Building my Dream 60% Keyboard
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- Check prices below
Anne Pro 2: geni.us/GnHYG
Tealios V2 Switches: zealpc.net/pro...
DSA Black keycaps: bit.ly/2JbvfET
How to lube your switches (Taeha Types): • How I Lube MX Switches...
NCASE M1 Mods: optimumtechmed...
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Camera: geni.us/IrGrgYY
Primary Lens: geni.us/6cgH
Secondary Lens: geni.us/OqYZS
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Won't be in a hurry to use common mechanical switches after this..
Also correction @ 2:15 - it's a plastic case, not aluminium, still feels nice and sturdy though - my bad!
do you reply people
The DSA keycaps you provided arent doubleshot either. Laser etching should still be fine tho.
I'm addicted to cherry mx blue. Whenever I use anything else, I feel so unsatisfied.
@@mrrgb4954 I puke when i hear cherry mx blue. Although switches are in the end, personal preference, cherry mx blues sound rattly, plastic-ey and high pitched. It feels meh as well. Have you tried things like box navies etc?
Have the same switches on a GK64 :-). (Bang good, $95 AUD, but took nearly a month to arrive).
OT, Suspect your main audience is USA?
But, for us Aussie's, there is a great group on FB "AUMK". And, they do semi-frequent LOCAL group buys on things like the Tealios V2.
Rhys is the main seller there, trustworthy, easy to deal with, fast delivery when in stock.
Reminder:
For tactile switches, only lube the parts where the slider moves on the sides of the housing. Do NOT lube the leaf, or you'll lose that tactility.
Otherwise, good guide!
Source:
Spending too much time lubing Outemu Sky V2's.
This man lubes
note: some switches are so tactile that if you lube the leg or the leaf, the tactility is still strong, so that's a weird way to flex on other weak tactile switches, but that's om
Have HPs coming in soon and more to come, just imagine me sweating the lube stage avoiding the leaves at all cost and convince myself to not touch/clip the poles either, I want these HPs to be as extremely tactile as possible lol
Outemu Skies really need the lube though tbf, so I think it's fair that you thought to lube the tactile legs too.
@@hikarii8758 what about Gateron brown?
Great video, man! 👌
BadSeed Tech ayyy your one of my favorite RUclipsrs
papa big beard
@@henrye561 brother?
hey bro best keycaps amzn.to/3ohIvvF
Hi mate
Great video! Thanks for showcasing our Tealios V2! :)
Still £9 per switch. Might hold off a while to buy.
@@Charlie-et4td Just so you know it comes in a pack of 10. It's not that price for a single switch.
@@MrAdam0008 really. The site only indicates one switch. Guess I'm getting an upgrade when DHL starts UK shipping again.
@@Charlie-et4td Per switch? Nah, dude
hey bro best keycaps amzn.to/3ohIvvF
Some notes to anyone finding this video in 2020 like me - Anne Pro 2 is a plastic case, not aluminium however they do have alu cases that fit the pcb. However in 2020 for the same price, you can get a hotswap board (no soldering necessary) like a NK65 entry, Drop Carina, ID80, or Keychron K6.
Reason why I subcribed ! Customization and uniqueness. With great information. Keep at it !
I still have my Steelseries 6GV2 with MX black switches, which are also linear and have a similar actuation force to the ones you put in. They feel very smooth, not scratchy like the browns you took out. I love that keyboard, have a custom doubleshot PBT keyset and won't replace it ever, it'a built like a tank and will probably outlive me.
YES! Finally more people are getting into the mech keyboard world!
Shh... Hear that? It's the sound of a million wallets crying
@@cilindrox relatable
@@cilindrox Amusingly, my Zelios PCB and Sakurios switches arrived the other day and Drop forced my arm into the Oblivion keycap set... I'm like, ~$400 deep and I don't have a case, lube or even a proper soldering station sorted yet! Wallet is indeed crying.
@@naycnay some people do spend 1000$ bucks for a phone that they do drop some weeks later. 😂
400$ is not so expensive in comparison.
@@kissu_io its a phone you can do virtually anything with it. Then the switches your defending sound cool :/
I've done this as well except instead of swapping switches out of my Anne Pro 2 I instead swapped the stabilizers with genuine cherry stabs along with lubing and clipping them, as well as lubing all the other switches (gateron reds). Very satisfied with the outcome as the keyboard now sounds and feels super premium.
My take on why I decided to use the Anne Pro 2 as base instead of building a 60% from scratch was largely due to the feature packed utility that comes with the Anne Pro 2 PCB (Bluetooth 4.0, Macros, "Tap" function, 2 layer function keys) along with the excellent software support for the keyboard. No DIY 60% PCBs ticked all the boxes for me.
You could probably cut down on cost by using a jwk/durock linear and lubing amd filming it. They come in at anywhere from $.50 to $.70 depending on where you buy them. They are still very smooth.
I always read your channel like OpiumTech, addictive content.
I like crack cocaine
Graduated from "Gaming Keyboard" to Custom Keebs, no regrets.
Now I look at "Gaming Keyboards" with a bit of disdain.
so gross ew
ever since watching Taeha Types compare a custom mechanical keyboard to a stock razer huntsman, "gaming keyboards" seem like cheap walmart bargin bin crap in comparison. cannot go back lmao
@@syloui yep custom keyboard can be price from varies range, so if u willing to spend big money on ur keyboard you can get a really nice keyboard, and if you dont get the money to spend on it , you may just buy a gaming keyboard because the intro level of a custom keyboard cost way more than a gaming keyboard. i mean you will need to spend at least 300 for your custom keyboard from base, plate, pcb, switches and keycap.
@@syloui LMAO it was the same moment for me
@@ando5723 yea, if u consider gk61 is custom, its fully loaded and u just plug and go, and im not gonna talk about the quality of that
i have a "dierya" 60% with outemu browns, i lubed them myself with white lithium and a tiny paintbrush that was able to get in between the switch and housing, just a tiny bit of lithium while pressing the switch up and down works it right in, no disassembly required and made a massive difference after combining with some thick pbt caps. the dierya is abit of an underdog, but at 45 bucks with bluetooth and a removable micro usb for wired use it really has pleased me. It has dedicated arrow keys too, a must for me (play alot of heavily modded bethesda games)
You should line the inside of the keyboard with neoprene foam or sorbothane to add an overall better sound.
There's a bunch of hidden costs with your build: switch opener, a soldering iron and desoldering sucker (the cheap ones that come in an amazon kit has terrible suction). It feels like kind of a waste if this is all you're using it for. If you just want something really smooth, just get a keyboard with gateron optical blacks on aliexpress. It's contactless so it's even smoother than tealios for a fraction of the price. The board has pretty iffy software but not much worse than anne's. The only drawback is that it's optical so if you decide to go tactile or clicky down the road you don't have a ton of options.
i buy my tools as investment.
building keyboards is very therapeutic for me, so i offer build service for others who dont have the means or time to build their own.
i get to relax after work and school, and it pays for the tool itself. win-win.
Reading my thoughts? This is exactly what i was looking for.
Marcelo Tezza same!!
I would argue that swapping the switches in the anne pro 2, of course makes it a better keyboard -but far from a premium one. To me, the casing comes no where near something like the KBD ones, although it is a pretty good keyboard. Never the less a cool video that showcases something that many tech youtubers wont do! :D I would love to see you assemble a full DIY kit also. Very interesting if you also like to get a little into the software configuration.
Just a couple of notes for people looking who just fell in love with the sound of that keyboard, and want to make their own:
- While the keyboard he used as the "base" for the custom board will do the trick just fine and is fairly cost effective, you can get a much better feeling and sounding board for not too much more. If you buy your own case, pcb and mounting plate, they will likely be much higher quality than the Anna Pro 2. I've linked some great options below
- While he showed the difference between lubed and unlubed switches, he didn't say anything about lubing the stabilisers. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. If you leave your stabilisers stock, chances are you'll have a great sounding board until you hit that spacebar, and it starts rattling like crazy
While I do highly encourage everyone here to build their own keyboard (it's worth it - trust me) please take your time and do your research. There are many hidden details that are easy to miss but can have a huge effect on your build. You have to make sure that the pcb you have supports the layout of the mounting plate you got. If you don't want to solder switches, you have to make sure you get a hotswap pcb etc etc etc. It can seem scary, but the experience and end product is just soo worth it.
Case - kbdfans.com/collections/60-layout-case/products/kbdfans-tofu-60-aluminum-case
PCB - kbdfans.com/collections/60/products/gk64-rgb-60-64keys-hot-swap-pcb
Mounting Plate - kbdfans.com/collections/plate/products/cnc-60-aluminum-plate
Tbh I watched this video, and the quality lighting and premium video quality kept me here the whole time. Good job.
I like how this channel always make you think: "OK, I can do this". It always look that it will take time, but is not that difficult :)
I can not understand why anyone would want a 60% keyboard when you can have a 75% with just one column and one row more. It is just as compact imo and has a lot more versatility.
To put that in perspective I built myself a KBD75 with Zilents 78g and it is an absolute joy. I have to say good kecaps are indeed stupid expensive tho so going with a board like the anne pro and keeping the caps is probably a really smart move.
there aren't any good stock 75% boards with cheap prices, and custom 75% boards are usually much more expensive than 60%
some people can't stand the 1.75u right shift key, because it's too short for them and they usually hit the up arrow instead of the right shift key
Out of all the tech RUclipsrs, I think your entire setup is probably closest to my "dream" setup. Nicely done!
If you want to go to a 60% keeb but doesn't want to solder, go for a gk61/gk64. They're hotswappable BUT get the one with the gaterons. The other version of the gk61/gk64 has optical switches. They're meh and hard to find since they're kinda new. Gateron sell a few but I'd love to see a Kailh box since they're my preferred switches.
i got my anne pro with kalih box whites and have to say they are great. They're in between red and blue mx switches in terms of actuation and they have a unique audible click that sounds loads better than the mx blues because of its click bar mechanism rather than the plastic enclosure that makes the sound for cherry mx blues.
You need to work on your soldering technique. The soldered joint should appear shiny and have a concave fillet. You need to flow more solder into the joint and hold the iron longer to prevent what's clearly a case of cold joint.
Maybe because he used a fluxless solder?
I'm using the older Corsair K70 RGB with Cherry MX Red Switches Mechanical keyboard, I replaced all the key-caps with key-caps from my older "Razer Blackwidow Ultimate" keyboard which has large font letters & now looks similar to the "Corsair Strafe RGB keyboard". I really like the Corsair k70 RGB I have been using the keyboard since 2014, the whole body of the Corsair k70 RGB is made of a 1 piece black brushed aluminum so that is why they cost $150-$180USD each.
Aluminium isn't that expensive tho...
Nice. I went and did the same thing, except I added Mill Max Sockets to make it hot-swappable and went with 65g Zilent V2s. I just need to find a nice set of keycaps I like. But making it hot-swappable might cost you around $40, but it adds a really nice feature, especially if you want to try new switches, lube, or "tune" your switches a bit more.
edit: also not necessary, but highly recommended: lube your stabilizers while you have it open. Taeha Types has a guide on this as well.
Would you mind sharing the exact reference of the sockets you used, please?
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/mill-max/7305-0-15-15-47-27-10-0/?qs=QVz7UnnaAAGZJgZDI7Hd%2FA%3D%3D&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD
I lubed my halo clears without taking them apart using Krytox 205. Just held the stem down with a plastic needle and a thin paintbrush. Worked very well, any cons to this? That looks like it takes FOREVER>
What case did you use? You mentioned an aluminum case, but Anne pro 2 comes stock with a plastic case, so I’m assuming you got an aftermarket case as well?
Another convert to enthusiast level mechs. Given your passion for high end SFF I predict you will have a much more expensive full custom mech in no time at all.
Man, your color grade is always so good. Do you use Premiere or Resolve? Any kind of LUT or anything? I am a video editor myself and I am so jealous of your color grading skills.
If you use the glorious gmmk it already has all the switches and keycaps taken out and is likely easier to put together. You can choose no switches if you would like to add these switches to not increase the price.
There is an option to get no switches and you could buy the telios separately. I tried to say that in the comment, sorry if it was unclear.
Thank you for the inspiration for my first custom mechanical keyboard
I'd also recommend picking up a Keychron K2 V2 hotswappable and add nice switches. $99 and switches. No need to solder.
Nice job. Love the content on your channel. Building your own mechanical keyboard is the most rewarding way to go for an enthusiast, however I respectfully disagree with the notion that a premium mechanical keyboard cannot be had at a good value. I can think of a handful off the top of my head that would easily cost the same or less. Ducky One 2 TKL, Ducky One 2 SF, Leopold C750, Durgod Hades 68 ($99 on Amazon), Durgod K310, Durgod K320 ($99 on Amazon)... there are lots more in the $100 range with PBT keycaps, steel plate boards, macros, RGB, on-board memory, and beautiful aesthetics compared to some of the overpriced flimsy stuff Corsair and Razer charge $200 for.
Lubing switches is optional not really necessary but will improve the typing feel however it is absolutely necessary to lube your stabilizers because it helps eliminate the rattle from it and it's even better if you use genuine cherry or gmk screw ins stabilizers as those are some of the best stabilizers to use. Rattly stabilizers can make any keyboard sound and feel like shit
if you manage to find them in stock, zeal stabs are THE BEST out there
imo, Zeal stabs are good, but I don't think they are worth the price
Here I am watching, knowing that I will never do this. Awesome content either way!
Just bought an anne pro 2 for my first mechanical keyboard with the gateron browns. Thanks for this advice, might do this down the line :).
I could be wrong but isn’t the Anne pro 2 case plastic? And doesn’t it also retail for $80 or were you using AUD for your mentioned price?
Awesome mod and great video, dude! I'd love to have an Anne Pro 2 but stuck with Anne Pro 1 for now. Maybe I'll try this technique with some Zealio 67g someday!
You should also look into Massdrop's "Alt High Profile Keyboard." Very similar form factor to an Anne Pro just unfortunately not wireless. However, it's totally hot-swappable, so you can insert ANY keyswitch you like without having to worry about soldering work! Currently running Kailh Silver speed switches in mine and I love it!
Keep up the great work. Love your channel.
The anne pro 2 is actually my first keyboard that I modded. It's honestly one of the best keyboards that I've built, kinda wished I had more custom alu cases for it though.
Hold up, your case is alu stock?
That’s awesome, exactly what I needed today. I have the AP2, and now the One 2 Mini in white. I’d love to try better switches.
Also, for those who don’t want to bother soldering, try the GMMK.
you are a very patient man! thanks for your work
Here's why I agree with you about "gaming" keyboards being kind of bad in terms of value for the money: keyboards aren't that good for gaming in the first place all things considered because they don't make use of the most agile finger we have: the thumb. For years now I have been using the Logitech G13 as a keyboard replacement for games while using a conventional keyboard for everything else.
This is a great device considering how old it is and today its only real competition in my opinion is the Razer Tartarus V2. That kind of device - that some might call a gameboard or gamepad (like numpad but for gaming) - does come with a few caveats, mainly that you need to take some time to configure it to suit your needs for each game. In the case of the G13 there is also the issue of it having an analogue thumbstick (contrary to the the Tartarus V2 which uses a digital 8-way dpad) whose analogue functionality doesn't work in any games period (though it is as much the fault of game developers who don't let you play using any device that you want as much as it is Logitech's for not making a proper driver for this thing, after all Valve did figure out how to give users of the Steam controller a way to configure their device that works).
As for my "typing" keyboard, while I absolutely love how the mechanical keyboards I've tried feel under my fingers, the only reason I've stuck to a low profile membrane keyboard so far is the annoying noise. Even the switches that are marketed as "silent" are too loud for me. Following in your footsteps definitely sounds like a good option for me except that it doesn't actually seem that cost effective if I want a full keyboard (with all the function keys and the numpad).
Any advice on what full-sized keyboard I should pick up for a silent experience and a premium feel (whether or not I need to mod it) ?
If you guys really want a good keyboard to start modding and you don't want to go the whole "build your own from scratch" deal, buy the HK61 or iGK61 (it's branded a few different ways). It has a hotswappable board so no soldering required, a pretty solid case, and it's only $50. Hot swappable boards are $40+, so this way you get an entire functional keyboard whether you need the parts or not. It makes for a great budget keyboard as is, and if you don't have much money you can make upgrades over time, while still being able to use the keyboard. The software is mediocre, and is in chinese, but the main functionality is pretty intuitive, which you can customize quite a bit. Also, the switches alone are amazing, since they're optical gaterons of your choice, which in my opinion feel closer to budget lubed switches if I had to say. I can't recommend this enough, if you don't need wireless like the anne pro, please go this route since it's much cheaper.
I hate desoldering so much. I always break something lol. But back on topic, nice video! I'm thinking about getting some Tealios for my keyboard too. I wasn't planning on lubing them but now you've got me thinking about it.
Hate soldering? -> GMMK Keyboard
GK61 is a good choice, too. But, GK61 has 2 versions: one that supports traditional switches with contact-based connection, and one that supports laser-based connection. Most mechanical switches you can find are the contact-based one. And, Mantistek, the company that creates GK61, is charged with keylogging and recording sound without permission (they have a mic for a lighting feature, but it does record your voice as well), but I think there are solutions to this.
great video! by the way, lubing the legs on tactile switches is 100% fine; I do it on all my boards. people really love to overstate the loss in tactility you get from lubing the legs but it's not that bad at all. in the end it's all personal preference :)
@Actualglacier no, I think the tactility will nearly disappear on switches with weak tactility like MX Sand, but on switches like Zealios and Holy Pandas, they are so tactile that even if you lube the legs, the tactility is still significant
Buy-it-for-life endgame keyboard combo right here, even in 2021. Looking to get my hands on one soon and do the same thing, with the same switches.
If you're into the idea of a mech keyboard with similar form factor or something to play around with I'd recommend Qisan Magicforce 68 (for under $40 USD with outemu switches - not terrible in themselves but less $$ to lose if you plan to swap them out) - quite pretty too. Check signature plastics for gorgeous but pricey keycaps, or Tai Hao for some reasonable and cheap 'better than stock'
If you like SA keycaps from Signature Plastic but you want to pay less, Maxkey is an option.
@@hikarii8758 wow they look great! Thanks for the heads up
i have the k70 mk2 rapidfire. Barring the price being a little high, it's a really nice keyboard. My only complaint is that corsair won't let you use EQ lighting without their headset, though there are some ways around this. Further, I bought my board at 160$ USD, so comparing this to a custom keyboard is kind of disproportionate IMO
when starting out i also bought into the gaming keyboard hype - wasted lots of money on Corsair and Razer - If only i had the knowledge I have now - After trying out a Rama M65-A - there was no going back - Tealios for linear and Zealios 65g for tactile - there are no better switches - PERIOD - Krytox 205 grade 0 or Tribosys 3204 - lube - be careful with tactile switches - do not lube the legs that touch the contact leaf or you will lose some of the tactile feel - only lube the sides of the stems and the top and bottom of the springs - Linear switches can be lubed normally - most important is using high quality Stabilizers and also lubricating them - I'm currently using Zeal stabs lubed with Krytox 205 Grade 0- Anyway - i've basically given away all my gaming boards to friends - no regrets spending $500 + for a custom board - game-changer if you type or game for extended periods of time you do not know what you're missing till you try a custom board.
Good video, I'm interested in building a 60% myself. One question, What kind of soldering iron do you have, your joints looked really good, right now I'm building custom cables, and the split wire with my current iron is giving me issues.
my dream keeb is a unicorn: hotswappable 60% or 65%, qmk programmable, alu or a really sturdy plastic build, relatively silent tactile switches (zealios v2 or zilents or .tacit for now I think), some cool keycaps as well. Since these are not really on the market, I fear I will have to build one myself or modify an existing like here. problem with building one yourself: Alone for the keyboard (just pcb, case) you can spend the amount of money you spend on a decent normal keyboard. Add good switches and keyboards for each the price of a good keyboard themselves and you end up 300 / 400 bucks easy. Now I do not want a keyboard that is breaking the bank, just have a mobile cool keyboard you can have for your laptop or tablet or also desktop on occasion (i.e. gaming or if you do not need the TKL). the problem with desoldering and soldering: I dont have an iron, so that would come on top, speaking prices and I have no experience with it, so I fear I will end up fucking stuff up. Not necessarilz in the process, but just working not good enough, so I end up with slightly shifted keys like shown in the video or a bad typing feel or what have youu. plus you gotta have all the work, which I do not mind, but say you want to change your switches just to try some new ones. a hot swap pcb would be so much better than de/soldering and soldering everytime.
If you haven't already check out KBDfans.com. They have hotswappable 60% and 65% PCBs and alu cases. T1s are great tactile switches that are similar to Zealios but much cheaper, they are sold on primekb.com. Also if you don't mind buying used you can check out r/mechmarket on reddit and see what's for sale or make a post for what you're looking for. Coming in Month or so Novelkeys.com will be selling a hotswap board with a plastic case for $95 USD, only caveat is that it is purple case, check this reddit post for more details rb.gy/18afpv. If you have question I'm happy to answer.
What would the price be if you just brought each piece individually rather than modding a prebuilt like the Anne Pro 2?? Would it be cheaper, work out the same or potentially be more expensive?
Thanks for sharing I‘ll definitely think about it!
Thanks for finding my new keyboard bro. I’m building a ryzen 3000 itx system in the next few days when everything is released. Haven’t decided between Navi or super tho.
They're not micro vibrations, they're tactile events.those are intended to be there, but they are very small on the gateron browns.
Is there a full size keyboard you would recommend doing a mod like this for? Interested in building my own as well! Great content!
You can do this on any mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX type switches
@@Deac0n_Blues Thanks
~ Now to find one to try out xD
I'd do it from scratch. Some switches and PCBs are really affordable then hunt Aliexpress for a case. Whilst I've never taken on a budget build, I think for $150 you can make a really, really good keyboard. You can probably save money in various places too and build a decent board for closer to $100.
I'm a big fan of the CODE/WASD keyboards and use Cherry MX Clears for work and MX Greens for home. Both keyboards equipped with Matt3o /dev/tty MT3 custom keycaps
Btw 65 g.-67g. Are awesome :D like 67g really reminds standart keyboard weight and 65g is like lighter version. But men it is better than those 45 g because they are too light (57g probably bottom out). 62g zeal switches are also too light. Like zeal switches are the switches you expect when hear a word "mechanical keyboard" . And after using quite a lot of switches I can say that cherry mx red are more interesting to type than gaterons. But gaterons would be nice on controllers. They are like whst you actually want on xbox controller XD btw not recommending buying anne pro 2 with gaterons. Not all switches work perfectly (lots of double clicking) and they are very different as the same switch. I only recommend cherry mx with anne pro 2. You can buy gaterons if you buy hotswap board to pick the best working switches: they are good (more smoother than cherries) but you have to "cherry pick" them (no pun intended :D but cherry switches are really cherry picked for relatively cheap price - they stand up for their name )
Hope you read this, not sure how else to contact you (don't use twitter).
Have you got the Cryorig C7G or do you plan on getting it? It's currently available from PCCG, surprisingly. I know you've tested the C7 and C7 CU but i'm interested in seeing how the 'graphene coated' version handles. Very hard to find solid benchmarks for this specific cooler.
I expect the difference to be extremely minor.
If you're watching this and interested in more information on the custom keyboard community start with TaehaTypes on YT and branch out from there if your interest peaks.
Not trying to knock the video, I really enjoyed it, but thought your analysis on pre built keyboards was a bit harsh. Corsair make good keyboards and the listing showed it was 130 on sale not 170, it's a full size keyboard, has full RGB with customisation and you know if any goes wrong you will have warranty where as custom builds you can lose a lot of that and it is obviously 60% so less parts. I'd simply say it's more preference as this is a highly individual thing. Keep up the content though :)
I can't focus on the keyboard cause of the blackout Cryorig look so dope 😍😍😍
this was literally what i was planning to do with my AP2. thank you for making this video !!
Great video man, very informative! I'd like to see a review by you of the Sharkoon c10 or QbOne cases, since they're fairly cheap and support 240mm AIO. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
vfx artist react to cgi. i see you are a man of taste
Super nice video as usual..
This time I stick with my Logitech G Pro Keyboard
Did u buy POKER keycaps? are those the same for anne pro 2?
Still rocking my Majestouch pro Ninja tkl from Filco. Built like a tank and extremely comfortable to type on. It's more on the boring looking side though since it's all black and no RGB.
Great video, personally, I have a Motospeed CK104 (OUTEMU Blue switch) and a DREVO BladeMaster PRO (Cherry Brown switch). Both are perfect when I want to play with sound during the day (blue) and when I play at night (brown) however one day I would like to do something similar and create my own keyboard like this (only something bigger, since 60% it's too compact for me).
Great to see some more "mainstream" techtubers taking up custom mechanical keyboards :)
You always post quality content!
That's the goal my man
What screwdriver did you use to remove the plate? sorry for my bad english
They NEED to make this hotswap. Imo, best 60% on the market if they did.
You could do this for far cheaper with the GMMK Compact. Just buy the base board, switches separately (plate mount only, or clip the nubs off other switches), and whatever caps you want. It's much easier to build too, no soldering. You could come out with practically an identical end product without all the extra work or money.
no soldering = no fun
Meh, I've spent years soldering stuff as a job. If I don't have to do it, I don't want to.
soldering is part of a hobby, and, sometimes boards with hotswappability are much more expensive and are not worth the difference in the price
was thinking of doing this myself after looking around i found this keyboard i think i could use as a base instead of the Anne Pro 2 id use "DIERYA 60% Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, RGB Backlit" its plastic but around 2/3 of the price would this be possible to use and then also switch out the switches with the Tealios V2's as this keyboard is hot swappable aswell so wouldn't need any soldering, any opinions thanks??
I got the Anne Pro 2 with the Keilh Box Browns and they feel pretty good, but Box Jades are what i want to try next.
Would you recommend lubing the stock Gateron Brown switches? And if so, is it possible to do this without removing the switches from the PCB? Thanks :D
@alex just clicks Hey Alex, thank you so much for your detailed and insightful comment. This is great advice, especially since I do not have the tools needed to desoilder my board!
Is it just me or does the white blackplate suck when you're not using the rgb. I really want to paint mine black but without taking the switches out. Is that possible?
nice keyboard bro ! definitely considering learning to build a customized keyboard after watching this
Hello, thanks for the content, really the build quality of the keyboard could you also refresh the link on the NCASE mods? It seems to be dead unfortunately. and it would have been better with a sound test.
May I know what keyboard you are holding at 0:07?
I don't know
Drevo Blademaster
@@optimumtech Thank you sir :)
THIS IS THE CONTENT I LIKE
After resoldering, multiple keys are registering double when I press them. I'm gonna have a second round of soldering to try and fix them, but are there things I should look out for to prevent this from happening?
Waiting for my Anne Pro 2 to ship out.
Hey does someone know what happened to anne pro 2 ? I desoldered it everything was working, soldered a few switches - everythin was working, solder all switches used for minute and it doesn't work. What happened ? Pcb is hot below z
Really nice mod to a really nice keyboard! 👍 But why not just buy the Glorious 60% board and swap the switches?
Because that's no fun
@Deacon Blues you said it, that would be no fun at all
Because Anne Pro 2 offers bluetooth, imo.
novelkeys creams are pretty good. i like blue switches as i love the click sound.
Yo this guy watches Corridor Digital? Nice man, I love that channel so much
I think a better comparison would have been to compare the Gateron browns with the Zealios since they are both tactile switches. Here, you're comparing a tactile (brown) switch with a linear (blue) switch, which seems like a bit of an apples and oranges comparison.
Serious question: Wouldn't the Gaterons sound the same as the Tealios if it was lubed as well?
those deep dish homing keys look sick as hell
Great review as always. Any chance to review the Wooting One keyboard?
that's some gorgeous keycaps
Keep doing these videos with custom boards
ummmm that might be a little heavy on the pocketbook
Can you update this so we can now how long does lubricating the switches last and if it is worth doing it?
Lubing is totally worth it if done properly. Depending of the lube, you may relube every year. It depends of a lot of things and you will pretty much notice if you need to lube again. 🙏🏻
"$1 per switch"
Laughs in Hirose Oranges
i got the gmmk full for my starter mech keyboard cause i REALLY didnt want to deal with soldering but i REALLY wanted a smooth linear switch to go with it. got gateron reds with it and after lubing they're satisfying enough, but they're not Q U I T E smooth enough and the actuation force is a little light. those tealios looks really tempting but to fill my whole keyboard id have to pay 120 freedom dollars.
why bother de-solder/solder when you can get a glorious 60%, keychron 60%, etc which are hot swappable. prices are not that much different.