes some noises ...
So does this allow you to play downloaded Switch-games as if they were purchased? I collect so piracy isn't my main aim but this solution is what I'm after (to not have to bring my physical games with me outside when I go for trips).
Great video thanks. The chip worked for 2 days. Now it looks like it is no longer receiving any power supply. The LED is off. The switch boots directly into the stock firmware. The soldering points actually look good visually. Where does the chip get its power from? Do you have any idea
I tried to solder as novice and I lost the left capacitor from the chip the nitendo switch seems to be working fine after i removed the tape and the modded chip but I guess this one is a failure unless I could solder back the capacitor or could i bridge them without it just from the tape?
I wish I had watched this video instead of the v1 modchip install. I had the same issue you had at the 20:00 mark. And kept assuming I didn't have the capacitors connected properly. And ended up with one of the capacitors popping off.
hmm, if i pull mod chip off switch boots normaly, with mod chip insalled it boots to NO SD CARD screen, if i press power buttion just seems to turn off
@@TheModSmith easer said than done, i got it were it will boot the simi custom firmware but gets errors on the regualr CFW option. im switching over to a genuine sandisk micro SD and seenig if maby the china card is making this go screwy, i even got tinfoil to open in simi custom firmware but no tiles launch and the installer crashes the "game"
I'm a dumb ass when you said the metal shield needs to be popped off my brain heard pop off the emmc so I destroyed it in a matter of seconds am I screwed? I already ordered a new one
I have to say watching you soldering hurt me in a way that words cannot express. With that said you did ok dude but my god so many little solder balls made it everywhere in the process.
I modded my switch lite like 2 years ago. Have had a blast with it playing emulators/rom hacks/ etc. etc. Since I never had any issues getting banned on my switch lite I decided to order a RP2040 kit for my V1 patched switch. That was literally the week Mario Wonder released and I had a physical copy that I had already played multi hours on my V1 switch. I decided to pop the game cart into my switch lite and when the game booted it started auto updating without me hitting anything. Needless to say my switch lite is now banned... So now I've just been sitting on this RP2040 mod because I'm too afraid I'm gonna get my OG switch banned if I mod it too.
You should never, ever use a cartridge from a Switch that is not modded, on another Switch that is. That's an instant ban. The cartridges have a special key that they synchronize with the first Switch where they are used, and if you try to put that cartridge that is synchronized in a modded Switch, there you will have the ban that you got... I say that you can mod your Switch V1 without problem, the problem is the cartridges
@@lantonicorporation How does that prevent you from getting banned? I was using emunand. So if I restore it from the backup I made before setting up emunand will that fix my online ban issue???
@@lantonicorporation Ah just grabbed my switch and checked... I was thinking of the emuMMC. But after doing some research I might still be able to save my switch lite. Doing some digging on emuNAND too so I might end up modding my other switch too after all. Thank you for the advice BTW!
I got stuck, when trying to start the console it just boots to the ofw. When trying to open the folder on pc it shows the folder briefly with the files needed inside and then closes again. But not at all times, most of the times it just doesn't show anything.I get no led signals either. I watched the video a few times as well. Am I doing something wrong?
Hey, can you guys help me? I was playing in my switch and suddently turned off, now it wont turn on..my hwfly when tries to turn on, indicates a BLUE led and then flashes twice Green
Awesome Video!! It would just be easier if I fly you out to do my install. I don't want just any Joe Schmo doing the install. I need experience. LMK if you want take a short vacay. I'll pay lol 😂💯
Maybe it would've been a better idea to slide the module on the fan opening of the shield and mark to cut only were the flat flex is? That way, the heatshield will hold the module in place and you don't have to add extra tape.
I’ve got the mod chip ready for my switch. Unfortunately my display connector on my motherboard is broken, so I can only use my switch docked. Does the switch display a signal while being docked and booted into the new menu?
Thinking about modding my switch since i have a more recent version and I would need to do the whole mod chip installation but I've never worked with saudering tools before so this is where I'm a little hesitant on doing this in the first place if there are any recommendations you could share on what tools you'd recommend someone like me to use as a first timer that would be great! Thanks for the detailed guide I wouldn't even know how to unscrew all the right screws without this one.
i have 2 modchips that dont flash any light when putting thuf2 on there, on ei installed the chip entirely and it goes to OFW. assuming the uf2 isnt getting loaded wtf
Do you actually need that metal plate on the back of the switch. I have a clear back shell and am thinking of modding my switch with this and want to know if the metal plate can be removed to see the internals of the console
Now I realize, that v1/v2 much easier among them. Because I actually mod for the first time was the oled one. thnks my operation was successful. I have made mistake for several projects, and now I am very passionate to childhood dream.
You made a real hash of that, you shouldn't of pre-tinned the cpu cable, no need. There was enough solder to repair the london bridge. You sure your used to soldering?
Very good video, just what Ive been looking for. 2 questions, 1. do you need a microscope for the soldering? 2 what temp on the solder iron did you use?
I highly recommend using a microscope for this installation, especially due to the small size of the capacitors. I personally use 420 degrees Celsius on my iron, although some suggest temperatures closer to 360.
Trying to figure it out: A switch oled with a Picofly rp2040 ... running a-ok on emulated size hekate and normal side. Should you avoid 100% updating the switch firmware itself, or is it OK, or what special methods are needed? I'm wanting to play my physical game cartridges online while booted into stock/semi stock mode , but it keeps asking for the software/firmware of switch to be updated first.... Thanks!
As long as you keep Atmosphere and Hekate up-to-date, it's fine to update the Switch. The modchip interrupts the boot process before any updatable code gets run.
As long as you keep Atmosphere and Hekate up-to-date, it's fine to update the Switch. The modchip interrupts the boot process before any updatable code gets run.
I would like to suggest listing all of the tools required for this at the beginning of the video. I went through step by step until you started soldering stuff. I am new to this and was not aware I needed this tool. Unfortunately it wasted my time until I can get around to getting a soldering kit and learning how to use it.
I’d always recommend watching the video in full before following the guide yourself, especially with an install like this. In terms of tools, it’s just a soldering iron, solder, flux, and some tweezers.
im happy that the soldering is messy because that's more realistic of my skills.
Lmao I can't even solder I just think it's cool to watch.
😂
Is it just me or is soldering just the most unnecessary primitive nonsense in electronics these days...
@@JPs-q1oit’s just you
@@JPs-q1o Nope. Things should be attachable by 2025. We're just late.
This is a great tutorial! You take time to show people how to manage screws which not many videos do. Beginner modders don't always think of that and lose screws often.
Thanks for the nice comment, I’m glad you liked the video!
@@TheModSmith It was all fine and dandy until you started cutting and drifted into redneck repair territory with all that tape. 😉
That's why you get a magnet screw/planner pad with dry erase marker.
Mixing leadded with lead-free solder can be tricky. If you're not careful to completely mix them, there will eventually be cracks in the joints due to the different metal mixes heating and cooling at different rates. It is best to use lead-free solder for these newer consoles to be sure this doesn't happen.
Otherwise, thanks for the tutorial since this is something I've been needing to do and the info/process is really nice to have.
Professor Snape is teaching me how to mod my nintendo switch. how cool is that
😂😂😂😂
Sounds like Thor
Install the EMMC onto the Picofly first, then connect the flex cable. And you don't actually need to cut the heat shield at all for V1 or V2 Switches. Just slide the Picofly through the fan hole very carefully. There is enough clearance there. The housing should fit just fine.
Same thing I thought it is possible. I'll order my picofly and do it myself.
ill get rid of the sheet alltogether, it doesnt cool anything anyway, its just for radiation protection to pass the certifications
@CrisCheese_ you should look up what a heat shield does mate. It's there for a reason. It transfers heat away from the cpu and spreads it out.
Does it make the back cover bulge out at all? Also what did you use to mount the modchip to the heat shield piece that wasnt too thick like double sided tape i think might be.. I dont have anymore Kapton tape right now either..
For the metal shield cutting bit, what you can do is cut a longer strip of tape and tape it to the mod chip so it goes down and is visible, then just cut that same size and then remove the tape or shorten it, flip it, do whatever you want with it. Obviously you'll have to be careful when removing since the chip is free to move around and you don't wanna break a connection or something but I think it'll make it look better the closer the cut is to the size of the chip's plate
You can use Kapton tape to stabilize the flex cable as you solder it
Or solder the ground pads if you don't have any
That was my first thought and I actually went and ordered some
I’m glad you didn’t have trouble with the bat tree or soul der
😂
sodder 🏈 Yeehaw!!
is it spelled solder or sodder
@@Lumix_Corrupt solder
@@mememachine269 correct, so it should be pronounced that way
I am very new to this. I am a 16 year old girl, who just wants more characters on smash. Prior to the hour of research i did, i had no idea what any tech words meant. I have never done any electrical or soldering work in my life. I look up a tutorial for modding my switch. Tut says i need a switch that isnt patched. I check my switch, its v2. I buy a cheap modchip off ali express, wait for it to come, dissasemble my switch and two of the screws wont come out. I have accidentally stripped them, trying desperately to unscrew them. I literally pry the back of the switch off, which to my surprise works and doesnt snap the plastic cover. I soldered the v2 thingy on, added the mod chip, turn it on and it works (kinda, i need to reassemble and add sd card but it works). I am an athiest, but i pray to god thanking him that i dont need to program the modchip. Am currently waiting for thermal paste to arrive. Thank you, you amazing person, for this video tutorial.
I hope everything goes well, I'm tryna buy a modchip too for some smash mods. I have a more technical friend who can hopefully help me out but it's definitely worrying if you mess anything up
Just modded my V2 switch using this guide! It was practice for my Zelda OLED switch. Wish me luck!
Well done and good luck! 🙂
I'm surprised that you didn't destroy those caps and the ribbon connector with the thousand times you went over them. There is no need to put so much heat on each end of those caps.
i was just waiting for him to lift the cap lol
Finally something comprehensive! I'll give it a try tomorrow
Good luck!
@@TheModSmith itll work with any official firmware? I'm on 15.0.1
@@QTheMostThe latest firmware is 18.0.0 and is supported, so you can go ahead and update.
@@TheModSmith awesome thanks
@@TheModSmith god damn i didnt realize how small the caps were.. one came off right away...
Please also if doing anything inside the console disconnect the battery. You dont want any shorts to happen or you could potentially turn your switch into a brick!
That paper method is actually a great idea for long term projects that might have the screws out for awhile as well as repairing stuff like in this video.. Great video btw!
Egg boxes are really useful for those screws, etc. And some labels if need be.
thank you so much, just followed this video and i managed to do it successfully in like 20 minutes, and its the second time ive ever soldered anything before!!!!
Do you have a microscope? I'm scared of watching how tiny things are. I'm relaying on my watcher lens.
Still waiting for the picofly to arrive. I'm eager to start.
@ nope, sounds stupid but i literally just did it by doing it and checking every few seconds with my phone and my eyes, my iphone has a macro mode so i just put it really close and looked at it like that. if yours doesn't have a macro mode, set it to 0.5 ultra wide and put it really close it should also work.
for these soldering jobs I can really suggest you the TS80P soldering iron with the J02 soldering tip. Its slightly angled and really nice working under a microscope. Tip size diameter is 0.2mm
For those unable to connect to the pc, you should try to connect the cable to the pc while holding the button on the modchip
Great video. Made it look easy. I find it helpful that you mention the price too. 30 minutes to install. Wow. Thanks to this video I can confirm that I'll just be emulating on my gaming PC instead.
I was able to install the chip this friday :)
Congratulations!
@@TheModSmith Thank you.
@20:15 IF YOU'RE TROUBLESHOOTING AND WONDERING WHY ITS BOOTING TO THE NINTENDO SCREEN INSTEAD OF THE MODCHIP:
please also be aware that aside from the potential mod chip not being pre-flashed (which i believe is rare), it can also be that the switch isn't detecting the modchip (make sure theres enough space and not too much pressure where the mod chip is installed to prevent the connections from acting up (the pressure and screw and partial reassembly can also cause this (though in this videos case, it didn't). Really your soldering connections should look good and flush to avoid this, but just incase... I was wondering why mine kept booting to nintendo instead of the modchip whenever i'd power it on. And that was why. Make sure the connections are solid as well!
How you know when they’re solid?
@@languidcreature2345 Well check with a multimeter on continuity mode first after the chip install. Check all newly soldered points. Once you'll be ok in terms of the connection. But again if there's too much pressure or not enough room for the modchip you may have to carefully clip the apu bracket to let the ribbon cable have space. And the mod chip you will have to cut the metal back shield as he shows here. maybe dont tighten the screws as tight if you have problems. i did!
Hey mate! Installed today and worked a treat! Cheers!
Congratulations!
Just to add some clarity some v1 switches came patched. Easiest way to find out if you have v1 or v2 is to look on back of console just above the usb port. The model number printed there determines if you have a v1 or v2
V1 = hac-001 whereas v2 = hac-001(-01)
Despite my comment, thank you for the comprehensive overview, plan to install mine tonight. Flashed the modchip already in preparation for the bigger job tonight 😬🤞
Ah yes, thanks for making me aware of this! Good luck with your install, I hope it goes well.
@@TheModSmith me too, hit a snag where one tri wing got stripped, had to drill it out 😱 but it went well
For this modchip, patched or not, it works on either. Easiest way to find out imo is checking the serial number online, it is well documented. For reference some V1's that are patched still have the original model number, so it is not foolproof to go by model number.
I was software updating my switch quite a bit but it's hac-001 so idk if it's patched or not lol
THANK YOU my dad did the soldering and now i have lineageos, linux, and also the nintendo switch official software, I also have lots of games because i pirated them, GREATT tutorial
how do you get all of those on the sd card and how do you boot back to the normal switch
@@fazemoti2755 The thing is, you dont! Anyways look for tutorials on how to get them like i got lineageos 21 with android 14 with a tutorial also ubuntu unity with a tutorial
He's really making it difficult at 12:30 by doing a coldjoint, chances of frying the resistors are very high. The proper way is to tin the resistors with solder, tin the flex cable. This way you have two points that can join more easily. Then wipe off the flux with alcohol, reapply a toothpick amount to each and it should go right in.
Now the lite and OLED, different story..
This was my first V2 install, I agree it could be better. I just did an OLED and posted the video yesterday too.
Way too much Flux and way too much solder you maniac
Agreed, no clue how I managed but had no flux but managed to solder the pins.... thanks to this guy I was bored and ordered the kit from Ali express for less than £7 lol really shocked it works lol
😮😮 16:06
💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦
@@lewisviper glad it worked man. what kinda soldering iron and solder did you use? gonna give it a crack
There is no such thing as too much flux... well, unless you're reballing. Yes, way too much solder, and those are the coldest joints I've seen
Just modded my first Switch! This tutorial helped a lot, thanks a bunch!
Were the steps still up to date?
@@Cheesepizza222yea it same for v2
@@pracalt1051 just wondering, does your serial no. start with XKW?
@@nmargono for modchip it doesn’t matter what serial your switch has
It will work
Hell it will work even with v1
Seems extremely doable. On the other hand, while seeing the tutorial, at the timestamp 27:34 it felt a bit worrying that the cable coming behind the shield would be pinched. It's a matter of perspective, or perhaps should it be recommendable to trimming the shield a bit more?
I've also noticed this, and while it hasn't caused any problems on my console, it feels a bit off. The issue arises with the heatsink because cutting the metal shield any further would disrupt where the heatsink contacts the shield.
@@TheModSmith perhaps bending that part up and then adding something soft as padding. Nonetheless, if it doesn't puncture the ribbon cable, that shouldn't be an issue, init?
Please make an OLED turorial 🙏 your guides are so well done
Coming soon!
Your video gives me hope that I will be too able to mod my switch. The amateur video style makes it look pretty achievable
As a first time solderer I can confirm that if this guy can do it you can to
Little tip about the thermal paste (i been building pc's for over 20 years) only use a small pea sized amount at most because if you put too much on it lessens the conductivity of the heat and then you get less heat dispersion. Some people might be picky as you suggest, but honestly what you put on in this clip is far to much, not saying this to be picky like some, but as a genuine tip cos the rest of the clip was good, im gonna be doing my first attempt at modding the switch soon so was a good clip for instructions.
Considering there's no IHS (Direct die contact), more is better as long as it isn't a ridiculous amount since you want to be 100% sure the entire die is covered.
@@tpf92 i mean when it is assembled and compressed don't forget though the paste spreads out significantly a small amount goes a long long way once compressed as i say though people will have different experiences too :) so not judging or nothing just adding to the conversation from my own experience
There are like a billion videos proving you wrong at this point. Doing something for 20 years isn't evidence that your right, you've just been doing it wrong for 20 years.
Anyway, that's why he said what he said.
@@tpf92 20 years ago it wasn't standard to have an IHS, which is where the pea sized amount rule started because too much = uneven contact if you've ever relid a chip u know its even more valid, but the switch chip isn't super high on thermals so you can get away with a lil muddddd
If the heat shield were embossed with the shape of the chip plate you wouldn't need to cut it , just fill the gaps with thermal paste, screw down and an outer layer of tape for case pressure
pretty difficult but it worked, tysm!!!
15:05 his soldering kept getting too me, he had it done but kept having to touch it up and making it worse like you had it perfect but kept redoing it and redoing it
Small pill organizer, with some foam cut to fit, is a good way to save your pieces in the event you can't finish in one go?
You sound like Thor. Btw, I think you did a great job 💪
It would be very helpful, more control, and more accurate if you have a fine tip for the solder iron.
I solder 0803 and 0602 with a normal tip without issues.
Size doesn’t matter for the tip, it does for your solder you want to have thin as possible solder. Or just use some paste.
Nice Job! Thanks for sharing. Can you explain again how you switch the FW at the end and start the OFW without an SD card? Many thanks!
Cool stuff.
Have you tried a chisel tip? Someone recommended it to me some time ago, and after giving it a try on a few soldering I just could go back. It makes it easier to do good soldering points, at least for me, is the good in general.
Anyway, I'm now considering cracking open my switch.
U think i do not notice, that you did cut out one part of the video in the end. Where you had to unscrew one inner metal plate screw down left where the sd card reader is supposed to be. I am paying attention!!!
You had it at the beginning. Gotta learn just leave it once it's on there. I'm a perfectionist too. But with stuff this small, it's impossible
wow this is such a great video! think im going to give it a shot
Good luck!
for anyone curious: Y00 screws on ninty consoles work better with Y000 bits, so just default to the Y000 bits
Just curious, what temperature are you using on your iron here? Also, what kind of solder?
I solder at 420 degrees as I’m quite fast, although people recommend lower temperatures near 340 degrees. I also use 60/40 tin lead solder.
What happens if the sp2 chip was disconnected, can I still mod it? Been getting this color code. One Blue, 2 Long yellow with a short yellow
Everybody's so creative!
Keep your screws in your I fix it tray put it on the paper and draw arrows pointing to what square the screws are in and write what part of the switch.
I opened it and the screen went blue.
You might have f* it man. Make sure GPU is alive
Maybe u need firmware to be flashed
skill issue
Skill issue
@@user4gent416😂
@TheModSmith do you know where to get an original fan for the Switch V1? I bought one from Aliexpress and this was permanently on full speed. My fan makes some noises ...
So does this allow you to play downloaded Switch-games as if they were purchased? I collect so piracy isn't my main aim but this solution is what I'm after (to not have to bring my physical games with me outside when I go for trips).
Great video thanks. The chip worked for 2 days. Now it looks like it is no longer receiving any power supply. The LED is off. The switch boots directly into the stock firmware. The soldering points actually look good visually. Where does the chip get its power from? Do you have any idea
I tried to solder as novice and I lost the left capacitor from the chip the nitendo switch seems to be working fine after i removed the tape and the modded chip but I guess this one is a failure unless I could solder back the capacitor or could i bridge them without it just from the tape?
I wish I had watched this video instead of the v1 modchip install. I had the same issue you had at the 20:00 mark. And kept assuming I didn't have the capacitors connected properly. And ended up with one of the capacitors popping off.
Do you have a link to the item you bought, i searched on aliexpress, but none of the sellers have any reviews and I dont trust it
Can't connect modchip to pc. I connect using a USB cable and nothing happens
Make sure ur using a datacable
Wow amazing lil bro 😢😂❤
clear flux thats injected? thats something i have never seen either of.
Hi, what is the temp. that you use for soldering?
hmm, if i pull mod chip off switch boots normaly, with mod chip insalled it boots to NO SD CARD screen, if i press power buttion just seems to turn off
You've done everything correctly. Now you just need a microSD card with Atmosphere and Hekate on it.
@@TheModSmith easer said than done, i got it were it will boot the simi custom firmware but gets errors on the regualr CFW option. im switching over to a genuine sandisk micro SD and seenig if maby the china card is making this go screwy, i even got tinfoil to open in simi custom firmware but no tiles launch and the installer crashes the "game"
I'm a dumb ass when you said the metal shield needs to be popped off my brain heard pop off the emmc so I destroyed it in a matter of seconds am I screwed? I already ordered a new one
Screws stripped from the bit that literally came with the kit. Awesome! Now i cant ever get into it 👍
I have to say watching you soldering hurt me in a way that words cannot express. With that said you did ok dude but my god so many little solder balls made it everywhere in the process.
I’m still young and learning, just documenting my experience! 😊
It scared the fuc out of me my heart was racing the whole time like watching a horror movie
What soldering station/iron do you use?
I modded my switch lite like 2 years ago. Have had a blast with it playing emulators/rom hacks/ etc. etc. Since I never had any issues getting banned on my switch lite I decided to order a RP2040 kit for my V1 patched switch. That was literally the week Mario Wonder released and I had a physical copy that I had already played multi hours on my V1 switch. I decided to pop the game cart into my switch lite and when the game booted it started auto updating without me hitting anything. Needless to say my switch lite is now banned... So now I've just been sitting on this RP2040 mod because I'm too afraid I'm gonna get my OG switch banned if I mod it too.
You should never, ever use a cartridge from a Switch that is not modded, on another Switch that is. That's an instant ban.
The cartridges have a special key that they synchronize with the first Switch where they are used, and if you try to put that cartridge that is synchronized in a modded Switch, there you will have the ban that you got...
I say that you can mod your Switch V1 without problem, the problem is the cartridges
Use emunand!!!
@@lantonicorporation How does that prevent you from getting banned? I was using emunand. So if I restore it from the backup I made before setting up emunand will that fix my online ban issue???
@@lantonicorporation Ah just grabbed my switch and checked... I was thinking of the emuMMC. But after doing some research I might still be able to save my switch lite. Doing some digging on emuNAND too so I might end up modding my other switch too after all. Thank you for the advice BTW!
So once it’s installed can I jailbreak it or will I need to flash something before being installed?
I got stuck, when trying to start the console it just boots to the ofw. When trying to open the folder on pc it shows the folder briefly with the files needed inside and then closes again. But not at all times, most of the times it just doesn't show anything.I get no led signals either.
I watched the video a few times as well. Am I doing something wrong?
thanks for the video and your help
So what does this mean do you still need the mig chip or can it all be done via sd card nw
How much W/°C/°F did you use while soldering?
Why there's a video cut during using voltmeter!?
Bro Can you give me a link to buy the supplies except for the iron, hwfly used in the video?
What is the score and are you going to do a mod for the OLED version?
Do you know the difference between "New2040Plus" and "RP2040-NS" on the RP2040 PCB?
does it matter which modchip i install ? does it need to be the picofly ? or is just any good ?
Hey, can you guys help me? I was playing in my switch and suddently turned off, now it wont turn on..my hwfly when tries to turn on, indicates a BLUE led and then flashes twice Green
You say press power buttons to go into offical software. So can you swotch between modded and non modded?
Awesome Video!! It would just be easier if I fly you out to do my install. I don't want just any Joe Schmo doing the install. I need experience. LMK if you want take a short vacay. I'll pay lol 😂💯
Would this boot without the original mmc chip?
Maybe it would've been a better idea to slide the module on the fan opening of the shield and mark to cut only were the flat flex is? That way, the heatshield will hold the module in place and you don't have to add extra tape.
how do u flash the uf2 file? im a newbie for switch but not androids and iphones when jailbreaking and rooting
In reality, it makes you cringe but is completely fine, that cable usually doesn’t sustain damage from that.
Link to purchase?
One day i will return to this video and actually do this!
I’ve got the mod chip ready for my switch. Unfortunately my display connector on my motherboard is broken, so I can only use my switch docked. Does the switch display a signal while being docked and booted into the new menu?
Thinking about modding my switch since i have a more recent version and I would need to do the whole mod chip installation but I've never worked with saudering tools before so this is where I'm a little hesitant on doing this in the first place if there are any recommendations you could share on what tools you'd recommend someone like me to use as a first timer that would be great! Thanks for the detailed guide I wouldn't even know how to unscrew all the right screws without this one.
I’m wondering the same things I’m new to it and everyone keeps saying sell my current one and just buy an unpatched one have you found anything?
They're probably saying that because of the difficulty of the modchip install.
Great video. Quick question. Is this for OLED version as well? Thank you!
This tutorial is only for the regular V2 switch consoles, OLED installs are much different and difficult.
i have 2 modchips that dont flash any light when putting thuf2 on there, on ei installed the chip entirely and it goes to OFW. assuming the uf2 isnt getting loaded wtf
what do i do if it dose not turn on after the v2 cable is soldered on( dose not turn on if i take it off ether)?
Nothing is turning on. As far as I cen tell Nothing is sodered together that should not be. Please help
Did you solve your problem?
Do you actually need that metal plate on the back of the switch. I have a clear back shell and am thinking of modding my switch with this and want to know if the metal plate can be removed to see the internals of the console
YES, yes you do.
@ thank you for the advice
@@Grenguy_ no problem, no need for someone ruining their switch unintentionally.
Every time cleaning the iron it comes back even more dirty and loaded wtf 😂
Thanks I did it once 🤭🤭🤭 I’m so grateful 😌
those flex cables are always so much harder to solder than it looks 🥲
Now I realize, that v1/v2 much easier among them. Because I actually mod for the first time was the oled one. thnks my operation was successful. I have made mistake for several projects, and now I am very passionate to childhood dream.
You made a real hash of that, you shouldn't of pre-tinned the cpu cable, no need. There was enough solder to repair the london bridge. You sure your used to soldering?
Is this the same process for the OLED models?
Very good video, just what Ive been looking for. 2 questions, 1. do you need a microscope for the soldering? 2 what temp on the solder iron did you use?
I highly recommend using a microscope for this installation, especially due to the small size of the capacitors. I personally use 420 degrees Celsius on my iron, although some suggest temperatures closer to 360.
@@TheModSmith Thank you for your reply. I just got the mod chip this week. Wish me luck lol
I managed with a headband magnifying glass but it involved a lot of eye strain lol.
Don't use too hot... The capacitor will come off
All I've got is a magnifying glass that's on my helping hands. Can't afford a microscope just for this.
Trying to figure it out:
A switch oled with a Picofly rp2040 ... running a-ok on emulated size hekate and normal side.
Should you avoid 100% updating the switch firmware itself, or is it OK, or what special methods are needed?
I'm wanting to play my physical game cartridges online while booted into stock/semi stock mode , but it keeps asking for the software/firmware of switch to be updated first....
Thanks!
As long as you keep Atmosphere and Hekate up-to-date, it's fine to update the Switch. The modchip interrupts the boot process before any updatable code gets run.
As long as you keep Atmosphere and Hekate up-to-date, it's fine to update the Switch. The modchip interrupts the boot process before any updatable code gets run.
I would like to suggest listing all of the tools required for this at the beginning of the video. I went through step by step until you started soldering stuff. I am new to this and was not aware I needed this tool. Unfortunately it wasted my time until I can get around to getting a soldering kit and learning how to use it.
I’d always recommend watching the video in full before following the guide yourself, especially with an install like this. In terms of tools, it’s just a soldering iron, solder, flux, and some tweezers.
Mine blinks blue and then green but doesn't say no sd card. It goes right to the switch screen. My switch is on firmware 19.0.0. is that normal?
One side wasn't touching. Finally says no sd card. Took me two mod chips and over 15 hrs between 3 days but it's connected
Hey i got a switch lite and I want to run this mod on is this possible
What size of iron tip you are using?