The 5 Peeee's DIY POWERWALL 2.0 ep2
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Today we are going over the Plan/Vision for the New LiFePO4 Powerwall 2.0, the 5 P's is what the Wifie like to say!! We are also going over some of the parts I purchased for the Project!
Affiliate Links to most of the items in this video that I purchased for this Project!⤵
🔗272ah Lishen bit.ly/3D4LqS8
🔗280ah Ruipu bit.ly/3BinoBO
🔗DIN Rail Terminal Block Kit - amzn.to/3Qz7NlL
🔗DIN Rail - amzn.to/3BxRSA0
🔗T-Nuts - amzn.to/3Qv5aRP
🔗Cooper Bussmann Fuse Holder - ebay.us/zwnwA7
🔗Solar Surge Protection - ebay.us/Xux0CP
🔗ABB Sace S5N Shunt Trip Breaker - ebay.us/iUP1EK
🔗Fish Paper - ebay.us/h4r6WJ
🔗Class T-Fuse amzn.to/3RGucz2
🔗Hoffman 18X18 Junction Box - ebay.us/uq2GHt
🔗Hammond 24X30X8 Enclosure - ebay.us/QkYBTe
🔗Red Excelene Battery/Welding Cable 2/0 - ebay.us/n6RTnA
🔗Black Excelene Battery/Welding Cable 2/0 - ebay.us/SqKSUw
🔗MPP PCM60X Charge Controller - ebay.us/AQaIE2
🔗12kw Growatt Inverter - signaturesolar...
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off to a good start !!! two vid's in 3 days ??? I'm liking it !
Yeah Its starting to get REAL!!!!😲😆💥🤘
I'd go with the unistrut / superstrut. Should look totally fine, and any that is exposed could be used to secure conduit or whatever else.
YES!!! Thats what I was thinking!!!!😄😄🤘
I think the Uni Strut is the way to go. Where I used to work we installed many different types of controls in chemical plants and refineries. The aluminum strut is really neat to work with and not as likely to corrode or rust like the steel. Makes it really easy to change spacing if you need to.
Will be going with unistrut. I didnt see aluminum at lowes so getting the steel! Should be a pretty sweet look when done!🤘
Unistrut would definitely work but even that might be a little uneven with the way your walls are. If it was me I'd just grab a diamond concrete grinding wheel for an angle grinder to make things a bit more flat. Then mount directly to the wall or use 1/2 height Unistrut pieces mounted horizontally. I'm sure whatever you decide it will look great.
I would get a bigger box…. That way you are covered for future mods or expansions.
Very True!!!🤔🤘
KISS ! Thanks again for your work. It’s been great seeing you and others working out the issues. With that said I’m using input from you to work out what I’m planning. So thanks for going through all the stuff.
KISS-> Keep it simple Stupid??? Thanks for watching. I would imagine Ill run into moar obstacles to overcome but we will figure them out together!!!🤘
@@AveRage_Joe thanks for the equipment review. Also it’ shows that the company’s are looking at your channel and you are seeing changes they’re making for the better.
God you are full time! Thank you for the game plan over view!
Thanks Man and Thanks for watching!!!💥🤘
You could attach a sheet of cement board or plywood to the wall and then attach everything to it. Only a few holes in the wall, then attaching things to the board is simple and allows for easy modifications to layout. Or attach the board to the unistrut you were thinking about.
I had thought about building out a wall there with studs and drywall ect. Would look nice but I think with all the weight, uni-strut would be the way to go!💥🤘
I do like the smash button. Thumbs up for you amigo!👍🏻
Yes , a bigger box should do well . Use the smaller box for maybe other components if you can . The power wall should be coming along a very well planned installation I would say . May the solar be with you.
YES I need all the solar I can get the next 6 months.....Winter is COMING!!!
Looks good. I switched to LiFePO4 about 1 year ago and it's been a very nice upgrade. :)
Nice!!! Did you do a vid I can check out?
@@AveRage_Joe Unfortunately, no. I don't really have time to make videos. :/
Let the Batrium have its own apartment. All strut is what I use for everything I mount anywhere. Don't have to be so precise with mounting holes or hardware, and you can move it simply without starting and drilling over. and you can add additional support screws if and where you need them because of the weight.
YES!!! I LOVE THAT!!!! Uni-Strut FTW!!!💥💥💥🤘
Proper planning prevents joe from calling the fire department when the piss poor powerwall pours out flames! Haha 🔥,
We will attempt!🤣🤘
To hold up the shelf You can also make the bottom compression plates longer
As in Taller?? Thats a great idea actually.....but I already cut them🙄😆
Re mounting, unistrut will work fine but it might be easier to add some spacers, shims or rubber washers as standoffs so the boxes are a fraction of an inch off the wall for leveling. Just a thought.
Oh yeah true on shims to level it all off!!💥🤘
Maybe if you put the shunt trip breaker outside the box that would save alot of space. that thing is a behemoth! but definitely leave plenty of din rail space for future solar additions!
Yeah its kinda big to be outside as well Im thinkin!🤔
You can always use fender washers as spacers to even it out if you bolt directly to the wall, having a bit of space between the box and the wall will also reduce the likelihood of rust. If you go with Uni I'd stick with the steel version, the aluminum version is nice but the lip strength on it to hold that box isn't quite as strong. That's a lot of weight that'll be hanging off it.
Should get you a lot of capacity though!
I decided the uni-strut is the way to go for sure! Havent seen aluminum at lowes, only steel. Will go with the bigger 12ga over the 14ga kinda for same lip strength reason! Hell yeah upgrade, should be 45-50kwh when I get this up and going! Cant wait🤘
@@AveRage_Joe If you have a Fastenal store in town you might check them on pricing for Uni, Lowes and Home Depot pricing is nuts right now. Fastenal carries it and the aluminum version too if you ever need it. My local Lowes doesn't even have it on the shelf.
The six P’s (piss poor planning) is a whole one more than the five P’s method. Sounds good to me!
The solar box does look like it might be a bit on the small size.
The unistrut sounds like it has its downsides but if you’ll want to play with the set up later then that would prove good.
Proper Planning Produces Powerwall Pajama-bottoms
😲😲😲😲😲😲😲😲😲😲😲💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥😆🤘 T-Shirt!!!
Great project in the makes ! I would keep the breaker on it’s on box and leave more room for PV extension, BMS and busbars ! Cheers !
Thanks!!! I may have to do that. BMS may also sit outside of metal boxes for the wifi connection!🤘
Thanks Joe, It's harder to keep it simple, spend more time planning🤔
100% hard to keep simple! 🤘
An air gap using uni strut is a good idea, The industrial look of uni strut is fine. I would put the battrium in a separate box with a plexiglass lid (lit up with LED’s) just because it looks cool. Mine are on a PIR sensor so they come on when you get near it.
I am warming up to the uni-strut moar and moar. Its already gonna have an industrial look with the boxes so the strut may look just as good. Yeah batrium will have to go in another box for sure as I forgot about the wifi signal lol. I like that idea with the pir sensors!!! Id like to do the SOC leds!!!💥🤘
@@AveRage_Joe Embrace the strut 🕺🏽 Why wouldn’t you do the SOC LED’s?
Thank you for listing your items in your videos.
rudy
subscriber in Florida.
Thanks! I remembered this time lol😆💥🤘
Hi Joe it’s probably too late, I have just re located to Brasil, so I have missed a few videos, if you are mounting to walls that aren’t straight you could incorporate a rubber o Ring around the fixing entering the wall to give you flexibility.
Already mounted mate!!!😜💥🤘
Signature solar has a new battery updated for fire 🔥. Good timing.
I saw that! Looks similar to the Bigbattery extinguishers! NICE
@@AveRage_Joe use Signatures video don’t try this yourself. I know you would try it. HaHa!
I would keep everything in the box you have and put the shunt trip breaker somewhere else. Mount plywood to the wall first then mount your stuff.
Think Ill be doing Uni-strut to mount to. Dont think plywood would hold everything but I could be wrong??🤔
Each battery case should have a disconnect, temperature sensors, and exhaust fan. Even though each pack will have its own BMS to see all the metrics and stats. I’d incorporate a dedicated shunt and display to help monitor and track each pack for operation and overall health.
I would install X (fire) rated drywall or cement board to the wall. This will slow down and contain any potential fire. I like your venting idea to the outside and with the inclusion of the fans on each enclosure it will help reduce the potential of deadly LiFePO4 gases should there ever be a rupture.
They make dedicated venting doors for various industries. But you can make your own by cutting out an appropriate sized hole on one side. Put a fan grill with filter on the outside. On the inside just have a hinged metal plate that will swing open anytime the fan is activated.
This simple design insures two things which is during normal operations and no fan is on the enclosure is always sealed. When and if the fan is activated it can draw outside air to cool the interior while also venting the heat / fumes to the outside.
As it relates to the venting tube. You’ll need to balance costs vs fire propagation. You can find a middle ground by using whatever sized conduit and enclosing that specific pipe within a metallic hard duct like for a furnace / dryer.
Having a dual wall venting pipe assures if the fumes turns into a raging fire if and when the plastic conduit melts the outer metal duct will still contain and vent the hazard.
Lastly, as it relates to temperature monitoring have a dedicated display mounted to the outside of each enclosure.
This will provide two things which is by eye you can see the interior temperature without ever opening the door. Two, should there ever be a raging fire you’ll know it’s not safe to open the door!
Anyone who recalls the movie Back Draft knows the extreme hazard of providing fire what it needs: Oxygen
You open that door while there’s a smouldering fire. As soon as you open that door Booom! 🤦♂️
Lastly, have two 20lbs ABC rated fire extinguishers mounted close by. One by the power wall and one at the bottom of the stairs. If you want to get fancy you can connect the temperature sensors to activate a relay to turn on a strobe / red light / siren so at a glance and by ear you’ll know there’s a fire condition present.
Love your channel and everything you continue to share with the community!
Rock On . . . 👍🤘
Yes, I will add a disconnect on each box for sure! The Batrium is the bms I am using and its a single bms however it has longmons that go to each cell which have temp sensors on them. It also lets me see all cells so will use 1 shunt. The batrium will allow me to do all sorts of stuff if wanted. The wall in concrete so wont need to add concrete board there however I plan to add concrete board above the system to cover any wood for jic even tho LiFePO4 shouldnt go up in flames. I guess the flame protection would be for the other items! Thanks for all the suggestions!! Appreciate it!!!🤘
Unistrut and bigger box. You could go with the same size box for the breakers and everything as the battery box. that way you'll end up with 4 of the same boxes on the wall.
Uni-strut for sure and most likely a bigger box. I dont think I can go as deep for the 4th box cause it might be super close to the inverter. I do like that vision tho!!!💥💥🤘
Consider getting one of those plastic boxes with din rail for the breakers and surge suppressors. The din rail load centre is commonly used outside North America so should be cheap online. Also, unistrut.
Could just get a bigger din rail box like the one im using meow I guess??
Your idea of screwing the battery enclosures to the wall might be semi unsafe. I would suggest a nice adjustable metal set of heavy duty shelves that are rated for the weight of the boxes. The solar box can also be safely set on the shelf and you can move each around to your liking. Suggestion 2 might be building a deck box on the floor that gives you access to each battery set. You would have a nice work area or seating or tool area on the wall. Yay ?
Later video I ended up using uni-strut to mount the battery boxes. So far its a super solid way to mount them!💥🤘
Morning Joe, love your work, mate. Fans? White silicon behind to hide the gaps.
Mornin! Thanks mate, appreciate that!!!😄🤘
The airgap away from the wall is probably best anyways. In case you need to run some wires behind it you'll have the room. Also, gives an extra area for ventilation depending on layout.
Altho, it does add more area for spiders to make homes 😹😹
True didnt think about extra/rando wires. OOOOOOOO will have to put some sort of a foam strip back there to help prevent those SPIDIES!!!!😲😆💥
For your exhaust fan: make a "trap" in the exhaust pipe to prevent cold air from seeping into your basement. 👍. You'll lose CFM but at least you won't have cold air turning your basement I to a chest freezer 🤣
Will add that FO SHO!!!💥🤘
I was taught the 6 Ps Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance
I Love it!!!💥🤘
Strut with fire rated plywood over it. Keep the bms in a smaller can.
Uni-strut for the win! BMS in a diff one for sure!!!🤘
How about a vertical chase-way butted up against the battery boxes, with the electronics box directly on the other side ? That'd be really clean.
I was thinking about those chase ways. Only tricky part is under the inverter...if I took it over that way as well!!🤘
@@AveRage_Joe Yea you could totally run a horizontal chaseway under the electronics box and around to under the inverter. No visible wires!
That's going to look nice.
Hell Yeah!!! Thanks!!💥🤘
I would go directly on the concrete and put some small (1/2 inch) rubber spacers between you box and the wall. Your box would then not need to follow the contours of the imperfect wall.
That is a pretty good idea actually! 😲🤔🤘
Yo Sir Joe, What is up!!! Still a fan, just saying what up! ✌ 🇿🇦
Yo Yo! Thanks for stoppin in!!💥💥🤘
I was once told by a wise old man that Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. Which would be the 7 P's. Or so as I've heard it. btw Return that Hoffman Box and get a bigger one if you can afford it and have the room. Better to have too much box than not enough. Just my thoughts.....
So the Wifie is the one that told me the 5 P's but Im thinking she got the PG version from a parent long ago LOL Yeah bigger is better....TWSS😆😆🤘
@@AveRage_Joe 🤣🤣
I think I'd go the uni-strut route be added airflow around it all that way too ;)
Im thinkin Uni-strut is the way meow as well!!!💥🤘
If you’re really set on having a low profile for the Rhino, another option is grinding down the wall until it’s flush. I just don’t see how a unistrut fixes the problem of an uneven mounting surface.
He would washer it out where needed
With the uni-strut I guess since it pushes them out a little I can mount the strut on a flatter surface BUT I could use washers as many suggest to shim boxes on wall. Uni-strut would make it easier and possibly less washers.
The name escapes me but the rockboard used for tile primarily is thinner but prob not quit as strong as unistrut. N cutting the stuff is horrible with all the fiberglass they use. Perhaps a disconnect on each box? Least the unistrut will be strong af! Exciting times from the average Joe channel. Keep up the good work
I think there are 2 kinds of the board you are thinking. Both may be called concrete board. One is thick and one thin. They are strong for sure but not sure about mounting that much weight ?? I have some of the thicker stuff which I may install above everything for a layer of protection. I think Uni-strut FTW!!! Thanks Mate!!!💥🤘
@@AveRage_Joe I agree, unistrut will be way stronger, you have all the anchoring options you could hope for. Good luck Joe!
I see the abrasion protection between the cells, will you include some between the cell bottoms and the steel box frame they sit on as well? Looking forward to this build for sure.
Yes will 100% have that under cells!🤘
Have a look at Off-Grid Garage !
Love Andy's channel! Mentioned him when I purchased the LFP cells a while back! Great dude!!🤘
The best one
😺👍i imagine that a bigger box can fit in with future expansions projects, without needing to redo all, and mounting the boxs on struts seems more easy to align all perfectly and can offering a little air space for a little amount of additional insulation from the wall no ?
Yeah Im leaning moar that way meow. We all know I seem to change my mind on things so this hole 5 Peee's thing is really helping LOL!!!😆😆💥
@@AveRage_Joe 😸😉👍
use unistrut and have it land on the floor with angle brackets underneath for extra stupport
OOOOOO great Idea for the angle brackets!!! Will add those for sure!!!😲💥🤘
I'm having trouble envisioning how you are going to get the threaded rods and compression plates on the ends of the packs unless you are doing it outside of the Hammond box and putting the assembled cells / compression plates in after. BTW, those nuts on the compression plate are called T-nuts.
Ill put the back 2 rods and left plate in box first. Then set all cells in along with the outer 2 rods and then the right side plate. The right side plate will have washers and nuts. Yeah lol I remembered the T-nuts after the video!!!😆😆🤘
I was thinking for the smoke make at the top a capture funnel that with a smoke detector, turns on a strong fan to suck and force it out.
I will probly add a smoke detector to the batrium so it can possibly do that and of course disconnect everything!!🤘
Definitely go Uni-Strut.
100%💥🤘
Glue plexiglass to the bottom of the shelf. I would not want the shunt/trip breaker inside of a box. I'd want it mounted on the wall where it is easily accessible.
Shut trip breaker will be accessable when mounted inside box. The switch and face will be exposed.🤘
How much will one of those battery boxes weigh? so likely you will have to support 1000lbs on the wall so I would go with uni-strut long enough to sit on the floor for added support. awesome build AJ.
Oh yeah weight will be a thing!!! I will for sure keep the strut long enough to start at the floor for that reason!!😆💥🤘
@@AveRage_Joe You could also use a false front with holes for the doors of the boxes then you don't need piping and the control box.
7 P’s. Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance! (Old British military saying)
Love it!!!😆💥
New subscriber. You have a lot of stuff. :)
Thanks Man! Appreciate that!💥🤘
You cannot name it Powerwall or 2.0 or anything like that, Joe!
All these names are already been taken and ... Man, you will confuse people 😂
😲🤦 Changes Name Quickly🤣
@@AveRage_Joe Hahaha, all good, we can share 😁
Hi mateee, I think you should mount it directly to the wall.
YOOOOO! I think Im leaning Uni-strut!!!🤘
Take two man. BOOM.
💥💥💥💥💥💥💥😆🤘
@@AveRage_Joe I’m going to pick up my power wall project for this winter. But I’m adding a twist to it.
A lemon twist??? Cool cant wait to see!
@@AveRage_Joe I'm going to do micro power grids instead of one big one. That’s if I can get more batteries with the limited amount of money I got saved.
I had the issue of the wall not being square, I solved this with washers/spacers.
Did you mount to the wall directly? I think im gonna do unistrut so I can mount other things if needed.🤘
@@AveRage_Joe I mounted it directly to the wall. Just use washers to level it way simpler. I used a template made from cardboard to drill the holes and set it all up.
Great 👍. I don't have that kind of money lol
1 Piece at a time!!!💥🤘
Looks to me like your concrete wall has had some maintenance done to it at some point. If you look at all the other blocks they are the standard 18" long. However, that one that is sticking out is a half block and rough all around it. Wonder what kind of work happened there 🤔🤔
I was kinda think the same as far as maintenance. Im moar thinking it was a change as addition/subtraction when they built the house! Hard to say 100% tho🤔🤔
Plaster board to mount everything on
I dont know if that would be sting enough???
Proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance. At least it was when I was in the Marines.
LOVE IT!!! How long did you serve again....if you told me before???
holy cow!!
😆😄🤘
I thought you had the big battery power wall hooked up?
I have the Rhino and husky powering my house right now. Am doing a diy as well then combine them.
So, any fuse is to protect the.cables. What size cable are you using? Will it withstand 400A + 10-15%? Might be a bit much for 2/0?
Yeah will have 400a HRC fuses right off the battery and then those cables will go to the shunt trip breaker. The amp draw for 12kw on the growatt inverter is about 250a so 2/0 is plenty as I wont be running full bore 24/7. I went with 250a X 1.5 which gave me 375 so I rounded up to 400a on the fuses.🤘
finally
Thanks and MuchO appreciate that!!!💥💥💥🤘
I would put the batrium in another box.
100%...kinda forgot about the wifi lol😆💥
@@AveRage_Joe Maybe not a metal box then lol
and it has pre installed batteries
💥🤘
Concrete Board. White
I have some leftover from tile work. Will install some above everything for protection!🤘
Properly Planned Primary Power Pack
Not Bad!!!
Why not tapcon a sheet of plywood to the wall, paint it, don't paint it,
it would look fine either way. 4 anchors in the wall , then it would leave a clean canvas for your artwork! Mount that solar equipment up on it!! Maybe space it out a bit, and hide wiring behind it! I would go with plywood!! It would have a more finished look, and make attaching other thing to it easier!
I would but I dont know if plywood would hold everything🤷♂️
Man those batteries are going to be heavy hanging on a wall.. you are going to need some heavy duty reinforcing of those cabinets/boxes from what I can see. Why not just put them on the ground and stack them?
Yeah its gonna be heavy but close to the wall should help. The boxes are already pretty heavy duty steel and not light. I had thought about on the ground but wanted them up on the wall and off the ground.
@@AveRage_Joe yes it will look cool having them on the wall off the floor. Usually cabinets/shelves that have a lot of weight in/on them have legs that go to a concrete floor. That’s what actually supports the weight.
I've only every heard of the 7 p's and the 8 p's.
Perfect Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
Probably.
As for the spare room in the solar box, I don't understand why you're running surge suppressors. You should never see any surges given that it's for all intents and purposes, a battery supply. You shouldn't even see any transients for that matter, aside from small ones from your larger inductive loads. So you could easily omit them and gain an extra 4 circuit breaker positions.
I bet we could add some moar Peeee's in there....probably!!!
The surge suppressors are on the solar input side. Just trying to "help" prevent any damage if I can!🤔
If nothing else, PP power will probably get you a few viewers that don't know
PP Power!!😆🤘
Sorry Joe but it's the 7 P's of Engineering. Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. (ask your Navy Buddies).
are you going off-grid when done ?
That is the end goal! I will need moar solar for sure especially for winter time!!!😆💥
is that stiarwell the only way in to the basement?
Yeah its the only way down.
@@AveRage_Joe hmm and you have batteries inverters and the like under it so if anything happens and it goes up you wont be able to reach it to shut it off .... food for thought.
you cannot have too big a fuse box
believe me.
or get a second one
yeaaaaaaaaaa thinking bigger right about meow and or 2nd🤔🙄😆
@@AveRage_Joe
ah yes, with time you want install more and more in that box
You're gonna need a bigger boat...er, box.
Yeaaaaaah.....and or another🤷♂️🤣
Proper planning prevent piss-poor performance.
Can We just call it Product, Price, Promotion, Place and People? That way it's a step up now a Step down LOL
You can caller whatchu want😲💥
@@AveRage_Joe tru tru.
6 p's...