You know what?!?! You R Brilliant!!! I've learnt so much from your videos. I have so many projects to do. As already finished tiling my bathroom floor and walls thanks to do. Well done, I'm proud of you xx
don't despair Pouse, this youtube series will still be busy in 20 years time . really great tips right through it and good quality throughout trust yiu enjoyed doing it .
That made me laugh aswel BellaLuna 😂 I have been following your videos since about part 10 and just thought you had completed it and not uploaded the end, lol. Im looking forward to watching 👌
Love the videos, I have an old roof with the tiles on show from the inside and lath & plaster (what’s left of it). What would you recommend the best way of insulating/boarding the roof would be? Not turning it into an official room but I want to make use of the space for storage ect and insulate it to keep the heat it. Many thanks.
@@mikelittler140 hi Mike. If you want the whole space warm then similar to what I've done is probably best with PIR insulation board between rafters. If it's not an official space no need to overboard like me, that's a building regs requirement although you can if you want. Although you don't have felt it's worth leaving an air gap above the insulation for some ventilation in case you put a roofing membrane on in the future. You could do some vertical timbers either side as it's easier to insulate then just leave behind it a cold space? Lots of options really. Hope tgat helps and thanks for watching.
Great videos, thank you. I really like the explanations of why you design, do or use the materials you use, to help others with their design. I missed why you were using the chicken wire again. Is it regulation and do you know what the head room regulation is for a loft conversion, my space is 190cm to rafters. How did you get an air seal on where your light holes were to prevent the flow of air and loss of heat. (building science videos are great on this.) Thanks again for all this work making the videos to help others.
Chicken wire is to hold fire proof floor insulation up in the event of a fire that pulls ceiling down. It's to allow time for safe exit from the building. I forget to add this to the video unfortunately. Final head height minimum is usually 2m on landing, that's after insulation and plasterboard etc. Some building control departments are more lenient than others so check with your local building control officers. If you don't have headroom, you can always do the conversion and make it structurally and fire safe but not go through building regs but then it isn't officially a habital room as your insulation won't be up to scratch but it can still make a nice office space if done properly. Or just a posh storage space, depends want you want as the end result I guess. Thanks for watching! As for downlights, they have a rubber seal around the rim which create a good enough seal to prevent air entering the room.
OMG FINALLY YES, I almost though you stopped with recording this series, May I ask you a Question though? Im not sure if you have ever mentioned it in your videos (I have currently watched 26 parts out of the 30 in order and I haven't watched this one yet) What room will this be when its done ? (Is it gonna be a Bedroom or an Office space?) Also is this UK where you are living? Please tell me and keep this channel going *YOU ARE AMAZING AND I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS !* :D
Thanks for the kind words. I live in Wales, UK. Room will be an office/ spare bedroom when finished.....or just somewhere to hide from my family! Thanks for watching.
Hi excellent series really enjoy it all that chicken wire may block your wifi signal , only saying in case you want to put a network cable in before "sealing" up thanks .
What is the purpose of the chicken wire? Is it mainly to keep the insulation in place or does it have other uses like soundproofing for the floor boards?
hi is there an episode to show how you put the ceilingboard. what screws do you use to go through the board, insulation into the rafter? thanks for the vids and keep it up
If you go to my loft conversion playlist they are all there link - ruclips.net/p/PL2-FHRIF3qm-skuIrOxfivCGhoE0v8g2n. I haven't uploaded all of them yet so a few more to go. I used 12mm plasterboard and screws are drywall screws. You need them deep enough to pentrate your timber rafters by about 25mm plus depth of plasterboard and insulation. So for 30mm insulation, you need about a 70mm screw. Hope that helps.
Hi pal great vids looking forward to seeing the finished article how much did the loft conversion cost in total if you don't mind me asking. for budgeting reasons going to do mine pretty similar to yours but may need steel beams
I think it'll be about 10k for the basic loft I think but in addition to this I've reslated, done new soffits, fascias etc. Don't underestimate the finishing costs like plaster, screws, cable etc. It soon adds up. Best of luck with it!
i have 3x2 ceiling joists in my loft spaced about 14in apart and i want to board it out for storage but want to strengthen the floor , i was thinking about screwing 3x2 on top of the existing 3x2 to add strength making them 6x2 does this sound ok , or is doing a criss cross method better +
The best way would be to use larger timbers say 6x2 and just run them along side the existing joists from wall plate to wall plate. Then you will just have a stronger floor full stop. Although criss cross will tighten the floor up a bit. Hope that helps. If you take a look at the channel 'build it with rob' I think he's done quite a few storage spaces just strengthening floors. Might be worth a look.
Building regs, fire safety. Holds the fireproof insulation up in the event of a fire giving room a minimum of 30 minutes fire protection giving you time to leave the building. This is in conjunction with fire doors and interlinked mains powered smoke alarms. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I have some spare rigid insulation. I was going to Chuck it beneath the floor boards. Will rigid insulation also need chicken wire mesh?
@@haroon420 you only need mesh to comply with building regulations. If you are not making a building control application to the council and therefore not making it legally/officially a 'habital room' then you don't need to. If you speak to your local authority building control department they will tell you all you need to do to comply. Hope that helps.
Fire regs, in the event of a fire the mesh holds the insulation up even if the ceiling falls and the insulation is part of the fire rating for the ceiling as part of the building regs for the loft conversion. So it gives you enough time to escape from a fire if the fire is in the room below. All part of the 30 minute fire rating.
It helps hold the insulation in place in the event of the ceiling coming down during a fire. It is fire resistant and along with fire doors throughout the escape route and interlinked smoke alarms helps provide 30 minute fire protection required by building regulations.
Hi mate. What is your plan for a vapour control barrier? Will you just use the foil of the insulation and tape it or add a vapour barrier membrane? Cheers
Shouldn't need it. He has a breathable membrane over the entire roof and as you stated the foil is the vapour barrier. He has two layers of PIR so as long as he is careful with cutting holes for electrics and there is no thermal bridging, he should be good.
Hi Jonny, I think David answered your question. Holes for downlights etc is unavoidable but when in place the lights themselves create a bit of a seal. Also there is an air gap across the top of the insulation with fascia vents which allow any trapped moisture to be removed. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Please get the money to me asap for answering the questions. Seriously, great channel mate,. I'm slowly going over your other videos. Interesting stuff. Keep up the good work.
I assume you're all finished now? How does the chicken wire work? Any issues with laying the flooring onto it (joist >mesh> flooring)? Squeaks or movement/unevenness at all? Cheers.
Yes finished. Chicken wire is fine. When floor boards are screwed tight it just presses into the timber. Chicken wire was actually suggested by my building control officer as I wasn't sure what to use. You can also buy a synthetic mesh that does the same thing which is probably easier to install. Hope that helps.
@kingasz100 I've never used it so not sure. Best thing is to ask your building control officer as they will tell you what is required to meet the latest building regs. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
No, only one but unfortunately due to the layout downstairs loft door must be upstairs which is why I have to build the wall around the stairs. In an ideal world the stairs would have been withing the room and the fire door at the bottom which would have opened the room out more but sometimes that's just the way it is! I could have course gone for a much bigger flat roof dormer and hip to gable conversion but there's a reason I couldn't do that which I'll explain in a later video. Thanks for watching.
lovely job as per usual but you did not explain the reason why you put the mesh down first.i know why, as iv,e done it myself. but some people may not .have fun.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
You know what?!?! You R Brilliant!!!
I've learnt so much from your videos.
I have so many projects to do. As already finished tiling my bathroom floor and walls thanks to do.
Well done, I'm proud of you xx
Wow, thank you! Glad I could help you out.
don't despair Pouse, this youtube series will still be busy in 20 years time . really great tips right through it and good quality throughout trust yiu enjoyed doing it .
That made me laugh aswel BellaLuna 😂 I have been following your videos since about part 10 and just thought you had completed it and not uploaded the end, lol. Im looking forward to watching 👌
Ps my own projects are the same... i complete everyone else's jobs before my own 🤦♂️😂
Love the videos, I have an old roof with the tiles on show from the inside and lath & plaster (what’s left of it). What would you recommend the best way of insulating/boarding the roof would be? Not turning it into an official room but I want to make use of the space for storage ect and insulate it to keep the heat it. Many thanks.
It's all filmed, just need the time to edit it. Thanks for watching!
@@mikelittler140 hi Mike. If you want the whole space warm then similar to what I've done is probably best with PIR insulation board between rafters. If it's not an official space no need to overboard like me, that's a building regs requirement although you can if you want. Although you don't have felt it's worth leaving an air gap above the insulation for some ventilation in case you put a roofing membrane on in the future. You could do some vertical timbers either side as it's easier to insulate then just leave behind it a cold space? Lots of options really. Hope tgat helps and thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thank you for the reply, I’ll take your comments on board and look at my options, keep up the good work 👍
Another great vid!
Thanks again!
Another great video. Keep them coming
Thanks, will do!
Can’t beat a Henry 💪😁
I love it!
Belting job mate 👌
Thanks for the kind words!
Great videos, thank you. I really like the explanations of why you design, do or use the materials you use, to help others with their design. I missed why you were using the chicken wire again. Is it regulation and do you know what the head room regulation is for a loft conversion, my space is 190cm to rafters. How did you get an air seal on where your light holes were to prevent the flow of air and loss of heat. (building science videos are great on this.) Thanks again for all this work making the videos to help others.
Chicken wire is to hold fire proof floor insulation up in the event of a fire that pulls ceiling down. It's to allow time for safe exit from the building. I forget to add this to the video unfortunately. Final head height minimum is usually 2m on landing, that's after insulation and plasterboard etc. Some building control departments are more lenient than others so check with your local building control officers. If you don't have headroom, you can always do the conversion and make it structurally and fire safe but not go through building regs but then it isn't officially a habital room as your insulation won't be up to scratch but it can still make a nice office space if done properly. Or just a posh storage space, depends want you want as the end result I guess. Thanks for watching! As for downlights, they have a rubber seal around the rim which create a good enough seal to prevent air entering the room.
OMG FINALLY YES, I almost though you stopped with recording this series,
May I ask you a Question though? Im not sure if you have ever mentioned it in your videos (I have currently watched 26 parts out of the 30 in order and I haven't watched this one yet) What room will this be when its done ? (Is it gonna be a Bedroom or an Office space?)
Also is this UK where you are living?
Please tell me and keep this channel going *YOU ARE AMAZING AND I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS !* :D
Thanks for the kind words. I live in Wales, UK. Room will be an office/ spare bedroom when finished.....or just somewhere to hide from my family! Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks for the info!(im writing from my new account)
@@pajis_xd no Problem!
Hi excellent series really enjoy it
all that chicken wire may block your wifi signal , only saying in case you want to put a network cable in before "sealing" up thanks .
Thanks for the tip but it's all finished now and wi fi is working fine, but not something I considered!
What is the purpose of the chicken wire? Is it mainly to keep the insulation in place or does it have other uses like soundproofing for the floor boards?
I’m itching just watching this
Not the nicest job in the word! Thanks for watching.
hi is there an episode to show how you put the ceilingboard. what screws do you use to go through the board, insulation into the rafter? thanks for the vids and keep it up
If you go to my loft conversion playlist they are all there link - ruclips.net/p/PL2-FHRIF3qm-skuIrOxfivCGhoE0v8g2n. I haven't uploaded all of them yet so a few more to go. I used 12mm plasterboard and screws are drywall screws. You need them deep enough to pentrate your timber rafters by about 25mm plus depth of plasterboard and insulation. So for 30mm insulation, you need about a 70mm screw. Hope that helps.
I remember you saying in part 1 "it will take a couple of months" 😂
To be fair, it has been finished for years, just not the editing, but maybe months was ambitious 😂
Fair play mate grafting
I've got no choice but to keep going now!! Thanks for watching.
Just a thought will the chicken wire suppress Wi-Fi signals into the loft area?
Hi pal great vids looking forward to seeing the finished article how much did the loft conversion cost in total if you don't mind me asking. for budgeting reasons going to do mine pretty similar to yours but may need steel beams
I think it'll be about 10k for the basic loft I think but in addition to this I've reslated, done new soffits, fascias etc. Don't underestimate the finishing costs like plaster, screws, cable etc. It soon adds up. Best of luck with it!
Nice shiney daps you've got on there mate....have you upgraded??
My usual daps were wet so just a temporary upgrade!
i have 3x2 ceiling joists in my loft spaced about 14in apart and i want to board it out for storage but want to strengthen the floor , i was thinking about screwing 3x2 on top of the existing 3x2 to add strength making them 6x2 does this sound ok , or is doing a criss cross method better +
The best way would be to use larger timbers say 6x2 and just run them along side the existing joists from wall plate to wall plate. Then you will just have a stronger floor full stop. Although criss cross will tighten the floor up a bit. Hope that helps. If you take a look at the channel 'build it with rob' I think he's done quite a few storage spaces just strengthening floors. Might be worth a look.
Good job mate. I am curious why you use wiremesh on floor?
Building regs, fire safety. Holds the fireproof insulation up in the event of a fire giving room a minimum of 30 minutes fire protection giving you time to leave the building. This is in conjunction with fire doors and interlinked mains powered smoke alarms. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I have some spare rigid insulation. I was going to Chuck it beneath the floor boards. Will rigid insulation also need chicken wire mesh?
@@haroon420 you only need mesh to comply with building regulations. If you are not making a building control application to the council and therefore not making it legally/officially a 'habital room' then you don't need to. If you speak to your local authority building control department they will tell you all you need to do to comply. Hope that helps.
Time for me to catch up. Nice work mate. Why the wire mesh bud? Can't you just bung the insulation in there?
Fire regs, in the event of a fire the mesh holds the insulation up even if the ceiling falls and the insulation is part of the fire rating for the ceiling as part of the building regs for the loft conversion. So it gives you enough time to escape from a fire if the fire is in the room below. All part of the 30 minute fire rating.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE fab, Nice one 💪🏽😎👍🏽
Won’t the wire mesh knacker your WiFi signal though?
what does the wire mesh do?
It helps hold the insulation in place in the event of the ceiling coming down during a fire. It is fire resistant and along with fire doors throughout the escape route and interlinked smoke alarms helps provide 30 minute fire protection required by building regulations.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks
Hi mate. What is your plan for a vapour control barrier? Will you just use the foil of the insulation and tape it or add a vapour barrier membrane? Cheers
Shouldn't need it. He has a breathable membrane over the entire roof and as you stated the foil is the vapour barrier. He has two layers of PIR so as long as he is careful with cutting holes for electrics and there is no thermal bridging, he should be good.
Hi Jonny, I think David answered your question. Holes for downlights etc is unavoidable but when in place the lights themselves create a bit of a seal. Also there is an air gap across the top of the insulation with fascia vents which allow any trapped moisture to be removed. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
David, you've clearly been watching in detail! Thanks for the continued support.....and replying to comments quicker than I do!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Please get the money to me asap for answering the questions. Seriously, great channel mate,. I'm slowly going over your other videos. Interesting stuff. Keep up the good work.
how long is taking you to do this project.
This was filmed almost 2 years ago. I'm a bit behind on the editing but better late than never!
What is the thickness of plywood or chipboard. Are these water resistant?
It's waterproof chipboard. Think mine was 18mm but you can go thicker depending on joist spacing and fire regs.
Im enjoying the series! Might be time to invest in some audio upgrades for the videos though
I agree. New camera would be a good start. Maybe I'll treat myself if I get to 100k subs. May be a while!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I was only thinking a rode micro 😂
I assume you're all finished now? How does the chicken wire work? Any issues with laying the flooring onto it (joist >mesh> flooring)? Squeaks or movement/unevenness at all? Cheers.
Yes finished. Chicken wire is fine. When floor boards are screwed tight it just presses into the timber. Chicken wire was actually suggested by my building control officer as I wasn't sure what to use. You can also buy a synthetic mesh that does the same thing which is probably easier to install. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE it does. Thanks.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE how would the synthetic mesh work in case of a fire? I though it's only galvanised chicken wire what suitable....
@kingasz100 I've never used it so not sure. Best thing is to ask your building control officer as they will tell you what is required to meet the latest building regs. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
How come you didn't use Rockwool for the floor? Would have got better soundproofing and fireproofing.
Cost, but I went for thicker insulation than the recommended Rockwool equivalent. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Fair enough, keep up the great work. Can't wait to see it finished. Cheers
👍
Thanks for watching.
Are you creating two rooms up there?
No, only one but unfortunately due to the layout downstairs loft door must be upstairs which is why I have to build the wall around the stairs. In an ideal world the stairs would have been withing the room and the fire door at the bottom which would have opened the room out more but sometimes that's just the way it is! I could have course gone for a much bigger flat roof dormer and hip to gable conversion but there's a reason I couldn't do that which I'll explain in a later video. Thanks for watching.
Hey Pouse. It's taken you that long to sort these vids out you have had time to develop a bald patch!!!!
Making fun of my thin hair won't make yours any thicker!
I like but I want more 🙂
Plenty more to come. The whole lot has been filmed, just the editing that's taking a while! Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE My pleasure, like I've said in one of the previous videos I could listen to you for hours. Regards
@@adamjamro23 My Mrs is quite the opposite, when I talk about building work she says it's boring and walks off!
Hi pousey boy jow much hss this cost you. Cracking job your doing i wish i could do one but my mum wont let me. God bless you son
Not sure of total cost yet but I think it'll be around 10k for the loft bit. Obviously that's with my labour for free. Thank for watching.
lovely job as per usual but you did not explain the reason why you put the mesh down first.i know why, as iv,e done it myself. but some people may not .have fun.
I'm one of those people, do tell.
Good point! I think I just forgot while I was filming. It was a while ago!
Why can't insulation go direct to top ceiling?
Building regulations require installing chicken wire if your ceiling is made of lath and plaster
Get the series on netflix!
I'm not sure everyone would share your enthusiasm but it certainly has the netflix 14 episodes per season vibe. I might finish it one day!
That mesh doesn't comply with building regs. It should be 25mm.
Why insult the floor? Both the attic and room below are heated. The conditioned envelope is now at the roof.
Fire protection as the ceiling below is lath and plaster and not 30mins fire protection.