Brilliant job. Watched every video three times to make sure I’ve not missed anything . Very informative. Just had a quick question . The supporting wall in the centre of the house. Does it go all the way to the ground or is the wall below it (on the ground floor) a bit to the side. And does it matter when putting the extra weight on it. Thanks
Hi Audi - Danny is bang on. It does matter. Yes my wall is solid brick from foundations right up to loft so I'm lucky although this is common on Victorian houses. You will need a structural engineer to work all that out for you. Even something like a widened door between 2 rooms downstairs can have an impact if the lintel used is too weak. The cost of a structural engineer is worth it. You don't want to be a few thousand pound in and find out you have to underpin your house and change your lintels downstairs. In that scenario as Danny said you maybe able to use steels but again your foundations have to be strong enough to take the load. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
I left 25mm gap as I used a fully breathable membrane and I put fascia vents all the way along the fascia boards to provide ventilation. If you have old roof felt you need to leave 50mm. My 'vapour barrier' was created but overboarding with insulation and taping. Best check with your local building control officer as they will give you the right advise to meet your local building regs. Best of luck.
18mm but you can use 22mm. Depends on how you are going about your fire protection. You may be required to use 22mm in some circumstance otherwise it's up to you. 18mm gives you another 5mm of headroom if that is an issue for you. Thanks for watching.
Enjoying your videos buddy, but I would never be as brave as you in tackling something like this, although I have done a tonne of DIY. Without wishing to sound like I am picking holes in your work, I personally would have only gone 75% of the way with the warm space and in this way it makes closing it all off much easier. The small amount of space lost is probably not that useful anyway as it dwindles away to nothing. Just a thought.
Hey bud, it’s really good that your showing people how to convert Lofts. I am a qualified converter and have had a client asked some questions based on your videos. So I thought I would take a look; You mentioned in the video that you are using rockwool?! You aren’t it’s a product by knauf! Rockwool should not be confused with any other product as it is by far superior. In my opinion it’s the only product that should be used! Also you need to chicken wire between you floor joists and then lay your knauf over that. This is something required to comply with building regulations!!! Your job will fail otherwise. I think it’s great showing people what to do, but are you aware of all the requirements yourself!!??
Hi Andrew, thanks for the question. I never intended to show viewers how to do a loft conversion, but just an insight into my loft conversion. As a professional you will know that no two roof spaces are the same and each roof requires a bespoke design and set of calculations. I thought the series might be an interesting watch for viewers and show the amount of work and consideration involved in a full conversion. You are right about the Rockwool, I incorrectly used a brand name for another insulation, just habit sorry, should have been more clear maybe. I also call a vacuum a Hoover! As for fire regs, when I renovated my house four years ago I overboarded the upstairs ceilings with plasterboard over a solid layer of lathe and plaster. So the insulation is more for sound deadening rather than fire protection. Hope that helps. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
You have to have it calculated by a structural engineer. Often the steel beam is to allow a flat roof also which I didn't do. In some respects using a steel is easier as you level it at both ends then all the joists just fit in. On an old house like mine, often the wall plates aren't level so it takes a lot of time packing and getting right. But there are different ways to do it. Thanks for watching.
I have to overboard with more sheets below the rafters which I will tape to create the vapour barrier. All will be revealed in a later video. Thanks for watching.
No, permissive development, but it depends on a few things like elevations, cubic capacity etc. Although building regs are required. Thanks for watching.
I think your man made slates might be asbestos fibre board slates not the new modern cement fibre board slates... Please be careful when removing if you break them your breathing in asbestos dust I say this because they look really weathered and quite old I’m a roofer by trade and I won’t touch old man made slates unless they look fresh and not too weathered so I know there not asbestos as that stuff was banned like 20 years ago now I believe maybe longer Stay safe 👍🏼
POUSE around the HOUSE cheers and no no thank you for creating educational content I always enjoy watching and learning other trades. I assume you knew already but I just wanted to double check as better safe then sorry
You should have used 12mm ply that 6mm looks soppy, mind you plasterboard could have worked well. And that insolation board comes stuck to some plasterboard.
I didn't want to add the extra weight to the rafters. Also insulation attached to plaster board is more expensive than buying them individually. The ply in the cupboard is only to protect the insulation, doesn't need to be over the top. Thanks for the comment.
I do that in a later video. To meet building regulations you must insulate between rafters and under rafters to eliminate thermal bridging. Set thicknesses of insulation will be determined specific to your project. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE hi Pouse What thickness is the insulation your using in the rafters..? I have 4" rafters and I've been told you have to leave a air gap between the insulation and the tile...?
i am bloody loving this
Thanks Nick, glad you're enjoying it. Thanks for watching.
Great explanation between cold and warm space. Did wonder first why insulation boarding not inbetweeners rafters... but all looks really good.
Always enjoy pouse around the house videos. Looking forward to seeing finished result .
Thanks for the kind feedback Gary and thanks for watching.
6mm plywood was used to board the rafters. Just what I needed to know, thanks
Hard work pays off mate! Looking cracking 👍👍
It also takes it's toll on your back and knees! Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE I bet it does mate, I’m mid renovation on a 20s bungalow and both my back and knees know all about it 😂👍
Coming along nicely, tidy stuff
It is indeed, and I'm much further on than in the video. Just haven't had time to edit and upload yet. Thanks for watching!
looking forward to see the end product enjoy the video
Thanks again for watching Ratch
Came for the DIY, stayed for the tunes 🎶
Glad you enjoyed the music.
I am very pleased with the way, that you are working?
Thanks for the comment.
Good job sir..
Thumbs up!
Thanks for the info!
No problem, thanks for watching.
Great videos i have a couple of questions what thickness was the insulation on the rafters and in the floor. How did you support the roof ridge board?
Brilliant job. Watched every video three times to make sure I’ve not missed anything . Very informative. Just had a quick question . The supporting wall in the centre of the house. Does it go all the way to the ground or is the wall below it (on the ground floor) a bit to the side. And does it matter when putting the extra weight on it. Thanks
Hi Audi - Danny is bang on. It does matter. Yes my wall is solid brick from foundations right up to loft so I'm lucky although this is common on Victorian houses. You will need a structural engineer to work all that out for you. Even something like a widened door between 2 rooms downstairs can have an impact if the lintel used is too weak. The cost of a structural engineer is worth it. You don't want to be a few thousand pound in and find out you have to underpin your house and change your lintels downstairs. In that scenario as Danny said you maybe able to use steels but again your foundations have to be strong enough to take the load. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Awesome job! :0)
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Did you need to leave 50mm ventilatiin gap in the rafters to prevent condensation, also would a breathable membrane or vapour barrier be useful?
I left 25mm gap as I used a fully breathable membrane and I put fascia vents all the way along the fascia boards to provide ventilation. If you have old roof felt you need to leave 50mm. My 'vapour barrier' was created but overboarding with insulation and taping. Best check with your local building control officer as they will give you the right advise to meet your local building regs. Best of luck.
Thank you for your reply, much appreciated.
Hello again Pouse! What thickness of chipboard are you using??
18mm but you can use 22mm. Depends on how you are going about your fire protection. You may be required to use 22mm in some circumstance otherwise it's up to you. 18mm gives you another 5mm of headroom if that is an issue for you. Thanks for watching.
Are you able to use cavity battens in the roof rafters as well?
You'd need to peak to a building control officer for advice or speak to the manufacturer of the product.
Enjoying your videos buddy, but I would never be as brave as you in tackling something like this, although I have done a tonne of DIY.
Without wishing to sound like I am picking holes in your work, I personally would have only gone 75% of the way with the warm space and in this way it makes closing it all off much easier. The small amount of space lost is probably not that useful anyway as it dwindles away to nothing. Just a thought.
Hey bud, it’s really good that your showing people how to convert Lofts. I am a qualified converter and have had a client asked some questions based on your videos. So I thought I would take a look;
You mentioned in the video that you are using rockwool?! You aren’t it’s a product by knauf! Rockwool should not be confused with any other product as it is by far superior. In my opinion it’s the only product that should be used! Also you need to chicken wire between you floor joists and then lay your knauf over that. This is something required to comply with building regulations!!! Your job will fail otherwise. I think it’s great showing people what to do, but are you aware of all the requirements yourself!!??
Hi Andrew, thanks for the question. I never intended to show viewers how to do a loft conversion, but just an insight into my loft conversion. As a professional you will know that no two roof spaces are the same and each roof requires a bespoke design and set of calculations. I thought the series might be an interesting watch for viewers and show the amount of work and consideration involved in a full conversion. You are right about the Rockwool, I incorrectly used a brand name for another insulation, just habit sorry, should have been more clear maybe. I also call a vacuum a Hoover! As for fire regs, when I renovated my house four years ago I overboarded the upstairs ceilings with plasterboard over a solid layer of lathe and plaster. So the insulation is more for sound deadening rather than fire protection. Hope that helps. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
When is part 6 coming?
Hopefully this weekend. I try to do one vid every 2 weeks when I can. Thanks for watching.
Top banana 🍌
Top banana 🍌
Top banana 🍌
thats wicked that u never needed a steel or anything. never though of just sitting joist in wall plate
You have to have it calculated by a structural engineer. Often the steel beam is to allow a flat roof also which I didn't do. In some respects using a steel is easier as you level it at both ends then all the joists just fit in. On an old house like mine, often the wall plates aren't level so it takes a lot of time packing and getting right. But there are different ways to do it. Thanks for watching.
Shouldn't the joints in the insulation be taped?
I have to overboard with more sheets below the rafters which I will tape to create the vapour barrier. All will be revealed in a later video. Thanks for watching.
Did you need planning permission for this?
No, permissive development, but it depends on a few things like elevations, cubic capacity etc. Although building regs are required. Thanks for watching.
I think your man made slates might be asbestos fibre board slates not the new modern cement fibre board slates...
Please be careful when removing if you break them your breathing in asbestos dust
I say this because they look really weathered and quite old
I’m a roofer by trade and I won’t touch old man made slates unless they look fresh and not too weathered so I know there not asbestos as that stuff was banned like 20 years ago now I believe maybe longer
Stay safe 👍🏼
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE cheers and no no thank you for creating educational content I always enjoy watching and learning other trades.
I assume you knew already but I just wanted to double check as better safe then sorry
You should have used 12mm ply that 6mm looks soppy, mind you plasterboard could have worked well. And that insolation board comes stuck to some plasterboard.
I didn't want to add the extra weight to the rafters. Also insulation attached to plaster board is more expensive than buying them individually. The ply in the cupboard is only to protect the insulation, doesn't need to be over the top. Thanks for the comment.
Why did you not just cut the insulation into the raffters
I do that in a later video. To meet building regulations you must insulate between rafters and under rafters to eliminate thermal bridging. Set thicknesses of insulation will be determined specific to your project. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE hi Pouse What thickness is the insulation your using in the rafters..? I have 4" rafters and I've been told you have to leave a air gap between the insulation and the tile...?