So the more I thought about this one the more I’m thinking there is an issue with the TXV staying open too far. Usually a non adjustable TXV has a Minimum Superheat setting which keeps the superheat positive. I am getting a 0 superheat. Even after I put the bulb in 32° water, I only got about 8° of super heat. The TXV should have closed a lot more than that in freezing water. I am following up in a couple weeks to replace the filter drier (standard practice after a burnout) and I will bring a TXV with me when I go back. Jeff
Yellow jacket makes a vacuum rated stubby hose . I use it to attach my micron gauge and then close the ball valve on the hose when I’m ready to charge so oil never hits the sensor
I subbed. Im in school to become a tech and that was a very good video of a triple evacuation. Im always looking to do things the best I can when I work. Thank you for the video, I saved it to look back on.
the TXV is probably borked from the junk that came from the old compressor. it should always be replaced after a violent compressor death. dont forget any check valves and/or the 4 way valve! and ensure its running proper in both modes. its really sucks if you have to replace those...
Outstanding!!! Love the bulb test. Does no super heat mean you have liquid going back to compressor? Yeah something is up, maybe that 5/16 is kinked somewhere or the meter device on the outdoor unit is gunked up. 🤔
Yea no super heat means liquid is coming back. I’m going to follow up in a couple weeks to change the filter drier anyway. (Usually always do that after a burnout.) And I might pull the outdoor piston and clean and also maybe check that indoor TXV again. It was working but i have a suspicion it might not be working properly.
Jeff, a couple of weeks ago we had the exact same problem compressor making weird noises at starting, well same thing low super heat and sub cooling wouldn't rise, replaced txv and compressor and what a difference, su cooling went up and super heat is at where it should be
And I believe your pinned comment is correct , I bet the txv is most definitely over feeding . That sucks because those type of things there’s really no way to know that until you get the system back up and running . A lot of guys at my company when compressors fail are starting to always add TXVs to the repair quotes just to cover the ass and I’m probably going to start doing the same thing , within reason of course
What did take out the compressor? I think I would go back and change the liquid line out because there was not enough discharge. to get rid of the heat and I think the compressor overheated. I also agree with Jon Hvac I would also change the TXv would not be a bad idea
Any time I have a non working compressor, a new TXV goes right along with it! I can sell the TXV on the bid proposal much easier than sell the TXV, consumables and labor after the compressor is in. Customer looses confidence in you when you add additional cost after the fact. I like to put the bolts in before brazing the compressor. If not properly aligned it puts strain on the copper and you may not be able to find the holes after the copper is in. If the lineset was causing a substantial restriction there would be flashing along the way and this would be visible in by reduction in liquid line temperature at the TXV. This would be more evident on a hot day, because the heat gain along the line would reduce the SC. 11 degrees of SC is there to make sure the refrigerant has few degrees of SC at the TXV. When charging a split system on a 115 degree day I may back off on the SC a little if my CTOA is around 20 degrees.
My compressor inlet and outlet is copper plated steel. Would you recommend flux and a 45%or 56% silver braze in case us newbees burn through the copper plating on the steel compressor ports? I figured it's the safest bet so it would work with either metals.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures just ordered some 56% before I saw your message, would that be ok? By the way, thank you so very much for taking the time to make these videos to help folks out. You got my likes, Subscribe and support.
I don’t think Map gas will get it hot enough. And if it does it will take a really long time. Your gonna need Oxy acetylene (recommended) or turbo torch.
That's the only way you can charge when topping a system off. A heat pump has a suction accumulater which protects the compressor. I agree you don't want to slug a compressor with liquid while it's running but charging with liquid slowly through your suction side is the only option most times on AC systems.
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So the more I thought about this one the more I’m thinking there is an issue with the TXV staying open too far. Usually a non adjustable TXV has a Minimum Superheat setting which keeps the superheat positive. I am getting a 0 superheat. Even after I put the bulb in 32° water, I only got about 8° of super heat. The TXV should have closed a lot more than that in freezing water. I am following up in a couple weeks to replace the filter drier (standard practice after a burnout) and I will bring a TXV with me when I go back.
Jeff
Very nice video. Very informative, good speed and clear audio.
Best how to video of unbrazing! You earned my subscribe! Was nice of you to clear the leaves out for home owner.
Appreciate that. I did get most of the leaves out of the base pan.
Yellow jacket makes a vacuum rated stubby hose . I use it to attach my micron gauge and then close the ball valve on the hose when I’m ready to charge so oil never hits the sensor
Brilliant job👍👍👍
Thanks man.
I subbed. Im in school to become a tech and that was a very good video of a triple evacuation. Im always looking to do things the best I can when I work. Thank you for the video, I saved it to look back on.
Thanks for watching, and subbing!
That txv over feeding is probably what killed the compressor in the first place...
the TXV is probably borked from the junk that came from the old compressor. it should always be replaced after a violent compressor death. dont forget any check valves and/or the 4 way valve! and ensure its running proper in both modes. its really sucks if you have to replace those...
Outstanding!!! Love the bulb test. Does no super heat mean you have liquid going back to compressor?
Yeah something is up, maybe that 5/16 is kinked somewhere or the meter device on the outdoor unit is gunked up. 🤔
Yea no super heat means liquid is coming back. I’m going to follow up in a couple weeks to change the filter drier anyway. (Usually always do that after a burnout.) And I might pull the outdoor piston and clean and also maybe check that indoor TXV again. It was working but i have a suspicion it might not be working properly.
When you go back to change the txv and drier will you use the same refrigerant? Or do you have to go back in with virgin after a burnout
Jeff, a couple of weeks ago we had the exact same problem compressor making weird noises at starting, well same thing low super heat and sub cooling wouldn't rise, replaced txv and compressor and what a difference, su cooling went up and super heat is at where it should be
And I believe your pinned comment is correct , I bet the txv is most definitely over feeding . That sucks because those type of things there’s really no way to know that until you get the system back up and running . A lot of guys at my company when compressors fail are starting to always add TXVs to the repair quotes just to cover the ass and I’m probably going to start doing the same thing , within reason of course
Yea it certainly does suck having to go back to the customer with the news but usually they understand in the long run.
I used to always put in a suction filter after a burnout
I considered that but where the acid test came negative I decided against it.
That little of missing insulation will not hurt anything, it just looks a lot cleaner.
Yup. I didn’t have any to put back anyway. 😂🤙
What did take out the compressor? I think I would go back and change the liquid line out because there was not enough discharge. to get rid of the heat and I think the compressor overheated. I also agree with Jon Hvac I would also change the TXv would not be a bad idea
The stuck TXV took the compressor out.
Any time I have a non working compressor, a new TXV goes right along with it! I can sell the TXV on the bid proposal much easier than sell the TXV, consumables and labor after the compressor is in. Customer looses confidence in you when you add additional cost after the fact.
I like to put the bolts in before brazing the compressor. If not properly aligned it puts strain on the copper and you may not be able to find the holes after the copper is in.
If the lineset was causing a substantial restriction there would be flashing along the way and this would be visible in by reduction in liquid line temperature at the TXV. This would be more evident on a hot day, because the heat gain along the line would reduce the SC. 11 degrees of SC is there to make sure the refrigerant has few degrees of SC at the TXV. When charging a split system on a 115 degree day I may back off on the SC a little if my CTOA is around 20 degrees.
Nice job bro what size of tip use for compressor lines and how to set torch I mean how many pressure for acetylene and oxygen? Thank you
I’m not exactly sure what size the tip I use is but I set my pressures at 7 acetylene and 14 oxygen. Some guys due 10-20 but I’m good at 7-14.
Maybe airflow, also don’t see how adding that extra refrigerant would cause it to start flooding back again. Did you let it run 15 minutes after that?
It was a bad TXV.
My compressor inlet and outlet is copper plated steel. Would you recommend flux and a 45%or 56% silver braze in case us newbees burn through the copper plating on the steel compressor ports? I figured it's the safest bet so it would work with either metals.
Yea.. 45% silver with flux
@@JeffsHVACAdventures just ordered some 56% before I saw your message, would that be ok? By the way, thank you so very much for taking the time to make these videos to help folks out. You got my likes, Subscribe and support.
close suction isolation valve and no leak from compressor
I don’t think it’s the size of the discharge line because your head pressure was normal. I think Txv
Yea. I pinned a comment about it.
I'd change the TXV
Yea I am. I pinned a comment about it.
What tip did you use on your torch? You were able to heat it up fast. Does breaking vacuum hurt the micron gauge?
Just a standard tip. No, the micron gauge can handle a little pressure.
isn't that a filter drier inside the condenser? aka shouldn't that be replaced and only have one filter drier total?
This was awhile back but I think it was a muffler. Don’t doesn’t need to be replaced.
Allwas be safe my frend using a mask
dode it was gray , just miss one think every time you change an compressor change the tsv
What kind of brazing rod did you use for the compressor? silfos15?
Harris Stay-Silv 15. 15% silver 80% copper 5% phosphorus
Hi. I need to replace a Mitsubishi compressor. Will map pro gas get hot enough to separate the lines from the compressor? Are you using oxy acetylene?
I don’t think Map gas will get it hot enough. And if it does it will take a really long time. Your gonna need Oxy acetylene (recommended) or turbo torch.
Hi Jeff I’m curious you could have quoted a new condenser right?
This one is going back a ways but I’m thinking this compressor was under warranty.
At least now you know what killed that compressor
Sure do!
Copeland wants stubs on compressor, Do Not beat it shut.
Didn’t know that. Been beating them shut for 20 years. Thanks for the advice.
Glad that’s a Copeland. I am not a fan of LG.
Don’t those tests say must be running compressor and take sample of vapor refrigerant??
Ideally yes. But where this compressor was bad and blew a pin, I had no choice.
Running no superheat is really bad for the compressor no wonder it burned up.
Never charge on the low side. Liquid in the compressor.
That's the only way you can charge when topping a system off. A heat pump has a suction accumulater which protects the compressor. I agree you don't want to slug a compressor with liquid while it's running but charging with liquid slowly through your suction side is the only option most times on AC systems.
You just killed the new compressor
No.