Re: "not historically accurate" I'm pretty sure that if someone in history had a pair of ill fitting stays, they would make less fashionable alterations to make the them actually fit
Wearability is something I have wondered with a lot of sewing videos. Many of them on the internet seem to end when the product is completed so they leave out information regarding how the garment functions (or doesn’t) during use. Your video here in a way scratched that curiosity itch and was a great follow up!
I wrestled myself into a pair of stays, this week, that I hadn't tried on before. And oh, Hanna! I was in them long enough to run an errand just up the road, and as soon as I got back, I HAD to take them off. They rode up and bit into my underarms viciously. I knew I was in trouble just after I got my dress on and stepped out the door, but I didn't have time to change. I still haven't seen if the re-lacing worked. I was so hot and miserable after that, that I've decided to wait for a much cooler day before I aggravate myself to that extent, again. They're wonderful when they work! But absolute torture when they don't. I definitely feel for you, so glad you could fix it.
Add a "guard" of bias tape or ribbon to the hem, which is historically accurate. It will protect the hem long term and is easily replaced if it gets damaged. If you are sway backed, you may need to shorten the back of your corset to raise the waist placement. Laces and fabric generally both stretch over time. Finally, if you haven't already done so, try adding boning to the tabs, as it can improve the support from the corset.
Hydrogen peroxide takes out blood that has not set in. Rubbing alcohol works for a lot of stains, too. Vinegar is usually my first go to, though, for most stains and generally the most gentile. Still, if you try them do a sample fabric, as I’ve never tried them on silk.
I love the final product and silhouette. ❤ Who’s to say the stays are not historically accurate. They were made to fit the wearer, and not all bodies are shaped the same.
It must have felt so bittersweet to iron the words off, but it was very satisfying to watch! Loved getting to see the "aftermath" of making a costume for an event and making it re-wearable!
It's so pretty on you! If you're concerned about the wide lacing gap, you can add extra panels at the back, just between the lacing strip and the back panel. I got this from a professional, theatrical corset-maker and it worked well for me.
Thanks for sharing, I've got the weird combination of really narrow and highly mobile shoulders plus way more sideboob that is really reasonable (thanks, middle-age) which makes me measure a lot wider than I am (I literally have to bend my underwires around my ribcage or they poke me in the biceps), so this is definitely something I need to keep in mind for when I make stays or corsets, I'm always getting owie at the front of armholes in everything, my secret cheat so far for those pinchies is to add an armpit gusset, but that's not going to help with a corset or stays...
Oh no, I’m sorry you had such a miserable experience wearing the costume! Thank goodness you’re able to fix the issues and can still wear the stays and petticoat. Your experience wearing the stays at the concert reminds me of the kinds of things actresses complain about when wearing stays or corsets for their costumes. I think you’ve shown that it is possible to fix the discomfort by adjusting the fit and wearing a chemise, which is exactly what historical costumers and dress historians say every time an article about actresses complaining about corsets crops up. So, well done on proving that point (even if it wasn’t what you set out to do!) 😁
I sadly haven't been keeping up with my sewing videos but your video made it to my Google News feed suggestions!!!! I have missed watching your videos and I have to get back into watching everyone's content again!! Awesome work! Glad you were able to fix it!
I love seeing how happy you are with the adjustments to the stays! After having put that much work into them, it's great that you will be able to keep wearing them!
I struggle with 18th century stays just like you. I made one some years ago as a mockup from old jeans. I never got to make the real one with the fancy fabric as the mockup was so work intensive. XD Now I consider just adding the fancy fabric on top but first I need to make it fit better and not cut into my armhole. Thanks for the heads up, I think revisiting older customs and improving them is a great idea to make sure our creations get the wear they deserve.
I'm sorry you were in so much pain during the concert, that really sucks. I've done similar things at conventions, back when I went and before I learned how to fit (and wear!) corsets properly. I'm glad you were able to salvage it!
And btw if not want to use shift under the stays make a kinda shift with just bands that hold it it when put stays on. But with detacheble shoulderbands so unhook them and just have it pop out just above the stays. Then you get the protection under the stays that make it more comfteble but not really visable. Will take some sweat from underside stain it like that and are more just the armpit area that have some staining. But some shifts don't have sleeves anyway so
May I make a suggestion? I would suggest you remove some width out from where the center of your stays joins the side front panels. You appear to be narrower across the chest at the collar bones. Then take whatever you cut out of the center front area and put it in the side seam area to get the total circumference of your stays back.
I'm so glad you went back and made the changes to the ensemble, especially the stays. The look is spectacular. To the point that I'm contemplating working on something with That many boning channels. So glad you enjoyed the concert and that you danced your tail feathers off. From the clips I've seen, she looks like she mounts an amazing show. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Very good information! Sorry you had to go through so much pain to bring us this video, but because you did, hopefully none of your viewers--and you--won't repeat the mistake of wearing a corset that doesn't fit well because we don't actually wear the garment before the outing. I can completely see myself doing that! Good for you for having the foresight to take a t-shirt!
I’ve just finished a pair of Augusta stays. And I had the same lower back pain. I realised that it was because the pressure was being directed to my waist by not having eyelets going down low enough. I put in two more sets of eyelets and it fixed it by dispersing the force about my pelvis not spine
Last year, I made a 1780s outfit - chemise, stays, under petticoat, pockets, petticoat, Italian gown, & floofy Georgian cap. I wore it for most of a day for a friend's wedding (they love "Hamilton" & encouraged their guests to dress up). Then, I accessorized it a little bit to work as a Halloween costume. I was dressed as Caroline Herschel for teaching classes running from about 8 am until 10 pm. On both occasions, wearing the stays for that long was not too bad. I was exhausted, but our modern buildings (particularly ladies' room stalls!) aren't really made for dresses like that. Plus, on my long work days, I spend minimum two hours driving. Honestly, my feet were as done in as my back after all that. 😂 Finding shoes you can teach in which fit a historical outfit is as challenging as making stays fit. 😂
I noticed some "ghosting" of the lettering after it was ironed off. Is that still visible to you, or was it just the lighting and camera angle that made it visible to me?
It’s still visible but only in certain light and looking closely! I ended up only doing the lettering on the sides and back, because they’re typically covered by 18th century dresses, just in case it showed more ☺️
Cat, did you make the button up collared blouse? what pattern? it's GORGEOUS. Also love the costume at the end. Remember, it's you wearing it - if it's uncomfy, change it.
Lovely, I'm not sure what you did the writing with, but a lot of heat sensitive marks will reappear if the temperature drops enough. Do a test bit, heat erase it, then pop it in the freezer and see if it returns.
me have been going between this look or victorian undergarments for a masqurade costume for next summer. like a pinup from that time more or less. hard to pick what time to make
Here is a bit of unsolicited advice from someone who has worn a 19th century corset nearly every day since 2006. First, if you want to correct your posture and not suffer from back pain I have three suggestions. First, find a good chiropractor. Second after you have your first session with your chiropractor, ditch your bra and wear a well fitting corset for support. Next, as soon as you can afford one, buy an electric adjustable computer/sewing table and ditch your computer chair. My first year teaching I was in agony from my back every evening. My chiropractor found that damage to my neck from a bike accident nearly 15 years before had caused bone spurs in my neck and my lower back and my posture was trying to compensate. I had some good corsetry for my costuming and started wearing that to take the weight off my shoulders and in about six months my corset corrected my posture. I sat less in my corset as sitting for long periods isn’t comfortable and I got a standing desk for my home and the school provided an adjustable desk in the classroom. I don’t wear brassiers any more and have been pretty much free of back pain ever since. You move differently in a corset and many of my bad posture habits were corrected because discomfort while wearing my corset, caused me to shift to a more comfortable position. Now I just stand and sit that way (even without a corset) because my body has become habituated. I have enjoyed your content a lot and I am betting ready to make my first set of stays. I was in awe of your ability to complete this garment in so short a time, and I am glad to see how you need to change them to make them fit.
Chiropractors are not medical professionals, it's a pseudo science started by a guy who thought ghosts lived in your bones. An actual doctor in combination with a physical therapist is what she, and anyone else with back/joint issues, needs. Chiropractors have killed and permanently injured people through their "adjustments" which have never proven to have any actual medical value. Please see a real actual trained professional.
It's hard not to compare the silhouette to the 1950's New Look, the top v shape, the full skirts and exaggerated hour glass. You can see where Dior got his inspiration!
I’ve just finished a pair of Augusta stays. And I had the same lower back pain. I realised that it was because the pressure was being directed to my waist by not having eyelets going down low enough. I put in two more sets of eyelets and it fixed it by dispersing the force about my pelvis not spine
Re: "not historically accurate" I'm pretty sure that if someone in history had a pair of ill fitting stays, they would make less fashionable alterations to make the them actually fit
Agreed! ☺️
But we now know why so many actresses complain. Poor fit makes everything bad!
Wearability is something I have wondered with a lot of sewing videos. Many of them on the internet seem to end when the product is completed so they leave out information regarding how the garment functions (or doesn’t) during use.
Your video here in a way scratched that curiosity itch and was a great follow up!
Love how this looks with the modifications/fixes and the wearability factor of being able to reuse the costume
I wrestled myself into a pair of stays, this week, that I hadn't tried on before. And oh, Hanna! I was in them long enough to run an errand just up the road, and as soon as I got back, I HAD to take them off.
They rode up and bit into my underarms viciously. I knew I was in trouble just after I got my dress on and stepped out the door, but I didn't have time to change. I still haven't seen if the re-lacing worked. I was so hot and miserable after that, that I've decided to wait for a much cooler day before I aggravate myself to that extent, again.
They're wonderful when they work! But absolute torture when they don't.
I definitely feel for you, so glad you could fix it.
It’s comforting to hear it wasn’t just me! Hope you can fix them ❤️
Add a "guard" of bias tape or ribbon to the hem, which is historically accurate. It will protect the hem long term and is easily replaced if it gets damaged.
If you are sway backed, you may need to shorten the back of your corset to raise the waist placement.
Laces and fabric generally both stretch over time.
Finally, if you haven't already done so, try adding boning to the tabs, as it can improve the support from the corset.
Hydrogen peroxide takes out blood that has not set in. Rubbing alcohol works for a lot of stains, too. Vinegar is usually my first go to, though, for most stains and generally the most gentile. Still, if you try them do a sample fabric, as I’ve never tried them on silk.
Thank you for the tips, I’ll keep them in mind! This silk was very forgiving and liked the hydrogen peroxide very well ☺️
@@CatsCostumery your welcome and good to know about the silk.
I love the final product and silhouette. ❤ Who’s to say the stays are not historically accurate. They were made to fit the wearer, and not all bodies are shaped the same.
It must have felt so bittersweet to iron the words off, but it was very satisfying to watch! Loved getting to see the "aftermath" of making a costume for an event and making it re-wearable!
It's so pretty on you! If you're concerned about the wide lacing gap, you can add extra panels at the back, just between the lacing strip and the back panel. I got this from a professional, theatrical corset-maker and it worked well for me.
Thanks for sharing, I've got the weird combination of really narrow and highly mobile shoulders plus way more sideboob that is really reasonable (thanks, middle-age) which makes me measure a lot wider than I am (I literally have to bend my underwires around my ribcage or they poke me in the biceps), so this is definitely something I need to keep in mind for when I make stays or corsets, I'm always getting owie at the front of armholes in everything, my secret cheat so far for those pinchies is to add an armpit gusset, but that's not going to help with a corset or stays...
Oh no, I’m sorry you had such a miserable experience wearing the costume! Thank goodness you’re able to fix the issues and can still wear the stays and petticoat.
Your experience wearing the stays at the concert reminds me of the kinds of things actresses complain about when wearing stays or corsets for their costumes. I think you’ve shown that it is possible to fix the discomfort by adjusting the fit and wearing a chemise, which is exactly what historical costumers and dress historians say every time an article about actresses complaining about corsets crops up. So, well done on proving that point (even if it wasn’t what you set out to do!) 😁
So true!
I love the final results. I absolutely agree with you that the silhouette is very pretty. The silk rustling is a beautiful sound.
I sadly haven't been keeping up with my sewing videos but your video made it to my Google News feed suggestions!!!! I have missed watching your videos and I have to get back into watching everyone's content again!! Awesome work! Glad you were able to fix it!
I love seeing how happy you are with the adjustments to the stays! After having put that much work into them, it's great that you will be able to keep wearing them!
Great follow-up, thanks! Love the final silhouette x
I struggle with 18th century stays just like you. I made one some years ago as a mockup from old jeans. I never got to make the real one with the fancy fabric as the mockup was so work intensive. XD Now I consider just adding the fancy fabric on top but first I need to make it fit better and not cut into my armhole. Thanks for the heads up, I think revisiting older customs and improving them is a great idea to make sure our creations get the wear they deserve.
For science, can you shove the skirt into the freezer for 24 hours to see if the ink comes back?
I could try this 👀
I'm sorry you were in so much pain during the concert, that really sucks. I've done similar things at conventions, back when I went and before I learned how to fit (and wear!) corsets properly. I'm glad you were able to salvage it!
And btw if not want to use shift under the stays make a kinda shift with just bands that hold it it when put stays on. But with detacheble shoulderbands so unhook them and just have it pop out just above the stays. Then you get the protection under the stays that make it more comfteble but not really visable. Will take some sweat from underside stain it like that and are more just the armpit area that have some staining. But some shifts don't have sleeves anyway so
May I make a suggestion? I would suggest you remove some width out from where the center of your stays joins the side front panels. You appear to be narrower across the chest at the collar bones. Then take whatever you cut out of the center front area and put it in the side seam area to get the total circumference of your stays back.
I think you need a banyan! Complete with cap!😂
She could be comfortable in it!
@twinnish you have no idea, well, you probably do! Cat would look awesome in one!
I'm so glad you went back and made the changes to the ensemble, especially the stays. The look is spectacular. To the point that I'm contemplating working on something with That many boning channels. So glad you enjoyed the concert and that you danced your tail feathers off. From the clips I've seen, she looks like she mounts an amazing show.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
That's so pretty, you have such a nice profile!
Very good information! Sorry you had to go through so much pain to bring us this video, but because you did, hopefully none of your viewers--and you--won't repeat the mistake of wearing a corset that doesn't fit well because we don't actually wear the garment before the outing. I can completely see myself doing that! Good for you for having the foresight to take a t-shirt!
It looked great before but looks even better now
I’ve just finished a pair of Augusta stays.
And I had the same lower back pain.
I realised that it was because the pressure was being directed to my waist by not having eyelets going down low enough.
I put in two more sets of eyelets and it fixed it by dispersing the force about my pelvis not spine
Last year, I made a 1780s outfit - chemise, stays, under petticoat, pockets, petticoat, Italian gown, & floofy Georgian cap. I wore it for most of a day for a friend's wedding (they love "Hamilton" & encouraged their guests to dress up). Then, I accessorized it a little bit to work as a Halloween costume. I was dressed as Caroline Herschel for teaching classes running from about 8 am until 10 pm. On both occasions, wearing the stays for that long was not too bad. I was exhausted, but our modern buildings (particularly ladies' room stalls!) aren't really made for dresses like that. Plus, on my long work days, I spend minimum two hours driving. Honestly, my feet were as done in as my back after all that. 😂 Finding shoes you can teach in which fit a historical outfit is as challenging as making stays fit. 😂
I would LOVE to see the Robe a la Francaise you have in mind. I’m actually making one for my mom (that I hope she will let me borrow)
Lovely! I’m sure you will enjoy it’s second life!
Its gorgeous!
Beautiful 💜
I noticed some "ghosting" of the lettering after it was ironed off. Is that still visible to you, or was it just the lighting and camera angle that made it visible to me?
It’s still visible but only in certain light and looking closely! I ended up only doing the lettering on the sides and back, because they’re typically covered by 18th century dresses, just in case it showed more ☺️
Cat, did you make the button up collared blouse? what pattern? it's GORGEOUS. Also love the costume at the end. Remember, it's you wearing it - if it's uncomfy, change it.
I didn’t make this one, but I did make a copy of it! There’s a video on the channel and a pattern on Patreon ☺️
Lovely, I'm not sure what you did the writing with, but a lot of heat sensitive marks will reappear if the temperature drops enough. Do a test bit, heat erase it, then pop it in the freezer and see if it returns.
Very pretty
beautiful work! how was the concert?
It was amazing!! ☺️🎉
me have been going between this look or victorian undergarments for a masqurade costume for next summer. like a pinup from that time more or less. hard to pick what time to make
🎉cheguei já deixando o like ....❤
❤
Here is a bit of unsolicited advice from someone who has worn a 19th century corset nearly every day since 2006. First, if you want to correct your posture and not suffer from back pain I have three suggestions. First, find a good chiropractor. Second after you have your first session with your chiropractor, ditch your bra and wear a well fitting corset for support. Next, as soon as you can afford one, buy an electric adjustable computer/sewing table and ditch your computer chair. My first year teaching I was in agony from my back every evening. My chiropractor found that damage to my neck from a bike accident nearly 15 years before had caused bone spurs in my neck and my lower back and my posture was trying to compensate. I had some good corsetry for my costuming and started wearing that to take the weight off my shoulders and in about six months my corset corrected my posture. I sat less in my corset as sitting for long periods isn’t comfortable and I got a standing desk for my home and the school provided an adjustable desk in the classroom. I don’t wear brassiers any more and have been pretty much free of back pain ever since. You move differently in a corset and many of my bad posture habits were corrected because discomfort while wearing my corset, caused me to shift to a more comfortable position. Now I just stand and sit that way (even without a corset) because my body has become habituated. I have enjoyed your content a lot and I am betting ready to make my first set of stays. I was in awe of your ability to complete this garment in so short a time, and I am glad to see how you need to change them to make them fit.
Chiropractors are not medical professionals, it's a pseudo science started by a guy who thought ghosts lived in your bones. An actual doctor in combination with a physical therapist is what she, and anyone else with back/joint issues, needs. Chiropractors have killed and permanently injured people through their "adjustments" which have never proven to have any actual medical value. Please see a real actual trained professional.
It's hard not to compare the silhouette to the 1950's New Look, the top v shape, the full skirts and exaggerated hour glass. You can see where Dior got his inspiration!
I used to get chaffing issues from underwire bras...fixed by wearing a chami under my bra..old knowledge to the rescue
Здорово! ❤
kiddo i cant keep a bra on for 8 hours. those stays sound great.
You're a pretty narrow shoulder so I started off 😞
I’ve just finished a pair of Augusta stays.
And I had the same lower back pain.
I realised that it was because the pressure was being directed to my waist by not having eyelets going down low enough.
I put in two more sets of eyelets and it fixed it by dispersing the force about my pelvis not spine
I will try this!!